Thank you so much for sharing with us your wealth of knowledge. I’ve only begun this bonsai journey for a little more than a year. So much to understand, and you deliver the information in a comprehensive way,
I love black pines, but styled trees with serious trunks and nibari are way our out of my price range. I bought a couple of stock black pines with trunks of varying thickness intending to transform them into shohin trees. Your video answered many questions about next steps - and the tip about trunk thickening with wiring is brilliant. Thank you. I immediately became a subscriber.
Growing from seed does require some patience to be sure but your initial cost is negligible of course and you will learn much in the process. Thank you for your kind compliment. Much appreciated.
JBP grow pretty fast if you have good heat and use good technique (draining soil and fertilizer). I started with trees of various ages when I started growing bonsai. I bought a few more mature trees, some starters and started trees from seed. I also started practicing grafting, seedling cuttings and any technique I learned about. There are different approaches and different methods depending on the stage of the tree. By having trees in different stages you can get a jump on most of these without waiting until your trees are mature. Have fun. I love JBP. Probably my favorite tree!
JBP grow pretty fast if you have good heat and use good technique (draining soil and fertilizer). I started with trees of various ages when I started growing bonsai. I bought a few more mature trees, some starters and started trees from seed. I also started practicing grafting, seedling cuttings and any technique I learned about. There are different approaches and different methods depending on the stage of the tree. By having trees in different stages you can get a jump on most of these without waiting until your trees are mature. Have fun. I love JBP. Probably my favorite tree!
Thank you Terry, Your videos are great!!!! The one thing I get wondering while watching was the timing for each step. I recognize there is limited time in developing these videos. If there was a way to incorporate some growing cycle reference the video may be even more helpful. It’s Early September and I have many pines with kind sacrifice branches. I really appreciate showing how you wean the tree off the sacrifice branch by gradually removing the base.
Thank you for the compliment! Yes I sometimes forget to put some info in or to mention it, just so much to say. If you wish to start reducing the sacrifice branch then you can pretty much do this any time. I’d suggest that between active periods of growth might be best ie winter and after spring needles have hardened. I usually don’t use months as a point of reference, rather what the tree is doing.
This was great Terry, perfect timing as I got a couple JBP seedlings from a Bonsai club member and am keen to learn more as these are the first Pine I will be working on. So far on track , no doubt from watching your other videos!
Thank you very much for this amazing video, I have been more than 3 years willing to find one like this, seeing those Scape branches on your and some Japanese videos and getting mad to not know how to prune them jejej So happy to receive this content, and even more to be from you Terry, thank you very much 😀 Have a wonderful 2024 and I wish that all your dreams come true 😀😊💪🏻
Terry, thank you for sharing your secrets. This is very valuable to me! 🙏 I still have a couple of questions: - When you “gnaw” a sacrificial branch, do you close it with sealant or leave it open? - At what period do you prune the sacrificial branch? it is spring?
My pleasure, hope they help you. No, I don’t seal the wound. There is some resin which leaks out but that’s fine. I prune that branch off a year later; give or take. I do that in summer. I don’t know that it matters too much when it’s done, so spring is good too most likely. The point is more about giving time to the plant to transition off sap flow to that branch.
They have , I have been officially only for 2 years with them . But we do 2/3 performances a year in our little one . But this year in October we have the opportunity if everything is fine to host an exhibition nationally with a Japanese master ( I now do not remember the name ), to do the workshop . However, thanks to videos, I often take inspiration , especially on how to evolve a plant , I like to experiment . they are neither young nor too old (45) , when many people dwell on Pini, juniper and 2/3 other species.
That’s great! I wish you every success with your exhibition in October then. I am very glad my videos are of some inspiration to you. That’s great. Keep well.
Thanks so much! I use 80% stone 2-3mm size and 20% akadama. But you could change the stone for pumice and also vary the % depending on how often you can water.
Hi, can i ask you please what time of the year do you perform the pruning of the side buds on the sacrificial branch? And what time for cutting the entire branch? Thanks in advance, very useful video
Thanks for asking Richard, very relevant questions. For me, the best time is when I have time and as you saw from the video some I did not get to for at least a year! However I would recommend you cut the side buds at the terminal in spring before they begin extending. If you miss that, then any time after that. Cutting off the entire branch, if you have used the technique I demonstrate in the video where you first ring bark it....you can remove the entire branch any time during the following season - so 1 year later, anytime during summer.
@@TerryErasmusbonsaijust a follow-up question about the branch removal, I probably missed something or misunderstood your explanation. Did you remove a complete bark ring around the branch, or did you leave a bridge between the lower and the top part? Wouldn't removing the whole ring be the same as cutting the branch off? Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
@@TerryErasmusbonsaispecifically the step you do in #1. I've never seen that technique cutting a seedling so young. Do you just plant the cut part or grow the root?
It’s not my idea, it comes from the article in Bonsai today 21, I think. A lot of people do it that way. You throw away the root and stick the rest of it into the soil. Aftercare is important but once you get the hang of it, 100% strike is possible.
Excellent video, I learned a lot, thank you! I have a question however, on the method to cut the escape branch (by first gnawing at it). In my understanding, the hearthwood of a tree is just dead cells. If you are gnawing to the heartwood, isn't it the same than totally cutting the branch ? Or are you just cutting the cambium, and let some if the sapwood intact ? That way the branch is still alimented, but cannot provide elaborated sap to the tree, hence the tree starts to abandon the branch by itself? If that the case, it could be helpful to precise it in the video, so that people trying that technic don't cut all the sapwood. It's basically the same technic that is used for air layering (without the medium at the cut that trigger the creation of roots), right ? Thanks again!
Great, I am glad it was helpful. Thank you for taking the time to comment. Please allow me to just re-iterate that in the beginning of the video I stated that the 10 tips were not a growing guide. I again said when I came to the tip you are referring to that there are many ways of dealing with these escape branches, an enthusiast can either adopt the tip or they can use another technique if they wish. It is not the same as cutting the branch off no. I showed a branch to which that technique was applied 1 year later and the needles were still alive but clearly not as healthy as the "normal" growth. In the video I thought it was very clear, and I stated that I was using a knob cutter and show myself cutting big chunks out of the wood so definately not just removing the cambium. I am sorry but I do not know what "alimented" or "elaborated" means in this context - please explain those concept to me so I can also learn. Please suggest how I could have been clearer on this as I thought I had made it very clear what the tip was both in word and demonstration, and you are the only person so far to question this. I believe I am cutting into the sapwood as I don't think on a tree of this young age there will be any or much heartwood. Sapwood is the new wood under the Cambium layer. It is often lighter in colour than true wood or heart wood and it conducts water and mineral salts from the root system of the tree to the leaves which would explain why it continues to remain alive. However as the live bark has been removed food materials produced by the needles aren't able to be conducted to the branches, trunk and roots of the tree. I did not go into plant physiology as I must admit that I don't myself know or understand why this works so well but I do hope my explanation helps you a little.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thanks for your answer. The sapwood conducts the crude/raw sap up to the leaves, and the photosynthesis transforms that into elaborated sap, that travel down the cambium. As the needles are still alive after a year, it's proof enough that the sapwood was not completely removed , the needles continue to receive raw sap, but the flow of the descending elaborated sap is cut out, so it is used to grow the bulge you showed in the video. It's the same principle used for air layer, cutting the cambium to have elaborated sap that will be used to produce roots. As you said, a tree this young probably doesn't have much heartwood, indeed, so there should be little risk to remove all the sap wood. Removing all the sapwood would be the same as cutting the branch. If, as you say, there is little to no heartwood, there is low chances that someone following your tips would remove all the sapwood, killing the branch and weakening the tree.
Hi Terry :) Great video - a huge amount of informations in a short amount of time. Would it be possible to airlayer the escape branch at the same time while cutting that big groove around it? Or would that be contraproductive for the shohin (weakening it to much/slowing down its development)?
Hi Markus, thats a good question. I guess you could air layer it much higher up (remember that everything is removed on the sacrifice lower down) but to be honest I have thousands of pines and far too little time to bother with air layering which may or may not take and at the very least takes some years. You can make a cutting of the end too though and provided you can keep it hydrated it will root, I've seen that done too.
If I want to form a bigger pine tree, do I have to use the same technique in the video too? Or is it just for shohin? I have several seedlings but I have nowhere to start. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the comment. You will need to be specific about which technique you are referring to. Some are still applicable and others are not when growing larger trees.
Great video Terry. How old are the thickest of the pines. (7:00) At what stage will you repot these pines and will you repot them into a bonsai pot? Great little trees.
Thanks Stephen. I believe the oldest is now 5 years old, not more than 6 from seedling cutting. They were repotted a year ago so will need to repot them next spring (so every 2 years). I’ll probably keep them in these Marukou containers for a few more years. The goal would be in another 4 or 5 years to have some nice little Shohin, if all goes according to plan. Thanks for the compliment! 🙇🏼♂️
@TerryErasmusbonsai Hi Terry, I went back and watched it again. The soil looked organic to me, and then you mentioned organic fertilizer, and I got a little confused. I understand now. Thanks, Andrew
Sure, you can make it taller. You should select another branch to continue the trunk line with though before you cut the sacrifice so you can strengthen this prior to cutting the sacrifice.
i have a JBP growing from seed, only one survived out of 5. It's 3 months old and is only 1.5 inches high and has about 18 needles on it. It doesn't seem to be growing anymore? Should I give it fertilizer? Change the soil? I used a mix of potting soil, a bonsai mix and akadama. I want this little tree to grow so bad it hurts. I'm not sure why the other ones died, it seemed like it just couldn't support itself and fell over. All this is new to me so I would appreciate any advice. I'm goin to try again very soon. Thanks
Thanks for the question. Sounds like you kept the seedlings too wet with that mix. It sounds like they died due to damping off. I use a 1:1 mix of akadama and crushed silica for young pines. They need to dry out a bit. Don’t fertilize a weak plant. Don’t change the soil unless it’s the right time of the year to do so. Adjust your watering and place it in full sun.
Yes you heard correctly. I DONT use sacrificial branch/es for pines, but it used to be a technique employed in the past although no longer. I DO use an escape branch.... as shown in the video. I believe the understanding of a sacrifice branch is that it is a branch and it grows out from the trunk generally horizontally taking a huge amount of area on a bench. However an escape branch, at least in this context grows generally vertically and is the trunk, or at least originally it is because it could be a branch in the future which is grown roughly vertically. You certainly can be forgiven for thinking they are the same thing, I get that completely. However in the absence of better terms or a better definition that's what I have, together with the context and video images I think it should be pretty clear what I mean. 😉 I do hope you got something constructive out of the video though, other than just a little confusion.
I'm developing japonese black pines for the first time ,and this tutorial is really helpfull ..thank you Terry 🙏🙏🙏
Fantastic Rico! Thanks so much for letting me know. JBP can be confusing but they are awesome to grow.
As someone very new to black pine this is brilliant. Cheers
Awesome Xavier! Enjoy growing your pines.
this is probably the very best video on JBP i've ever seen, just about all the information and in just 8 minutes
Thanks so much. 🙇🏼♂️
I second this
Thanks so much, truly appreciated 🙏🏻
This afternoon as I was watering my Terry-Pines I was hoping that one day you would make this video. Thanks a lot. Great helpfull video.
So nice of you Gerrit! “Terry-pines” 😂😂😂😜
I want to make trees 30 to 40 centimeters tall. But thank you very much for answering me.
@djalmaantoniosilva2177 I think the best would be to book a virtual consultation with me. www.bonsaitree.co.za/products/consultation
Thank you very much Terry for this very interesting and useful video. I wish you all the best in this new year!👍👍👍👍😉
Ah thanks Roberto! Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the wishes and I trust you have an awesome 2024 too!
Thank you so much for sharing with us your wealth of knowledge. I’ve only begun this bonsai journey for a little more than a year. So much to understand, and you deliver the information in a comprehensive way,
So nice of you Barbara! Thank you.
I love black pines, but styled trees with serious trunks and nibari are way our out of my price range. I bought a couple of stock black pines with trunks of varying thickness intending to transform them into shohin trees. Your video answered many questions about next steps - and the tip about trunk thickening with wiring is brilliant. Thank you. I immediately became a subscriber.
Growing from seed does require some patience to be sure but your initial cost is negligible of course and you will learn much in the process.
Thank you for your kind compliment. Much appreciated.
JBP grow pretty fast if you have good heat and use good technique (draining soil and fertilizer). I started with trees of various ages when I started growing bonsai. I bought a few more mature trees, some starters and started trees from seed. I also started practicing grafting, seedling cuttings and any technique I learned about. There are different approaches and different methods depending on the stage of the tree. By having trees in different stages you can get a jump on most of these without waiting until your trees are mature. Have fun. I love JBP. Probably my favorite tree!
JBP grow pretty fast if you have good heat and use good technique (draining soil and fertilizer). I started with trees of various ages when I started growing bonsai. I bought a few more mature trees, some starters and started trees from seed. I also started practicing grafting, seedling cuttings and any technique I learned about. There are different approaches and different methods depending on the stage of the tree. By having trees in different stages you can get a jump on most of these without waiting until your trees are mature. Have fun. I love JBP. Probably my favorite tree!
@matshagstrom9839 your advice is spot on 🙌🏻
Sooo helpful - answers so many of my questions. Much appreciation!!
Glad it was helpful Sue!
Very helpful, Thanks😃
🙌🏻
Thank you so much for sharing this helpful video. I’ve learnt a lot for your channel. Please keep uploading more🙏🏻👍✨🔆
Awesome! I am so glad. Will keep uploading as long as I can and as long as people view the content. 😊
Thank you Terry,
Your videos are great!!!!
The one thing I get wondering while watching was the timing for each step. I recognize there is limited time in developing these videos. If there was a way to incorporate some growing cycle reference the video may be even more helpful. It’s Early September and I have many pines with kind sacrifice branches. I really appreciate showing how you wean the tree off the sacrifice branch by gradually removing the base.
Thank you for the compliment! Yes I sometimes forget to put some info in or to mention it, just so much to say. If you wish to start reducing the sacrifice branch then you can pretty much do this any time. I’d suggest that between active periods of growth might be best ie winter and after spring needles have hardened.
I usually don’t use months as a point of reference, rather what the tree is doing.
Fantastic video, the exact information I needed
Glad it was helpful Lou!
Very nice 💙
Thank you! Cheers!
This was great Terry, perfect timing as I got a couple JBP seedlings from a Bonsai club member and am keen to learn more as these are the first Pine I will be working on. So far on track , no doubt from watching your other videos!
Wonderful Wesley! Good luck with your pines. 👍🏻
Thank you very much for this amazing video, I have been more than 3 years willing to find one like this, seeing those Scape branches on your and some Japanese videos and getting mad to not know how to prune them jejej
So happy to receive this content, and even more to be from you Terry, thank you very much 😀
Have a wonderful 2024 and I wish that all your dreams come true 😀😊💪🏻
Glad I could help Pascual! Thanks for the kind comment.
Thank you for the wishes and may you also be blessed this year. 😊
Excelent guide, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
素敵な動画、ありがとうございます。日本からも楽しみに見ています。
それは素晴らしい！ありがとうございます。あなたがそのビデオを楽しんだことを願っています
We want more, we want more!
That’s so kind! You want more, I will give more. As soon as possible. Thank you 🙏🏻
Very helpful video , thanks so much
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this video!👏🏽
You're so welcome!
Terry, thank you for sharing your secrets. This is very valuable to me! 🙏
I still have a couple of questions:
- When you “gnaw” a sacrificial branch, do you close it with sealant or leave it open?
- At what period do you prune the sacrificial branch? it is spring?
My pleasure, hope they help you.
No, I don’t seal the wound. There is some resin which leaks out but that’s fine.
I prune that branch off a year later; give or take. I do that in summer. I don’t know that it matters too much when it’s done, so spring is good too most likely. The point is more about giving time to the plant to transition off sap flow to that branch.
Thanks button hit!
🙏🏻😊
Thank you Terry !
You are very welcome Graham!
Very informative video! Unlike the content on pines! I started a batch of pines last year :)
Good luck!
Nice one Terry.
Thanks so much 🙇🏼♂️
Wow, you blew my mind with that escape branch technique Terry. I really enjoy your videos digging up your field green stock
Glad you enjoyed it Damian! Thanks for that feedback, hopefully I’ll be doing more field growing content soon.
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the donation. I appreciate it.
Fantastic tutorial. Thanks, keep growing
Thanks, will do Matt! 🙌🏻
Good job, i like it
Thank you so much. 🙇🏼♂️
Thanks Terry, Happy new Year!!!!!!
Happy new year! Thank you!
Another excellent video Terry
Glad you enjoyed it Alex!
molto molto interessante grazie
è un piacere, sono felice che ti sia piaciuto, grazie per la visione
Very nice and helpfull Informations ! Thank you very much 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I like this...
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
Great content, thanks a lot. Excellent tips!
Ah thank you so much ! 🙏🏻
I have my seedling all set up for nice growth and could always use more tips from you ! Very nice video once again
That’s great! Hope the tips come in handy.
They have , I have been officially only for 2 years with them . But we do 2/3 performances a year in our little one . But this year in October we have the opportunity if everything is fine to host an exhibition nationally with a Japanese master ( I now do not remember the name ), to do the workshop . However, thanks to videos, I often take inspiration , especially on how to evolve a plant , I like to experiment . they are neither young nor too old (45) , when many people dwell on Pini, juniper and 2/3 other species.
Ops , I accidentally deleted the previous messages , always the guy from Lucca Toscana
That’s great! I wish you every success with your exhibition in October then. I am very glad my videos are of some inspiration to you. That’s great. Keep well.
Great Video! How often do you repot them in the first 5 years?
Great question! I’d suggest every 2 years. Year one they are re-establishing and year two they put on serious development.
Most informative and educational. Maybe I will try one more time with this specie.😅
Come on, you can do it man! 😊
Please add more shohin content....
Will do Billy Bob. Thanks for asking 🙏🏻
Thanks.
Thanks for this video. Is it possible to make air layer on the escape branches ? no wasting 😇
Yes it is possible. But rooting can take some time ie two years or even more.
Awesome video and great tips and info . Thanks
Glad it was helpful! My pleasure.
Buenas tardes me gustaría saber donde comprar la pinza curvas que usas para este video
Muchísimas gracias por todo
Thank you so much. Do you mean the knob cutter? It is Kaneshin made.
I have seen cable ties or zip ties that can be reused by undoing them, thank you for the video.
Great tip! I have seen those too, long time ago. Do you think they will be UV resistant for a couple years in the African sun though?
That is a good question, I think it calls for an experiment.@@TerryErasmusbonsai
Great Terry, what mix use for growing jpb?
Thanks so much!
I use 80% stone 2-3mm size and 20% akadama. But you could change the stone for pumice and also vary the % depending on how often you can water.
Hi, can i ask you please what time of the year do you perform the pruning of the side buds on the sacrificial branch? And what time for cutting the entire branch? Thanks in advance, very useful video
Thanks for asking Richard, very relevant questions.
For me, the best time is when I have time and as you saw from the video some I did not get to for at least a year! However I would recommend you cut the side buds at the terminal in spring before they begin extending. If you miss that, then any time after that.
Cutting off the entire branch, if you have used the technique I demonstrate in the video where you first ring bark it....you can remove the entire branch any time during the following season - so 1 year later, anytime during summer.
@@TerryErasmusbonsaijust a follow-up question about the branch removal, I probably missed something or misunderstood your explanation. Did you remove a complete bark ring around the branch, or did you leave a bridge between the lower and the top part? Wouldn't removing the whole ring be the same as cutting the branch off?
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
@alessiocasagrande7916 hi Alessio. Yes, a complete ring. No bridge. No it’s not the same.
Do you have tutorials on seedling cuttings like in #1?
Yes I do. Please watch this th-cam.com/video/-qTPEy4PAwE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FBC1xEX_zqOUmnIZ
@@TerryErasmusbonsaispecifically the step you do in #1. I've never seen that technique cutting a seedling so young. Do you just plant the cut part or grow the root?
And thanks for replying. I love your vids
It’s not my idea, it comes from the article in Bonsai today 21, I think. A lot of people do it that way. You throw away the root and stick the rest of it into the soil. Aftercare is important but once you get the hang of it, 100% strike is possible.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Hey thanks again. It was actually #20!
Excellent video, I learned a lot, thank you!
I have a question however, on the method to cut the escape branch (by first gnawing at it). In my understanding, the hearthwood of a tree is just dead cells. If you are gnawing to the heartwood, isn't it the same than totally cutting the branch ? Or are you just cutting the cambium, and let some if the sapwood intact ? That way the branch is still alimented, but cannot provide elaborated sap to the tree, hence the tree starts to abandon the branch by itself? If that the case, it could be helpful to precise it in the video, so that people trying that technic don't cut all the sapwood. It's basically the same technic that is used for air layering (without the medium at the cut that trigger the creation of roots), right ?
Thanks again!
Great, I am glad it was helpful. Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Please allow me to just re-iterate that in the beginning of the video I stated that the 10 tips were not a growing guide. I again said when I came to the tip you are referring to that there are many ways of dealing with these escape branches, an enthusiast can either adopt the tip or they can use another technique if they wish.
It is not the same as cutting the branch off no. I showed a branch to which that technique was applied 1 year later and the needles were still alive but clearly not as healthy as the "normal" growth. In the video I thought it was very clear, and I stated that I was using a knob cutter and show myself cutting big chunks out of the wood so definately not just removing the cambium.
I am sorry but I do not know what "alimented" or "elaborated" means in this context - please explain those concept to me so I can also learn.
Please suggest how I could have been clearer on this as I thought I had made it very clear what the tip was both in word and demonstration, and you are the only person so far to question this.
I believe I am cutting into the sapwood as I don't think on a tree of this young age there will be any or much heartwood. Sapwood is the new wood under the Cambium layer. It is often lighter in colour than true wood or heart wood and it conducts water and mineral salts from the root system of the tree to the leaves which would explain why it continues to remain alive. However as the live bark has been removed food materials produced by the needles aren't able to be conducted to the branches, trunk and roots of the tree. I did not go into plant physiology as I must admit that I don't myself know or understand why this works so well but I do hope my explanation helps you a little.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thanks for your answer. The sapwood conducts the crude/raw sap up to the leaves, and the photosynthesis transforms that into elaborated sap, that travel down the cambium. As the needles are still alive after a year, it's proof enough that the sapwood was not completely removed , the needles continue to receive raw sap, but the flow of the descending elaborated sap is cut out, so it is used to grow the bulge you showed in the video. It's the same principle used for air layer, cutting the cambium to have elaborated sap that will be used to produce roots.
As you said, a tree this young probably doesn't have much heartwood, indeed, so there should be little risk to remove all the sap wood. Removing all the sapwood would be the same as cutting the branch. If, as you say, there is little to no heartwood, there is low chances that someone following your tips would remove all the sapwood, killing the branch and weakening the tree.
Thank you so much, so I learnt something today too :)
Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it.
thx
No problem!
Hi Terry :) Great video - a huge amount of informations in a short amount of time.
Would it be possible to airlayer the escape branch at the same time while cutting that big groove around it? Or would that be contraproductive for the shohin (weakening it to much/slowing down its development)?
Hi Markus, thats a good question. I guess you could air layer it much higher up (remember that everything is removed on the sacrifice lower down) but to be honest I have thousands of pines and far too little time to bother with air layering which may or may not take and at the very least takes some years. You can make a cutting of the end too though and provided you can keep it hydrated it will root, I've seen that done too.
If I want to form a bigger pine tree, do I have to use the same technique in the video too? Or is it just for shohin? I have several seedlings but I have nowhere to start. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the comment. You will need to be specific about which technique you are referring to. Some are still applicable and others are not when growing larger trees.
Great video Terry. How old are the thickest of the pines. (7:00)
At what stage will you repot these pines and will you repot them into a bonsai pot?
Great little trees.
Thanks Stephen. I believe the oldest is now 5 years old, not more than 6 from seedling cutting. They were repotted a year ago so will need to repot them next spring (so every 2 years). I’ll probably keep them in these Marukou containers for a few more years. The goal would be in another 4 or 5 years to have some nice little Shohin, if all goes according to plan.
Thanks for the compliment! 🙇🏼♂️
great tips
Glad you think so! Thanks for commenting. 🙇🏼♂️
I'm curious: Why did you replace the top layer of organic soil with inorganic soil at the end? Thanks
Hi Andrew thanks for the question. What organic soil? I don't use organics in any of my soil.
@TerryErasmusbonsai Hi Terry, I went back and watched it again. The soil looked organic to me, and then you mentioned organic fertilizer, and I got a little confused. I understand now.
Thanks,
Andrew
@andrewd5148 no problem! Glad your question is sorted 👍🏻✅
Fantástico video, tus pinos reflejan buen cultivo y buena formación.
Un saludo 🖐️
Thanks so much for that comment, much appreciated 🙇🏼♂️
My question is after we cut the sacrifice branch the tree still develops taller?
Sure, you can make it taller. You should select another branch to continue the trunk line with though before you cut the sacrifice so you can strengthen this prior to cutting the sacrifice.
when is the best time for seedling cuttings?
Thanks for the question, best watch this video I did on the subject th-cam.com/video/0RpPCofdIFM/w-d-xo.html
i have a JBP growing from seed, only one survived out of 5. It's 3 months old and is only 1.5 inches high and has about 18 needles on it. It doesn't seem to be growing anymore? Should I give it fertilizer? Change the soil? I used a mix of potting soil, a bonsai mix and akadama.
I want this little tree to grow so bad it hurts. I'm not sure why the other ones died, it seemed like it just couldn't support itself and fell over. All this is new to me so I would appreciate any advice. I'm goin to try again very soon. Thanks
Thanks for the question. Sounds like you kept the seedlings too wet with that mix. It sounds like they died due to damping off. I use a 1:1 mix of akadama and crushed silica for young pines. They need to dry out a bit. Don’t fertilize a weak plant. Don’t change the soil unless it’s the right time of the year to do so. Adjust your watering and place it in full sun.
Thanks, will do @@TerryErasmusbonsai
Should strategic pruning be done in summer?
Great question! Yes for pines in development pretty much any time in summer, ideally very early summer.
Did i hear you say you don’t use sacrifice branches?
If so, i’m struggling to see how an ‘escape branch’ differs from a sacrifice branch?
Yes you heard correctly. I DONT use sacrificial branch/es for pines, but it used to be a technique employed in the past although no longer. I DO use an escape branch.... as shown in the video.
I believe the understanding of a sacrifice branch is that it is a branch and it grows out from the trunk generally horizontally taking a huge amount of area on a bench.
However an escape branch, at least in this context grows generally vertically and is the trunk, or at least originally it is because it could be a branch in the future which is grown roughly vertically.
You certainly can be forgiven for thinking they are the same thing, I get that completely.
However in the absence of better terms or a better definition that's what I have, together with the context and video images I think it should be pretty clear what I mean. 😉
I do hope you got something constructive out of the video though, other than just a little confusion.
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Thank you Sam! 🙏🏻
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Thanks Bruce 🙇🏼♂️
Thanks!
Thanks so much! Much appreciated