I thought it was just me when I looked at the instructions. I do like the line on them now, makes lining them up much better. I think they changed the couplers the first of the year. I bought one of the new ones in the spring, I think it was March. You did a much better how to video than I did.
Hey Rob I know this is an old video but, just wanted you to know... I have a few of these myself and the video helped out tremendously!! Once wired correctly they work great! I'm also using the blue panel mount LED you spec out here,
Thaaaaank you. I thought I was the only one. They make it sound easy... they did change it. the connector on the bottom hung like a tail off the connector. not much of a change.
Be very careful of the wiring on the DPDT switch. The one I was experimenting with the wires broke off, and were a pain to reattach. Otherwise it worked well. But as said in video I have also seen two versions on the factory wiring. Have not installed it in one of my tables yet but look forward to seeing how well it will work on a Free-MO Table. With that said the install instructions, and wire diagram lack clarity. Your video has cleared up some question. Will post more after I get time to play with the one I bought.
I am assuming from comments I read that this is an old video, but thing works well. However I am confused about the magnetic itself. It seems to be a permanent magnet that a electrical coil is used to rotate it to uncouple cars? And off rotates it 90 degrees out of alignment. So is it basically just a bar magnet gets rotated in and out of alignment, by an electrical coil?
There are probably some ferrous metal parts in the housing which have been magnetized by the electromagnet. That should be the source of the unpowered magnetism.
Rob, saw a TH-cam clip on connecting these to JMRI and throwing them with the computer as well, using a DPDT relay and accessory decoder, worth a thought maybe, yet again another awesome vid :), been looking at these for years but been hesitant to try them until now, woot
Hi Stephen, that looks like a lot of work to me. I put in 4 wholes under the track, 4 ties apart, 2 neodym magnets 8mm each stacked up in 2`s, works like a charme. NO cables no giant wholes. While I´m at it, how did the odyssy end with that Fleischmann steamer with gear problem. I think, everybody who envolves himself in giving advice would like to get some deedback. Karl from Germany
Karl- I have seen the use of those small magnets, in fact I even bought some. I still may use them, but wanted to try these Rapido ones. As to the Fleischmann steamer- I got replacement gears but still haven't taken the time to install them! I am hoping they fix the issue as I really like that lok.
Yes. I understand their DPDT switch..with the potential of an operator walking away and coming back later to a molten pile of melted plastic(or fire)..You know that coil is going to get hot the longer its energized...thats why I asked about a momentary contact switch.
There are a few still hanging on- nearest one to me is in Ashtabula, Ohio. I have purchased some items from their website. Too bad, I liked those stores!
Well, there was a brief cameo in the Shorty Parker cab ride video. I am still planning a 10K video where I will just chat, answer questions, pontificate on life, etc but still haven't gotten around to it!
Why do they have a double pole, double throw switch wired to reverse polarity when all it does is turn the electromagnet on and off? Ridiculously over-complicated.
The pinouts are reversed between the two version so use the correct instructions. If you go to big on the gauge of wire it will fall out of the connector. If you have portable modules it's a pain. I like the old version with the pigtail because you can cut the quick connect off and solder everything. I agree with you the wiring diagram could use some help. I love the uncoupler otherwise.
Yeah, my understanding is the switch just flips the position of the poles. In fact, I suspect it could be left "on" as all that really means is that the magnets were moved and the blue LED would stay on. I don't think it would hurt anything, but then every time you ran over it the couplers would move.
With magnets permanently mounted under the track you can have unwanted uncoupling if you get slack in the couplers. Especially bad if the uncoupler is on the mainline.
I thought it was just me when I looked at the instructions. I do like the line on them now, makes lining them up much better. I think they changed the couplers the first of the year. I bought one of the new ones in the spring, I think it was March. You did a much better how to video than I did.
Scott- I liked your video, thought it was well done. I didn't realize Rapido had changed these, but obviously some "tweaks" have been made.
Hey Rob I know this is an old video but, just wanted you to know... I have a few of these myself and the video helped out tremendously!! Once wired correctly they work great! I'm also using the blue panel mount LED you spec out here,
Yes sir, glad you stayed with the blue. It just fits.
wow those are real nice I'll have to check them out...Thank You for deciphering the wiring diagram, i always have trouble with that...Thanks Tom
Thaaaaank you. I thought I was the only one. They make it sound easy...
they did change it. the connector on the bottom hung like a tail off the connector. not much of a change.
Just installed one. Works great! Wiring is the same as yours.
Be very careful of the wiring on the DPDT switch. The one I was experimenting with the wires broke off, and were a pain to reattach. Otherwise it worked well. But as said in video I have also seen two versions on the factory wiring. Have not installed it in one of my tables yet but look forward to seeing how well it will work on a Free-MO Table. With that said the install instructions, and wire diagram lack clarity. Your video has cleared up some question.
Will post more after I get time to play with the one I bought.
I am assuming from comments I read that this is an old video, but thing works well. However I am confused about the magnetic itself. It seems to be a permanent magnet that a electrical coil is used to rotate it to uncouple cars? And off rotates it 90 degrees out of alignment. So is it basically just a bar magnet gets rotated in and out of alignment, by an electrical coil?
There are probably some ferrous metal parts in the housing which have been magnetized by the electromagnet. That should be the source of the unpowered magnetism.
Tell it like you see it ...... thanks for the input ...
LOL! do they work on the cars?? Thanks so much for your videos, I learn so much just by seeing how you wire things!!
Rob, saw a TH-cam clip on connecting these to JMRI and throwing them with the computer as well, using a DPDT relay and accessory decoder, worth a thought maybe, yet again another awesome vid :), been looking at these for years but been hesitant to try them until now, woot
Very cool .. I wonder if those are too strong for n scale? Do you have a video on the making of your control panel?
Love the videos. Is wiring devices like this that complex?
Hi Stephen, that looks like a lot of work to me. I put in 4 wholes under the track, 4 ties apart, 2 neodym magnets 8mm each stacked up in 2`s,
works like a charme. NO cables no giant wholes. While I´m at it, how did the odyssy end with that Fleischmann steamer with gear problem.
I think, everybody who envolves himself in giving advice would like to get some deedback. Karl from Germany
Karl- I have seen the use of those small magnets, in fact I even bought some. I still may use them, but wanted to try these Rapido ones. As to the Fleischmann steamer- I got replacement gears but still haven't taken the time to install them! I am hoping they fix the issue as I really like that lok.
so the biggest thing i got from this video is the rapido is always drawing power. just switches the magnetic poles 90 degrees. ?
when are you posting part 2 showing 'em working ;)
Why would they not just install an electro magnet? Or just install magnets under the track running parallel?
Most electro magnets for uncoupling cannot take being turned on for long periods. By using a permanent magnet you don't have that limitation.
If you forget to turn it off...Will it burn out the coil?
Good question...I am not sure! But this is important to know- maybe someone smart will be able to answer.
If all your doing is energizing the magnet..Why can't you use momentary push button switches?
That is what Rapido is doing- the switch provided is a DPDT (ON)-OFF-(ON).
Yes. I understand their DPDT switch..with the potential of an operator walking away and coming back later to a molten pile of melted plastic(or fire)..You know that coil is going to get hot the longer its energized...thats why I asked about a momentary contact switch.
Interesting..
Radio shack is still around , I believe here in MN they all closed .. But I could be wrong
There are a few still hanging on- nearest one to me is in Ashtabula, Ohio. I have purchased some items from their website. Too bad, I liked those stores!
thank you for detail video on the build of layout
Do you have video of yourself in any of your episodes? I have in my head what you look like. Which of coarse is totally wrong.
Well, there was a brief cameo in the Shorty Parker cab ride video. I am still planning a 10K video where I will just chat, answer questions, pontificate on life, etc but still haven't gotten around to it!
You are a lot younger than i pictured you.
Why do they have a double pole, double throw switch wired to reverse polarity when all it does is turn the electromagnet on and off? Ridiculously over-complicated.
Not sure, I suppose that is a question best answered by Rapido. I'm just tryin' em out.
It is not an electromagnet. It is a permanent magnet that rotates when the switch is thrown.
It would have been nice if you had uncoupled a set of cars to show that it actually worked.
The pinouts are reversed between the two version so use the correct instructions. If you go to big on the gauge of wire it will fall out of the connector. If you have portable modules it's a pain. I like the old version with the pigtail because you can cut the quick connect off and solder everything. I agree with you the wiring diagram could use some help. I love the uncoupler otherwise.
Omg
You have to be an Elementary Engineer
Omg
What a PTIA
or if i watched longer, lol. you did turn it off, so, some how it rotates the magnet.
Yeah, my understanding is the switch just flips the position of the poles. In fact, I suspect it could be left "on" as all that really means is that the magnets were moved and the blue LED would stay on. I don't think it would hurt anything, but then every time you ran over it the couplers would move.
I use two neodymium magnets under the rails for uncoupler, much cheaper and the effect is the same. It is better to have a Kadee couplers
With magnets permanently mounted under the track you can have unwanted uncoupling if you get slack in the couplers. Especially bad if the uncoupler is on the mainline.
One of the most boring presentations I have seen in a while. I made it to the 5 minute mark before leaving.