Hello Jason! I've been watching your videos for quite some time now and I just wanted to start by saying I'm very glad you offer 10/10 services i think that is one of the most important things in this industry. I happen to do stone floor restoration and have also done concrete overlays in the past. I wanted to ask if you could PLEASE make a video that defines the differences between hard and soft concrete! I live in Southern California so I'm just assuming most concrete out here is probably hard but I would like to know the differences between the two. Thank you so much I appreciate the time and great videos you put out! 👍
I appreciate the great compliment. I will try to keep that in the back of my mind on future jobs to point out the differences between hard and soft concrete. Thank you for watching
I know how it goes - I'll think the camera is on, but nope. This floor looks great, and I think you hit a happy medium between being concise and yet explaining what you're doing, well enough for laypeople like myself to understand.
I had my outdoor kitchen area done in the exact same color. In the future can this be resealed with the more clear epoxy to keep it from wearing out, fading or yellowing? If so, would it require some kind of clear bonding before the epoxy, or could you just wash dry and re-apply? Thank you?
If you used a clear epoxy, It will yellow. Epoxy is not UV stable. You would need to reapply a base coat of either epoxy or polyaspartic, reflake and apply a Polyaspartic topcoat that wont yellow on you. concretefloorsolutions.com/product-category/polyaspartics/ here is a link to our polyaspartic kits
I mis read the wrong can and misspoke. I found the correct empty can they used, and it was the Sparta-Flex Clear by HP Spartacote. Im sorry for the misunderstanding on my part. I'm sorry. But now that were on the same page. Can this be recoated in the future, if need be? Only for maintenance and keeping it looking like new? Thnak you
I have a similar issue in our house. The house was initially a 1 car garage and they added another car making it a two car garage. Which made me think to patch it instead. However, as you walk towards the front (still inside the garage), the original cements depth is significant (half the size of a dime) and alot less towards the back of the garage. Should I seal it with epoxy or clean up the edges and add a polyurethane in the crack?
Awesome job yet again! Could you explain why/how the thermal movement causes cracks in joints such as this? Also, does pulling the screws out cause any damage at all? Love the channel :)
All materials expand and contract with temperature change. Concrete expands in heat and contracts when it gets cold. If it is exposed to the elements, it will move more than if it was in a controlled environment like a garage or basement. That is why we decided to leave that joint open. As far as the screws, I just got off the phone with the owner, he pulled all of them out with zero damage so he can use them in fall for his temporary enclosure
Is there any way to keep the epoxy from dripping over the edge of the patio? The company I work for spends a lot of time replastering after these jobs, we use duct tape around the outside edge but it’s minimally effective at best…. Thanks!
I really like the flake colors on this! Matches the house and island perfectly! So, what exactly is different between the normal topcoat and the polyaspartic? (Under what circumstances would you pick one versus the other?)
Our standard topcoat we use for interior work and garages is the CFS-137MUV (100% solids clear epoxy). The upgraded topcoat would be the polyaspartic (CFS-444X) which is truly UV stable and will not yellow overtime. The negatives of the polyaspartic is that it is a fairly rapid setting material and can be difficult to work with in hot and humid temperatures and is also much more expensive than the standard topcoat. That being said, it is also better scratch and abrasion resistance.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thanks for the quick response! Oh, and thanks for demonstrating the Racatac -- it looks exactly like what I need, and I just ordered one!
Imas pravo!! Odgovor je smijesan ali istinit! To je pravo cudo sto se sve pojavi kada se izvede pod na otvorenom! Cesto kazem da nam u svjezu smolu udje zadnji Tasmanski tigar kojeg trazimo kao dokaz da jos nije izumro!!
Komentar iz Splita - inace skolovan u Berlin (BRD) - u videu nije prikazana kljucna radna operacija nanosenja nosivog sloja, … to je napravljeno namjerno i zato video nije potpun. Nadalje - dosta pitanja ticu se paraametara koji su navedeni u tehnickim listovima materijala … UV stabilnost, otpornost na habanje, itd tako da svatko moze kontrolirati odgovaraju li izabrani materijali za konkretni pod.
Posto nije prikazano posipanje dekorativnim cipsom gledatelji su dovedeni u zabludu. Povrsina poda prije nanosenja zastitnog laka nije smola vec cips, dakle treba ukloniti visak cipsa metlom ili industrijskim usisivacem, a tada je pozeljno fino prebrusiti tako da otpadne cips koji se nije 100 % zalijepio, osim toga time se uklone i vrhovi - siljci koji kasnije mogu uzrokovati prekomjernu hrapavost, a svakako i nepotrebno vecu kolicinu zavrsnog PU sloja. UV stabilnost sustava ne daje transparentni zavrsni sloj vec sam dekorativni cips koji je UV stabilan. Pozdrav iz Dalmacije - Vukic ITD, Split
Either too thick, or vapor transmission through the slab. Use a good primer first and try to avoid direct sunlight while temps are rising. Heat rises, pulls vapors out of concrete creates bubbles.
Could have been a lot more precise on how long before you can walk on it after finished coat and how long before rain can hit it or can you cover with a tarp after a few hours if it rains
Weather conditions play a huge part on when it can be walked on etc. It can be as little as 3 hours, or up to 12. We always recommend 72 hours before opening to full traffic to avoid any issues. I would say at least 8 hours before rain can hit it, but that could vary if the weather is colder. So the answer is, there is no definite time frame.
Liked and subscribed. I live in Dallas. Got mine done by a company named ProArmour. Very unprofessional and going with another company for my garage. They did not use a grinder like yours. Theirs was smaller and kicked up so much dust and they stole my push broom! Do you have a company you recommend in Dallas?
Radi se na ribarskim brodovima i to bas kod vas. Imali smo u Splitu jednu ribaricu za kozice iz Floride. Ovaj sustav koji se u Germany zove tzv. Flockenbelag bio je na toj ribarici izveden na sperploci i to u debljini od 5 mm. To je bio tenk, a ne pod. Kod rada na sperploci bitno je da se svakako sprijeci da smola svojom snagom i napetoscu prilikom stvrdnjavanja ne iskrivi, izvitoperi sperplocu … sperploca mora biti jako kruto pricvrscena za podlogu. Naravno kompletan izbor materijala i tehnoloski niz mora stimati. Pozdrav!
It can be if you apply the topcoat to thick and do not apply aluminum oxide. We apply aluminum oxide with the topcoat to add texture. Our kits, with plenty of aluminum oxide. concretefloorsolutions.com/product-category/epoxy-floor-kits/ For more information, email me direct jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions can I send you email with a few questions I have about the material in this video. I’m a small business owner and I can use a few pointers.
It looks great I want to see how it looks in the couple of years.
Great work, I’m getting my garage done in a couple of weeks and your videos helped me decide what to go with.
Glad we could help.
Man that was a perfect color choice, turned out amazing!
You guys did a really thorough job, looks great!
I like the color choice is there a top coat you recommend that has less glare?
Can you tell me what material brands to use please
concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy-floor-kits/500-sq-ft-cfs-1c-polyaspartic-flake-floor-kit
I will measure and contact you
I will measure and let you know how many feet I need
@@dynoesaur you can email me directly, jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
This its the best info I found til now...thanks 4 not being selfish!!
You are very welcome, thanks for watching.
Hello Jason! I've been watching your videos for quite some time now and I just wanted to start by saying I'm very glad you offer 10/10 services i think that is one of the most important things in this industry. I happen to do stone floor restoration and have also done concrete overlays in the past. I wanted to ask if you could PLEASE make a video that defines the differences between hard and soft concrete! I live in Southern California so I'm just assuming most concrete out here is probably hard but I would like to know the differences between the two. Thank you so much I appreciate the time and great videos you put out! 👍
I appreciate the great compliment. I will try to keep that in the back of my mind on future jobs to point out the differences between hard and soft concrete. Thank you for watching
Great video
Can we see a picture of this floor today?
I would do my driveway, but I'm worried about UV damaging the epoxy.
Would this hold if the sun was to hit it all day?
I don't know if I would recommend this in a driveway. But you could do it if you want. It is UV stable with the polyaspartic topcoat
Outstanding Work !!
I know how it goes - I'll think the camera is on, but nope. This floor looks great, and I think you hit a happy medium between being concise and yet explaining what you're doing, well enough for laypeople like myself to understand.
Can you use this type of coating around a pool?
I would not recommend it around a pool because of the chemicals
You dint show main part
How did it hold up on the outdoor patio?
@@manjarikapashi9195 zero complaints from customer, so I'm assuming great.
I had my outdoor kitchen area done in the exact same color. In the future can this be resealed with the more clear epoxy to keep it from wearing out, fading or yellowing? If so, would it require some kind of clear bonding before the epoxy, or could you just wash dry and re-apply? Thank you?
If you used a clear epoxy, It will yellow. Epoxy is not UV stable. You would need to reapply a base coat of either epoxy or polyaspartic, reflake and apply a Polyaspartic topcoat that wont yellow on you. concretefloorsolutions.com/product-category/polyaspartics/
here is a link to our polyaspartic kits
I mis read the wrong can and misspoke. I found the correct empty can they used, and it was the Sparta-Flex Clear by HP Spartacote. Im sorry for the misunderstanding on my part. I'm sorry. But now that were on the same page. Can this be recoated in the future, if need be? Only for maintenance and keeping it looking like new? Thnak you
@@castbob I cannot speak for anyone else's products, but with ours, you would need to lightly sand and reapply as needed.
I have a similar issue in our house. The house was initially a 1 car garage and they added another car making it a two car garage. Which made me think to patch it instead. However, as you walk towards the front (still inside the garage), the original cements depth is significant (half the size of a dime) and alot less towards the back of the garage. Should I seal it with epoxy or clean up the edges and add a polyurethane in the crack?
Curious to all the costs, not just the material.
Hi, nice work! Would you suggest some silica sand added for traction? What did use? Thank u!
Thanks for watching, We added Aluminum Oxide to the clear Polyaspartic.
Awesome job yet again! Could you explain why/how the thermal movement causes cracks in joints such as this? Also, does pulling the screws out cause any damage at all? Love the channel :)
All materials expand and contract with temperature change. Concrete expands in heat and contracts when it gets cold. If it is exposed to the elements, it will move more than if it was in a controlled environment like a garage or basement.
That is why we decided to leave that joint open. As far as the screws, I just got off the phone with the owner, he pulled all of them out with zero damage so he can use them in fall for his temporary enclosure
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thank you for the explanation, great work!
My man, so you don't hardness test your substrate before choosing your bond? can you tell from experience? amazing
also im in year two of business and business is slow man - did you have a hard time way back in your beginning stages?
Is there any way to keep the epoxy from dripping over the edge of the patio? The company I work for spends a lot of time replastering after these jobs, we use duct tape around the outside edge but it’s minimally effective at best…. Thanks!
Not that I know of, epoxy has a way of wicking underneath tape. If you figure something out, let me know.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions sure thing, thanks for the quick reply!
Great video. No acid wash and neutralizer rinse necessary?
Acid etching causes more harm than good. Diamond grind only, do not rinse or pressure wash.
Great and neatly done work!
Just to ask, will top polyaspartic coat protect under epoxy layers?
Is this flake color FB-965 or FB-517? thank you
FB-517
I really like the flake colors on this! Matches the house and island perfectly! So, what exactly is different between the normal topcoat and the polyaspartic? (Under what circumstances would you pick one versus the other?)
Our standard topcoat we use for interior work and garages is the CFS-137MUV (100% solids clear epoxy). The upgraded topcoat would be the polyaspartic (CFS-444X) which is truly UV stable and will not yellow overtime. The negatives of the polyaspartic is that it is a fairly rapid setting material and can be difficult to work with in hot and humid temperatures and is also much more expensive than the standard topcoat. That being said, it is also better scratch and abrasion resistance.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thanks for the quick response! Oh, and thanks for demonstrating the Racatac -- it looks exactly like what I need, and I just ordered one!
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions So does the standard topcoat yellow? Or are you saying it would if outside and uv got to it?
@@dennydeckerful Exterior, the standard would yellow over time. The polyaspartic does not.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions That's what I was thinking, thanks. Love the videos.
How do you keep Mother Nature (pollen, floating seeds, critters, etc.) Off the concrete while the coatings cure?
Work fast, watch weather and pray.
Imas pravo!! Odgovor je smijesan ali istinit! To je pravo cudo sto se sve pojavi kada se izvede pod na otvorenom!
Cesto kazem da nam u svjezu smolu udje zadnji Tasmanski tigar kojeg trazimo kao dokaz da jos nije izumro!!
Seems like the video skipped the part where you painted/applied the coating.
Komentar iz Splita - inace skolovan u Berlin (BRD) - u videu nije prikazana kljucna radna operacija nanosenja nosivog sloja, … to je napravljeno namjerno i zato video nije potpun. Nadalje - dosta pitanja ticu se paraametara koji su navedeni u tehnickim listovima materijala … UV stabilnost, otpornost na habanje, itd tako da svatko moze kontrolirati odgovaraju li izabrani materijali za konkretni pod.
So if you put the polyaspartic top coat on within 24 hours over epoxy you don't have to sand?
That is correct.
Posto nije prikazano posipanje dekorativnim cipsom gledatelji su dovedeni u zabludu. Povrsina poda prije nanosenja zastitnog laka nije smola vec cips, dakle treba ukloniti visak cipsa metlom ili industrijskim usisivacem, a tada je pozeljno fino prebrusiti tako da otpadne cips koji se nije 100 % zalijepio, osim toga time se uklone i vrhovi - siljci koji kasnije mogu uzrokovati prekomjernu hrapavost, a svakako i nepotrebno vecu kolicinu zavrsnog PU sloja.
UV stabilnost sustava ne daje transparentni zavrsni sloj vec sam dekorativni cips koji je UV stabilan.
Pozdrav iz Dalmacije - Vukic ITD, Split
Why some bubbles sometimes after polyaspartic top coat?
Either too thick, or vapor transmission through the slab. Use a good primer first and try to avoid direct sunlight while temps are rising. Heat rises, pulls vapors out of concrete creates bubbles.
Could have been a lot more precise on how long before you can walk on it after finished coat and how long before rain can hit it or can you cover with a tarp after a few hours if it rains
Weather conditions play a huge part on when it can be walked on etc. It can be as little as 3 hours, or up to 12. We always recommend 72 hours before opening to full traffic to avoid any issues. I would say at least 8 hours before rain can hit it, but that could vary if the weather is colder. So the answer is, there is no definite time frame.
Good Job
Liked and subscribed. I live in Dallas. Got mine done by a company named ProArmour. Very unprofessional and going with another company for my garage. They did not use a grinder like yours. Theirs was smaller and kicked up so much dust and they stole my push broom! Do you have a company you recommend in Dallas?
Looks Great nice job !!!
can you put this on a plywood deck?
I would not recommend it.
Radi se na ribarskim brodovima i to bas kod vas. Imali smo u Splitu jednu ribaricu za kozice iz Floride. Ovaj sustav koji se u Germany zove tzv. Flockenbelag bio je na toj ribarici izveden na sperploci i to u debljini od 5 mm. To je bio tenk, a ne pod. Kod rada na sperploci bitno je da se svakako sprijeci da smola svojom snagom i napetoscu prilikom stvrdnjavanja ne iskrivi, izvitoperi sperplocu … sperploca mora biti jako kruto pricvrscena za podlogu. Naravno kompletan izbor materijala i tehnoloski niz mora stimati. Pozdrav!
How big is your generator……..can you run all your equipment at the same time with it
58kw, yes, we run 480v, two grinders and a vacuum system and plenty left over.
Is this slippery when wet?
It can be if you apply the topcoat to thick and do not apply aluminum oxide.
We apply aluminum oxide with the topcoat to add texture. Our kits, with plenty of aluminum oxide. concretefloorsolutions.com/product-category/epoxy-floor-kits/
For more information, email me direct jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
How much did you charger to do that ?
That was a couple years ago, I forget I believe around $3500
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions can I send you email with a few questions I have about the material in this video. I’m a small business owner and I can use a few pointers.
Btw great video 👍🏽💪🏼
@@jayjaytru2380 absolutely, email jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
Top notch!
u need ear protection
We always wear earplugs when grinding.