Exactly what I needed....same symptoms of not starting...with good fuel and new coil and good spark....not even a hiccup when pulling the rope .....on my way to check for a broken key....thanks guys
Just got finished replacing a carb gas lines primer bulb sat back and thought this should run like an abused ape! As you put it not even a fart! Now I have a different approach to look at thanks for the informative video.
Nice job. I'm just a tinkerer and not a real mechanic so I never thought to look at that either, but I have a saw that is acting the same way so I'm going to check it out!
Nice job. The Mini bike guys do the valve lapping compound thing on the flywheel and leaving it there. Well, some do. I shouldn't say all of them do. I have a massive selection of keys and keystock. I bought a pallet of stuff from a small engine shop auction. I sold everything but ten trays with thirty compartments in each. All full of various keys and keystock.
Having those assortments is the only way to go. If I have to go to the hardware store for something like that I usually end up buying the size I think I need and also one or two sizes above and below that cuz I'm not always sure.
I’ve got a 2011 saw with a 42cc. It’s sat since 2013. Dig it out a couple weeks ago and replaced the carb, fuel filters and in tank filter, plug, and air filter. New TruFuel. Can’t find anything on adjusting the carb after replacement. Mine has good spark and getting fuel, but won’t start.
@@robertlehrman5832 Theres a fair chance you have a crank seal problem. The saw should be pressure tested but first you want to inspect the cylinder for scoring.
I have the Yardworks and Champion rebrand of this exact same chainsaw and they both have the same symptoms as this saw. I bet if I take the flywheel off on em of it ill find 2 sheared keys, I have little doubt about that. Thanks for the good advice, you run one of my favorite channels, along with Mr. Obsoletes channel I've saved a few decent saws from the scrapyard!
I have the same problem on a low mileage one and I guarantee you I will not buy another Craftsman product. Thanks for the solution and I am sure it will do the same soon.
I paused the video when you asked us to guess what the issue was. I went through FACTS and my first thought was timing, but because this saw seemed so new I thought there was something amiss with the fuel, so I would have emptied and cleared as much fuel out of the system as possible, hit the intake with a shot of starter fluid and tried to get it to pop. Next would have been carb diaphragms and metering lever check. Finally I would have inspected the flywheel key. Instead of replacing I might have tried to clean up the flywheel groove and custom fitted a new key. Since you got a replacement flywheel for that low price that would have been my next move if all else failed.
Thats a logical progression of checks and really the flywheel key isn't a super common problem. With these cheaper built saws I'll have to consider that key more often.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Yeah, I suspect a manufacturing defect. It’s not like they were running it and hit a hidden fixed object in the lawn!😂 How often and why do chainsaw keys go?
Thanks for this video! I have the same model chainsaw, same symptoms, same problem with the keyway boogered up on the flywheel! Must be a defective part, although I did notice that the nut holding the flywheel was none too tight when I went to remove it. Could be it wasn't tightened enough when it was assembled? $17.00 for the new part + shipping.
I’m way late, but I have a new craftsman s180, I have good air, spark and fuel, i can get it to fire and then run for 5 sec or so and then it will die like it’s not getting gas anymore. Any ideas?
I don't know what this repair cost the guy, but i wonder how many of times a tool like this would get sold on marketplace as "runs, just needs blank" or simply gets thrown away? Great fix, thanks for sharing.
Having a problem with mine,the same exact chainsaw,if won't at times but if I really work it. It pop over once then after I turn it off,it won't start again. It's like it temperamental, it will start when it once too . Maybe it bad gas. Have to get some premix gas at Walmart to make sure. I have premix gas here that I mixed myself
how do you replace the bulb? My chainsaw is practically new, but I've noticed now that the bulb will no longer draw in fuel and i think thats why it wont start
That bulb is just snapped into place. You can get behind it with a screwdriver and pop it out. There will be a short and a long fitting on it. Make sure you put the new one on the same way. Having said all that...there are a bunch of other reasons the bulb may not be working and none of them are because the bulb is bad.
This video was awesome. Only one I found for this chainsaw. Not only that it was the exact problem I had. I just ordered the part. So you had to make your own replacement key?
I bought the exact saw chainsaw at an auction, "slightly used" - looks brand new, and has the exact same problem. Also got a Craftsman weed wacker - looks brand new, exact same problem! I was hoping for a simple solution that I could do myself, but considering I never even heard of a flywheel key, this is probably over my head. What an enormous POS Craftsman has become! Companies don't care about cheap Chinese crap that literally breaks the first time you use it, they just want to screw you for your money. These are both going in the trash and they will never get another dime from me.
Got one new. Same issue during second use. Luckily still in return window so it’s going back for sure. Are all brands designed this bad or just craftsman?
Hello Greasy I have a craftsman chainsaw that will not start. It is getting enough fuel to foul the spark plug. I see spark when pulling the cord, but it will not start. I watched your video and thought to check the flywheel. The flywheel looks fine. It has what looks like a built in key way. Any ideas what could be going on?
There are a lot of possibilities. Is the spark arrestor screen in the muffler blocked with carbon? Maybe its getting too much fuel. Is fuel coming out the exhaust? If so its severly flooded. If the saw has a major air leak it won't start. All of this is assuming it has good compression and the piston/cylinder aren't scored. Pull the spark plug or muffler and look for scoring -usually on the exhaust side.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I took the muffler off and no carbon. Also has good compression. The piston looks like new. The saw itself is like new. There is no fuel coming out of the exhaust. It will not even try to start. Do you think the spark could just be weak?
@@tomclark3592 When you took the muffler off was the piston clean and shiny or did it have vertical scoring? You said you took the muffler off but did you look at the screen?
@@TheGreasyShopRag I did. It was not dirty. I tried to take the screen out but it would not pull off. I could see through the screen with no problem. The piston looked brand new
The good part about this video is you don't need to see every little step in detail. You probably shouldn't be working on one if you don't know the terms used or can pick them up quick. And alas I am pretty decent but I never would have thought about the keyway and I have replaced them on regular lawn mowers. Yeah I know they are cheap junk but I will probably buy another so I have replacement parts. If I was a logger or did more I would go big, but I use a 600 dollar chainsaw about the same as a 169 dollar lowes special. Get a warranty and maybe can replace as it breaks. Chinesium is getting so weak in all products I am surprised anything lasts more than a year. I have a feeling guys with milling machines have bright future. Thanks for the video. I am 99% sure when I open it up I will find that exact issue.
Maybe these flywheels aren’t being sufficiently torqued from the factory. I can understand how a rotary mower sheers a key. But here you would have to stop that crank via a clutch and chain to mimic that kind of abrupt engine stop.
Or possibly jerk on the cord too hard or possibly pull the cord with a hydro locked engine. Maybe you're right. If the nut were tighter it might not spin.
I like the. Chanel / video. Subbed. Just picked one of these 40 cc 18 in her up. Tryi g get it going. Starts and idles but ya i g a hard time with a load , running average or hard. Idling nicely. Working on it
Kotter key is something else not discussed in this video. The flywheel key is a half moon shaped piece of metal that sits in a half moon groove in the crankshaft and stands proud above the shaft. This allows the flywheel to be installed with its groove over the key. The flywheel key thus locks the flywheel to the crankshaft. In this case it "sheared" meaning it split in half allowing the flywheel to spin and no longer be locked to the crankshaft. This changed the igntion timing and thats why the saw wouldn't start.
@TheGreasyShopRag ty for that. I am familiar with this on old out board motors so sorry for the wrongful terminology but under stand completely. Why is it so hard to find a replacment? Hardware stores should have these NO!?? I'm gonna check mine as I've repaier the fuel system and ignition but still can't get it to "bump". This sounds like what i need to check out. Thx again..... your videos have walked me through ALL this! Great stuff man!
@@timc3148 I'm not sure why I wasn't able to find that key and I'm not sure why it wasn't included in the parts diagram. I've never needed another of those odd sized keys since the video was made so buying a kit would be a waste.
@TheGreasyShopRag the one I have those key is cast in the fly wheel...... and does NOT appear to be sheared!?? Any suggestions? At least I have a part # now.
@@timc3148 Thats weird that they would make two different versions and make no mention of it in the parts diagram, unless we're actually working on two different models. If your cast-in key is good and the magnets have some strength then bolt that fluwheel on and look somewhere else for your problem.
Whoda thunk? Sheared key? Made of what, aluminum? No, wait...Chinesium. These are disposable chainsaws. Very few folks will even work on them because you can buy a new one for the cost of labor.
9 minutes for a 3 second trick. **EDIT** Phone was dumb and put this comment on the wrong video - this video is actually very useful and shows you alot of the anatomy of a chainsaw.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Dude, I'm terribly sorry - I wrote this on a different video but my phone put it on this one. I will edit my original commend to reflect this. To be clear YOUR video was very helpful and I appreciate getting to see all the different pieces of the saw
I build a lot of performance small engines All the key dose is put u in time for correct spark Like a Genrator stator the crank has that perfect shape when tighten to perfect torq speck of Manuel they are mated They are no permanent and Will not move unless a sudden stop or if u drop it U know The correct way is to use vavle compound and like u did in video make sure both surfaces perfectly mated Youl see like grey area were u were grinding to together Know u need ti make sure u remove all compound and has to be perfect clean Any thing left behind could cause key to spin On my raceing engine we run advance keys But obviously in chain saw there more concerned with perfect factory set timing Lock tight not need chance are like u said that craft man is Mtd china They probably didt torq to speck Or he drop it in grass when running Just had a guy bring in a kart I built for him it went rolling and he said after roll it turned off and didt start again Motor looked beautiful and had killer spark When u pulled the motor u could hear it like firing at wrong time Took it apart Sure enough he spun that key Wat suck is if it spun key and time was just off like 3-4-5 degrees advance it retard the motor could run but act weird and would take a while to suspect a key problem Great work I love these videos hope there more to come
If you just watched this video to get your craftsman saw running I hope this helped. I also try to show techniques and ideas that will help other techs solve problems and that adds time to these videos. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Scott, I've got a 16" that has all those symptoms, never thought to look at the flywheel. I'm gonna dig in right now. Steve
Good luck!
Exactly what I needed....same symptoms of not starting...with good fuel and new coil and good spark....not even a hiccup when pulling the rope .....on my way to check for a broken key....thanks guys
Thanks for watching
Great catch. I would love to see one on how you adjust carburetors in these little chainsaws.
I've been saving a few clips from these repairs and I'll put together a video once I have everything I want. Thanks for watching.
Great fix…you always have a “workaround” plan…..awesome.
Any idea what causes the shear pin to shear? Would it be activation of the chain break?
Just got finished replacing a carb gas lines primer bulb sat back and thought this should run like an abused ape! As you put it not even a fart! Now I have a different approach to look at thanks for the informative video.
I hope it works out for you!
Nice job. I'm just a tinkerer and not a real mechanic so I never thought to look at that either, but I have a saw that is acting the same way so I'm going to check it out!
Good luck with the repair!
Nice job. The Mini bike guys do the valve lapping compound thing on the flywheel and leaving it there. Well, some do. I shouldn't say all of them do. I have a massive selection of keys and keystock. I bought a pallet of stuff from a small engine shop auction. I sold everything but ten trays with thirty compartments in each. All full of various keys and keystock.
Having those assortments is the only way to go. If I have to go to the hardware store for something like that I usually end up buying the size I think I need and also one or two sizes above and below that cuz I'm not always sure.
I’ve got a 2011 saw with a 42cc. It’s sat since 2013. Dig it out a couple weeks ago and replaced the carb, fuel filters and in tank filter, plug, and air filter. New TruFuel. Can’t find anything on adjusting the carb after replacement. Mine has good spark and getting fuel, but won’t start.
I guess my first question is why did it sit for so long? Did it fail and get set aside or was it running fine last time it was used?
@@TheGreasyShopRagit would die out when turned on its side.
@@robertlehrman5832 Theres a fair chance you have a crank seal problem. The saw should be pressure tested but first you want to inspect the cylinder for scoring.
I have the Yardworks and Champion rebrand of this exact same chainsaw and they both have the same symptoms as this saw. I bet if I take the flywheel off on em of it ill find 2 sheared keys, I have little doubt about that.
Thanks for the good advice, you run one of my favorite channels, along with Mr. Obsoletes channel I've saved a few decent saws from the scrapyard!
I'll have to check out Mr Obsolete. Thanks for watching!
I have the same problem on a low mileage one and I guarantee you I will not buy another Craftsman product. Thanks for the solution and I am sure it will do the same soon.
Agreed.
I paused the video when you asked us to guess what the issue was. I went through FACTS and my first thought was timing, but because this saw seemed so new I thought there was something amiss with the fuel, so I would have emptied and cleared as much fuel out of the system as possible, hit the intake with a shot of starter fluid and tried to get it to pop. Next would have been carb diaphragms and metering lever check. Finally I would have inspected the flywheel key. Instead of replacing I might have tried to clean up the flywheel groove and custom fitted a new key. Since you got a replacement flywheel for that low price that would have been my next move if all
else failed.
Thats a logical progression of checks and really the flywheel key isn't a super common problem. With these cheaper built saws I'll have to consider that key more often.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Yeah, I suspect a manufacturing defect. It’s not like they were running it and hit a hidden fixed object in the lawn!😂 How often and why do chainsaw keys go?
@@Rein_Ciarfella Not too often. Loose nuts, jerking the cord, impact or debris I suppose.
Never...except in China
Thanks for this video! I have the same model chainsaw, same symptoms, same problem with the keyway boogered up on the flywheel! Must be a defective part, although I did notice that the nut holding the flywheel was none too tight when I went to remove it. Could be it wasn't tightened enough when it was assembled? $17.00 for the new part + shipping.
Ya I suppose it could be a torque problem from the factory.
I’m way late, but I have a new craftsman s180, I have good air, spark and fuel, i can get it to fire and then run for 5 sec or so and then it will die like it’s not getting gas anymore. Any ideas?
I don't know what this repair cost the guy, but i wonder how many of times a tool like this would get sold on marketplace as "runs, just needs blank" or simply gets thrown away? Great fix, thanks for sharing.
I don't know. It was clean so it could have been an easy sell.
Great video! Can you please tell us what the part number is for the flywheel
I don't have that info anymore but if you go to
www.searspartsdirect.com/
you can enter your model number and look it up.
Having a problem with mine,the same exact chainsaw,if won't at times but if I really work it. It pop over once then after I turn it off,it won't start again. It's like it temperamental, it will start when it once too . Maybe it bad gas. Have to get some premix gas at Walmart to make sure. I have premix gas here that I mixed myself
Thanks for sharing your experience. Now maybe I can fix mine.
I'm not getting any fuel in the priming bulb. It doesn't appear to be damaged, any suggestions?
Plugged fuel filter. Hole in fuel line/fuel line disconnected/fuel line pinched. Bad primer bulb or my favorite...plugged micro screen in carb.
how do you replace the bulb? My chainsaw is practically new, but I've noticed now that the bulb will no longer draw in fuel and i think thats why it wont start
That bulb is just snapped into place. You can get behind it with a screwdriver and pop it out. There will be a short and a long fitting on it. Make sure you put the new one on the same way. Having said all that...there are a bunch of other reasons the bulb may not be working and none of them are because the bulb is bad.
This video was awesome. Only one I found for this chainsaw. Not only that it was the exact problem I had. I just ordered the part. So you had to make your own replacement key?
I bought the exact saw chainsaw at an auction, "slightly used" - looks brand new, and has the exact same problem. Also got a Craftsman weed wacker - looks brand new, exact same problem! I was hoping for a simple solution that I could do myself, but considering I never even heard of a flywheel key, this is probably over my head.
What an enormous POS Craftsman has become! Companies don't care about cheap Chinese crap that literally breaks the first time you use it, they just want to screw you for your money. These are both going in the trash and they will never get another dime from me.
Got one new. Same issue during second use. Luckily still in return window so it’s going back for sure.
Are all brands designed this bad or just craftsman?
Not just Craftsman. For smaller saws I like the Echo brand for durability, ease of use and 5 year warranty.
Thanks for the walk through
You're welcome.
That's a cool flashlight. Can you say where you found it? Thanks!
www.streamlight.com/products/detail/stylus-reach-18
Hello Greasy
I have a craftsman chainsaw that will not start. It is getting enough fuel to foul the spark plug. I see spark when pulling the cord, but it will not start. I watched your video and thought to check the flywheel. The flywheel looks fine. It has what looks like a built in key way. Any ideas what could be going on?
There are a lot of possibilities. Is the spark arrestor screen in the muffler blocked with carbon? Maybe its getting too much fuel. Is fuel coming out the exhaust? If so its severly flooded. If the saw has a major air leak it won't start. All of this is assuming it has good compression and the piston/cylinder aren't scored. Pull the spark plug or muffler and look for scoring -usually on the exhaust side.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I took the muffler off and no carbon. Also has good compression. The piston looks like new.
The saw itself is like new. There is no fuel coming out of the exhaust. It will not even try to start. Do you think the spark could just be weak?
@@tomclark3592 When you took the muffler off was the piston clean and shiny or did it have vertical scoring? You said you took the muffler off but did you look at the screen?
@@TheGreasyShopRag I did. It was not dirty. I tried to take the screen out but it would not pull off. I could see through the screen with no problem. The piston looked brand new
@@TheGreasyShopRag I thank you sir for helping me. The local shop told me to change the spark plug.
Do you know if this can happen even after the first use? It’s happening with my brand new craftsman chainsaw
Yes it is possible. The saw in the video has had little use.
Happen to hand the part number handy?
Sorry, no.
The good part about this video is you don't need to see every little step in detail. You probably shouldn't be working on one if you don't know the terms used or can pick them up quick. And alas I am pretty decent but I never would have thought about the keyway and I have replaced them on regular lawn mowers.
Yeah I know they are cheap junk but I will probably buy another so I have replacement parts. If I was a logger or did more I would go big, but I use a 600 dollar chainsaw about the same as a 169 dollar lowes special. Get a warranty and maybe can replace as it breaks. Chinesium is getting so weak in all products I am surprised anything lasts more than a year. I have a feeling guys with milling machines have bright future.
Thanks for the video. I am 99% sure when I open it up I will find that exact issue.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Maybe these flywheels aren’t being sufficiently torqued from the factory. I can understand how a rotary mower sheers a key. But here you would have to stop that crank via a clutch and chain to mimic that kind of abrupt engine stop.
Or possibly jerk on the cord too hard or possibly pull the cord with a hydro locked engine. Maybe you're right. If the nut were tighter it might not spin.
I like the. Chanel / video. Subbed. Just picked one of these 40 cc 18 in her up. Tryi g get it going. Starts and idles but ya i g a hard time with a load , running average or hard. Idling nicely. Working on it
Thanks for watching!
they used to sell those at sears
Yep. Thanks for watching!
Cool video thanks. Laterrrrr
What exactly is a "sheared" Kotter key...
Kotter key is something else not discussed in this video. The flywheel key is a half moon shaped piece of metal that sits in a half moon groove in the crankshaft and stands proud above the shaft. This allows the flywheel to be installed with its groove over the key. The flywheel key thus locks the flywheel to the crankshaft. In this case it "sheared" meaning it split in half allowing the flywheel to spin and no longer be locked to the crankshaft. This changed the igntion timing and thats why the saw wouldn't start.
@TheGreasyShopRag ty for that. I am familiar with this on old out board motors so sorry for the wrongful terminology but under stand completely. Why is it so hard to find a replacment? Hardware stores should have these NO!?? I'm gonna check mine as I've repaier the fuel system and ignition but still can't get it to "bump". This sounds like what i need to check out. Thx again..... your videos have walked me through ALL this! Great stuff man!
@@timc3148 I'm not sure why I wasn't able to find that key and I'm not sure why it wasn't included in the parts diagram. I've never needed another of those odd sized keys since the video was made so buying a kit would be a waste.
@TheGreasyShopRag the one I have those key is cast in the fly wheel...... and does NOT appear to be sheared!?? Any suggestions? At least I have a part # now.
@@timc3148 Thats weird that they would make two different versions and make no mention of it in the parts diagram, unless we're actually working on two different models. If your cast-in key is good and the magnets have some strength then bolt that fluwheel on and look somewhere else for your problem.
Cool find I would of tossed it!
Thank you sir. that was my problem.
Glad to have helped.
@@TheGreasyShopRagcan you order the pin itself or is it one of the parts you can’t get ?
@@timheck2758 Can't order it but you might find one in a key assortment.
Whoda thunk? Sheared key? Made of what, aluminum? No, wait...Chinesium. These are disposable chainsaws. Very few folks will even work on them because you can buy a new one for the cost of labor.
Ya its sad thats why I do my best to recycle these things if they are not to be fixed.
Your like me creative ill get er done nice video thanks
Thanks for watching!
I hate them keys that are built in to the flywheel
Ya they ain't much.
9 minutes for a 3 second trick. **EDIT** Phone was dumb and put this comment on the wrong video - this video is actually very useful and shows you alot of the anatomy of a chainsaw.
I guess you missed the whole point of the video but thanks for watching.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Dude, I'm terribly sorry - I wrote this on a different video but my phone put it on this one.
I will edit my original commend to reflect this.
To be clear YOUR video was very helpful and I appreciate getting to see all the different pieces of the saw
@@TheChefODoom Its all good. Thanks for the clarification and again, thanks for watching my videos.
@@TheChefODoom
Hah! Your phone put it on this one.......
Wow
I build a lot of performance small engines
All the key dose is put u in time for correct spark
Like a Genrator stator the crank has that perfect shape when tighten to perfect torq speck of Manuel they are mated
They are no permanent and Will not move unless a sudden stop or if u drop it
U know
The correct way is to use vavle compound and like u did in video make sure both surfaces perfectly mated
Youl see like grey area were u were grinding to together
Know u need ti make sure u remove all compound and has to be perfect clean
Any thing left behind could cause key to spin
On my raceing engine we run advance keys
But obviously in chain saw there more concerned with perfect factory set timing
Lock tight not need chance are like u said that craft man is Mtd china
They probably didt torq to speck
Or he drop it in grass when running
Just had a guy bring in a kart I built for him it went rolling and he said after roll it turned off and didt start again
Motor looked beautiful and had killer spark
When u pulled the motor u could hear it like firing at wrong time
Took it apart
Sure enough he spun that key
Wat suck is if it spun key and time was just off like 3-4-5 degrees advance it retard the motor could run but act weird and would take a while to suspect a key problem
Great work
I love these videos hope there more to come
Thanks for your insight and thanks for watching.
I just wanted to start it, not rebuild it.
Thanks for watching. Good luck starting your saw.
Your explanation is to long
If you just watched this video to get your craftsman saw running I hope this helped. I also try to show techniques and ideas that will help other techs solve problems and that adds time to these videos. Thanks for watching.