When sheathing you would normally start with full sheet then switch to half sheet to start on second row thus making roof considerably stronger . Snapping a line 4' line off fascia the complete length of roof will make sure sheathing stays straight and square on first row to compensate for slight differences in truss tails (facia ). Another good practice is to snap a line and cut before installing facia on rafter tail to make up for any tail that may be in or out causing in and out when sighting down facia on finished product .
depends on the desires or need overkill today is a big waste of money but i do get your point I prefer the old school ways of doing anything aka zero waste and i use nothing but 2x6's for my walls no matter the structure and have zero cracking in any of my walls if there is drywall ;-)
It’s not a waste of money nor overkill, you just use the 1/2 sheets on the other end. And it’s bad practice to not stagger the sheets that are providing your shear strength. The old school ways were not to waste, yes, but to also build things to last. Aligning seams is not a great way to do that. No one builds a brick wall without staggering the bricks unless it’s a non-structural (decorative) section of brick. Similar idea.
Good job for the effort and tackling this project on your own because a lot of people would of hired someone to do it and believe me you saved a lot of money doing it yourself. I must say that your trusses are not braced at both ends and in the middle, I say in the middle because your building is longer than 20'. I'm talking about 45 degree bracing going from top of truss to bottom chord and in the middle in your case or every 20' you need "X" bracing going from top of truss to bottom chord. This will keep your trusses from moving from end to end. You can still go up in the attic and install these braces, of course if it's insulated up there it will be a pain but I would definitely go up there and get that done especially with the way you've installed your OSB on the roof without staggering the joints. Something else I've noticed is the OSB should not of been a short piece over the ladders, you want that piece to go onto the trusses as far as possible on the first row and it will be staggered by 4' on the next row. I know you think it's rigid right now without staggering the joints but it's long term from years of wind pushing on your building that the problems will start. Ever noticed old barns or old machine sheds. You will lose some material depending on your eave distance but that's the nature of the business. I hope you understand what I'm trying to explain here. I'm not trying to criticize your work, you did a good job. Just want you to learn from it.
Looked a bit risky shoving the OSB up your large ladder. So glad you had no mishaps and got to continue on building. At almost 70 years old I am building my own home and solo as well for the most part.
The effort did play a factor. But I realized the roof was plenty strong even without the staggering. 4:12 pitch was a bit scary at times. 6:12 would be no fun at all !
@sethcraftworkshop with only about 12 feet wide building, I don't really have anywhere to walk....I'm just scooting around on my butt, I don't trust standing up anymore than I have too. I'm shingling tomorrow and hope to never be up there again for a while. I enjoy watching your progress, someday I'd like to build a shop too.
Nice work. Thanks for sharing this. About the underlayment: I think one which is designed for high-temperature applications is normally used under metal roofs.
Thank you. Getting the osb and underlayment on is ladder work but one of my favorite parts of the build. Getting the option to work out of the rain is so nice.
H clips should be centered on OSB between rafter spacing. This aids to support the OSB between each rafter. Plus + all the other comments observed with this project.
Nails having more shear strength than screws, do you have high winds or earthquakes in your location? I know you used screws on everything but might you be concerned when the building settles? Screws snap off real easy vs. nails. Great job by yourself and I remember the day I could 'beast mode' materials up on a roof etc. Those days are gone now. Keep charging forward, proves one Man can do most anything by himself.
You don't need the H-clips if there is blocking under the joint with the next OSB. You said after the first side you would stagger the joints on the OSB on the other side but I see you did not do that. I enjoyed the Star Wars effect.
Nice job but the OSB sheets for the ladders. I think it would have been stronger if you had only used 4ft, 6ft, or 8ft lengths of OSB there. The OSB should be cantilevered out over the ladder. It will be ok though as it is. I live in FL, so more concerned with Hurricane winds.
If only they made some kind of hand-held device that could hold collated fasteners that would make it fast and easy to attach that OSB to the trusses... 🤔
If we're going to kick him while he's down, he's the only TH-camr I've seen rocking Worx tools. Saw some today at Menards...glad that impact is serving you well!
But you get lot of credit for the try. Im amazed you dident need to pull a permit and the inspector dident catch it to have you correct anything not to code.
You need the clips where you did not place blocking, not with the blocking section, there you just gap and NAIL DOWN. why did you not use plywood on the roof? The cost is not allot different. 1/2 " a/c or a/d exterior plywood if your pinching pennies. 😊
Those screws will one day snap and you will have major issues my friend next time you roof shoot nails in through osb to trusses and where ever else you used screws to fasten with nails where you can and next time stager the osb to get a better mendend weaved assembly your osb has one huge break point
@@sethcraftshop I guess it depends on where you live. In my jurisdiction, the building inspector would have made me tear the OSB off, put sway braces on, and buy all new OSB and stagger the sheeting - and we're in neither a seismic nor hurricane risk zone. Codes are *minimums*. Our inspector would have had a fit that you aren't meeting a minimum structural/safety code.
4:18 Stopped watching. You need to start your first FULL sheet on the roof edge, not like you did. Also, you are not staggering your osb. That's like roofing 101.
When sheathing you would normally start with full sheet then switch to half sheet to start on second row thus making roof considerably stronger . Snapping a line 4' line off fascia the complete length of roof will make sure sheathing stays straight and square on first row to compensate for slight differences in truss tails (facia ). Another good practice is to snap a line and cut before installing facia on rafter tail to make up for any tail that may be in or out causing in and out when sighting down facia on finished product .
depends on the desires or need overkill today is a big waste of money but i do get your point I prefer the old school ways of doing anything aka zero waste and i use nothing but 2x6's for my walls no matter the structure and have zero cracking in any of my walls if there is drywall ;-)
It’s not a waste of money nor overkill, you just use the 1/2 sheets on the other end. And it’s bad practice to not stagger the sheets that are providing your shear strength. The old school ways were not to waste, yes, but to also build things to last. Aligning seams is not a great way to do that. No one builds a brick wall without staggering the bricks unless it’s a non-structural (decorative) section of brick. Similar idea.
Looking great and loved the light saber at the end!!! Can’t wait to see the next video!
Ha yes the saber was fun. Up next is the metal roof! That install was less than fun.
light saber at the end was a nice touch
Thanks! It was fun to make that clip.
Well done. My little 8x10 lawnmower shed roof is coming up soon: sheeting, underlayment and shingles. Glad to see you do it first.
An 8x10 is a good size for a lawnmower. I know it's ladder work but I rather enjoy the roof sheathing.
Excellent work Seth.
Thank you. The OSB and underlayment on the roof is a great step to reach. Weathering in the building from rain.
Good job for the effort and tackling this project on your own because a lot of people would of hired someone to do it and believe me you saved a lot of money doing it yourself. I must say that your trusses are not braced at both ends and in the middle, I say in the middle because your building is longer than 20'. I'm talking about 45 degree bracing going from top of truss to bottom chord and in the middle in your case or every 20' you need "X" bracing going from top of truss to bottom chord. This will keep your trusses from moving from end to end. You can still go up in the attic and install these braces, of course if it's insulated up there it will be a pain but I would definitely go up there and get that done especially with the way you've installed your OSB on the roof without staggering the joints. Something else I've noticed is the OSB should not of been a short piece over the ladders, you want that piece to go onto the trusses as far as possible on the first row and it will be staggered by 4' on the next row. I know you think it's rigid right now without staggering the joints but it's long term from years of wind pushing on your building that the problems will start. Ever noticed old barns or old machine sheds. You will lose some material depending on your eave distance but that's the nature of the business. I hope you understand what I'm trying to explain here. I'm not trying to criticize your work, you did a good job. Just want you to learn from it.
I had same questions, also wonder how you will vent the attic? Best regards, very impressive craftsmanship
I was wondering why you didn't stagger the OSB on the roof, it would have made it stronger
I needed too but it just did not work out that way. The roof seems very strong even without staggering the osb.
Awesome job. Loved it at @10:18
Thank you. So nice to have a covering on the building!
Looked a bit risky shoving the OSB up your large ladder. So glad you had no mishaps and got to continue on building. At almost 70 years old I am building my own home and solo as well for the most part.
lol, the lightsaber effect was not expected but very welcomed
Haha I thought it was a good touch to a construction video.
@ I’m building a 24x30 shop in a couple months alone. Thanks for the confidence
What drove the lack of stagger? Just didn't think worth the effort? I wish I had that 4:12 pitch, I'm finding 6:12 to be about limit for walking.
The effort did play a factor. But I realized the roof was plenty strong even without the staggering.
4:12 pitch was a bit scary at times. 6:12 would be no fun at all !
@sethcraftworkshop with only about 12 feet wide building, I don't really have anywhere to walk....I'm just scooting around on my butt, I don't trust standing up anymore than I have too. I'm shingling tomorrow and hope to never be up there again for a while. I enjoy watching your progress, someday I'd like to build a shop too.
Great videos.. You should be proud of yourself!
Thank you. This has been the largest construction project I've done, and it seems to have turned out very well.
great video man always back to the basics!
You are a true inspiration!
Thank you. The OSB part of the roof is actually rather fun.
Nice work. Thanks for sharing this. About the underlayment: I think one which is designed for high-temperature applications is normally used under metal roofs.
great work!
Thank you. This is actually one of my favorite steps in the build.
Job well done! .....Cheers
Thank you. Getting the osb and underlayment on is ladder work but one of my favorite parts of the build. Getting the option to work out of the rain is so nice.
Nice move with the saber
Haha yes that was too fun to cut out.
Is it 600sqft house?
Impressive!
H clips should be centered on OSB between rafter spacing.
This aids to support the OSB between each rafter.
Plus + all the other comments observed with this project.
Nails having more shear strength than screws, do you have high winds or earthquakes in your location? I know you used screws on everything but might you be concerned when the building settles? Screws snap off real easy vs. nails. Great job by yourself and I remember the day I could 'beast mode' materials up on a roof etc. Those days are gone now. Keep charging forward, proves one Man can do most anything by himself.
Screws work I like rim shank nails they have groves and glue that make them ready hard to pull out
I will have to give that a try on my next build. Thanks.
Those H clips can fall out easily. I guess it's not real important to alternate sheets for strength. Great job!
The peak would be nice to see
You don't need the H-clips if there is blocking under the joint with the next OSB. You said after the first side you would stagger the joints on the OSB on the other side but I see you did not do that. I enjoyed the Star Wars effect.
Nice job but the OSB sheets for the ladders. I think it would have been stronger if you had only used 4ft, 6ft, or 8ft lengths of OSB there. The OSB should be cantilevered out over the ladder. It will be ok though as it is. I live in FL, so more concerned with Hurricane winds.
If only they made some kind of hand-held device that could hold collated fasteners that would make it fast and easy to attach that OSB to the trusses... 🤔
If someone could come up with that product they would make millions! I bet it would even fasten other materials too! Haha
If we're going to kick him while he's down, he's the only TH-camr I've seen rocking Worx tools. Saw some today at Menards...glad that impact is serving you well!
He forgot to stagger on the other side too? 😅
But you get lot of credit for the try. Im amazed you dident need to pull a permit and the inspector dident catch it to have you correct anything not to code.
You need the clips where you did not place blocking, not with the blocking section, there you just gap and NAIL DOWN. why did you not use plywood on the roof? The cost is not allot different. 1/2 " a/c or a/d exterior plywood if your pinching pennies. 😊
no staggered joints :/
could have built a plywood rack, would have made it much easier. Maybe next time !! 🙂
Those screws will one day snap and you will have major issues my friend next time you roof shoot nails in through osb to trusses and where ever else you used screws to fasten with nails where you can and next time stager the osb to get a better mendend weaved assembly your osb has one huge break point
i have a 20x30 and added another 20x30 so its 40 x 30 lol second half 2 story should be fun :D
Amazing how our things expand to need larger buildings.
no sway braces no staggered sheeting
Both are good ideas.
@@sethcraftshop I guess it depends on where you live. In my jurisdiction, the building inspector would have made me tear the OSB off, put sway braces on, and buy all new OSB and stagger the sheeting - and we're in neither a seismic nor hurricane risk zone. Codes are *minimums*. Our inspector would have had a fit that you aren't meeting a minimum structural/safety code.
putting the strips over the eves wasnt the right move..Should have been full and half sheets to the edge.
OSB/plywood roof sheeting should be installed staggered.
Hi
I am a truss designer, in my service I provide truss layout and design.
also provide quantity takeoff for construction jobs i/c; MEP.
Thank you
Forgot to stagger pieces.
Yes. Or more like just did not want to cut the sheets. It is a good idea to stagger though.
There has to be a better way for an individual man to lift up plywood.
7/16 is not 1/2 inch.
That is correct. Its close though.
tell that to literally ever framer ever who refers to 7/16 as half inch hope this helps
It should be 5/8 for the roof, should be staggering the seams.
4:18
Stopped watching. You need to start your first FULL sheet on the roof edge, not like you did. Also, you are not staggering your osb. That's like roofing 101.
That’s horrifying. I had to stop watching
osb is for indoor. osb sucks. never use on roof.