Drafting a Pant Sloper - Testing Out Three Pattern Drafting Systems
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- Let's keep battling pattern drafting systems against one another with probably the hardest challenge of them all, pants. In this video I will be comparing three pattern drafting system's abilities in drafting flat pant patterns. The three books I will be working with today are Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong, Patternmaking by Dennic Chunman Lo, and Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear by Winifred Aldrich. I go through the entire process from measurments, cutting, stitching, and finally fitting so that you can get a taste of what each of these pattern cutting systems has to offer.
0:00-4:28 Intro
4:28-9:53 Drafting the patterns
9:53-10:22 Sewing the mockup
10:22-13:40 Fitting
13:40-15:41 Final thoughts
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★ Books in this Video ★
Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong
Patternmaking by Dennic Chunman Lo
Metric Patterncutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you for making these videos - I can see it's a lot of work and time you put in but the content is super helpful. I love that you compared different systems and help me (as someone new to drafting my own patterns) make more educated decisions about which books and systems to purchase and use. Job well done! I wish you had more videos but understand creating these videos is difficult and time-consuming and it's not easy for them to be profitable on youtube as a newer/smaller channel.
Thank you very much for your kind words! I am so glad that you like my videos!
Wow! You put so much work into this video and it was really informative! Thank you!!
This is the best channel. I am loving your videos on drafting and just can't get enough. I have been taking a pattern cutting class from "Project Patterns" and I'm loving it. And to me, metric is so much easier to use when drafting anything. Please keep your awesome videos coming. I know you are busy and going to school and such, but I am learning so much just watching your videos. Thank you so much for doing all that you do.
These are seriously intelligent and helpful videos. Thank you!
Regarding drawing curves, I see you in the video drawing them basically from a birds-eye view.
Instead draw them from the inside of the curve, make your elbow the pivot point that your hand and pencil will rotate around. For complicated curves like for the crotch, draw a bit from one pivot point and than move your elbow (and whole body). You could even rest your elbow on the table. That allows for a much more natural way to draw curves
These videos are sooooo helpful ! You’re a legend
Thank you! I’m so glad that you like them!
Very interesting learning for anyone new to pattern drafting. Thank you
Thank you, your VDO very helpful to choose the best system for me , I’m stuck very long time with choosing the system, I’m lazy to test by myself. For me I like Dennic chunman lo system .
This video is incredible!! Thanks for your dedication 😍
Thank you so much!
This was so incredibly helpful. Thank you!
Great information!! Well done!
An excellent video! Thanks for doing this, fascinating. The Chuman Lo pants look wonderful on you.
Thank you so much!!
I appreciate your video!! This could not have come at a better time for me. I’m working on a pant sloper as well. I’m struggling with fit. I’m looking forward to your next video.
What good timing!! May your pant sloper fit perfectly!
The Dritz Styling Design ruler is great. I prefer it over my other french curves.
I would love to see how you approach patterning from clothing you already have
Really great work thx
Thank you so much, the video is very useful
Excellent video and you have done a hard work .. looking forward for the next .. please make some adjustments or alteration videos or any books you recommend . And draping and Manny more ( just suggestions) 😊
Thank you very much! I will definitely be doing videos on all of those topics in the near future ☺️
I would love to see a video series on altering sloper templates
Foley I love you.
I love you foley
Use a steel fairgate curve ruler for hips curves.
Hello! I jave the first 2 books you mentioned. I am making patterns for dolls, not people for now anyway. The problem I have with these books is it will say add 3/4" here and 1 1/2 " there which I know came from a chart for people. How do I figure out what measures to put here for dolls? I am making the pants sloper using the first book you mentioned right now. Thanks!
Do any of these three books contain drafting instructions for both men's and women's pants? Great video, thanks!
Follow Mrs Armstrong s pant pattern..it is correct. I studied with her; then went to Germany, Munich-ThE best design school- Muller und Sons- !! Go there! After you finish there, you will not have any questions..!!good luck..!!!
The Dennic Chunman Lo blocks seem to be the best fit all round. With some rewritten instructions, it sounds like the book to get. Does it have mens patterns or are they unisex?
Hi Foley, I've come across your video because I was drafting an Armstrong block and couldn't figure out where she takes the numbers for drafting the waist from. As I was writing this comment I realised what happened. The text instructions do not correspond to the illustration. She writes to account for darts calculated for 28cm hip/waist difference and in the drawing those for 25cm hip/waist difference are shown. Maybe this caused your waist to be so large?
Interesting idea to compare pattern drafting systems but can you include the natalie bray pattern drafting system
Thank you
Thank you! I have added the book you reccomended to the list of potential systems for me to test in the future! I unfortunatly dont have it in my collection currently!
Hey great video ! Can you also make men’s pants from these patterns or do you need a different system to do it ?
Thank you! Some of these books do include information on how to draft clothing for men, Patterndrafting for fashion by Helen Joseph Armstrong has a section on it. They are usually slightly different systems as the 'standard' for drafting men's wear is considered to be different from drafting women's wear. However, I think that the shapes are all the same, so I am sure that these same systems could be used as a base for anyone and adjusted accordingly. If you want books specifically on pattern drafting for men's wear, here are some options that are easy to get ahold of: "Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary" by Kim and "Patterncutting for Menswear by Kershaw"
You should really try muller&shon, it's the system used in most fashion industry, and also in the burda patterns
I will definitely check that system out! I have a running list of suggestions from viewers, its always good to have suggestions!
I was coming here to suggest this i would love to know your opinion on it
get the morplan pattern master ruler! it's like 4 rulers in one and i swear by it
I will definitely check that out! Thank you!
What version of Armstrong's book are you using? Amazon reviews say the latest copy is printed in India and contains missing key pages. Used original copies are very expensive. Thanks for remindin sewists that even a sloper may need several adjustments and test garment versions. It's also harder when a person is measuring and altering themself.
I believe I have the fifth edition! I am glad that you enjoyed the video!
also, i love how the chunman lo patterns fit but i'm a beginner and i'm having a very difficult time decoding his process, and there are no follow along tutorials on youtube for his process
It can definitely be hard to understand the instructions from that book, that is for sure my biggest complaint. I have considered the prospect of making follow along tutorial videos in the future but I think that’s awhile down the road unfortunately.
@@FoleyDressed that would be so helpful. especially for new sewers, like me!
There is a girl who explain the Lo system. Her name is Cen Hontomen.
@@monicarodriguez462 thank you so much! i'll check out the youtube channel
There is a you tube lady who has a Chanel called “sew it with Brit” who has done a follow along for the DCL bodice sloper which I have been using to do bodice mock ups these past two days. She explains it well.
Had you considered, for the sake of comparison, seeing how your “favorite pants” crotch curves compare to the sloper drafts you made? You may be able to achieve that perfect front crotch area (like on your own pants) by copying these lines on paper first.,
I think this is a great idea! I actually just took a pattern off of my favourite pair and tried this out! I will be posting a video about me perfecting my pant sloper soon!
I tried out the Armstrong pattern drafting method last night. I found that drafting the front and back together didn't work for me, because I have a larger waist the A and O points (the middle sections of the front and back) overlapped. I also found the crotch to be WAY too low and it messed with where the hip sits (since my hips to waist ratio is quite large it looked very strange) which is probably what bothered me the most with the fit, not sure how to adjust from here with such large problems if you have any advice. It might be helpful to draw the balance lines onto the muslins so you can see where they pull and droop.
I have definietly been hearing from a lot of people that the armstrong system doesnt always draft out the best for people who dont have very 'standard' measurements (which I would say is the vast majority of people, including me). Everyone's bodies are so different. Two people could have the exact same circumference measurment but their volumes could be distributed in entirely different ways. This is why in all of my pattern drafting videos thus far the armstrong system hasnt won yet! I just dont think it is very accurate for a wide array of body types. My best advice is to check out the fit issue section and see if there is any advice. If that doesnt work, I really enjoy the fit issue section for pants in the book Classic Tailoring Techniques for Women's Wear by Carbrera and Meyers! I hope that helps!
@@FoleyDressed yes! I definitely will check that book out
I like your videos. It would help viewers if you had marked the grain and balance lines on the front and backs so we could get a better idea of how the pants were hanging. Also, when you measured the crotch length, Kenneth D King was taught to never measure with the measuring tape standing up - lay it flat and walk it as required. I think he does this for pattern making and sewing in general.
Thank you! And thank you for the suggestion about the grainline. I agree that it would make it easier for viewers to see how the pants hang in the future, it can definitely be hard to see on video. I was taught to do it this way by my master tailor! Luckily, either way would work and if there was a difference it would be pretty negligible!
Un tip. use the baking paper. it is cheaper and faster. that's what I do . there I put my patterns on baking paper.
For the armstrong, did you use the trouser, slacks or jeans draft?
I used the Trouser draft. I will generally start with the most 'basic' option when testing a system.
@@FoleyDressed okay. I have that. same book myself. I have tried the trouser draft and the slacks draft. The slacks gives a closer and more flattering fit to the leg and has a shorter crotch. I typically use trouser draft to make things like pyjamas for clients because it is more comfortable to wear. I like the armstrong pants drafts for the flatness at the front. I however remove the ease from the waist. I am gonna try the jeans draft soon
@@MBBSist Very good to know! Im glad you enjoy the book as well! My biggest goal for this video was testing the rise for sure! :)
You should check out the book ‘il modellismo sartoriale”. Just a suggestion
Are e books available
I dont know! Amazon would probably be the best place to check for that!
Try the updated helen Joseph, check your email
I don't find this video helpful a it shows book instructions rather than actual work. I wonder why I feel this way.
This is more of a review video than an instructional video!