Late breaking news! I found some bugs in the DM1000 meter. If you let it power off automatically and awaken it by pressing a button, the small four digit display may not work reliably, instead flashing between zeros and a correct value. The replacement meter I received was much more likely to do this than the original. Another bug involves the MIN/MAX mode and the switching of temperature measurement units. Whenever one switches between °F/°C, the stored minimum/maximum data points should be invalidated and cleared. Neither of the meters I have do so.
Great to see your new video.. I've recently had eye surgery and had to lay face down but with a mirror I have been able to watch a lot of your old and new videos I was sure glad to be able to watch your videos as I have been recovering.. learned a few things from all your videos and got a few good laughs along the way.. your cooking videos with your mom were good keep up the great work!
I've used this multimeter heavily for over 2 years now on high and low voltage DC and AC circuits and I can say, this is an excellent review. I think it's a pretty good multimeter for the price. For anyone reading these comments, I can elaborate on a few of the features Bill touched on. 1. The backlight timer is almost a deal breaker. I don't know how long it actually stays on for but when you're intently working on something it seems like about 15 seconds. It's VERY annoying. 2. I bought 2 of these meters (one for a friend) and neither of them included an adapter for the thermocouple. 3. The kickstand does indeed suck. It feels like you're going to break the thing every time you use it. 4. The non-contact voltage detection is useless. Like Bill said, there's no indication that you're even in the non-contact mode (very reassuring right?). Also, the function doesn't seem to work as well on my meter. If it works at at all I have to be damn near inside the circuit for the alarm to sound. So to re-reiterate what he said, there's no way in hell I would ever rely on that function as a reference of any kind. Here is a huge deal MAKER about this meter. The thermistors used as input protection, although simplistic, are very robust. I was measuring resistance across 2 terminals with over 300 volts DC across them for a good solid 5 seconds before I realized the circuit was energized. Not a proud moment but suffice it to say the meter works the same today as it did the day I got it. After that incident, the resistance setting immediately ceased functioning (reading everything as open). I'm not sure how long that behavior persisted since I switched to another meter but I'm assuming it corresponds with the length of time it takes for the thermistors to cool down. After that, good as new. I wouldn't go doing it on purpose but my meter took it like a champ. All that said, pretty damn good meter for the price. Wish I had that thermocouple adapter though.
I watched this video because I wanted to know about the external temperature connection and how to use the thermocouple, sadly this is the one area that was left out. Other than that you did a good job in reviewing this multimeter - Thank you.
Using the included thermocouple is pretty straightforward: just plug it in (an adapter plug is included) and make sure the polarity is correct. Turn the dial to the temperature setting, and you're there. You can change the scale of measurement (F/C) using the FUNC button.
Hello uxwbill : I just bought the Ames DM1000, and cannot figure out how to use the thermocouple supplied...it does not "plug in" anywhere on the meter. The instructions on (my) page 11 are worthless. The included thermocouple is yellow, with narrowly spaced prongs. Not red per page 11. Any experience with this? You pulled similar from case and tossed aside without any demo.
The manual has an error. You should have received a plug in adapter for the thermocouple. (At the time I got my meters, this adapter also had a set of sockets for a transistor tester that you can't actually use. I don't know if it still does.)
Does the min max button also show average? I'm looking for a meter that does that because when doing parasitic draws the manual states to ignore the min and max readings and use average reading. I know some flukes have it but was looking for something less expensive.
Nice work. From what I could tell from the video the way that HFT colored or influenced your review was in how they responded to your concerns in a positive way as it should. That would be a good thing from my point of view much like a negative response from a company would influence a review in the opposite way. Well done there, but I do miss hearing catch phrase "smoke test" in your video. It's just not the same without it.
Great review, but I came away with a question that I don't see in the specs and possibly missed in your review: what is the minimum current and voltage that this meter will measure? I'm looking for a hobby/maker grade trms meter but when fooling with small voltage circuits, need to be able to measure down to 10ma current. Will this meter do this accurately? The fluke 117 'electricians' meter fails this, and I'm not ready to spend $500 on a fluke 87.
This meter has both microamp (up to 660uA) and milliamp (up to either 66 or 660 mA depending upon scale) testing ranges for AC And DC voltages. You can manually select a scale or let the meter autorange. Both the AC and DC voltage measurement modes have a millivolt range, but you'll have to manually select it with the RANGE button. The range of millivolt measurement is from 0-660mV. There are also higher low voltage measurement ranges that you may also select manually or the meter will automatically set the proper range. I did not test the lowest current ranges for accuracy, but have used the microamp range several times on flame sensors, where it has produced what appear to be accurate numbers. I do not have a precision low current reference to verify.
I feel like I should disclaimerize this: don't try the mentioned practice in this comment if you have access to the mentioned voltages. These meters might be rated to deal with them, but ya know, they are from Harbor Freight so if something happens, workman's comp might be difficult. So, I picked up one of these meters around the time I was getting started in HVAC/R when I managed to blow up one of my Klein meters. Having had both this and the Cen-Tech greenboi meter for several years (and now having worked in an industrial environment for a couple of years), I can say while these are probably not recommended for high power/high voltage, I have been ballsy enough to just slap these across 600VAC (as well as doing some phase tests on 3 phase 480VAC because why not) and, absolutely don't try it for yourself, but I can confirm that they at least didn't blow up violently on me and both seem to still be within a reasonable degree of accuracy.
As if this video wasn't bad enough in the length department, here comes what will probably be a feature length response to your comment. I would be willing to believe that these newer Ames meters from HFT would fail safely in the event of a catastrophic event, but that they'd fail nevertheless. I don't really plan to test that. I still have and quite like the Cen-Tech "greenboi" meter for stuff around the house. Oh, it'd be nice if it had true RMS capability, but one can't have everything. Around the time I bought it, I also picked up a Mastech MS2108 TRMS AC/DC clamp meter for eventual use in the field. (At the time, it was what I could afford.) My HVAC/R instructor was very big on the notion that one had to use the tools provided by their employer (or, in this case, the HVAC/R lab). I didn't much care for the UEi Phoenix meters they had. Only one of them was a true RMS unit. All of them were kinda slow and well used. As luck would have it, the first night we were to use the meters in class, they were locked up and the instructor didn't have the key. Only two people -- myself and another student -- had meters with us (his being a Fluke, mine the aforementioned Mastech clamp), so we agreed to loan them to the class that night. He looked at the Mastech clamp and was quite impressed, saying "that's a nice meter, it has true RMS capability". Nothing more was ever said about having to use the lab's meters, so I didn't. I often brought in a few others because sometimes it was handy to have more than one meter to test with. I also dug up the lab's old Simpson 260 and popped some new batteries in it. I think it surprised the heck out of my instructor that I knew what it was and how to use it. (So, one night in class, it was the only meter I used, just because I thought it'd be fun. I have a weird idea of fun.) Anyway, to kinda try and wrap this up...a few classes later, I'd finished my lab projects for the night and was messing around with the lab's Supco megohmmeter. I got the brilliant idea to hook its output up to the Cen-Tech green meter and hit it with a pulse. The meter displayed a voltage reading in excess of its limits, beeping angrily the whole time, but it survived without any trauma. I'd still think twice about ever exposing it to anything much above 208/240 volts, and never use it in an actual panel. (I also tried the same thing with the Mastech clamp. As best I remember, it just quietly displayed a voltage reading. It too survived without a problem.) I've used the heck out of that MS2108 clamp meter in class and for the time I spent in the field. It's never given me any trouble, not even after my father's idiotic dog got a hold of it and gave it a good chewing up.
I don’t know why, but it always amuses me to see these not triple digit price meters just work on concerningly high voltages. Also, if you wanna talk weird ideas of fun, I spent an obscene amount of time back in around 2018 (Hi8 videotape may exist somewhere) testing some expensive meters that were not mine (and one which was) in order to see the accuracy of either the meters’ frequency counters or my computer’s sound chip.. just for fun. I found that the Ames and at least the greenboi Cen-Tech meter are about as accurate as a Fluke and a Klein (actually, it was blowing up said Klein meter that drove me to buy the greenboi the first time around).
The part that interested me is the chipset, meters with that chipset tend to be calibrated very accurately and can be corrected via software. The only thing i don't like is the case the pcb is in, it makes it look like a kiddies toy from the toy box, i'm supprised that they did that. Even the mastech green meter you have looks better. Ooow nice washing machine bill :-D
The DTM0660 is an outstanding chip. Being able to customize one's meter completely through software means is very handy. I think it's only going to become more and more popular. I'd love to see a version with higher AC/TRMS bandwidth, if one doesn't exist already. I'm not a fan of that washing machine, though it's probably the best of a bad lot. Whirlpool has done a good job of standing behind it, though. Had it been my choice, I'd have gone with a tried and true Speed Queen model.
Bill, I am just starting to watch your video on the ames multimeter. I am looking to use it in an automotive application. Will this work for automotive or should I look elsewhere?
I would suggest that you buy a meter with a DC amp clamp if you also use the meter for automotive use. It's nice to be able to just clamp the meter around a wire and see how much, if any current is flowing through it. I have a Klein CL800 that I paid $80 for on sale, and so far I love it. Hope this helps
Awesome video as always! I would personally never pay $70 for this multimeter, but that's just me. Not that I think it is a bad multimeter, but I think that there are much better multimeters for the money. I would personally like to at least have an AC amp clamp on the meter for this price. I have a Klein CL800, which works very well for me as a car enthusiast, electronics enthusiast, and homeowner. I paid $80 for it, and so far it has been working perfectly. So in my opinion, paying $10 extra to get a meter with all the features of this meter, plus an AC/DC amp clamp was a smart decision for me. Plus, it's also made by a well known company, which isn't a bad thing.
outstanding review! It's been awhile---but I just bought one of these...and it has a MS3204 "multifunction socket"--No idea what it is or how to use it---no mention of it in manual...any help would be gratefully appreciated..
Near the end, after you mentioned posting your HF original review, didn't you also say that it was deleted, a few days later? IMO, I'd be happy that someone had reached out to make it right, but not so much in exchange for a public silencing. That is, I'd offer to revise it or post a follow-up, but not to have it disappear entirely.
I don't see it that way. HFT farms out their product review system to "PowerReviews" and from what I've seen of that platform, I'd not be surprised if it was impossible to edit a review after it had been posted. Edit to add: I have published other, far more negative reviews to the HFT web site that are still there today.
Regardless, I still firmly believe that there's a big difference between "make it right" & "do it to shut him up." But again, that's my personal opinion.
This is the same meter as the Mastech ms8251b. Earlier versions like ms8250d had usb interface with windows os. Ir did not have lo z. Ms8251a did away with usb and added lo z functions.
It's anyone's guess where they got the name. Around the same time this meter hit the market, HFT launched a line of headlamps under the Quantum name. Their logo bears more than a slight resemblance to that of the Quantum Corporation.
Bill, I just saw this video as I bought this very meter after the Cen-tech, model 61593 and it was not very good. First off the leads were defective and secondly, a small short at a LM7815 voltage regulator (15V DC) in a phono stage I built that kept blowing LED's after a few hours and in testing the third leg, the leads slipped and caused a short (a small spark and a poof of magic smoke) I think pooched the meter as the battery light would not go out with a fresh battery and acted like it might be low (still showed 9V with another very basic Gardner Bender meter I have) and the display kept jumping around for a time and flashing in any mode outside of resistance mode. Anyway, exchanged it for the DM1000. Even I had gave suspicion that the 61593 was not really CAT III rated. Anyway, bought the DM 1000 for a $52 difference and it's true RMS. From your video, glad to see it has the better slow blow ceramic fuses in there and the proper separation of the connectors, something the 61593 didn't have and only one lead, mA I think it was, was fused and only with a standard glass fuse. For my needs, I think this meter I bought this morning should suffice and I can use it to test the thermostat and elements in my dryer, though there, not plugged in to determine why it won't heat up and thus takes forever to dry clothes. I did replace the timer last spring however as it went south (an older Whirlpool, likely 15-20 years old or a bit older). So while I will agree it's no Fluke, nor a Brymen or Agilent, it should suffice for lower power jobs just fine.
I watched the whole video, because there is a grayish two prong accessory device with mine and the instruction book says absolutely nothing about how or where to use this little accessory device. I saw the same accessory device in your video in the introdutory part and hoped you would touch on the use of the two prong device. What is its use? What function on the dial do you use? Since I have the little grayish accessory device and the instructions do not say anything about it, can you say something here in comments about it? I do not see a way to attach a picture to my question, which would help identify what I am talking about. Hope my description is enough?
That's likely the adapter provided to let you connect the included Type K temperature sensor. There is an NPN/PNP transistor test area on this adapter, but this meter doesn't have that function.
@@uxwbill, Thanks for the quick reply, The Provide red and black leads with the Temperature sensor on the end does work to measure temperature, but the wires going to the red and black lead connectors are very small and could easily end up broken if not careful. So I was wondering if I accidently break the provided tiny wire connectors how to use this Type K adaptor. I googled Type K Temperature Sensor Adapter and found some sensors and adaptors at various locations. see link below. My grayish adaptor plug does seem to span and plug into the appropriate connectors on the multi meter to measure temperature, but it appears I would need an additional adaptor to actually use it. I found this link for a miniature Type K flat blade plug sold by Grainger that might fit into our grayish colored adaptor. My Provide grayish adaptor does have a place where it looks like two flat blade connectors could plug into it. Do you think this yellow miniature adaptor would be the one needed to actually use our Type K adaptor? www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Thermocouple-Plug-36GK84?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Customers_Also_Purchased-_-AZIDPBR_6294-9431-3&cm_vc=AZIDPBR_6294-9431-3&req=Customers_Also_Purchased I am assuming if my current tiny wires break at the connectors. I could simply cut the red and black wires and then wire the red to the positive side and the black to the negative side of this miniature Type K plug and then plug into the grayish type K adaptor that came with our units. oh wait, I just tried screwing off the red and black plastic insulator and found it does screw off and that reveals a soldered joint where the red wire is soldered to the red banana type connector. So if I do break one or both of these connectors I guess I could also just buy a new banana type connector and re-solder the wires to them. At this point, I just do not see why they provided an adaptor that will not work without buying another adaptor? Or perhaps I am missing something? Initially, I had the adaptor in my hands and wondered, what do I do with this since it is not even mentioned in the instructions? Thanks for your fast reply. Do you think am I correct about needing to buy additional adaptors in order to to use the one provided. Thanks!
johntube2525 I am confused by your description of what came with your meter. You might want to take a picture of what you received and post a link in your reply to this comment. You should not need anything more than what came with the meter to use the included temperature probe. The probe should have a connector with two bladed contacts set into molded plastic. This plugs in to one end of the adapter and then the adapter would plug in to the multimeter's test jacks.
@@uxwbill, I think that is where the confusion comes in. Mine did not come with a flat bladed connector, just the grayish adaptor with round connectors that will plug into the meter. It also came with the banana plugs on the actual temperature sensor, which does plug into the meter and works to measure temp. I took good pictures, but I do not know how to attach them. I tried to copy one and paste it here, but it doesn't let me, paste. Did you click on the link I provided and is that the flat bladed connector you are refering to. If so, I did not get one in my package. Thanks, for all your time and video John
Just out of pure curiosity...are you sure you have the DM1000 multimeter instead of the DM1010? The DM1010 comes with a grey adapter much like you describe. It's not directly useful and has a bunch of empty spaces on it for transistor tests that the meter itself can't actually perform. You could only use it if you had a thermocouple with the yellow type of connector you linked above. The DM1010 also comes with a thermocouple that plugs in directly with banana plugs.
I have another question- How much of a safety hazard can a "phantom voltage" present? I haven't tried this for obvious reasons, but I am thinking that if a person touched 2 wires with even a pretty high "phantom voltage", the voltage would drop to almost zero volts, therefore presenting very little danger. Am I right? Thanks
Almost all of the time, I'd say very little to none. Yet there are always those few edge cases that conspire to make one's life interesting. It's the same basic principle by which an electrical transformer operates, and if a wire were to be wrapped several times around a live conductor (with particularly high voltage) there might be enough energy induced on the wire to cause a shock.
Would you recommend the Ames dm1000 over the cen-tech 5 in 1. The cen tech 9874 went up $20 to 79.99 but I have found it cheaper on ebay for about $37 with taxes and shipping included and the Ames cost 74.99. Is the cen tech the superior meter or is the Ames the better meter?
Klein is a good brand known for years for the hand tools and I own several of the meters and find them good quality for the money spent and good for what they are . I don't have this meter yet but I am game to try it out since I went to school for hvacr snd want to use it so my other meters will not get stolen cause people will recognize that the Klein is not from harbor freight and steal it from me so.....@@charlygoehring6155
Seems like a good all around DMM. Have you ever done any voice on radio or tv? I asked only because you seem to have that type of voice. Thanks for your review on the DMM from Harbor Freight.
I think it's OK for the money, maybe a bit less so after they cranked up the price by $10 or so. No, I've never worked in radio or TV. Nor have I done any voiceover work.
Ames instruments. Hmmm that name is popular. Like the old ames department store. Anyway good review. Beginning of video. Was like what was couple days ago selfie day or was that yesterday I dont know anyway keep cool this summer!
I recently purchased one of these and would like to get a couple spare fuses to have on hand just in case. I checked on Amazon and there seems to be common type fuses for most branded meters, would assume these would be fine for this meter. Can someone verify or provide a link to a good replacement, thanks.
What you want is an HRC/HBC sand filled fuse. In case you were to connect your meter with the probes in current measurement mode across a live circuit (particularly a high energy one), these type of fuses are designed to prevent or extinguish an arc. A glass or fake HRC/HBC fuse can sustain an arc or even explode violently. Do *NOT* replace them with glass fuses. Be very, very aware of fake fuses and only buy from reputable names and retailers. Specs for the larger fuse: www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electrical-circuit-protection/fuses/data-sheets/bus-ele-ds-1047-dmm-b.pdf The smaller fuse: www.amazon.com/7012540-Quick-1000V-Ceramic-6-3x32mm/dp/B01N221U4X
@@uxwbill Thanks for the info. I pulled the back cover on mine to take a quick look. The smaller fuse in mine is rated for 600mA compared to the one 1A one in your ref. link. Did yours meter ship with a 1A fuse? I think a safer option would be a 500 - 600mA.
I could be wrong about the low current range fuse rating. The meter wasn't handy at the time (and still isn't now). However, the high current rating info is correct, as I have a pack of those fuses "just in case".
At 29:06 when point to the PTCs, couldn't some of them be MOVs? I'm not an expert either. Actually I'm much farther from one than you, but what's the point of having PTCs without MOVs? It is my understanding that PTCs are slow, they would need the MOVs to short circuint and push them to increase their resistance.
The issue with this is you never want to be in a sitiuation where you doubt your tools. If your meter malfunctions and tells you there is no voltage when there is you could end up dead. That would give me the willies.
If your dinking arround with Low voltage DC this is fine. But at any reasonable voltage ill take my fluke any day. Funerals are more expensive than flukes.
As I said in the video: I always carry two meters. Maybe not with me, but I've got one in the truck if I need it. As I didn't say outright in the video but probably should have: *always* test your meter on a known live circuit before trusting it. Even as much I'd like to own a Fluke meter (like, say, the 87V) I don't because I don't think the cost/value proposition is there. Maybe someday.
I love that case your mom made out of jeans. It's awesome and a great idea. Ames hunh? I'm not sure if that's a good predecessor to the centech. At least it had the hrc sand slow burn fuses. Its interesting the freight meters, like to see what they come up with. I'm spoiled with my Fluke and Agilent meaters. Seems like a fairly decent cheap meater, Great video though!
I'd have much rather seen an updated version of the Cen-Tech P98674, with the true RMS capability added. I don't know if Harbor Freight would have enough clout with Mastech to get that done or not. I've been very happy with the P98674, and it goes *everywhere*. (In fact, I bought another one just in case it dies.) Although I have nothing against Fluke or their products, I don't find the price/value relationship to be compelling enough. Someday, though, I'll have that Fluke 87V. Or maybe a Fluke 179 at the least.
Huh. It was a pretty odd video artifact showing a random piece of the circuit board in that multimeter, colors inverted. Must have been something originating at my CPU, since I was rendering a video when I watched this video.
About a year out from this video, they're still not using the revised back design, but then again, that doesn't make much difference at least where I'm presently working.
I have Klein, ideal, uei and other brands but I have yet to get one just to try I have seen the reviews on the website of harbor freight as a good tool/ meter but I like you want to see for myself that it is worth the money spent on the meter to recommend it to others who want an affordable price meter
I'll put this as charitably as I can when I say that at least some of those reviews on the HFT site were posted by people who meant well. Unfortunately, a lot of them just aren't very good reviews. This meter is OK value for money. It's got some firmware bugs, and could be better shielded against external interference. I'm sure HFT is confident in its being safe, though it's an unknown if the meter actually survives the experience. My guess is that it doesn't.
Not a bad meter for HF, but doesnt look like the board has all the protection it should for the $70 price, you can buy a low end Fluke for that much and have excellent build quality with much better protection - though it wont have all the functionality of the Ames meter. If Im going to buy a $70 meter it wont be at HF there are better options in that range, Amprobe also comes to mind or a Greenlee.
My take on it is that the meter failed safely in the ETL tests, but failed nevertheless. The Fluke is likely far, far more robust. Ultimately, I suppose one has to decide if they ascribe more value to robustness or the true RMS capability and extra test ranges. I have an Amprobe AM-530 multimeter and while I remember it getting somewhat mixed review for robustness, I've been very happy with it. The one time it's been tested in my possession, nothing bad happened and the meter survived (although one of the probes is a bit scarred). I bought it lightly used, though with a blown 10A fuse, so it's probably been tested at least twice.
@@uxwbill Agreed, choice depends on what you want/need out of the meter features or protection, one of my meters is also an Amprobe AM-520 and its one of my main favorites right up there with my Fluke 17B+ regardless of the Amprobes lesser input protection - and it also cost about half of the Fluke so its all relative.
the part where you where pointing and touching things inside the multi meter with the graphite pencil MADE ME CRINGE. let me explain this. graphene/graphite is highly conductive. and touching things inside like that is asking for trouble to blow up in your face. just a small scuff across traces is all it takes.
This isn't the big deal you're making it out to be, not by a long shot. Graphite's not that great of a conductor and I didn't come down in the last shower. I'm also not the first person to use a pencil as a pointer in an electronic device, nor will I probably be the last.
Also try to get a 9v rechargeable you will find they do not exist. They do but all the 9v batteries say 8.4 and if your device has strict voltage requirement and hold the line at 9volts then rechargeable s want work. What I'm saying is there is no such thing as a true 9volt re-chargeable their all 8.4 volts./
There actually are some "proper" 9 volt rechargeable batteries made these days. Most are a lithium ion chemistry. Unfortunately, many of them use a boost converter and that'll prevent a low battery from being detected until it simply conks out.
Hah! You are spoiled, I have to sew my own stuff although my mom is a pro with a sewing machine. Just got the orange one versus the green one could not decide as I don't know how to use it very well at all. Trying to get my heater/HVAC running again!
I have given some thought to learning how to sew, so I don't have to repair my socks with a stapler. :-P Either of the HFT "green" or this "orange" meter would do for HVAC, but this one's a much better choice. I wish you the best of luck -- just be careful and know when it's time to call a pro.
Am I the only one that wouldn't trust it farther than I can throw it out the window? A lot of Harbor Freight's products are not made with the highest of quality. I would honestly consider a name brand like Fluke, Brymen, Extech, and B.K. Precision.
I doubt you will be the only one. Everyone's got their own take on it and you have to choose the tool that you can trust to do the job safely and correctly. I have no reason to doubt that HFT really had this meter tested by ETL/Intertek for compliance to the claimed CAT ratings. (Of course, the meter wouldn't have to survive these tests. It'd only have to fail safely.) As it happens, I've got meters from Brymen and Extech. Brymen certainly seems to have their act together. I'm happy with the Extech meter I have (Craftsman branded) and it certainly seems to have been built properly. However, I can't ignore the horror stories I've heard and seen elsewhere on the web about Extech's products.
Once again you manage to make a mundane subject like a multimeter very fun to watch. Kudos to you.
What a wonderful gift your mother gave you. It's nice you appreciate it so much.
Thank You !!!! Great review, purchased mine today Dec/16/2023 😊
Very pleased with my purchase $67 @ 10% discount.
Late breaking news! I found some bugs in the DM1000 meter. If you let it power off automatically and awaken it by pressing a button, the small four digit display may not work reliably, instead flashing between zeros and a correct value. The replacement meter I received was much more likely to do this than the original.
Another bug involves the MIN/MAX mode and the switching of temperature measurement units. Whenever one switches between °F/°C, the stored minimum/maximum data points should be invalidated and cleared. Neither of the meters I have do so.
Thanks for keeping us updated
Great to see your new video.. I've recently had eye surgery and had to lay face down but with a mirror I have been able to watch a lot of your old and new videos I was sure glad to be able to watch your videos as I have been recovering.. learned a few things from all your videos and got a few good laughs along the way.. your cooking videos with your mom were good keep up the great work!
every day is awesome when I hop on the computer and see a new video from uxwbill :)
Thank you for the honest disclosure at the beginning of the video. I know this sounds weird, but I really appreciate the honesty.
you are very clear in all aspects of this meter, thanks for your time
I've used this multimeter heavily for over 2 years now on high and low voltage DC and AC circuits and I can say, this is an excellent review. I think it's a pretty good multimeter for the price. For anyone reading these comments, I can elaborate on a few of the features Bill touched on. 1. The backlight timer is almost a deal breaker. I don't know how long it actually stays on for but when you're intently working on something it seems like about 15 seconds. It's VERY annoying. 2. I bought 2 of these meters (one for a friend) and neither of them included an adapter for the thermocouple. 3. The kickstand does indeed suck. It feels like you're going to break the thing every time you use it. 4. The non-contact voltage detection is useless. Like Bill said, there's no indication that you're even in the non-contact mode (very reassuring right?). Also, the function doesn't seem to work as well on my meter. If it works at at all I have to be damn near inside the circuit for the alarm to sound. So to re-reiterate what he said, there's no way in hell I would ever rely on that function as a reference of any kind. Here is a huge deal MAKER about this meter. The thermistors used as input protection, although simplistic, are very robust. I was measuring resistance across 2 terminals with over 300 volts DC across them for a good solid 5 seconds before I realized the circuit was energized. Not a proud moment but suffice it to say the meter works the same today as it did the day I got it. After that incident, the resistance setting immediately ceased functioning (reading everything as open). I'm not sure how long that behavior persisted since I switched to another meter but I'm assuming it corresponds with the length of time it takes for the thermistors to cool down. After that, good as new. I wouldn't go doing it on purpose but my meter took it like a champ. All that said, pretty damn good meter for the price. Wish I had that thermocouple adapter though.
I watched this video because I wanted to know about the external temperature connection and how to use the thermocouple, sadly this is the one area that was left out. Other than that you did a good job in reviewing this multimeter - Thank you.
Using the included thermocouple is pretty straightforward: just plug it in (an adapter plug is included) and make sure the polarity is correct. Turn the dial to the temperature setting, and you're there. You can change the scale of measurement (F/C) using the FUNC button.
I feel intelligent listening to an intelligent person like you. Im only 2 mins in and so far an excellent review, I like ur attitude and words.
Hello uxwbill : I just bought the Ames DM1000, and cannot figure out how to use the thermocouple supplied...it does not "plug in" anywhere on the meter. The instructions on (my) page 11 are worthless. The included thermocouple is yellow, with narrowly spaced prongs. Not red per page 11. Any experience with this? You pulled similar from case and tossed aside without any demo.
The manual has an error. You should have received a plug in adapter for the thermocouple. (At the time I got my meters, this adapter also had a set of sockets for a transistor tester that you can't actually use. I don't know if it still does.)
The Harbor Freight where I work part time uses decoy boxes on all Ames products due to thief. That includes the Cobra security systems as well.
Does the min max button also show average? I'm looking for a meter that does that because when doing parasitic draws the manual states to ignore the min and max readings and use average reading. I know some flukes have it but was looking for something less expensive.
Nice work. From what I could tell from the video the way that HFT colored or influenced your review was in how they responded to your concerns in a positive way as it should. That would be a good thing from my point of view much like a negative response from a company would influence a review in the opposite way. Well done there, but I do miss hearing catch phrase "smoke test" in your video. It's just not the same without it.
Good job, and you are well spoken, and easy to understand.
Great review, but I came away with a question that I don't see in the specs and possibly missed in your review: what is the minimum current and voltage that this meter will measure? I'm looking for a hobby/maker grade trms meter but when fooling with small voltage circuits, need to be able to measure down to 10ma current. Will this meter do this accurately? The fluke 117 'electricians' meter fails this, and I'm not ready to spend $500 on a fluke 87.
This meter has both microamp (up to 660uA) and milliamp (up to either 66 or 660 mA depending upon scale) testing ranges for AC And DC voltages. You can manually select a scale or let the meter autorange.
Both the AC and DC voltage measurement modes have a millivolt range, but you'll have to manually select it with the RANGE button. The range of millivolt measurement is from 0-660mV. There are also higher low voltage measurement ranges that you may also select manually or the meter will automatically set the proper range.
I did not test the lowest current ranges for accuracy, but have used the microamp range several times on flame sensors, where it has produced what appear to be accurate numbers. I do not have a precision low current reference to verify.
I feel like I should disclaimerize this: don't try the mentioned practice in this comment if you have access to the mentioned voltages. These meters might be rated to deal with them, but ya know, they are from Harbor Freight so if something happens, workman's comp might be difficult.
So, I picked up one of these meters around the time I was getting started in HVAC/R when I managed to blow up one of my Klein meters.
Having had both this and the Cen-Tech greenboi meter for several years (and now having worked in an industrial environment for a couple of years), I can say while these are probably not recommended for high power/high voltage, I have been ballsy enough to just slap these across 600VAC (as well as doing some phase tests on 3 phase 480VAC because why not) and, absolutely don't try it for yourself, but I can confirm that they at least didn't blow up violently on me and both seem to still be within a reasonable degree of accuracy.
As if this video wasn't bad enough in the length department, here comes what will probably be a feature length response to your comment. I would be willing to believe that these newer Ames meters from HFT would fail safely in the event of a catastrophic event, but that they'd fail nevertheless. I don't really plan to test that.
I still have and quite like the Cen-Tech "greenboi" meter for stuff around the house. Oh, it'd be nice if it had true RMS capability, but one can't have everything. Around the time I bought it, I also picked up a Mastech MS2108 TRMS AC/DC clamp meter for eventual use in the field. (At the time, it was what I could afford.)
My HVAC/R instructor was very big on the notion that one had to use the tools provided by their employer (or, in this case, the HVAC/R lab). I didn't much care for the UEi Phoenix meters they had. Only one of them was a true RMS unit. All of them were kinda slow and well used. As luck would have it, the first night we were to use the meters in class, they were locked up and the instructor didn't have the key. Only two people -- myself and another student -- had meters with us (his being a Fluke, mine the aforementioned Mastech clamp), so we agreed to loan them to the class that night. He looked at the Mastech clamp and was quite impressed, saying "that's a nice meter, it has true RMS capability".
Nothing more was ever said about having to use the lab's meters, so I didn't. I often brought in a few others because sometimes it was handy to have more than one meter to test with. I also dug up the lab's old Simpson 260 and popped some new batteries in it. I think it surprised the heck out of my instructor that I knew what it was and how to use it. (So, one night in class, it was the only meter I used, just because I thought it'd be fun. I have a weird idea of fun.)
Anyway, to kinda try and wrap this up...a few classes later, I'd finished my lab projects for the night and was messing around with the lab's Supco megohmmeter. I got the brilliant idea to hook its output up to the Cen-Tech green meter and hit it with a pulse. The meter displayed a voltage reading in excess of its limits, beeping angrily the whole time, but it survived without any trauma. I'd still think twice about ever exposing it to anything much above 208/240 volts, and never use it in an actual panel. (I also tried the same thing with the Mastech clamp. As best I remember, it just quietly displayed a voltage reading. It too survived without a problem.)
I've used the heck out of that MS2108 clamp meter in class and for the time I spent in the field. It's never given me any trouble, not even after my father's idiotic dog got a hold of it and gave it a good chewing up.
I don’t know why, but it always amuses me to see these not triple digit price meters just work on concerningly high voltages.
Also, if you wanna talk weird ideas of fun, I spent an obscene amount of time back in around 2018 (Hi8 videotape may exist somewhere) testing some expensive meters that were not mine (and one which was) in order to see the accuracy of either the meters’ frequency counters or my computer’s sound chip.. just for fun. I found that the Ames and at least the greenboi Cen-Tech meter are about as accurate as a Fluke and a Klein (actually, it was blowing up said Klein meter that drove me to buy the greenboi the first time around).
The part that interested me is the chipset, meters with that chipset tend to be calibrated very accurately and can be corrected via software.
The only thing i don't like is the case the pcb is in, it makes it look like a kiddies toy from the toy box, i'm supprised that they did that.
Even the mastech green meter you have looks better.
Ooow nice washing machine bill :-D
The DTM0660 is an outstanding chip. Being able to customize one's meter completely through software means is very handy. I think it's only going to become more and more popular. I'd love to see a version with higher AC/TRMS bandwidth, if one doesn't exist already.
I'm not a fan of that washing machine, though it's probably the best of a bad lot. Whirlpool has done a good job of standing behind it, though. Had it been my choice, I'd have gone with a tried and true Speed Queen model.
Bill, I am just starting to watch your video on the ames multimeter. I am looking to use it in an automotive application. Will this work for automotive or should I look elsewhere?
If all you want to do is measure temperature, voltage and current, it'll do very well. It's decent for the money.
I would suggest that you buy a meter with a DC amp clamp if you also use the meter for automotive use. It's nice to be able to just clamp the meter around a wire and see how much, if any current is flowing through it. I have a Klein CL800 that I paid $80 for on sale, and so far I love it. Hope this helps
Awesome video as always! I would personally never pay $70 for this multimeter, but that's just me. Not that I think it is a bad multimeter, but I think that there are much better multimeters for the money. I would personally like to at least have an AC amp clamp on the meter for this price. I have a Klein CL800, which works very well for me as a car enthusiast, electronics enthusiast, and homeowner. I paid $80 for it, and so far it has been working perfectly.
So in my opinion, paying $10 extra to get a meter with all the features of this meter, plus an AC/DC amp clamp was a smart decision for me. Plus, it's also made by a well known company, which isn't a bad thing.
outstanding review! It's been awhile---but I just bought one of these...and it has a MS3204 "multifunction socket"--No idea what it is or how to use it---no mention of it in manual...any help would be gratefully appreciated..
That adapter can be used to connect the temperature sensing probe or to check capacitors and other components with wire leads.
Near the end, after you mentioned posting your HF original review, didn't you also say that it was deleted, a few days later? IMO, I'd be happy that someone had reached out to make it right, but not so much in exchange for a public silencing. That is, I'd offer to revise it or post a follow-up, but not to have it disappear entirely.
I don't see it that way. HFT farms out their product review system to "PowerReviews" and from what I've seen of that platform, I'd not be surprised if it was impossible to edit a review after it had been posted.
Edit to add: I have published other, far more negative reviews to the HFT web site that are still there today.
Regardless, I still firmly believe that there's a big difference between "make it right" & "do it to shut him up." But again, that's my personal opinion.
Here do you come up with symmetry using a digital multimeter? The only meter that symmetry is actually important is in a differential meter.
When the input polarity is reversed, the meter's display should be identical (or within a *very* few counts).
This is the same meter as the Mastech ms8251b. Earlier versions like ms8250d had usb interface with windows os. Ir did not have lo z. Ms8251a did away with usb and added lo z functions.
I can't help but be reminded of the defunct department store chain named Ames.
It's anyone's guess where they got the name. Around the same time this meter hit the market, HFT launched a line of headlamps under the Quantum name. Their logo bears more than a slight resemblance to that of the Quantum Corporation.
Either the Ames department stores, or the Ames line of garden tools!
Bill, I just saw this video as I bought this very meter after the Cen-tech, model 61593 and it was not very good. First off the leads were defective and secondly, a small short at a LM7815 voltage regulator (15V DC) in a phono stage I built that kept blowing LED's after a few hours and in testing the third leg, the leads slipped and caused a short (a small spark and a poof of magic smoke) I think pooched the meter as the battery light would not go out with a fresh battery and acted like it might be low (still showed 9V with another very basic Gardner Bender meter I have) and the display kept jumping around for a time and flashing in any mode outside of resistance mode. Anyway, exchanged it for the DM1000. Even I had gave suspicion that the 61593 was not really CAT III rated. Anyway, bought the DM 1000 for a $52 difference and it's true RMS.
From your video, glad to see it has the better slow blow ceramic fuses in there and the proper separation of the connectors, something the 61593 didn't have and only one lead, mA I think it was, was fused and only with a standard glass fuse.
For my needs, I think this meter I bought this morning should suffice and I can use it to test the thermostat and elements in my dryer, though there, not plugged in to determine why it won't heat up and thus takes forever to dry clothes. I did replace the timer last spring however as it went south (an older Whirlpool, likely 15-20 years old or a bit older).
So while I will agree it's no Fluke, nor a Brymen or Agilent, it should suffice for lower power jobs just fine.
Will Fluke leads fit this model? I want to get a bigger variety of leads for this meter as I'm using it to work on my amps...Thanks.
I don't know. I don't have any Fluke leads to try.
@@uxwbill they should fit
I watched the whole video, because there is a grayish two prong accessory device with mine and the instruction book says absolutely nothing about how or where to use this little accessory device. I saw the same accessory device in your video in the introdutory part and hoped you would touch on the use of the two prong device. What is its use? What function on the dial do you use? Since I have the little grayish accessory device and the instructions do not say anything about it, can you say something here in comments about it? I do not see a way to attach a picture to my question, which would help identify what I am talking about. Hope my description is enough?
That's likely the adapter provided to let you connect the included Type K temperature sensor.
There is an NPN/PNP transistor test area on this adapter, but this meter doesn't have that function.
@@uxwbill, Thanks for the quick reply, The Provide red and black leads with the Temperature sensor on the end does work to measure temperature, but the wires going to the red and black lead connectors are very small and could easily end up broken if not careful. So I was wondering if I accidently break the provided tiny wire connectors how to use this Type K adaptor.
I googled Type K Temperature Sensor Adapter and found some sensors and adaptors at various locations.
see link below.
My grayish adaptor plug does seem to span and plug into the appropriate connectors on the multi meter to measure temperature, but it appears I would need an additional adaptor to actually use it. I found this link for a miniature Type K flat blade plug sold by Grainger that might fit into our grayish colored adaptor. My Provide grayish adaptor does have a place where it looks like two flat blade connectors could plug into it.
Do you think this yellow miniature adaptor would be the one needed to actually use our Type K adaptor?
www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Thermocouple-Plug-36GK84?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Customers_Also_Purchased-_-AZIDPBR_6294-9431-3&cm_vc=AZIDPBR_6294-9431-3&req=Customers_Also_Purchased
I am assuming if my current tiny wires break at the connectors. I could simply cut the red and black wires and then wire the red to the positive side and the black to the negative side of this miniature Type K plug and then plug into the grayish type K adaptor that came with our units.
oh wait, I just tried screwing off the red and black plastic insulator and found it does screw off and that reveals a soldered joint where the red wire is soldered to the red banana type connector. So if I do break one or both of these connectors I guess I could also just buy a new banana type connector and re-solder the wires to them.
At this point, I just do not see why they provided an adaptor that will not work without buying another adaptor? Or perhaps I am missing something?
Initially, I had the adaptor in my hands and wondered, what do I do with this since it is not even mentioned in the instructions? Thanks for your fast reply.
Do you think am I correct about needing to buy additional adaptors in order to to use the one provided. Thanks!
johntube2525 I am confused by your description of what came with your meter. You might want to take a picture of what you received and post a link in your reply to this comment.
You should not need anything more than what came with the meter to use the included temperature probe. The probe should have a connector with two bladed contacts set into molded plastic. This plugs in to one end of the adapter and then the adapter would plug in to the multimeter's test jacks.
@@uxwbill, I think that is where the confusion comes in. Mine did not come with a flat bladed connector, just the grayish adaptor with round connectors that will plug into the meter.
It also came with the banana plugs on the actual temperature sensor, which does plug into the meter and works to measure temp.
I took good pictures, but I do not know how to attach them. I tried to copy one and paste it here, but it doesn't let me, paste.
Did you click on the link I provided and is that the flat bladed connector you are refering to. If so, I did not get one in my package.
Thanks, for all your time and video
John
Just out of pure curiosity...are you sure you have the DM1000 multimeter instead of the DM1010?
The DM1010 comes with a grey adapter much like you describe. It's not directly useful and has a bunch of empty spaces on it for transistor tests that the meter itself can't actually perform. You could only use it if you had a thermocouple with the yellow type of connector you linked above. The DM1010 also comes with a thermocouple that plugs in directly with banana plugs.
I have another question- How much of a safety hazard can a "phantom voltage" present? I haven't tried this for obvious reasons, but I am thinking that if a person touched 2 wires with even a pretty high "phantom voltage", the voltage would drop to almost zero volts, therefore presenting very little danger. Am I right? Thanks
Almost all of the time, I'd say very little to none. Yet there are always those few edge cases that conspire to make one's life interesting. It's the same basic principle by which an electrical transformer operates, and if a wire were to be wrapped several times around a live conductor (with particularly high voltage) there might be enough energy induced on the wire to cause a shock.
@@uxwbill That's pretty much what I thought, thanks for confirming.
I've had a motor housing have 100v induced through a cut wire by vfd
Thanks, wasn’t sure how to use the thermocouple, and didn’t know the probe sheaths were removable.
Would you recommend the Ames dm1000 over the cen-tech 5 in 1. The cen tech 9874 went up $20 to 79.99 but I have found it cheaper on ebay for about $37 with taxes and shipping included and the Ames cost 74.99. Is the cen tech the superior meter or is the Ames the better meter?
Generally speaking, yes. It all depends upon what you want to measure, though. They're both made by Mastech for Harbor Freight.
I like my AMES DM-1000 Looks like a Klein@@uxwbill
Klein is a good brand known for years for the hand tools and I own several of the meters and find them good quality for the money spent and good for what they are . I don't have this meter yet but I am game to try it out since I went to school for hvacr snd want to use it so my other meters will not get stolen cause people will recognize that the Klein is not from harbor freight and steal it from me so.....@@charlygoehring6155
Great Review Thanks.
Seems like a good all around DMM. Have you ever done any voice on radio or tv? I asked only because you seem to have that type of voice. Thanks for your review on the DMM from Harbor Freight.
I think it's OK for the money, maybe a bit less so after they cranked up the price by $10 or so. No, I've never worked in radio or TV. Nor have I done any voiceover work.
I wonder if any multimeters have Bluetooth, so you could use earbuds / headphones to hear the continuity beeps in noisy environments?
There are some multimeters with Bluetooth capability, though it only runs to reading the current data or logging it.
That would be a good idea.
Ames instruments. Hmmm that name is popular. Like the old ames department store. Anyway good review. Beginning of video. Was like what was couple days ago selfie day or was that yesterday I dont know anyway keep cool this summer!
Matthew N purely coincidental I’m guessing but still humorous nonetheless....
I recently purchased one of these and would like to get a couple spare fuses to have on hand just in case. I checked on Amazon and there seems to be common type fuses for most branded meters, would assume these would be fine for this meter. Can someone verify or provide a link to a good replacement, thanks.
What you want is an HRC/HBC sand filled fuse. In case you were to connect your meter with the probes in current measurement mode across a live circuit (particularly a high energy one), these type of fuses are designed to prevent or extinguish an arc. A glass or fake HRC/HBC fuse can sustain an arc or even explode violently.
Do *NOT* replace them with glass fuses. Be very, very aware of fake fuses and only buy from reputable names and retailers.
Specs for the larger fuse: www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electrical-circuit-protection/fuses/data-sheets/bus-ele-ds-1047-dmm-b.pdf
The smaller fuse: www.amazon.com/7012540-Quick-1000V-Ceramic-6-3x32mm/dp/B01N221U4X
@@uxwbill Thanks for the info. I pulled the back cover on mine to take a quick look. The smaller fuse in mine is rated for 600mA compared to the one 1A one in your ref. link. Did yours meter ship with a 1A fuse? I think a safer option would be a 500 - 600mA.
I could be wrong about the low current range fuse rating. The meter wasn't handy at the time (and still isn't now). However, the high current rating info is correct, as I have a pack of those fuses "just in case".
Oh an hour long uxwbill video yeah!
At 29:06 when point to the PTCs, couldn't some of them be MOVs? I'm not an expert either. Actually I'm much farther from one than you, but what's the point of having PTCs without MOVs? It is my understanding that PTCs are slow, they would need the MOVs to short circuint and push them to increase their resistance.
I don't recall them being labeled differently on the board, and they'd likely be of a different color and composition.
The issue with this is you never want to be in a sitiuation where you doubt your tools. If your meter malfunctions and tells you there is no voltage when there is you could end up dead. That would give me the willies.
If your dinking arround with Low voltage DC this is fine. But at any reasonable voltage ill take my fluke any day. Funerals are more expensive than flukes.
As I said in the video: I always carry two meters. Maybe not with me, but I've got one in the truck if I need it.
As I didn't say outright in the video but probably should have: *always* test your meter on a known live circuit before trusting it.
Even as much I'd like to own a Fluke meter (like, say, the 87V) I don't because I don't think the cost/value proposition is there. Maybe someday.
@@d4z_l20svaQ12 much less likely to. Designed to a higher spec
I love that case your mom made out of jeans. It's awesome and a great idea. Ames hunh? I'm not sure if that's a good predecessor to the centech. At least it had the hrc sand slow burn fuses. Its interesting the freight meters, like to see what they come up with. I'm spoiled with my Fluke and Agilent meaters. Seems like a fairly decent cheap meater, Great video though!
I'd have much rather seen an updated version of the Cen-Tech P98674, with the true RMS capability added. I don't know if Harbor Freight would have enough clout with Mastech to get that done or not. I've been very happy with the P98674, and it goes *everywhere*. (In fact, I bought another one just in case it dies.)
Although I have nothing against Fluke or their products, I don't find the price/value relationship to be compelling enough. Someday, though, I'll have that Fluke 87V. Or maybe a Fluke 179 at the least.
What in the world was that... thing around the 50:19 mark?
I noticed nothing unusual in or about that portion of the video.
Huh. It was a pretty odd video artifact showing a random piece of the circuit board in that multimeter, colors inverted. Must have been something originating at my CPU, since I was rendering a video when I watched this video.
About a year out from this video, they're still not using the revised back design, but then again, that doesn't make much difference at least where I'm presently working.
I wonder if you might have found an old stock example of this meter.
I suppose it's certainly possible, I've seen several items at the local store in town which aren't even listed on the website anymore.
Professional meter? No, definitely not. Hobbyist/DIY meter? Yes... :)
I have Klein, ideal, uei and other brands but I have yet to get one just to try I have seen the reviews on the website of harbor freight as a good tool/ meter but I like you want to see for myself that it is worth the money spent on the meter to recommend it to others who want an affordable price meter
I'll put this as charitably as I can when I say that at least some of those reviews on the HFT site were posted by people who meant well. Unfortunately, a lot of them just aren't very good reviews.
This meter is OK value for money. It's got some firmware bugs, and could be better shielded against external interference. I'm sure HFT is confident in its being safe, though it's an unknown if the meter actually survives the experience. My guess is that it doesn't.
@@uxwbill thanks brother
I find it interesting that my Klein meter has a very similar layout on its display to that there Ames meter.
Not a bad meter for HF, but doesnt look like the board has all the protection it should for the $70 price, you can buy a low end Fluke for that much and have excellent build quality with much better protection - though it wont have all the functionality of the Ames meter. If Im going to buy a $70 meter it wont be at HF there are better options in that range, Amprobe also comes to mind or a Greenlee.
My take on it is that the meter failed safely in the ETL tests, but failed nevertheless. The Fluke is likely far, far more robust. Ultimately, I suppose one has to decide if they ascribe more value to robustness or the true RMS capability and extra test ranges.
I have an Amprobe AM-530 multimeter and while I remember it getting somewhat mixed review for robustness, I've been very happy with it. The one time it's been tested in my possession, nothing bad happened and the meter survived (although one of the probes is a bit scarred). I bought it lightly used, though with a blown 10A fuse, so it's probably been tested at least twice.
@@uxwbill Agreed, choice depends on what you want/need out of the meter features or protection, one of my meters is also an Amprobe AM-520 and its one of my main favorites right up there with my Fluke 17B+ regardless of the Amprobes lesser input protection - and it also cost about half of the Fluke so its all relative.
the part where you where pointing and touching things inside the multi meter with the graphite pencil MADE ME CRINGE. let me explain this. graphene/graphite is highly conductive. and touching things inside like that is asking for trouble to blow up in your face. just a small scuff across traces is all it takes.
This isn't the big deal you're making it out to be, not by a long shot. Graphite's not that great of a conductor and I didn't come down in the last shower. I'm also not the first person to use a pencil as a pointer in an electronic device, nor will I probably be the last.
Vibration from a washer or dryer is hardly enough to prove anything worthy.
Oh settle down, there's a little thing you might want to know about, known as humor.
Oh gawd, its an hr long
Also try to get a 9v rechargeable you will find they do not exist. They do but all the 9v batteries say 8.4 and if your device has strict voltage requirement and hold the line at 9volts then rechargeable s want work. What I'm saying is there is no such thing as a true 9volt re-chargeable their all 8.4 volts./
There actually are some "proper" 9 volt rechargeable batteries made these days. Most are a lithium ion chemistry. Unfortunately, many of them use a boost converter and that'll prevent a low battery from being detected until it simply conks out.
@@uxwbill Yea I know. The only thing is If you find a Actual 9v rechargeable you will also find a un-usual high sticker price.
Hah! You are spoiled, I have to sew my own stuff although my mom is a pro with a sewing machine.
Just got the orange one versus the green one could not decide as I don't know how to use it very well at all. Trying to get my heater/HVAC running again!
I have given some thought to learning how to sew, so I don't have to repair my socks with a stapler. :-P
Either of the HFT "green" or this "orange" meter would do for HVAC, but this one's a much better choice. I wish you the best of luck -- just be careful and know when it's time to call a pro.
Am I the only one that wouldn't trust it farther than I can throw it out the window? A lot of Harbor Freight's products are not made with the highest of quality.
I would honestly consider a name brand like Fluke, Brymen, Extech, and B.K. Precision.
I doubt you will be the only one. Everyone's got their own take on it and you have to choose the tool that you can trust to do the job safely and correctly. I have no reason to doubt that HFT really had this meter tested by ETL/Intertek for compliance to the claimed CAT ratings. (Of course, the meter wouldn't have to survive these tests. It'd only have to fail safely.)
As it happens, I've got meters from Brymen and Extech. Brymen certainly seems to have their act together. I'm happy with the Extech meter I have (Craftsman branded) and it certainly seems to have been built properly. However, I can't ignore the horror stories I've heard and seen elsewhere on the web about Extech's products.
volcraft vc 830 good dmm german.
There's always gonna be haters.....(Snobs)
@@timgray8055 Dude, this comment chain was from five years ago, move on.
@@1mrhamel
And yet, you still address my comment.......