RC ADVENTURES - Project: "SPiNTiRE" - PAiNT PT 1 - 1940 KR11 Research, & Supplies - King Kong CA10
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- I show you how I get to my RC ideas, and how my process works for a project like "SpinTire". In all of my years in making TH-cam films I have never gone into any type of prep video, or "readiness" film for our viewers. As this style of paint job (extreme detail) is not brand new to me, I am not easily intimidated by the task - but at the same time - I am certainly no pro at painting. To be quite honest, I don't consider myself to be a great painter, and usually dread this part of any RC build. BUT! With enough research and practice, anything can be achieved, and I think I'm ready for this next step in my own RC ADVENTURE!
I have done the aged look before.. a weathering. Some viewers may remember my film from a few years back for the Toyota Hilux "TOP GEAR" bit.ly/2EMZ26w (this will help you as well!)
This is my first "barn truck".. rather, a backwoods 2WD work truck.
I hope you find this video helpful, and it gives you some of your own ideas for weathering an RC vehicle.
I'm going to build a 2WD OLD SKOOL TRUCK! Holy smokes, lately I have been hooked playing "Mud Runner - a Spintires Game" on my XBox One X. It is one of my favourite simulation "off road trucking" games. The physics are great, and so is the deep, deep mud. The game also gives you the ability to choose older style of lumber trucks - such as ones similar to this KiNG KONG RC "CA10" Tractor Truck Kit!
"Asia Tees", (an online RC distributor), suggested I had a look at this kit. This is a the scale replica of the American International KR-11 heavy duty tractor from the 1940s. I am so excited for this build, becuase its completely unique and a new challenge for me!
Here is some info from an article, linked below:
"Background:
The 1:1 CA10 was originally based on the American International KR-11 which was supplied in great numbers to the Soviet Union during WOII. It is a scale replica of the KR-11 and subsequent versions that were designed based on the original KR-11. They were used as tractor trucks and used in construction in the 1940s. It has close resemblance of the Dodge WWII Powerwagon. The subsequent CA10 was primarily a military truck and they were also produced into various civilian variants, including ambulance buses, fuel trucks , water tankers , dump trucks, lift trucks, construction vehicles, and fire trucks."
ARTiCLE & WHERE to GET THiS KiT/TRUCK: www.asiatees.c....
(There are Two Versions distributed from Asia Tees, see the end of the article in the Link, above)
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Researching, Planning, Understanding, Filming, Preparing, Execution, Mistakes, Learning, Repairing, Speaking, Laughing, Smiling, Having a Great Time, Editing, Uploading, and we should have a pretty good looking truck! I'm crossing my fingers on this one :) My mind feels "in the game"...
RCSparks Studio what’s up with the quality of this video? And if you could message me in private id appreciate it
RCSparks Studio cant wait to see your total scale truck. Its going to be awesome. O just thought does rc 4 wheel drive or another company make a old school flathead inline straight 6 motor cover to put over the teiken 55 turn to make it totally complete when you open up the hood on that truck. I hope you can see it in your imagination too.
make the rims,fuel tank,bed floor,frame,and spots on the body have rust. it would be cool if you put stain on the wood sides and also made it look like a military truck a farmer turned in to a work truck
Mine and ur birthday are coming up RCSparks Studio Sunday the 25th
You may want to look at some products by a company called AK Interactive they are incredible for weathering. Especially look at there rust streaks and chipping fluids. Also the spice Cinnamon mixed with PVA is a great way of rust texture to things
I don't know what other people think, but honestly i've been loving this kind of content. More scale focused builds. Like I constantly check TH-cam to see if a new video has been posted. I don't wait for notifications!
Super!! keep the good work brother 👍 ✌️ 👊 🤙 big like
Hey man, thank you so much! that is very kind of you.. love the support!
Medic you kick ass and make RC even better... M
I have a hard bodied land rover d110 pickup I primed everything first then I sprayed it olive drab 2 then I done flat red in the cab just little bits on the dash steering wheel and gear leavers and seat brackets to make the inside pop a bit and I sprayed the roof flat black I used all tamiya paint to weather it I just got vallejo wash and pigments which I have just got to weather up my landy hope this helps
You should look into Rub & Buff wax. They make a lot of metallic finishes that give a look of what your looking for. I’m sure there are some TH-cam vids on it
For the most part I have only ever really used paints from the hardware stores and never really had any issues. I actually prefer it over the high cost hobby shop paints.
This is why I keep a bunch of old crap kits around to practice on. Much better to screw up there than on the final piece. Waste not, want not and all that silliness.
Hey man you got me into RCs I Jus got a e-revo & a senton4by4 & a night crawler thanks for inspiring me to get into this
maybe after this rc project you can build some rc truck. like scania or volvo. i loved to see this kind of project
You may want to call for a psychic. When I was at work I had my phone in my pocket when it suddenly started to play this episode. TH-cam was not open on my phone because I never watch TH-cam on the phone. I think that your studio is haunted. Unless it's my phone that's haunted. 👻
BAHAH!! TOO COOL! Ready, camera.... ROLL CAMERA! Haha Wow.. !
Their Triple Diamond International Harvester trucks
The way I would paint it is how they did it back in the day that truck was painted in the old days . Do the finders black and the cab Forest green.i think it would look good
You should definitely do a rust/petina paint scheme, to give the build a sense of realism.
I'm dying for you to post a video on the paint Medic!
I like the color choices you picked out. It Will turn out amazing you just have to take your time doing it. The only one who you have to impress is your self. Another amazing video you did 💪👍👍
After all of these years of being in the hobby, I know it will turn out amazing! :) Thanks bro.. I appreciate your support!
Have you taken yours for a drive yet? Mine came in and my entire afternoon, evening, and well into the morning was spent crunching on it.
*It did a donut.*
Pitch black outside, so I couldn't really open 'er up any, but I did get it to do some legit donuts. Gonna need a castle link I think, though. My ESC doesn't seem to think the motor can truly start from zero, it should. Doesn't. Min speed is somewhere between a walk and a jog, and it doesn't even try to modulate below that. But it's a boatload of fun just the same~
Also seems like you're going for a 'mount above the pumpkin' solution for the battery. Will be interesting to see how many mAh you can stuff in there. I'm pressing forward with my twinned saddle pack arrangement, didn't mount the spare(I'll fab up another mount for it later. I also up stuffing the electronics under the seat. I think this is where King Kong RC expects the battery to go....GLHF getting anything more than a sub-normal-sized 1200-1800mAh 2s pack in there...given my ESC took too much room up to put it all in the gas tank I just shoved it all under the seat instead. Drilled three holes in the floorpan for the three motor wires, ran the steering servo line and the main battery line in through the larger of the pre-molded-in holes, with the ESC upside down and right in front of that gap so it can get a little ventilation. For now, I've got the power switch in the passenger floorboard, don't know if I'll leave it there or not yet. Fits in pretty nice!
I'm not surprise yours has a twist. Mine ended up sitting level, but the frame rails are tweaked...pretty bad on mine, actually, I had to manhandle 'em to get a lot of the crossmembers in and several bolt holes never lined up at all. Oh well. Parts are in and they're secure enough that it isn't gonna come apart. I also had to enlarge the hole on one end of the rearmost driveshaft with my dremel to get it to slip onto the carrier bearing there.
Perhaps this may have been a bit more complex of a kit than I should have taken on as my first ever RC kit, but hey, thing runs and drives first try! I'm now at a more cosmetic stage. Gotta get the bed and cab built before I fab up my battery mounts, so for now any running I do will be with one pack either in the footwells or loosely taped down in the bed.
And the turning radius. Holy moly will this thing pull a hairpin. I'd almost say itt'l turn 360 degrees inside just two times its own length. I've had 1/18th RCs that couldn't cut a curve that sharp. This thing's gonna be able to pick lines with ease!
Mine also had the toe-in, but I opted to leave it as-is. Given mine'll be zipping along fairly quickly, having that toe-in will be a massive help for keeping it pointed in the right direction. I do wish I could fine tune the length of the link between the servo and the knuckle, though, as 'straight ahead' ended up between two notches of the digital trim on my radio. Blah.
DUDE,,, you wrote a BOOK! haha :) Congrats on getting it outside.. right now.. its very snowy and cold were I am. Yes, the holes did not line up very well.. and I needed to work my beams in as well. If you did this as your first RC kit.. GOOD for YOU! Its not overly complicated, but it is intricate. I switched my motor to a lower turn, more brute strength brushed. I kept the 14t pinion. Ill weigh mine down with 8-10lbs.. and see how show lumbers along. Really, great job man.. keep that passion alive!!
Yah, this thing was a lot of firsts for me. Before this, I'd only ever run RTR nitro, all the way back to the early 2000s. This truck, for me? First 'large scale' electric(I've had Mini-Zs and a Mini T over the years but nothing this size), first brushless RC, first scale/trail rig, first actual kit, first time with LiPos. The weather here in mid TN is...well, as I type this it's bucketing down, I haven't painted the shell yet, and I haven't waterproofed the steering servo or receiver yet. So I'm in no hurry to run mine outdoors right now.
I'm prolly gonna put a Shapeways ZU-23-2 AA gun in the back, weather it down, put Gordon Freeman and Duke Nukem in the cab. Goin' for a post-apocalyptic technical seems like a great way to tie off the way it runs!
I'm already having a blast with it, and I'll definitely be paying close attention to how you weather yours. Mine will need similar techniques applied to achieve the post-apoc technical I'm thinking of.
Great stuff bro! Have you heard of the salt technique? Spray a base coat of rust (reds, browns) then spray or brush on some water, sprinkle salt on the areas you want rusty, than spray your color coat over top. Once that dries take a tooth brush and remove the now painted salt and your left with properly layered rust! There are tons of other weathering techniques, really thinned out paint (they call it a wash) But very thinned out paint works well for a streaking affect... I'm part of the you tube model community, and there's a fellow modeler out there, Dr.Cranky. He is a great builder with an In Rust We Trust motto! He has tons of video's of rusting & dusting, all sorts of techniques, Using salt, dry-brushing, and lots of nice air-brush work, Check him out, Dr. Cranky.
Hey that sounds AWESOME! Thank you for that... I have never used that technique.. but I have used many others. So many people forget that I made a replica of Top Gears "To Kill A Toyota" hilux.. which was a beat down, rusted, flamed out, wate-rbogged wonderful truck!!
Yes that salt works very good! Let me find a TH-cam for you where you can see how it works
This is a great technique! TH-cam channel EricsTrains did this on a huge train bridge he built. Turned out great!
I don’t care what colour you do mate it’s your project but what ever colour u do I reckon we’ll all live it . P.S lu lu loving the series built keep make’n them videos 🔥🔥
Check out model HO scale train weathering techniques, they got it down pat and it will translate to old RC trucks no problem.
Love to see your ambitions!! Let me know if ya need any assistance Broski!! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!! Big Cheers from the BloodShot Studio!
Thanks man.. No, I've totally got this one ..this is all about enjoying this part of the hobby!
RCSparks Studio Awesome bro!! I do recommend scuffing down that plastic first. I did notice the scratch pad on the table, but Give that primer some extra "bite" ! I'm looking forward to seeing the process you use here!! I love the "pitina" look!! Big Cheers Broski!
Nice! I was thinking that a candy metallic burnt orange color would look cool on it. 👍😊👍
really enjoying this build! i would totally build the ratrod one haha! cant wait to see how this turns out Aaron!
Can't wait to see how the paint turns out on your truck. It should turn out awesome
I love the patina look your going for on this build. The old school military tires fit perfect for the theme with the flatbed. 💯🔥👍👍
Thank you so much for the support Marty. Every project I do always has two groups of people.. folks who really enjoy it, and others who flat out dislike. But, at the end of the day - as long as you are entertained and inspired - Im always having a great time doing these shows! Thanks for the comment
Mr. Medic... Someone accused me of stealing RCSparks intro I cant find any that look close to anything you guys have done. I don't like being accused of stealing someone else's ideas (especially yours). If it is close, and you say its a ripoff I will change it! I love the vids BTW and I'm a long time sub. Thanks bro and lots of love.
Sand the tire to make look good
couple things, downloaded Spintires Mudrunners on my PS4 Proand now have that addiction on top of the RC one. There is a method for weathering that I've used on static display models using washable Elmers white glue and non water based paint that works very well although I've never tried it on something this large. Tons of videos out there on how to do it. Finally ordered one of these kits for myself and looking forward to making it look its age.
Do yourself a huge favor and watch some TH-cam videos on weathering model trains. Chalks, powders, paints, they all create different affects. The more you practice, the better you’ll get!
Hello my name is Scott and I'm addicted to Radio Controlled vehicles and videos😎
Scot Firehamer 🍻
Cool build. This is random,but i figure you would know so, can i use 50wt 650cst shock silicone fuild for my xmaxx 82 v2 differential?? I would really appreciate your feedback....ps thanks to all the rc adventures and builds👍👍. Now im hooked.
So many cool options ... I would love to do a build like this.. Looking forward to see what you decide to do with it man.. Awesome build.. :)
Keep up the great videos man! I have been a fan of RC for many years but got out of it awhile back and I love spintires!! I have spent more time than I want to admit in the games. If you have a decent PC, I recommend getting the PC version of Mudrunner. Mod maps in MP, mod trucks, and electric winch etc. I have a new model from the Ukraine, Its a Ural 375A. Its not RC but its a cool model i need to put together. Most of all, thank you for the videos.
I have used Krylon Fusion Plastic paint on Lexan and it worked great on two bodies I did. I did an Ascender 1985 K5 Blazer body and a Proline 1966 Chevy both for my SCX10. The 1966 was my first RC paint job and is the basher body so I didn't do as many coats or take the time I should have so its pealing a tiny bit on the passenger door and roof, but the K5 is super clean, no pealing worked amazingly! I used about two thirds of the can painting both bodies.
Great info, looking forward to seeing how this truck turns out. I'm sure its going to look amazing.
You know it will! Ive been in the game a longgg time :)
ONE MORE NOTE (I promise): VERY Important! For either Bragdon or AIM Weathering Powders TO actually self adhere - you MUST apply them to a coarse (meaning Flat Paint) Surface. If you do not, they will NOT adhere to Glossy surfaces, and every time someone touches it - it will come off on their fingers, and wherever else they touch, will then have "Giant Human Fingerprints" all over the finished Model!! 😱😱😣😬 AND, if the other part they touch is s Flat Surface, it will be a virtually PERMANENT fingerprint!!
Also - you CAN take a little Powder, mix it in a *small* container with 90% or better Isopropyl Alcohol, it makes a NICE, subtle Wash! 😉
One more - except Windows or Light Lenses, hit the Model with a light dusting of Testors Dullcote - BY BRAND. It won't react with anything we use, and will lock in that nice Weathering Job that you just spent so much effort into doing!! 😇
DJMedic2008, let me say, Testors paints are not half as easy to work with, as Tamiya paints. I know this from experiance, building many a model, the Tamiya brush paints just apply so evenly, and easily.
I’ve used cheap ($1.00 a can) spray paints on hard bodies and even lexan bodies and am satisfied. Only one of my lexan bodies chipped a little on my Slashes fender area. The rustoleum paints are good, but I think it’s a bit thick for lexan, but probably fine for a hard body.
I personaly would go for the Original army green dull, and than aging it.... Awesome build Medic! Looking forward to the continued episodes of this project. :)
hi there i stumbled recently over your Channel and love the Spintire build you got going on. Realy good Content 👍🏻 about the paint job your after, i think i know someting that would might interesst you. Games Workshop a Company who mostly makes stuff for a Fantasy tabeltop game produces some realy good textured paints also sutable for modeling. i think you would find some easy way to get that woren down look your after with some of theyr paints. "Stirland Mud" woud give some good texture with a little drybrush. and i think they have also made some paint thad looks like ocidiced metal and rust. hope this gets you a step closer to your truck and thx for Sharing your work. 😉
Hobby paint apparently doesn’t crack and is more flexible. That’s what my hobby shop guys told me. I’m very sceptical though and would love ur feed back on other paint that doesn’t cost as much...
nice truck medic i cant wait to see it all rusty and old looking that's not what she said
Awesome build so far. Check out "RC everyday" his channel is focused on custom hot rod builds with weathering techniques. He does a lot of home made rat rods as well. I'm sure you could get some cool ideas for your project from him. :-) I'm excited to see this build progress this way. Cheers.
Nice paint selection. I have never tried a weathered or patina look on a model. Very interested to see how it turns out. Maybe I will stop by today😃
Don’t know about the camo coat but I have used the rustoleum ultra cover on several hard bodies with excellent results I honestly prefer it to the tamiya paint I highly suggest lightly sanding the body with 300 -400 grit paper before primer
I have used the big ones in some plastic wheels on my TR10 kyosho. acrylic transparent then white acrylic then acrylic glossy. after some use everything was gone.
the 55 rocks/some serious power and crawling linearity
I am currently actually working on my first rusty paint job, it's only on a lexan body, but painted on the outside, so the finish/base is similar to that of a hard body with primer.
I am finding using some brush Tamiya paints are working best, they give a naturally rusty/bumpy finish.
That would probably cost less than $20 and give you the most control over patina and rust.
Also, for the moss, look to model railways, they have an unlimited amount of fake grass, moss, trees, bushes etc... Something would definitely work for creating moss.
I'm no expert, but I'm enjoying my first one, I can't post pictures o TH-cam but I do have a thread on the RCSparks forum for anyone interested in my progress; www.rcsparks.com/forum/threads/scx10-jeep-wrangler-g6.36741/
Go to the last page for the start of the new body and rust.
Yes, patina lol I like watching the painting process you use. Plus it's very spin tire, that blue truck all beat up. Also rustoleum works great on plastics, it's been a general all purpose paint for me. I use it on plastics, metals, wood. Never had it crack and I'm terrible about priming and sanding. I just put a full coat on, let it try and hit 2 more times done.
I have done hard plastics with the plastic furniture paint, it works to a point, was doing some weathering similar to the blue/black truck look. it worked went on nicely, but where I had purposefully added thick layers of undercoat it flexed and cracked, giving it the look of cracking paint
I hate to be this guy but I went with the layered primer/paint/rust look myself on my toyota Landcruiser Gelande II. It’s in my videos on my channel. You can see how I started with rustoleum brick red then layered multiple rust brown and orange colors on top of the brick red and then went over that with the blue. Sanding through the layer of blue gets whatever is underneath to come through. I went the cheap way but I think if you’re skilled enough any method used can come up with beautiful results.
Make sure to rub down with alcohol and micro fiber cloth before you primer anything !! Its very important to do this. The oil residues from your hands will keep primer and paint from sticking to what ur wanting to paint. Note to self - If ur gonna paint it don't touch it with bare hands !!
I build models and I have used the primer with good results. I find if you have a super smooth body, go over it with a really fine grit sandpaper, like 600 grit, first, that helps the primer adhere better and you will get better paint results. Never used the camo coat paints but I have used the Tamiya and they are nice.
A good way to do "fresh" scratches is to spray silver spray paint into it's lid, then get a crappy chip brush, dip it in. Remove most of the paint from the brush then just flick it in the sides
It's called dry brushing, tutorials are probably good to look at
I love your videos. But i was surprise that you dont have review of HPI Vorza flux 6s. Can you please make one about it and what upgrades can be good for it ? Is it a good buy ?
hey medic a idea for aging the wooden bed rails maybe look into used motor oil as a stain just a idea.
Can I get one of your trucks can I get a summit of four-wheel drive Summit I love you videos and watch know since I was it's my first phone I've been watching them on my mom my dad my sisters whoever for I could get to I've I've been watching them
My choice...Rusted greenish dump truck version.
Also got this link from youtube, just to see how finished one looks like.
th-cam.com/video/ytbOU-BZqCY/w-d-xo.html
yeah! THIS is my favorite RC car channel. good luck, hope it looks nice!
Hello Medic.
Maybe so already mentioned but have a look at Olive rc.
This guy makes a lot of weathering. It might inspire you.
Ive used regular paint on hard bodies and its pretty cool it scratches like a real car on the trail and i think it cool especially when you do like 2 different colors of primer under the paint like a older vehicle thats been painted a few times i do it to store grade bodies all the time
I personally use flat white, black, colour of choice, matte clear and ground nutmeg for weathering, white is to get the stone chip type affect on bonnets, guards etc... but!!! I airbrush!! Mainly because you can use little bits at a time to get right into rust detail etc
Medic!! Just remember tire wear on the front is going to be worse than the rear. It is common to find the front tires almost bald and the rear still in good shape because they take on 2 jobs. Both holding and steering. Also an easy way to weather tires are to put them on something faster and bash with them. Much love. Hope your build goes well Medic!
I just was watching your construction rc vids. I have been wanting a rc excavator and dump truck for a while. I just don’t have the money to buy those things. Do you have any tips on how to get started in something like that.
My grandpa is a farmer and has a KB 6, he’s let me drive it around in a field a couple of times. It’s an absolute blast. Cool looking truck.
I build 1/25 models and when I do a patina paint job I actually use acrylic craft paint and a makeup sponge and just dab it on in layers that also gives you the bumpy look your after
Loving this build, check out "Olive RC" on TH-cam, he does amazing one off builds and is a expert in patinas.
I will say that I've used Rustoleum spray paint on plastic car models before and for enamel paint it's just as good as model kit enamel spray paint but I will still buy lacquer model paints for unique colors. I've personally never had any issues with Rustoleum paint products flaking off and can't beat it for the price in the hobby!
I totally use the rustoleum plastic paint works perfect. I still scuff the plastic though just for that extra little bit of adhesion guarantee. In the US it's about the same price but the color choices are abundant and it costs about the same as tamiya stuff, it does tend to crack off of lexan though. Sprays a lot thicker so go slow.
Hey Arron, rust is typically a red brown..... 8^)
Tamiya Spray Lacquer TS-1 Red Brown 3 oz
Id be painting it and uving a strong light that doesnt get hot to fade it over 6 months. Then go in with a torch and warm up the plastic and act like a scrape or dent into a pole or another vehicle on the fenders. As for rust, a hair bit of sand paper to dad againt damp/tacky paint and multiple colors. Time comsuming and all, but just my style.
Very nice idea for the paint job. Looking forward to see how you make it. I never painted an hard plastic body, this is very interesting.
Enrico!! Hey bud :) This is actually more simple than I made it out to be today. But this is how you hook people into watching.. Baha! This will turn out great!
I have this truck & before i build it, do you know how i can lock the rear end ? Is there a kit or part i can buy ? I don't want to half A** it i want to do it right. Thanks & i can't wait to see yours i'll be watching...
Check out RCEverydays sand scorcher build,he found a very realistic rust treatment. It looks great.
One of the things that you could do to get some more textured layers is to use a sea sponge if you do not allread have one, but doing that with some "mud" or body filler and from there use the paints to give it some color. That is one of the things that I will be looking in to when I get me ahold of one of those kits because at the same time I am going to be attacking it with layers of airbrush along with standard hand brushes along with a hand full of different shades of paint washes to really dirty up the body. One of the other things that you could do is something that my brother did by accident with his mojave scx10 conversion build that he did witch was after he painted it with a flat he went and ran it around ( given that he has clay on the ground where he is at) but I believe that it was the acidity of the red clay that lightly caked on in key spots in splash patterns near the finders that looked more natural. At the same time though I think that part of what made it look just right and not really over kill is that he was running the true scale look I guess you could say with a set of 1.5 offroad tires on it so that is was small traces. An other thing that I think would be doable would be to do a bad prime job where the primer is slightly drying before it hits the body so that it creates that rough texture and then from there you can water sand the areas that you want more smooth and then seal it off with either a mat clear or the paints and what not from there. Idk this is really making me want to go and get ahold of one of these kits and start building it up so that I can test some things out and ideas from almost backwards engineering the Auto body practice that is under my belt per say lol.
Your videos don’t show up in my subscription feed. I have alerts on and that lets me know when you upload. Love your videos!
That Rat rod semi was frieken awesome. Nice pick though. Just got done playing the new dlc actually haha.
Check out RC everyday on TH-cam. He does a bunch of the weathered stuff. Looks amazing!!
Medic i used duplicolor chrome paint and rustoleum blue paint for plastic paint for my radio shack hard body truck bought the paint from home hardware
That price increase in paint I live in NC USA and can get rustoleum camo paint for $4 a can and hav used it on firearms b4 and it holds up well on them
I think with that stiff rigid suspension and frame, that truck will make one bad ass pulling truck but your definitely gonna want to lock the rear and have the ability to add weight to the front to keep those rear wheels planted and then put up the side walls and haul loads when you want!!
Medic, use some Vellejo pigments to get the result you require. Check out Andy's hobby headquarters to see how they are used.
There’s a channel on here called “RC every day”.
He does a lot of weathering, patina and rust on his builds.
Check out rceveryday's youtube channel. Has some awesome vids on patina and weathering.
Bare minimum scuff all the gloss off that plastic inside and out so the paint can have something to grab onto. Great video as always!👍
Once you do all of this work on an RC how do you keep it nice. I want to build a nice scaler but also want to use it. My current body is really beat up from crawling. Does this always happen?
Im going back through your old catalog for instructions on a model I'm about to get and just wanted to say thank you and let you know you are missed.
Great video!! Love the paint idea always wanted to try those paints and see how the hold up, are they gonna chip or peel? IDK but so excited to see.
I think you are heading in the right direction with this build. love the paint scheme you are going with. I will be watching to see how the build goes......
If you have access to bead blaster you can make those tires look like they are 50 years old parked in a farmer's field keep up the great videos and thanks for the entertaining time
The normal spray paint will work just fine but you might want to use sandpaper to scuff up the body a little bit so the paint has something to grip to, plus might look better with the body scuffed up for the rust look.
You are on the right track now and if you watch some video's on how to get the look that you are going for then you will be fine. Take your time my friend and you will love the look that you get. And look for video's on how to do a wash with paints. A good wash can give you a grate look when adding a rusted out look. Have fun with it and know that there's no wrong way to do this.
I painted a shell with paint from the rusty paint company. You paint it on then apply your top coats. Rub the top coat threw where you want rust then spray the whole thing with this solution, This causes the rusty paint to rust
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Love the vids keep it up. Also the hobby shop i went to said to not in -5 and its Canada in the dead of winter so dose this matter? Just wondering thx
That one you pulled up, the rat rod, I loved the spikes on the tires. How they have it on the box looks good for me, but that rusty white one is the best one out of all the ones you showed.
You should look into zero paints. They also have some washes that you can buy to get the patina look. I use to build models
I have used standard paints on my hard bodys with and with out plastic primer and they always come up sweet price point is a big thing for me and to be honest there is more variety at you local hardware store for spray paint.
That's not drool on my keyboard...... that's ectoplasm. There was a ghost in here ~ randy marsh
Just got home last night from motorama gave you a shout-out for getting me in this hobby parker gave me a interview and ask how got me into the hobby
This is an awesome build. I also LOVE to play Mud Runner as well! I'd like to build a few scale versions of the trucks in that game as well, I think I'm going to have to get this kit myself,I may do two of them and make one 4 wheel drive and put a tanker on the back of one of them. I also want a Cross RC 6x6 too
Cross-RC GAZ-66 (the GC4 or GC4M kit) also make a great Spintire/Mudrunner RC truck. The GC4M (command car version) looks very like the support truck from Spintires. The GC4 (the version with the bed and tarpaulin) would look very much like the GAZ-66 repair truck from Mudrunner with some fuel drums and truck parts in the rear bed. I own the command car version of Cross-RC's GAZ-66, and it runs very nicely right out of the box with the cross-RC ESC and 45T motor. Its very smooth and has a lot of grip even in the mud.
just remember mate that when you put the rust on, a little means more, and take your time, and baking soda makes beautiful rust, ian down under