The wealth of knowledge you so freely share is nothing short of astounding. Especially helpful that my seasons are opposite yours, allowing me to take pages of notes to work through this coming growing season. I sure do appreciate you!
Thanks for your comment! That’s great that you’ve stuck with it so long. My memory of Florida having been there when I was younger, was that it remains warm all year round. I’ve always understood JBP need a dormancy period. Clearly I was mistaken.
This is exactly what I needed. Just started of with some black pine seedlings. It would be great if you could start a series of progress videos showing how that young root over rock pine progresses and develops along the way, as well the the techniques used to develop the said tree. Great information as always. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
My favorite part was your alternate technique for staggered decandling. I've seen many videos directing you to do the standard method of cutting the shorties first, to give them a head start for a week or two before decandling the strong candles. This was my first time seeing the recommendation of leaving a "die-back-stub" on the stronger candles. It makes perfect sense! I've never tried this technique, but it looks like a good method; especially for the hobbyist who only has the time to do their decandling in one sitting. Arigato gozaimasu!
In fact Patrick, in Japan you will see all sorts of variations on the techniques for decandling. I believe I just mentioned 2 of them. These two work for me and cover most instances. I think its always important to have multiple techniques to fall back on to so you have more than one tool for any job.
Wow, such an artist. Thank you for sharing your advice and secrets. I raise Japanese maples (all kinds) and have always wanted to try bosai, but I need to be more confident. Your videos are inspiring me. So explanatory. I think I will begin with a Black Pine. Thanks from Houston, TX!
Tom you are too kind. Thank you very much. Black pines are my favourite! There is a tremendous amount of literature and video on growing them. Start with seeds and follow through the entire process and learn along the way. You will have fun and learn all the way. Good luck Tom.
Thank you for putting out all these informative videos Terry! The Japanese red pine in this video is beautifull! Loving the bark! I don't have a pine in my collection yet. Will be adding one soon after this video👍
That’s great! Pines are a quintessential species for bonsai, in my humble opinion, provided of course they can grow where you live. I do have stock available which I release annually around tail end of winter, if that’s of interest. If you want something already largely developed (at a higher purchase price) then let me know as I import them fairly often.
You have an amazing talent to explain everything clearly and laconic. This channel is truly a bonsai gold mine. My most favorite style is roor over rock, I'm really hopping you will put some content on that subject.
Wow, thank you! I love ROR too and will definately feature it more. In fact I have been growing a number of pines in this style and they will need repotting in a few weeks so will feature that content here. Also, I am sure I will do more deciduous in this style. Thanks for the suggestion.
Excellent information regarding pines. In india ,pines are rarely selected for bonsai.I'm growing one since 6-7 years..Thank you for sharing these techniques, much helpful 👍
Great; the distinction on "stages of development" is particularly appreciated. I need similar instruction for junipers even tropicals and deciduous. Please??
@@roberthidalgo2088 thanks so much for the suggestion. I can definitely do that. The deciduous is easy as I have material of all stages. Look out for it in the future.
Great point Peter! I have a video for this in fact but it was not ready before, for posting. As soon as I can get it done I will post it. Thanks for the suggestion, you are most welcome to make such.
Thouroughly enjoyed this. While you've covered the maintenance of azaleas recently, is there a chance of a video detailing the techniques of growing and refining satsukis in the same way you did for pines in this video? I can't seem to find much material on it, and you have a great way of explaining things
Thank you for your comment. All the Satsuki that come through my hands are imported. I don’t usually import very raw material in this species but if an opportunity presents I will do my best to put something together.
Thank you very thorough and explicative on the stages. I struggle knowing when to repot developing trees, especially if sacrifice branches were used. I know pines can go some time without rootwork but have heard that repotting will strengthen tree also?
Thanks for the compliment Brian! You can repot developing trees more frequently (+-2 years) than older refined trees (+-5 or 6 years). There are many reasons for this though. Repotting itself temporarily weakens a tree it NEVER strengthens a tree. It however stimulates a tree into growing which will lead to a stronger tree. I would suggest some of the most important reasons you want to repot developing trees more frequently is to do the required root work (waiting too long encourages coarse roots) and to refresh the growing media which will provide more aeration at the rootzone and thus stimulate vigorous growth.
It's impressive how you explain everything, I've got to say that I'm struggling with the sacrificial branches on Japanese black pines. Have you got a guide/video with the steps to make/cut them? (mainly on how to cut them, but anything would help) I've killed some of my trees because of that and it is really stressing to make it again just knowing that probably I'll kill one more again 😔
Thank you Pascual! I don’t have such a video but I will do one when the timing is correct. I suspect you are either cutting off too much at once, too many branches at once or perhaps at the wrong time. It’s best to cut them off in stages so as not to disrupt sapflow too dramatically, in this way, in my experience the tree keeps growing like nothing happened.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thank you very much, it's really nice to have found this amazing channel, I'll try cutting those branches little by little now (mid winter - pre-spring) and see if I get lucky :) Thank you very much for your time, making the videos and responding. You're amazing!! :D
@@TerryErasmusbonsai You are welcome. I really like your philosophy of bonsai growing n maintaining which you do to a very high degree. Much respect from Kent, England.
Very informative!. Thanks Tony for sharing your knowledge. I do have three black pines and they seem to be doing okay but with information such as this,i know it is definitely going to help with it being better.
Quite literally the most informative video on JBP bonsai I ever watched. I love your videos, friend. Question: Would I be wrong to assume that growing JBP in a bonsai pot, even if you’re trying to thicken the trunk, as long as you have sacrificial branches? Thanks again, and greetings from Orlando, FL
Thanks so much William. Your question seems incomplete. I assume you meant to ask if you can develop mice JBP in a pot using those techniques. If yes then yes. If you want to develop larger trees then I’d suggest growing in the ground but certainly smaller trees are fine to develop in a container. Although it would be faster to do so in the ground, there is a risk of losing them when you dig them out. Hope it has cooled off there in Florida now. I visited there many years ago and remember the humidity was something else!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai I appreciate you taking time to respond to my question. You gave me the answer I needed and I appreciate it. I think I’ll stick to leaving it in the pot and going with the sacrificial branch. I honestly and sincerely care about this tree. Believe it or not, it hasn’t gotten any better here, just hotter and more humid. You would be surprised to know that Japanese black pine actually do very well here in Central Florida. Or you might not be surprised. Lol. I just made it a common practice to make sure I water my pine twice a day if the temperatures go over 95. I also keep about half of the roof base covered up with moss. Thanks again, Terry. I really appreciate your videos
Great knowledge on controlling growth . I live in Canada plant zone 4 so it gets very cold . Growing cold hardy pines native and from Europe and Japanese red. . Do you grow pines in the ground to develop or in large boxes specific how do you handle the roots to keep rootball manageable when dig up ie do you periodically dig up and replant Any advice on growing development of conifers in the ground would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Thanks for your question Matthew. I grow my pines in containers as it is much easier to manage the growth of the canopy and root system. I dont grow really large trees in this way, only smaller sized trees. For large trees you would need to grow them on in the ground, however its quite amazing what can be achieved in a container. The difference is that the container will take a lot longer, but what I like about that is that by the time you have developed the trunk etc then you have the bark to match. If developed quickly the bark is often rather juvenile in appearance. I do not feel I am qualified to give advice on growing conifers in the ground as its not something I use a lot of. However you will need to chop the roots of the tree in stages and bear in mind that there will always be risk when lifting the tree even if you do everything correctly.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thanks for answering. I to only grow pine in boxes easier. To protect in winter here . Do you have a feeding regime or advice . Especially for root development in root over rock and some planted over styrofoam in s hollow box for nebori development trees are in development so top growth is mostly sacrificial
I am not familiar with Mugo pine as its not a species we have here. All of them ie sacrifice branches, allowing the tree to build energy to produce buds etc I am almost certain you would be able to, but if its a single flush pine (which I believe it is???) then decandling is not an option.
You mention several times the importance of feeding pines. Can you please tell us what feed or feeds you use and how you typically apply it for the 3 stages of pine development. Thank you.
Thanks Chris. That’s a great question! However a proper answer deserves another video. In summary I use BonsaiBoost which is essential canola meal based solid fertiliser. I also use Seagro. www.bonsaitree.co.za/collections/fertilizers-and-baskets Young pines are aggressively fertilised right throughout the year, except winter. More developed trees are fed the same but not after decandling, for about 3 weeks or so. Refined pines might be fed a little lighter than the previous with a focus on fertiliser in autumn.
Yes and no. So what do you want to achieve please? Essentially the low branches yes to prevent them from becoming too coarse. Not the escape branch, that must extend uncut.
@Mitchell-y6u that’s right. Keep the low buds healthy but don’t allow them to develop into sacrifices. When you begin removing the escape branch you will find more energy transferring to this low growth and even a bunch new buds - provided the tree is growing very healthily.
Thanks, Terry, for this really informative presentation. I am a beginner who just bought a one-meter tall Austrian pine and would like to develop it into a bonsai form. Now, after watching the first part of your presentation, I assume that I should let the pyramidal-shape tree grow tall freely to get a big trunk, let it develop some buds in the lower part (now bare) and then after years cut it off as a sacrificial branch. Is that the recommended approach? I guess I should not do any bending or even wiring at thus stage (which is, however, what some bonsai enthusiasts suggest). Can I have some advise in this regard? Should I let it grow in a container? Thanks a lot.
Hello Taidic, thanks for reaching out. I believe I did answer your questions in the video, meaning that if you want to fatten the trunk you need to grow a sacrificial leader. Using wire to put bends into the tree now is a great idea both because it will give it movement without relying solely on trunk chops to introduce this, and "cage wiring" which means to allow the tree to press up against the wire and cut in, will actually accelerate trunk thickening. If you can grow in the ground that will be great but then remember to cut the roots back every 2 years or so. Otherwise a large container will also be good. Use a very open substrate which drains quickly and LOADS of organic fertilizer.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thank you very much, Terry. As I am very slowly picking up knowledge on bonsai from sources on the internet, I do very much look forward to watching more TH-cam videos from you. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Hi there I have a white pine question. I have a grafted white pine I think onto red pine just wondering if you have any tips for dealing with the ugly graft. I didn’t get her for bonsai at the stage of buying it ,it was a Christmas tree that year a very expensive one but looked great. Bottom of the graft is swelling top of the graft is kind of sitting in the bottom one. I haven’t heard anyone talking about this kind of issue. Another very informative video mate look forward to many more in the future, also wondering if you send things to Australia mainly tools and the good quality kind I’m so sick of paying good money for crap tools and way to much for under par.
Hi William. It must be a Miyajima Goyomatsu which is a grafted white pine, however the base must be a Japanese black pine, not red pine. There isnt any technique that I am aware of. You get good specimens and not so good specimens. After many years the graft does become less visible but I am not sure that there are any techniques to aid the process. Regards the tools etc, yes we can. However it only pays to order better quality as we only use DHL Express to deliver which of course comes at a premium. Mail me if you wish to discuss this further: info@bonsaitree.co.za
Hey Terry, I was wondering what to do with the main trunk (the one that grows straight up from a seedling) after I took a seedling cutting. I'm hoping to make a Neagari style Shohin Pine, and I'm aiming for a tree around 6 inches in height. Should I treat the main trunk like an escape branch or should I prune it off immediately? Thanks so much :)
Uhm Elbie, there really isn’t a best time. I would cut when I’m styling so autumn is good. However I assume you have actively growing buds which are strong enough to cut back to right?
@@TerryErasmusbonsai unfortunately not (yet) ... going to aim to increase the vigor of the branches, wait for back buds to develop and then cut back to when they are strong enough.
It is best to use organic solid fertilizers. Something which is canola or rapeseed based. I don’t know what you have access to where you live so difficult for me to make a specific suggestion. Liquid organic from fish meal is also good used weekly or every 2 weeks. Well balanced chemical granular fertilizers in low doses is ok but you can easily use too much, it also can kill mycorrhiza in pines.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai I'm here California, U.S.A. I don't want to use any fertilizer because I'm new, my plants might die.i'm new on to what you guy's say "Bonsai" i didn't even take class about Bonsai. I just watched videos on TH-cam on what you guy's do on those plants & now i bought some nursery stock plants, thanks again.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai kindly please give me a couple of names of Juniper and Pine plants fertilizer so i'll look for them, maybe i can order on line. Thank you.
Hi Terry, some people shorten the needles even in stage 2. Is this detrimental to the tree? I mean the tree has enough sunlight going into the inner buds. Thanks
Hi David. Good question. First permit me to say that there are MANY different ways to grow pines, I can only present the methods I have been taught but certainly do not mean to suggest that's the only way. Cutting needles are part of balancing the energy. So if you have very long and very short needles and you are plucking needles then 2 long needles are not equal to 2 short needles and some compensation is required. However this is for refined trees. When in development I can only imagine why one would cut the needles in an area of the tree which you wish to keep is to get more sunlight into the interior and stimulate buds there. If sufficient sunlight is getting in, then cutting the needles will simply weaken the tree which would be counterproductive - however perhaps I am not understanding exactly what the other persons aim was.
I am sorry but I couldn’t say. I don’t think so as a neagari style though. I suspect just a field grown pine with lots of roots being exposed over many years of successive repotting.
Thanks for asking Hans. Well I have been around bonsai for many years but it was in 2012 when I first began learning in Japan that I really started to grow bonsai. I was privileged to be able to learn from Mr Junichiro Tanaka at AichiEn nursery. Since then I have made multiple trips to Japan annually, pre-COVID to learn from him and others such as Mr Koji Hiramatsu, Mr Matsuo Matsuda. However I have gained much insight from several western artists who were originally Japanese trained too. I am too old {read independent}, have a family and a business, so full time apprenticeship was and will never be possible. I must also add that gaining new knowledge about bonsai is one thing but it must be applied, repeatedly and one must learn from the results and improve. I will continue to do this till the end.
Good question! Please take a look at my blog as the answer needs some context and to be properly explained. www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/tagged/japanese-black-pine
At the right time of the year it’s not a problem at all to bare root a young tree like that, or even a few years older. When it’s a lot older is when it becomes more risky to do so.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
The wealth of knowledge you so freely share is nothing short of astounding. Especially helpful that my seasons are opposite yours, allowing me to take pages of notes to work through this coming growing season. I sure do appreciate you!
Wow, thank you. Your comment about the seasons is something I had not considered before. I guess I forget there is a global audience sometimes.
33 yrs. in Bonsai and now mostly just grow JBP's. Loved and Subbed. Here in Florida JBP's are amazing growers!
Thanks for your comment! That’s great that you’ve stuck with it so long. My memory of Florida having been there when I was younger, was that it remains warm all year round. I’ve always understood JBP need a dormancy period. Clearly I was mistaken.
Great video, great tiered concept...thank you for showing all phases and for your time!
Glad you like the concept! I am grateful for your comment.
This is absolutely the best video I have found about pines. Saved, liked and subscribed.
Awesome, thank you! Wow!
This is exactly what I needed. Just started of with some black pine seedlings. It would be great if you could start a series of progress videos showing how that young root over rock pine progresses and develops along the way, as well the the techniques used to develop the said tree. Great information as always. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks so much Shaun for watching. I definitely plan to act on your suggestion. Look out for future videos on it.
My favorite part was your alternate technique for staggered decandling. I've seen many videos directing you to do the standard method of cutting the shorties first, to give them a head start for a week or two before decandling the strong candles. This was my first time seeing the recommendation of leaving a "die-back-stub" on the stronger candles. It makes perfect sense! I've never tried this technique, but it looks like a good method; especially for the hobbyist who only has the time to do their decandling in one sitting. Arigato gozaimasu!
In fact Patrick, in Japan you will see all sorts of variations on the techniques for decandling. I believe I just mentioned 2 of them. These two work for me and cover most instances. I think its always important to have multiple techniques to fall back on to so you have more than one tool for any job.
Wow, such an artist. Thank you for sharing your advice and secrets. I raise Japanese maples (all kinds) and have always wanted to try bosai, but I need to be more confident. Your videos are inspiring me. So explanatory. I think I will begin with a Black Pine. Thanks from Houston, TX!
Tom you are too kind. Thank you very much. Black pines are my favourite! There is a tremendous amount of literature and video on growing them. Start with seeds and follow through the entire process and learn along the way. You will have fun and learn all the way. Good luck Tom.
Thank you so much Terry for all these advices ...it's so precious to develop the culture of our trees..🙏🙏🤗
Thanks Rico. Makes me very happy to know when people appreciate the information. 🙏🏻
Thank you for putting out all these informative videos Terry!
The Japanese red pine in this video is beautifull! Loving the bark! I don't have a pine in my collection yet. Will be adding one soon after this video👍
That’s great! Pines are a quintessential species for bonsai, in my humble opinion, provided of course they can grow where you live. I do have stock available which I release annually around tail end of winter, if that’s of interest. If you want something already largely developed (at a higher purchase price) then let me know as I import them fairly often.
You have an amazing talent to explain everything clearly and laconic. This channel is truly a bonsai gold mine.
My most favorite style is roor over rock, I'm really hopping you will put some content on that subject.
Wow, thank you! I love ROR too and will definately feature it more. In fact I have been growing a number of pines in this style and they will need repotting in a few weeks so will feature that content here. Also, I am sure I will do more deciduous in this style. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai omg, i can't wait!!! 😄
I really started to use your channel for reference of good bonsai practice.
Excellent information regarding pines. In india ,pines are rarely selected for bonsai.I'm growing one since 6-7 years..Thank you for sharing these techniques, much helpful 👍
Great; the distinction on "stages of development" is particularly appreciated. I need similar instruction for junipers even tropicals and deciduous. Please??
@@roberthidalgo2088 thanks so much for the suggestion. I can definitely do that. The deciduous is easy as I have material of all stages. Look out for it in the future.
As always, great video with tons of advices. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
The video was really helpful, but as a beginner it would also have helpful to see the actual process of a) needle plucking and b) de-candling
Great point Peter! I have a video for this in fact but it was not ready before, for posting. As soon as I can get it done I will post it. Thanks for the suggestion, you are most welcome to make such.
Outstanding, Terry
Thank you kindly 🙇🏼♂️
Thouroughly enjoyed this. While you've covered the maintenance of azaleas recently, is there a chance of a video detailing the techniques of growing and refining satsukis in the same way you did for pines in this video? I can't seem to find much material on it, and you have a great way of explaining things
Thank you for your comment. All the Satsuki that come through my hands are imported. I don’t usually import very raw material in this species but if an opportunity presents I will do my best to put something together.
Thank you very thorough and explicative on the stages. I struggle knowing when to repot developing trees, especially if sacrifice branches were used. I know pines can go some time without rootwork but have heard that repotting will strengthen tree also?
Thanks for the compliment Brian! You can repot developing trees more frequently (+-2 years) than older refined trees (+-5 or 6 years). There are many reasons for this though. Repotting itself temporarily weakens a tree it NEVER strengthens a tree. It however stimulates a tree into growing which will lead to a stronger tree. I would suggest some of the most important reasons you want to repot developing trees more frequently is to do the required root work (waiting too long encourages coarse roots) and to refresh the growing media which will provide more aeration at the rootzone and thus stimulate vigorous growth.
Terry you are the man! Thanks so much for these videos and keep them coming.
Thanks so much Peter!
Your videos are very helpful to a newbie like me thank you.
Happy to hear that Randy!
It's impressive how you explain everything, I've got to say that I'm struggling with the sacrificial branches on Japanese black pines. Have you got a guide/video with the steps to make/cut them? (mainly on how to cut them, but anything would help) I've killed some of my trees because of that and it is really stressing to make it again just knowing that probably I'll kill one more again 😔
Thank you Pascual! I don’t have such a video but I will do one when the timing is correct. I suspect you are either cutting off too much at once, too many branches at once or perhaps at the wrong time. It’s best to cut them off in stages so as not to disrupt sapflow too dramatically, in this way, in my experience the tree keeps growing like nothing happened.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thank you very much, it's really nice to have found this amazing channel, I'll try cutting those branches little by little now (mid winter - pre-spring) and see if I get lucky :)
Thank you very much for your time, making the videos and responding. You're amazing!! :D
You are a legend I have learnt a lot from you which I thank you for. Much respect from Kent.
I appreciate that, thanks Tyler!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai You are welcome. I really like your philosophy of bonsai growing n maintaining which you do to a very high degree. Much respect from Kent, England.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the public, you have awesome trees and skills!
Thank you very much Emile! That is so generous of you to say.
As usual, very clean and informative video: thank you !
Glad you liked it Bruno!
Very informative!. Thanks Tony for sharing your knowledge. I do have three black pines and they seem to be doing okay but with information such as this,i know it is definitely going to help with it being better.
Wow Lennie, thanks great! Pines are so awesome.
Quite literally the most informative video on JBP bonsai I ever watched. I love your videos, friend.
Question: Would I be wrong to assume that growing JBP in a bonsai pot, even if you’re trying to thicken the trunk, as long as you have sacrificial branches?
Thanks again, and greetings from Orlando, FL
Thanks so much William. Your question seems incomplete. I assume you meant to ask if you can develop mice JBP in a pot using those techniques. If yes then yes. If you want to develop larger trees then I’d suggest growing in the ground but certainly smaller trees are fine to develop in a container. Although it would be faster to do so in the ground, there is a risk of losing them when you dig them out.
Hope it has cooled off there in Florida now. I visited there many years ago and remember the humidity was something else!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai I appreciate you taking time to respond to my question. You gave me the answer I needed and I appreciate it. I think I’ll stick to leaving it in the pot and going with the sacrificial branch. I honestly and sincerely care about this tree. Believe it or not, it hasn’t gotten any better here, just hotter and more humid. You would be surprised to know that Japanese black pine actually do very well here in Central Florida. Or you might not be surprised. Lol. I just made it a common practice to make sure I water my pine twice a day if the temperatures go over 95. I also keep about half of the roof base covered up with moss. Thanks again, Terry. I really appreciate your videos
Also, you are correct. What happened to the rest of my question? 😂
Excellent video and great lessons!!! Thank you! I hope to watch a lot of your videos this year.
Glad you like them!
As always great educational videos Sensei!
Thanks so much Daniel. 🙇🏼♂️
Great video and well explained. I have put it on my bonsai club Facebook page. Keep up the great work
Awesome, thank you Mark, thats very kind of you!
Great video. To me black pines are totally alien and this was very helpful. 🙏
That’s great Jason! Glad it helped clear up some of the extra terrestrial. 👽
Thanks a lot Terry. Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it Gerrit!
Great knowledge on controlling growth . I live in Canada plant zone 4 so it gets very cold . Growing cold hardy pines native and from Europe and Japanese red. . Do you grow pines in the ground to develop or in large boxes specific how do you handle the roots to keep rootball manageable when dig up ie do you periodically dig up and replant Any advice on growing development of conifers in the ground would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Thanks for your question Matthew. I grow my pines in containers as it is much easier to manage the growth of the canopy and root system. I dont grow really large trees in this way, only smaller sized trees. For large trees you would need to grow them on in the ground, however its quite amazing what can be achieved in a container. The difference is that the container will take a lot longer, but what I like about that is that by the time you have developed the trunk etc then you have the bark to match. If developed quickly the bark is often rather juvenile in appearance. I do not feel I am qualified to give advice on growing conifers in the ground as its not something I use a lot of. However you will need to chop the roots of the tree in stages and bear in mind that there will always be risk when lifting the tree even if you do everything correctly.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thanks for answering. I to only grow pine in boxes easier. To protect in winter here . Do you have a feeding regime or advice . Especially for root development in root over rock and some planted over styrofoam in s hollow box for nebori development trees are in development so top growth is mostly sacrificial
Most helpful video I’ve seen! Thank you 🙏
Thanks so much Finlay!
Wow! So much wonderful information! Thank you so much!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching.
Really great video with much information, thank you.
Can these techniques also used on mugo pines?
I am not familiar with Mugo pine as its not a species we have here. All of them ie sacrifice branches, allowing the tree to build energy to produce buds etc I am almost certain you would be able to, but if its a single flush pine (which I believe it is???) then decandling is not an option.
You mention several times the importance of feeding pines. Can you please tell us what feed or feeds you use and how you typically apply it for the 3 stages of pine development. Thank you.
Thanks Chris. That’s a great question! However a proper answer deserves another video. In summary I use BonsaiBoost which is essential canola meal based solid fertiliser. I also use Seagro.
www.bonsaitree.co.za/collections/fertilizers-and-baskets
Young pines are aggressively fertilised right throughout the year, except winter. More developed trees are fed the same but not after decandling, for about 3 weeks or so. Refined pines might be fed a little lighter than the previous with a focus on fertiliser in autumn.
I really want the second tree!!
Where do you live?
@@TerryErasmusbonsai USA :(
@@TerryErasmusbonsai If you can ship this, I honestly would be very interested.
Thx a million for sharing your knowledge!!!
Hey Terry, great videos, should you prune pine candles of a shohin pine in development? Thanks Mitchell
Yes and no. So what do you want to achieve please? Essentially the low branches yes to prevent them from becoming too coarse. Not the escape branch, that must extend uncut.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai I want to achieve a thick trunk low base shohin tree, should I leave one candle going straight up?😀
@Mitchell-y6u that’s right. Keep the low buds healthy but don’t allow them to develop into sacrifices. When you begin removing the escape branch you will find more energy transferring to this low growth and even a bunch new buds - provided the tree is growing very healthily.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thanks
Thanks, Terry, for this really informative presentation. I am a beginner who just bought a one-meter tall Austrian pine and would like to develop it into a bonsai form. Now, after watching the first part of your presentation, I assume that I should let the pyramidal-shape tree grow tall freely to get a big trunk, let it develop some buds in the lower part (now bare) and then after years cut it off as a sacrificial branch. Is that the recommended approach? I guess I should not do any bending or even wiring at thus stage (which is, however, what some bonsai enthusiasts suggest). Can I have some advise in this regard? Should I let it grow in a container? Thanks a lot.
Hello Taidic, thanks for reaching out. I believe I did answer your questions in the video, meaning that if you want to fatten the trunk you need to grow a sacrificial leader. Using wire to put bends into the tree now is a great idea both because it will give it movement without relying solely on trunk chops to introduce this, and "cage wiring" which means to allow the tree to press up against the wire and cut in, will actually accelerate trunk thickening. If you can grow in the ground that will be great but then remember to cut the roots back every 2 years or so. Otherwise a large container will also be good. Use a very open substrate which drains quickly and LOADS of organic fertilizer.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai Thank you very much, Terry. As I am very slowly picking up knowledge on bonsai from sources on the internet, I do very much look forward to watching more TH-cam videos from you. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
I want to have a pine bonsai but unfortunately in my place it is very difficult to get sunlight
That is indeed a pity, they definitely like their sun!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai thank you sir
Hi there I have a white pine question. I have a grafted white pine I think onto red pine just wondering if you have any tips for dealing with the ugly graft. I didn’t get her for bonsai at the stage of buying it ,it was a Christmas tree that year a very expensive one but looked great. Bottom of the graft is swelling top of the graft is kind of sitting in the bottom one. I haven’t heard anyone talking about this kind of issue. Another very informative video mate look forward to many more in the future, also wondering if you send things to Australia mainly tools and the good quality kind I’m so sick of paying good money for crap tools and way to much for under par.
Hi William. It must be a Miyajima Goyomatsu which is a grafted white pine, however the base must be a Japanese black pine, not red pine. There isnt any technique that I am aware of. You get good specimens and not so good specimens. After many years the graft does become less visible but I am not sure that there are any techniques to aid the process. Regards the tools etc, yes we can. However it only pays to order better quality as we only use DHL Express to deliver which of course comes at a premium. Mail me if you wish to discuss this further: info@bonsaitree.co.za
Excellent info
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this element video
You are so welcome Arben!
Hey Terry, I was wondering what to do with the main trunk (the one that grows straight up from a seedling) after I took a seedling cutting. I'm hoping to make a Neagari style Shohin Pine, and I'm aiming for a tree around 6 inches in height. Should I treat the main trunk like an escape branch or should I prune it off immediately? Thanks so much :)
You should keep the branch as an escape for as long as possible while you think the trunk, then remove it. Not before.
Nice explanation 🙏
Great! Glad you enjoyed it.
Hi Terry, is there a specific time of the year when it would be best to do the cut backs? ... to correct "leggy" branches.
Uhm Elbie, there really isn’t a best time. I would cut when I’m styling so autumn is good. However I assume you have actively growing buds which are strong enough to cut back to right?
@@TerryErasmusbonsai unfortunately not (yet) ... going to aim to increase the vigor of the branches, wait for back buds to develop and then cut back to when they are strong enough.
Very interesting video!👏👏👏👏
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent. Thanks 👍
You are welcome!
Beautiful!
🙇🏼♂️
I have some young Pine & a couple of Juniper plants, what kind of fertilizer should I use?, thanks.
It is best to use organic solid fertilizers. Something which is canola or rapeseed based. I don’t know what you have access to where you live so difficult for me to make a specific suggestion. Liquid organic from fish meal is also good used weekly or every 2 weeks. Well balanced chemical granular fertilizers in low doses is ok but you can easily use too much, it also can kill mycorrhiza in pines.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai I'm here California, U.S.A. I don't want to use any fertilizer because I'm new, my plants might die.i'm new on to what you guy's say "Bonsai" i didn't even take class about Bonsai. I just watched videos on TH-cam on what you guy's do on those plants & now i bought some nursery stock plants, thanks again.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai kindly please give me a couple of names of Juniper and Pine plants fertilizer so i'll look for them, maybe i can order on line. Thank you.
Hi Terry, some people shorten the needles even in stage 2. Is this detrimental to the tree? I mean the tree has enough sunlight going into the inner buds. Thanks
Hi David. Good question. First permit me to say that there are MANY different ways to grow pines, I can only present the methods I have been taught but certainly do not mean to suggest that's the only way. Cutting needles are part of balancing the energy. So if you have very long and very short needles and you are plucking needles then 2 long needles are not equal to 2 short needles and some compensation is required. However this is for refined trees. When in development I can only imagine why one would cut the needles in an area of the tree which you wish to keep is to get more sunlight into the interior and stimulate buds there. If sufficient sunlight is getting in, then cutting the needles will simply weaken the tree which would be counterproductive - however perhaps I am not understanding exactly what the other persons aim was.
Thanks for the explanation. Thanks for the informative videos that you post. I learn a lot from them.
Like your channel ..good job.
Thank you so much Lily 😃
I can't seem to grow a black pine. They just die. Please give me some of you expert advice. 🙏
Hi Lee. Thanks for commenting. Sure, I will try to help. Where do you live in the world?
Thank you, terry. Im in the uk.
Would the third tree have likely started out as an exposed root tree with much of the exposed root base fusing over time?
I am sorry but I couldn’t say. I don’t think so as a neagari style though. I suspect just a field grown pine with lots of roots being exposed over many years of successive repotting.
I have a question Terry. Did you went to Japan and learned from a bonsai master or did you get all your skills in a other way?
Thanks for asking Hans. Well I have been around bonsai for many years but it was in 2012 when I first began learning in Japan that I really started to grow bonsai. I was privileged to be able to learn from Mr Junichiro Tanaka at AichiEn nursery. Since then I have made multiple trips to Japan annually, pre-COVID to learn from him and others such as Mr Koji Hiramatsu, Mr Matsuo Matsuda. However I have gained much insight from several western artists who were originally Japanese trained too. I am too old {read independent}, have a family and a business, so full time apprenticeship was and will never be possible.
I must also add that gaining new knowledge about bonsai is one thing but it must be applied, repeatedly and one must learn from the results and improve. I will continue to do this till the end.
Best time to remove needle and decandle?
Good question! Please take a look at my blog as the answer needs some context and to be properly explained. www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/tagged/japanese-black-pine
Thanks for you time Vere well expelled
You are very welcome
Can I bare root a 1 Yr pine seeding for a root over rock style ? I've heard , u should never bare root these plants..thanks
At the right time of the year it’s not a problem at all to bare root a young tree like that, or even a few years older. When it’s a lot older is when it becomes more risky to do so.
I thought the top of tree development is first vs the bottom grows last 🤔
Cut top first /middle/ bottom last.
Thank you. Can you please confirm what specifically you are referring to with this comment?
Like, thank you.
Thank you too!
love the shirt! :-)
Ha ha thank you, hope you like the bonsai too though 😉
Much better at 1.5x speed.
At least you watched it and I’m sure my voice at higher speed added some humour.
Bom dia, Flor do dia!
Thank you, but I am not sure i understand what you mean.
Well done, cheers!
Thank you. 🙏🏻