Great video! I have a 24 Transalp and have been looking at driving lights as the headlight is marginal. The DataDim feature looks great, thanks for all of the details.
Super cool. I wrote 3D cycle parts about their wire harness for aux lights. Their version only runs with high beams. I live in NYC and said to them I wanted a version that also ran with low beams, to help me avoid the dangerous potholes on city streets (can't drive around with high beams). They said they would help me out. But, I love your explanation. I have many skills but that level of electrical is beyond me, so thank you. My own Transalp is on order and not arriving until March/April. I may likely follow your program. Will keep you posted. Again, thank you!!!
Hi Andy, thanks. Potholes on portuguese roads are part of the norm too ;) 3D Cycle has a few nice plug and play solutions that make everything easier. If they help you out with the desired 2 intensities you'll have on your bike pretty much what I have on mine. The Transalp XL750 deserves a better/bigger headlights, and a good pair of aux lights make it work perfectly. Beware, the 3D Cycle harness is plugged on the 12v socket connector in order to get power to feed the aux lights. In case you want to run both 12v socket and aux lights you'll need a power splitter from that connector. They have that too. You'll love the bike. Cheers
You saved me a lot of troubleshooting. Thank you! I was trying to overcome the 0V high beam on my father’s NX500. He traded it in on a Transalp and I’m about to start the lighting project tomorrow night. The diode was what I figured my fix would be but you confirmed it. Good job, and no I don’t think you’re doing anything “silly” with the bike. I’m a service advisor at a Honda dealership and you taught me something today. Keep doing what you do my friend.
@@RichHood-r7u thank you. Please beware that if you only use the fog lights connector to get +ve signal and leave the -ve free, the BCU might turn the fog lights off as there is a "open circuit" on the -ve wire (green).It happened to mine at high revs only. To sort it out I've plugged a "dummy" 8w LED (T10 type canBUS LED which I put in a small black box to black it out) on the free connector on the other side of the bike and tucked it somewhere under the seat. It works, no errors. The error showing on the DTC menu was B26 - Fog Lights, which in that case was "open circuit on the green wire". Cheers
Amazing job. Although I have only added aux lights to come on with the function button with no high beam involvement, I can appreciate the lengths you have gone to to get a really good set up which is beyond my capabilities! Well done and well explained.
8:50 FYI, XL750 USA models do not have the fog light connector and wiring in the factory harness. The heated grip plug is there alone. Even though the meter display shows a fog light option 11:53 you will need to run your own wiring and switch for any added lighting system. Also, Honda brand fog lights for this model are not available in the U.S. ☹
@@bluevalkyrie2517 thank you. I didn't know that. Weird though. Don't understand why they make the bike different for the US market. I get the difference in regulations on power and noise, but not the wiring.
Amazing detailed video. Smart man. Thanks. If you use the short service connector when you get the dash unplugged check engine light you can immediately bypass the fault light fyi
Such a great video and thorough explanation. I was looking up how the datadim worked, because I don't want the dialdim. I plan to install it on my NC750X, so I'll be referencing your video to help my installation process. Thanks again for all of the information in the video.
Great illustration of the problem. I took Denali lights off 2016 Africa Twin and ran into the same problem you did. I was totally confused, and you cleared it up. Thanks so much for such a good video and explanation. I also had the dash Engine light on and it just went out on its own a couple of hours later. I ordered the trigger wizard from Denali because my wiring skills are not as neat as yours are. Thanks
Boa noite... Grande trabalho, excelente moto e faróis... Embora a Denali tenha um acessório que permite fazer isso e outras coisas. Esse método é fantástico. Parabéns
Wow, you did a lot of work here, a bit over my head but you may know the answer to my question. I moved a set of Cyclops Aurora lights from my KTM to my new Transalp. These lights have a halo which is on all the time, and a center flood that comes on with high beams by tapping a relay into the high beam wire. It should be easy but the center light doesn't work. I tapped into a blue wire that is one of 4 going through a grommet towards the headlight, under the dash screen module. I should have done more testing because this doesn't seem to trip the relay on. I took the connector before that apart and checked that line and it seems powered on both high and low. Don't know why it wouldn't activate my relay / lights, and I couldn't seem to find a wire that is energized by turning the high beams on..., but they do come on (the bike, not my center flood). Any ideas? The lights work fine when I power them directly and touch the relay line to positive . My bike is North American, maybe I was looking at a European wiring diagram, or maybe they are the same anyway.
Hi Stephen. Thanks. I'm not an expert but we can work it out together. Send me a private message thru Instagram instagram.com/toscanid?igsh=aWtxZ2gzOHBkYXRn I'll share my email and we'll find a solution.
Olá. As fichas das luzes não se ligam diretamente às fichas da mota. As fichas das luzes ligam-se ao arnês que tem as ligações à bateria, ao DataDim e relé. Minuto 21'40 mostra onde ligo a ficha à ficha da mota só com positivo para alimentar o relé, que por sua vez controla as luzes.
@@luispbdias pode haver, não encontrei no mercado online. Qualquer das formas há 2 razões para não ligar luzes auxiliares não originais (OEM) diretamente. A primeira pq a amperagem necessária para luzes funcionarem pode ser maior que o "output" dado pela mota e elas não funcionam; e segunda pq as luzes não OEM ligadas diretamente à bateria têm, dessa forma, mais estabilidade e garantem o brilho máximo. No caso deste modelo da Denali, as S4, como têm 2 intensidades têm que ser ligadas com o arnês e tudo mais, para tirar partido das dupla intensidade. Ligando-as diretamente só se pode utilizar 1 intensidade. A ficha das luzes tem 3 pinos ( +, +, -) e a ficha da mota tem 2 (+, -).
@@waldemarlata882 Thanks. I don't think so. The S4 pods have a 3 wire connector (-ve)(+ve low intensity)(+ve high intensity). The fog light free connector is a 2 wire connector (-ve)(+ve). Even if manage to adapt it and connect the S4 directly you'd only have 1 intensity available. Plus, I don't remember how many amps the S4 pulls but might be more than what that connection is able to provide. It's always preferable to connect aftermarket fog lights to the battery for that reason. Hope it helps. Cheers
@@waldemarlata882 I don't mention in the video but have mentioned on the comments here. I had to plug a 11w small LED that works as a dummy to the other free connector in order to close the circuit. Because I was only using the fog light positive pin to get signal, the ECU would shut the aux lights off at high revs, because there was no signal returning to the negative pin. Hope it makes sense.
Awesome video!!! I activated aux lights in the system menu. However, when I try ro switch on light, there is no power on the aux connector wire. Also, in the menu, turn on toggle blinks like something is wrong. Did you experience something like that?
@@BozicNebojsa Hi there. It does happen to mine sometimes, very randomly. Sometimes I ride for 15 min and it happens, sometimes I ride for a couple of hours and nothing happens. It seems to be triggered only at high revs. Weird. For some reason the aux lights turn off and the Fn menu (blue bar at the bottom of the screen) flashes when I try to switch them back on. When I turn the ignition off and on again, it works. The DTC error (you'd find it on the maintenance menu ) is "B26". That means 3 possible issues according to the Shop Manual: 1. A short on the blue/black wire (+ve); 2.open circuit on the green wire (-ve); 3. Faulty BCU. Because it just happens randomly and not that often to me I haven't tried to fix the issue permanently. I guess the problem is the #2 above: open circuit on the green wire, because I've only used the aux lights connector to get +ve signal and left the -ve free. Solution for that? Well, I think I'll have to either plug a resistor or a small LED (one of those with CANBUS resistors) to the other aux lights connector, so the BCU "thinks" there's actually a light connected there. Hope it makes sense.
Talvez, não me preocupei com isso pq tenho a certeza que as ligações estão bem feitas. O circuito está protegido com um fusível de 10Amp e como o sinal positivo vem do connector das luzes auxiliares, a BCU (Body Control Unit) desliga as luzes no caso de haver alguma anomalia. Numa conversa informal com um mecânico da Honda onde comprei a mota ele disse-me que se as ligações estiverem bem feitas não haverá motivo para afetar a garantia.
Eu gosto de trabalhar na mota e vou até onde acho que consigo ir sem por em risco a mota. Se comprares este produto da Denali e pedires ao concessionário onde compraste a mota para as montar com este setup, os mecânicos e eletricistas vão encontrar uma solução e ficas garantido.
Would you be able to confirm the wire connections of the DataDim module? In the absence of any reply from Denali about this, or actual technical information with the product itself (so I wouldn't need to ask), I think Red and Black are +ve and -ve respectively, White is the low and Blue the high power trigger, but what are the green and yellow? I presume they are to the lights themselves, but if yellow from the DD module connects to the lights' yellow to switch into low power mode, what is the green? I don't have the Denali wiring as I won't be using it, which means I cannot figure it out from there, so would appreciate it if someone can confirm.
Hi there, sorry for taking so long. Good question. I don't actually know exactly what all those wires do. I'd have to take everything apart and test them individually. Let me watch my video again and in case I come up with any conclusion I'll let you know. Hope you've found an answer already. Cheers
@@b.toscano4148 I have finally been able to extract that information from Denali. They have a nice diagram that shows the purpose of each connection, but they really don’t want to let anyone have it. Just buy their harness and do it all how they have decided the lights should work. Typical Denali again but I HATE that level of overt control they’re trying to exert. They make good products, but their attitude means I would avoid them if at all possible.
Do you mean the DialDim? Denali's DATAdim does not have any wires, unless they're inside the sealed housing. If you're talking about the Universal DialDim Trigger Harness, everything is clearly explained in the product photos and the Install Instructions. The part number is DNL.WHS.20500
@@alexsteele1856 Not sure what you mean as everything is indeed connected by wires. I eventually extracted the information from Denali. The green from the DataDim module is the +ve (power) to the light 'pods' and would actually connect to the pods red wire. So green connects to red, hmm, that's nice and obvious. 😕
@@UKenGB Again, you are saying DataDim but I think you mean DialDim. The DataDim does not have any wires at all, it is a module with a connector that plugs into their normal wiring harnesses. The DialDim's Universal Wiring Harness has a green wire that is supposed to be connected to the vehicle's horn (which enables the Strobe With Horn feature).
@@agprime Maybe you're right, if your only thinking about the glare reduction. However, those ones I have installed are not just for fog. They're auxiliary lights, and the main purpose is to be better seen when I run them on low intensity, and to better see in the dark when I run them on high intensity (full beam). Cheers
You are awesome. Great job explaining and showing install. Thanks for leaving failed attempts in video and capturing your thought process, it makes the video more real by showing your struggles.
Great video! I have a 24 Transalp and have been looking at driving lights as the headlight is marginal. The DataDim feature looks great, thanks for all of the details.
Super cool. I wrote 3D cycle parts about their wire harness for aux lights. Their version only runs with high beams. I live in NYC and said to them I wanted a version that also ran with low beams, to help me avoid the dangerous potholes on city streets (can't drive around with high beams). They said they would help me out. But, I love your explanation. I have many skills but that level of electrical is beyond me, so thank you. My own Transalp is on order and not arriving until March/April. I may likely follow your program. Will keep you posted. Again, thank you!!!
Hi Andy, thanks. Potholes on portuguese roads are part of the norm too ;)
3D Cycle has a few nice plug and play solutions that make everything easier. If they help you out with the desired 2 intensities you'll have on your bike pretty much what I have on mine. The Transalp XL750 deserves a better/bigger headlights, and a good pair of aux lights make it work perfectly. Beware, the 3D Cycle harness is plugged on the 12v socket connector in order to get power to feed the aux lights. In case you want to run both 12v socket and aux lights you'll need a power splitter from that connector. They have that too. You'll love the bike. Cheers
You saved me a lot of troubleshooting. Thank you! I was trying to overcome the 0V high beam on my father’s NX500. He traded it in on a Transalp and I’m about to start the lighting project tomorrow night. The diode was what I figured my fix would be but you confirmed it. Good job, and no I don’t think you’re doing anything “silly” with the bike. I’m a service advisor at a Honda dealership and you taught me something today. Keep doing what you do my friend.
@@RichHood-r7u thank you. Please beware that if you only use the fog lights connector to get +ve signal and leave the -ve free, the BCU might turn the fog lights off as there is a "open circuit" on the -ve wire (green).It happened to mine at high revs only. To sort it out I've plugged a "dummy" 8w LED (T10 type canBUS LED which I put in a small black box to black it out) on the free connector on the other side of the bike and tucked it somewhere under the seat. It works, no errors. The error showing on the DTC menu was B26 - Fog Lights, which in that case was "open circuit on the green wire". Cheers
Amazing job. Although I have only added aux lights to come on with the function button with no high beam involvement, I can appreciate the lengths you have gone to to get a really good set up which is beyond my capabilities! Well done and well explained.
8:50 FYI, XL750 USA models do not have the fog light connector and wiring in the factory harness. The heated grip plug is there alone. Even though the meter display shows a fog light option
11:53 you will need to run your own wiring and switch for any added lighting system. Also, Honda brand fog lights for this model are not available in the U.S. ☹
@@bluevalkyrie2517 thank you. I didn't know that. Weird though. Don't understand why they make the bike different for the US market. I get the difference in regulations on power and noise, but not the wiring.
@@b.toscano4148 Oh well, at least we get the quick shifter standard.😁
Amazing detailed video. Smart man. Thanks. If you use the short service connector when you get the dash unplugged check engine light you can immediately bypass the fault light fyi
@@kevinthailand2567 Thanks for the tip 👍🏻
Such a great video and thorough explanation. I was looking up how the datadim worked, because I don't want the dialdim. I plan to install it on my NC750X, so I'll be referencing your video to help my installation process. Thanks again for all of the information in the video.
@@JoseVargas814 Thanks. Please my reply to RichHood-r7u about the possible error if you leave the -ve wire open on the fog lights connector. Cheers
Great illustration of the problem. I took Denali lights off 2016 Africa Twin and ran into the same problem you did. I was totally confused, and you cleared it up. Thanks so much for such a good video and explanation. I also had the dash Engine light on and it just went out on its own a couple of hours later. I ordered the trigger wizard from Denali because my wiring skills are not as neat as yours are. Thanks
Boa noite...
Grande trabalho, excelente moto e faróis...
Embora a Denali tenha um acessório que permite fazer isso e outras coisas. Esse método é fantástico.
Parabéns
Qual é o acessório?
GREAT WORK👌
Wow, you did a lot of work here, a bit over my head but you may know the answer to my question. I moved a set of Cyclops Aurora lights from my KTM to my new Transalp. These lights have a halo which is on all the time, and a center flood that comes on with high beams by tapping a relay into the high beam wire. It should be easy but the center light doesn't work. I tapped into a blue wire that is one of 4 going through a grommet towards the headlight, under the dash screen module. I should have done more testing because this doesn't seem to trip the relay on. I took the connector before that apart and checked that line and it seems powered on both high and low. Don't know why it wouldn't activate my relay / lights, and I couldn't seem to find a wire that is energized by turning the high beams on..., but they do come on (the bike, not my center flood). Any ideas? The lights work fine when I power them directly and touch the relay line to positive . My bike is North American, maybe I was looking at a European wiring diagram, or maybe they are the same anyway.
Hi Stephen. Thanks. I'm not an expert but we can work it out together. Send me a private message thru Instagram instagram.com/toscanid?igsh=aWtxZ2gzOHBkYXRn
I'll share my email and we'll find a solution.
Thanks for the informative video. Help me understand please. The headlights blue wire. Default is no power till high beam switch is activated right?
@@matt06sg That's it. Thank you.
Ola. So nao percebi como foi ligado as fichas das luzes as fichas da moto. Tem alguma foto?
Olá. As fichas das luzes não se ligam diretamente às fichas da mota. As fichas das luzes ligam-se ao arnês que tem as ligações à bateria, ao DataDim e relé. Minuto 21'40 mostra onde ligo a ficha à ficha da mota só com positivo para alimentar o relé, que por sua vez controla as luzes.
@@b.toscano4148mas não há um adaptador que ligue directamente as fichas dos denali, as fichas de origem da moto? Obg
@@luispbdias pode haver, não encontrei no mercado online. Qualquer das formas há 2 razões para não ligar luzes auxiliares não originais (OEM) diretamente. A primeira pq a amperagem necessária para luzes funcionarem pode ser maior que o "output" dado pela mota e elas não funcionam; e segunda pq as luzes não OEM ligadas diretamente à bateria têm, dessa forma, mais estabilidade e garantem o brilho máximo. No caso deste modelo da Denali, as S4, como têm 2 intensidades têm que ser ligadas com o arnês e tudo mais, para tirar partido das dupla intensidade. Ligando-as diretamente só se pode utilizar 1 intensidade. A ficha das luzes tem 3 pinos ( +, +, -) e a ficha da mota tem 2 (+, -).
Man, you are so cool! Very good job! Thanks a lot!
Great video. Can I connect S4 fog light direct to fog light free connectors without connect to the battery and additionals accesories?
@@waldemarlata882 Thanks. I don't think so. The S4 pods have a 3 wire connector (-ve)(+ve low intensity)(+ve high intensity). The fog light free connector is a 2 wire connector (-ve)(+ve). Even if manage to adapt it and connect the S4 directly you'd only have 1 intensity available. Plus, I don't remember how many amps the S4 pulls but might be more than what that connection is able to provide. It's always preferable to connect aftermarket fog lights to the battery for that reason. Hope it helps. Cheers
@@waldemarlata882 I don't mention in the video but have mentioned on the comments here. I had to plug a 11w small LED that works as a dummy to the other free connector in order to close the circuit. Because I was only using the fog light positive pin to get signal, the ECU would shut the aux lights off at high revs, because there was no signal returning to the negative pin. Hope it makes sense.
Thank you for explanation. Now I know what to do. Cheers
Awesome video!!! I activated aux lights in the system menu. However, when I try ro switch on light, there is no power on the aux connector wire. Also, in the menu, turn on toggle blinks like something is wrong. Did you experience something like that?
@@BozicNebojsa Hi there. It does happen to mine sometimes, very randomly. Sometimes I ride for 15 min and it happens, sometimes I ride for a couple of hours and nothing happens. It seems to be triggered only at high revs. Weird. For some reason the aux lights turn off and the Fn menu (blue bar at the bottom of the screen) flashes when I try to switch them back on. When I turn the ignition off and on again, it works. The DTC error (you'd find it on the maintenance menu ) is "B26". That means 3 possible issues according to the Shop Manual: 1. A short on the blue/black wire (+ve); 2.open circuit on the green wire (-ve); 3. Faulty BCU. Because it just happens randomly and not that often to me I haven't tried to fix the issue permanently. I guess the problem is the #2 above: open circuit on the green wire, because I've only used the aux lights connector to get +ve signal and left the -ve free. Solution for that? Well, I think I'll have to either plug a resistor or a small LED (one of those with CANBUS resistors) to the other aux lights connector, so the BCU "thinks" there's actually a light connected there. Hope it makes sense.
@b.toacano4148 How do you read DTC errors?
Yes, I agree it is probably #2.
I am also thinking about putting some small LED, just to close circuit.
@@BozicNebojsa Go to Main Menu by holding the button on the main switch ">>" for 2 secs > [Maintenance] > [DTC].
Nice. Did not know that!
Btw, for now, I have an external switch for lights and I used "live" wore from the rear USBc charger connector.
Isto dá void à garantia? 😅 Curtia um setup destes na minha transalp, muito bom
Talvez, não me preocupei com isso pq tenho a certeza que as ligações estão bem feitas. O circuito está protegido com um fusível de 10Amp e como o sinal positivo vem do connector das luzes auxiliares, a BCU (Body Control Unit) desliga as luzes no caso de haver alguma anomalia. Numa conversa informal com um mecânico da Honda onde comprei a mota ele disse-me que se as ligações estiverem bem feitas não haverá motivo para afetar a garantia.
Eu gosto de trabalhar na mota e vou até onde acho que consigo ir sem por em risco a mota. Se comprares este produto da Denali e pedires ao concessionário onde compraste a mota para as montar com este setup, os mecânicos e eletricistas vão encontrar uma solução e ficas garantido.
Hey Mr B, ..how did I not know that you had an XL750??
@@rossG1221 let's go for a ride next time you come down here 😎
what tank crush guard are you used?
Hi there. It's the CROSSPRO Crash bars and Skid Plate. Look it up 👍🏻
Would you be able to confirm the wire connections of the DataDim module? In the absence of any reply from Denali about this, or actual technical information with the product itself (so I wouldn't need to ask), I think Red and Black are +ve and -ve respectively, White is the low and Blue the high power trigger, but what are the green and yellow?
I presume they are to the lights themselves, but if yellow from the DD module connects to the lights' yellow to switch into low power mode, what is the green?
I don't have the Denali wiring as I won't be using it, which means I cannot figure it out from there, so would appreciate it if someone can confirm.
Hi there, sorry for taking so long. Good question. I don't actually know exactly what all those wires do. I'd have to take everything apart and test them individually. Let me watch my video again and in case I come up with any conclusion I'll let you know. Hope you've found an answer already. Cheers
@@b.toscano4148 I have finally been able to extract that information from Denali. They have a nice diagram that shows the purpose of each connection, but they really don’t want to let anyone have it. Just buy their harness and do it all how they have decided the lights should work. Typical Denali again but I HATE that level of overt control they’re trying to exert. They make good products, but their attitude means I would avoid them if at all possible.
Do you mean the DialDim? Denali's DATAdim does not have any wires, unless they're inside the sealed housing. If you're talking about the Universal DialDim Trigger Harness, everything is clearly explained in the product photos and the Install Instructions. The part number is DNL.WHS.20500
@@alexsteele1856 Not sure what you mean as everything is indeed connected by wires.
I eventually extracted the information from Denali. The green from the DataDim module is the +ve (power) to the light 'pods' and would actually connect to the pods red wire. So green connects to red, hmm, that's nice and obvious. 😕
@@UKenGB Again, you are saying DataDim but I think you mean DialDim. The DataDim does not have any wires at all, it is a module with a connector that plugs into their normal wiring harnesses. The DialDim's Universal Wiring Harness has a green wire that is supposed to be connected to the vehicle's horn (which enables the Strobe With Horn feature).
Fog lights should be yellow or ambar.
@@agprime Maybe you're right, if your only thinking about the glare reduction. However, those ones I have installed are not just for fog. They're auxiliary lights, and the main purpose is to be better seen when I run them on low intensity, and to better see in the dark when I run them on high intensity (full beam). Cheers
@@b.toscano4148 Make sense, I run dual color, Low is yellow and hi is White.
You are awesome. Great job explaining and showing install. Thanks for leaving failed attempts in video and capturing your thought process, it makes the video more real by showing your struggles.
@@b.toscano4148 Great.