When are you getting the sport? I’m becoming pretty well versed in these 5.0s so if you have any questions or need any help don’t be afraid to reach out.
I have recently seen the updated aluminum ones in the past month, sadly they didn’t pop up until after I already swapped these ones. Next go around I will be doing the aluminum ones.
@@venturevalzone2799 i only see the aluminum ones for the supercharger. Crickets on the normal 5.0. It has the same problems but they ignore it like a red headed step child.
@@robertchiarizia9463 Just switch to waterless coolant and the plastic won't burst open because there's almost no pressure in the coolant system with waterless coolant.
How much do these pipes (front and rear coolant outlet pipes) cost? And where can I order them from in canada? Dealer wants to charge $1600 cdn for this job. I’d like to save some cash. Thx.
You can order them from Amazon, eBay, Atlantic British, lucky8, rovers north, or almost any other Rover supplier. They were about $170us. Just try to get OEM, there are cheaper options and they are junk.
Hi I replaced both plastic parts the back for aluminum one, and now I see a lot of steam coming from tailpipe and my cooling reservoir is empty, what I did wrong!!!! Everything was fine before HELP!!!
@@venturevalzone2799 Hi , you are saying, leaking into the cylinder chamber. Cause I drove it 15 around the block and the steam didn’t stop! I think is a head gasket issue
@@erickcontreras637 I’m not saying anything, that’s a hard diagnosis to make over a TH-cam comment chain. I would recommend doing more research or getting an actual diagnosis done on it.
@@venturevalzone2799 stupid thing, but please let me know, how to remove box which are above of manifold intake connected to air filter boxes, there are 3 clamp bands (2 to each pipe of airbox and 1 to manifold)?
I'm having the exact same issues & I also broke the front bleeder line while installing the front cross over tube & rear manifold pipe... 🤦 What has my life become 🙍
If you have a Rover then life has become misery. It’s insane how fragile everything is on these motors. They are a decent and rather stout motor for driving but the second you touch something or move something getting to another part it’s like glass. 90% of my issues so far have been from fixing 1 issue.
If I end up doing another bleed in the near future I will. Your best bet is to get a vacuum pump to bleed the system with. For a quick explanation though fill your coolant tank, crank the rig and bring up to 2000-3000 rpm’s and keep it there. Turn on the heater on the truck at full blast. On initial start crack your bleeder nut on the back side towards the battery until you get a steady stream of coolant (only break it loose enough to let out the air, you do not want to do this when it is hot because it will go everywhere and you risk the bleeder nut popping off and causing harm to you or the vehicle. Be careful cracking these as they are plastic and prone to breaking. I would recommend ordering the brass replacements prior to doing this to save yourself the headache of it failing during bleeding or later when you are driving.). Once the truck heats up keep running until you feel hot air come from the vents. The hotter the air the less air in the system. You have to run it until the thermostat opens to cycle the full system. Once you get to this point you can cautiously back the bleeder but on the coolant reservoir to let out air, keep cracking and closing this bleeder nut as air builds up. You should notice a big difference in the temperature from the heater at this point. Keep doing this until there are no more air bubbles. (All of the above is done while the heat is running and the motor is between 2k and 3k rpm’s. This is a 2 person job). Once you feel good with your bleed then turn off the rig and let it cool. DO NOT open anything on the system until it is completely cool, if you do it will draw air into the system and you have to start over. Once the motor cools, about 2 hours, top off the coolant and do it all over again. After you feel the air is out of the system let it sit overnight, I’ve heard some people leave the cap cracked on the reservoir to help let air escape, this will allow the air to settle. The next day top off the coolant and repeat the bleeding process. Your rig should be blowing extremely hot air from the vents once warmed up, temp gauge should be sitting in the middle. Keep a close eye on the coolant level for the following few days to top off incase there were any trapped air pockets. I would recommend being very confident doing the bleeding process, they are very finicky and will over heat in an instant. They are difficult, take your time, repeat the process as many times as you need to until you feel 120%. These motors leave very little room for error. Hope this helps!
I don’t want to jinx it but so far since the works been done it’s been holding on pretty well. They can always use work so if I had a ton of money to throw at it I would. I’ve still got a small coolant leak that’s not showing itself and an oil leak from the oil level sensor. I’ve also had a trans fluid leak that was due to an untorqued transmission pan but that was an easy fix. Cost wise, it’s just a gas hog.
@@cbrawr1000rr I have a 2010 Autobiography with the SC engine and it came from the factory with aluminum crossover pipes on the front which must have been changed to plastic in 2011. Not much mentioned about this in the forums.
@@rippinmachines just realized I commented with my other channel lol. That’s odd, but also wouldn’t surprise me either that they would swap it with plastic.
Sadly Tata motors has done a lot to diminish the quality of the Rover line up and sadly the rest of the auto industry followed suit. I hate to say it but the more I drive the range the Rover the more it shows that it’s really a hunk of hot garbage.
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought a aluminum cross over pipe for mines. It's one piece. I just wish they made aluminum rear coolant flange as well.
Where did you buy yours? Why chance you could drop the link here? I need to get the same part and I would like the updated aluminum 1 piece.
@@christinaeaves5534 they also sell the rear aluminum coolant manifold flange as well.
@@Chewie374 wait where? looked everywhere couldnt find rear one. Please provide a link or refer to a site. Thanks
@@e.e9331 I bought mine from eBay.
No way. I came across this video in preparation for buying a 2014 sport but I met you once at the cars and coffee. I had my p38
😂🤣 Small world man. It’s funny cause most people know me from my TH-cam channel first.
When are you getting the sport? I’m becoming pretty well versed in these 5.0s so if you have any questions or need any help don’t be afraid to reach out.
The hood goes in to service mode giving you a way better angle at it
Learn something new everyday 😅😅. That would have been very handy for the valve cover fiasco! Thank you for the tip!
Just came go find out. There is also aluminum heater manifold pipe. Ordering it today.
Not for the V8
There is an update on the coolant pipes from plastic to aluminum and a reroute.
I have recently seen the updated aluminum ones in the past month, sadly they didn’t pop up until after I already swapped these ones. Next go around I will be doing the aluminum ones.
@@venturevalzone2799 i only see the aluminum ones for the supercharger. Crickets on the normal 5.0. It has the same problems but they ignore it like a red headed step child.
@@robertchiarizia9463 100%. They are try to pretend like they never existed
@@robertchiarizia9463 Just switch to waterless coolant and the plastic won't burst open because there's almost no pressure in the coolant system with waterless coolant.
@@JetFire9 it’s the o rings, not the plastic. O rings aren’t sold separately. They flatten out over time and need replaced.
How much do these pipes (front and rear coolant outlet pipes) cost? And where can I order them from in canada? Dealer wants to charge $1600 cdn for this job. I’d like to save some cash. Thx.
You can order them from Amazon, eBay, Atlantic British, lucky8, rovers north, or almost any other Rover supplier. They were about $170us. Just try to get OEM, there are cheaper options and they are junk.
Hi
I replaced both plastic parts the back for aluminum one, and now I see a lot of steam coming from tailpipe and my cooling reservoir is empty, what I did wrong!!!! Everything was fine before
HELP!!!
@@erickcontreras637 That’s a good question. I have no idea. My guess would be you didn’t bleed the system properly or one of the pipes is leaking.
@@venturevalzone2799
Hi , you are saying, leaking into the cylinder chamber. Cause I drove it 15 around the block and the steam didn’t stop! I think is a head gasket issue
@@erickcontreras637 I’m not saying anything, that’s a hard diagnosis to make over a TH-cam comment chain. I would recommend doing more research or getting an actual diagnosis done on it.
Ya know that hood will flip up 90 deg to get access to the back of the motor..
I’ve learned this about 24 hours to late 😂
hi mate, have you got any specific symptoms of leaking intake manifold or that was prevention to replace orings?
More so preventative maintenance. The o rings were old and tired as well as the throttle bodies so I figured I might as well replace them.
@@venturevalzone2799 stupid thing, but please let me know, how to remove box which are above of manifold intake connected to air filter boxes, there are 3 clamp bands (2 to each pipe of airbox and 1 to manifold)?
I'm having the exact same issues & I also broke the front bleeder line while installing the front cross over tube & rear manifold pipe... 🤦 What has my life become 🙍
If you have a Rover then life has become misery. It’s insane how fragile everything is on these motors. They are a decent and rather stout motor for driving but the second you touch something or move something getting to another part it’s like glass. 90% of my issues so far have been from fixing 1 issue.
Could you do a video on bleeding the system?
If I end up doing another bleed in the near future I will. Your best bet is to get a vacuum pump to bleed the system with.
For a quick explanation though fill your coolant tank, crank the rig and bring up to 2000-3000 rpm’s and keep it there. Turn on the heater on the truck at full blast. On initial start crack your bleeder nut on the back side towards the battery until you get a steady stream of coolant (only break it loose enough to let out the air, you do not want to do this when it is hot because it will go everywhere and you risk the bleeder nut popping off and causing harm to you or the vehicle. Be careful cracking these as they are plastic and prone to breaking. I would recommend ordering the brass replacements prior to doing this to save yourself the headache of it failing during bleeding or later when you are driving.). Once the truck heats up keep running until you feel hot air come from the vents. The hotter the air the less air in the system. You have to run it until the thermostat opens to cycle the full system. Once you get to this point you can cautiously back the bleeder but on the coolant reservoir to let out air, keep cracking and closing this bleeder nut as air builds up. You should notice a big difference in the temperature from the heater at this point. Keep doing this until there are no more air bubbles. (All of the above is done while the heat is running and the motor is between 2k and 3k rpm’s. This is a 2 person job). Once you feel good with your bleed then turn off the rig and let it cool. DO NOT open anything on the system until it is completely cool, if you do it will draw air into the system and you have to start over.
Once the motor cools, about 2 hours, top off the coolant and do it all over again. After you feel the air is out of the system let it sit overnight, I’ve heard some people leave the cap cracked on the reservoir to help let air escape, this will allow the air to settle. The next day top off the coolant and repeat the bleeding process. Your rig should be blowing extremely hot air from the vents once warmed up, temp gauge should be sitting in the middle. Keep a close eye on the coolant level for the following few days to top off incase there were any trapped air pockets.
I would recommend being very confident doing the bleeding process, they are very finicky and will over heat in an instant. They are difficult, take your time, repeat the process as many times as you need to until you feel 120%. These motors leave very little room for error.
Hope this helps!
How has this rig bent run from a cost /reliabilty standpoint after all your work?
I don’t want to jinx it but so far since the works been done it’s been holding on pretty well. They can always use work so if I had a ton of money to throw at it I would. I’ve still got a small coolant leak that’s not showing itself and an oil leak from the oil level sensor. I’ve also had a trans fluid leak that was due to an untorqued transmission pan but that was an easy fix. Cost wise, it’s just a gas hog.
@@cbrawr1000rr I have a 2010 Autobiography with the SC engine and it came from the factory with aluminum crossover pipes on the front which must have been changed to plastic in 2011. Not much mentioned about this in the forums.
@@rippinmachines just realized I commented with my other channel lol. That’s odd, but also wouldn’t surprise me either that they would swap it with plastic.
How can they put such garbage in? 😢
Sadly Tata motors has done a lot to diminish the quality of the Rover line up and sadly the rest of the auto industry followed suit. I hate to say it but the more I drive the range the Rover the more it shows that it’s really a hunk of hot garbage.