As an electrician I can imagine a huge problem with this. The appliance is plugged in, but the plug isn’t seated properly into the outlet. The thickness of the plate appears to be around 3/16”. Which is nearly a quarter inch. A toaster oven or something drawing higher amperage is what gets used in kitchens, that plug can heat up the blades, which are now partially exposed, the veneer is likely to be flammable. Additionally, heating the plug and the outlets contacts, possibly from the looser fit, creates heat, heat from resistance. Tripping the breaker. Just because something looks good doesn’t make it a good idea
Agreed...veneers (combustible veneers) fire issue & yes seating of the appliance cord is an issue that appears to not be talked about, 3/16" or 1/8", overall good product, minus the combustible/seating elliment.
As an architect doing higher end residential I just want to thank you. These videos always teach me things I don’t know. Finishes and tech. Thank you! Keep up the excellent work!
If you have a Shaper Orgin, you can save the money on the different templates and make your own perfect matched veneer covers. You could also make the gap between the outlet and base board pretty much invisible.
Yeah, but he has one on the shelf right behind his right shoulder. I agree that a DIY project wouldn't benefit from the Shaper cost, but someone that trims out high end spaces day in and day out would.
This is pretty slick! I was questioning it but by routing the recess into the wood, it made that the new “finished surface” so it satisfies NEC 314.20. And as long as the veneer is part of a UL listed kit, it satisfies NEC 406.5(d). To be on the safe side I would have the paperwork from the manufacturer ready to show the inspector. Any of them I’ve dealt with would want to see it.
Doesn't matter if your house is 100k or a 100m, everyone is using the same outlets and switches. Its great to see some innovation in this category. This seems like a great idea for historical houses.
Lots of comments about the installation height being a code issue. For what it’s worth, the National Electrical Code does not appear to specify a minimum height for receptacle installations. This, of course, doesn’t mean your municipality adopted the NEC verbatim, so your local code may have minimum height requirements. However, the NEC *does* specify in 324.20 that receptacle boxes mounted in combustible materials must be flush with the finished surface. The code allows for a recess of no more than 1/4” from the finished surface of non-combustible material. My code book is a few years old, so might be outdated. Just wanted to point out that the recessing of the box is likely more of an issue than the height at which it is installed.
The issue with recessing has to do with combustible material being exposed. By recessing the entire box this way no combustible material is open to the inside of the box. This system appears to satisfy all NEC requirements.
The ADA isn’t the NEC. If your working in a health care facility, ADA all the way. In a house? If it’s spec’D for it then yea, ADA, but otherwise it’s the NEC, local building codes, and ultimately the AHJ.
This seems dangerous and against electrical code. You are adding an extra bit of dept to the portion you plug in so it's going to hold the contact point out further which reduces it's holding power and could even lead to electrical arcing if it falls out slightly.
A trick when using the Lutron products. Get the outlet screwed mostly in, but not tight. Then attach the backing plate for the cover. Run those screws down tight. Take some playing cards and use them as spacers to get the backing plate perfectly centered in all four directions. The screws for the outlet are still accessible. Run them down tight so nothing moves. Remove the playing cards and snap the cover in place.
This was a great video again bents and u are very help ful and a great man and u always will be and I’ll always love watching u and your the best and that show was awesome and I will miss it and u sir!!
You have all four templates but the kit includes only one. I like your channel and your informative videos but this definitely seems like an ad for the manufacturer.
He was pretty upfront that you had to get the exact template to match your desired combination of box and wall plate, or at least I did not think at any point that I would get templates for more than 1 combo in an order.
cool product. @00:54 idk if an outlet that low/ in a baseboard would pass home building code regardless if it's flush or not...seems like a bad idea in general.
I think that is a very cool idea, from an electrician's perspective I'd like to see how you remove the cover without damaging the surrounding surface. I've installed many of those type of outlet covers and to remove them you need to apply some side pressure to the cover to get it to pop off the back plate. Maybe a little follow up video about removal after they are installed, would be nice. Regarding electrical code, cover plates need to be listed and non combustible. With that being said I know you can buy wood cover plates, but those plates aren't slotted where the prongs of an appliance cord pass directly through the wood part. I'm curious what a local authority would rule on these veneer plates.
I've been wondering why this wasn't a thing ever since I got into remodeling 20 Years ago. I've seen it ONCE a long time ago and have always thought flush mounted outlets are so much nicer and have wondered as well how they aren't common or a trend at the least. I was thinking more along the lines of drywall though, since that's the most common wall material- just plugin prongs and switches, no surrounding stuff, no seams either. Probably has to do with how difficult servicing them would be, you'd have to re-drywall any time you had to mess with a switch or outlet.
Something looks off when it's just the veneer and plug holes, I almost think it looks better with the proper white trim around the outlet.. But i love the idea of having it flush mounted. Cool system.
I'm just SO incredibly impressed with the template and product considerations. But what about having to remove the face if you need to do electrical work again? Is that going to destroy the veneer?
I believe that type of face plate pops off by prying in the gap with a flat stiff blade such as a putty knife or screwdriver. With a little care, you should be able to finagle it off without applying much pressure to the veneer.
If the material is non combustable it meets the National Electrical Code, if it is combustable like wood or wood veneer it does not meet the code and is in fact a dangerous fire hazard. The electrical prongs of a cord can heat up under different circumstances. As an electrician and a former NEC instructor for 20 years I would not even consider doing this in my home unless the veneer is non combustable. . There are plenty of safe alternatives.
I wouldn’t trust the veneer either, especially after the receptacle gets some age on it and starts loosing its grip. This installation method does satisfy the requirements of 314.20 though. By routing the rabbit around the edge of the hole it made that recessed surface the new “finished surface”. The face of the box sits flush with the new finished (combustible) surface and the box cover sits agains the box just like a normal installation with an old work box. As a 30 year journeyman I don’t see a code violation here. The AHJ could choose to fail it for the veneer though. Depends on the AHJ. Some are worse than others.
They are recommended to be 12-18 inches from the floor, but there’s nothing saying you can’t have outlets higher - bathroom and kitchens often have outlets above counter height
Can you really use the wooden veneir just like that? I live in one of the European Union countries, and while I cant talk for all of them, at least in here, the code requires you to use only products that have been approved for the use with electricity (they usually don't catch fire at all or at least burn at a very slow speed). Not sure if this would pass the inspection :) but it does look damn pretty :D Maybe, somebody from EU could chime in with a local product that works with our outlets and is up to code :)
Hey man, just thought I'd point out you didn't have any wire in that outlet box. Thought I'd let you know in case you plugged something in and it didn't work. 😂😂😂😂
Not sure I see the necessity for a special template or the two step process to routing what ends up being the support rabbet. Cut/rout the through hole and then rout the rabbet in one pass; or rout the rabbet in one pass then cut/rout the through hole. Maybe the factory template has value in the baseboard application, but I'm not seeing how it adds anything but cost to a relatively simple operation.
At $199 price tag I would have to agree. If a guy would have a number of them to do like maybe a contractor does and on future jobs I can see it, but a diyer and maybe used once nope, not me anyway.
I think their marketing team is missing out on the shiplap craze, it has to be 1x7 shiplap or t&g to be wide enough. There are no pics on their website other than baseboards.
Is there a way to use these with an extention frame over an existing stud mounted box? These would be great for a remodel, but having to pull the boxes in through the front would mean undoing a ton of existing wiring.
Very nice - I'm going to try these out myself. One side note: something you probably already know -- another rule change in the new NEC 2023 apparently does not allow installation of an outlet receptacle below the countertop. Maybe it's different in your area. Too many people were snagging the cord when they walked by and getting scalded from hotplates, crockpots, etc. or worse.
Interesting, but it's a solution for a problem that doesn't really exist. Besides, it's against any building code to put outlets down low into baseboards.
You are right about the baseboards, but there are other applications where a recessed outlet would be nice such as a faux brick/ stone wall that is uneven or a wall covered in knottypine/reclaimed wood. And like Jason did on his island. So I can see a contractor buying this and having it in his tool box.
@@danielakerman8241 At the beginning of the video Jason said the owner of the company that designed the jig, designed it in the first place, because a homeowner asked him if he knew of a way to inset outlets into baseboards.
Got out of electrical a decade ago, but there was nothing wrong with baseboard receptacles then. Did many houses that way, all inspected, and it was never even a question.
I wish I didn't waste a few minutes of my time watching this. I simply don't see any positive point in these. You reduce the insertion depth of the plug to receptacle contacts' engagement, which is a major negative. Engineers call this kind of thing fashion victim design.
Because 99% of receptacles are installed over drywall. And of those, it's mostly electricians who are installing them and they do not have the detailed touch of a woodworker 😂
As an electrician I can imagine a huge problem with this. The appliance is plugged in, but the plug isn’t seated properly into the outlet. The thickness of the plate appears to be around 3/16”. Which is nearly a quarter inch.
A toaster oven or something drawing higher amperage is what gets used in kitchens, that plug can heat up the blades, which are now partially exposed, the veneer is likely to be flammable.
Additionally, heating the plug and the outlets contacts, possibly from the looser fit, creates heat, heat from resistance. Tripping the breaker.
Just because something looks good doesn’t make it a good idea
Agreed...veneers (combustible veneers) fire issue & yes seating of the appliance cord is an issue that appears to not be talked about, 3/16" or 1/8", overall good product, minus the combustible/seating elliment.
As an architect doing higher end residential I just want to thank you. These videos always teach me things I don’t know. Finishes and tech. Thank you! Keep up the excellent work!
Great to hear!
If you have a Shaper Orgin, you can save the money on the different templates and make your own perfect matched veneer covers. You could also make the gap between the outlet and base board pretty much invisible.
Yikes at $3,200-$3,600 USD for the Shaper Orgin system, this approach looks a lot more financially accessible.
Yeah, but he has one on the shelf right behind his right shoulder. I agree that a DIY project wouldn't benefit from the Shaper cost, but someone that trims out high end spaces day in and day out would.
I was thinking the same thing.
I thought he cut these when I saw the thumbnail too.
This is pretty slick! I was questioning it but by routing the recess into the wood, it made that the new “finished surface” so it satisfies NEC 314.20. And as long as the veneer is part of a UL listed kit, it satisfies NEC 406.5(d). To be on the safe side I would have the paperwork from the manufacturer ready to show the inspector. Any of them I’ve dealt with would want to see it.
I build a kitchen for my daughter last year and I veneered the covers in walnut to match the island. Lot of work. Would like to have seen these then.
Doesn't matter if your house is 100k or a 100m, everyone is using the same outlets and switches. Its great to see some innovation in this category. This seems like a great idea for historical houses.
absolutely not true
Been using my flushtek jigs for a year now and it’s honestly my favorite thing to use in my projects. It’s so satisfying.
Lots of comments about the installation height being a code issue. For what it’s worth, the National Electrical Code does not appear to specify a minimum height for receptacle installations. This, of course, doesn’t mean your municipality adopted the NEC verbatim, so your local code may have minimum height requirements. However, the NEC *does* specify in 324.20 that receptacle boxes mounted in combustible materials must be flush with the finished surface. The code allows for a recess of no more than 1/4” from the finished surface of non-combustible material. My code book is a few years old, so might be outdated. Just wanted to point out that the recessing of the box is likely more of an issue than the height at which it is installed.
The issue with recessing has to do with combustible material being exposed. By recessing the entire box this way no combustible material is open to the inside of the box. This system appears to satisfy all NEC requirements.
The ADA does have something to say about mounting heights, 15"-48" is the ada standard for outlets and switches.
The ADA isn’t the NEC. If your working in a health care facility, ADA all the way. In a house? If it’s spec’D for it then yea, ADA, but otherwise it’s the NEC, local building codes, and ultimately the AHJ.
This seems dangerous and against electrical code.
You are adding an extra bit of dept to the portion you plug in so it's going to hold the contact point out further which reduces it's holding power and could even lead to electrical arcing if it falls out slightly.
A trick when using the Lutron products. Get the outlet screwed mostly in, but not tight. Then attach the backing plate for the cover. Run those screws down tight. Take some playing cards and use them as spacers to get the backing plate perfectly centered in all four directions. The screws for the outlet are still accessible. Run them down tight so nothing moves. Remove the playing cards and snap the cover in place.
Great video. I routinely use Claro wallplates so this system would work well for me.
Such a simple jig yet pretty awesome results
This was a great video again bents and u are very help ful and a great man and u always will be and I’ll always love watching u and your the best and that show was awesome and I will miss it and u sir!!
Thanks for sharing, I think it will go well with my flush base board too.
Wondering about the fire danger for the wood veneer.
You can go into Home Depot and buy wood cover plates.
@@acerjuglans383 yeah, both those arent slotted so that the plug tongs slide into it.
@acerjuglans383 wood cover plates do not have wood around the prongs.
This would be totally illegal in the EU. BR from🖤❤💛
You have all four templates but the kit includes only one. I like your channel and your informative videos but this definitely seems like an ad for the manufacturer.
TH-cam videos are now just brand advertising for a while now. They just have to be less honest about the advertising.
He was pretty upfront that you had to get the exact template to match your desired combination of box and wall plate, or at least I did not think at any point that I would get templates for more than 1 combo in an order.
Stop ads are how this works ? Are you a boomer ?
cool product. @00:54 idk if an outlet that low/ in a baseboard would pass home building code regardless if it's flush or not...seems like a bad idea in general.
1000%
My first thought…
These outlets are so slick a building inspector wouldn’t even notice them in baseboards
Would NOT pass code if it were on the countertop.
Definitely not ADA compliant
I can think of several places this would work in my home. If you had a laser you could cut the veneer yourself. Really cool .
I think that is a very cool idea, from an electrician's perspective I'd like to see how you remove the cover without damaging the surrounding surface. I've installed many of those type of outlet covers and to remove them you need to apply some side pressure to the cover to get it to pop off the back plate. Maybe a little follow up video about removal after they are installed, would be nice. Regarding electrical code, cover plates need to be listed and non combustible. With that being said I know you can buy wood cover plates, but those plates aren't slotted where the prongs of an appliance cord pass directly through the wood part. I'm curious what a local authority would rule on these veneer plates.
Looks like something you would find in a sixties trailer
I've been wondering why this wasn't a thing ever since I got into remodeling 20 Years ago. I've seen it ONCE a long time ago and have always thought flush mounted outlets are so much nicer and have wondered as well how they aren't common or a trend at the least. I was thinking more along the lines of drywall though, since that's the most common wall material- just plugin prongs and switches, no surrounding stuff, no seams either. Probably has to do with how difficult servicing them would be, you'd have to re-drywall any time you had to mess with a switch or outlet.
Totally Pro ! Do that starting shuffle with cups and a couple C-Notes you could make a fortune! Great Find…..
Something looks off when it's just the veneer and plug holes, I almost think it looks better with the proper white trim around the outlet.. But i love the idea of having it flush mounted. Cool system.
definitely dont want to be jamming screw drivers beside a wired outlet. that will end badly.
Nothing worth doing is easy, but man that looks tedious as hell
You could have used your Shaper Origin to make a cover from the same panel...
My only worry with it is that you're going with a kitchen outlet and there doesn't seem to be a GFI in it
I'm just SO incredibly impressed with the template and product considerations. But what about having to remove the face if you need to do electrical work again? Is that going to destroy the veneer?
I believe that type of face plate pops off by prying in the gap with a flat stiff blade such as a putty knife or screwdriver. With a little care, you should be able to finagle it off without applying much pressure to the veneer.
Yeah. Wow, very cool idea for a mid-century or modern home design.
If the material is non combustable it meets the National Electrical Code, if it is combustable like wood or wood veneer it does not meet the code and is in fact a dangerous fire hazard. The electrical prongs of a cord can heat up under different circumstances. As an electrician and a former NEC instructor for 20 years I would not even consider doing this in my home unless the veneer is non combustable. . There are plenty of safe alternatives.
I wouldn’t trust the veneer either, especially after the receptacle gets some age on it and starts loosing its grip. This installation method does satisfy the requirements of 314.20 though. By routing the rabbit around the edge of the hole it made that recessed surface the new “finished surface”. The face of the box sits flush with the new finished (combustible) surface and the box cover sits agains the box just like a normal installation with an old work box. As a 30 year journeyman I don’t see a code violation here. The AHJ could choose to fail it for the veneer though. Depends on the AHJ. Some are worse than others.
Such a cool product. Thanks for sharing!
Anything for you! 🤣
Thank you for bringing me the joy of discovering a new thing to want.
You’re welcome 🤣
Aren't outlets supposed to be so many inches from the floor?
They are recommended to be 12-18 inches from the floor, but there’s nothing saying you can’t have outlets higher - bathroom and kitchens often have outlets above counter height
Can you really use the wooden veneir just like that?
I live in one of the European Union countries, and while I cant talk for all of them, at least in here, the code requires you to use only products that have been approved for the use with electricity (they usually don't catch fire at all or at least burn at a very slow speed). Not sure if this would pass the inspection :) but it does look damn pretty :D
Maybe, somebody from EU could chime in with a local product that works with our outlets and is up to code :)
How do you remove cover after you have snapped it place in case you need to get in box?
I would use a plastic pry tool. Carefully.
@@ngarberI say get a bojo pry tool. Recently got hooked and bought a few.
@@alberthuaYeah, those. Never knew who made them, thanks.
Hey man, just thought I'd point out you didn't have any wire in that outlet box. Thought I'd let you know in case you plugged something in and it didn't work. 😂😂😂😂
No wonder my phone wouldn’t charge
Not sure I see the necessity for a special template or the two step process to routing what ends up being the support rabbet. Cut/rout the through hole and then rout the rabbet in one pass; or rout the rabbet in one pass then cut/rout the through hole. Maybe the factory template has value in the baseboard application, but I'm not seeing how it adds anything but cost to a relatively simple operation.
At $199 price tag I would have to agree. If a guy would have a number of them to do like maybe a contractor does and on future jobs I can see it, but a diyer and maybe used once nope, not me anyway.
Bocci outlets look much cleaner. I see the appeal and where this could be used instead.
True fig was the first. I have used this style for about 7nyears now.
Does the thickness of the veneer affect how well the plug fits?
I may be wrong but shouldn't electric outlets be at least 18" of the floor?
Is it possible to use the template in upright possition in already installed wood paneling?
I don't wish I saw this sooner.
Man you have my dream shop, you even have a Festool screwdriver😢😮😅
I think their marketing team is missing out on the shiplap craze, it has to be 1x7 shiplap or t&g to be wide enough. There are no pics on their website other than baseboards.
I believe Matt Cremona just used these in his home renovation.
great overview jason!
Thanks buddy
The veneer seems to violate code. Is the veneer soaked in fire retardent?
Isn't the veneer a fire hazard risk if it contacts your plug?
How easy is it to get that cover plate off after you snap it in?
My second thought😂
Is there a way to use these with an extention frame over an existing stud mounted box? These would be great for a remodel, but having to pull the boxes in through the front would mean undoing a ton of existing wiring.
Very nice - I'm going to try these out myself. One side note: something you probably already know -- another rule change in the new NEC 2023 apparently does not allow installation of an outlet receptacle below the countertop. Maybe it's different in your area. Too many people were snagging the cord when they walked by and getting scalded from hotplates, crockpots, etc. or worse.
Lowest common denominators. 😒
Some of have no legal duty to follow the NEC..I won’t when it’s stupid.
Others are under different NEC versions.
And for European style (modular)? Do you know something similar?
You learn something new every day.Something to try in the future.
An interesting 16:32 video would make an electrician life easier
I was waiting for this video!!!
👍👍
Interesting, but it's a solution for a problem that doesn't really exist. Besides, it's against any building code to put outlets down low into baseboards.
You are right about the baseboards, but there are other applications where a recessed outlet would be nice such as a faux brick/ stone wall that is uneven or a wall covered in knottypine/reclaimed wood. And like Jason did on his island. So I can see a contractor buying this and having it in his tool box.
Who said anything about putting it into baseboards? The application he showed was on the back of a kitchen island, well above the floor
@@danielakerman8241 At the beginning of the video Jason said the owner of the company that designed the jig, designed it in the first place, because a homeowner asked him if he knew of a way to inset outlets into baseboards.
Can you show me where to find minimum receptacle height in NEC for residential. I can’t find it. Thx!
Got out of electrical a decade ago, but there was nothing wrong with baseboard receptacles then. Did many houses that way, all inspected, and it was never even a question.
is that UL listed?
C L E A N
“Levitron”?
Very nice!!!
Thanks!!
The mismatching color and grain makes me cringe
Solutions for first-world problems😎
I wish I didn't waste a few minutes of my time watching this. I simply don't see any positive point in these. You reduce the insertion depth of the plug to receptacle contacts' engagement, which is a major negative. Engineers call this kind of thing fashion victim design.
Because 99% of receptacles are installed over drywall.
And of those, it's mostly electricians who are installing them and they do not have the detailed touch of a woodworker 😂
I can only imagine the hours and labor cost to something like this for an entire house. Way too much for it if you have anything for than a few to do.