FINALLY. I couldn't tell from other videos if the dimple is supposed to stop at the top of the footer or arc over it (every single person installed it a different way). I'm so glad this clears it up.
Any suggestions for a less traumatic install than nailing it? The nails are grenadine the cement in the wall and falling out. We spent FOREVER fixing all the cracks prior to tarring and installing delta wall. The nails are doing serious damage all over again. What do we do?
Depends entirely on your drainage. Tar and membrane for hydrostatic, or Tar and dimple with good drainage. None of that weeping tile crap. Put in perforated PVC, cover with like 6" or 12" of 3/4 crush rock, then lay down landscape fabric before back filling.
Hi there. I was wondering if there is an alternative to hilti gunning the dimple board to the foundation as I'd rather not risk any cracks. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm redoing my perimeter drains this week! Thanks in advance
@@anotherday3781 I ended up Hilti gunning the dimple board into the concrete. It was easy I was just worried they wouldn't go through for how old the concrete foundation is.
DELTA®-MS meets building codes in Canada and the US when installed as a stand alone product. Some installers do apply spray asphaltic dampproofing (“tar”) first, then place the DELTA®-MS as a “belt and suspenders” system, but it is not required by building codes and DELTA®-MS is a very well-performing system either way.
@@coselladorken In Canada this varies with different municipalities so be sure to check with your local building department to see if they accept Delta-MS as stand alone. I will typically roll/spray tar on first because it's a small inexpensive extra step that gives us builders as well as homeowners that extra reassurance should your waterproofing fail
Hi, I am about to install this product on my foundation. My front wall in my basement is a full 8 foot wall and the sides slope off to a walkout basement that will be ground level. My question is I have a 4 foot frost wall on the back and a part of the sides, that will be back filled all the way up on the outside and inside. Does this have to be installed on the outside of that wall or just the 2 side walls and the front that will be back filled outside and be basement inside
In general, building code requires application to the exterior around all occupied space. As an example, this means if you had an attached garage, the wall shared with the interior basement space would require treatment on the exterior side. If your short walls will have soil against them on the outside and there is basement to the inside, all below grade exterior areas would require DELTA®-MS to be applied. Please check your local building code for specific requirements www.dorken.com/media/docs/products/Installation-Guides/Installation-Instructions_DELTA-MS.pdf
Hi, Thank you for the question. Service life expectancy is >25 years. Full product Technical Data is available here: www.dorken.com/media/docs/products/Technical-Data/Technical-Data_DELTA-MS.pdf
This product is difficult and risky to install on foundations older than 10 years. Concrete becomes very hard and brittle over time. Only decent way to install on old foundation is to drill pilot holes with an sds drill. But you will need an adaptor for the sds drill to fit small enough bits that will allow a snug fit with the delta nails and fasteners. Currently installing now. Bit of a pain for older foundations. Update: I dont recommend this product for anyone unless you can install with screws and hammer drill pilot holes. Nails in concrete is down right idiotic. This method has caused thousands in damage to my foundation.
I bought this membrane that I must put on an old solage .. I would like to insulate it at the same time outside with rigid polystyrene .. the membrane should go over the polystyrene or below ... someone one could answer me ???
If you're waterproofing the outside of your foundation, you should put DELTA-MS first. Detailing is easiest and most effective this way. Please call our tech support line if you need more details +1 (888) 433-5824
Tearing from the ground grabbing The dimple wrap and dragging it downwards as the backfill compresses I'll bet you it's fairly common especially on higher foundations.
We can understand why you might think that but it is not really the case. Should any water penetrate through that point or any other, the air gap fully relieves it of any hydrostatic pressure. Gravity will cause the water to flow down and away. Even if there was a crack in the foundation right where incidental water penetrated, there is nothing to push the water through. The Air Gap Technology allows gravity to be the dominant force, draining the water safely. Also, glue won’t hold high-density polyethylene (HDPE) against the forces from backfilling soil.
if that is your concern, just add a little sealant around the nail after after nailing, or you can justadd some sealant first, then nail it. it, and then seal after you nail it.
How much should I expect to pay to have this installed, including materials and labour, not including any digging or back-filling? I have about 50' of foundation to cover.
Not including excavation. Probably between 1500 and 2500usd. With excavation And backfill your around 6-7k for the whole job. This would be for a 1000sqft house. But best if you tar foundation first. Did ours ourself. With taring walls and excavation it ran us about 4k
@@KevinPolin all it takes is some settling backfill. The dimples make an excellent grip for the ground to get hold of the membrane and pull it downward. Better off with a Xypex additive
DELTA®-MS is approved for stand-alone applications in Canada and the US: - CCMC Approval (Dampproofing): bit.ly/2YU36tF - CCMC Approval (Drainage): bit.ly/2sw9I5j - ICC Approval: bit.ly/2PWyAv8 One can certainly apply a waterproof membrane first, should one choose. In areas with high water tables, our Installation Instructions advise it: bit.ly/38IxLyu . If a waterproofing membrane is applied first, DELTA®-MS acts as an excellent protection board, something required by waterproofing manufacturers.
And exactly how is moisture blocked from the concrete absorbing it? Tar - thick black tar, then roll heavy black plastic over it. Finish with high density below grade FOMC board. Schedule 40 pvc pipe to a sump drain with surface access and backfill at least 50% gravel.
dimple just sheds water, it doesn't block moisture. I used tar and blueskin membrane on my house because it was built in a high hydrostatic area. Hasn't leaked since. The cracks I grinded out and filled with leak stopper cement.
forget about the thick black tar...we're in 2019 goddammit ! :) Membrane such as Resisto or Blueskin, add proper primer before....then the dimple membrane.
Year 2020: membranes are plastic and tar . I build icf basements and the premade plastic/tar membranes work great on styrofoam. On concrete block and poured concrete walls below grade lots of tar is the only way to fill all those pores. A thick sheet of plastic pushed into the tar and topped with foam board is great. I’ve used dimple rolls , but backfilling with gravel reduces hydrostatic pressure against the wall - one is sure to have problems using dimple rolls and dirt as the dirt will fill the dimples and voila : water problems . Anyone in this age that also does not install a footer drain is setting up property owners to have water problems . I wouldn’t buy new construction without all thee above, but there are clueless buyers and worst : negligent builders .
Glenn Berquist Footer drain is a must, i don't think it's even worth mentionning...you're right about he gravel. Instead of just about a foot above the drain you could backfill completely with 3/4 clear. No hydrostatic pressure buildup possible ! But you need to get rid of all that extra dirt ! here in montreal, add 92$/h for the 12-wheeler plus around 100$ for each load to dump at a accreditated eco-center. that's some money most customers won't understand the true value of it
It's sad how many times Delta had to answer your questions here. This is 100% a wall damp and waterproofing system it is not a drainage system. They likely sell one though. Both are required by code in the OBC 9.13 (Ontario, Canada) the majority of the time. The worry of nails... my god, free drainage and the nails don't penetrate into the house - ffs. Most of you should hire a competent builder and stop doing DIY on the most expensive thing you own.
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FINALLY. I couldn't tell from other videos if the dimple is supposed to stop at the top of the footer or arc over it (every single person installed it a different way). I'm so glad this clears it up.
What happens if you install it the other way the hole towards the wall?
Any suggestions for a less traumatic install than nailing it? The nails are grenadine the cement in the wall and falling out. We spent FOREVER fixing all the cracks prior to tarring and installing delta wall. The nails are doing serious damage all over again. What do we do?
For hollow block foundations, is it safe to use wall nails or shall i used some kind of adhesive instead?
Depends entirely on your drainage. Tar and membrane for hydrostatic, or Tar and dimple with good drainage. None of that weeping tile crap. Put in perforated PVC, cover with like 6" or 12" of 3/4 crush rock, then lay down landscape fabric before back filling.
Hi there. I was wondering if there is an alternative to hilti gunning the dimple board to the foundation as I'd rather not risk any cracks. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm redoing my perimeter drains this week! Thanks in advance
Hi, I’m trying to find solutions for the same situation. Were you able to attach the dimple board to the hollow block?
@@anotherday3781 I ended up Hilti gunning the dimple board into the concrete. It was easy I was just worried they wouldn't go through for how old the concrete foundation is.
Yes, hammer drill the holes than hammer in the delta fastener nails.
Hi. Should you also put a tar on the foundation first and after install the Delta MS. Thanks.
DELTA®-MS meets building codes in Canada and the US when installed as a stand alone product. Some installers do apply spray asphaltic dampproofing (“tar”) first, then place the DELTA®-MS as a “belt and suspenders” system, but it is not required by building codes and DELTA®-MS is a very well-performing system either way.
@@coselladorken In Canada this varies with different municipalities so be sure to check with your local building department to see if they accept Delta-MS as stand alone. I will typically roll/spray tar on first because it's a small inexpensive extra step that gives us builders as well as homeowners that extra reassurance should your waterproofing fail
Hi, I am about to install this product on my foundation. My front wall in my basement is a full 8 foot wall and the sides slope off to a walkout basement that will be ground level. My question is I have a 4 foot frost wall on the back and a part of the sides, that will be back filled all the way up on the outside and inside. Does this have to be installed on the outside of that wall or just the 2 side walls and the front that will be back filled outside and be basement inside
In general, building code requires application to the exterior around all occupied space. As an example, this means if you had an attached garage, the wall shared with the interior basement space would require treatment on the exterior side. If your short walls will have soil against them on the outside and there is basement to the inside, all below grade exterior areas would require DELTA®-MS to be applied. Please check your local building code for specific requirements www.dorken.com/media/docs/products/Installation-Guides/Installation-Instructions_DELTA-MS.pdf
Regarding my reputation, how long is many years?
Hi,
Thank you for the question.
Service life expectancy is >25 years.
Full product Technical Data is available here:
www.dorken.com/media/docs/products/Technical-Data/Technical-Data_DELTA-MS.pdf
This product is difficult and risky to install on foundations older than 10 years. Concrete becomes very hard and brittle over time. Only decent way to install on old foundation is to drill pilot holes with an sds drill. But you will need an adaptor for the sds drill to fit small enough bits that will allow a snug fit with the delta nails and fasteners. Currently installing now. Bit of a pain for older foundations.
Update: I dont recommend this product for anyone unless you can install with screws and hammer drill pilot holes. Nails in concrete is down right idiotic. This method has caused thousands in damage to my foundation.
I bought this membrane that I must put on an old solage .. I would like to insulate it at the same time outside with rigid polystyrene .. the membrane should go over the polystyrene or below ... someone one could answer me ???
If you're waterproofing the outside of your foundation, you should put DELTA-MS first. Detailing is easiest and most effective this way. Please call our tech support line if you need more details +1 (888) 433-5824
@@coselladorken don't use this product but instead use rockwool. It gives insulation, acts as a drainage path and will not rot. It is made of rock.
Is there a way to fix the tears in the membrane?
Tearing from the ground grabbing The dimple wrap and dragging it downwards as the backfill compresses I'll bet you it's fairly common especially on higher foundations.
All the concrete nails may make a weak points for future leaking. why not just using primer and glue
We can understand why you might think that but it is not really the case.
Should any water penetrate through that point or any other, the air gap fully relieves it of any hydrostatic pressure. Gravity will cause the water to flow down and away. Even if there was a crack in the foundation right where incidental water penetrated, there is nothing to push the water through. The Air Gap Technology allows gravity to be the dominant force, draining the water safely. Also, glue won’t hold high-density polyethylene (HDPE) against the forces from backfilling soil.
if that is your concern, just add a little sealant around the nail after after nailing, or you can justadd some sealant first, then nail it. it, and then seal after you nail it.
How much should I expect to pay to have this installed, including materials and labour, not including any digging or back-filling? I have about 50' of foundation to cover.
Prices vary from region to region, please reach out to me directly to connect you with a local representative. pbarrett@dorken.com
Not including excavation. Probably between 1500 and 2500usd. With excavation And backfill your around 6-7k for the whole job. This would be for a 1000sqft house. But best if you tar foundation first. Did ours ourself. With taring walls and excavation it ran us about 4k
I've had my membrane rip as the ground shifted, making the warranty useless after a decade
Hi Punji, we'd like to know more. Please contact technical support at +1 (888) 433-5824 to see how we can help!
Thats a big shift!
@@KevinPolin I wish I could post a picture
@@KevinPolin all it takes is some settling backfill. The dimples make an excellent grip for the ground to get hold of the membrane and pull it downward. Better off with a Xypex additive
Best practice would be to actually install a real waterproof membrane behind the Delta membrane.
DELTA®-MS is approved for stand-alone applications in Canada and the US:
- CCMC Approval (Dampproofing): bit.ly/2YU36tF
- CCMC Approval (Drainage): bit.ly/2sw9I5j
- ICC Approval: bit.ly/2PWyAv8
One can certainly apply a waterproof membrane first, should one choose. In areas with high water tables, our Installation Instructions advise it: bit.ly/38IxLyu
. If a waterproofing membrane is applied first, DELTA®-MS acts as an excellent protection board, something required by waterproofing manufacturers.
Drink every time he says Delta
And exactly how is moisture blocked from the concrete absorbing it?
Tar - thick black tar, then roll heavy black plastic over it. Finish with high density below grade FOMC board. Schedule 40 pvc pipe to a sump drain with surface access and backfill at least 50% gravel.
dimple just sheds water, it doesn't block moisture. I used tar and blueskin membrane on my house because it was built in a high hydrostatic area. Hasn't leaked since. The cracks I grinded out and filled with leak stopper cement.
forget about the thick black tar...we're in 2019 goddammit ! :)
Membrane such as Resisto or Blueskin, add proper primer before....then the dimple membrane.
Year 2020: membranes are plastic and tar . I build icf basements and the premade plastic/tar membranes work great on styrofoam. On concrete block and poured concrete walls below grade lots of tar is the only way to fill all those pores. A thick sheet of plastic pushed into the tar and topped with foam board is great. I’ve used dimple rolls , but backfilling with gravel reduces hydrostatic pressure against the wall - one is sure to have problems using dimple rolls and dirt as the dirt will fill the dimples and voila : water problems .
Anyone in this age that also does not install a footer drain is setting up property owners to have water problems .
I wouldn’t buy new construction without all thee above, but there are clueless buyers and worst : negligent builders .
Glenn Berquist
Footer drain is a must, i don't think it's even worth mentionning...you're right about he gravel. Instead of just about a foot above the drain you could backfill completely with 3/4 clear. No hydrostatic pressure buildup possible ! But you need to get rid of all that extra dirt ! here in montreal, add 92$/h for the 12-wheeler plus around 100$ for each load to dump at a accreditated eco-center. that's some money most customers won't understand the true value of it
Lol - here in Mississippi you can dump that dirt at may places free!
What’s an eco center ?
It's sad how many times Delta had to answer your questions here. This is 100% a wall damp and waterproofing system it is not a drainage system. They likely sell one though. Both are required by code in the OBC 9.13 (Ontario, Canada) the majority of the time. The worry of nails... my god, free drainage and the nails don't penetrate into the house - ffs. Most of you should hire a competent builder and stop doing DIY on the most expensive thing you own.