Having dabbled with druchii violet on metal, with good results, it's interesting to see you apply it to a custodes - an idea we both shared! Nice job, looks great and thanks for the video
Excellent video thanks, I absolutely agree with you about highlighting gold with silvers. I have just ordered some scale colour gold paints so I will try this method when they arrive.
Great efficient way to go about it, love the army painting series! There's something about Acrylic gold that always comes off as sparkly plastic. Vallejo Metal Color mixed with some Copper looks better but still doesn't have the same luster you need to really convey gold. So at some point I took a dive to the deep end of metallizers and tried anything from Alclad, AK, Pigments to exotic Lacquer paints and 2K from Korea. Right now the go to for me is Gaianotes EX, lovely stuff and when mixed with some clear colors you can really shift it to the hue you want.
@@cultofpaint Can totally see that, IMO gold metallic paints work great when weathered when it comes to the waterbased products but if you really want to get a proper metallic sheen you have to look into the solvents which for the most part can't be brushed aside from maybe alcohol or wax based paints.
Cult of Paint I’m a fan of the regular Hammers of Sigmar scheme on the Sequitors. You could focus the video on the blue robes after covering the gold in such detail in this video. Love your work, keep it up!
I followed this with two changes, 1) use tamiya panel liner black for very stark panel lines, 2) use a glaze of gore grunta fur into recesses to accentuate the shadows. Looks fantastic.
Thanks for your video, perfect timing. Embarking on a Custod Army, following your recipe. Test models are looking great so far. The Gore Grunta contrast, 6:1 A/B comparison with decayed metal on paper, didn’t feel like contrast added anything? perhaps more matte? Also, the Druchii violet, less of a glaze transition and simply to matte/darken shadows? Your thoughts appreciated. Fantastic work and love you video’s. Cheers :) ...can see now, apply a little more druchi then compare a model with and without in natural light, subtle but better diff with. :)
The contrast definitely helps warm up the decayed metal, if you'd like it even punchier then add a little more. Not worried about finish at this stage either so the matte effect doesn't matter.
Thanks. ...Now onto Pin wash, humming and harring if to add some starship filth into the mix? Feel like gives a deeper shadow, but requires more clean up. Still very new to oil washes, your thoughts appreciated. Thanks ...ok, an A/B comparison later, don’t second guess the master ;) one side of vexilus banner burnt umber, one side with starship filth in the mix. Burnt Umber is better.
If you are looking into satin varnihes for metallics. try the new AK Interactive 3rd Generation Satin. It has a really nice finish for metallics. Also, the Mission Models semi-flat coat is nice. It's not flat at all and in fact quite shiny.
I’m not sure if it’s “new” per se, I think many of the newer schemes show the BL in full gold trim but that’s not how they were done for a good decade or more. Idk that’s how I paint mine haha
How much did you dilute the S75 dark lather and combined with what black? I'm gonna paint my first model soon and i loved the color of the leather, so i wanna make sure to do it right. Thanks in advance 🙏
Great tutorial I have a question you are using the citrine alchemy to highlight but from the looks of it the current citrine alchemy looks more of a creamy colour not sure if the formula was changed do you have any other recommendations for a non silver highlight
Please keep up with that work ! I have my faire share of questions: - If I decide to do the armour black like in your Black Templar video, can I use the same gold recipe from here and apply only to the detail of the custodes armour with a brush instead of the airbrush ? - What kind of purple recipe would work for topknot and clothes on such colour scheme ? - Any advice to replace your p3 paints with valejo or GW ? They are hard to get around here... Thanks for the videos, they motivate me to train with my airbrush a bit !
Absolutely love the way this looks. Question though, could I do these gold steps like you have, varnish, pin drop and then paint the plates black to make a shadow keeper? Just love the way this gold looks but am worried that painting black over the varnish won’t work to how I wish.
Loved the video! One small criticism I have is that the Druchii Violet step was very difficult to follow as the effect didn't really show up on the camera, both during and after the application.
How do you rate the Scale 75 gold metallics over all? I know a lot of people have issues with them. I’m looking to pick up some new gold paints as I’ve never been satisfied with the performance of my VGC golds.
Big fan. The gold and coppers are ones i use a lot. Only issue i've every had is they split on a wet pallette if you're using a lot. But that's a very simple thing to overcome.
What I like about this scheme so much is that it is not simply gold and done. That lemony yellow tone really makes it its own thing and adds so much unique character. Question: The approximate cylinder shape of a humanoid figure lends itself very nicely to having a single light source to one side. Now, how would you approach something with a more complex shape like the Vertus Preators' jetbikes with that scheme? Can you offer any advice on where to put the light source on those, please?
How long do you wait for the acrylic polyurethane varnish to dry/cure before you proceed with the oil wash and subsequent layers? I've had a bad experience with the Vallejo varnish reactivating and peeling off despite leaving it to dry for a few hours. Nowadays I leave it for 24h just to be sure.
I'm working to replicate this colour scheme on my own custodes models. I really like how the gold turned out. One question. How long do you wait in between each layer of varnish that you apply?
Question I’m following the same scheme for mine when you thinned the oil wash I only have tamiya x22A on hand would that be fine for thinning the oil paints or do I need to get something else
@@marvinbaitman8006 no you need mineral spirits for the oils. In the UK we call them white spirit. Any will do, but I prefer an odourless artist grade one such as Sansodor by Windsor and Newton
My Problem with Oil washes always is that It does look great when I first put it on. But a few minutes later the wash spiders out into ugly patterns around the cracks and crevices and also loses much of it's intensity. Anybody know what causes this?
Two things that may be causing problems are 1. Low quality oil paints, these don't dilute very well and can separate out as they dry. 2. On some models the join between two pieces may not be the lowest point, so the paint won't settle in there.
Am I correct in assuming that doing this gold as the first airbrush project for a newbie isn't actually that hard; getting it to look good is mostly picking the right colors? I noticed this came just after your Intro to Airbrushing videos which may not be a coincidence
@@cultofpaint Totally agree, I just never know which way to say it. Even saying it like sans odour doesn't feel right as W&N chose to make it one word for a reason. Still, shout out to Games workshop for pioneering the practice of difficult to pronounce products!
Cult of Paint Fair point, but I mean before the wash, after the wash it’s totally fine. I’ve had the same the results with and without varnishing before adding oils
Love that you started out by looking at art and let it inspire your paint scheme.
Thanks for the tip about the Druchii Violet. It looks fantastic used sparingly to shade gold.
Glad it was helpful!
Absolutely amazing gold and I like you used all other colours. Will defiantly use it for my Custodes.
Awesome! Thank you!
Having dabbled with druchii violet on metal, with good results, it's interesting to see you apply it to a custodes - an idea we both shared! Nice job, looks great and thanks for the video
Thanks
I would really like to see you paint up a resin emperor model with this scheme
Dude this thing is beautiful as the light of the emporer!!!!
Always like the idea that Auramite would be a "luminescent gold" and you've really captured that here. Will definitely use on my banana boys!
Great scheme for Stormcast as well.
Thank you! Clear concise and very accessible for someone new to this like me. Thanks!
Man to be able to paint this well. Looks very well done.
Hopefully the video shows that the techniques are nice and simple. And the brush control just comes with hours of painting!
Great video, great example of taking advantage of an airbrush plan to maximize efficiency. Thanks for sharing and please be safe!
Thanks Rob, this could certainly be a good candidate for a high quality army in very little time.
Your channel is awesome mate, keep up the good work. Your voice has good cadence and you present everything really cleanly.
Thanks for the feedback!
Excellent video thanks, I absolutely agree with you about highlighting gold with silvers. I have just ordered some scale colour gold paints so I will try this method when they arrive.
You’re gonna love them, really good metal colours in that range.
Great efficient way to go about it, love the army painting series!
There's something about Acrylic gold that always comes off as sparkly plastic. Vallejo Metal Color mixed with some Copper looks better but still doesn't have the same luster you need to really convey gold. So at some point I took a dive to the deep end of metallizers and tried anything from Alclad, AK, Pigments to exotic Lacquer paints and 2K from Korea.
Right now the go to for me is Gaianotes EX, lovely stuff and when mixed with some clear colors you can really shift it to the hue you want.
I think metals at wargaming scale are often a compromise. One of many reason I believe you see competition painters go for NMM.
@@cultofpaint Can totally see that, IMO gold metallic paints work great when weathered when it comes to the waterbased products but if you really want to get a proper metallic sheen you have to look into the solvents which for the most part can't be brushed aside from maybe alcohol or wax based paints.
This was great, really enjoy the army painting videos. Would love to see you do a Stormcast Eternals Sequitor.
any particular chamber?
Cult of Paint I’m a fan of the regular Hammers of Sigmar scheme on the Sequitors. You could focus the video on the blue robes after covering the gold in such detail in this video. Love your work, keep it up!
What a fantastic gold. Really great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
I followed this with two changes, 1) use tamiya panel liner black for very stark panel lines, 2) use a glaze of gore grunta fur into recesses to accentuate the shadows. Looks fantastic.
Very Beautiful work sir.
Nice work! Thank you for the painting lesson. :)
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Great work. Awesome video
cheers dude
Thanks for your video, perfect timing. Embarking on a Custod Army, following your recipe. Test models are looking great so far. The Gore Grunta contrast, 6:1 A/B comparison with decayed metal on paper, didn’t feel like contrast added anything? perhaps more matte? Also, the Druchii violet, less of a glaze transition and simply to matte/darken shadows? Your thoughts appreciated. Fantastic work and love you video’s. Cheers :) ...can see now, apply a little more druchi then compare a model with and without in natural light, subtle but better diff with. :)
The contrast definitely helps warm up the decayed metal, if you'd like it even punchier then add a little more. Not worried about finish at this stage either so the matte effect doesn't matter.
Thanks. ...Now onto Pin wash, humming and harring if to add some starship filth into the mix? Feel like gives a deeper shadow, but requires more clean up. Still very new to oil washes, your thoughts appreciated. Thanks ...ok, an A/B comparison later, don’t second guess the master ;) one side of vexilus banner burnt umber, one side with starship filth in the mix. Burnt Umber is better.
If you are looking into satin varnihes for metallics. try the new AK Interactive 3rd Generation Satin. It has a really nice finish for metallics. Also, the Mission Models semi-flat coat is nice. It's not flat at all and in fact quite shiny.
Thanks for the suggestions, it's the AK range i'm looking to pick up.
Great guide! How does the varnish help? For instance why do you use the gloss varnish before the oil wash and use the satin ine later?
I'd love to see your take on a Black Legionnaire, with the traditional gold trim up top / steel trim down below. Subbed for more!
Is that what the new BL scheme is?
I’m not sure if it’s “new” per se, I think many of the newer schemes show the BL in full gold trim but that’s not how they were done for a good decade or more. Idk that’s how I paint mine haha
Cool, will check out some of the older stuff for them.
How much did you dilute the S75 dark lather and combined with what black?
I'm gonna paint my first model soon and i loved the color of the leather, so i wanna make sure to do it right. Thanks in advance 🙏
This looks amazing! Why it only gets 900 likes? Great job! I am looking forward to seeing the blade champion
Is there a substitute for decayed metal? It is sold out everywhere for me
Great tutorial I have a question you are using the citrine alchemy to highlight but from the looks of it the current citrine alchemy looks more of a creamy colour not sure if the formula was changed do you have any other recommendations for a non silver highlight
if its changed then i'd mix in a little silver to a bright gold and use that instead.
Excellent!
Cheers bud
Please keep up with that work !
I have my faire share of questions:
- If I decide to do the armour black like in your Black Templar video, can I use the same gold recipe from here and apply only to the detail of the custodes armour with a brush instead of the airbrush ?
- What kind of purple recipe would work for topknot and clothes on such colour scheme ?
- Any advice to replace your p3 paints with valejo or GW ? They are hard to get around here...
Thanks for the videos, they motivate me to train with my airbrush a bit !
Maybe I could do the purple from your kabalite video ? Maybe a bit too pink and it will go badly with the blue gems/blades and the black/gold armour ?
Hey i really love these videos! Any chance theres a chaos (black legion) video coming soon ? 😛
Perhaps not soon, but chaos is certainly on the list!
Great video! Did You use any thinner for this metalics? Can I use Vallejo thinner or AK 47 thinner for scalecolor metalics?
Yes i used lifecolour thinner in this video, but vallejo thinner works just fine.
Couldn't really tell myself how the purple effected the model, but maybe it shows up better in person ?
A fair comment, and yes it really does. It's why i wanted to explain the decision to use it.
Why not thin the contrast paint with the matte varnish?
You could certainly add it into the mixture.
Hey mate, this is my favourite place to come to learn painting, may I ask where you get those little metal dishes for mixing washes?
That's great to hear!! If you search for Mr Hobby metal mixing dishes then you'll find them. I'm sure other brands produce them too.
Absolutely love the way this looks. Question though, could I do these gold steps like you have, varnish, pin drop and then paint the plates black to make a shadow keeper? Just love the way this gold looks but am worried that painting black over the varnish won’t work to how I wish.
Absolutely, you might want to paint a little matte varnish oer those panels first jsut to help the paint adhere better.
what colors did you use on the weapon handle?
Loved the video! One small criticism I have is that the Druchii Violet step was very difficult to follow as the effect didn't really show up on the camera, both during and after the application.
Noted, if we find we have stages that don’t film brilliantly then we’ll be sure to explain what and why we’re doing something.
How do you rate the Scale 75 gold metallics over all? I know a lot of people have issues with them. I’m looking to pick up some new gold paints as I’ve never been satisfied with the performance of my VGC golds.
Big fan. The gold and coppers are ones i use a lot. Only issue i've every had is they split on a wet pallette if you're using a lot. But that's a very simple thing to overcome.
What I like about this scheme so much is that it is not simply gold and done. That lemony yellow tone really makes it its own thing and adds so much unique character.
Question: The approximate cylinder shape of a humanoid figure lends itself very nicely to having a single light source to one side. Now, how would you approach something with a more complex shape like the Vertus Preators' jetbikes with that scheme? Can you offer any advice on where to put the light source on those, please?
If you look at the bike it's still more or less a cylinder, just horizontal.
@@cultofpaint Thanks!
Really useful video. Just a question on the helmet. How did you do the face plate? Is that a shade of grey? If so what is it?
Pretty sure it's just the silver
@@jasonsmall3364 yeah I've done a bit more digging since and it seems so. Thanks for confirming for me! 😊
How long do you wait for the acrylic polyurethane varnish to dry/cure before you proceed with the oil wash and subsequent layers? I've had a bad experience with the Vallejo varnish reactivating and peeling off despite leaving it to dry for a few hours. Nowadays I leave it for 24h just to be sure.
Mostly i just use a hairdryer and start as soon as it's touch dry. But you are right in that leaving it 24hrs should guarantee no issues.
I'm working to replicate this colour scheme on my own custodes models. I really like how the gold turned out. One question. How long do you wait in between each layer of varnish that you apply?
Hairdryer, touch dry.
Question I’m following the same scheme for mine when you thinned the oil wash I only have tamiya x22A on hand would that be fine for thinning the oil paints or do I need to get something else
@@marvinbaitman8006 no you need mineral spirits for the oils. In the UK we call them white spirit. Any will do, but I prefer an odourless artist grade one such as Sansodor by Windsor and Newton
@@cultofpaintthanks also when applying your golds what angles do spray from as just got started with airbrushing last week thanks
@@marvinbaitman8006 more or less top down then bit more angled. No need to get too clever with metallics
My Problem with Oil washes always is that It does look great when I first put it on. But a few minutes later the wash spiders out into ugly patterns around the cracks and crevices and also loses much of it's intensity. Anybody know what causes this?
Two things that may be causing problems are 1. Low quality oil paints, these don't dilute very well and can separate out as they dry. 2. On some models the join between two pieces may not be the lowest point, so the paint won't settle in there.
Little Kitten would be proud
Do you do an overall spray varnish for to protect for gaming?
Not after that satin varnish on the metal. Paint’s pretty robust and we pick stuff up by the bases.
What is the little pie plate you use to thin things in?
Metal mixing dish from Mr. Hobby
Did you use the same colors for the eyes, as for the gems and weapon?
Yes
Was this using a glossy or matte primer
chaos black
Am I correct in assuming that doing this gold as the first airbrush project for a newbie isn't actually that hard; getting it to look good is mostly picking the right colors? I noticed this came just after your Intro to Airbrushing videos which may not be a coincidence
That was a coincidence. But this is certainly not a difficult airbrushing project. Airbrushing metallics is very forgiving.
A single pack, water based, UV resistant, polyurethane gloss varnish. Sounds a bit like a unicorn.
Heresy Salamanders soon?
Everything heresy soon!
Dang it guys...I kept myself rom going custodes...but now I have to :O
Do iiiitttttt.
A lot of people in this community pronounce it "san-sah-dor", but I feel like it should be pronounced like "sans-odour".... right? As in odourless?
however you say it, it's a good product!
@@cultofpaint Totally agree, I just never know which way to say it. Even saying it like sans odour doesn't feel right as W&N chose to make it one word for a reason.
Still, shout out to Games workshop for pioneering the practice of difficult to pronounce products!
Honestly you don’t need a varnish for oils, they work just fine without it.
It’s nothing to do with them working or not. As explained in the video it is to give the recess wash the same finish as the rest of the armour.
Cult of Paint Fair point, but I mean before the wash, after the wash it’s totally fine. I’ve had the same the results with and without varnishing before adding oils
Just spray Retributor armor on!!