Seriously I don't like many videos on TH-cam. The internet should be filtered from most of what is on it. You on the other hand 👌 you are what I would like to say what america and Americans should be and we're. You're broad knowledge is seriously a goal of mine and I hope to continue to learn from you and your very educational videos
@@sixtyfiveford where did you get those security torxs bits your using in the video? I found a set at my local tractor supply a couple years ago of the 2" long ones but I have wore the t-10 and the t-15 ones out taking apart battery packs and I can't find another set anywhere local to me not even at the tractor supply I bought them from in the first place. So if you could let me know where you got the ones in the video it would be a great help. Thanks.
I appreciate you sir. Thank you for all these videos on tool batteries. I have a pair of pliers for wire wrapping and the 2 jaws are round bar, 1 is 1/4" the other is 3/8", using these pliers im able to grab a corner of those tabs and "roll" the tab off the battery. It works very easily. I scratch the battery end a little, add flux and solder. Super easy.
That's awesome. I've been using it for everything the last week+ and can't believe it took me so long to pick one up. It makes diagnosing things so easy. I could hop under a truck and look at U-Joints, rear end, wheel bearings, etc and instantly see what is failing.
I can't believe I missed this video somehow. I did not see the Makita 21700 kits. I did a video a while back using the M18 21700 packs and soon after the video they were no longer available. I checked the links you have for these and they are no longer available also. I need to get some of these. Thanks for sharing!
I had to open it up twice to add solder traces to the thin nickel strips. The second time I laid some copper wire inside the solder trace as it was still heating up. My Makita angle grinder pulls some major amps with this. I have a 10 cell 21700 DeWalt sitting on my bench as well waiting to be built.
I totally get it. I did the M18 with 10 cells of the Molicel 21700 and it's a good pack and I did spot weld extra strips at the + & - end for sure. BTW I was using the fake 8Ah M18 that I had received from Amazon and I loaded it really heavy with the Super Hawg and it let the smoke out. The - bus strip vanished...😂
This is what i like about this channel..always showing everyone ways to save money and headaches..Bravo 65 Ford and that Ginger is something else....Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
If you want to solder directly to a battery get one of those old Weller Guns with a trigger (like a D560) they get very hot very quickly. This may seem counterintuitive to some, but this is what you want. You want to get hot very fast, solder quickly, and get out of there with the hot end of the gun. Dwelling on a soldering joint is what lets the heat soak into the battery. My $0.02, take it for what it's worth. As a point of interest, the "newer type cells" that are larger, have capacity that is completely and directly proportional to its size =) So dubbing them as better is umm... questionable. With all other things being equal, it's like saying a higher cubic inch engine is better because it outputs more power. Don't get me wrong, larger batteries (because of shape and size) are def a good thing. It gives tools what they need: more power for the size, easier to charge at a higher rate, higher discharge, they fit better into a pack, etc etc.. But there isn't anything special other than the size. Chemistry and composition is not different than other cells. I don't have the exact numbers but all they have to offer is (as an example) 25% more power for a battery that is 25% larger (who'da thunk).
If anyone is curious as to the details of why this works from an Electrical Engineering perspective you will want to read this: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximum_power_transfer_theorem#:~:text=In%20electrical%20engineering%2C%20the%20maximum,viewed%20from%20its%20output%20terminals. Basically by changing the battery pack he's getting closer to matching the internal resistance of the battery pack to the load/angle grinder. Another great video, Moe!
I don’t use my M18 HO batteries on adapters anymore. They will be fine for 5-10 minutes but then go down to one bar and when I put them on the charger they show full charge after a couple minutes again. I think the chip in the HOs don’t like not communicating with the tool. This is on 12 and 8ah packs. I have a ton of metabo HPT 8.0 and bosch core batteries that are fine all day connected to adapters.
Yes, the 6.0 HO does this on the Makita instantly but I just keep running it and charge it when I need. The Makita will shut off automatically when the pack gets too low. However I can feel it and charge it before cutoff. Or I just randomly charge it as it is healthier to charge a lithium more often than to go from full to empty.
It's almost criminal how the manufactures make you buy their brand of battery instead of standardizing the battery packs. I think Harbor Freight might be the worst offender with different battery packs for all their "brands". As always, a great video with super useful content and a refreshing attitude towards accepting managed risk!
Thanks. The issue with HF is they make nothing themselves and are only a distributor of China goods. I have personally been to China and seen the distributors. HF essentially just picks through a catalog and orders tools and the brand is printed on them. You will find the same tool with other brand names/colors of plastic elsewhere for less. That's why they have multiple battery platforms as it is essentially the same as carrying Makita, Dewalt, etc at the Home Depot. Except there is back end brand support for Makita, Dewalt etc where the HF is the front for the fake brands and have no support. ... Sorry little rant.... Have a good one.
@@sixtyfiveford I agree...and sadly I have to admit that I own a lot of their stuff. When your a young family man and money is SUPER tight what do you do. I think this battery issue is a glaring indicator of how the mind set has shifted in the last, say, century. Imagine if the standards for AAA, AA, C, D hadn't been established back when battery powered products first emerged. I think an opportunity exist here for a manufacturer to come along with standardized battery packs for ALL of their products: Tools, handheld vacuums, boomboxes, kitchen appliances etc.
You may need to do a longer, in depth video on this. For us Lehman. I do plumbing, electrical is my nemesis. I'm not illiterate but it takes me a bit to get it
Electricity is just wire plumbing. Positive is Hot water and Negative is Cold... Just kidding. I have touched more in depth on other videos and this was just a spur of the moment video I wanted to keep short.
Really good job and good explanation! I’ve never find here in Germany adapters for different accupacks. I bought in the past for a old Makita machine a accu with double amps and the machine start to smoke after heavy using 😅 thanks for your video and greetings to Ginger 🐶
If there was a way to balance out the audio level, this channel would be perfect! That said, you are awesome for the innovative ways you go about problem solving. Thanks for that & showing how smart Ginger is!
I know. 6-8 videos ago I got a new camera and it hates my Rode mic. I have to add gain to all clips as I edit. I do it just with the computer speaker and by ear but I should probably do it with headphones. That's what I assume you're listening with?
Just be careful they are only designed to handle so much. Over working a cheap tool or even a good tool will kill the tool. Having more power will be great and longer use if not pushed to its limits. Pushing a battery drill to hard will get it to hot no matter the battery being used easily half life-ing the tool.
Good video and Great information . You convinced me to tear into my Kobalt 40 Volt Max mower batteries. I want to combine 2 - 2 amp hour batteries to make 1 - 4 amp hour battery as they are much more powerful and run longer. You done good training you dog too! Man's best friend is so true.
Hi Moe , Thanks For Another Great Video . I made my own Adapter from A Craftsman C3 light To Bauer Battery From Their Cheap Bauer light $13 ! Thanks Again ! Ginger Is Cool !
Ya if you have some like that it's an option but I think you generally need a spot welder to do it right I have replaced a single cell before soldering but the case generally doesn't go back together well and using drill batteries it's probably a good idea because because you have to know what you are looking at but I was thinking if you have specific loads like the operable lights you could get some like 3400mah cells and do a pretty small relatively 2 row or 3 row that is like 6.8ah or 10.2ah and depending on the cells you could use them with some other tools but still
Great video, but I could never solder to a battery and I don't own a spot welder. What happens if you have a drill that uses ni-cads? That can't be charged in a charger made for nm hydride battery's
I left the original tabs on so technically I was only soldering onto the tabs and not directly to the cells themselves. Manufacturers are trying to kill off anything nicad or nickel metal hydride by not supporting them anymore. I have charged nicad many times with nimh chargers many times. As far as I understand it nicad don't really care but you can't do nimh in a nicad charger
Huge heads up make sure the milliamp hours are somewhat the same as well as the internal resistance of each battery is somewhat the same otherwise you will run into huge problems
I've been using it for so many things engine related. I have had a few of the handheld temperature guns but you can't really see what it's reading and they are so inaccurate. This give me an immediate comparison. I actually ran more tests and saw that the new battery pack I built was heating up the positive lead. So I added a solder trace to thicken it up(less resistance=less heat) and no more heat build up. Something I would have never noticed with a temp gun.
Another fantastic video thank you.. there’s no way I could do what you just did.. i’ll have to find your other videos are the adapters I have Dewalt only but like to get a ratchet.. So I should be right in the six h the two battery on my tools but can run the two battery m h ..
If 21700 cells become popular enough, maybe the price of good quality 18650s will drop significantly. 18650s where hard to get at a reasonable price not that long ago because of their heavy use in EV car batteries. So, everybody ramped up production. Now the 21700s are the new 'hottness'. I predict some great deals on 18650 cells in the near future. Food for thought.
Shit... I hope you see this and respond brother, I am in a bind with my battery pack rebuild.. I am trying to replace the cells in my Bosch battery, and had a Ridgid pack that I didn't use much, so i stripped the cells out. But when i took the cells out of the Bosch, they were Samsung 13Q, but the Ridgid cells were Samsung 20R. Can i still use these 20R cells in the Bosch pack? It only gets used to run my Bosch work radio
That's just fine. If you are replacing all 5 cells you won't have any issues. The 20R are 2000mah 22amp max discharge where the 13Q are 1300mah 15amp max discharge. What this means is the pack will last nearly twice as long with the 20r cells and will be more powerful in tools. The radio doesn't care about the power but it will last way longer on a charge.
Can you help me with the problem i have when fixing/ trying to fix my battery backs, i sometimes/most of the time can never get the solder to take the the battery, i don't know why or what I'm doing wrong?
I have at least 2 dozen rolls of electrical solder from different brand and decades and they all work the same in my opinion. They are all going to be 60/40 tin/lead solder. For electrical work I use the Kester 951 no clean flux. A small bottle lasts forever amzn.to/3bfvukk
Imagine the number of 18650's going into landfill because of 1 or 2 bad cells in a pack or people changing brands and having no more use for an old battery pack. This is such a great solution!!! Another solution would be for the powers that be legislating for standardised battery packs, swappable cells and expansion packs, it would save millions of batteries going to landfill and reduce the need for multiple housings and the overall cost to the environment. But that would hit the power tool companies profit margins so we can't have that. Great video!!!
I can't afford to do that. I'm a disabled veteran and I'm on a set budget. I'll have to stick with what I have for now. I owe to much money to do anything. Until I pay down everything, I have to just use the harbor freight tools and my older tools that I've had for over 25+ years. They haven't let me down.
Is it true that Ryobi has the BMS in the TOOL and not the battery? Meaning that using a Ryobi battery in a different brand could risk over-discharging the battery?
I've been kicking around that idea for my camera, it has a loose connection or something erratic going on, says it is eating batteries. Anyhow, I'll fix its wagon someday and it will run all day even if the batteries are half the size of the camera. Thanks for the show and tell, after the father-in-law passed I've got lots of different battery tools to contend with, the tiny saw is funny to me.
You're going to make me rant..... Don't take anything I say as a personal attack. Years ago I decided to just buy any and all cordless tool brands that interested me. I do the same with my hand tools (like virtually everyone else does). I have used, abused and sold off what I didn't like and feel it's foolish to think one brand makes the best everything tool. Now too your question, honestly I think Milwaukee is pure Chinese Junk bogusly operating under an old strong dead US brand. Nothing but issues, crib deaths, batteries falling apart, overheating, random errors requiring battery to be removed/reinstalled etc. They do have a fantastic warranty, probably the best in the industry and I used the death out of it to the point of feeling guilty about expecting a tool to be perfect out of the box. Problem is I want a tool to last a long time and their warranty doesn't give you that. I do think their 12volt tools are better than their m18 and "did" have some of the best 12v tools on the market. The biggest issue with the M12 is their 1990's antiquated battery design. I kept telling myself I have to missing something as so many guy are fanatic about Milwaukee. But then it dawned on me; its the Snap-On aka Tool Truck effect where guys that overspend feel like they have to constantly justify their overpaying to help themselves deal with being tool poor. We've all done it, telling our buddy, wife, random dog that we need that overpriced tool to be the best we can be. Why in the 18-20v world did I chose the others? First I do everything from metal working, mechanics, woodwork, electrical, plumbing or even framing a house. Makita as a whole is just so smooth, quiet and puts no fatigue into the operator. I bought the top of the line 1/4 impact from Makita and then Milwaukee. Thought for sure I was going to keep the Milwaukee as it had more power. Nope, it just sucked to use compared to the Makita. Yes, I will be sad the day I have to drive a 6" 3/8" lag into a log and I have to spent 1.5 extra seconds with the Makita, but it's worth it. It's funny we watch all these Head to Head challenges and virtually no ones says, this was quicker but feels like crap in the hand. Dewalt makes a few tools that are just gold that no one can touch. Their multitool and jig saw is leagues above the competition. I refuse to buy Ridgid as they have nothing impressive and are just parts bin Milwaukee at a premium price. Ryobi.... garbage but cheap garbage under the Milwaukee brand so cost to junk ration is in your favor. I have bought a few things you can't get from anywhere else(cordless soldering station in this video).
I love this rant. As a home gamer. I love the green Ryobi stuff. Good enough. And if my kid wants to borrow it. And keep it. I’m good. It’s like the concept of driving an older car. It’s the freedom of not worrying about a scratch or ding. That’s why Ryobi for me. But yea. Milwaukee m12 fuel drill and impact drivers because. Well. Just because. 😂👋
I don't recommend. It could shorten the life of the cells very much by mixing old and new batteries not just voltage mismatch. The best way would be to buy new cells with same internal resistance. Cell matching is a thing.
It doesn't matter in parallel. In series, yes absolutely but that wasn't touched. In parallel you could have a 5s with 2500mah and a 5s with 2000mah and join them for 4500mah 5s 2p . The 2500 would ever so slightly charge the 2000mah during down times. On another note cell matching is also only good for maybe the first dozen charges and you will have 1 always start to drift away. Generally it is the Neg side as it gets hotter than the rest.
Makita should not brick the f__en circuit boards. I find Dell & Lenovo also brick their boards- WTF Vintage lithium laptop batteries never had that problem, just like all the old Ni/Cd tools never bricked their battery packs. Bricking batteries is just another example why there is a "Right to Repair" revolt going on.
I agree to an extent. However the Makita is just protecting the other cells from a fire or damage to the tool. It only bricks when a cell completely fails 4-5 times. By that time you can really notice a severe drop in performance of the battery pack. They really don't expect anyone to repair a battery pack like I do. I have saved battery packs that were discarded because people knew they were bad and didn't continually try to charge them. Put a few new cells in and it's good to go. I'm sure there is a reset chip or similar. However, no one seams to care enough to research it.
It keeps getting better! Great content
as always
Glad you enjoy it!
@@sixtyfiveford m
Seriously I don't like many videos on TH-cam. The internet should be filtered from most of what is on it. You on the other hand 👌 you are what I would like to say what america and Americans should be and we're. You're broad knowledge is seriously a goal of mine and I hope to continue to learn from you and your very educational videos
Wow, thank you!
I need to rewatch you videos on saving/ recycling battery packs by replacing the 1 or 2 bad cells with good cells from another dead pack.
Wondering what type of cell pack for a Black & Decker?
20v Black and Decker is going to all be 18650 lithium cells.
@@sixtyfiveford where did you get those security torxs bits your using in the video? I found a set at my local tractor supply a couple years ago of the 2" long ones but I have wore the t-10 and the t-15 ones out taking apart battery packs and I can't find another set anywhere local to me not even at the tractor supply I bought them from in the first place. So if you could let me know where you got the ones in the video it would be a great help. Thanks.
@@Dcelrod I have a link in the video description for the exact ones I use.
I appreciate you sir. Thank you for all these videos on tool batteries.
I have a pair of pliers for wire wrapping and the 2 jaws are round bar, 1 is 1/4" the other is 3/8", using these pliers im able to grab a corner of those tabs and "roll" the tab off the battery. It works very easily. I scratch the battery end a little, add flux and solder. Super easy.
Great video. I’ve used a thermal imaging camera to find failed bearings.
That's awesome. I've been using it for everything the last week+ and can't believe it took me so long to pick one up. It makes diagnosing things so easy. I could hop under a truck and look at U-Joints, rear end, wheel bearings, etc and instantly see what is failing.
@@sixtyfiveford avoiding a catastrophe is well worth the cost of the camera.
I can't believe I missed this video somehow. I did not see the Makita 21700 kits. I did a video a while back using the M18 21700 packs and soon after the video they were no longer available. I checked the links you have for these and they are no longer available also. I need to get some of these. Thanks for sharing!
I had to open it up twice to add solder traces to the thin nickel strips. The second time I laid some copper wire inside the solder trace as it was still heating up. My Makita angle grinder pulls some major amps with this. I have a 10 cell 21700 DeWalt sitting on my bench as well waiting to be built.
I totally get it. I did the M18 with 10 cells of the Molicel 21700 and it's a good pack and I did spot weld extra strips at the + & - end for sure.
BTW
I was using the fake 8Ah M18 that I had received from Amazon and I loaded it really heavy with the Super Hawg and it let the smoke out. The - bus strip vanished...😂
Love the battery pack vids, Moe! Thanks for another informative vid. You've got one of the best channels, keep the great content coming!
Glad you like them!
This is what i like about this channel..always showing everyone ways to save money and headaches..Bravo 65 Ford and that Ginger is something else....Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Hey Thanks.
If you want to solder directly to a battery get one of those old Weller Guns with a trigger (like a D560) they get very hot very quickly. This may seem counterintuitive to some, but this is what you want. You want to get hot very fast, solder quickly, and get out of there with the hot end of the gun. Dwelling on a soldering joint is what lets the heat soak into the battery. My $0.02, take it for what it's worth.
As a point of interest, the "newer type cells" that are larger, have capacity that is completely and directly proportional to its size =) So dubbing them as better is umm... questionable. With all other things being equal, it's like saying a higher cubic inch engine is better because it outputs more power. Don't get me wrong, larger batteries (because of shape and size) are def a good thing. It gives tools what they need: more power for the size, easier to charge at a higher rate, higher discharge, they fit better into a pack, etc etc.. But there isn't anything special other than the size. Chemistry and composition is not different than other cells. I don't have the exact numbers but all they have to offer is (as an example) 25% more power for a battery that is 25% larger (who'da thunk).
Wow I was told they were unable to rebuild
So I chunked two packs about year half ago!! I’m saving and sharing this vid for future reference
Great vid
Awesome thank you!
Didn't know you can buy those packs, now all I have to do is find some 21700 cels. Thanks for the information. 👍 Ginger sure is a cutie 😍.
I need to come up with some more challengers for her. She never wants to stop learning.
Thanks for another helpful DIY video ! Love to Ginger !
When you do these kind of videos i feel like you’re inside my head. Cool video.
Awesome
If anyone is curious as to the details of why this works from an Electrical Engineering perspective you will want to read this: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximum_power_transfer_theorem#:~:text=In%20electrical%20engineering%2C%20the%20maximum,viewed%20from%20its%20output%20terminals.
Basically by changing the battery pack he's getting closer to matching the internal resistance of the battery pack to the load/angle grinder.
Another great video, Moe!
I don’t use my M18 HO batteries on adapters anymore. They will be fine for 5-10 minutes but then go down to one bar and when I put them on the charger they show full charge after a couple minutes again. I think the chip in the HOs don’t like not communicating with the tool. This is on 12 and 8ah packs. I have a ton of metabo HPT 8.0 and bosch core batteries that are fine all day connected to adapters.
Yes, the 6.0 HO does this on the Makita instantly but I just keep running it and charge it when I need. The Makita will shut off automatically when the pack gets too low. However I can feel it and charge it before cutoff. Or I just randomly charge it as it is healthier to charge a lithium more often than to go from full to empty.
It's almost criminal how the manufactures make you buy their brand of battery instead of standardizing the battery packs. I think Harbor Freight might be the worst offender with different battery packs for all their "brands". As always, a great video with super useful content and a refreshing attitude towards accepting managed risk!
Thanks. The issue with HF is they make nothing themselves and are only a distributor of China goods. I have personally been to China and seen the distributors. HF essentially just picks through a catalog and orders tools and the brand is printed on them. You will find the same tool with other brand names/colors of plastic elsewhere for less. That's why they have multiple battery platforms as it is essentially the same as carrying Makita, Dewalt, etc at the Home Depot. Except there is back end brand support for Makita, Dewalt etc where the HF is the front for the fake brands and have no support. ... Sorry little rant.... Have a good one.
@@sixtyfiveford I agree...and sadly I have to admit that I own a lot of their stuff. When your a young family man and money is SUPER tight what do you do.
I think this battery issue is a glaring indicator of how the mind set has shifted in the last, say, century. Imagine if the standards for AAA, AA, C, D hadn't been established back when battery powered products first emerged. I think an opportunity exist here for a manufacturer to come along with standardized battery packs for ALL of their products: Tools, handheld vacuums, boomboxes, kitchen appliances etc.
nepotism
You may need to do a longer, in depth video on this. For us Lehman. I do plumbing, electrical is my nemesis. I'm not illiterate but it takes me a bit to get it
Electricity is just wire plumbing. Positive is Hot water and Negative is Cold... Just kidding. I have touched more in depth on other videos and this was just a spur of the moment video I wanted to keep short.
Really good job and good explanation! I’ve never find here in Germany adapters for different accupacks. I bought in the past for a old Makita machine a accu with double amps and the machine start to smoke after heavy using 😅 thanks for your video and greetings to Ginger 🐶
Thank you Mo for for another video that shows me how to make my tools work better and stronger.
Thanks.
If there was a way to balance out the audio level, this channel would be perfect!
That said, you are awesome for the innovative ways you go about problem solving. Thanks for that & showing how smart Ginger is!
I know. 6-8 videos ago I got a new camera and it hates my Rode mic. I have to add gain to all clips as I edit. I do it just with the computer speaker and by ear but I should probably do it with headphones. That's what I assume you're listening with?
Great video and superb info. Really enjoy your channel. Love seeing Ginger in each of your videos! She is a real star!!
That $15 drill I got from Harbor Freight is about to get a twin turbo big block under the hood.
Oh Yeah!
Just be careful they are only designed to handle so much. Over working a cheap tool or even a good tool will kill the tool. Having more power will be great and longer use if not pushed to its limits. Pushing a battery drill to hard will get it to hot no matter the battery being used easily half life-ing the tool.
Good video and Great information . You convinced me to tear into my Kobalt 40 Volt Max mower batteries. I want to combine 2 - 2 amp hour batteries to make 1 - 4 amp hour battery as they are much more powerful and run longer. You done good training you dog too! Man's best friend is so true.
Hi Moe , Thanks For Another Great Video . I made my own Adapter from A Craftsman C3 light To Bauer Battery From Their Cheap Bauer light $13 ! Thanks Again ! Ginger Is Cool !
Very cool!
I did not get into battery power, yet. This is a great option for when I do.
Stay well, Joe Z
Sweet
Love the thermal imaging camera so fun to play with
You're one of the reasons I want one. I've seen you play with your thermal camera so many times.
Ya if you have some like that it's an option but I think you generally need a spot welder to do it right I have replaced a single cell before soldering but the case generally doesn't go back together well and using drill batteries it's probably a good idea because because you have to know what you are looking at but I was thinking if you have specific loads like the operable lights you could get some like 3400mah cells and do a pretty small relatively 2 row or 3 row that is like 6.8ah or 10.2ah and depending on the cells you could use them with some other tools but still
My dog, Ember, likes seeing even the thermal image of Ginger!
Great video, but I could never solder to a battery and I don't own a spot welder.
What happens if you have a drill that uses ni-cads?
That can't be charged in a charger made for nm hydride battery's
I left the original tabs on so technically I was only soldering onto the tabs and not directly to the cells themselves. Manufacturers are trying to kill off anything nicad or nickel metal hydride by not supporting them anymore. I have charged nicad many times with nimh chargers many times. As far as I understand it nicad don't really care but you can't do nimh in a nicad charger
@@sixtyfiveford Thanks Moe for that information
Huge heads up make sure the milliamp hours are somewhat the same as well as the internal resistance of each battery is somewhat the same otherwise you will run into huge problems
Geez, You sold me on the thermal imaging. Very Cool. Great Video!
I've been using it for so many things engine related. I have had a few of the handheld temperature guns but you can't really see what it's reading and they are so inaccurate. This give me an immediate comparison. I actually ran more tests and saw that the new battery pack I built was heating up the positive lead. So I added a solder trace to thicken it up(less resistance=less heat) and no more heat build up. Something I would have never noticed with a temp gun.
I'm just waiting for Ginger to leave home and when she ends up here I'll just get her to make stuff or at least give classes. BLESSINGS!
Great info. I see a couple of the battery cases take a month to deliver, I guess they are shipped directly from China.
Yeah, I ordered this at least a month ago.
thank you for taking the time to make all these wonderful videos 👍❤️🙏
Thanks, I'm glad you like them.
Another fantastic video thank you.. there’s no way I could do what you just did.. i’ll have to find your other videos are the adapters I have Dewalt only but like to get a ratchet..
So I should be right in the six h the two battery on my tools but can run the two battery m h ..
Dewalt just came out with their new ratchet in 12v and 20v and it looks impressive
If 21700 cells become popular enough, maybe the price of good quality 18650s will drop significantly. 18650s where hard to get at a reasonable price not that long ago because of their heavy use in EV car batteries. So, everybody ramped up production. Now the 21700s are the new 'hottness'. I predict some great deals on 18650 cells in the near future.
Food for thought.
I hope so.
You shouldn't worry about get a little jolt if your wearing your welding flip-flops. Thanks for the upload.
Shit... I hope you see this and respond brother, I am in a bind with my battery pack rebuild..
I am trying to replace the cells in my Bosch battery, and had a Ridgid pack that I didn't use much, so i stripped the cells out. But when i took the cells out of the Bosch, they were Samsung 13Q, but the Ridgid cells were Samsung 20R. Can i still use these 20R cells in the Bosch pack? It only gets used to run my Bosch work radio
That's just fine. If you are replacing all 5 cells you won't have any issues. The 20R are 2000mah 22amp max discharge where the 13Q are 1300mah 15amp max discharge. What this means is the pack will last nearly twice as long with the 20r cells and will be more powerful in tools. The radio doesn't care about the power but it will last way longer on a charge.
@@sixtyfiveford omg.... ty for your quick response brother 🙏
Awesome thermal imaging comparison!
Hey Art! Just playing around with a new toy.
@@sixtyfiveford That's what SHE said 😉
The video got me amped up!
LOL.
This is great, and very important to know. Wonder if you could Jorde LaForge up Ginger with thermal imaging tech, superer dog! maybe
Sounds fun. I need to Jorde LaForge myself.
Kind of regret throwing out my old batteries recently 😳
Can you help me with the problem i have when fixing/ trying to fix my battery backs, i sometimes/most of the time can never get the solder to take the the battery, i don't know why or what I'm doing wrong?
Sand the connections/ wherever you want the solder to be and the solder will flow out.
you need strong flux and good heat in the iron for solder to stick
Thanks all will try this next time i need to do a battery job
This reminds that I need to finish building the battery packs for my cars
What type of sodder/solider/soldier and flux do you use.
I have at least 2 dozen rolls of electrical solder from different brand and decades and they all work the same in my opinion. They are all going to be 60/40 tin/lead solder. For electrical work I use the Kester 951 no clean flux. A small bottle lasts forever amzn.to/3bfvukk
Imagine the number of 18650's going into landfill because of 1 or 2 bad cells in a pack or people changing brands and having no more use for an old battery pack. This is such a great solution!!!
Another solution would be for the powers that be legislating for standardised battery packs, swappable cells and expansion packs, it would save millions of batteries going to landfill and reduce the need for multiple housings and the overall cost to the environment. But that would hit the power tool companies profit margins so we can't have that.
Great video!!!
Great video and how to, very useful, thank you Moe!
Hey Thanks.
@@sixtyfiveford, Only the best from you, you're one of my all-time favorite TH-camrs. Thank you for everything, see you in the next video!
I have my makita charger playing that same tune
Ginger always puts out great videos. Moe's not too shabby either.😉
You got that right!
I can't afford to do that. I'm a disabled veteran and I'm on a set budget. I'll have to stick with what I have for now. I owe to much money to do anything. Until I pay down everything, I have to just use the harbor freight tools and my older tools that I've had for over 25+ years. They haven't let me down.
Is it true that Ryobi has the BMS in the TOOL and not the battery? Meaning that using a Ryobi battery in a different brand could risk over-discharging the battery?
Opposite, Ryobi is the only one with the BMS / low voltage cut off in the battery itself. The other brands have the low voltage cut off in the tool.
@@sixtyfiveford thank you for the clarification!
I've been kicking around that idea for my camera, it has a loose connection or something erratic going on, says it is eating batteries. Anyhow, I'll fix its wagon someday and it will run all day even if the batteries are half the size of the camera. Thanks for the show and tell, after the father-in-law passed I've got lots of different battery tools to contend with, the tiny saw is funny to me.
Thanks.
Another great video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I have Ryobi and Ridgid tools. I bought a Ridgid to Ryobi battery adapter and problem solved. I do have the chargers
Awesome.
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼
The thermal cam footage of the sparks heating up your legs... I kept waiting for you to start complaining about it, but we didn't even get an ouch!
I think the camera makes it look way hotter than it is.
Wow! 👍
Great Vid!
Thank You :)
What did you do with your ear muffs?
Wore them so they should be pushing 98.6F
I mean in the end I can see you glued something in them is it a bluetooth speaker or something else?
it would be better if you cut and thermal image 1 at a time and then you can use 2 hands to hold them.
I just need to grow 2 more arms.
👍🏽
Gotta send to project farm let him test it
Whoa. Cool! Sub earned.
Nice work! Ginger rulz!
Thanks!
So, you no longer use Milwaukee? Huh. I no longer use DeWalt. Makes me wonder what YOUR reasoning could be... Great video though. Thank you.
You're going to make me rant..... Don't take anything I say as a personal attack. Years ago I decided to just buy any and all cordless tool brands that interested me. I do the same with my hand tools (like virtually everyone else does). I have used, abused and sold off what I didn't like and feel it's foolish to think one brand makes the best everything tool. Now too your question, honestly I think Milwaukee is pure Chinese Junk bogusly operating under an old strong dead US brand. Nothing but issues, crib deaths, batteries falling apart, overheating, random errors requiring battery to be removed/reinstalled etc. They do have a fantastic warranty, probably the best in the industry and I used the death out of it to the point of feeling guilty about expecting a tool to be perfect out of the box. Problem is I want a tool to last a long time and their warranty doesn't give you that. I do think their 12volt tools are better than their m18 and "did" have some of the best 12v tools on the market. The biggest issue with the M12 is their 1990's antiquated battery design.
I kept telling myself I have to missing something as so many guy are fanatic about Milwaukee. But then it dawned on me; its the Snap-On aka Tool Truck effect where guys that overspend feel like they have to constantly justify their overpaying to help themselves deal with being tool poor. We've all done it, telling our buddy, wife, random dog that we need that overpriced tool to be the best we can be.
Why in the 18-20v world did I chose the others? First I do everything from metal working, mechanics, woodwork, electrical, plumbing or even framing a house. Makita as a whole is just so smooth, quiet and puts no fatigue into the operator. I bought the top of the line 1/4 impact from Makita and then Milwaukee. Thought for sure I was going to keep the Milwaukee as it had more power. Nope, it just sucked to use compared to the Makita. Yes, I will be sad the day I have to drive a 6" 3/8" lag into a log and I have to spent 1.5 extra seconds with the Makita, but it's worth it. It's funny we watch all these Head to Head challenges and virtually no ones says, this was quicker but feels like crap in the hand. Dewalt makes a few tools that are just gold that no one can touch. Their multitool and jig saw is leagues above the competition. I refuse to buy Ridgid as they have nothing impressive and are just parts bin Milwaukee at a premium price. Ryobi.... garbage but cheap garbage under the Milwaukee brand so cost to junk ration is in your favor. I have bought a few things you can't get from anywhere else(cordless soldering station in this video).
I love this rant. As a home gamer. I love the green Ryobi stuff. Good enough. And if my kid wants to borrow it. And keep it. I’m good. It’s like the concept of driving an older car. It’s the freedom of not worrying about a scratch or ding. That’s why Ryobi for me. But yea. Milwaukee m12 fuel drill and impact drivers because. Well. Just because. 😂👋
You are so familiar with this technology that I, a novice, lose you in your commentary. Oh well.
Cool
Hey thanks
I don't recommend. It could shorten the life of the cells very much by mixing old and new batteries not just voltage mismatch. The best way would be to buy new cells with same internal resistance. Cell matching is a thing.
It doesn't matter in parallel. In series, yes absolutely but that wasn't touched. In parallel you could have a 5s with 2500mah and a 5s with 2000mah and join them for 4500mah 5s 2p . The 2500 would ever so slightly charge the 2000mah during down times. On another note cell matching is also only good for maybe the first dozen charges and you will have 1 always start to drift away. Generally it is the Neg side as it gets hotter than the rest.
Nice
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👍👍👍
Two fisted grinder 😂😂
Be careful if you do this!
Makita should not brick the f__en circuit boards. I find Dell & Lenovo also brick their boards- WTF Vintage lithium laptop batteries never had that problem, just like all the old Ni/Cd tools never bricked their battery packs. Bricking batteries is just another example why there is a "Right to Repair" revolt going on.
I agree to an extent. However the Makita is just protecting the other cells from a fire or damage to the tool. It only bricks when a cell completely fails 4-5 times. By that time you can really notice a severe drop in performance of the battery pack. They really don't expect anyone to repair a battery pack like I do. I have saved battery packs that were discarded because people knew they were bad and didn't continually try to charge them. Put a few new cells in and it's good to go. I'm sure there is a reset chip or similar. However, no one seams to care enough to research it.
Jay the Florida pool pump motor repair guy. When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info 2 know 👨🔧sixtyfiveford