Thomas, I’d just like to say how thankful I am for this video. I used it yesterday when replacing my rack on my Mk4 Jetta 1.8t and it was dead on. For anyone contemplating attempting this, it’s not that hard of a job as long as you are patient. The only issue I came into with was rethreading the banjo bolt on the return line. To make it easier, I just disconnected the line from the PS reservoir. I now have a new rack and am currently awaiting an alignment. Thank you so much!!
Thank you for sharing your DIY success! Thank you for watching! Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers. Contact info is in the description... my website (fkh161)... click on Tool Request.
Thank you for taking this and turning it into a language I understand. Had this same issue happen on my 2004 TDI Beetle yesterday. I have no idea how to work on vehicles, and I was able to get this out in about three hours. You are a life saver! THANK YOU!
Omg, dude, your comments while working are like you are a brother from another mother. Work it, work it, more lube.... she said.... Cracked me up... that’s life in in the shop. Luv your work!
Hi, thank you very much for the video 👍. I will have to replace mine on a Seat Leon 1.8T of 2005, 280.000 km. A massive oil leak going out from the boots of the driver side inner tie rod. Looks to be the exact same configuration as the VW A4. Hope you décide to resume your excellent videos 🙂 Cheers and thanks again👋
@@EXOVCDS I’m also replacing the tie rod assemblies and boots, all 4 hoses, as well as power steering pump. It’s the original rack from a 2003 Passat 1.8T FWD.
Wow, that was fast. Gonna try to do this myself when temperatures goes up. TT seems to be pretty much the same procedure. Targed time to do this for me is 10h 😂
Thomas, at this 5:03 point in the video you're using a miniductor to loosen the nut. I'm wondering if you would recommend or advise against using this tool on the same model VW, on the bolt that attaches the control arm to the subframe. I ask because my understanding is that there is a captive nut on the back side of the sub frame that is completely inaccessible, and welded to the subframe. If the weld breaks, the bolt cannot be removed. Some TH-cam videos show people grinding through the subframe to create an access port and using a pry bar to stabilize the nut while trying to remove the bolt. This is not ideal for many reasons. The biggest is that the subframe will be damaged and weakened. This brings up the question of the best way to remove the bolt without breaking the weld on the captive nut. My thinking is that the plenty of break free should first be applied, several times, over the course of weeks. Then, apply heat (possibly with a miniductor or heat gun) to the bolt and slowly attempt to break torque on the bolt. What's your advice. This is another great video. Thumbs up given.
Whatever you think will work best for you / is the safest way to go. Automotive shops don't have the luxury of soaking stuff for several days. If something breaks, a new part is sold. Not the technicians fault that a seized / old componed causes problems.
@@EXOVCDS Yes, definitely understand the perspective of a professional shop. I'm doing it all myself. I'll make it happen. I'll just try hard to not end up replacing the subframe.
Great video mate, heck of a job .... 😜 I’ll be replacing my friends e46 clutch this week and trying the pr88 looking forward to it, I’ll let you know how I get on thx again 👍
Thomas EXOVCDS It's impacting like a impact wrench . My friend does mostly suspension work and he loves it . Check it out your shoulders will love it too :)
Yeah... I don't know how you guys put up with it. I suppose a rack replacement can quickly turn into a subframe & rack replacement... or if the subframe bolts break, car replacement!? =)
Thomas EXOVCDS no wonder lol i tried to do the gopro head angle and it didn't work out but this is pretty cool, 😎very seamless. Are those the pivothead cameras?
This might be stupid question. I am planning to replace mine on my 2002 Audi A3 1.8T. What is the process after getting the new one in? Does any bleeding need to take place. Thanks for the video.
Fill fluid, start engine, fill fluid some more to min/max level, turn steering left & right, check fluid level... top up more if needed. Check for leaks.
Did two under cover, but the second one was in January in an unheated garage. Thankfully, it warmed up to only just below freezing in time for the rack replacement. Like R P mentioned, takes longer. You also have to think more about the front jack stand positions, and to get enough height to leave you working room to lower the subframe, and apply enough torque to the bolts that hold it in. Thomas made some excellent notes about replacing the sway-bar bushings, and/or the PS lines if they're not in good shape, while you're in there.
That heat shield on the rack doesn't hold the rack in place at all. You can remove the rack with the heat shield installed and swap it to the new one on the ground.
Regular fluid changes (at least every 4 years) should help keep things clean... aside from leaks, the only other thing or more common thing to go on them, are the inner & outer tie-rod ends. I've never seen a rack that had excessive internal pinion play or gear issues in general.
I know I'm late to this but is a 2013 VW passat the same or similar because I got to change the whole rack and pinion I've been watching all sorts of DIY videos and it would be helpful for some professional advice alrighty then later man.
Hey what's up bro? I got my rack and pinion out successfully and installed so just thought I let you know thank you for responding to me have a good one man peace
Thanks for the updated steering rack video. Thomas, I don't have to change a steering rack *YET* on my mk4, but I"m intending to do something related, so I want to bounce the idea off you: I'm going to do a TT/R32 front suspension swap on the car, and I have a spare subframe that I'm sandblasting/painting up to swap in with the new suspension parts. Is it "okay" to let the rack hang off the steering yoke while I swap out the subframe and LCAs either side? Or, should I be supporting it better, while I swap out? Your input would be appreciated.
Hello friend My steering wheel yells when the engine is idling and turns very hard when driving on the road no problem at top revs the engine makes the steering pump zero new changed??? Before you are help me im fixed my car i hope you again help me
VW B5 Passat is similar to B5 Audi A4... this is the only video I have, that might help you. The service manual should lists steps required. th-cam.com/video/FOym0WVXSsI/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for all these videos, I used your 020 trans vids to change out a transmission on a mk3 cabrio. Would this video work for an mk3.5 cabrio? I Plan to switch out the mk3 cabrio steering rack into my mk3.5 cabrio... the mk3 is non abs model if that makes it any different due to sizes and rear brake differences.. Thank you so much for all your videos!
Thank you for watching. The mk3 subframe removal is similar... however, you need to support the engine & transmission from the top. The engine & transmission mounts at the back are bolted to the subframe. Lowering the subframe can only be done if those mounts are disconnected from it... to keep the engine & transmission from lowering with the subframe, you need to support the engine & transmission from underneath or from above.
@@EXOVCDS God bless your heart and soul you are scholar and a gentleman, I'm going to try and tackle this next week! I tried at-205 reseal and it stopped my leak for about 2 months, but now my rack leaks like crazy at the inner tie rods when the wheels are pointed straight :(. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, a/c compressor/ expansion valve, drier/receiver, coolant temp sensor, cabin air filter, all thanks to you and your videos. I hope you win the lottery!
I have a question I've been trying to figure out. My steering is incredibly stiff and there are no leaks. It's been like that since I've owned the car. The fluid was brown and smelt burnt so I changed it and bled the system and it actually feels worse. (correct green fluid). Could this be the pump or the rack? also when i turn the wheel there is a creaking sound coming from the drivers side
We don't have Audi A2's in Canada... I have not had to pull any Audi Steering Racks so far. I have removed a VW B5 Steering Rack, which is similar to an Audi B5 Rack: th-cam.com/video/FOym0WVXSsI/w-d-xo.html I would have to find & check an Audi A2 Service manual (what year? The more info I have the better I can help) to see what is involved.
Hello Thomas I've been watching a lot of your videos and they are just awesome! I would like to ask you something maybe you can help me: on a MK2 Golf 020 gearbox how do you put the washer and circlip back in when replacing the seals of the flange? I've been struggling and I never thought such an easy job could turn out so complicated! Thanks a lot and keep uploading ;)
hello guys! my car has problems when i step harder on the gas pedal, like when overtaking; the engine hesitates and the car jerks; when accelerating normally, the engine runs perfectly, also the engine idles normally; this problem is even more obvious when i have the AC on; the car has this symptoms for about 2 months now, and no engine light has come on! could it be the fuel pump dying or the fuel pressure regulator? i would be grateful for an opinion! my car is a 2001 audi with a normally aspirated engine.
yes, it could be lots of things! about the ignition, i changed the spark plugs, the spark plug wires and the ignition coil 8 months ago with quality parts, so they should be OK; i forgot to mention that even if the car starts first time every time, it does take just a bit too long, considering my battery is just 1 year old and, like i said, all the ignition parts are almost new, that's why i suspect the pump or the regulator! anyways, i'm just looking to shorten the list of suspects, before i take the car to a mechanic, and i figured that someone else must have had a similar problem to mine; thanks for your reply!
Hi Thomas on my mk4 2.0 one of the pully making a lot of chatter and ive changed belt tensioner as well as alternator pully. Next I plan on replacing the power steering pump. Just wondering if I can replace powersteering pump bearings or do I have to replace the whole pump? Could it also be the ac pully?
Make sure that the crankshaft bolt is tight. th-cam.com/video/o_bhRnnzMWQ/w-d-xo.html The crank pulley could be bad (rubber damper). Post a video on your channel so that I can see & hear. Does BMAC VAGS reply this quickly?
Sorry... I forgot to reply about the other questions. Depending on the noise (belt chatter is different from a bearing noise) AC or PS bearings could be what you are hearing. We don't overhaul PS pumps... if it's the AC clutch bearing, turning AC ON will reduce the noise. If the noise gets louder, the AC compressor itself possibly.
Curious, did you use a breaker bar on the subframe bolts because it was less of a chance of breaking a bolt or did the impact not have enough torque? I know the nuts are welded on the other side and can image it is a nightmare if you break the weld and the nut spins. Just trying to figure out what would be safer in this situation a breaker bar or impact?
I have gutless impact guns... I have better feel with a breaker bar (in case something is gonna snap), meaning I can back off on the pressure. With an impact I can't (aside from the air setting).
Thanks for the input. Subframe really rusty and replacing mine. I have both the mid torque and the high torque Milwaukee impacts, so torque is not a problem. The headaches of breaking the bolt or the weld on a nut, is having me think a different approach. Might have to pull out the manual to see if I can select a lower torque setting on the impact or go the breaker bar approach.
You might want to keep in mind the fragile point on the subframe is the two captive nuts that are bonded, hidden inside -- the pair of nuts that you thread a bolt in to secure the front of the lower control arms to the subframe. Make sure your replacement has them working, and read up on your torque settings for those front bolts.
Thanks chrstphrr, have the service manual for the torque settings and purchasing a subframe aftermarket new. Thanks for the heads up, will check the nuts welded to the new subframe. I need also to put in new tie rods. Trying to figure out the easiest way. It looks pretty tight to clamp the tie rod boots to the rack and thinking about removing the steering rack, install loose on loose to the new subframe, while off vehicle, including new tie rods and boots and then install on car. Also possibly installing swaybar with new bushings loosely on new subframe while off. With rack loose on subframe it might be easier to install to steering universal. Or another possibility is remove steering rack and install new tie rods with boots and then attach to steering universal, hold up with some rope, install subframe and then install bolts to rack. Any recommendations?
A new subframe should have very secure captive nuts -- I tend to re-use old ones, so they could've had LCA bolts overtightened in them one or more times in their previous lives. I'd opt for installing the sway bar on the new subframe before -- it would even more of a pain to remove than the rack is in Thomas' video here, in that confined space. And not loosely -- They're a pain to work on in that small space, if you can get the bushings and hold down clips buttoned down ahead, you'll save yourself the trouble later. The sway bar can still turn and pivot free enough when new bushings are installed. The downside to removing the rack to do the tie rods is, you'll have to deal with the power steering fluid. I seem to remember that the steering yoke/column could pull up and adjust a bit, so the rack might not need to be loose. But, I can't remember if having the rack unbolted was better for it to help line up the steering yoke/universal joint or not (the last rack I changed was 3-1/2 years ago). You could loosely bolt the rack onto the subframe if you're intending to remove it too, for the purpose of keeping it in place as you raise up the subframe into position, and later unbolt it. The bolts for the rack would give the rack some up and down movement, not really much play in any other directions, if more than two bolts are in. I'm waiting on Thomas' advice on either your last question, or the one I posed about my suspension + subframe swap -- we're both wondering if, when swapping out the subframe, how much support the rack requires. If it's held in by the steering yoke and the tie rods attached to the steering knuckles, maybe it'll be supported well enough to swap the subframe in while it hangs on 3 points?
Is the steering pressure hose malfunctioning? 880 rpm very hard turning steering 1500-2000-3000 rpm smooth steering. 8E2422893BS 1J0422893CN My car seat exeo 1.6 alz 2010 Zero inserted Steering pump 8D0145156K ??
The video is for a VW A4 (4th generation of the A platform... golf / jetta). Your Audi A4 (B5/B6) is much different... more like this VW Passat (B5): th-cam.com/video/FOym0WVXSsI/w-d-xo.html
Once you use a black impact socket often enough... it's not as black anymore. If you need picture proof... send me your email and I'll send you a picture of my impact socket set.
@@EXOVCDS Yeah my 17 impact is lookin a little white, at least where it's contacted the wheels or been stressed. But nothing close to as silver/chrome as your sockets do. Your sockets look like they have a coating to make them silver/chrome all over.
I just did this today and both tie rods wouldnt come loose has to cut the fuckers the cars still on jack stand and off to get new rods tommorw, hope the spline is easy.enough to reconnect as it's looking a little short .all outside with a shitty cold.and running nose.
Thanks for the video. It was easy to swap mine because of this🤘. I got only one problem and I got to ask...since I got everything back in its place, ASR light lid up. I did basic wheelturning etc. to "tell" the car that everything is ok, but after 10 miles driving it came back. It went away whet I shutted down engine, but soon after that it came back and won't go away. Even vcds couldn't fix the problem cause it's says: "mecanical malfunction in the steering angle sensor" (roughly translated from finnish). What the heck I did wrong?? Did broke something from the steeringshaft when I took the 13mm bolt of? Or does the anglesensor just have to be reprogrammed with VAG dealer? What really are the chances that so called clockspring broke down just now?
sure miss your videos
Thanks... not too many do (reflected by view count over the last 2 years, of videos that I posted).
Thomas,
I’d just like to say how thankful I am for this video. I used it yesterday when replacing my rack on my Mk4 Jetta 1.8t and it was dead on. For anyone contemplating attempting this, it’s not that hard of a job as long as you are patient. The only issue I came into with was rethreading the banjo bolt on the return line. To make it easier, I just disconnected the line from the PS reservoir. I now have a new rack and am currently awaiting an alignment. Thank you so much!!
Thank you for sharing your DIY success! Thank you for watching! Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers. Contact info is in the description... my website (fkh161)... click on Tool Request.
Very well done with your explanation as proceeding ! Thank you much !
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for taking this and turning it into a language I understand. Had this same issue happen on my 2004 TDI Beetle yesterday.
I have no idea how to work on vehicles, and I was able to get this out in about three hours. You are a life saver!
THANK YOU!
Thank you for watching!
Omg, dude, your comments while working are like you are a brother from another mother. Work it, work it, more lube....
she said....
Cracked me up... that’s life in in the shop.
Luv your work!
Thank you for watching! =)
Hi, thank you very much for the video 👍. I will have to replace mine on a Seat Leon 1.8T of 2005, 280.000 km. A massive oil leak going out from the boots of the driver side inner tie rod.
Looks to be the exact same configuration as the VW A4.
Hope you décide to resume your excellent videos 🙂
Cheers and thanks again👋
Thank you for watching!
Never done it. But you've given me hope for when the day comes!. Thanks!
That's what I'm here for! =)
I’m gonna attempt to rebuild mine. Looks like a ton of O-Rings and Seals!
Is it pretty easy?
I haven't rebuilt racks in 20+ years. Depending on how old and worn it is... a seal kit might only last a few years.
@@EXOVCDS I’m also replacing the tie rod assemblies and boots, all 4 hoses, as well as power steering pump. It’s the original rack from a 2003 Passat 1.8T FWD.
Wow, that was fast. Gonna try to do this myself when temperatures goes up. TT seems to be pretty much the same procedure. Targed time to do this for me is 10h 😂
Yes, TT will be similar to this A4 Jetta/Golf/Beetle. Thank you for watching! Video editing reduces time... I'm sure you'll get it done in under 5.
Thomas, at this 5:03 point in the video you're using a miniductor to loosen the nut. I'm wondering if you would recommend or advise against using this tool on the same model VW, on the bolt that attaches the control arm to the subframe. I ask because my understanding is that there is a captive nut on the back side of the sub frame that is completely inaccessible, and welded to the subframe. If the weld breaks, the bolt cannot be removed. Some TH-cam videos show people grinding through the subframe to create an access port and using a pry bar to stabilize the nut while trying to remove the bolt. This is not ideal for many reasons. The biggest is that the subframe will be damaged and weakened. This brings up the question of the best way to remove the bolt without breaking the weld on the captive nut. My thinking is that the plenty of break free should first be applied, several times, over the course of weeks. Then, apply heat (possibly with a miniductor or heat gun) to the bolt and slowly attempt to break torque on the bolt. What's your advice. This is another great video. Thumbs up given.
Whatever you think will work best for you / is the safest way to go. Automotive shops don't have the luxury of soaking stuff for several days. If something breaks, a new part is sold. Not the technicians fault that a seized / old componed causes problems.
@@EXOVCDS Yes, definitely understand the perspective of a professional shop. I'm doing it all myself. I'll make it happen. I'll just try hard to not end up replacing the subframe.
@@RedondoBeach2make sure not to reuse that bolt. Mechanic did for me and the subframe came loose while I was driving
Dammit I hate you! Naw just Kidding! You make working on Cars look so Easy! You are a natural at it. Great and informative videos!
This job looks like s PIA even up on a lift. I couldn’t imagine how much worse it would be if you’re flat on your back. 😀👍
5 years later lmao but not terrible on my back currently doing it
I would need a manicure after that job. Well done Thomas.
Come on... we all know you don't get your hands dirty! =)
haha That would mess up my hand modeling career. :-)
Great video mate, heck of a job .... 😜 I’ll be replacing my friends e46 clutch this week and trying the pr88 looking forward to it, I’ll let you know how I get on thx again 👍
It's great stuff... you'll get hooked!
Wow I wouldn't want to do that again :) have you tried the IR hammerhead impact ratchet yet.
No... using a breaker bar is sometimes the safest way to go / break them loose.
Thomas EXOVCDS It's impacting like a impact wrench . My friend does mostly suspension work and he loves it . Check it out your shoulders will love it too :)
I'm envious of your climate there in B.C. Here in Ontario the salt and rust make these jobs very difficult
Yeah... I don't know how you guys put up with it. I suppose a rack replacement can quickly turn into a subframe & rack replacement... or if the subframe bolts break, car replacement!? =)
Good video, I will have to remove the one from my car because it is leaking from the driver's side, I will follow your steps, thank you very much.
Thank you for watching!
13:43 excellent job!
Thank you for watching!
I'm glad you stored that out lol I'm digging the first person headlit camera angle. Subbed 👍 nice work!
Not too many people like the POV camera angle... thank you for watching & subbing!
Video glasses... forgot to mention.
Thomas EXOVCDS no wonder lol i tried to do the gopro head angle and it didn't work out but this is pretty cool, 😎very seamless. Are those the pivothead cameras?
Thomas EXOVCDS lol never mind saw the ivue link, pretty cool
This might be stupid question. I am planning to replace mine on my 2002 Audi A3 1.8T. What is the process after getting the new one in? Does any bleeding need to take place.
Thanks for the video.
Fill fluid, start engine, fill fluid some more to min/max level, turn steering left & right, check fluid level... top up more if needed. Check for leaks.
So many puns, so little time. Love it, lol.
Check out Badger's latest video... he's got a good one in that one! LOL
Wouldn't fancy doing that job lol especially on a driveway!
I wouldn't either.
Did two under cover, but the second one was in January in an unheated garage. Thankfully, it warmed up to only just below freezing in time for the rack replacement.
Like R P mentioned, takes longer. You also have to think more about the front jack stand positions, and to get enough height to leave you working room to lower the subframe, and apply enough torque to the bolts that hold it in.
Thomas made some excellent notes about replacing the sway-bar bushings, and/or the PS lines if they're not in good shape, while you're in there.
I'd safely say, I think that's a job I'd give to my mechanic .. 😂
Where do they leak from? I cant even see where its leaking on mine, is it the boot ?
@@osirisfornever9127 usually the boot yeah. That's where mine just sprung a massive leak from just a few hours ago today
Hey man is there any difference betwen 1.8 petrol steering rack, and one from 2.5 tdi quattro.
This video is for VW A4 (4th generation of the A platform).
Audi A4 (B platform is different).
you make this look very easy :) ... may i ask, how long did this take to complete the job?
E Perry I lose track of time... waiting for parts / do other things / finish the next day etc. I think labor rate is around 3hrs... which is do-able.
That heat shield on the rack doesn't hold the rack in place at all. You can remove the rack with the heat shield installed and swap it to the new one on the ground.
Yes... I have a lot of blond moments. =)
Just did it today u need to get closer with the cam made it much harder than it needed to be
Thanks for the up dated video.
Other than leaking what kind of problems do they have?
What can you do to make them last longer? Change oil for one...
Regular fluid changes (at least every 4 years) should help keep things clean... aside from leaks, the only other thing or more common thing to go on them, are the inner & outer tie-rod ends. I've never seen a rack that had excessive internal pinion play or gear issues in general.
Thank you for reminding me how much this is a fucking headache
You're welcome.
This was very hard job.. especially when bolts don't want to come out.
Could have been worse. =)
I know I'm late to this but is a 2013 VW passat the same or similar because I got to change the whole rack and pinion I've been watching all sorts of DIY videos and it would be helpful for some professional advice alrighty then later man.
Completely different. If you need service info... click the fkh161 link in the description and then click on "tool request" to send me a message.
Hey what's up bro? I got my rack and pinion out successfully and installed so just thought I let you know thank you for responding to me have a good one man peace
Thanks for the update!
Thanks for the updated steering rack video. Thomas, I don't have to change a steering rack *YET* on my mk4, but I"m intending to do something related, so I want to bounce the idea off you:
I'm going to do a TT/R32 front suspension swap on the car, and I have a spare subframe that I'm sandblasting/painting up to swap in with the new suspension parts.
Is it "okay" to let the rack hang off the steering yoke while I swap out the subframe and LCAs either side? Or, should I be supporting it better, while I swap out? Your input would be appreciated.
I would support it / tie it up a bit with bungee cords... might be ok to just let hang, but might as well support it a little.
Hello friend My steering wheel yells when the engine is idling and turns very hard when driving on the road no problem at top revs the engine makes the steering pump zero new changed???
Before you are help me im fixed my car i hope you again help me
I'm not sure... have you already tried to flush the system with new fluid?
Are there lots of bubbles in the fluid?
those 2 rack fasteners for the lines are easy to get to through the top.
I have never tried... thanks for the info! =)
have to remove the airbox but as u know that takes literally 30 seconds. 5spd car don't know if the automatics get in the way.
hey Thomas , may you please send me a video of Audi A4 1998 steering rack removal ? thank you .
VW B5 Passat is similar to B5 Audi A4... this is the only video I have, that might help you. The service manual should lists steps required.
th-cam.com/video/FOym0WVXSsI/w-d-xo.html
@@EXOVCDS
thank you so much Thomas , i appreciate that !
Thank you for watching!
Couldn't you have just lowered the subframe more to get the rack out instead of taking off the heat shield and messing around with the sway bar?
Hindsight is always 20/20... could have / should have. Thank you for watching.
Thank you for all these videos, I used your 020 trans vids to change out a transmission on a mk3 cabrio. Would this video work for an mk3.5 cabrio? I Plan to switch out the mk3 cabrio steering rack into my mk3.5 cabrio... the mk3 is non abs model if that makes it any different due to sizes and rear brake differences.. Thank you so much for all your videos!
Thank you for watching. The mk3 subframe removal is similar... however, you need to support the engine & transmission from the top. The engine & transmission mounts at the back are bolted to the subframe. Lowering the subframe can only be done if those mounts are disconnected from it... to keep the engine & transmission from lowering with the subframe, you need to support the engine & transmission from underneath or from above.
@@EXOVCDS God bless your heart and soul you are scholar and a gentleman, I'm going to try and tackle this next week! I tried at-205 reseal and it stopped my leak for about 2 months, but now my rack leaks like crazy at the inner tie rods when the wheels are pointed straight :(. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, a/c compressor/ expansion valve, drier/receiver, coolant temp sensor, cabin air filter, all thanks to you and your videos. I hope you win the lottery!
@@himynameissonny Work safe, let me know if you run into any issues! Be sure to support the vehicle safely when raising it!!!
I have a question I've been trying to figure out. My steering is incredibly stiff and there are no leaks. It's been like that since I've owned the car. The fluid was brown and smelt burnt so I changed it and bled the system and it actually feels worse. (correct green fluid). Could this be the pump or the rack? also when i turn the wheel there is a creaking sound coming from the drivers side
Year, make, model, engine?
I don't suppose you've done this job on an Audi A2? I assume it's the same process.
We don't have Audi A2's in Canada... I have not had to pull any Audi Steering Racks so far. I have removed a VW B5 Steering Rack, which is similar to an Audi B5 Rack: th-cam.com/video/FOym0WVXSsI/w-d-xo.html
I would have to find & check an Audi A2 Service manual (what year? The more info I have the better I can help) to see what is involved.
Doctor Thomas!
Hello Thomas I've been watching a lot of your videos and they are just awesome!
I would like to ask you something maybe you can help me: on a MK2 Golf 020 gearbox how do you put the washer and circlip back in when replacing the seals of the flange? I've been struggling and I never thought such an easy job could turn out so complicated!
Thanks a lot and keep uploading ;)
You need to attach a puller that applies pressure to the flange... then install the washer & clamp.
brokevw.com/020flange.html
hello guys! my car has problems when i step harder on the gas pedal, like when overtaking; the engine hesitates and the car jerks; when accelerating normally, the engine runs perfectly, also the engine idles normally; this problem is even more obvious when i have the AC on; the car has this symptoms for about 2 months now, and no engine light has come on! could it be the fuel pump dying or the fuel pressure regulator? i would be grateful for an opinion! my car is a 2001 audi with a normally aspirated engine.
Could be fuel related... could be ignition... could be something else.
yes, it could be lots of things! about the ignition, i changed the spark plugs, the spark plug wires and the ignition coil 8 months ago with quality parts, so they should be OK; i forgot to mention that even if the car starts first time every time, it does take just a bit too long, considering my battery is just 1 year old and, like i said, all the ignition parts are almost new, that's why i suspect the pump or the regulator! anyways, i'm just looking to shorten the list of suspects, before i take the car to a mechanic, and i figured that someone else must have had a similar problem to mine; thanks for your reply!
Hi Thomas on my mk4 2.0 one of the pully making a lot of chatter and ive changed belt tensioner as well as alternator pully. Next I plan on replacing the power steering pump. Just wondering if I can replace powersteering pump bearings or do I have to replace the whole pump? Could it also be the ac pully?
Make sure that the crankshaft bolt is tight.
th-cam.com/video/o_bhRnnzMWQ/w-d-xo.html
The crank pulley could be bad (rubber damper).
Post a video on your channel so that I can see & hear.
Does BMAC VAGS reply this quickly?
Sorry... I forgot to reply about the other questions.
Depending on the noise (belt chatter is different from a bearing noise) AC or PS bearings could be what you are hearing. We don't overhaul PS pumps... if it's the AC clutch bearing, turning AC ON will reduce the noise. If the noise gets louder, the AC compressor itself possibly.
@@EXOVCDS no sir they do not! You are the only youtuber/mechanic that has ever replied to a question of mine.
@@EXOVCDS I will make a video and post it within the hour for you to see. You DA MAN Thomas
@@garyburgess7980 OK, I will wait for the upload.
Curious, did you use a breaker bar on the subframe bolts because it was less of a chance of breaking a bolt or did the impact not have enough torque? I know the nuts are welded on the other side and can image it is a nightmare if you break the weld and the nut spins. Just trying to figure out what would be safer in this situation a breaker bar or impact?
I have gutless impact guns... I have better feel with a breaker bar (in case something is gonna snap), meaning I can back off on the pressure. With an impact I can't (aside from the air setting).
Thanks for the input. Subframe really rusty and replacing mine. I have both the mid torque and the high torque Milwaukee impacts, so torque is not a problem. The headaches of breaking the bolt or the weld on a nut, is having me think a different approach. Might have to pull out the manual to see if I can select a lower torque setting on the impact or go the breaker bar approach.
You might want to keep in mind the fragile point on the subframe is the two captive nuts that are bonded, hidden inside -- the pair of nuts that you thread a bolt in to secure the front of the lower control arms to the subframe. Make sure your replacement has them working, and read up on your torque settings for those front bolts.
Thanks chrstphrr, have the service manual for the torque settings and purchasing a subframe aftermarket new. Thanks for the heads up, will check the nuts welded to the new subframe. I need also to put in new tie rods. Trying to figure out the easiest way. It looks pretty tight to clamp the tie rod boots to the rack and thinking about removing the steering rack, install loose on loose to the new subframe, while off vehicle, including new tie rods and boots and then install on car. Also possibly installing swaybar with new bushings loosely on new subframe while off. With rack loose on subframe it might be easier to install to steering universal. Or another possibility is remove steering rack and install new tie rods with boots and then attach to steering universal, hold up with some rope, install subframe and then install bolts to rack. Any recommendations?
A new subframe should have very secure captive nuts -- I tend to re-use old ones, so they could've had LCA bolts overtightened in them one or more times in their previous lives.
I'd opt for installing the sway bar on the new subframe before -- it would even more of a pain to remove than the rack is in Thomas' video here, in that confined space.
And not loosely -- They're a pain to work on in that small space, if you can get the bushings and hold down clips buttoned down ahead, you'll save yourself the trouble later. The sway bar can still turn and pivot free enough when new bushings are installed.
The downside to removing the rack to do the tie rods is, you'll have to deal with the power steering fluid. I seem to remember that the steering yoke/column could pull up and adjust a bit, so the rack might not need to be loose. But, I can't remember if having the rack unbolted was better for it to help line up the steering yoke/universal joint or not (the last rack I changed was 3-1/2 years ago). You could loosely bolt the rack onto the subframe if you're intending to remove it too, for the purpose of keeping it in place as you raise up the subframe into position, and later unbolt it. The bolts for the rack would give the rack some up and down movement, not really much play in any other directions, if more than two bolts are in.
I'm waiting on Thomas' advice on either your last question, or the one I posed about my suspension + subframe swap -- we're both wondering if, when swapping out the subframe, how much support the rack requires. If it's held in by the steering yoke and the tie rods attached to the steering knuckles, maybe it'll be supported well enough to swap the subframe in while it hangs on 3 points?
Does this also apply to the City Golfs which are pretty much a facelifted A4?
Yes.
Does a steering rack have to be leaking to be bad?
Bad how / in what way?
Racks usually leak oil or the tie-rods go bad.
I have not seen any other symptoms with VW steering racks.
Year, make, model, engine?
nice job mate
Sorted!
Hi thomas my golf 3 is pawer steering i ken put manual steering rack or not
Is the steering pressure hose malfunctioning? 880 rpm very hard turning steering 1500-2000-3000 rpm smooth steering.
8E2422893BS
1J0422893CN
My car seat exeo 1.6 alz 2010
Zero inserted Steering pump 8D0145156K ??
I'm not sure... have you already tried to flush the system with new fluid?
Are there lots of bubbles in the fluid?
@@EXOVCDS Yes, we washed, we took the air of the diesel oil mixture system, I made a 50 km city road
@@EXOVCDS Pump pulley big and small difference, does the steering make stiffness?
@@EXOVCDS I suspect the pressure hose do you think it could
@@stillinplayjoker2325 maybe... the only way to know, is to change it.
Can this stering rack repair or needs to buy new one
Can be repaired... but we install a remanufactured unit.
Incredible
Thank you for watching!
Hey how bad is it to replace the inner sway bar bushings on a A4?
VW A4 or Audi A4?
Thomas EXOVCDS vw jetta 2000 with the 2.0 GL
Would this be the same for a 2001 Audi s4?
The video is for a VW A4 (4th generation of the A platform... golf / jetta). Your Audi A4 (B5/B6) is much different... more like this VW Passat (B5):
th-cam.com/video/FOym0WVXSsI/w-d-xo.html
Bruh are those chromed impact sockets or what am I seeing?
Once you use a black impact socket often enough... it's not as black anymore. If you need picture proof... send me your email and I'll send you a picture of my impact socket set.
@@EXOVCDS Yeah my 17 impact is lookin a little white, at least where it's contacted the wheels or been stressed. But nothing close to as silver/chrome as your sockets do. Your sockets look like they have a coating to make them silver/chrome all over.
I just did this today and both tie rods wouldnt come loose has to cut the fuckers the cars still on jack stand and off to get new rods tommorw, hope the spline is easy.enough to reconnect as it's looking a little short .all outside with a shitty cold.and running nose.
Good / better luck tomorrow!
Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS your welcome ,THANKS for the vid bud.
Sorted!
Cheers!
I was waiting to see if once you got that nut removed weather or not you were gonna grab it with your hand and drop it like it's hot.
Next time... will do it just for you! =)
Gnarly.
Thank you for watching!
That’s what she said
Instalation is reverse of removal.
Greetings...
=)
"use your fingers" that's what she said... LOL
She did! LOL
Looks about as easy as birthing a walrus
Much easier! LOL
Pretty good job I guess...
👍👍
Thanks!
A4 ? Audi doesn't have power steering rack there, at all...
Title says VW A4.
4th generation of A platform (golf, jetta).
Audi A4 is B platform. B5, B6, B7 etc.
VW also has a B platform... Passat.
@@EXOVCDS that platform scheme was renamed to PQ34 in 1996. Also Audi A3 and Audi TT. TH-cam is guiding me here badly, on audi a4 ps... that is fine
@@YOARTHFU Closest thing I have for Audi A4 B5 steering rack... is this Passat B5 video.
th-cam.com/video/FOym0WVXSsI/w-d-xo.html
I see the oiler 😃
Lucky I didn't switch to Milwaukee! LOL
Thomas EXOVCDS lol
Let me quest just started leaking😉😂😂😂😂
Ever since... more like it! LOL
looks the same as a passat...
Quite a bit different actually.
I know ...a pain in the AZZ...lol
Lol at scream
:-) :-)
=)
hahaha that's what she said
=)
Thanks for the video. It was easy to swap mine because of this🤘. I got only one problem and I got to ask...since I got everything back in its place, ASR light lid up. I did basic wheelturning etc. to "tell" the car that everything is ok, but after 10 miles driving it came back. It went away whet I shutted down engine, but soon after that it came back and won't go away.
Even vcds couldn't fix the problem cause it's says: "mecanical malfunction in the steering angle sensor" (roughly translated from finnish).
What the heck I did wrong??
Did broke something from the steeringshaft when I took the 13mm bolt of?
Or does the anglesensor just have to be reprogrammed with VAG dealer?
What really are the chances that so called clockspring broke down just now?
And to be more specific, steeringwheel or the axle did not move a one bit. Thats for sure
Wheel alignment is the solution
Not exacly for the uninitiated
I didn't say it was... I record while I'm at work, so that people have an idea of what's involved.