Loved watching this. I've had an old Model 2225, which I am embarrassed to say, had been sitting in my garage for years. I now have it in my home office, connected to a record player. The FM stations aren't working, and some of the lights are out. I will probably try to open it up, blow out the dust that has accumulated over the years, and maybe test the voltage in the areas you showed. Thanks for giving me the confidence to try to fix this up.
Jim, working on this stuff can occasionally be tedious and frustrating, but the feeling you get when you fix something that previously wan't working is unparalleled. Thanks for the kind comment!
A pleasure to watch someone so well attuned to the work hes doing. So satisfying, deciding on a solution for a problem, executing, and being proven right, Good one Ray.
Great work, Ray. I know you have shown doing an alignment, but you can't show that too many times for those of us trying to get up to speed with it. It would be really helpful if you would show at least the highlights of your alignments whenever you do them. Keep the videos coming. They are always a learning experience.
Thanks Steven. All these videos have been a learning experience for me as well. I have to review and really get a grasp on this stuff before I start recording. Or, as I'm fond of saying, I have to remember stuff I never learned. 😁 I'll get some alignment video going in the near future. In the meantime, xraytonyb has got some really good videos dealing with alignment.
When you were talking about wax Ray I was working on a Sansui receiver and it had wax on it as well and I assumed someone had burned a candle on top and it ran down in, it was a mess to solder components.
Late to the party as usual .... but FWIW... that waxy substance under the chips (10:32) us used to stabilize the chip before soldering. Generally it is used instead of bending pins... but it looks like Marantz did both. Also on the end note about counterfeit parts... We should all be aware that laser re-branding is becoming an actual business and many interchangeable but less used chips (the hundreds of 8 pin op-amps, for example) are now being rebranded as more popular chips... For example: I've seen estimates that as much as 1/2 of the NE5532s are rebrands and of late I've pulled a number of them out of the Chinese made Chip-Amps. Note: I don't think the amp builders are to blame for this. It appears the supply chain has somehow become polluted with rebrands.
@@raygianelli3612 The NE5532 is very easy to check, you can even do it in-circuit. Take your multimeter and look for a diode signature on the input pins 2 and 3 and/or 5 and 6. No diodes == fake. Other Op-Amps are much harder to detect, sometimes you just can't be sure. For audio purposes I keep a supply of known good (from Mouser) RC4558s on hand as they are considered a "jelly bean chip" that can replace most audio op-amps without problems. If you do some searches, you will find a ton of information about the counterfeit parts problem. The wax thing comes from my days working on computers... they used to put a little dab of wax under the parts to secure them for wave soldering.
Have the same Model 2225...Stereo Light will not come on with +3.5 Signal Strength and FM Tuning Meter Dead Centre, also Tuner is misaligned in both FM and AM. So FM 101 is at 104 and AM 1010 is 1060, etc. Approach to fix these issues? Are they related? Great Video easy to understand and do.
Lack of stereo lamp is often discriminator misalignment. Possible cause of both AM/FM tuning discrepancies may be as simple as the tuner pulley was removed and not reinstalled correctly. Tuner issues are tough without RF test equipment.
The eBay seller ceitron is a reliable source. He's what's left of Consolidated Electronics. Many original IC's etc. Since you bought 2 (?) I imagine he was your source for the IC - he often sells in pairs.
No, it wasn't blowing fuses. Is the fuse black inside, or just opened? Which fuse? Schematic shows 3. Fuses blow because something is pulling too much current through them. In the 2225, it could be outputs, shorted diodes in power supply, leaky/shorted capacitors in power supply. You need to isolate the area then pinpoint the cause.
@@raygianelli3612 fuse on the outside of the unit. When I pulled the first one it was blackish, when i replaced it and it immediately blew it was just opened
I have the exact opposite problem...no voltage on j109(white wire) for FM and a solid 13 volts on j107 for AM...AM works poorly and FM is a slight pop where I would expect a station on the dial. No noise on FM but static when I have it on MONO. Someone else has been in this rig before.
I'm not sure in degrees, but it's set to whatever it came from the factory set to, around 2 on the dial IIRC. If it gets clogged I occasionally set it all the way up to help melt the clog.
Hey Ray. I would have thought it may have been the supply wire at the pin or the resistor. What made you think it was the IC bringing down the voltage? Thanks.
Friend Ray, good morning I have a marantz 2270 that doesn't turn on the stereo light, it doesn't mark the gain in the VU and when I activate the mute, it stays silent. I injected an external fi channel at the output of the detector and from here towards the monoblock the signal is perfect because the stereo light turned on and the gain was set on my receiver. What could be happening?
Hi, som profissional serviços! This usually points to issues in the front end. Carefully check the voltages on FET's H101 and H102. I say carefully, as it's easy to short a terminal to a can on these FET's. One or both may need replacement, and voltage checks can help pinpoint which one is bad. Check out Part 4 of the Marantz 2265B video, where I show this. Ray
@@raygianelli3612 I took an external receiver, separated the IF channel and injected it into the J 205 and J 204 pci terminals of the marantz and into my receiver, the stereo turned on and the vu showed a very good signal when tuning through marantz, I think the front end is ok
@@Gradientetecnology Those points not only bypass the front end but the IF section as well, and feed directly into the multiplex. Try injecting at J201 and J202 (GND).
I used to do that too, but sockets can cause issues over time, with corrosion between socket legs and IC pins. Soldered connections have better longevity, and with the desoldering iron there's very little stress on the PCB traces.
@@raygianelli3612 hi again, well I scoured the TH-cam page and everything, I do see the line "when I was a kid" but there is no email address anywhere, the only thing I found was a TH-cam link to your TH-cam page.
i have de 2238b the fine tuning fm is stuck on high position not moving the fm radio work perfectly and very strong signal the meter is good because i tried with onother new one from a technics the same problm stuck at high right position what should be the problem
Loved watching this. I've had an old Model 2225, which I am embarrassed to say, had been sitting in my garage for years. I now have it in my home office, connected to a record player. The FM stations aren't working, and some of the lights are out. I will probably try to open it up, blow out the dust that has accumulated over the years, and maybe test the voltage in the areas you showed. Thanks for giving me the confidence to try to fix this up.
Jim, working on this stuff can occasionally be tedious and frustrating, but the feeling you get when you fix something that previously wan't working is unparalleled. Thanks for the kind comment!
A pleasure to watch someone so well attuned to the work hes doing. So satisfying, deciding on a solution for a problem, executing, and being proven right, Good one Ray.
Your work methodology is excellent ie. checking the cap polarity while pulling it out and verifying silkscreen polarity indicator as validation.
Thanks. It's amazing what getting burned a few times will teach you!
Thank you , Ray! The 2225 sounds amazing after your good work. I’m super grateful for your knowledge
Great work, Ray. I know you have shown doing an alignment, but you can't show that too many times for those of us trying to get up to speed with it. It would be really helpful if you would show at least the highlights of your alignments whenever you do them. Keep the videos coming. They are always a learning experience.
Thanks Steven. All these videos have been a learning experience for me as well. I have to review and really get a grasp on this stuff before I start recording. Or, as I'm fond of saying, I have to remember stuff I never learned. 😁
I'll get some alignment video going in the near future. In the meantime, xraytonyb has got some really good videos dealing with alignment.
“‘old man visor” - lol, I have one too. I use mine when I’m terminating/splicing fiber optic as well as circuit boards. Another great video - thanks!
Where are you splicing fiber? At work, I assume.
@@raygianelli3612 Yes,for my customers. I own a small telecom business - pbx systems and networking.
My day job is in telecom. Work for a large telecom that used to be called the phone company. :)
@@raygianelli3612 I spent 31 years at Southern Bell and BellSouth. I loved working for Southern Bell, but divestiture messed it all up.
Missed out on those years. Started at Bellsouth in 2000. Heard that from all my coworkers though...
When you were talking about wax Ray I was working on a Sansui receiver and it had wax on it as well and I assumed someone had burned a candle on top and it ran down in, it was a mess to solder components.
Pat, I haven't been able to find why they used wax on that IC. But there has to be a reason. Maybe someone will chime in here and educate us all!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. its asuper great help. love the chanel
Thanks for the kind words, and welcome!
Late to the party as usual .... but FWIW... that waxy substance under the chips (10:32) us used to stabilize the chip before soldering. Generally it is used instead of bending pins... but it looks like Marantz did both.
Also on the end note about counterfeit parts...
We should all be aware that laser re-branding is becoming an actual business and many interchangeable but less used chips (the hundreds of 8 pin op-amps, for example) are now being rebranded as more popular chips... For example: I've seen estimates that as much as 1/2 of the NE5532s are rebrands and of late I've pulled a number of them out of the Chinese made Chip-Amps.
Note: I don't think the amp builders are to blame for this. It appears the supply chain has somehow become polluted with rebrands.
Wow, I never knew that. Thanks Douglas!
@@raygianelli3612
The NE5532 is very easy to check, you can even do it in-circuit. Take your multimeter and look for a diode signature on the input pins 2 and 3 and/or 5 and 6. No diodes == fake.
Other Op-Amps are much harder to detect, sometimes you just can't be sure.
For audio purposes I keep a supply of known good (from Mouser) RC4558s on hand as they are considered a "jelly bean chip" that can replace most audio op-amps without problems.
If you do some searches, you will find a ton of information about the counterfeit parts problem.
The wax thing comes from my days working on computers... they used to put a little dab of wax under the parts to secure them for wave soldering.
I just got my "old man visor" But I don't feel old.... They sure do help
They do indeed! The only things I envy the young for is their closeup vison and ability to sleep long periods without waking to pee. :)
Have the same Model 2225...Stereo Light will not come on with +3.5 Signal Strength and FM Tuning Meter Dead Centre, also Tuner is misaligned in both FM and AM. So FM 101 is at 104 and AM 1010 is 1060, etc. Approach to fix these issues? Are they related? Great Video easy to understand and do.
Lack of stereo lamp is often discriminator misalignment. Possible cause of both AM/FM tuning discrepancies may be as simple as the tuner pulley was removed and not reinstalled correctly. Tuner issues are tough without RF test equipment.
The eBay seller ceitron is a reliable source. He's what's left of Consolidated Electronics. Many original IC's etc. Since you bought 2 (?) I imagine he was your source for the IC - he often sells in pairs.
Not this time, but I've bought from Steve in the past. I use eBay instead of ceitron's web site because it wasn't secure last time I tried it.
Any videos on troubleshooting this exact model but for it blowing fuse?
No, it wasn't blowing fuses.
Is the fuse black inside, or just opened? Which fuse? Schematic shows 3. Fuses blow because something is pulling too much current through them. In the 2225, it could be outputs, shorted diodes in power supply, leaky/shorted capacitors in power supply. You need to isolate the area then pinpoint the cause.
@@raygianelli3612 fuse on the outside of the unit. When I pulled the first one it was blackish, when i replaced it and it immediately blew it was just opened
I have the exact opposite problem...no voltage on j109(white wire) for FM and a solid 13 volts on j107 for AM...AM works poorly and FM is a slight pop where I would expect a station on the dial. No noise on FM but static when I have it on MONO. Someone else has been in this rig before.
J109 is your FM output. Check J111 for DC when in FM mode.
Ray, what temperature do you typically run your desoldering tool at? (Great videos, BTW!)
I'm not sure in degrees, but it's set to whatever it came from the factory set to, around 2 on the dial IIRC. If it gets clogged I occasionally set it all the way up to help melt the clog.
Hey Ray. I would have thought it may have been the supply wire at the pin or the resistor. What made you think it was the IC bringing down the voltage? Thanks.
PM sent.
Friend Ray, good morning I have a marantz 2270 that doesn't turn on the stereo light, it doesn't mark the gain in the VU and when I activate the mute, it stays silent. I injected an external fi channel at the output of the detector and from here towards the monoblock the signal is perfect because the stereo light turned on and the gain was set on my receiver. What could be happening?
Hi, som profissional serviços! This usually points to issues in the front end. Carefully check the voltages on FET's H101 and H102. I say carefully, as it's easy to short a terminal to a can on these FET's. One or both may need replacement, and voltage checks can help pinpoint which one is bad. Check out Part 4 of the Marantz 2265B video, where I show this.
Ray
@@raygianelli3612 I took an external receiver, separated the IF channel and injected it into the J 205 and J 204 pci terminals of the marantz and into my receiver, the stereo turned on and the vu showed a very good signal when tuning through marantz, I think the front end is ok
@@Gradientetecnology Those points not only bypass the front end but the IF section as well, and feed directly into the multiplex. Try injecting at J201 and J202 (GND).
I always install an IC socket when I suspect an IC to be bad. If it's not the problem, it's easy to put it back in the circuit.
I used to do that too, but sockets can cause issues over time, with corrosion between socket legs and IC pins. Soldered connections have better longevity, and with the desoldering iron there's very little stress on the PCB traces.
Hi Ray, I'd love to send you a video of the FM issue I have with my marantz 2230b. Is there any way I can contact you?
The link to my Gmail account is shown if you click on the text that is located 2 lines under my name, and begins with "I was one of those kids".
@@raygianelli3612 hi again, well I scoured the TH-cam page and everything, I do see the line "when I was a kid" but there is no email address anywhere, the only thing I found was a TH-cam link to your TH-cam page.
@@VeghTheHun Did you click the line?
@@raygianelli3612 yes and it just pops up asking me to share a link to your TH-cam page.
i have de 2238b the fine tuning fm is stuck on high position not moving
the fm radio work perfectly and very strong signal
the meter is good because i tried with onother new one from a technics the same problm stuck at high right position
what should be the problem
Hi Totti. I'm not understanding the question. What do you mean by the fine tuning being stuck on the high position?
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