Well that looks like a doozie of an inverter to me, sinewave clean and very forgiving too. Bill, you would make an excellent sales man, you can make anything sound interesting :-D.
Funny how a damn UPS where USB isn't needed at all comes with said USB cable, but a printer doesn't come with the cable which is required to use the thing.
What if you don't have an "old" printer or have an OLD printer with a parallel port Lol! Also I got a PR750LCD www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/pr750lcd from Craigslist (Of all places) for $60 ($299 MSRP) and the guy even carried it out to the car for me Also BB code does not work on the TH-cam comment box
I love this new power supply I just got yesterday because it was windy and my non-sine wave apc ups Would not carry my computer during a power flicker. I would’ve got either brand for my new one but this one was the only one in stock and it was cheaper with the same specs as APC who have loved for over a decade. That’s OK I will keep both and now my router and modem will have hours of use even if my computer takes up all the juice on the power supply
I once plugged an early 70's Magnavox stereo into an modified sine wave inverter. I quickly found out it was not happy even though current draw was well within tolerance, ect. Funniest thing is I left that stereo plugged in to the wall socket one time. Dad came in from work and his tick tracer went off when he laid it on the normally unplugged stereo. LOL.
You're fine. It detects AC voltages thru non contact methods. It's about the size of a permanent marker. The way it works is you hold it up against a wire, outlet ect. and it beeps and flashes a light if power is present. It can also work to some degree with static electricity. eg rub it on your shirt.
I started watching your hamfest finds video as there was nothing else in my subscriptions worth watching. By the end of that video this one had been newly posted; I guess that works out!
Nice smooth output there, best bit about true sinewave inverters is they're quieter too, stepped or square-wave inverters (like my Belkin and Trust UPSes) are just awful for noise when they're operating, but my two Tripp Lites are silent, apart from the scream of the beepers... :)
I have an XS1000 battery backup from APC I spent 23$ on and I've been very happy with it after I threw their 2 tiny12v batteries into the recycling bin and installed four used 35AH 12V "wheelchair" batteries in their place in a series/parallel configuration for a 24V 70AH battery bank. Run time @~ 357 Watts power draw increased from 3 minutes to over 2 hours. I did add a fan for active cooling of the power circuitry, use oversized wiring, bolted connections, and fuse protected the battery circuit to 30Amps. Once a month I externally charge each battery individually to ensure they remain balanced. On average it keeps the PC from restarting ~9 times a month. Beats spending nearly 2000 for the same performance.
I have the 1500VA version of this UPS and for under $200 (i picked it up on sale) it works well. I've unplugged it from AC power and on a full charge was able to watch a 20 minute TV show on netflix on my pc, which is about midrange spencs by todays standards, and still had 5 minutes or so to spare. And incase anyone does not know, the software you get from their website you can adjust the sensitivity for when the UPS kicks in, its not a huge amount but better than nothing.
Awesome review! Very through and informative. It's weird that your unit won't buck a high voltage though. I have a Cyberpower 1500PFCLCD and I know for a fact that it will both boost a low voltage as well as buck a high voltage. However, I also changed the sensitivity to high in the software. I have it set to boost voltage below 88 volts and buck voltage above 136 volts, and it does both quite well.
Thank You.....I bought one of these a week or so ago and really like it. Hopes it works out in an emergency for my ham radios. I had several friends recommend these to protect the radios from voltage or current spikes.
Nice review. I've got a whole house generator, which is great when the power goes out but there is a short delay between when the generator starts and it switches over. Been looking for a UPS to power my router and modem to bridge that gap in power. This one seems a bit over kill in the capacity department for my needs but I like the fact that when they say its a true sine wave it really is. Ordered the CP850PFCLCD. Thanks for the video for helping me decide.
Having bought one of these, I can point out that there are adjustments doable that require pressing combinations of the three front buttons, and they include an instruction sheet for implementing them. The ones you probably care about the most: alarm toggle, by holding down the silence alarm button for two seconds; voltage sensitivity (before it switches over to battery), by holding down the alarm and control buttons for three seconds, upon which you can change the setting by pressing the display button or the silence alarm button; the battery self-test is done by holding down the control button for three seconds.
why is thisunit say only true wave i bought yhe 1500va 900 watt pfc says pure sine wave so i just bought 2 1325va i got 1 today says best in class please cperpower explain and why for 1325 you only put 2 7 amp battery why not 9 amp they will fit in 1500 and1325 same size please explain
Only bc they went ham with the marketing. Same unit. They even added a "gaming" designation to the stock 1325 and changed the beginning skew letter to "G" for this reason. The brown box 1325 and the red boxed GX1325 are the exact same unit. I have the 1500PFC....which is the 900 watt version. It came in a no frills brown box. Bought it yesterday and this nonsense came up with the weird skews and same specs between certain skews. Major one being the 1325 in this video. My local Microcenter literally had both versions of 1325 in stock. The red box GX and the other brown box version....and the only difference is the box.
Possible answer to the battery replacement issue. aliexpress.com has LiFePO4 6+AH 32700 cells for $5 each in quantities of 10 ($49.95 + $12 shipping) . The cells are rated for 30 amp continuous discharge (not quite the 810 watts of the UPS) but they can can handle peaks of 6C (36+amps) so probably OK if the UPS isn't fully loaded. A 60 amp 8S (24 volt) LiFePO4 BMS is about $24. If you can do the assembly work, the needed 8 cells would have room to spare in the existing battery compartment. They are also rated for 2000 cycles to 80% DOD. That's less than Cyberpower wants for the pair of AGM batteries and running the batteries down repeatedly won't kill them in the first year. The BMS also includes charge and discharge protection for the batteries so the common UPS tendency to cook batteries shouldn't be a problem. The LiFePO4 solution looks good to me with the UPS protecting a 55" plasma TV, cable box, Android TV box, DVD burner, etc. The TV peaks at about 150 watts (white screen) and the average power is about 100 watts. The cable box is 20 watts and everything else in the AV cabinet probably doesn't need 50 watts. In my application, the 32700 cells would be adequate for more than the advertised "9 minutes at half power". If you need more power or need power longer, there's room in the case for an 8S 2P pack to have 24 volts at 12+AH. A slightly more expensive but easier option if you have space and want longer power would be a pair of 12V 35Ah AGMs in a marine battery box beside/behind the UPS for about $50 each plus shipping from apexbattery.com and under $20 for the battery box at Walmart. I could do that where I have the UPS sitting but perhaps not the case for most other people.
Thank you uxwbill for a very detailed clear review of this UPS ! Cyberpower was a no no in my world until I watched this review. Now I have more respect for the brand. Heck, for 200 clams, this is a darn good UPS ! Thanks again my friend. SBF
Interestingly, they do have a page for it that shows up if you run a web search against the model number. It shows a very different looking box than the one I got.
Makes me wonder if this is actually the 1350VA model relabeled, nobody would notice such a small difference in load. And if someone does notice, they are not going to complain about getting more than what was advertised.
It wouldn't be the first time BestBuy pulled those kinds of shenanigans to prevent price matching. I've got a Mitsubishi CRT rear projection high definition television (technically only an HD monitor) at home with a rather unusual model number (WS-A65) when compared with the rest of Mitsubishi's rear projection product lineup. Turns out that this was a "BestBuy exclusive" anti-pricematch product as well because it hardly differs from its sister models outside of the model number (it has a cheaper screen shield and one menu option removed; apart from that, it's functionality identical).
Are you sure that round disc isn't just a "round-to-it" that they include free so we can get things done? I mean you could totally write that on the back as it's still blank. I actually found some Round-to-it's on sale once. I bought one for my parents to be funny. It didn't work out so well. I just hope you find it more comedic than they did...
Hi Bill, I was curious what your thoughts were at this time, about Cyberpower vs APC, e.g. should I go with Cyberpower over APC at this point. The Sine Wave isn't critical for me, but what is, seems to be long term use and reliable units from APC. They seem to only last so long before I've had the units start flipping between battery and AC when there are no power issues. I was just wondering if CyberPower is a bit more reliable as a standard UPS setup. Thanks great video, and good overview and details. Made me want to consider this unit, if you think it's still worth it.
The white APC RS/XS towers are infamous for developing this problem (and other faults besides -- I have one here that powers up when it wants because a voltage regulator poops out after a while). Their later products are better. I'll buy whatever's cheaper on sale, what a client wants if they have a specific preference or what's available when I need one. I still have more APC than Cyberpower stuff, though only because that's what I usually bought back before I thought Cyberpower was a serious contender.
I think that the UPS should be fine with PBX phones. Analog phones go up to 110V when ringing. Most PBX phones operate at around 12-48 volts all the time.
SOLD! I do dev work on my desktop pc and whenever it rains (Florida) my electricity gets interrupted, seems like daily. I've had to reinstall windows thrice now the m.2 ssd can't handle those electrical interruptions. Thank you sir.
It'd be better to solve the underlying problem rather than papering over it. It's very likely that you'll see the problem of corruption again, if the computer were to fail in another way. I'd look to your SSD vendor, motherboard manufacturer and chipset provider for the latest software updates. And if you're overclocking, consider backing it down a bit.
If your water heater is fully electric (with heating elements), no. This UPS wouldn't have anything like enough capacity for that. If it's just keeping a small logic circuit or gas ignition control alive...maybe.
Bryce..... You most likely have a Power Vented Unit. So besides the electronic circuit board and controls, you also have a fan inside the unit. The fan will be the highest load part of the unit. Your owners manual should tell you the hook up voltage and designed amperage/wattage draw! Do your calculations just as you would for a computer. Trust that is of help!
I wonder if that UPS has any issue with RCD-protected circuits. I had a Belkin 1200VA that worked well over the years apart from killing its batteries every 2-year cycle, i.e. always powered the PCs fine during outages despite its modified sinewave output and no issue with the RCD. I brought home a disused APC Smart UPS 1000VA from work, replaced its batteries and as soon as I plugged it in, the RCD tripped. When I reset the RCD, the UPS powers up and works fine. Surprisingly, it does not trip the RCD during power cuts, when its AVR handles low/high voltages, turning on/off its output, etc. However, any time I unplug the UPS from mains power, it will trip the RCD when I plug it back in. As the UPS is in my bedroom, this RCD issue can be quite annoying during stormy weather. When the power cuts out even for a split-second, the UPS makes a 'thud' sound, even with its output switched off. In stormy weather, the UPS will randomly make thud sounds during the split-second power fluctuations, so I have to unplug the UPS to be able to sleep. Sure enough in morning when I plug it back in, the RCD trips and I need to set various clocks (microwave, cooker, etc.) around the house.
The Smart UPS (and many other APC products) leak some current to ground. I've never had a problem with any of them tripping a GFCI (our name for an RCD), not even when several were plugged into outlets downstream of a GFCI receptacle (and thus protected). The issue you're seeing likely has something to do with APC's ground/wiring fault indicator circuit.
Hey, I hope you see this. I'm trying to replace the batteries in one of these exact models right now... I can't get the damn ground wire off the battery. Is there a trick to that bigger plastic plug, is it like a clip that I'm not noticing?
You may find that there is a small retaining latch on the connector that protrudes through the corresponding hole in the battery terminal. It may be difficult to see under the plastic shroud.
Hi Bill, I'm revisiting this video again, as I am curious if your unit is still working without issues? Mine has been working fine for the past almost year, if a little more, and then within the last couple weeks has developed strange issues. The first one is the Power LED, it began to flicker to eventually went out, and when this started happening, it would occasionally transfer to battery and back at unusual times. I finally decided to get a new UPS as I wasn't sure if this would be trustworthy long term. After getting the new on in place, i opened the front panel where the batteries are to see if maybe plugs had come loose. I unplugged the connector, and re seated it, and now the LCD is completely dead, but the Power LED is back to dim and flickering. I did do a test today letting a typical pedestal fan run off battery until battery expired, and that worked fine, however, with the apparent random power issues it's having internally, I still don't think I'll trust it on production setups. The New unit, works fine bright indicators and display, quiet as a mouse no issues. It too is a CyberPower, but a 1500VA Simulated Sine Wave unit instead of pure. I've used most of my macs with simulated and they've worked fine. Anyway Just wanted to see if you had any suggestions beyond what I've tried. Sorry for the long comment, but I wanted to be as detailed as possible. Have a good evening.
Yes, it still works just fine. I think Cyberpower made at least a three year limited warranty on these. It'd be worth calling them up to ask. You'd probably get a whole new UPS, with new batteries.
@@uxwbill Thanks Bill, I will give them a call and find out. The two main reasons, I went ahead and spent the money to just replace it are these: 1. I'm unable to drive due to low vision, so shipping would be difficult for something this large. (if it was amazon, i could request UPS to come pick it up.) 2. From what I have read from other people's experience with cyberpower and warranty is they require you to pay shipping one way. If this is still true, then I wasn't sure ho much I'd actually save just buying a new one. I paid $189 for the model in this video which (mine is failing). The one I replaced it with yesterday which was model LX1500GU (1500VA 900w) was $159. Anyway, thanks again, I'll let you know what I find out. Oh, by the way, reason #3 I though simply buying the new unit was easier, was I live in Florida, so it's always good to have a UPS active. Warranties usually mean turn around times, so it means I would be without one. Then again, I can have this one repaired if they will now, and just use it as a backup, when it comes back.
I have another question- The power here frequently goes out, so I sometimes run my computer, monitor, TV, router, modem, and a couple of lights off of my 750 watt Harbor Freight power inverter. Everything operates fine, but the power supply in my computer makes a pretty loud buzzing noise when it's running off the inverter. The power supply is a Seasonic Prime Titanium 1000. Is this okay, or is it a problem? If it's a problem, I can get a sine wave inverter, but I'd rather not buy one unless I actually need it. Thank you in advance!
So what...youre saying the sine wav is only important when the UPS is running on its battery supply? So if im simply planning on shutting the computer down, when the power goes out then true sine isnt really a necessary feature for me? I am however concerned with getting good clean power when its plugged in to a regular ole wall receptacle, so a UPS that conditions/regulates/enhances the power, un preparation for the equipment im plugging into it. I have multiple power conditioners. Im guessing they do very litte. Thanks for your generosity in providing this video.
Some computer power supplies react poorly if the incoming power waveshape changes. A common sign of this is a sudden shutdown of the computer when the UPS switches over to its inverter and battery. Most computer power supplies don't care, and those that do are becoming less common. You might want a UPS like this if what you want to stay running during a power outage isn't a computer load. Most AC electric motors run better (more quietly, cooler and at the proper speed) from a true sine wave. This UPS, like almost any you can readily buy in a store, does perform some basic filtering of the incoming electrical supply. However, its inverter sits idle until a power problem of sufficient magnitude comes along. There are UPSes made that operate their inverter continuously. Their only use for line power is keeping the battery charged. These are called "online" or "dual conversion" UPSes. They are much less common and quite expensive. These output a true sine wave, and have no switchover delay while the inverter starts up.
Aside from "has APFC", another sign of possible compatibility issues with the modified sine wave would be if your computer PSU is so called "full range", i.e. claims to be capable of operating on 110-240V without requiring any switches.
Yeah most likely that's it, the point is that info about "110-240" should be easier to spot on the box or on the PSU itself than any mention of APFC or lack therein.
24V battery connection - I wish it was more common for sinewave UPS units to use 12V, then they'd be more adaptable to use with a car during long power outages. Although this particular model appears not to have a fan so I guess it's not a good choice for long run times regardless. As I recall, at least some APC SmartUPS units have adjustable switching thresholds for high/low input voltage. I think I tightened the thresholds on one that I use. It would be nice if this had the same adjustment. 21:30 (resistor across the data pins to signal high current USB support) aaaaaahhhhhhh... that answers a question I've wondered about sometimes.
I've yet to see a UPS with a true sine wave output that runs from a 12V input. The few APC Smart UPS models that operate from twelve volts all have a stepped output waveform. There must be a reason why. I didn't see any way to adjust the line voltage transfer points. Maybe it's possible from within the PowerPanel software. (I never use manufacturer provided software if I can avoid it.) There is actually a fan within this UPS. It's not visible and probably doesn't do much as a result, but I have heard it running. Someone asked about its surge capability. There will be a video update on that. For now, let's just say I've been pretty impressed. In the coming weeks or maybe sooner than that, I hope to be talking about something in a similar vein.
"Fast charging" is a term with a very nebulous meaning in the world of USB. Anything could make that claim and it'd be true, as long as it offered up more power than standard USB.
I have a PC with a Seasonic X 850 watt PSU 80+ gold in it that clearly has APFC and at 355 watt load had no problem running on battery power on my APC XS-1000, no sudden shutdowns, no pure sine wave baloney needed. Glad I didn't spend the wasted money on marketing of pure sine wave being necessary for APFC PSU units.
It's a fact that some APFC equipped power supplies will shut down suddenly when the input waveform shape changes. That you have one which doesn't seem to care is great -- it's just not indicative of what all APFC power supplies will do.
Does it have enough surge capacity to start a freezer or refrigerator? How about a furnace? I'm wondering if by adding an external battery bank and maybe a cooling fan could it be used in an emergency to power those.
That's a very good question. Watch for an "addendum" video to follow this one at some point. As demonstrated in the video, the UPS could and did run a furnace blower fan. However, its batteries clearly could only stand that kind of load for a very short period of time. As to long term operation, I'd have my doubts. Even with fan cooling, the circuit board, inverter parts and output transformer aren't likely to be heavy enough for constant operation, even with significant capacity derating.
uswbill - I appreciate your review. I have a question. I want to use this as an emergency power source for my internet DSL modem. Basically, i want to keep things all my battery computers alive during a disaster. The modem uses about 15W. Not very much. In my calculations, I would think that a 1500VA unit would keep this one device going for around 10 hours. Does this seem reasonable to you? Let me know if you see a flaw in my assumption. Tx
The only flaw is that of the inverter's efficiency. Especially under conditions of light load, it's not anything like 100% efficient. You should certainly get several hours of operation. If you require an extended runtime, I'd check to see what the voltage and current requirements for your modem are, and look at _regulated_ DC-DC converters. Those would be a great deal more efficient.
I usually don't like to make these types of comments on people's videos but you're like, the authority on UPSes among my sub list, and, well, yeah. My BackUPS ES 300 finally kicked the bucket and as of late I've been using an XS1000 as a power source albeit without a battery since the batteries kicked it long ago, and it still does an admirable job at just powering everything connected to it even if it can't keep things powered on through an outage. My question is...in all of your work with UPSes do you consider the XS lineup, namely the XS1000, to be worthy of throwing some money into? Been thinking of buying new batteries for it but if it's a crap UPS I don't want to really dump money into it.
A lot depends upon which generation of the "XS" series you have. If it's a white plastic tower with a row of LED lights above the power button, I'd get something else. Those have been the least reliable APC product I've ever used. *Every* one I've ever had or been around has failed and most of them went in the same way: after being without power for a while, they wouldn't go back to normal utility power for an extended period of time. The black plastic ones (usually with an LCD display) are fine.
Looks like I have the fine one then. It's a black plastic one with the LCD. Pulled it out of the trash because it was dumped for being "defective", only issue was the batteries were completely pooched. Pulled them and it powers up and runs everything connected to it just fine, of course complaining that no battery is installed. I'll probably grab a battery cartridge for it when the finances allow, then. Thanks again for your advice!
If you still have it, save all the wiring that came with the worn out batteries. Build your own battery pack from generic SLA bricks (12V, 7AH through 9AH). I usually buy the 8 or 9 AH bricks, mostly on the basis of price. I've had subpar results from SigmasTek and Universal Power Group (UPG) batteries. Pretty much everything else (especially MaxLife/MightyMax) SLA batteries have been very good to me. You'll be able to get away for about $40 instead of closer to $100 with the genuine APC parts.
Shoot, I may have accidentally tossed it when I pulled it apart to figure out whether it was worth saving or not. If not I've definitely got the cabling stored away, just have to find it.
Worst case, you can remake all the wiring from the original battery pack. It's a 24 volt system. The original used 10 gauge wire. Crimp connections are fine. In fact, you could probably get away with just making the "U" connector that joins the two batteries into a series circuit.
I have a question- Why is the capacity of most UPSes rated in volt amps? To me it seems like watt hours would be a lot less confusing to people. Thanks.
I think there's a good article about that somewhere online. A web search would turn it up. For a while, Dell sold UPSes under their own name (actually made by Eaton) that were rated in watts. I have one and might make a video about it sometime.
Do so only with extreme caution. If ever there was a gas leak, the UPS could cause an explosion. Most are not designed for use around explosive gasses.
for some reason, the name Cyberpower reminded me of a horrible review of there Computer PSUs... IDK why, couldn't find any reviews or even if they made ATX PSUs.
Not specifically. From what I see, their product consists of a line filter, surge suppression and what they call an isolation transformer. ("What they call" isn't a dig at the company or product. Isolation can mean different things with regard to the power line. True isolation means the attached load is "floating" with no part of the secondary side of the transformer referenced to earth ground.) As with other, similar products (some of which I have used), it's likely that theirs provides excellent protection from power line anomalies, but it cannot keep a load running when the power fails.
Hello, this is CoastTec! CoastTec is the only APC Certified single-phase Uninterruptible Power Supplies (UPS) service center in the United States. Our core business is focused on providing cost-effective solutions to service, manage, and maintain your UPS devices. Our clients range from home office users to Fortune 100 companies throughout North America. Would you be interested in reviewing one of our UPS units. We have never had influencers and this is something we would like to try. If you are interested let me know! Thank you so much for your time! You can check us our on Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn. (:
3 videos in 24 hours? We're Not Worthy!
I've been exceptionally busy with other things.
Well that looks like a doozie of an inverter to me, sinewave clean and very forgiving too.
Bill, you would make an excellent sales man, you can make anything sound interesting :-D.
Funny how a damn UPS where USB isn't needed at all comes with said USB cable, but a printer doesn't come with the cable which is required to use the thing.
They expect you to already have a Usb cable from your old printer
What if you don't have an "old" printer or have an OLD printer with a parallel port Lol! Also I got a PR750LCD www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/pr750lcd from Craigslist (Of all places) for $60 ($299 MSRP) and the guy even carried it out to the car for me
Also BB code does not work on the TH-cam comment box
I love this new power supply I just got yesterday because it was windy and my non-sine wave apc ups Would not carry my computer during a power flicker. I would’ve got either brand for my new one but this one was the only one in stock and it was cheaper with the same specs as APC who have loved for over a decade. That’s OK I will keep both and now my router and modem will have hours of use even if my computer takes up all the juice on the power supply
I once plugged an early 70's Magnavox stereo into an modified sine wave inverter. I quickly found out it was not happy even though current draw was well within tolerance, ect. Funniest thing is I left that stereo plugged in to the wall socket one time. Dad came in from work and his tick tracer went off when he laid it on the normally unplugged stereo. LOL.
You're fine. It detects AC voltages thru non contact methods. It's about the size of a permanent marker. The way it works is you hold it up against a wire, outlet ect. and it beeps and flashes a light if power is present. It can also work to some degree with static electricity. eg rub it on your shirt.
I started watching your hamfest finds video as there was nothing else in my subscriptions worth watching. By the end of that video this one had been newly posted; I guess that works out!
Nice smooth output there, best bit about true sinewave inverters is they're quieter too, stepped or square-wave inverters (like my Belkin and Trust UPSes) are just awful for noise when they're operating, but my two Tripp Lites are silent, apart from the scream of the beepers... :)
I have an XS1000 battery backup from APC I spent 23$ on and I've been very happy with it after I threw their 2 tiny12v batteries into the recycling bin and installed four used 35AH 12V "wheelchair" batteries in their place in a series/parallel configuration for a 24V 70AH battery bank. Run time @~ 357 Watts power draw increased from 3 minutes to over 2 hours. I did add a fan for active cooling of the power circuitry, use oversized wiring, bolted connections, and fuse protected the battery circuit to 30Amps. Once a month I externally charge each battery individually to ensure they remain balanced. On average it keeps the PC from restarting ~9 times a month. Beats spending nearly 2000 for the same performance.
*_WHOA_*
cyperpower is the best on the market won at ces 2018 apc garbage no true sine wave they need to chage or will be out of buissness
I have the 1500VA version of this UPS and for under $200 (i picked it up on sale) it works well. I've unplugged it from AC power and on a full charge was able to watch a 20 minute TV show on netflix on my pc, which is about midrange spencs by todays standards, and still had 5 minutes or so to spare. And incase anyone does not know, the software you get from their website you can adjust the sensitivity for when the UPS kicks in, its not a huge amount but better than nothing.
Awesome review! Very through and informative. It's weird that your unit won't buck a high voltage though. I have a Cyberpower 1500PFCLCD and I know for a fact that it will both boost a low voltage as well as buck a high voltage. However, I also changed the sensitivity to high in the software. I have it set to boost voltage below 88 volts and buck voltage above 136 volts, and it does both quite well.
Wow!! you are on a roll my friend . Nice unit a little pricey but i guess you get what you pay for
Thank You.....I bought one of these a week or so ago and really like it. Hopes it works out in an emergency for my ham radios. I had several friends recommend these to protect the radios from voltage or current spikes.
Believe it or not, I watched this twice.
O_o why?
I just bought the same exact one on sale on Newegg for $125 with free shipping last week. Hope she's worth it!
I think you'll be pretty happy with it. The inverter does a far better job than I expected.
Nice review. I've got a whole house generator, which is great when the power goes out but there is a short delay between when the generator starts and it switches over. Been looking for a UPS to power my router and modem to bridge that gap in power. This one seems a bit over kill in the capacity department for my needs but I like the fact that when they say its a true sine wave it really is. Ordered the CP850PFCLCD. Thanks for the video for helping me decide.
i think you can change the high line limit in the provided software
really enjoyed your review. very detailed / thorough.
also my 1500pfclcd the 1325 is your best unit thank for letting us know consumrers
Having bought one of these, I can point out that there are adjustments doable that require pressing combinations of the three front buttons, and they include an instruction sheet for implementing them. The ones you probably care about the most: alarm toggle, by holding down the silence alarm button for two seconds; voltage sensitivity (before it switches over to battery), by holding down the alarm and control buttons for three seconds, upon which you can change the setting by pressing the display button or the silence alarm button; the battery self-test is done by holding down the control button for three seconds.
why is thisunit say only true wave i bought yhe 1500va 900 watt pfc says pure sine wave so i just bought 2 1325va i got 1 today says best in class please cperpower explain and why for 1325 you only put 2 7 amp battery why not 9 amp they will fit in 1500 and1325 same size please explain
Only bc they went ham with the marketing. Same unit.
They even added a "gaming" designation to the stock 1325 and changed the beginning skew letter to "G" for this reason. The brown box 1325 and the red boxed GX1325 are the exact same unit.
I have the 1500PFC....which is the 900 watt version. It came in a no frills brown box. Bought it yesterday and this nonsense came up with the weird skews and same specs between certain skews. Major one being the 1325 in this video. My local Microcenter literally had both versions of 1325 in stock. The red box GX and the other brown box version....and the only difference is the box.
Possible answer to the battery replacement issue. aliexpress.com has LiFePO4 6+AH 32700 cells for $5 each in quantities of 10 ($49.95 + $12 shipping) . The cells are rated for 30 amp continuous discharge (not quite the 810 watts of the UPS) but they can can handle peaks of 6C (36+amps) so probably OK if the UPS isn't fully loaded. A 60 amp 8S (24 volt) LiFePO4 BMS is about $24. If you can do the assembly work, the needed 8 cells would have room to spare in the existing battery compartment. They are also rated for 2000 cycles to 80% DOD. That's less than Cyberpower wants for the pair of AGM batteries and running the batteries down repeatedly won't kill them in the first year. The BMS also includes charge and discharge protection for the batteries so the common UPS tendency to cook batteries shouldn't be a problem.
The LiFePO4 solution looks good to me with the UPS protecting a 55" plasma TV, cable box, Android TV box, DVD burner, etc. The TV peaks at about 150 watts (white screen) and the average power is about 100 watts. The cable box is 20 watts and everything else in the AV cabinet probably doesn't need 50 watts. In my application, the 32700 cells would be adequate for more than the advertised "9 minutes at half power". If you need more power or need power longer, there's room in the case for an 8S 2P pack to have 24 volts at 12+AH.
A slightly more expensive but easier option if you have space and want longer power would be a pair of 12V 35Ah AGMs in a marine battery box beside/behind the UPS for about $50 each plus shipping from apexbattery.com and under $20 for the battery box at Walmart. I could do that where I have the UPS sitting but perhaps not the case for most other people.
Thank you uxwbill for a very detailed clear review of this UPS !
Cyberpower was a no no in my world until I watched this review. Now I have more respect for the brand.
Heck, for 200 clams, this is a darn good UPS !
Thanks again my friend.
SBF
Bill the Cat (of Bloom County) would call your variable voltage auto-transformer "very-ACK."
I'll show myself out... :)
As you suspected, CyperPower does not list this model on their website. They have a model that is 1350VA, but not 1325VA.
Interestingly, they do have a page for it that shows up if you run a web search against the model number. It shows a very different looking box than the one I got.
Makes me wonder if this is actually the 1350VA model relabeled, nobody would notice such a small difference in load. And if someone does notice, they are not going to complain about getting more than what was advertised.
It wouldn't be the first time BestBuy pulled those kinds of shenanigans to prevent price matching. I've got a Mitsubishi CRT rear projection high definition television (technically only an HD monitor) at home with a rather unusual model number (WS-A65) when compared with the rest of Mitsubishi's rear projection product lineup. Turns out that this was a "BestBuy exclusive" anti-pricematch product as well because it hardly differs from its sister models outside of the model number (it has a cheaper screen shield and one menu option removed; apart from that, it's functionality identical).
Funny Thing, the FSP UPSs sold at reasonable prices here are preconnected. Where as the apcs are disconnected while in Shipment.
Are you sure that round disc isn't just a "round-to-it" that they include free so we can get things done? I mean you could totally write that on the back as it's still blank. I actually found some Round-to-it's on sale once. I bought one for my parents to be funny. It didn't work out so well. I just hope you find it more comedic than they did...
Hi Bill, I was curious what your thoughts were at this time, about Cyberpower vs APC, e.g. should I go with Cyberpower over APC at this point. The Sine Wave isn't critical for me, but what is, seems to be long term use and reliable units from APC. They seem to only last so long before I've had the units start flipping between battery and AC when there are no power issues. I was just wondering if CyberPower is a bit more reliable as a standard UPS setup. Thanks great video, and good overview and details. Made me want to consider this unit, if you think it's still worth it.
The white APC RS/XS towers are infamous for developing this problem (and other faults besides -- I have one here that powers up when it wants because a voltage regulator poops out after a while). Their later products are better.
I'll buy whatever's cheaper on sale, what a client wants if they have a specific preference or what's available when I need one. I still have more APC than Cyberpower stuff, though only because that's what I usually bought back before I thought Cyberpower was a serious contender.
I think that the UPS should be fine with PBX phones. Analog phones go up to 110V when ringing. Most PBX phones operate at around 12-48 volts all the time.
Thanks for the great review. Lots of good information and well produced.
SOLD! I do dev work on my desktop pc and whenever it rains (Florida) my electricity gets interrupted, seems like daily. I've had to reinstall windows thrice now the m.2 ssd can't handle those electrical interruptions. Thank you sir.
It'd be better to solve the underlying problem rather than papering over it. It's very likely that you'll see the problem of corruption again, if the computer were to fail in another way.
I'd look to your SSD vendor, motherboard manufacturer and chipset provider for the latest software updates. And if you're overclocking, consider backing it down a bit.
@@uxwbill I've been building pc's since the 486 DX2, it's not the hardware or drivers ;-)
Fair enough, but you owe it to yourself to find out what it is. Unless of course you don't care, which is OK too.
Great video! Do you think that this UPS would be appropriate to power a natural gas tankless water heater during a power outage?
If your water heater is fully electric (with heating elements), no. This UPS wouldn't have anything like enough capacity for that. If it's just keeping a small logic circuit or gas ignition control alive...maybe.
The tankless water heater is natural gas so the only electricity needed would be to signal the heater when hot water is demanded.
@@notbuyingit2204 You should be fine with this UPS then.
Bryce..... You most likely have a Power Vented Unit. So besides the electronic circuit board and controls, you also have a fan inside the unit. The fan will be the highest load part of the unit. Your owners manual should tell you the hook up voltage and designed amperage/wattage draw! Do your calculations just as you would for a computer. Trust that is of help!
I wonder if that UPS has any issue with RCD-protected circuits. I had a Belkin 1200VA that worked well over the years apart from killing its batteries every 2-year cycle, i.e. always powered the PCs fine during outages despite its modified sinewave output and no issue with the RCD. I brought home a disused APC Smart UPS 1000VA from work, replaced its batteries and as soon as I plugged it in, the RCD tripped. When I reset the RCD, the UPS powers up and works fine. Surprisingly, it does not trip the RCD during power cuts, when its AVR handles low/high voltages, turning on/off its output, etc. However, any time I unplug the UPS from mains power, it will trip the RCD when I plug it back in.
As the UPS is in my bedroom, this RCD issue can be quite annoying during stormy weather. When the power cuts out even for a split-second, the UPS makes a 'thud' sound, even with its output switched off. In stormy weather, the UPS will randomly make thud sounds during the split-second power fluctuations, so I have to unplug the UPS to be able to sleep. Sure enough in morning when I plug it back in, the RCD trips and I need to set various clocks (microwave, cooker, etc.) around the house.
The Smart UPS (and many other APC products) leak some current to ground. I've never had a problem with any of them tripping a GFCI (our name for an RCD), not even when several were plugged into outlets downstream of a GFCI receptacle (and thus protected). The issue you're seeing likely has something to do with APC's ground/wiring fault indicator circuit.
Thanks for the review. This unit just popped up on sale again on Newegg but was wary if its "sinewave" was legit or not.
Hey, I hope you see this. I'm trying to replace the batteries in one of these exact models right now... I can't get the damn ground wire off the battery. Is there a trick to that bigger plastic plug, is it like a clip that I'm not noticing?
You may find that there is a small retaining latch on the connector that protrudes through the corresponding hole in the battery terminal. It may be difficult to see under the plastic shroud.
Hi Bill, I'm revisiting this video again, as I am curious if your unit is still working without issues? Mine has been working fine for the past almost year, if a little more, and then within the last couple weeks has developed strange issues. The first one is the Power LED, it began to flicker to eventually went out, and when this started happening, it would occasionally transfer to battery and back at unusual times. I finally decided to get a new UPS as I wasn't sure if this would be trustworthy long term. After getting the new on in place, i opened the front panel where the batteries are to see if maybe plugs had come loose. I unplugged the connector, and re seated it, and now the LCD is completely dead, but the Power LED is back to dim and flickering. I did do a test today letting a typical pedestal fan run off battery until battery expired, and that worked fine, however, with the apparent random power issues it's having internally, I still don't think I'll trust it on production setups.
The New unit, works fine bright indicators and display, quiet as a mouse no issues. It too is a CyberPower, but a 1500VA Simulated Sine Wave unit instead of pure. I've used most of my macs with simulated and they've worked fine. Anyway Just wanted to see if you had any suggestions beyond what I've tried. Sorry for the long comment, but I wanted to be as detailed as possible. Have a good evening.
Yes, it still works just fine. I think Cyberpower made at least a three year limited warranty on these. It'd be worth calling them up to ask. You'd probably get a whole new UPS, with new batteries.
@@uxwbill Thanks Bill, I will give them a call and find out. The two main reasons, I went ahead and spent the money to just replace it are these:
1. I'm unable to drive due to low vision, so shipping would be difficult for something this large. (if it was amazon, i could request UPS to come pick it up.)
2. From what I have read from other people's experience with cyberpower and warranty is they require you to pay shipping one way. If this is still true, then I wasn't sure ho much I'd actually save just buying a new one. I paid $189 for the model in this video which (mine is failing). The one I replaced it with yesterday which was model LX1500GU (1500VA 900w) was $159. Anyway, thanks again, I'll let you know what I find out. Oh, by the way, reason #3 I though simply buying the new unit was easier, was I live in Florida, so it's always good to have a UPS active. Warranties usually mean turn around times, so it means I would be without one. Then again, I can have this one repaired if they will now, and just use it as a backup, when it comes back.
I have another question- The power here frequently goes out, so I sometimes run my computer, monitor, TV, router, modem, and a couple of lights off of my 750 watt Harbor Freight power inverter. Everything operates fine, but the power supply in my computer makes a pretty loud buzzing noise when it's running off the inverter. The power supply is a Seasonic Prime Titanium 1000. Is this okay, or is it a problem? If it's a problem, I can get a sine wave inverter, but I'd rather not buy one unless I actually need it. Thank you in advance!
The noise is harmless. Some power supplies have components that resonate when driven by a square wave.
Thank you so much! I thought it was okay, but I wanted to check with you.
So what...youre saying the sine wav is only important when the UPS is running on its battery supply? So if im simply planning on shutting the computer down, when the power goes out then true sine isnt really a necessary feature for me? I am however concerned with getting good clean power when its plugged in to a regular ole wall receptacle, so a UPS that conditions/regulates/enhances the power, un preparation for the equipment im plugging into it. I have multiple power conditioners. Im guessing they do very litte. Thanks for your generosity in providing this video.
Some computer power supplies react poorly if the incoming power waveshape changes. A common sign of this is a sudden shutdown of the computer when the UPS switches over to its inverter and battery. Most computer power supplies don't care, and those that do are becoming less common.
You might want a UPS like this if what you want to stay running during a power outage isn't a computer load. Most AC electric motors run better (more quietly, cooler and at the proper speed) from a true sine wave.
This UPS, like almost any you can readily buy in a store, does perform some basic filtering of the incoming electrical supply. However, its inverter sits idle until a power problem of sufficient magnitude comes along.
There are UPSes made that operate their inverter continuously. Their only use for line power is keeping the battery charged. These are called "online" or "dual conversion" UPSes. They are much less common and quite expensive. These output a true sine wave, and have no switchover delay while the inverter starts up.
140V before the UPS intervenes seems very high. Would you expect some damage to sensitive equipment at this higher range?
If it's line interactive, it will correct the voltage on output.
Aside from "has APFC", another sign of possible compatibility issues with the modified sine wave would be if your computer PSU is so called "full range", i.e. claims to be capable of operating on 110-240V without requiring any switches.
To the best of my knowledge, autoranging power supplies imply the presence of APFC.
Yeah most likely that's it, the point is that info about "110-240" should be easier to spot on the box or on the PSU itself than any mention of APFC or lack therein.
24V battery connection - I wish it was more common for sinewave UPS units to use 12V, then they'd be more adaptable to use with a car during long power outages. Although this particular model appears not to have a fan so I guess it's not a good choice for long run times regardless.
As I recall, at least some APC SmartUPS units have adjustable switching thresholds for high/low input voltage. I think I tightened the thresholds on one that I use. It would be nice if this had the same adjustment.
21:30 (resistor across the data pins to signal high current USB support)
aaaaaahhhhhhh... that answers a question I've wondered about sometimes.
I've yet to see a UPS with a true sine wave output that runs from a 12V input. The few APC Smart UPS models that operate from twelve volts all have a stepped output waveform. There must be a reason why.
I didn't see any way to adjust the line voltage transfer points. Maybe it's possible from within the PowerPanel software. (I never use manufacturer provided software if I can avoid it.)
There is actually a fan within this UPS. It's not visible and probably doesn't do much as a result, but I have heard it running. Someone asked about its surge capability. There will be a video update on that. For now, let's just say I've been pretty impressed.
In the coming weeks or maybe sooner than that, I hope to be talking about something in a similar vein.
through the USB port is charging 5 volts 1 amp? in general, fast charging produces 5 volts 3 amps
"Fast charging" is a term with a very nebulous meaning in the world of USB. Anything could make that claim and it'd be true, as long as it offered up more power than standard USB.
I have a PC with a Seasonic X 850 watt PSU 80+ gold in it that clearly has APFC and at 355 watt load had no problem running on battery power on my APC XS-1000, no sudden shutdowns, no pure sine wave baloney needed. Glad I didn't spend the wasted money on marketing of pure sine wave being necessary for APFC PSU units.
It's a fact that some APFC equipped power supplies will shut down suddenly when the input waveform shape changes. That you have one which doesn't seem to care is great -- it's just not indicative of what all APFC power supplies will do.
Does it have enough surge capacity to start a freezer or refrigerator? How about a furnace? I'm wondering if by adding an external battery bank and maybe a cooling fan could it be used in an emergency to power those.
That's a very good question. Watch for an "addendum" video to follow this one at some point.
As demonstrated in the video, the UPS could and did run a furnace blower fan. However, its batteries clearly could only stand that kind of load for a very short period of time.
As to long term operation, I'd have my doubts. Even with fan cooling, the circuit board, inverter parts and output transformer aren't likely to be heavy enough for constant operation, even with significant capacity derating.
Thank you for a detailed review!
it's on sale for 189 at bestbuy now
uswbill - I appreciate your review. I have a question. I want to use this as an emergency power source for my internet DSL modem. Basically, i want to keep things all my battery computers alive during a disaster. The modem uses about 15W. Not very much. In my calculations, I would think that a 1500VA unit would keep this one device going for around 10 hours. Does this seem reasonable to you? Let me know if you see a flaw in my assumption. Tx
The only flaw is that of the inverter's efficiency. Especially under conditions of light load, it's not anything like 100% efficient. You should certainly get several hours of operation.
If you require an extended runtime, I'd check to see what the voltage and current requirements for your modem are, and look at _regulated_ DC-DC converters. Those would be a great deal more efficient.
I usually don't like to make these types of comments on people's videos but you're like, the authority on UPSes among my sub list, and, well, yeah.
My BackUPS ES 300 finally kicked the bucket and as of late I've been using an XS1000 as a power source albeit without a battery since the batteries kicked it long ago, and it still does an admirable job at just powering everything connected to it even if it can't keep things powered on through an outage. My question is...in all of your work with UPSes do you consider the XS lineup, namely the XS1000, to be worthy of throwing some money into? Been thinking of buying new batteries for it but if it's a crap UPS I don't want to really dump money into it.
A lot depends upon which generation of the "XS" series you have. If it's a white plastic tower with a row of LED lights above the power button, I'd get something else. Those have been the least reliable APC product I've ever used. *Every* one I've ever had or been around has failed and most of them went in the same way: after being without power for a while, they wouldn't go back to normal utility power for an extended period of time.
The black plastic ones (usually with an LCD display) are fine.
Looks like I have the fine one then. It's a black plastic one with the LCD. Pulled it out of the trash because it was dumped for being "defective", only issue was the batteries were completely pooched. Pulled them and it powers up and runs everything connected to it just fine, of course complaining that no battery is installed.
I'll probably grab a battery cartridge for it when the finances allow, then. Thanks again for your advice!
If you still have it, save all the wiring that came with the worn out batteries. Build your own battery pack from generic SLA bricks (12V, 7AH through 9AH). I usually buy the 8 or 9 AH bricks, mostly on the basis of price. I've had subpar results from SigmasTek and Universal Power Group (UPG) batteries. Pretty much everything else (especially MaxLife/MightyMax) SLA batteries have been very good to me.
You'll be able to get away for about $40 instead of closer to $100 with the genuine APC parts.
Shoot, I may have accidentally tossed it when I pulled it apart to figure out whether it was worth saving or not. If not I've definitely got the cabling stored away, just have to find it.
Worst case, you can remake all the wiring from the original battery pack. It's a 24 volt system. The original used 10 gauge wire. Crimp connections are fine. In fact, you could probably get away with just making the "U" connector that joins the two batteries into a series circuit.
how much did you pay for it at bestbuy
I have a question- Why is the capacity of most UPSes rated in volt amps? To me it seems like watt hours would be a lot less confusing to people. Thanks.
I think there's a good article about that somewhere online. A web search would turn it up. For a while, Dell sold UPSes under their own name (actually made by Eaton) that were rated in watts. I have one and might make a video about it sometime.
Thanks.
Va * amperage = watts
Thank ,nice review..going to add a 1100va 660w to my gass hot water heather.
Do so only with extreme caution. If ever there was a gas leak, the UPS could cause an explosion. Most are not designed for use around explosive gasses.
Fantastic video !!!
Thank You !!!
Should this be plugged into a surge protector?
No.
for some reason, the name Cyberpower reminded me of a horrible review of there Computer PSUs... IDK why, couldn't find any reviews or even if they made ATX PSUs.
Good review, thanks
Anyone know of a decent UPS that's NOT Made in China?
Some APC models are manufactured in the Philippines and India. It may be hard to know which country one is sourced from until you open the box...
Will this clean up power from a generator?
No. For that you want an "online" or "dual conversion" UPS.
@@uxwbill thanks
@@uxwbill do you know about powervar power conditioner?
Not specifically. From what I see, their product consists of a line filter, surge suppression and what they call an isolation transformer. ("What they call" isn't a dig at the company or product. Isolation can mean different things with regard to the power line. True isolation means the attached load is "floating" with no part of the secondary side of the transformer referenced to earth ground.)
As with other, similar products (some of which I have used), it's likely that theirs provides excellent protection from power line anomalies, but it cannot keep a load running when the power fails.
Good vid!!
I think uxwbill has a fetish for uninterruptible power supplies XD.
Good job
Hello, this is CoastTec! CoastTec is the only APC Certified single-phase Uninterruptible Power Supplies (UPS) service center in the United States. Our core business is focused on providing cost-effective solutions to service, manage, and maintain your UPS devices. Our clients range from home office users to Fortune 100 companies throughout North America. Would you be interested in reviewing one of our UPS units. We have never had influencers and this is something we would like to try. If you are interested let me know! Thank you so much for your time! You can check us our on Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn. (:
Yes, I'd be willing to review one of your UPS units. You can find contact information on the "about" page of my channel.
Sadly, no cat intervention in this video.
17:39 Now I know it would be loud but would that fan have enough air flow to keep a pc cool?
It has enough air flow to put a PC across the room. So I'll bet you can guess.
uxwbill yeah. Why am I feeling mischievous right now?
uxwbill nevermind. LTT already did that now.
Barely enough for a Pentium 4
Interesting under 300 EUR in Germany.
Wonders if uxwbill is monopolizing the families bandwidth with all these videos lol.
Uploads take place late at night.
uxwbill Probably a good thing. Thanks for the reply btw.
video on your power mac please lol
Wow, for a second i thought it said cyrix power
"Powered by Cyrix 5x86 technology"
AVR is nowhere near as good as a true, double conversion, ONLINE, UPS. Voltage would be STABLE.
It's not always the best technology that wins the war. I'm also not aware of any consumer oriented UPS that is of a double conversion design.
Tough toenails!
the whole casing looks very cheap. Mine is mostly made of metal and the batteries can be pulled out on a tray.
the mac pro is the same way as the powermac g5
Nasal boulders
Give me COMPOOTAAH! !!
Fantastic video!! Thanks!!