Appreciate it dude! It was a loooot of work to condense it down to 30min (wtf). I really hope to battle some of these misconceptions on the airsoft field!
This was a great video! really cleared up lots of questions I’ve had over the time I’ve been playing. I will be changing my bb weight for the future 🫡 also the idea of running the same weight for pistols 👀 wow great stuff Mr. Phoenix 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Great summary of this toppic. I'll use that for beginners. My biggest argument for heavy BBs is the lower hopup curve, so you dont overhopp players at ~55m that much. But I find many AEGs, especilly with longer barrel are not capable to get enough air compression behind the BBs and are loosing energy even within the barrel. So be carfeull with your AEGs, but for HPA and GBB, go heavy!
Yes, I agree! With HPA, go as heavy as you can (and also afford!). With AEG, everyone has to find their own sweet spot. In my opinion, I like the stable flight path better and am okay with an ever so slightly longer time to target than, for example, a 0.32g.
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft if you manage to finde a good volume ratio on cylinder and barrel you could go 0.36g with AEGs but therefore you'd need a 2.5:1 or better 3:1 volume ration which is hard at built with an aeg
amazing summary, the tape for the inner barrel its a great mod to get accuracy you could also use O-rings if you have the right size, for anyone that doesnt want or doesnt have much money to upgrade their new replica or you just starting and wanna use some heavy bbs. i recommend checking the quantum friction pro hopup rubber they are around $10usd they come with a nice nub too to replace the little tube one that comes stock and you should be able to hop no problems, super consistent also they work great on hpa systems. and for secondaries **if you wanna hop high weight bbs** the Tkey from maple leaf is very good but i would only use it if you hop heavy bbs anything under 0.3 will hop to the moon even at cero hop lol (by my own testing on a hpa tapped hicapa shoothing shooting around 280fps). so with around $20usd, tape and the right bbs you can get amazing result
Been using .36 in all my builds forever now. They are very consistant with minor variation in spread and have never failed me in range as well. Ill never go below that weight ever again with that being sed
Awesome vid - very similar to one I seen recently somewhere else. My only complaint would be the joule drop with your own tests. I would tune my gun to shoot equal joules with whatever ammo I actually want to use (if the field allowed). Then your test results would have shown even more bias towards heavy ammo if .43 bbs was chrono'ing at 1.49J instead of 1.3J. I know you mentioned something about it but just calling it out
I actually filmed that part but decided to cut it as I was already reaching the 30min mark and kind of addressed it. The entire "shooting" test was also filmed with an HPA system and adjusted joules. It took forever and you can see the setup laying on the table. Maybe that would be something in the future for channel supporters!
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft ahh gotcha. I was thinking HPA would definite the easiest. I’m guessing the results were better but not that drastic even when adjusting?
yes thats correct. It was horribly difficult to hit with the 0.20g on 60m a torso sized target. With the 0.43g not a slight problem. I think that says it all.
Really great video. Thanks man! :D But one point is missing I think: Feeding problems with heavier BBs because of to light springs in the magazines. If your using the best but expensive PTS EPM Mags it should be no problem to play 0,40g BBs. But most S-AEG magazines have problems with heavier BBs. It would have been good if this topic had also been addressed in the video - maybe with some tipps to solve that problem ;)
Hey man thank you! Actually I had some feeding problems with my PTS Emags. Probably because they are really new and the springs are way toooo hard. I got some double feeds etc. You can see in the video. Later I switched to a super cheap Begadi Mag and it worked perfectly!
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft Haha yeah that might be a little problem. But with enough streching/loading/unloading the PTS should work fine ^^ But most of the time the feeding problem comes from cheap magazines in combination with heavier BBs. :) Hope my PTS Mags works well with GBB HPA & in the future MTW :D
Wie aufwendig willst du ein Video machen? Phoenix so JA! Mega Video, guter Schnitt und der Drehaufwand dafür. Holly Shit. Hoffentlich wird das Video halbwegs gut geklickt, sodass sich das wenigstens ein bisschen lohnt. Zum Glück wachen die meisten Händler in Deutschland mit dem Thema HopUp mal langsam auf und verbauen direkt die besseren Buckings als früher. Schöne Entwicklung was das Thema angeht. Vor allem wenn ich zurück denke an die Zeit davor so ab 2009. Da war man froh wenn man halbwegs das Ding out of the Box spielen konnte. Grüße Tom
Hi Tom, danke für dein nettes Kommentar! Es freut mich, dass dir das Video gefallen hat! Du hast vollkommen recht, meine erste AEG war absolut unspielbar auf einem normalen Spielfeld. Schon alleine vom Chrono-Ergebnis (war glaub ich 1.6-1.7J). Für einen Anfänger der nix weiß einfach total schlecht und uneinladend. Da bin ich wirklich auch froh, dass "pre-upgraded" mehr und mehr Standart wird und die Hersteller langsam nachziehen. Das hilft nicht nur uns sondern ganz besonders neuen Leuten die in das Hobby einsteigen wollen. Hoffentlich hilft das Video ein wenig mit diesen komischen Halbwissensdiskussionen aufzuräumen!
Richtig gutes Video! Endlich zeigt es mal jemand mit Fakten 💪🏻👌🏻😂 Von KJW bekommst du übrigens auch 0.32gr bio tracer. Schwerere hab ich leider noch nicht gefunden
In Italy and Japan the Joule limit is 0,99, in those cases ligher bbs are still an option to evalutate imho,I live and play in Italy and nowadays i'm using 0,20gr in cqb and arenas(when the tipical target is below 30m) and 0,28gr in normal skirmish situations.
I agree for indoors if your engagement distance is around 30m. Just choose something cheap that does the job. For outdoor I think you will find some improvement with a 0.32g for example. Just try it out and let me know!
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft i tried also 0,30 and 0,32 but only 3 meters gained in range, usally, in skirmish wood the line of sight is below 45m,at the other hand i feel too slow the bbs in moving targets up to 25 m, considering also the full auto option @1 J in italy, the difference in bush piercing is almost none. However I agree for german laws, in semi auto mode @ 1,14J i think the better option is 0,36gr.
I agree! Its hard to acknowledge all the different rules and laws. You have to find your best, what does the best for your setup and typical engagement distances!
So this is all relevant to AEG's. What about GBB where the gas pressure in the barrel is affected by BB weight? Joule creep is more evident? Would love to see what you have done here but using a GBB rifle.
Well, I talk about it and yes you are right - joule creep is more evident. Everything else is the same. I did the hole test with my HPA (you can see it on the table during the outdoor test) but I decided to cut that part. It was extremely hard to hit the 60m target with 0.20g BBs. I only managed to do it like 3 times. In total I went through like 2000 BBs. Including of course other testing etc. The heavy ones were hit all within 5 shots of each other
30minutes of yapping generalized it would be like AEG and Manual: under .20 --- just dont use them in anything that shoots over 0.5J it will literaly turn you gun into shotgun as bb can explode in barrel .20 - .25 --- to 1.6J .25 - .28 --- 1.2 - 2J .28 - .32 --- 1.6 - 2.5J over .32 --- over 2J To maximalize distance and power: Never forget to use correct Hop rubber and nozzle lenght (for me personally its mapple leaf as it has longer collar so it solves potentional leakages) In case of longer barrels use full cylinder Make sure the piston head, cylinder and cylinder head are "air tight" and on compression have as least leaks as possible ideally none Make sure you have as least leaks on nozzle as possible - in this case you can replace stock nozzle for one with single or double o-ring gasket (single is enough) Make sure hop-up chamber is correctly seated on gearbox and chamber or gearbox are not jumping while shooting Make sure barrel is not - dirty, damaged or oily Get 6.01/02 barrel - it minimalize leakage around bb also boosts precision bit but you also need to clean it more often and you can have jams while using cheap bbs GBB/HPA: -as some others said go as heavy as you can afford .30 - .32 is pretty ok
Thanks for the detailed tips-there’s definitely some good advice here, but I’d caution that much of what you’ve shared is more advanced and not really aimed at airsoft beginners, which is the main audience for this video. Beginners would likely struggle with centering the gearbox shell or making the nozzle airtight without proper experience, but those are great suggestions for a future upgrade guide! As for BB weights, I actually recommend going heavier than your ranges, depending on the replica and Joules. And I also said in the video, “go as heavy as you can afford.” I stand by that! Heavier BBs are consistently better. Appreciate your input, and I’ll keep some of your points in mind for a future advanced guide. Thanks for watching!
Is halt auch mal wichtig. Finde im nachhinein schade, dass ich kein weißen Kittel anhabe haha. Es wird soooooo viel blödsinn im Airsoft geredet - es ist immer wieder erschreckend. Einfach mal wichtig mit ein paar Themen aufzuräumen, dass wir uns auf den Spielspaß konzentrieren können.
I’m only using HPA so all my .9j to 1.5j is with .40g and 1.7j and up is .48g. I figured it cheaper eliminating a player with 1 or 2 shots than sending a bunch through the air and still missing. Also lighter bbs burn the skin as heavier bbs bruise mark will fade in 2 days.
Hey Phoenix. Id like your input. Irish player here, legally stuck to 1J shot on a 0.2g bb. I've been running a sniper main kit recently, which includes a VSR on a Wolverine E HPA kit. My issue is my VSR will get the same "distance" as a normal AEG . However, I know the positive I have is I'm "typically" more accurate and a LOT more quite - meaning i KNOW I have to make that first shot count! Would you still be recommending a 0.32g BB, or would you go higher weight knowing im losing a little distance, but with the positive of a more stable shot?
I would go higher. I would sacrifice the little more time to target and "lower" output for a more stable and accurate shot. I believe you run a sniper, somehow hidden etc. Here you don't need the extra ms, as you try to surprise the enemy player anyways!
brother its depend on your fps just like my replica fps in 0.20g is 540-550 joules 2.5 Plus when i used 0.43g the fps drop from 540-550 into 430-445 but the joules is 3.2-3.4 the result is diferent yours because your fps is low brother can you make video about fps 500 plus with 0.20g-0.36g and 0.43g ? thanks advance!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for your comment and for sharing your setup-it’s really interesting! You’re absolutely right that FPS and Joules play a huge role, especially with higher-power replicas like yours. At 540-550 FPS with 0.20g BBs (around 2.5 Joules) and 430-445 FPS with 0.43g BBs (3.2-3.4 Joules), you’re operating in the range of bolt-action sniper rifles, which are typically allowed on fields between 2-3 Joules (with minimum engagement distances of 25 meters or more). That’s a sweet setup for long-range precision! My results in this video focused on replicas within the more common limits of 1.0-1.5 Joules (typically 350-400 FPS with 0.20g), which are standard for most AEGs and gas replicas at the fields I play at. Since my FPS is lower, the Joule creep with heavier BBs like 0.36g or 0.43g is less dramatic than what you’ve observed in your higher-power setup. I love your suggestion to make a video exploring higher-power replicas, especially testing FPS ranges like 500+ with 0.20g, 0.36g, and 0.43g BBs. It’s a fascinating topic, and I know many players-especially snipers-would be interested in seeing how those setups perform! While I don’t typically run 500+ FPS builds, I’ll definitely consider adding this to my content plan in the future. Thanks for the great suggestion and for taking the time to comment, brother! Appreciate your input and support.
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft my mws and mtr16 gold range is 80-100 meters i used 4uad hopup bucking gbb , edgi 6.01mm for mws and mtr16 g is Maple leaf 6.01mm , with modifed nuzzle thats why i can increased my fps in the philippines fps legal up to 700 plus fps specially open fps with high joules 10 plus .
In my "1.99J" Kythera HPA I use 0.32g for one reason...price. Begadi has great "house brand" BBs, but unfortunately only up to 0.32g. I use the same 0.32g BBs in my 1.2J Machine Gun as well and have to agree, they are PERFECT for 1.2J! Still have a package of 0.4g BBs I do not use in my Sniper (too light) so I might use up those and check if my Kythera improves....even tough it is already really good.
@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft was testing few days ago, but was quite dissapointed about range in general. The 0.4g unfortunately did not feed well with my magazines. But also the 0.32g were only going 45m (actually measured), idk what I do wrong
you said ''in most of europe we measure with 0.20g BBs'' is simply false. In Slovenia, Croatia, Czech Republic, Poland we measure in Joules and the actual weight you are using, so at chrono we say which BBs we are using and the chrono is measured with that, the limit is 1.5J for assault rifles, 2.3J for DMRs and 3.3J for snipers and nobody actually cares about FPS since FPS is purely speed of BB which doesnt determine how much it'll hurt when hit, Joules determine POWER.
my point in the video was about practices in most of Europe, not everywhere. While there’s definitely a trend toward using Joules and actual BB weight (which I mentioned in the video), some fields and regions-especially in places like Germany-still use FPS with 0.20g BBs as the baseline for chronographing. Ultimately, Joules are the gold standard, and it’s great to hear that your fields prioritize that.
@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft all good, i turned stable volume off and heard everything! Was good video and informative, thank you for taking the time to make it. 😁
Was a bit confusing about FPS vs. JOULE part. I wouldn't say thats a joule creep when you get higher energy with heavier BB at the same speed. You getting higher energy because of the HEAVIER mass of the bb, not because of joule creep. Nothing with air volume to do, since the formula for kinetic energy=(mass*velocity in square)/2.
Yes but also no. Of course you get more energy bc of the heavier mass bb but also bc hpa and gbb systems have more air at their disposals if the dwell for hpa is quite long.
Let me unlock this a lil' bit. So aegs and spring guns have fixed air volume, GBBR and HPA can be adjusted (more ore less in GBB wise, depends on the rocket valve, HPA has dwell setting). If you want to more FPS both mechanical (spring power) and HPA-GBBR (gas pressure) can be adjusted, IF the air volume is correct for the barrel (mostly no, and that why joule creep happens). Reversing four your statement, the higher energy happens with the same gun setup but heavier BB, because the full amount of air aren't used in the lighter BB, simply because it reach faster the speed, and left the barrel, where is still unused pressure.
The weight you should use is dependent on your hop and your barrell/cylinder ratio just saying heavier better is wrong,your guns cylinder volume ratio maybe great for 0.28g but too little for 0.30g so the 0.28g would be a better choice
@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft it's not as simple as its better, it's dependent on how each gun is set up rather than a constant for every gun, my m4 is full stroke,full cylinder 363mm barrell so 0.30g/0.32g no probs, my ak 380mm 3/4 cylinder so it's better on a 0.28g, cylinder/barrell ratio and the air volume matter, just saying the heavier the better is not right If your test involves very simply using 0.28g then 0.30g in the same gun it's wrong,that just proves that 0.30g is better for THAT gun, not all If your gun is correctly or undervolumed you probably won't have the air volume to push heavier mass so lighter bbs, if you are overvolumed you have more air volume to push the extra mass, it's basic physics You want to test it properly then get yourself a variety if barrell lengths, different ported cylinders,different combinations of short strokes and different weight bbs and then test those various combinations out, using g the same gun,spring and hop up for all
well yes. But I also talk about it in the video, that this will be different for everyone and their exact setup. Of course I cant test all that, it would be boring as hell. Everyone has to find their own sweetspot but I encourage to try out heavier and test for themselves how it goes.
Lets address the issues in your video: Release date 9/11/2024, and you're explaining what fps is... No, in Europe we don't measure joules with 0,20, that might be where you're from, but definately not "in Europe". Any field worth playing at measures with your BB weight and changes the chrono settings. It's not a "trend", it's what is done. No idea how you could get so wrong explaining what energy, speed and weight are... BB's don't "absorb" anything. First law of Newton, a mass remains at a constant velocity unless a force acted upon. To move a BB, you apply energy. To move a heavier mass at the same speed as another object of lower mass, you need more energy. Period. If you want to move two BBs, one as 0,20g and one as 0,30g, you need more energy on the 0,30g to move it at the same speed as the first one. It has nothing to do with hpa, gbbr, absorbing, or nonesense. The point, which none of you "influencers" ever say, is that PAIN (i.e. the point of all this, for safety) cares about the ENERGY a mass transfers to our skin (hopefully never an eye or tooth), it doesn't care about the speed at which it hits, so the logical thing to do is to put limits on ENERGY, which si what the body cares about for damage. Joule creep is something ENTIRELY DIFFERENT to what unit to measure for safety, and again, it has nothing to do with what method creates the energy (hpa, propane or spring), but wether how long that air/gas is capable of applying force on the BB, and it has to do with a ratio of barrel length, cylinder volume and how long the BB is in the barrel (which is a speed, and as said before, keeping energy constant will produce a lower speed in higher-massed BBs, hence it's effect in this ratio). The fact hpa and gbbr tends to more joule creep is a product of design, not of fundamental physics, all you need to do is put a higher volumne cylinder and a long barrel in an aeg and you get the exact same effect, hence being hpa/gbbr not being a key factor. Gah, doesn't fail: just shameful self promotion. Cutting the video now. What bad quality content.
Thanks for your detailed comment. I appreciate the effort you put into writing it, but I think there are a few things worth clarifying-both about my video and your critique: "Release date 9/11/2024, and you're explaining what FPS is..." Yes, I explained FPS for a simple reason: Not everyone watching my video is an airsoft veteran. Many people in the community, especially beginners, may not fully understand the difference between FPS and Joules or why it matters. Airsoft is for everyone, not just experts, and my goal is to make these concepts accessible to all players. Explaining basics isn’t a flaw; it’s called being inclusive. "In Europe, we don't measure Joules with 0.20g, that might be where you're from, but definitely not 'in Europe.'" Actually, you’re incorrect here. While it’s true that many fields now chrono using the player’s chosen BB weight, not all fields across Europe have adopted this as standard practice. Many still default to 0.20g BBs for chrono due to its long history as the baseline measurement in the airsoft community. This isn’t just “where I’m from,”. I played in multiple countries and have seen it everywhere. However, there’s been a growing shift toward measuring Joules with the actual BB weight being used, which is something I explicitly referred to in the video as a trend. It seems like you might have missed that part. "BBs don't 'absorb' anything." I’m glad you brought this up because I think there’s some confusion here. The term “absorb” was used figuratively to describe how heavier BBs hold onto more of the energy imparted to them. It wasn’t meant to imply that BBs literally absorb energy like a sponge. I also clearly explained that heavier BBs require more energy to reach the same FPS as lighter BBs, which is consistent with your point. It seems like we’re actually in agreement here-you just didn’t like the phrasing and are nitpicking over physics terms. "Pain cares about the energy a mass transfers to our skin, not the speed at which it hits..." Yes, and that’s exactly why I discussed Joules as the more important measure of safety. In fact, I even addressed that heavier BBs are inherently more dangerous than lighter ones in the part of the video you clearly didn’t watch. "Joule creep is something ENTIRELY DIFFERENT to what unit to measure for safety..." I’m well aware of what Joule creep is, and I explained it in the context of how different systems (HPA vs. AEG) are affected. You seem to have taken issue with my explanation, but your own description of Joule creep (barrel length, cylinder volume, and BB time in the barrel) matches what I discussed in the video. The reason I emphasized HPA and GBB setups is because they’re the most common systems where Joule creep becomes significant. Yes, an AEG can experience Joule creep with the right setup, but that’s not as common in stock AEGs, which is why I focused on the systems most relevant to the average viewer. Also, you accuse me of not understanding "fundamental physics," but my explanation was based on exactly the same principles you’re describing. It seems like you’re nitpicking semantics rather than addressing any actual inaccuracy in my explanation. "Shameful self-promotion. Cutting the video now. What bad quality content." I always find it amusing when someone comments on a video they didn’t watch in full. Critiquing the video while admitting you “cut it” partway through doesn’t lend much credibility to your argument. It also shows you missed some key points I addressed later, such as the nuanced discussion of safety, and the advantages of heavier BBs. As for your comment about “shameful self-promotion,” I proudly work with sponsors that I believe add value to my audience. Sponsorships are what allow me to create detailed, research-driven content like this, and I ensure they’re relevant to the topic at hand. If you find that shameful, perhaps this isn’t the channel for you and I highly suggest you film you own video. While I appreciate critical feedback when it’s constructive, your comment comes across as more condescending than helpful. You raised some valid points, but they were either already addressed in the video or misrepresented what I said. Next time, watch the full video before jumping to conclusions. You might find that your concerns are already covered. Thanks for engaging, and I hope you’ll consider watching the video fully to gain a better understanding of the topics discussed.
@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft i just wrote "scandal" to get a higher ranking for your vid, i played paintball for years and i know more weight is stabil longer flight
Instructions unclear now my gun is completely disassembled, and I don't know where this spring goes.
Hahahaha it was very clear 😂🤝🏼
Great video man! This took a lot of work! Definitely great information to share with people!
Appreciate it dude! It was a loooot of work to condense it down to 30min (wtf). I really hope to battle some of these misconceptions on the airsoft field!
@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft I can imagine ha!! It flowed very well, I definitely learned a few things!
amazing! that couldn't have gone better then!
This was a great video! really cleared up lots of questions I’ve had over the time I’ve been playing. I will be changing my bb weight for the future 🫡 also the idea of running the same weight for pistols 👀 wow great stuff Mr. Phoenix 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you! Glad I could clear things up. I actually learned a lot myself and said stuff before that we’re not 100% correct.
Here in the UK its capped at 1 Joule at 328fps maximum. So it gets really difficult and tricky to stay under it or right on the requirements.
Great summary of this toppic. I'll use that for beginners.
My biggest argument for heavy BBs is the lower hopup curve, so you dont overhopp players at ~55m that much.
But I find many AEGs, especilly with longer barrel are not capable to get enough air compression behind the BBs and are loosing energy even within the barrel. So be carfeull with your AEGs, but for HPA and GBB, go heavy!
Yes, I agree! With HPA, go as heavy as you can (and also afford!). With AEG, everyone has to find their own sweet spot. In my opinion, I like the stable flight path better and am okay with an ever so slightly longer time to target than, for example, a 0.32g.
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft if you manage to finde a good volume ratio on cylinder and barrel you could go 0.36g with AEGs but therefore you'd need a 2.5:1 or better 3:1 volume ration which is hard at built with an aeg
@@HawkEyeAS or just put full cylinder in all aegs
Amazing work, great research ❤
Thank you so much 😀it’s really in the details and it’s so fun to dive down deep rabbit holes 😂
amazing summary, the tape for the inner barrel its a great mod to get accuracy you could also use O-rings if you have the right size,
for anyone that doesnt want or doesnt have much money to upgrade their new replica or you just starting and wanna use some heavy bbs.
i recommend checking the quantum friction pro hopup rubber they are around $10usd they come with a nice nub too to replace the little tube one that comes stock and you should be able to hop no problems, super consistent also they work great on hpa systems.
and for secondaries **if you wanna hop high weight bbs** the Tkey from maple leaf is very good but i would only use it if you hop heavy bbs anything under 0.3 will hop to the moon even at cero hop lol (by my own testing on a hpa tapped hicapa shoothing shooting around 280fps).
so with around $20usd, tape and the right bbs you can get amazing result
yes!!!! thanks for the tips! great comment that shows for little money you get so much further!!! (in all cases haha)
Been using .36 in all my builds forever now. They are very consistant with minor variation in spread and have never failed me in range as well. Ill never go below that weight ever again with that being sed
Bb spread is do to innerbarrel play inside the outerbarrel secure that innerbarrel and you will see a big difference in shot grouping
Depends on field regs
What joules are you playing with though? In the UK aeg can only go to 1.14 joules.
I agree. For Aegs that’s really the sweet spot on my opinion. Hpa can handle more. I agree with the inner barrel as said in the video ᵕ̈
@@AcausalMonolith 400 fps is our limit for assault rifle class
Awesome vid - very similar to one I seen recently somewhere else. My only complaint would be the joule drop with your own tests. I would tune my gun to shoot equal joules with whatever ammo I actually want to use (if the field allowed). Then your test results would have shown even more bias towards heavy ammo if .43 bbs was chrono'ing at 1.49J instead of 1.3J. I know you mentioned something about it but just calling it out
I actually filmed that part but decided to cut it as I was already reaching the 30min mark and kind of addressed it. The entire "shooting" test was also filmed with an HPA system and adjusted joules. It took forever and you can see the setup laying on the table. Maybe that would be something in the future for channel supporters!
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft ahh gotcha. I was thinking HPA would definite the easiest. I’m guessing the results were better but not that drastic even when adjusting?
yes thats correct. It was horribly difficult to hit with the 0.20g on 60m a torso sized target. With the 0.43g not a slight problem. I think that says it all.
Really great video. Thanks man! :D
But one point is missing I think: Feeding problems with heavier BBs because of to light springs in the magazines.
If your using the best but expensive PTS EPM Mags it should be no problem to play 0,40g BBs. But most S-AEG magazines have problems with heavier BBs.
It would have been good if this topic had also been addressed in the video - maybe with some tipps to solve that problem ;)
Hey man thank you! Actually I had some feeding problems with my PTS Emags. Probably because they are really new and the springs are way toooo hard. I got some double feeds etc. You can see in the video. Later I switched to a super cheap Begadi Mag and it worked perfectly!
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft Haha yeah that might be a little problem. But with enough streching/loading/unloading the PTS should work fine ^^ But most of the time the feeding problem comes from cheap magazines in combination with heavier BBs. :) Hope my PTS Mags works well with GBB HPA & in the future MTW :D
Thank you for wide explanations 💪
You’re welcome!
Amazing video again! 🤙🏼❤️
Thank you! Glad you liked it!!
Great video Felix :D
Me who uses .20's in tournaments
well for indoor cqb or speedqb it might be fine :) but maybe in that close ranges .25 might actually be faster!
Valiant!!!!!
Can someone tell me what is the name of camo of the guy on 6:31?
@@gabrijelurkan2449 concamo👍
@@gabrijelurkan2449 I think it is concamo green
And it’s crazy how good it works. Shortly after he hid in plain sight and I couldn’t see him at all 😂
I use heavier BBs to inflict maximum pain. 0.46g in my sniper rifle and 0.30g in my AEG.
Wie aufwendig willst du ein Video machen? Phoenix so JA!
Mega Video, guter Schnitt und der Drehaufwand dafür. Holly Shit.
Hoffentlich wird das Video halbwegs gut geklickt, sodass sich das wenigstens ein bisschen lohnt.
Zum Glück wachen die meisten Händler in Deutschland mit dem Thema HopUp mal langsam auf und verbauen direkt die besseren Buckings als früher. Schöne Entwicklung was das Thema angeht. Vor allem wenn ich zurück denke an die Zeit davor so ab 2009. Da war man froh wenn man halbwegs das Ding out of the Box spielen konnte.
Grüße Tom
Hi Tom, danke für dein nettes Kommentar! Es freut mich, dass dir das Video gefallen hat!
Du hast vollkommen recht, meine erste AEG war absolut unspielbar auf einem normalen Spielfeld. Schon alleine vom Chrono-Ergebnis (war glaub ich 1.6-1.7J). Für einen Anfänger der nix weiß einfach total schlecht und uneinladend. Da bin ich wirklich auch froh, dass "pre-upgraded" mehr und mehr Standart wird und die Hersteller langsam nachziehen. Das hilft nicht nur uns sondern ganz besonders neuen Leuten die in das Hobby einsteigen wollen.
Hoffentlich hilft das Video ein wenig mit diesen komischen Halbwissensdiskussionen aufzuräumen!
Richtig gutes Video!
Endlich zeigt es mal jemand mit Fakten 💪🏻👌🏻😂
Von KJW bekommst du übrigens auch 0.32gr bio tracer. Schwerere hab ich leider noch nicht gefunden
Danke dir 😅 hatte bis jetzt immer 0.28 glaub ich. Obwohl für die lightsim vll auch 0.3 bin mir grad nicht mehr sicher
@ just nice to know 😉 bekommst die .32 bei begadi
@@krampusde9122schau ich mir mal an. Hatte glaub ich mal welche von geoff
In Italy and Japan the Joule limit is 0,99, in those cases ligher bbs are still an option to evalutate imho,I live and play in Italy and nowadays i'm using 0,20gr in cqb and arenas(when the tipical target is below 30m) and 0,28gr in normal skirmish situations.
I agree for indoors if your engagement distance is around 30m. Just choose something cheap that does the job. For outdoor I think you will find some improvement with a 0.32g for example. Just try it out and let me know!
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft i tried also 0,30 and 0,32 but only 3 meters gained in range, usally, in skirmish wood the line of sight is below 45m,at the other hand i feel too slow the bbs in moving targets up to 25 m, considering also the full auto option @1 J in italy, the difference in bush piercing is almost none. However I agree for german laws, in semi auto mode @ 1,14J i think the better option is 0,36gr.
I agree! Its hard to acknowledge all the different rules and laws. You have to find your best, what does the best for your setup and typical engagement distances!
So this is all relevant to AEG's. What about GBB where the gas pressure in the barrel is affected by BB weight? Joule creep is more evident? Would love to see what you have done here but using a GBB rifle.
Well, I talk about it and yes you are right - joule creep is more evident. Everything else is the same. I did the hole test with my HPA (you can see it on the table during the outdoor test) but I decided to cut that part. It was extremely hard to hit the 60m target with 0.20g BBs. I only managed to do it like 3 times. In total I went through like 2000 BBs. Including of course other testing etc. The heavy ones were hit all within 5 shots of each other
30minutes of yapping
generalized it would be like
AEG and Manual:
under .20 --- just dont use them in anything that shoots over 0.5J it will literaly turn you gun into shotgun as bb can explode in barrel
.20 - .25 --- to 1.6J
.25 - .28 --- 1.2 - 2J
.28 - .32 --- 1.6 - 2.5J
over .32 --- over 2J
To maximalize distance and power:
Never forget to use correct Hop rubber and nozzle lenght (for me personally its mapple leaf as it has longer collar so it solves potentional leakages)
In case of longer barrels use full cylinder
Make sure the piston head, cylinder and cylinder head are "air tight" and on compression have as least leaks as possible ideally none
Make sure you have as least leaks on nozzle as possible - in this case you can replace stock nozzle for one with single or double o-ring gasket (single is enough)
Make sure hop-up chamber is correctly seated on gearbox and chamber or gearbox are not jumping while shooting
Make sure barrel is not - dirty, damaged or oily
Get 6.01/02 barrel - it minimalize leakage around bb also boosts precision bit but you also need to clean it more often and you can have jams while using cheap bbs
GBB/HPA:
-as some others said go as heavy as you can afford
.30 - .32 is pretty ok
Thanks for the detailed tips-there’s definitely some good advice here, but I’d caution that much of what you’ve shared is more advanced and not really aimed at airsoft beginners, which is the main audience for this video. Beginners would likely struggle with centering the gearbox shell or making the nozzle airtight without proper experience, but those are great suggestions for a future upgrade guide!
As for BB weights, I actually recommend going heavier than your ranges, depending on the replica and Joules. And I also said in the video, “go as heavy as you can afford.” I stand by that! Heavier BBs are consistently better.
Appreciate your input, and I’ll keep some of your points in mind for a future advanced guide. Thanks for watching!
Sehr schön gemacht! Ich finde es immer top, wenn solche Themen wissenschaftlich angegangen werden. ✌
Is halt auch mal wichtig. Finde im nachhinein schade, dass ich kein weißen Kittel anhabe haha. Es wird soooooo viel blödsinn im Airsoft geredet - es ist immer wieder erschreckend. Einfach mal wichtig mit ein paar Themen aufzuräumen, dass wir uns auf den Spielspaß konzentrieren können.
Great video and really good information
Thank you and I hope it helped
I'm gonna enjoy this✅
🤝🏼
I’m only using HPA so all my .9j to 1.5j is with .40g and 1.7j and up is .48g. I figured it cheaper eliminating a player with 1 or 2 shots than sending a bunch through the air and still missing. Also lighter bbs burn the skin as heavier bbs bruise mark will fade in 2 days.
I love one taps! Its an artform by itself :) Im not so sure about the light bbs buring the skin ?!?!
Hey Phoenix. Id like your input. Irish player here, legally stuck to 1J shot on a 0.2g bb. I've been running a sniper main kit recently, which includes a VSR on a Wolverine E HPA kit. My issue is my VSR will get the same "distance" as a normal AEG . However, I know the positive I have is I'm "typically" more accurate and a LOT more quite - meaning i KNOW I have to make that first shot count! Would you still be recommending a 0.32g BB, or would you go higher weight knowing im losing a little distance, but with the positive of a more stable shot?
I would go higher. I would sacrifice the little more time to target and "lower" output for a more stable and accurate shot. I believe you run a sniper, somehow hidden etc. Here you don't need the extra ms, as you try to surprise the enemy player anyways!
Lighter bb's are mostly for pistols and low fps cqb units
corrrrrectooooooo
brother its depend on your fps just like my replica fps in 0.20g is 540-550 joules 2.5 Plus when i used 0.43g the fps drop from 540-550 into 430-445 but the joules is 3.2-3.4 the result is diferent yours because your fps is low brother can you make video about fps 500 plus with 0.20g-0.36g and 0.43g ?
thanks advance!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for your comment and for sharing your setup-it’s really interesting! You’re absolutely right that FPS and Joules play a huge role, especially with higher-power replicas like yours. At 540-550 FPS with 0.20g BBs (around 2.5 Joules) and 430-445 FPS with 0.43g BBs (3.2-3.4 Joules), you’re operating in the range of bolt-action sniper rifles, which are typically allowed on fields between 2-3 Joules (with minimum engagement distances of 25 meters or more). That’s a sweet setup for long-range precision!
My results in this video focused on replicas within the more common limits of 1.0-1.5 Joules (typically 350-400 FPS with 0.20g), which are standard for most AEGs and gas replicas at the fields I play at. Since my FPS is lower, the Joule creep with heavier BBs like 0.36g or 0.43g is less dramatic than what you’ve observed in your higher-power setup.
I love your suggestion to make a video exploring higher-power replicas, especially testing FPS ranges like 500+ with 0.20g, 0.36g, and 0.43g BBs. It’s a fascinating topic, and I know many players-especially snipers-would be interested in seeing how those setups perform! While I don’t typically run 500+ FPS builds, I’ll definitely consider adding this to my content plan in the future.
Thanks for the great suggestion and for taking the time to comment, brother! Appreciate your input and support.
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft my mws and mtr16 gold range is 80-100 meters i used 4uad hopup bucking gbb , edgi 6.01mm for mws and mtr16 g is Maple leaf 6.01mm , with modifed nuzzle thats why i can increased my fps in the philippines fps legal up to 700 plus fps specially open fps with high joules 10 plus .
So what ya all recommend on AEG with 1.6 J and 410 FPS (I play outside/inside CQB)
for outside with 1.6j AEG I would use 0.36g BBS :)
THANKS!
You're welcome! 🫡
In my "1.99J" Kythera HPA I use 0.32g for one reason...price.
Begadi has great "house brand" BBs, but unfortunately only up to 0.32g.
I use the same 0.32g BBs in my 1.2J Machine Gun as well and have to agree, they are PERFECT for 1.2J!
Still have a package of 0.4g BBs I do not use in my Sniper (too light) so I might use up those and check if my Kythera improves....even tough it is already really good.
You should try it out and let me know how it went!
@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft was testing few days ago, but was quite dissapointed about range in general. The 0.4g unfortunately did not feed well with my magazines.
But also the 0.32g were only going 45m (actually measured), idk what I do wrong
you said ''in most of europe we measure with 0.20g BBs'' is simply false. In Slovenia, Croatia, Czech Republic, Poland we measure in Joules and the actual weight you are using, so at chrono we say which BBs we are using and the chrono is measured with that, the limit is 1.5J for assault rifles, 2.3J for DMRs and 3.3J for snipers and nobody actually cares about FPS since FPS is purely speed of BB which doesnt determine how much it'll hurt when hit, Joules determine POWER.
my point in the video was about practices in most of Europe, not everywhere. While there’s definitely a trend toward using Joules and actual BB weight (which I mentioned in the video), some fields and regions-especially in places like Germany-still use FPS with 0.20g BBs as the baseline for chronographing.
Ultimately, Joules are the gold standard, and it’s great to hear that your fields prioritize that.
I personally like my .28 n .30’s
Try heavier! The difference between .28 and .36 is crazy
Für mich nutze ich die 0.32g und manchmal die 0.33g von gg und funktioniert sehr gut
Ja fűr mich geht’s auch ab 0.3g richtig los
Can't hear anything?
Edit: Turned off stable volume under advance setting and fixed.
Leaving here so others can find the fix
Mhhhh sorry. Tried to have everything in order. Worked for me
@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft all good, i turned stable volume off and heard everything! Was good video and informative, thank you for taking the time to make it. 😁
.25 are the cheapest and seem to do a decent job.
we know why they are the cheapest. Please try something heavier... just once ;)
@@PhoenixFeatherAirsoftI’ve been using heavier ones, but now returned to .25 up to DMR class and .43 for sniper.
hahaha no way you use 0.25g in a DMR :)
Was a bit confusing about FPS vs. JOULE part. I wouldn't say thats a joule creep when you get higher energy with heavier BB at the same speed. You getting higher energy because of the HEAVIER mass of the bb, not because of joule creep. Nothing with air volume to do, since the formula for kinetic energy=(mass*velocity in square)/2.
Yes but also no. Of course you get more energy bc of the heavier mass bb but also bc hpa and gbb systems have more air at their disposals if the dwell for hpa is quite long.
Let me unlock this a lil' bit. So aegs and spring guns have fixed air volume, GBBR and HPA can be adjusted (more ore less in GBB wise, depends on the rocket valve, HPA has dwell setting). If you want to more FPS both mechanical (spring power) and HPA-GBBR (gas pressure) can be adjusted, IF the air volume is correct for the barrel (mostly no, and that why joule creep happens).
Reversing four your statement, the higher energy happens with the same gun setup but heavier BB, because the full amount of air aren't used in the lighter BB, simply because it reach faster the speed, and left the barrel, where is still unused pressure.
Algorithmus
The weight you should use is dependent on your hop and your barrell/cylinder ratio just saying heavier better is wrong,your guns cylinder volume ratio maybe great for 0.28g but too little for 0.30g so the 0.28g would be a better choice
No way a 0.28g is better ~ sorry. I just did the test. Try for yourself
@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft it's not as simple as its better, it's dependent on how each gun is set up rather than a constant for every gun, my m4 is full stroke,full cylinder 363mm barrell so 0.30g/0.32g no probs, my ak 380mm 3/4 cylinder so it's better on a 0.28g, cylinder/barrell ratio and the air volume matter, just saying the heavier the better is not right
If your test involves very simply using 0.28g then 0.30g in the same gun it's wrong,that just proves that 0.30g is better for THAT gun, not all
If your gun is correctly or undervolumed you probably won't have the air volume to push heavier mass so lighter bbs, if you are overvolumed you have more air volume to push the extra mass, it's basic physics
You want to test it properly then get yourself a variety if barrell lengths, different ported cylinders,different combinations of short strokes and different weight bbs and then test those various combinations out, using g the same gun,spring and hop up for all
well yes. But I also talk about it in the video, that this will be different for everyone and their exact setup. Of course I cant test all that, it would be boring as hell. Everyone has to find their own sweetspot but I encourage to try out heavier and test for themselves how it goes.
Sehr schönes Video, du solltest es nochmal in Deutsch Hochladen für leute deren english nicht so gut ist
Ja vielleicht macht es Sinn deutsche Untertitel zu machen. Leider Mega viel Arbeit
Lets address the issues in your video:
Release date 9/11/2024, and you're explaining what fps is...
No, in Europe we don't measure joules with 0,20, that might be where you're from, but definately not "in Europe". Any field worth playing at measures with your BB weight and changes the chrono settings. It's not a "trend", it's what is done.
No idea how you could get so wrong explaining what energy, speed and weight are... BB's don't "absorb" anything. First law of Newton, a mass remains at a constant velocity unless a force acted upon. To move a BB, you apply energy. To move a heavier mass at the same speed as another object of lower mass, you need more energy. Period. If you want to move two BBs, one as 0,20g and one as 0,30g, you need more energy on the 0,30g to move it at the same speed as the first one. It has nothing to do with hpa, gbbr, absorbing, or nonesense. The point, which none of you "influencers" ever say, is that PAIN (i.e. the point of all this, for safety) cares about the ENERGY a mass transfers to our skin (hopefully never an eye or tooth), it doesn't care about the speed at which it hits, so the logical thing to do is to put limits on ENERGY, which si what the body cares about for damage.
Joule creep is something ENTIRELY DIFFERENT to what unit to measure for safety, and again, it has nothing to do with what method creates the energy (hpa, propane or spring), but wether how long that air/gas is capable of applying force on the BB, and it has to do with a ratio of barrel length, cylinder volume and how long the BB is in the barrel (which is a speed, and as said before, keeping energy constant will produce a lower speed in higher-massed BBs, hence it's effect in this ratio). The fact hpa and gbbr tends to more joule creep is a product of design, not of fundamental physics, all you need to do is put a higher volumne cylinder and a long barrel in an aeg and you get the exact same effect, hence being hpa/gbbr not being a key factor.
Gah, doesn't fail: just shameful self promotion. Cutting the video now. What bad quality content.
Thanks for your detailed comment. I appreciate the effort you put into writing it, but I think there are a few things worth clarifying-both about my video and your critique:
"Release date 9/11/2024, and you're explaining what FPS is..."
Yes, I explained FPS for a simple reason: Not everyone watching my video is an airsoft veteran. Many people in the community, especially beginners, may not fully understand the difference between FPS and Joules or why it matters. Airsoft is for everyone, not just experts, and my goal is to make these concepts accessible to all players. Explaining basics isn’t a flaw; it’s called being inclusive.
"In Europe, we don't measure Joules with 0.20g, that might be where you're from, but definitely not 'in Europe.'"
Actually, you’re incorrect here. While it’s true that many fields now chrono using the player’s chosen BB weight, not all fields across Europe have adopted this as standard practice. Many still default to 0.20g BBs for chrono due to its long history as the baseline measurement in the airsoft community. This isn’t just “where I’m from,”. I played in multiple countries and have seen it everywhere. However, there’s been a growing shift toward measuring Joules with the actual BB weight being used, which is something I explicitly referred to in the video as a trend. It seems like you might have missed that part.
"BBs don't 'absorb' anything."
I’m glad you brought this up because I think there’s some confusion here. The term “absorb” was used figuratively to describe how heavier BBs hold onto more of the energy imparted to them. It wasn’t meant to imply that BBs literally absorb energy like a sponge. I also clearly explained that heavier BBs require more energy to reach the same FPS as lighter BBs, which is consistent with your point. It seems like we’re actually in agreement here-you just didn’t like the phrasing and are nitpicking over physics terms.
"Pain cares about the energy a mass transfers to our skin, not the speed at which it hits..."
Yes, and that’s exactly why I discussed Joules as the more important measure of safety. In fact, I even addressed that heavier BBs are inherently more dangerous than lighter ones in the part of the video you clearly didn’t watch.
"Joule creep is something ENTIRELY DIFFERENT to what unit to measure for safety..."
I’m well aware of what Joule creep is, and I explained it in the context of how different systems (HPA vs. AEG) are affected. You seem to have taken issue with my explanation, but your own description of Joule creep (barrel length, cylinder volume, and BB time in the barrel) matches what I discussed in the video. The reason I emphasized HPA and GBB setups is because they’re the most common systems where Joule creep becomes significant. Yes, an AEG can experience Joule creep with the right setup, but that’s not as common in stock AEGs, which is why I focused on the systems most relevant to the average viewer.
Also, you accuse me of not understanding "fundamental physics," but my explanation was based on exactly the same principles you’re describing. It seems like you’re nitpicking semantics rather than addressing any actual inaccuracy in my explanation.
"Shameful self-promotion. Cutting the video now. What bad quality content."
I always find it amusing when someone comments on a video they didn’t watch in full. Critiquing the video while admitting you “cut it” partway through doesn’t lend much credibility to your argument. It also shows you missed some key points I addressed later, such as the nuanced discussion of safety, and the advantages of heavier BBs.
As for your comment about “shameful self-promotion,” I proudly work with sponsors that I believe add value to my audience. Sponsorships are what allow me to create detailed, research-driven content like this, and I ensure they’re relevant to the topic at hand. If you find that shameful, perhaps this isn’t the channel for you and I highly suggest you film you own video.
While I appreciate critical feedback when it’s constructive, your comment comes across as more condescending than helpful. You raised some valid points, but they were either already addressed in the video or misrepresented what I said. Next time, watch the full video before jumping to conclusions. You might find that your concerns are already covered.
Thanks for engaging, and I hope you’ll consider watching the video fully to gain a better understanding of the topics discussed.
SKANDAL ! ! !
you may think this is very obvious. For many people it is not! You cannot believe the amount of 0.25g BB packs Ill see on an outdoor field
@PhoenixFeatherAirsoft i just wrote "scandal" to get a higher ranking for your vid, i played paintball for years and i know more weight is stabil longer flight