Brilliant to watch this coming together. Very inspiring. P. S. Several people that I watch on TH-cam comment on "continuity issues" in their videos. I have to say that personally I never notice. I'm watching DIY so have a low requeried standard of immersion.
it's going to turn out awesome! I just cleared out my own shed, reminds me of yours now much space you have when you don't have any stuff in it ;) it feels so liberating to know what you have and don't have, but it fills up quickly :)
Hi there! If you want reliable and high quality bits for your impact driver, you should consider buying Hazet. They are very expensive, I know, but since I got them, I will never buy anything else. Worst bits are always from the power tool companies like Bosch, Metabo and so on, because they buy them cheaply in an that's it. I get them to shear off quite easily. Regards, Etna.
Very informative, but I'd get more if the sizes of the CLS timber used in the studwork was mentioned. Any chance a material's list could be posted ? Another thing, where is the vid showing building the floor ? Cant find it, that would help as I intend a project almost identical to this one!.
Quick question for anyone who knows. Breather membrane - Is it stapled to the studwork? Do you need to tape it to seal it? Is it lapped? Thanks. Trying to work out how punctures for fixings are dealt with.
Great video, if you could put up details of material used I.r timber Damp prodding and screws etc that would make the video even better. Just a suggestion.
Have you left a gap between the block work and timber? I’m going to insulate my concrete fab garage and I’m not sure if I need an air gap or not I’m using the same membrane on the back and 85mm kingspan foil taped
Love your videos, they’ve helped me through lots of little projects. I’ve watched your garage conversion series a lot as I’ve been toying with the idea myself but never really pressed ahead with it. However I’m now looking to convert 2/3rds of my detached single skin garage to use as a garden room / gym. I’ve always been set on timber but I’ve since seen a few videos on metal stud work and for ease of use it seems a viable option. You said that you’ve used metal in a previous conversion, can I ask how you found using the metal stud work? And also how did you get around insulation and vapour barriers? I’m thinking you could put rigid insulation in between the metal studs but I’m wondering how to would go about fixing a breather membrane to the studs. Any help and experience you can share would be a massive help. Keep up the good work and content 😀
Really like the vid. Im converting garage exacrly the same. I have to create a new 2 course perimeter using common brick.due to slope. and low dpc level on solid wall. When i bridge a new dpc from new perimeter. Is it better to stick down wirh contact adhesive and then lay bottom plate timber to stud.
There's so much more to just doing the labor - there's heart, and family, and precious memories! I love watching your videos and wish you and your family a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Greetings from Virginia!
Hi Tim I’m in the process of converting my garage right now after watching all your videos. One thing I don’t recall seeing is how to handle windows and door ways. Are you ok to build a timber frame round them and mount plaster board directly to the frame inside the recess? I’ve not left any room for insulation and am hoping I don’t have to re do them! Thanks!
Can you say a few words about where the horizontal members of your stud wall should be placed (i.e. how did you determine how large the insulation panels should be, vertically?)
Hi Tim, thanks for all the useful info! I’m hoping to start converting my standalone single skin brick built garage soon so this channel is very helpful. Why did you put a mortar bed under some stud walls and not others, and is it necessary to fix the bottom plate to it after its dried? Is it ok to screw through the DPC? I see some other comments asking how the air flow is created between the stud and the brickwork...any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hi. I appreciate all your videos. Now I am about to make a study room from the end of a single brick wall garage, which has a doorway knocked through from the house. I have only 3x3m space. Is it OK to dot and dab insulated plaster boards onto the single brick garage walls?
Interesting, you put the vapour barrier on the rear face, facing the cold wall. I guess it stops the cold moist air getting into the wood. I understood it needs to be the inside face, with the insulation behind. I am confused now. Maybe it doesn't matter? would like some feedback from anyone who knows.. I am currently planning the same, nit on such a big scale
That is not a vapour barrier, it’s a breathable membrane to keep timber frame dry if moisture got through masonry. Vapour barrier is always inside like you say, warm side of wall. In this case taped foil boards.
Hi, do you have an update on this now you have lived with it for some time? It does make a lovely studio now! I am looking to do the same in a similar (but much smaller) space and wonder if you would do it any differently if you had to do it over again? Thanks for your help and all your great content. Keep it up
It’s a great space and probably the most thermally thing efficient in the whole house. Insulating externally is always worth looking at if possible but if not this route works great.
Great videos , thank you. You used hangers on the suspended floor but I couldn't see how the other ends were fastened. They seemed to be just resting on the base frame of the stud that you constructed. Cheers
I watch and rewatch your videos constantly in preparation for an existing extension refit with stud walls and insulation. Thanks for taking the time to create, edit and post all these. When you fitted the stud frames, you did you butt them against the external wall completely or leave a slight gap between the stud, breather membrane and the blocks? Cheers.
Hello, I saw that you insulated the floor last and you overlap the DPM on the new walls. Most of the builders start first with the floor and overlap the DPM on the bricks wall and then insulated the walls. Is there difference? I'm asking because I already insulated my walls and now building control asked me to overlap the DPM 15 sm but didn't explain me on which wall. The existing one or over the insulation :(
Great videos, and learning a lot. One question, I notice you don't use pilot hols when assembling the stud frames. What type of screws do you use that allow you to screw into the end grain without splitting?
Great video learnt lots. Thinking of doing this myself. Moving soon and new house needs lots of work. I want to do garage conversation for a utility room and games room and want to make a rough budget for the whole house.How much was total cost for your conversion?
I’m converting my garage. It’s single skin brick walls, would you recommend the damp proof membrane or shall I paint it with anything? Looking to plasterboard and plaster on top.
Another fantastic video. I think I have the same Rage Saw as you but your blade looks like it gives a better fine cut. Which blade do you use? I use the one it came with.
Hi mate, so I’m going to convert my double garage. I don’t get what you do with the pillars , just frame either side and stick plasterboard straight over them ? Great vids by the way . Cheers
Hi. I’m building an internal insulation stud wall for our kitchen and I’m following your video. Quick question... I was planning to have the breather membrane stapled to the back of the frame as you have done - which will sit flush against the wall, and then have an air gap behind the insulation boards within the frame. Is this a good plan or does it need an air gap between the wall and the breather membrane as well?
Hey... Just come across your videos, great work, great videos. Just hoping you can clear this up for me as I keep finding conflicting info on the internet. Basically converting integral garage on a new build house. The builder has bricked the garage door bit up and dropped in a window. Now I am hoping to do some of the work before the plasterers come in... so the question is, the 2 walls that are brick (well grey block) (the other two walls are both internal walls and already plastered). I am going to timber batten then drop insulation in etc as you have here. But do you leave an air gap between the battens and the wall, or fit them direct to the wall with a damp proof sheet between them... some say leave a gap so air can get through, then some say the gap will cause moisture so everything should be but up against the wall nice and tight... any advice would be grateful.
Depends on construction. Assume it is single block not cavity already. It is likely to be much dryer than ours as you will have dpc and modern render, etc. It may be that insulated pb is suffecient or battened off. I would guess that air gap is less of an issue as it will not be vented anyway. Ask your BCO on their next visits. 👍
What mitre saw do you have ? I know it’s the evolution one and how do you find it? I have there smallest version but have found its to small for most been looking at dewalt, would appreciate your input cheers
It’s fine as far as size but not super accurate for trim work. It’s done the whole house renovation and lasted well but next time it will be a Bosch or hitachi.
After watching your video we have decided to buy a house requiring renevation. One issue i have im my current house that i dont want when i move is heat loss from the external walls. Is timber framing with internal insulation with plasterbaord the best option seeing as we want to hang items on the walls?
Every wall is different. Depends on the house and walls, you can insulate externally too which leave internals as they are but effects look outside. You can cavity fill, use insulated pb, stud walls, etc. Lots of routes.
@@TheRestorationCouple we want to keep the external look of the house as it is (1930's) so internal is what we are going for. I was thinking insulated stud wall with insulated plasterboard. Due to not wanting to lose to space we were only going to do the external walls. Is that pointless? thanks for replying.. Josh
Joshua Taylor Not pointless but remember if you are insulating walls you need to go through building control and they will require the minimum you value for renovations. That means a significant thickness of insulated plasterboard and by the time that is over stud work you will lose lots of room space. Is it cavity wall construction? You may be able to fix insulated plasterboard direct to walls but really depends on the building.
Hi @therestorationcouple how did you handle the stud walls where your boiler system is attached to the garage wall? Got a similar set up and considering what we do.
@@robsolway3827 Yes. I did however fit a sheet of plywood between studs and plasterboard so pipe clips and brackets could go anywhere. The main boiler brackets hit studs though.
Don't bother with impact bits, just buy the basic dewalt/bosch bits. they honestly last the same and they are a quarter of the price. I have tried every impact bit on the market and just gave up in the end.
Your seal plate should be either pressure treated or sitting on a pressure treated seal plate. Moisture will migrate through hat concrete floor and straight into those studs.
Okay, brace for appreciation thread: Those 55.000 subscribers are not even close to the amount you "should" have because of all the useful stuff you teach us. I'm just 25 I don't even need to know half of this extravaganza of skill and solutions to problems you might encounter when you own a home. Need a new boiler? No problem. Buying a shed for your car maintenance? Nope just build a garage because why not. And here I am, enjoying myself with some coffee or some chips/cookies and learning stuff about basically anything related to tools. Just wanted to say something appreciative and keep doing what you're doing, it's really helpful and enjoyable at the same time! Might come in handy some day for some of us. ;) Came for the van, stayed for the immensely warm person that's actually working his face off instead of me, sitting in front of the computer. >:)
I've got Milwaukee impact bits, and done lots with them, built the whole deck, fences, cupboards, you name it. Only broken one ph1 I think it was the ph2 is still going strong.
I’ve been using a Robertson #2 4” impact bit made by DeWalt. It has been in my impact driver for over 5 years and driven thousands of screws. Highly recommend you try it out.
Hello with all the work you may still have maybe it might be worth investing in a laser distance measuring tool one for a Christmas present of your wife maybe please keep the excellent videos coming and hope for many many more HAPPY CHRISTMAS to The Restoration Family
Thanks for posting all your videos. A question.... you didn’t leave an air gap between the brick and your new stud wall. I am looking to do a similar conversion but the advice is the air gap is crucial. I would rather not leave one as I am limit on space. Can I get away with no gap?
"There's no reason not to" [use treated timber]. Correct. However, there's no reason *to* either. As you've constructed, pressure treated timber would be an unnecessary expense. Not mention that it's much heavier, and more difficult to work with (cutting, nailing, etc.). Good choice there.
I did use a treated timber on the bottom of a couple which could be a good middle ground compromise. Having used treated roof joists you do notice the weight!
I think if I had a nice flat slab to lay it out on the nailing would be fine. That said screws are slightly easier for pulling in twisted timbers. Maybe I just need more practice with the gun. 👍
I was gonna say the same. The framers sitting in the background yet you are screwing your studs on? Anyway, brilliant work mate. True craftsman! Looking forward to watching the rest of your content.
Would building the floor in two sections be too much of a hassle? That might give you the opportunity to get the pavillion emptied and still allow you to finish a little later.
It's always difficult trying to juggle family life and a project so understand what you mean WRT the help request. I'd love to come and help you one day, I'm just down in Dorset so only a couple of hours to Bath area. Trouble is having a family too I'd need a couple of weeks notice of the date you are planning, especially if a week day as would need to book time off work. Would be great to be able to help on the workshop build though.
@@TheRestorationCouple Thank you. I thought that was the case but wanted to make sure. I'm considering converting my garage into a living room and your video was very helpful in building up my courage to start this project. Any tips you can provide for a 1st time novice?
Wiha hot torsion bit from Screwfix!!!!!! Putting in 1000’s of screws a day... and usually lots of self tapping so sitting in the screw even longer.. I can make my bits last around 20,000 screws I’d say! I also use to use gold screw pz2&3 bits when I used gold screw screws from Screwfix as they were designed to fit their screws great! But wiha are the best!!!!!!! www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-hot-torsion-screwdriver-bit-pz2-x-50mm/7905g
Hi Tim. Thanks for all the useful info. One thing has me scratching my head though. What's the breather membrane for between the stud wall and the external wall. In latter video's you created a foil vapour barrier. So a puzzle for me. Cheers.
In my experience of working in the tool trade, generally its not the bit that's at fault. Low quality screws are the problem as they do not flex causing more strain on the bit. Wera do bits designed with flex in them, they normally have a green band in the middle to identify this. You also should make sure your bits are designed for impact drivers not all are. Also dewalt and the other power tool brands don't make their own bits they just brand cheap stuff. If you want quality buy from a brand like wera that makes all their own bits. Equally nothing last for ever.
This channel has not been recommended to me even though I’m apparently a follower. 😞
Notifications are ON! Great stuff sir 👏
Lots of forward progress in this one. Well done!
The range of your working playlist is hilarious haha
Brilliant to watch this coming together. Very inspiring.
P. S. Several people that I watch on TH-cam comment on "continuity issues" in their videos. I have to say that personally I never notice. I'm watching DIY so have a low requeried standard of immersion.
We have the same hairstyle mate!
Well done video !
Tim! You legend. Thanks for teaching us
one word mate, wera Impact. They are cracking bits and have never let me down.
Thats two.
Makita gold impact bits are awesome. I had the same one for at least a year untill it chipped. Highly recommended
it's going to turn out awesome! I just cleared out my own shed, reminds me of yours now much space you have when you don't have any stuff in it ;) it feels so liberating to know what you have and don't have, but it fills up quickly :)
Looking good, nice to take time of my own build to watch someone else doing work. :) have a great Christmas 🎄
Hello Tim, I use WERA impact bits, always had good results with them
Thanks Tim - that was like an early Christmas present on what is a very rainy day here!
genuine timco bits dont shatter
I have enjoyed your video. You explain it very well. I have learnt a lot thank you.
Hi there!
If you want reliable and high quality bits for your impact driver, you should consider buying Hazet. They are very expensive, I know, but since I got them, I will never buy anything else.
Worst bits are always from the power tool companies like Bosch, Metabo and so on, because they buy them cheaply in an that's it. I get them to shear off quite easily.
Regards,
Etna.
Love watching this progress 👍
That’s going to be a great work space!
Very informative, but I'd get more if the sizes of the CLS timber used in the studwork was mentioned. Any chance a material's list could be posted ? Another thing, where is the vid showing building the floor ? Cant find it, that would help as I intend a project almost identical to this one!.
It's 2x4 CLS... But depending on your project a common size is 2x3
Quick question for anyone who knows. Breather membrane - Is it stapled to the studwork? Do you need to tape it to seal it? Is it lapped? Thanks. Trying to work out how punctures for fixings are dealt with.
The Wera diamond impact bits are pretty indestructible in my experience.
Great video, if you could put up details of material used I.r timber Damp prodding and screws etc that would make the video even better. Just a suggestion.
Hi there.
Gotta say, the video's are a great help! Would you put a DPC as well as DPM on the INSIDE of the walls as well as within the wall build??
16:10 Is your drill still behind that wall? 🤣
He was walking around for a couple hours repeatedly saying “Where in the hell did I put my drill”
Also is cromar 3 classic ok to use as breather membrane to stud
Have you left a gap between the block work and timber? I’m going to insulate my concrete fab garage and I’m not sure if I need an air gap or not I’m using the same membrane on the back and 85mm kingspan foil taped
do you need to worry about haveing a cavity behind the stud work? Great vids btw
Love your videos, they’ve helped me through lots of little projects. I’ve watched your garage conversion series a lot as I’ve been toying with the idea myself but never really pressed ahead with it. However I’m now looking to convert 2/3rds of my detached single skin garage to use as a garden room / gym. I’ve always been set on timber but I’ve since seen a few videos on metal stud work and for ease of use it seems a viable option. You said that you’ve used metal in a previous conversion, can I ask how you found using the metal stud work? And also how did you get around insulation and vapour barriers? I’m thinking you could put rigid insulation in between the metal studs but I’m wondering how to would go about fixing a breather membrane to the studs. Any help and experience you can share would be a massive help. Keep up the good work and content 😀
Really like the vid. Im converting garage exacrly the same. I have to create a new 2 course perimeter using common brick.due to slope. and low dpc level on solid wall. When i bridge a new dpc from new perimeter. Is it better to stick down wirh contact adhesive and then lay bottom plate timber to stud.
Try the gold makita bits. They aren’t magnetized but they do last
There's so much more to just doing the labor - there's heart, and family, and precious memories! I love watching your videos and wish you and your family a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Greetings from Virginia!
Why windbariour behind studs innside already a room. Is for holding the insulation away from the concrete wall ?
Hi Tim I’m in the process of converting my garage right now after watching all your videos. One thing I don’t recall seeing is how to handle windows and door ways. Are you ok to build a timber frame round them and mount plaster board directly to the frame inside the recess? I’ve not left any room for insulation and am hoping I don’t have to re do them! Thanks!
I’ve just done this in our rendered breezeblock shed in the garden but used plastic sheeting instead of roof felt. Is this going to cause me problems?
What’s the best place for buying all the wood for this in bulk? B&Q or a timber merchant?
Builders merchants however it can often be cheaper for CLS in wickes or b&q so woerth comparing.
selco is doing good deal at the minute@@TheRestorationCouple
Can you say a few words about where the horizontal members of your stud wall should be placed (i.e. how did you determine how large the insulation panels should be, vertically?)
Hi Tim, thanks for all the useful info! I’m hoping to start converting my standalone single skin brick built garage soon so this channel is very helpful. Why did you put a mortar bed under some stud walls and not others, and is it necessary to fix the bottom plate to it after its dried? Is it ok to screw through the DPC? I see some other comments asking how the air flow is created between the stud and the brickwork...any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hi. I appreciate all your videos. Now I am about to make a study room from the end of a single brick wall garage, which has a doorway knocked through from the house. I have only 3x3m space. Is it OK to dot and dab insulated plaster boards onto the single brick garage walls?
Hello, What workpants are you wearing in the beginning of the video?
Really enjoying this series. what size of timber and screws did you use ?
Very useful thanks just getting ready to do the same in my garage. What fixing did you use to fix into the block work?
Interesting, you put the vapour barrier on the rear face, facing the cold wall.
I guess it stops the cold moist air getting into the wood.
I understood it needs to be the inside face, with the insulation behind.
I am confused now.
Maybe it doesn't matter?
would like some feedback from anyone who knows..
I am currently planning the same, nit on such a big scale
That is not a vapour barrier, it’s a breathable membrane to keep timber frame dry if moisture got through masonry. Vapour barrier is always inside like you say, warm side of wall. In this case taped foil boards.
@@TheRestorationCouple thank you. That makes sense.
Hi, do you have an update on this now you have lived with it for some time? It does make a lovely studio now! I am looking to do the same in a similar (but much smaller) space and wonder if you would do it any differently if you had to do it over again?
Thanks for your help and all your great content. Keep it up
It’s a great space and probably the most thermally thing efficient in the whole house. Insulating externally is always worth looking at if possible but if not this route works great.
Great videos , thank you. You used hangers on the suspended floor but I couldn't see how the other ends were fastened. They seemed to be just resting on the base frame of the stud that you constructed. Cheers
Yes the were bearing on the short stud wall and fixed down.
I watch and rewatch your videos constantly in preparation for an existing extension refit with stud walls and insulation. Thanks for taking the time to create, edit and post all these.
When you fitted the stud frames, you did you butt them against the external wall completely or leave a slight gap between the stud, breather membrane and the blocks?
Cheers.
I prefer to leave a small cavity which prevents any bridging of moisture in the outer block work.
The Restoration Couple thanks for the reply. My thoughts exactly. Really appreciate the reply. Great videos. Learning so much. Cheers.
Hello, I saw that you insulated the floor last and you overlap the DPM on the new walls. Most of the builders start first with the floor and overlap the DPM on the bricks wall and then insulated the walls. Is there difference? I'm asking because I already insulated my walls and now building control asked me to overlap the DPM 15 sm but didn't explain me on which wall. The existing one or over the insulation :(
How much did you back the stud off the main wall?
I was wondering the same thing, what should the air gap be between stud inner and brick outer?
Whats the distance you are marking out at 2:20 ? in cm please
Where please did you get the impact stapler from?
Impact bits, I use WERA with no issues. Impakter range
Why use timber frame when metal stud would be way cheaper, last longer and a lot easier to build?
Good job, great vid. I’m just starting, lol
Did you hide your drill behind the studwork? 16.06minutes?
Fortunately not. 😂
Great videos, and learning a lot. One question, I notice you don't use pilot hols when assembling the stud frames. What type of screws do you use that allow you to screw into the end grain without splitting?
Spax or turbogold usually.
Great video learnt lots. Thinking of doing this myself. Moving soon and new house needs lots of work. I want to do garage conversation for a utility room and games room and want to make a rough budget for the whole house.How much was total cost for your conversion?
I’m converting my garage. It’s single skin brick walls, would you recommend the damp proof membrane or shall I paint it with anything? Looking to plasterboard and plaster on top.
Why you don’t put the horizontal pieces before you wrap the wall?
Hadn’t decided where I wanted them yet that’s all. Would have been fine to do first.
Happy belated birthday wishes to Jo, as well!
John Coloe shut up you melt
What size iss the wood and I was going to put the paper the other way around as seeen in another vidio :( what way is the right way
Another fantastic video. I think I have the same Rage Saw as you but your blade looks like it gives a better fine cut. Which blade do you use? I use the one it came with.
Screwfix now do a cheaper version with the same odd sized bore. It’s holding up fine and much cheaper.
@@TheRestorationCouple thank you
Hi mate, so I’m going to convert my double garage. I don’t get what you do with the pillars , just frame either side and stick plasterboard straight over them ? Great vids by the way . Cheers
Studs were flush but then carried insulation over the top of studs and piers.
@@TheRestorationCouplehow do you carry insulation over if the studs were flush? Doesn’t the plasterboard have to be attached to the studs?
Can you advise which timber did you use? Treated or softwood. Thanks
Usually treated sole but regular CLS everywhere else.
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks alot
Very surprised to see you put a wall up - covering the outside garage door entrance? You don't want a vehicle access door?
It’s being converted to part of the house. It will be removed and bricked up soon. 👍
Hi. I’m building an internal insulation stud wall for our kitchen and I’m following your video. Quick question... I was planning to have the breather membrane stapled to the back of the frame as you have done - which will sit flush against the wall, and then have an air gap behind the insulation boards within the frame. Is this a good plan or does it need an air gap between the wall and the breather membrane as well?
Did you ever find out about this? I also would like to know
Hey... Just come across your videos, great work, great videos. Just hoping you can clear this up for me as I keep finding conflicting info on the internet. Basically converting integral garage on a new build house. The builder has bricked the garage door bit up and dropped in a window. Now I am hoping to do some of the work before the plasterers come in... so the question is, the 2 walls that are brick (well grey block) (the other two walls are both internal walls and already plastered). I am going to timber batten then drop insulation in etc as you have here. But do you leave an air gap between the battens and the wall, or fit them direct to the wall with a damp proof sheet between them... some say leave a gap so air can get through, then some say the gap will cause moisture so everything should be but up against the wall nice and tight... any advice would be grateful.
Depends on construction. Assume it is single block not cavity already. It is likely to be much dryer than ours as you will have dpc and modern render, etc. It may be that insulated pb is suffecient or battened off. I would guess that air gap is less of an issue as it will not be vented anyway. Ask your BCO on their next visits. 👍
Thanks for the reply... brick then block which I think has insulation in the cavity.
John McNIFF then it couldn’t be easier, just skim or dot and dab. 👍
More!
What mitre saw do you have ? I know it’s the evolution one and how do you find it? I have there smallest version but have found its to small for most been looking at dewalt, would appreciate your input cheers
It’s fine as far as size but not super accurate for trim work. It’s done the whole house renovation and lasted well but next time it will be a Bosch or hitachi.
After watching your video we have decided to buy a house requiring renevation. One issue i have im my current house that i dont want when i move is heat loss from the external walls. Is timber framing with internal insulation with plasterbaord the best option seeing as we want to hang items on the walls?
Every wall is different. Depends on the house and walls, you can insulate externally too which leave internals as they are but effects look outside. You can cavity fill, use insulated pb, stud walls, etc. Lots of routes.
@@TheRestorationCouple we want to keep the external look of the house as it is (1930's) so internal is what we are going for. I was thinking insulated stud wall with insulated plasterboard. Due to not wanting to lose to space we were only going to do the external walls. Is that pointless? thanks for replying..
Josh
Joshua Taylor Not pointless but remember if you are insulating walls you need to go through building control and they will require the minimum you value for renovations. That means a significant thickness of insulated plasterboard and by the time that is over stud work you will lose lots of room space. Is it cavity wall construction? You may be able to fix insulated plasterboard direct to walls but really depends on the building.
Hi @therestorationcouple how did you handle the stud walls where your boiler system is attached to the garage wall? Got a similar set up and considering what we do.
Boiler is hung on the studs.
@@TheRestorationCouple ah so you've sited the boiler after installing the studwork and insulation?
@@robsolway3827 Yes. I did however fit a sheet of plywood between studs and plasterboard so pipe clips and brackets could go anywhere. The main boiler brackets hit studs though.
Don't bother with impact bits, just buy the basic dewalt/bosch bits. they honestly last the same and they are a quarter of the price. I have tried every impact bit on the market and just gave up in the end.
I think I’ll go back to them, have not noticed these lasting any longer.
Is that the new festool ladder line?
German engineering at its best. Got the extension kit too! 😂
The Restoration Couple bet the systainer box is a beauty 😂
Dan Austin it hooks up behind the van!
Save a lot of money by doing it quickly and secretly so the Code inspector won't jerk you around.
Yeahhhhh
Your garage is smaller now
Your seal plate should be either pressure treated or sitting on a pressure treated seal plate. Moisture will migrate through hat concrete floor and straight into those studs.
Hi John, Can you please explain to me what a seal plate is? I'd like to understand this further thanks.
The muzzak got on my nerves so I switched off
16:07 If you are looking for your drill... it's behind the stud wall...
Fortunately spotted in time! 👍
The Restoration Couple glad you caught it always a bummer
this is so satisfying to watch. you guys are finally getting a proper utility and an extra room as well. so nice
Okay, brace for appreciation thread:
Those 55.000 subscribers are not even close to the amount you "should" have because of all the useful stuff you teach us. I'm just 25 I don't even need to know half of this extravaganza of skill and solutions to problems you might encounter when you own a home. Need a new boiler? No problem. Buying a shed for your car maintenance? Nope just build a garage because why not. And here I am, enjoying myself with some coffee or some chips/cookies and learning stuff about basically anything related to tools. Just wanted to say something appreciative and keep doing what you're doing, it's really helpful and enjoyable at the same time! Might come in handy some day for some of us. ;)
Came for the van, stayed for the immensely warm person that's actually working his face off instead of me, sitting in front of the computer. >:)
I've got Milwaukee impact bits, and done lots with them, built the whole deck, fences, cupboards, you name it. Only broken one ph1 I think it was the ph2 is still going strong.
I’ve been using a Robertson #2 4” impact bit made by DeWalt. It has been in my impact driver for over 5 years and driven thousands of screws. Highly recommend you try it out.
Hello with all the work you may still have maybe it might be worth investing in a laser distance measuring tool one for a Christmas present of your wife maybe please keep the excellent videos coming and hope for many many more HAPPY CHRISTMAS to The Restoration Family
It went out on the Christmas wish list so fingers crossed!
Thanks for posting all your videos. A question.... you didn’t leave an air gap between the brick and your new stud wall. I am looking to do a similar conversion but the advice is the air gap is crucial. I would rather not leave one as I am limit on space. Can I get away with no gap?
Hello! What’s the membrane you put on the back of the studs to stop wood to wall contact?
Thanks!
Great video. What’s the purpose of the breather membrane between the stud and the wall?
"There's no reason not to" [use treated timber]. Correct. However, there's no reason *to* either.
As you've constructed, pressure treated timber would be an unnecessary expense. Not mention that it's much heavier, and more difficult to work with (cutting, nailing, etc.). Good choice there.
I did use a treated timber on the bottom of a couple which could be a good middle ground compromise. Having used treated roof joists you do notice the weight!
@@TheRestorationCouple Your doing it right, Tim.
Your videos are very handy, and the tools list was very helpful too, thanks. Please could you post a materials list for the walls and floor?
I've not had any real issues with the Milwaukee impact bits. Do they fit your screw heads snug?
Slowly getting there Tim. Nice to see it progressing...soon have your tools back in the dry.
Is the stud wall flush to the blockwork or is there an air gap?
Did you box around the pillars too?
Season's Greetings to you and your family from California!
I prefer nails in framework anyways because they have a higher sheer strength than screws. Nothing wrong with using a nail gun for framing!
I was going to make the same suggestion. Nail gun over screws for framing every time.
I think if I had a nice flat slab to lay it out on the nailing would be fine. That said screws are slightly easier for pulling in twisted timbers. Maybe I just need more practice with the gun. 👍
I was gonna say the same. The framers sitting in the background yet you are screwing your studs on? Anyway, brilliant work mate. True craftsman! Looking forward to watching the rest of your content.
Would building the floor in two sections be too much of a hassle? That might give you the opportunity to get the pavillion emptied and still allow you to finish a little later.
It's always difficult trying to juggle family life and a project so understand what you mean WRT the help request. I'd love to come and help you one day, I'm just down in Dorset so only a couple of hours to Bath area. Trouble is having a family too I'd need a couple of weeks notice of the date you are planning, especially if a week day as would need to book time off work. Would be great to be able to help on the workshop build though.
Just found your channel and it's brill. Keep up the good work.
7:47 what is the roll of plastic used around the stud assembly?
DPC (damp proof course)
Hi, can you kindly provide details of what membranes you used behind the wall batons? Thanks
Just roofing breather membrane.
@@TheRestorationCouple Thank you. I thought that was the case but wanted to make sure. I'm considering converting my garage into a living room and your video was very helpful in building up my courage to start this project. Any tips you can provide for a 1st time novice?
Wiha hot torsion bit from Screwfix!!!!!! Putting in 1000’s of screws a day... and usually lots of self tapping so sitting in the screw even longer.. I can make my bits last around 20,000 screws I’d say!
I also use to use gold screw pz2&3 bits when I used gold screw screws from Screwfix as they were designed to fit their screws great! But wiha are the best!!!!!!!
www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-hot-torsion-screwdriver-bit-pz2-x-50mm/7905g
Hi Tim. Thanks for all the useful info. One thing has me scratching my head though. What's the breather membrane for between the stud wall and the external wall. In latter video's you created a foil vapour barrier. So a puzzle for me. Cheers.
In my experience of working in the tool trade, generally its not the bit that's at fault. Low quality screws are the problem as they do not flex causing more strain on the bit.
Wera do bits designed with flex in them, they normally have a green band in the middle to identify this. You also should make sure your bits are designed for impact drivers not all are.
Also dewalt and the other power tool brands don't make their own bits they just brand cheap stuff.
If you want quality buy from a brand like wera that makes all their own bits. Equally nothing last for ever.