Spoiler Saver (on some devices) & riddle. Thanks for clicking to watch. I hope you enjoy it, here is a riddle for you... You measure my life in hours and I serve you by expiring. I’m quick when I’m thin and slow when I’m fat. The wind is my enemy.....What am I?
why not fix a 1930s radio removing the wax capacitors i heard theze things are dangerous in heat volts what not but you can learn over at mr carlsons lab yt
He just told you why he can't do that, if people don't like it then they may not watch, if they don't watch then he won't make money. "Since this is my full time job" means he will either have to make videos more people like or lost his job and have to work at McDonald's.
Heya, I'm not sure if others have said anything,but I do quite like it when you show the actual work/soldering being done. I've noticed the latest vids have alot of that cut out, would it be possible to keep more of that in?
A note about that first chip in which the pins voltages seemed to be swapped: All chip with a 74HC part number are what is called glue logic chips. They allow the main chips to work seamlessly with each other. That particular chip (74HCU04A) is an inverter. The pins you were looking at will always be opposite logic levels to each other as one is the input and the other is the (inverted) output.
I like the video before watching because I know I will love the whole hour! I am moving to my 1st bought flat! and I do the same as you as a hobby. I hope to make videos on it. You are a huge motivation! Love the content!
@@HeadRealThin Thank so much for the motivating comment! I did already fix some PSone, PS2 3 xBoxes and then I wished I would have made it into videos. So I will surely post and try to comeback here and let you know. Hopefully I will release my 1st one in 1 month time :)
That warm fuzzy feeling when a Patreon early access Vince video appears =D That leg on the CIC chip, if that's not cut and lifted - it will reset the NES constantly (if there's no cart in the slot which is the correct region). Cutting and lifting that leg bypasses the region check, and it shouldnt reset all the time from that point then. The PPU is not married to the RAM. The SRAM types can just be different, but you can swap the RAM without issue. You can source spare RAM chips (equivalents), but the PPU - the only place you will get one is another PAL NES. The NTSC NES has a different PPU and CPU. The alternative is to buy a cheap Famicom and swap the CPU and PPU, crystal and a few other components to get it running as an NSTC NES - but that's a lot of messing around, and if you buy a faulty Famicom you don't know if the PPU and CPU are going to be OK (and both are required if converting to NTSC).
Haha, nice one Chris. So that is a shame about the PPU, at least it is NOT married to the SRAM. It is strange how so many things went faulty. Maybe the fault cascaded from one chip to the next. Certainly not my best buy on eBay but on a positive I learnt a lot about this system. Hopefully the next one I come across will go smoother. Cheers for the info as always 👍👍
Not just a nice MMV Patreon early access vid, but a great wealth of information from Chris as well. I'd gladly enjoy watching Vince swap Famicom components onto a NES board. I do agree the risk definitely needs to be considered when purchasing other failed consoles. Neither here nor there really, but what always amazes me is opening up a clone console and seeing a single COB (Chip on Board/Blob chip) replacing pretty much every IC in an old NES. [Insert any random "you're getting old" comment] 😂. Take care gents.
👴 Happy belated 80th Birthday Shawn 🤣🤣 You are correct though, it is amazing how the cheapest handheld clones can have this technology on a tiny Blob chip 👍👍👍
Hey Vince, my son introduced me to your channel and now we watch your "try to fix it" videos every night before bedtime. Thanks to you, tomorrow when our package arrives I will be attempting my first ever "fix it" fory sons Nintendo switch speakers. Once I spend some time practicing with sautering I will also attempt to fix the 3.5 audio jack on the switch. Love your videos mate, keep them coming!
When you take out any chip to make a swap its always a good idea to put in sockets since it minimize the risk of tearing off the solderpads and traces (the chips feet/pins can also break off from stress) . It also saves you time from not having to re solder things on and off obviously. Its a habit anyone should get into when dealing with chips that aren't being manufactured anymore (getting rarer) & should be treated with care. Ultimately think of it as an nice gesture to the next person who will be repairing / tinkering with the console next time. While Vince did it towards the end I still think he could've saved himself some heartache by doing it right from very start instead.
When I was a tech that's exactly what I would do to my golden boards on every IC I would suspect had gone bad on my unit under test. Quick test with the suspect IC and replace or goes back in.
Great to see a NES been worked on,it was my first proper console aged 10.nice to see what’s going on inside and the subsequent repairs you’ve needed to do to sort this Vince!
Not sure why, but there is just a relaxing aspect to your videos. Something about them just really gets me to bed. Thanks for all the great content Vince! Keep it up!
I don't even do circuit repair or have ever attempted it. But your videos are always incredibly entertaining. You have an excellent on-screen persona. Thanks for entertaining me for the past few years!
I'm re-watching your videos to pass some inactive time... Especially now I have a vague grasp of how this stuff works.. (VERY VAGUE) - I loved the journey of this one so much.
So there are a few options for the PPU. You can either get a replacement clone PPU, which would be a 6528P (P being the PAL version), or you could get both an NTSC CPU/PPU which are easier to find, I had to buy some to repair a couple Famicoms and replace the oscillator for whatever NTSC is, I forget. I had a look where I bought my OEM IC's, but there weren't any 2C07's sadly. Of course you could get both the NTSC replacements too, which would be cheaper, which are 6527 and 6528, made by UMC. You can also get compatible SRAM from a variety of locations, you can buy some from aliexpress, you can get it from games sometimes or I have some, since that was also damaged on the Famicom I repaired, if you'd like. Other than that, nicely done on the CIC chip diagnosis, I have never seen one of those go bad, though I did know you can use any from a game, so that's nice you had a spare handy.
You've never seen a CIC chip go bad, but I also don't think you've ever seen someone attack their NES with an ice pick like this poor thing was. Those scratches and cracks were brutal... what the heck happened? O_o
@@MizuhoChan I remember seeing in a forum someone removing the CIC chip completely and replacing it with some bridges... Since the system doesn't need it to work (famicoms don't have a CIC chip) it works a treat!!
I was of the understanding that the reproduction CPU and PPU chips have compatibility issues among other oddball flaws with other games. Sure would be nice to have perfect reproductions of the original ICs for this and other consoles....
@@NordicDan I've never heard of this or looked into it much but I'm not surprised. It's hard to perfectly replicate a chip. I wonder if flash carts avoid that problem though?
Where the board was cracked, i noticed there's a bad solder where looks like its the capacitor. If you go to 51:00s youll see it on the bottom right. Not saying that'll be the problem but might be. Love the vidz 😊
Watched it in full length without skipping, and yes it was a little confusing from time to time. But still love how you found the problem and fixed it. :)
Beautiful work, the video is amazing. Congratulations. Few people use their time and knowledge for retro consoles. Keep doing this work on old games as well as there are many fans of retrogames around the world still. It's a lot of work but it's good to see the result. God be with you.
It's a brave person who says 'it says it is faulty' when it comes to a NES :P I bought 4 NES's on eBay Australia, all saying faulty, all but 1 turned out to be the 72-pin connector :P Compared to my original NES where I had to run a bodge wire to fix a broken trace.
What an enjoyable video, I learned a lot about the NES and loved the systematic troubleshooting. Liked the idea of cutting a track rather than having to unsolder the chip. I'm sure to use that trick sometime. Another great video.
@@grahamkelly8662 I'll always click the "send buyer an offer " button, it's always just 5%, but it's always headed that way, well.... unless it's stupidly cheap to start with of course :p
I too have been using this method. Especially with Buy it Now items. If I see something Im willing to pay the Buy it Now price I will first watch it in hopes the seller will send me an offer. Hey, it works! Its usually only a discount in the 5-10% range but I figure thats like getting free or reduced shipping! Of course if its something I REALLY want I just buy it.
My Mate Vince, things about other countries fascinate me so it was in that spirit that I looked up Timmy's Auto ayr. I thought ayr was the designation given to mechanics in the UK but it turns out it is Ayr, a town/city in Australia and it is also TimmSy's. I missed the S originally even though you didn't. All this to say, sadly, Robert passed away about three weeks ago. RIP Robert.
Also, the moment you found it was a screw, and you couldn't work out where it was from, I instantly noticed that the cartridge tray is missing 3 screws :) 2 gold ones, identical to the case screws, and 1 long silver scerw.
I don't understand why he tried to power it on with something rattling inside. He could have damaged more. Always open it u first and remove the rattle before it shorts something and blow up another chip.
Just in case you don't know already but I have that same desolder station and the fan is really loud. Very annoying. It is a 5cm 12v fan being fed with 18v so it's working flat out. I replaced mine with an 18v one off eBay and it's much quieter. Just plugs straight in to a black box on the back panel of the station. Might help you keep the noise down if you're trying to film while using it.
I have been watching and enjoying you videos for year now Vince. On this one I was a bit surprised, I thought you had more knowledge of how to troubleshoot a system like this or basically any old computer of console. I don't mean this in a negative way, so hope you don't take me wrong. I have a few tips for next time, this is how I do this, and is a general way I learned from doing repairs. 1. check if power is going to the board, you can do this easiest by just taking a logic chip (74...) and measure between bottom left and top right, this should be 5v. Then check the reset, most cpu's have active low, and if stuck of toggling then find the source, I have never seen a chip pulling this low, so it's in the part that generates this signal (a schematic would help here). Then check clock signal, no clock no activity... If all good, check for activity on data and address lines, if nothing then check cpu. If cpu is running then there should at least be something on the screen, and this will lead you to further troubleshooting, like working ram, video ram, or anything like that. Hope it helps for next repair, you have come a long way from your first repair video's and have learned so much. I enjoyed watching you videos and see your knowledge grow.
This has been tons of fun to watch. I always wonder how tronics fix would look at it as well. Just for shits and giggles. What his approach would be equally. This isn't to discredit you either. I think you are doing amazing!!! I'm not sure I would take it this far. I would feel lost. What keeps you going? How do you decide your next step. Idk. It's just awesome watching ya. Keep it up. I want an NES so bad. I'm jealous. Have a great day. 😊
Apologies for commenting only a bit into the video but once the screws are out the cartridge slot connector just slides off the main board. Just have to make sure you've got it aligned well when you reinstall it or you'll have trouble getting games to work. The original NES cart connector is notoriously unreliable--it's designed to be close to zero insertion force, which has the advantage that it does not wear down the cartridge contacts as much as typical edge connectors, but the disadvantage that it also doesn't clean the contacts either. The original NES cleaning kit does a good job of cleaning the cartridge connector, but people have also found success just chucking the whole connector in boiling water (find someone's instructions I've never done it myself). Also you appear to be missing some screws. There are quite a few screws holding the main board in normally. Also the confusing voltage at the beginning is because it takes an AC input. The ground of the unit is connected to the negative out of the bridge rectifier, not either of the legs of the input jack.
at 8:04 below of where the board is scratched and cracked there are two cold solder joints, pausing the video at the time I marked, you can see them clear as day to the right of the tweezers and it's bugging me that you missed that.
quick hint , buy a supply of cheap single side turn pin sockets and socket parts like these, the heat and removal and resolderong can cause damage to IC's, traces. or VIA's, then it makes chip swaps like these low impact
Why do you think we wouldn't watch a longer video. I rarely have time to watch any video all the way through in one sitting, but I always do watch the whole thing.
Great content as always Vince! Have you considered making a longer video first and then cutting it down into a second video, maybe for a second channel or just upload both and label one as the directors cut or something? maybe you can have the best of both worlds on that front without too much extra work
Just here to say thanks for the share. I had a similar but different power issue but this video helped me find the issue. Thanks! Pulled a security chip from a game to replace the console and it works. Numbers on chip Top- 6113B1 Low- 8913 7 BA
I have worked on nes that no led power worked and found tarnish in the power switch pins and cleaned them and it worked right up all was fine after that and had a nice working nes!
if its rattling, ALWAYS open first it might be a loose screw, that can mess things up even more. also, the rf shield has nothing to do with the rf output, its to shield the chips from rf interference.
Whether or not the unit needs an RF shield has nothing to do with whether you're using the RF output or not. The shield is there to block radio frequency interference in and out of the main part of the unit, and also the RF modulator is going to be active even if you don't use its output. That being said, a lot of Japanese-made products from this era just slapped complete overkill shielding on the export versions, I suppose because they did not think it was worth it to keep failing their certification just to save money on parts. I've never heard of anyone having trouble with a mega drive or NES after removing the shield, in the unit itself or in nearby electronics. I would keep the shield on the actual RF modulator, though, as that is more likely to become an unintentional radiator.
time code 8:06 to the right of the crack in the board, and down, are a couple disturbed looking solder joints on two through hole components. Seems you just swapped the board in the end for your repair... Maybe this was the problem after all? Thanks for your vids, I'm learning stuff here!
if you need ram, you can also look at og red/white famicoms. Many are mega yellowed and/or cracked, are RF only and have attached controllers. With a bit of search you can get some in JUNK status aka untested for decently cheap. They are also useful for PPU/CPU change, but only for NTSC consoles, PAL consoles use a totally different CPU/PPU pair.
People always act completely amazed like you're a wizard that can perform miracles when you take a water or fire damaged console, rip some components off, and repair another console. 90% destroyed is still 10% useable! If we recycled everything as vigorously as I recycle electronic components, we'd have already mined all the resources we'd need for a few years. XD
Hi Vince, Super great content as always 👍 I am enquiring about your instruments you use to fix things. Could you give a list of things you use i.e. hand tools, materials and especially your camera. I have one which I have used for many years and is starting to fail. I am very intrigued in which one you use. Keep up the great work 😁
I think the CIC lockout chip pulls reset low by design if no valid game is inserted. So that behavior is expected. There's an algorithm that runs between the CIC in the console and CIC in the game pak. It's very sensitive so that's the reason many cut Pin 4 on the CIC to disable it. The CIC in the console and game pak are identical btw. If Pin 4 is connected, it's in "lock" role. If not, it's in "key" role. So if you ever actually do have an NES with a faulty CIC you should be able to replace it with a CIC from any random game. Edit: commented to soon 😂. You were on that track.
You can find some decent schematics for the NES online. They may not exactly match the unit you have but it may be close enough to give you a clue. I usually go to the console5 wiki for game console schematics first because they collect as many as they can. The actual NES schematics however are third-party and are drawn in a somewhat confusing and unorthodox way. I often find myself referring instead to the Famicom schematic which is direct from Nintendo and is a lot more normal. Note however that aside from using the same CPU and PPU, many other things are different about the Famicom (it has no lockout chip, the cartridge and expansion connectors are completely different, it has hard-wired controllers with different signals, the io buffers are arranged differently) so that's of somewhat limited use. One more thing to be careful about is that there are a few *different* RF/power units even with the same NES mainboard, so you have to make sure you're referring to the right one.
Great video Vince! Would you mind leaving a link to the de-soldering gun? Been meaning to get one forever. Braid and solder sucker are the bane of my life!
I don't know what all that original scratching was about, rarely see constructive examples of that heh. Before you started I thought check the Lock-Out chip and disable it, it's a wonderful self indulgent piracy solution that often locks out legitimate cartridges lol. Shame about the PPU, always a drag when a bespoke IC dies but good fusion solution. ;)
sometimes having working unit to compare can just slow you down. Same page where you find CPU pinout have nice NES circuit diagram and if you just look at it tracing back from that blown LED....editing would be much easier for you :)
I still remember back in the day I had both a Sega Master System and a(n) NES. Both came with 9V bricks with the same barrel jack. One day I accidentally plugged in the SMS using the NES adapter. Result, non-working SMS. That's when I learned the NES brick output was 9VAC whereas the SMS brick was 9VDC. Had I been handy with electronics I might have opened it up and had a look for myself, but I ended up sending it off somewhere for repair. I later blew the NES RF port by using the TG16 RF modulator that was attached to the TV, being lazy and all. I had to buy an external modulator from Radio Shack and plug it in to the composite inputs.
@My Mate VINCE I have a ton of broken NES's. I'm more than happy to send over WRAM and a PPU. I'll get them sent out to your PO Box this week if you're still looking :)
Hey Dan, a nice little surprise arrived for me the other day!! Thanks mate. I will include the little revisit about it in a Dash Cam video that I am working on. Thanks for doing that👍👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince No problem! The story behind those chips I sent over is sorta funny. I massively damaged a bunch of plated through-holes under the RF modulator of the NES I lifted those chips from. It was the first repair I tried when I wasn't so handy at desoldering so that board became scrap and a general playground for practice. Anyways, if those chips can bring another system back from the dead then that's one less system for land fill which is always awesome!
Just FYI They sell a new ppu replacement that works mostly okay. It has some compatibility issues with certain games. They used them in clone consoles. I came across those while troubleshooting a similar issue where I had an nes that worked perfectly except it would send a troubling amount of voltage to the ppu.
The reset pins of the two big chips are both inputs. What made you think the big chips are faulty if they get the wrong voltage on their input? The part that produces the voltage for these inputs was much more likely to have a problem.
Spoiler Saver (on some devices) & riddle.
Thanks for clicking to watch. I hope you enjoy it, here is a riddle for you...
You measure my life in hours and I serve you by expiring. I’m quick when I’m thin and slow when I’m fat. The wind is my enemy.....What am I?
A candle!
a candle
A Candle?
A slow candle 🕯️
why not fix a 1930s radio removing the wax capacitors i heard theze things are dangerous in heat volts what not but you can learn over at mr carlsons lab yt
Never worry about putting out something we might not like, the journey of troubleshooting is great for us trying to learn.
He just told you why he can't do that, if people don't like it then they may not watch, if they don't watch then he won't make money. "Since this is my full time job" means he will either have to make videos more people like or lost his job and have to work at McDonald's.
@mediatour8898 He was reassuring the content creator not to worry, because he has loyal fans. Learn what you read before looking like a fool.
Heya, I'm not sure if others have said anything,but I do quite like it when you show the actual work/soldering being done. I've noticed the latest vids have alot of that cut out, would it be possible to keep more of that in?
A note about that first chip in which the pins voltages seemed to be swapped: All chip with a 74HC part number are what is called glue logic chips. They allow the main chips to work seamlessly with each other. That particular chip (74HCU04A) is an inverter. The pins you were looking at will always be opposite logic levels to each other as one is the input and the other is the (inverted) output.
I like the video before watching because I know I will love the whole hour! I am moving to my 1st bought flat! and I do the same as you as a hobby. I hope to make videos on it. You are a huge motivation! Love the content!
Minty please post a video, we want to see!
@@HeadRealThin Thank so much for the motivating comment! I did already fix some PSone, PS2 3 xBoxes and then I wished I would have made it into videos. So I will surely post and try to comeback here and let you know. Hopefully I will release my 1st one in 1 month time :)
@@mintyway3680 haha I want to make more videos I just don’t like editing! But go for it, it’s good fun and who knows where it will end up!! 👍🏼
That warm fuzzy feeling when a Patreon early access Vince video appears =D That leg on the CIC chip, if that's not cut and lifted - it will reset the NES constantly (if there's no cart in the slot which is the correct region). Cutting and lifting that leg bypasses the region check, and it shouldnt reset all the time from that point then. The PPU is not married to the RAM. The SRAM types can just be different, but you can swap the RAM without issue. You can source spare RAM chips (equivalents), but the PPU - the only place you will get one is another PAL NES. The NTSC NES has a different PPU and CPU. The alternative is to buy a cheap Famicom and swap the CPU and PPU, crystal and a few other components to get it running as an NSTC NES - but that's a lot of messing around, and if you buy a faulty Famicom you don't know if the PPU and CPU are going to be OK (and both are required if converting to NTSC).
Haha, nice one Chris. So that is a shame about the PPU, at least it is NOT married to the SRAM. It is strange how so many things went faulty. Maybe the fault cascaded from one chip to the next. Certainly not my best buy on eBay but on a positive I learnt a lot about this system. Hopefully the next one I come across will go smoother. Cheers for the info as always 👍👍
@@Mymatevince Yes, it had a surprising number of issues! Great that you got there in the end though and work through each problem! =D
Not just a nice MMV Patreon early access vid, but a great wealth of information from Chris as well. I'd gladly enjoy watching Vince swap Famicom components onto a NES board. I do agree the risk definitely needs to be considered when purchasing other failed consoles.
Neither here nor there really, but what always amazes me is opening up a clone console and seeing a single COB (Chip on Board/Blob chip) replacing pretty much every IC in an old NES. [Insert any random "you're getting old" comment] 😂.
Take care gents.
👴 Happy belated 80th Birthday Shawn 🤣🤣 You are correct though, it is amazing how the cheapest handheld clones can have this technology on a tiny Blob chip 👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince 👍🤣
you're doing god's work, nice to see these old machines get repaired, there's only so many left.
Hey Vince, my son introduced me to your channel and now we watch your "try to fix it" videos every night before bedtime. Thanks to you, tomorrow when our package arrives I will be attempting my first ever "fix it" fory sons Nintendo switch speakers. Once I spend some time practicing with sautering I will also attempt to fix the 3.5 audio jack on the switch. Love your videos mate, keep them coming!
When you take out any chip to make a swap its always a good idea to put in sockets since it minimize the risk of tearing off the solderpads and traces (the chips feet/pins can also break off from stress) . It also saves you time from not having to re solder things on and off obviously. Its a habit anyone should get into when dealing with chips that aren't being manufactured anymore (getting rarer) & should be treated with care. Ultimately think of it as an nice gesture to the next person who will be repairing / tinkering with the console next time. While Vince did it towards the end I still think he could've saved himself some heartache by doing it right from very start instead.
When I was a tech that's exactly what I would do to my golden boards on every IC I would suspect had gone bad on my unit under test. Quick test with the suspect IC and replace or goes back in.
Great to see a NES been worked on,it was my first proper console aged 10.nice to see what’s going on inside and the subsequent repairs you’ve needed to do to sort this Vince!
To quote Dave at EEVBlog, "Thou shalt check voltages!" Great troubleshooting work and wow it was a ton of work!
Seeing Vince get hype after figuring out what’s wrong makes me so happy 💙
Not sure why, but there is just a relaxing aspect to your videos. Something about them just really gets me to bed. Thanks for all the great content Vince! Keep it up!
I am thoroughly impressed how you turned 12 hrs into a one hour video.
I'm thinking about buying a broken NES to try and fix it, just for fun. Your video taught me a ton about the troubleshooting process!
I don't even do circuit repair or have ever attempted it. But your videos are always incredibly entertaining. You have an excellent on-screen persona. Thanks for entertaining me for the past few years!
The excitement in this lad when he fixes something is inspiring
Supporting on patreon, but watching on YT. I'm a rebel like that 😎 🤪
We all learn from watching your videos. Always facinating to see what u will work on next. Thank you.
I'm re-watching your videos to pass some inactive time... Especially now I have a vague grasp of how this stuff works.. (VERY VAGUE) - I loved the journey of this one so much.
Thanks Kip 👌
So there are a few options for the PPU. You can either get a replacement clone PPU, which would be a 6528P (P being the PAL version), or you could get both an NTSC CPU/PPU which are easier to find, I had to buy some to repair a couple Famicoms and replace the oscillator for whatever NTSC is, I forget. I had a look where I bought my OEM IC's, but there weren't any 2C07's sadly.
Of course you could get both the NTSC replacements too, which would be cheaper, which are 6527 and 6528, made by UMC. You can also get compatible SRAM from a variety of locations, you can buy some from aliexpress, you can get it from games sometimes or I have some, since that was also damaged on the Famicom I repaired, if you'd like.
Other than that, nicely done on the CIC chip diagnosis, I have never seen one of those go bad, though I did know you can use any from a game, so that's nice you had a spare handy.
You've never seen a CIC chip go bad, but I also don't think you've ever seen someone attack their NES with an ice pick like this poor thing was. Those scratches and cracks were brutal... what the heck happened? O_o
@@acumenium8157 That's true, my first instinct was what the hell lol.
@@MizuhoChan I remember seeing in a forum someone removing the CIC chip completely and replacing it with some bridges... Since the system doesn't need it to work (famicoms don't have a CIC chip) it works a treat!!
I was of the understanding that the reproduction CPU and PPU chips have compatibility issues among other oddball flaws with other games. Sure would be nice to have perfect reproductions of the original ICs for this and other consoles....
@@NordicDan I've never heard of this or looked into it much but I'm not surprised. It's hard to perfectly replicate a chip. I wonder if flash carts avoid that problem though?
This is one of those channels where you click like before clicking play, because you already know the content is going to be epic.
Where the board was cracked, i noticed there's a bad solder where looks like its the capacitor. If you go to 51:00s youll see it on the bottom right. Not saying that'll be the problem but might be. Love the vidz 😊
35:08 I hear GadgetUK in my head yelling "No, Vinny. Don't cut the trace, lift the leg!"
Watched it in full length without skipping, and yes it was a little confusing from time to time. But still love how you found the problem and fixed it. :)
If you plan to fix more of those old systems, best is to put those chips on a socket for easier parts testing
i love putting tese videos on while i play my vita such good content
Great job, excellent perseverance and troubleshooting 😀
Beautiful work, the video is amazing. Congratulations. Few people use their time and knowledge for retro consoles. Keep doing this work on old games as well as there are many fans of retrogames around the world still. It's a lot of work but it's good to see the result. God be with you.
Congratuations for how far you got! Also yay for taking the advice of myself and others regardiong replacing the DMM battery.
Fantastic. I was glued to my screen the whole time.
54:13 you got to love the enthusiasm keep up the good work
It's a brave person who says 'it says it is faulty' when it comes to a NES :P I bought 4 NES's on eBay Australia, all saying faulty, all but 1 turned out to be the 72-pin connector :P
Compared to my original NES where I had to run a bodge wire to fix a broken trace.
BRILLIANT!!! Fantastic, Sir!!! Nicely done, MyMateVince!!! Tons of my own Nintendo memories!!! Smurfs!!!
I'm loving your long videos vince, Great video and i use to play on that when i was younger, Keep up the brilliant work you do
What an enjoyable video, I learned a lot about the NES and loved the systematic troubleshooting. Liked the idea of cutting a track rather than having to unsolder the chip. I'm sure to use that trick sometime. Another great video.
Wow, that was a tricky one. Nice one Vince.
Hey Vince, I found that by watching listings theres usually a 90% chance the seller will send you an offer.
I’ve watched a fair few things lately and seller has never made me an offer. 1 or 2 have lowered price but never had personal offer.
@@grahamkelly8662 I'll always click the "send buyer an offer " button, it's always just 5%, but it's always headed that way, well.... unless it's stupidly cheap to start with of course :p
Certainly not 90% chance, but there is a chance.
@@HeadRealThin that’s just in my experience. I usually buy in bulk lots so your experience may be different.
I too have been using this method. Especially with Buy it Now items. If I see something Im willing to pay the Buy it Now price I will first watch it in hopes the seller will send me an offer. Hey, it works! Its usually only a discount in the 5-10% range but I figure thats like getting free or reduced shipping! Of course if its something I REALLY want I just buy it.
My Mate Vince, things about other countries fascinate me so it was in that spirit that I looked up Timmy's Auto ayr. I thought ayr was the designation given to mechanics in the UK but it turns out it is Ayr, a town/city in Australia and it is also TimmSy's. I missed the S originally even though you didn't. All this to say, sadly, Robert passed away about three weeks ago. RIP Robert.
Also, the moment you found it was a screw, and you couldn't work out where it was from, I instantly noticed that the cartridge tray is missing 3 screws :) 2 gold ones, identical to the case screws, and 1 long silver scerw.
I don't understand why he tried to power it on with something rattling inside. He could have damaged more. Always open it u first and remove the rattle before it shorts something and blow up another chip.
@@Madrrrrrrrrrrr I cringed when he did that. Could have gone up in smoke.
@@jcluttrell a lot of fix channels do it. I think when it goes up in smoke, it has entertainment value. But that's my underbelly talking hahaha
This one was definatly a learning one although it might have been a bit frustrating for you, you learned a lot. Good job mate!!
Very challenging indeed! Nice work with lots of patience.
Just in case you don't know already but I have that same desolder station and the fan is really loud. Very annoying. It is a 5cm 12v fan being fed with 18v so it's working flat out. I replaced mine with an 18v one off eBay and it's much quieter. Just plugs straight in to a black box on the back panel of the station. Might help you keep the noise down if you're trying to film while using it.
love all the fault finding explanations.
I have been watching and enjoying you videos for year now Vince. On this one I was a bit surprised, I thought you had more knowledge of how to troubleshoot a system like this or basically any old computer of console. I don't mean this in a negative way, so hope you don't take me wrong.
I have a few tips for next time, this is how I do this, and is a general way I learned from doing repairs. 1. check if power is going to the board, you can do this easiest by just taking a logic chip (74...) and measure between bottom left and top right, this should be 5v. Then check the reset, most cpu's have active low, and if stuck of toggling then find the source, I have never seen a chip pulling this low, so it's in the part that generates this signal (a schematic would help here). Then check clock signal, no clock no activity... If all good, check for activity on data and address lines, if nothing then check cpu. If cpu is running then there should at least be something on the screen, and this will lead you to further troubleshooting, like working ram, video ram, or anything like that. Hope it helps for next repair, you have come a long way from your first repair video's and have learned so much. I enjoyed watching you videos and see your knowledge grow.
Nice tip. Care to make a video on this?
@@kingforaday8725 Wish I could, but that’s a thing I’m not good at, so I’ll leave that to the pro’s like Vince…
Wow.. what a crazy journey but very interesting to watch.
1:50 - "Yay, red light not on, so definitely is a fault - excellent". Lol.
This has been tons of fun to watch. I always wonder how tronics fix would look at it as well. Just for shits and giggles. What his approach would be equally. This isn't to discredit you either. I think you are doing amazing!!! I'm not sure I would take it this far. I would feel lost. What keeps you going? How do you decide your next step. Idk. It's just awesome watching ya. Keep it up. I want an NES so bad. I'm jealous. Have a great day. 😊
hello vince i am your big fan and admire you alot you are doing good love your content
💯 this nintendo reminds me my childhood GOD bless
Apologies for commenting only a bit into the video but once the screws are out the cartridge slot connector just slides off the main board. Just have to make sure you've got it aligned well when you reinstall it or you'll have trouble getting games to work. The original NES cart connector is notoriously unreliable--it's designed to be close to zero insertion force, which has the advantage that it does not wear down the cartridge contacts as much as typical edge connectors, but the disadvantage that it also doesn't clean the contacts either. The original NES cleaning kit does a good job of cleaning the cartridge connector, but people have also found success just chucking the whole connector in boiling water (find someone's instructions I've never done it myself).
Also you appear to be missing some screws. There are quite a few screws holding the main board in normally.
Also the confusing voltage at the beginning is because it takes an AC input. The ground of the unit is connected to the negative out of the bridge rectifier, not either of the legs of the input jack.
at 8:04 below of where the board is scratched and cracked there are two cold solder joints, pausing the video at the time I marked, you can see them clear as day to the right of the tweezers and it's bugging me that you missed that.
yes i saw that right away too.. think its going to c9 cap..
awesome fault finding Vince great to see it working in the end cost of the older one but you can play with the other now and use for spares maybe :)
quick hint , buy a supply of cheap single side turn pin sockets and socket parts like these, the heat and removal and resolderong can cause damage to IC's, traces. or VIA's, then it makes chip swaps like these low impact
Probably?
Not watched it yet but happy to see you continue the good fight against landfill Vince and as always, keep up the good work stay safe fella!
Why do you think we wouldn't watch a longer video. I rarely have time to watch any video all the way through in one sitting, but I always do watch the whole thing.
Always nice to see a classic 80s nes living to fight another day.
Sometimes, instead of removing a chip, like here to check the Reset state, it's easier to just cut the copper trace, to make measures.
Great content as always Vince! Have you considered making a longer video first and then cutting it down into a second video, maybe for a second channel or just upload both and label one as the directors cut or something? maybe you can have the best of both worlds on that front without too much extra work
I just watched a hour long video on repairs to a nes and I liked it
Hi Vince,
Love your fault finding, learning a lot ! What is the make of your de soldering heat gun please , regards
In the beginning near the crack in the board when you zoomed in I can see broken solder joints on the pins for the chip on the other side.
you sound a lot like stampy!!!!! I love it!!!
Love the mug!! 😁💕 I enjoy your videos.
Just here to say thanks for the share. I had a similar but different power issue but this video helped me find the issue.
Thanks!
Pulled a security chip from a game to replace the console and it works.
Numbers on chip
Top- 6113B1
Low- 8913 7 BA
I have worked on nes that no led power worked and found tarnish in the power switch pins and cleaned them and it worked right up all was fine after that and had a nice working nes!
1st class video to watch thank you take care kind regards from me kenneth
if its rattling, ALWAYS open first it might be a loose screw, that can mess things up even more.
also, the rf shield has nothing to do with the rf output, its to shield the chips from rf interference.
The RF shield is there as an FCC requirement to block the interference that the device may generate, which would affect other devices.
@@SimonQuigley either way, it was total nonsense of him to say he didn't need the rf-shield because he wasn't going to use the rf-output.
Whether or not the unit needs an RF shield has nothing to do with whether you're using the RF output or not. The shield is there to block radio frequency interference in and out of the main part of the unit, and also the RF modulator is going to be active even if you don't use its output.
That being said, a lot of Japanese-made products from this era just slapped complete overkill shielding on the export versions, I suppose because they did not think it was worth it to keep failing their certification just to save money on parts. I've never heard of anyone having trouble with a mega drive or NES after removing the shield, in the unit itself or in nearby electronics. I would keep the shield on the actual RF modulator, though, as that is more likely to become an unintentional radiator.
Aren't the RF shields also primitive forms of cooling/heatsinks (if they make board/chip contact)?
@@acumenium8157 They can be, but usually that'd be clear and in many cases they don't.
It's just FCC requirements. They don't actually serve any purpose.
watches to see the soldering, greeted with "done it off camera" lol.
you should put a raspberry pi in the old case.
Thanks Vince keep up all the good work !!
P.a we love all your content 👍👍👍👍👍
time code 8:06 to the right of the crack in the board, and down, are a couple disturbed looking solder joints on two through hole components. Seems you just swapped the board in the end for your repair... Maybe this was the problem after all? Thanks for your vids, I'm learning stuff here!
if you need ram, you can also look at og red/white famicoms. Many are mega yellowed and/or cracked, are RF only and have attached controllers. With a bit of search you can get some in JUNK status aka untested for decently cheap.
They are also useful for PPU/CPU change, but only for NTSC consoles, PAL consoles use a totally different CPU/PPU pair.
People always act completely amazed like you're a wizard that can perform miracles when you take a water or fire damaged console, rip some components off, and repair another console.
90% destroyed is still 10% useable! If we recycled everything as vigorously as I recycle electronic components, we'd have already mined all the resources we'd need for a few years. XD
Hi Vince, Super great content as always 👍 I am enquiring about your instruments you use to fix things. Could you give a list of things you use i.e. hand tools, materials and especially your camera. I have one which I have used for many years and is starting to fail. I am very intrigued in which one you use.
Keep up the great work 😁
Dude I almost forgot about your channel bro. I think it was even before Covid I saw you the last time. Whoa
I admire your dedication, I could never have spend so much time without giving up. Might be focussing issue lol. Anyways, loved the vid!
I still have a Coleco Vision (1982) from when I was a kid. Would love to have it work even if just for nostalgic reasons.
Really great fix! Great job! 👍
Every NES deserves to have its 10NES lockout chip disabled.
3 hours? I'd definitely watch 😁
I think the CIC lockout chip pulls reset low by design if no valid game is inserted. So that behavior is expected.
There's an algorithm that runs between the CIC in the console and CIC in the game pak. It's very sensitive so that's the reason many cut Pin 4 on the CIC to disable it.
The CIC in the console and game pak are identical btw. If Pin 4 is connected, it's in "lock" role. If not, it's in "key" role. So if you ever actually do have an NES with a faulty CIC you should be able to replace it with a CIC from any random game.
Edit: commented to soon 😂. You were on that track.
Love the video, massive thumbs up, keep the loooong videos coming 👍 😀 👌 👏 🙌
RC pro AM. One of my all time favorites.
You can find some decent schematics for the NES online. They may not exactly match the unit you have but it may be close enough to give you a clue. I usually go to the console5 wiki for game console schematics first because they collect as many as they can.
The actual NES schematics however are third-party and are drawn in a somewhat confusing and unorthodox way. I often find myself referring instead to the Famicom schematic which is direct from Nintendo and is a lot more normal. Note however that aside from using the same CPU and PPU, many other things are different about the Famicom (it has no lockout chip, the cartridge and expansion connectors are completely different, it has hard-wired controllers with different signals, the io buffers are arranged differently) so that's of somewhat limited use.
One more thing to be careful about is that there are a few *different* RF/power units even with the same NES mainboard, so you have to make sure you're referring to the right one.
That's now the Ship of Theseus NES 😀
Yes!! 😂 Or 'Trigger's Broom' from 'Only Fools and Horses'.
I prefer a long video myself 10 out of 10 for persistence, didn't think one of these could have so many issues👍
really enjoy your videos excellent stuff
Nothing wrong with long videos if they're interesting, thats what Fast Forward/Skip is for.
Great video Vince! Would you mind leaving a link to the de-soldering gun? Been meaning to get one forever. Braid and solder sucker are the bane of my life!
I think we might be interested in the video of that faulty game, we're here for the journey, not necessarily the destination
I don't know what all that original scratching was about, rarely see constructive examples of that heh. Before you started I thought check the Lock-Out chip and disable it, it's a wonderful self indulgent piracy solution that often locks out legitimate cartridges lol. Shame about the PPU, always a drag when a bespoke IC dies but good fusion solution. ;)
sometimes having working unit to compare can just slow you down. Same page where you find CPU pinout have nice NES circuit diagram and if you just look at it tracing back from that blown LED....editing would be much easier for you :)
I love when you do retro consoles
I still remember back in the day I had both a Sega Master System and a(n) NES. Both came with 9V bricks with the same barrel jack. One day I accidentally plugged in the SMS using the NES adapter. Result, non-working SMS. That's when I learned the NES brick output was 9VAC whereas the SMS brick was 9VDC. Had I been handy with electronics I might have opened it up and had a look for myself, but I ended up sending it off somewhere for repair. I later blew the NES RF port by using the TG16 RF modulator that was attached to the TV, being lazy and all. I had to buy an external modulator from Radio Shack and plug it in to the composite inputs.
It's worth noting that you could simply retrobrite the original console shell and have a very nice working NES without a chipped corner on the front.
@My Mate VINCE I have a ton of broken NES's. I'm more than happy to send over WRAM and a PPU. I'll get them sent out to your PO Box this week if you're still looking :)
Hey Dan, a nice little surprise arrived for me the other day!! Thanks mate. I will include the little revisit about it in a Dash Cam video that I am working on. Thanks for doing that👍👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince No problem! The story behind those chips I sent over is sorta funny. I massively damaged a bunch of plated through-holes under the RF modulator of the NES I lifted those chips from. It was the first repair I tried when I wasn't so handy at desoldering so that board became scrap and a general playground for practice.
Anyways, if those chips can bring another system back from the dead then that's one less system for land fill which is always awesome!
Any advice? I broke the pad for the positive of my 2200 cap.
Just FYI They sell a new ppu replacement that works mostly okay. It has some compatibility issues with certain games. They used them in clone consoles.
I came across those while troubleshooting a similar issue where I had an nes that worked perfectly except it would send a troubling amount of voltage to the ppu.
I'm glad that Mission Impossible game was broken. :) I hate it, it was so difficult. It traumatized me when I was a kid.
The reset pins of the two big chips are both inputs. What made you think the big chips are faulty if they get the wrong voltage on their input? The part that produces the voltage for these inputs was much more likely to have a problem.
Bloodyhell, that does look new. I think you’ll fix it nicely. 👍