Greetings Ron from Ron in Colorado. A friend of mine, Stan Tekiela recommended your videos since I have an R5 on its way to me (supposed be here Wed.). It is replacing one of my two Mk5 IV’s. I am a nature, landscape, macro, fine art, and eclectic photograper. I love a diversity of subjects, but birds are my areas of high passion, but at the same time one of frustration, especially since my cataract surgeries. I have just about given up hope of capturing sharp images of birds moving or in flight. Many of the issues you mention pre R5 painfully resonate with me. That is why Stan recommended the R5 and your videos. This is the first one I watched and I am impressed with your level of knowledge and wisdom and their coming so clearly through in your videos. Kudos!! I need to go and look at some more of yours to better understand how to get that initial lock on the Birdseye. Stan recommended customizing one of my buttons to quicky implement switching to birds and eyes. I also read it is better set my shutter button to sans the AF function. I surely have a lot to learn especially since I’m leaving for photographing water birds and moose in upper Colorado in a week. Blessings and thank you!
Love the no nonsense quality of your videos and the great photography. As a photographer since the mid 70’s, I appreciate someone who teaches me new things. Really looking forward to rejoining the Canon camp with the pending arrival today of an R5/100-500. Really looking forward to it as an easy to transport outfit for bird photography.
I couldn’t agree more Ron my subjects have been drifting round the frame too. Your videos have been brilliant and have helped me get the most from my R5. Thank you. Shame I’m not closer Dave (UK)
This is a useful discussion Ron, as have been all of your past videos on the R5. I have only had my R5 for a few weeks and am still learning. I have realized (subconsciously) what you have so nicely elaborated in words. I, too, came from a 1DXii. Now that you have described this I suspect I will be more conscious of what is happening while I am shooting. The rule of 3rds grid, which I find helpful at times, doesn’t bother me so much. I am also learning what is a maximum practical subject distance to shoot. Although the 45 MP help in this regard, the eye-detect AF does not work well beyond a certain range and this has fallen into the mix for me with the R5. Maybe the lesson there is that if eye-detect AF is not working, the subject may be too distant.
I believe you are getting good grasp on what it takes to make great images with the R5. When the bird is too distant for eye detect I go to the old standby of a single AF point. For example, for small in the frame bird compositions. Thanks so much for the comment. Always appreciated.
Love your videos - thanks! Instant fix for this paradigm shift is a Nikon DF-M1 Dot Sight. "When attached to the camera's hot-shoe, it assists you in acquiring distant subjects by acting as a zoomed-out targeting device. Line up the subject in the Dot Sight at a normal field of view to easily track it at extreme magnifications". I use it on my Canon EOS-R5 with RF 100-500. At
Yep, it definitely is a paradigm shift. It definitely take some thinking to find the best way to use the system given that now composition for fast flying birds must be done rapidly as the bird moves through the sky. It certain ways, it is more challenging than before. And that is big fun! Thanks.
When I bought the R5 I had no intentions of getting rid of my 1DX2 and 5dsr but it didn't take long to know I never wanted to shoot wildlife without animal eye AF again. I do a lot less cropping now that I'm able to frame it in camera so easy the way I want it. I'm looking forward to spring this year and seeing how much better my shots and keeper rate will be compared to last spring. It's starting to warm up here in the N.E. and I can't wait.
For me the grid is too distracting as it puts lines all over the viewfinder. I would much prefer a very small cross at the very center of the frame or better yet one that could be moved around the frame like you can do with an AF point. I highly doubt Canon will ever do this, but I can always dream.
Well said and I think the same can be said for the R6. There are still times when the eye AF gets frustrating. For example, when I'm tracking ospreys coming out of the water with fish, much of the time my eye AF still wants to grab onto the water and I have to use spot AF till the osprey gets into the air. Still, it's miles ahead of anything else I've ever experienced...it's a real game changer.
Agree. Not sure what Tracking Sensitivity you have set, but I have mine all the way to the negative and if I am on the bird when it hits the water it tends to do a great job of staying on the bird. Just a thought.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I had set it to your recommendation of all the way negative under Case 2. This seems to be more of an issue when the bird is farther away as I'm tracking it inbound so I'm not super concerned as I'm generally not shooting it at that time anyway.
Thanks Ron, I have the R6 and thought it was just me getting BIF in the corners of my frame 🤣. I think it has to do with the novelty of the amazing AF system on these cameras; you can’t quite believe it can be so good so you are constantly checking that it does indeed have focus on the eye so you forget about the position of the bird in the frame. I am sure I will get used to it. Great content as always. 👍🏻
Same observation on my R6 too. May it he corner right, left bottom or top the camera just follow along :). I just want to make sure the subject is inside the frame lol. AF Eye detection is superb, it changes my shooting on bird in flight. Like with my 1DX I only focus on the center point and keep in the center. Thanks for the Video Ron, keep them coming.
It was pretty much the first thing I noticed, the fact I could just concentrate on framing rather than correctly manoeuvring an AF point around. And yes, it really does make the process of taking a photo feel very different, much more controlled.
Thanks for the comment. For me, the level clutters up the VF too much. I like a very clean view of my subjects especially when shooting really fast BIF. So far I find putting he camera in spot meter mode is best for me as it provides a very subtle circle in the center of the frame. Still would be better to have a dedicated reticle as a choice among the grids you can overlay. Cheers
Hi Ron, great video and some great thoughts/views, I agree 100% about the R5/R6 eye detect AF changing the way we shoot birds or wildlife, it's freeing to be able to concentrate on composition rather than trying to get your AF point/area over the subject and hope your camera gets focus and locks on to the subject. I found the Servo AF on my 1DX II to be really frustrating as it would be a bit inconsistent at keeping focus locked on to my subject, all that is history as the R6 nails focus every shot consistently, I don't use single shot AF much and I reckon I use Servo eye AF for 99% of my shots as it's that good. Keep up the great content mate and happy shooting 👍
Thanks for the comment. Always appreciated. I am sure many folks will use the grid display, but for me the grids, especially the one with the diagonal clutters up the VF too much. I like a clean VF when I am shooting, especially birds in flight. A small cross-hairs in the center of the frame would work for me. Again, just me.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Understood and I figured that was your reason. The 3x3 seems fine but I agree, a simple center point would be another nice option.
in OLYMPUS, there is a finder screen option just like what you wanted. this is in EM! mkIII. I wonder if they had it in EM1 mkII. Olympus is so advanced, they thought about this looong time back.
Great video as always! Thank you very much for making these videos. BTW you can use grid 3x3 with diagonal or like me 6x4 to put a center reference on your frame.
Thanks so much for the comment. Yep, the grids are available, but for me they clutter up the VF too much. I would like something much less obtrusive like a very fine cross-hairs in the center of the frame, or, better yet, a cross-hair that could be moved around.
What about using the old DSLR to obtain the focus on a focus point, then recompose? That way you don't have to have the bird in the middle. What am I missing?
Idea with the eye detect with tracking in the new mirrorless R5 and other mirrorless cameras with animal eye detect with tracking is the AF "point" automatically moves around the frame following the eye of the bird/animal, so you can actively compose and recompose the shot just by moving the bird around in the frame while you are actively shooting. There is no need to move the single AF point around the frame manually or get focus on the bird using a centered AF point and then recomposing before you start shooting. Moreover, if a bird like a reddish egret is jumping all over the frame raising and lowering it head in a spit second the AF point automatically keeps focus on the eye so you can concentrate on keep the bird composed in the frame were you want it. This allows for a wholly different way of shooting than was available before.
Ron thanks for all the videos, i have the R5 and love it I use the star on back of camera for the eye detect my question is once the camera detects the eye do u keep holding down the button or you can release it and it stayed on subj at all times?
You need to keep holding the button down for it to keep focusing. If you have eye detect set to auto then the focus indicator will find the eye but for actual focus to be achieved you need to hold the button.
Have to agree that the Animal eye AF is pretty special. it would be great to know what your AF settings are for acceleration, deceleration etc. do you use the case settings or just adjust then and save them as a setting?
Use use Case 2 but I have the Tracking Sensitivity set all the way to the left (most negative) and the Accel/Decel set all the way to the Right (most positive). It seems to work best this way for my style of shooting. Thanks so much for the comments.
OK, Ron, just to make sure I've got this thing straight. Both the R5 AND the R6 have this animal eye detect? In other words, the Scot in me says, "You don't have to spend the extra bucks for the R5 - right laddie?". It seems that most of y'all who have mirrorless have the R5 and sort of eschew the R6. I have two aging 7D Mark II's and am thinking about the day that they come to the limit of their shutter activation lives. Before these two R-types came along I was going to either ship my cameras off to Canon or wherever you send them for new shutters, OR I was going to up-grade my dSLR Canon(s) to something full-frame. But now... now I am sort of saying, "Gee why not just go ahead, when the time comes, and go mirrorless?" (and hopefully not have to spend the big bucks on the R5, as my needs are pretty modest).
The best camera for you moving forward can only be assessed by you yourself. However, I will take this opportunity to mention a few things. First, you have been shooting a cropped sensor body for a long time it seems. The 7DII has a 20MP sensor. The R6 also has a 20MP sensor but it is full frame. That cropped sensor 20MP will put a lot more pixels on your subject then the 20MP full frame will at the same focal length. That can be a big and unwelcomed change when switching to full frame. When I switched from cropped to full frame many years ago a found I had to go from a 500mm lens to a 600mm lens plus a 1.4x TC many times to get the bird as big in the frame and thus have the pixels on the bird that I wanted to get the detail in the bird I wanted. The R5 has 45MP on a full frame sensor, so you can make that switch and still maintain a similar amount of detail on your subject without as big a change in needing to get your subject closer, or use more focal length. Just something to ponder. Thanks for the comment.
Been shooting 7D added 7D MKII wanted to jump to mirrorless went to R5 for full frame & 45mp. Thanks to Ron’s videos I feel I’ve up my pic taking game especially BIF. Reassigned buttons on R5 and now using the 7Ds is an effort. Now thinking a second R 5 body to keep thing consistent for this old body and mind.
Hi Ron many thanks for a most informative video on tracking and eye detection of birds. Just 1 question when you use eye detection and press the back button to focus the eye do you then release the button or keep it pressed when taking images of the birds or do you just release the back button while taking your pictures? kind regards Mike
Mike, you need to keep the button pressed as you are shooting. If you release the button the camera will stop focusing and if the bird or you moves closer or further away then the bird will go out of focus. So, keep the button pressed to keep the camera servo focusing on the bird, in this case the bird's eye. Cheers.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Many thanks Ron for your prompt and valuable advice. I now look forward to going out in the field and putting your advice into practice. Thanks again Mike 👍
Ron - First thank you for all the great and informative videos. Second I have set up my R5 as you described in your videos and am having trouble keeping the birds locked on. It mainly happens when the bird goes from a clear sky down towards the water. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated..
Try setting your Tracking Sensitivity all the way to the negative size and the Accel/decel all the way to the positive side (I do this under Case 2 AF). Also, there are other factors that can make a large difference such as which AF method you are using and under what conditions. Too many to really track down what would improve this for you. If you can provide more details on how you actually shoot such as AF method that is loosing lock, distance to subject, size of subject in the frame, lens you are using when this happens, I may be able to help further. Cheers,
It can be difficult. What I do is use spot AF to get initial AF on the bird I want and then switch to eye tracking. I do this by assigning the 3 back buttons on the R5 to 3 different AF methods. One of the buttons is dedicated to Spot AF. The other two to eye tracking and general AF method such as Zone.
Could i please ask a (stupid, i am afraid..) question? When you say that for the spot autofocus you need to simultaneously use the zone AF button, is that first zone, and then spot; or really these buttons at the same time (for which you would need two fingers..)?? thank you!
Here is the way I am now setting up my Back Buttons for AF. No need to press two button at the same time to use Spot AF when set up this way. The images I reference in my explanation below can be viewed here: ronaldbielefeld.smugmug.com/R5-menu-settings-for-AF-button-set-up/ Iin your AF1 menu set things up as I have them in the first attached image (IMG_3741). Then, in the Customize Buttons set the Shutter butt. Half-press to Metering Start only (IMG_3742). Also in the Customize Buttons menu set the * button to Metering and AF Start (IMG_3743). Then set your main AF method to Zone using whatever method you have set up for changing your main AF method. For the AF-ON button, again in the Customize Buttons menu, set it to Eye Detection AF (IMG_3742). For the AF Point Selection Button (the button right of the * button), again in the Customize Buttons menu, set it to Register/recall shooting func. (IMG_3743). When you are in the Register /recall Shooting func submenu hit the INFO button on the bottom left of the screen to go another menu deeper. In the menu that comes up you will be able to check or uncheck boxes next to several shooting functions (see IMG_3744). Uncheck all of them except AF Method, AF Operation, Tracking Sensitivity, and Accel./decel. Tracking. You want those checked (see attached image 3744). Then, while still in the Register/recall Shooting Function menu, select the AF Method and set it to “Spot.” (see IMG_3745) Under AF Operation make sure it is set to ON. Set the Tracking Sensitivity and Accel./Decel. Tracking like I show in the attached image (3744). Once you are done with all this set up you will have the AF-ON button set to Eye Detect, the * button set to Zone, and the AF Point Selection Button set to Spot. So, if you want spot AF all you have to do is press the back AF Point Selection Button and you get just the center AF point to focus with. No squares grabbing some other area of the frame. Of course, you can change the AF method that the * button initiates just by choosing a different main AF Method such as expanded horizontal or vertical zone, single AF point, single AF point with surround points, etc. Give this set up a try. I think you will like it.
Thank you for the video. I understand that Canon are listening to customers more than ever and are more inclined to add updates via firmware (as with v1.3 released today) therefore please report to Canon and request the feature (best come from you as you have the expertise). Thanks again :-)
Ron, thanks for all your videos I’m learning to up my photography game and get more from my equipment and self. Following your lead I try to anticipate bird / wildlife actions. What is your go to shutter speed for large bird and small launch to flight?
If the light allows I like 1/4000s. This is based on a lot of shooting of birds coming into perches while not panning. Many folks who have shot at my kingfisher perch in the winter do not pan with the incoming bird, but instead pre-focus on the perch and shoot a burst as the bird comes in. 1/4000s will stop the bird and produce a sharp image. Thus, if you are anticipating a take off and are a bit behind in your reaction, 1/4000s of a second will give you a good fudge factor to still get a sharp image. 1/4000s is also a great SS to stop all wing movement when you are panning with the bird on medium to larger birds. Also, if water is involved 1/4000s will stop the water drops and make them look like crystal in most instances. Of course you can shoot BIF at much slower shutter speeds and get the bird's body and eye sharp, it just depends on the bird and how good you are at accurately panning with the bird. I hope this helps.
Ron, there's one problem with both the R5 and R6 and I wonder if you have noticed it. In some situations some photographers are finding that the Eye-AF will lose the subject and begin to focus on something else, like the weeds, or grasses, or a twig, and when that happens it will not re-acquire its focus on the subject, ever. The photographers say they have to use manual focus or auto focus on the ground in the same plane as the subject. Even if they have set up dual back buttons auto focus, one for normal auto focus and the second one for animal Eye-AF, when they have this problem in Eye-AF and switch to normal auto focus the camera still will not let go of whatever it has decided to set its focus on! Any observations on this? These guys have tried everything! It's simply something that they have concluded is a feature of mirrorless cameras as this stage in their technology (or I guess at least Canon's; don't have any reports of this with Nikons, Sony, et al.)
The Sony a9II does the same thing. All AF systems I have used will do this. However, I have found a solution that works for me almost all the time with the R5. In the few instances when the AF grabs something and will not let go of it, I use Spot AF and put it on the subject and it almost always focuses on the subject I want immediately. Every once in a while I have to "pump" the back button I have set to Spot focus to get it to switch. My back button AF set up is as follows: AF-ON button set to Eye Detection, the * button set to Zone, and the AF Point Selection button set to Spot. If what you describe happens I just quickly press the AF Point Selection Button and I get focus where I want it, and then go back to Eye Detection if appropriate. Overall, I do not think this is a problem with the AF systems of mirrorless cameras, we are just asking too much of the AF systems to always find the eye even when the "eye" is way out of focus when we ask the camera to find it. Overall, for me, these AI driven AF systems have been spectacularly good. Thanks for the comment.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks for your reply. I will have to study what you said as I do not know these systems well enough to follow you exactly. I will share with my photographer friend. Thanks Ron!
Sure, please take a look at this video and let me know if you have any questions. I have made a few change since I made the video but for the most part things are set the same. Link to video: th-cam.com/video/6cbaoPeLbPI/w-d-xo.html
Great info as always, thanks! I'm wondering how amazing the upcoming Canon Quad Pixel AF system is, because rumours / leaked info from field testing claim that it's revolutionary 😳.
I wonder as well. Hope much better can AF get. The R5 is amazing and if the new QP is revolutionary pretty soon we as photographers wont have much to do behind the camera for action shots.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Yes 😂. Maybe QPAF is mainly helpful with situations that require phase detection in the other +\-90° orientation than the DPAF is capable of working. I have heard that for example architecture and product photographers have had some problems with DPAF when trying to focus to a horizontal line (or vertical, depending on the camera orientation). I don't think that this is so much of a problem in wildlife photography. But it would be great if QPAF could somehow bring some minor advantages to other areas as well.
Ron For birds in flight I am finding it hard to get focus on the bird. It appears briefly in the viewfinder and the disappears without grabbing hold of the focus. I too am using the R5. What am I doing wrong.
I would have to see what you mean for myself before I could recommend anything to you. Many settings can make a difference and I would have to go through the menu settings on your camera to see what might be keeping the AF from behaving optimally.
I shot birds the same way you did using spot on a 5Dsr. Now I'm finding that I like the zone autofocus because it gives me some control as to which bird it picks up. I filp to the spot when needed. Which are you currently using? This thing almost takes the fun out of trying to get the shot... too easy!
It certainly does make things a lot easier. The way I look at it is, now I can go after even more challenging BIF images. There is always something harder to go after. You still have to be able to find the bird in the frame and pan with it to get the shot. I am now doing things like swallows in flight catching bugs in mid-air, etc. It is a lot of fun and still a very big challenge.
Great info, Ron! I’m excited to get my R5. Is there a way to instantly switch from a slow shutter speed (stationary bird) to a fast shutter speed (flying bird)? I often get a blurred shot when a bird suddenly takes off and I can’t adjust the camera quick enough. Thanks!
I usually play for the take off shot and have my shutter speed high for the perched shots preceding the take off. I hand hold almost exclusively so having a higher SS for perched shots is a good thing anyway. Also, with the higher pixel density of the R5 higher SS can be needed to get tack sharp images unless you are super steady.
I’ve had the R5 paired with the 100-500 and I’ve been having some issues with BIF. It could very well be a user error but I’m getting frustrated with soft images. I keep my ISO under 1000. My shutter speed is up 1/2500 +, and I’m at f7.1-f8. Maybe the birds are too far away or my technique is not great. I’ve gotten sharp images on the R5 before but the last two times I went out, I had 0 keepers. I am new to photography as a whole so maybe it’s just me. If you have any tips or tricks I would greatly appreciate your input.
Trevor, sorry to hear of your frustrations. I too had to get past the learning curve of the R5 and yes there is one. Getting the birds large enough in the frame is important, because even at 45mp if you have to crop way in detail in the bird is going to suffer. This lack of detail can be seen as the image being "soft." If the camera is missing focus, birds very small in the frame and flying can make it tough on an AF system, even one as good as the R5's. However, my biggest find when it comes to getting sharp images with the R5 is technique and shutter speed. You can definitely get sharp BIF shots at 1/2500s, but 1/4000s will get you a higher percentage. I love 1/4000s on the R5. If you are shooting a lot at 1/2500 and lower, paying strict attention to your technique and panning as accurately as possible is necessary to get consistently sharp images due to the pixel density on the sensor on the R5. Of course, having good technique is always a good thing. Not sure all this is much help to you, but...
@@whistlingwingsphotography thank you for the feed back, I’ll test out the faster shutter speeds at 1/4000. One more question if you don’t mind, at the 1/4000 shutter speed, what is the highest you would allow your ISO to reach?
@@TrevRayPhotos I will shoot at ISO 5000. But ultimately it depends on the situation and how much cropping I think I will need to do. If I am in a situation where I am getting the birds big in the frame 5000 works no problem. If I am going to have to crop, then I will try to keep it lower.
I don't think I will get the new super high resolution R camera as it really does not fit my photography given I do birds in flight for the most part. I do not think it will be nearly as fast, but given how technology keep advancing, who really knows until it is announced. Thanks so much for the comment.
I am using R6 and I have problems to focus single point, I have the back AF to animal eye , if there is not obstruction no problem, but to shoot a bird between branches is a pain. How do you fix this problem. I use sony and I may switch to single point and focus right away in the bird, I am missing something with canon R6, please help
I have not used the R6 extensively, but on the R5 I have the AF-ON button set to Eye AF, I have the * button set to Initiate Main AF Method (I almost always have this set to Zone, but could be set to any of the main AF methods), and I have the AF Point Selection button set to Spot AF. If the Eye AF will not pick the bird because of branches I go to Spot AF via the AF Point Selection button and it almost always focuses on the bird.
I totally agree - a huuuuge advance in birds photography .... 21st century tecnology .... little advice ( as I am also a designer ) .... change you old-fashioned typography of your channel name "Whistling Wings Photography" - thats really from last century ;-)
Thanks for making the the subject obvious. I had recognized the situation you describe in one shot I was doing It suddenly occurred to me that I can look through the viewfinder at the bird only and not try to line up the spot and the bird which is what I was used to. Its still not perfect but made all the difference to see that.
I find that Zone is the most relible AF method for acquiring flying birds but it is too often thrown-off by background objects, particularly infuriating because it sometimes averages focus between the subject and background. (That's visible when reviewing photos and the focus indication shows 10 boxes, some on the subject and some in a random location.) Tracking/Eye-af obtains the most reliable in focus performance, but it is often unable to lock on a flying bird. The problem could be solved if Zone could acquire focus and Eye/subject could take over as long as the AF-on button was pressed, regardless of where in the frame the subject drifted. The zone indicators could remian illuminated to help with composition but the af point cold drift outside as long as tracking was active. I have zone programmed to a button and tracking/eye on the front button which allows me to acquire and hand-off to tracking but it could easily be automatic if they refined Zone.
Thanks for the comment. Personally, I am finding the eye detect to be very good at getting lock on with flying birds and static subjects against backgrounds. For me it was experimenting with the tracking sensitivity and accel/decel and refining my technique just a bit. Now it is so good I rarely miss an opportunity with a bird. I have eye detect set to AF-ON back button and sometimes I have to pump it a couple of times to get the AF to grab the bird where I want, but overall the AF is performing magnificently for me.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Maybe there is an issue with my camera. Unless I prefocus with spin of the manual wheel (Glad there is full-time MF now) or by initiating zone first, I rarely get a lock on a moving bird. Once I do, I can track as long as necessary and follow fast moving subjects like a diving osprey with no problem. What slider settings did you find to be the best?
@@Sparisland I have my AF set to Case 2 and I have the sliders set all the way to the left and right for Tracking Sensitivity and Accel/decel, respectively. I am always pre-focusing on where I think I will be picking up a bird in flight All AF systems I have used over the years struggle at least a bit if you try to get focus on a very OOF bird in flight. That is why I have gotten in the habit of always pre-focusing so if nothing else the bird is flying into rather than out of focus.
Greetings Ron from Ron in Colorado. A friend of mine, Stan Tekiela recommended your videos since I have an R5 on its way to me (supposed be here Wed.). It is replacing one of my two Mk5 IV’s. I am a nature, landscape, macro, fine art, and eclectic photograper. I love a diversity of subjects, but birds are my areas of high passion, but at the same time one of frustration, especially since my cataract surgeries. I have just about given up hope of capturing sharp images of birds moving or in flight. Many of the issues you mention pre R5 painfully resonate with me. That is why Stan recommended the R5 and your videos. This is the first one I watched and I am impressed with your level of knowledge and wisdom and their coming so clearly through in your videos. Kudos!! I need to go and look at some more of yours to better understand how to get that initial lock on the Birdseye. Stan recommended customizing one of my buttons to quicky implement switching to birds and eyes. I also read it is better set my shutter button to sans the AF function. I surely have a lot to learn especially since I’m leaving for photographing water birds and moose in upper Colorado in a week. Blessings and thank you!
Love the no nonsense quality of your videos and the great photography. As a photographer since the mid 70’s, I appreciate someone who teaches me new things. Really looking forward to rejoining the Canon camp with the pending arrival today of an R5/100-500. Really looking forward to it as an easy to transport outfit for bird photography.
Wow, thank you!
The great thing about the R5 auto focus animal etc tracking is that it really works for aircraft in flight too, this camera just keeps giving 👍🏻
I noticed that too. Thanks for adding that info for others to see.
I couldn’t agree more Ron my subjects have been drifting round the frame too. Your videos have been brilliant and have helped me get the most from my R5. Thank you. Shame I’m not closer Dave (UK)
Thanks so much , Dave. Sounds like we would have a great time doing some shooting together.
Thanks for your great videos, Ron. I've watched three of them now and each has been instructive. Looking forward to watching them all.
Thanks so much for your comment. Much appreciated.
This is a useful discussion Ron, as have been all of your past videos on the R5. I have only had my R5 for a few weeks and am still learning. I have realized (subconsciously) what you have so nicely elaborated in words. I, too, came from a 1DXii. Now that you have described this I suspect I will be more conscious of what is happening while I am shooting. The rule of 3rds grid, which I find helpful at times, doesn’t bother me so much. I am also learning what is a maximum practical subject distance to shoot. Although the 45 MP help in this regard, the eye-detect AF does not work well beyond a certain range and this has fallen into the mix for me with the R5. Maybe the lesson there is that if eye-detect AF is not working, the subject may be too distant.
I believe you are getting good grasp on what it takes to make great images with the R5. When the bird is too distant for eye detect I go to the old standby of a single AF point. For example, for small in the frame bird compositions. Thanks so much for the comment. Always appreciated.
Love your videos - thanks! Instant fix for this paradigm shift is a Nikon DF-M1 Dot Sight. "When attached to the camera's hot-shoe, it assists you in acquiring distant subjects by acting as a zoomed-out targeting device. Line up the subject in the Dot Sight at a normal field of view to easily track it at extreme magnifications". I use it on my Canon EOS-R5 with RF 100-500. At
Interesting. Thanks for the tip.
Yep, it definitely is a paradigm shift. It definitely take some thinking to find the best way to use the system given that now composition for fast flying birds must be done rapidly as the bird moves through the sky. It certain ways, it is more challenging than before. And that is big fun! Thanks.
Thanks so much for the comment. It is always appreciated.
When I bought the R5 I had no intentions of getting rid of my 1DX2 and 5dsr but it didn't take long to know I never wanted to shoot wildlife without animal eye AF again. I do a lot less cropping now that I'm able to frame it in camera so easy the way I want it.
I'm looking forward to spring this year and seeing how much better my shots and keeper rate will be compared to last spring. It's starting to warm up here in the N.E. and I can't wait.
Thanks for your comment. I am the same. I now have 2 R5s and sold my 1Dx2 and 5D4.
This is great video.
I use grid display (3x3 or 3x3 + diagonals) to track my AF point position
For me the grid is too distracting as it puts lines all over the viewfinder. I would much prefer a very small cross at the very center of the frame or better yet one that could be moved around the frame like you can do with an AF point. I highly doubt Canon will ever do this, but I can always dream.
Well said and I think the same can be said for the R6. There are still times when the eye AF gets frustrating. For example, when I'm tracking ospreys coming out of the water with fish, much of the time my eye AF still wants to grab onto the water and I have to use spot AF till the osprey gets into the air. Still, it's miles ahead of anything else I've ever experienced...it's a real game changer.
Agree. Not sure what Tracking Sensitivity you have set, but I have mine all the way to the negative and if I am on the bird when it hits the water it tends to do a great job of staying on the bird. Just a thought.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I had set it to your recommendation of all the way negative under Case 2. This seems to be more of an issue when the bird is farther away as I'm tracking it inbound so I'm not super concerned as I'm generally not shooting it at that time anyway.
Thanks Ron, I have the R6 and thought it was just me getting BIF in the corners of my frame 🤣. I think it has to do with the novelty of the amazing AF system on these cameras; you can’t quite believe it can be so good so you are constantly checking that it does indeed have focus on the eye so you forget about the position of the bird in the frame. I am sure I will get used to it. Great content as always. 👍🏻
Steve, thanks for the comment. It is good to know I am not alone as well. Stay safe and good shooting to you.
Same observation on my R6 too. May it he corner right, left bottom or top the camera just follow along :). I just want to make sure the subject is inside the frame lol. AF Eye detection is superb, it changes my shooting on bird in flight. Like with my 1DX I only focus on the center point and keep in the center. Thanks for the Video Ron, keep them coming.
Hey, thanks so much for the comment. Take care.
Great content - love your channel !
It was pretty much the first thing I noticed, the fact I could just concentrate on framing rather than correctly manoeuvring an AF point around. And yes, it really does make the process of taking a photo feel very different, much more controlled.
Thanks so much for your comment. Always appreciated.
You can turn on the viewfinder level to get a pointing reference crosshair.
Thanks for the comment. For me, the level clutters up the VF too much. I like a very clean view of my subjects especially when shooting really fast BIF. So far I find putting he camera in spot meter mode is best for me as it provides a very subtle circle in the center of the frame. Still would be better to have a dedicated reticle as a choice among the grids you can overlay. Cheers
Its a major head shift!! Thanks for explaining it so well
Hi Ron, great video and some great thoughts/views, I agree 100% about the R5/R6 eye detect AF changing the way we shoot birds or wildlife, it's freeing to be able to concentrate on composition rather than trying to get your AF point/area over the subject and hope your camera gets focus and locks on to the subject.
I found the Servo AF on my 1DX II to be really frustrating as it would be
a bit inconsistent at keeping focus locked on to my subject, all that is history as the R6 nails focus every shot consistently, I don't use single shot AF much and I reckon I use Servo eye AF for 99% of my shots as it's that good.
Keep up the great content mate and happy shooting 👍
Thanks so much for your comments and good shooting to you as well.
Can you please do a video on your settings for Bird photography for the R5…..go throught the settings with us
I did such a video early on, but I have changed some setting since then. I will work on an updated video asap.
@@whistlingwingsphotography that would be awesome thank you
I have the same observation. I am now focusing more on framing.
Thanks so much for your comment. Always appreciated.
Good video thanks. Same thing for me. Focus point - Menu Red7 / Focus info display / Take your pick. Cheers!
Thanks for the comment. Always appreciated. I am sure many folks will use the grid display, but for me the grids, especially the one with the diagonal clutters up the VF too much. I like a clean VF when I am shooting, especially birds in flight. A small cross-hairs in the center of the frame would work for me. Again, just me.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Understood and I figured that was your reason. The 3x3 seems fine but I agree, a simple center point would be another nice option.
in OLYMPUS, there is a finder screen option just like what you wanted.
this is in EM! mkIII.
I wonder if they had it in EM1 mkII.
Olympus is so advanced, they thought about this looong time back.
I use grid display (3x3 or 3x3 + diagonals) to keep track of my AF point position
Amazing!! What is your minimum shutter speed to stop motion on a Bird in Flight?
Great video as always! Thank you very much for making these videos. BTW you can use grid 3x3 with diagonal or like me 6x4 to put a center reference on your frame.
Thanks so much for the comment. Yep, the grids are available, but for me they clutter up the VF too much. I would like something much less obtrusive like a very fine cross-hairs in the center of the frame, or, better yet, a cross-hair that could be moved around.
I enjoy all your videos, my friend has a R5 and I send these to him to watch. I myself, use a Sony a9 II.
Thanks for sharing
Very good demonstration.
Thanks so much.
What about using the old DSLR to obtain the focus on a focus point, then recompose? That way you don't have to have the bird in the middle. What am I missing?
Idea with the eye detect with tracking in the new mirrorless R5 and other mirrorless cameras with animal eye detect with tracking is the AF "point" automatically moves around the frame following the eye of the bird/animal, so you can actively compose and recompose the shot just by moving the bird around in the frame while you are actively shooting. There is no need to move the single AF point around the frame manually or get focus on the bird using a centered AF point and then recomposing before you start shooting. Moreover, if a bird like a reddish egret is jumping all over the frame raising and lowering it head in a spit second the AF point automatically keeps focus on the eye so you can concentrate on keep the bird composed in the frame were you want it. This allows for a wholly different way of shooting than was available before.
Ron thanks for all the videos, i have the R5 and love it I use the star on back of camera for the eye detect my question is once the camera detects the eye do u keep holding down the button or you can release it and it stayed on subj at all times?
You need to keep holding the button down for it to keep focusing. If you have eye detect set to auto then the focus indicator will find the eye but for actual focus to be achieved you need to hold the button.
With this Eye AF, back button focusing is no longer needed right? The whole point of it is just moot now.
Have to agree that the Animal eye AF is pretty special. it would be great to know what your AF settings are for acceleration, deceleration etc. do you use the case settings or just adjust then and save them as a setting?
Use use Case 2 but I have the Tracking Sensitivity set all the way to the left (most negative) and the Accel/Decel set all the way to the Right (most positive). It seems to work best this way for my style of shooting. Thanks so much for the comments.
Thanks, I had on similar but not exactly the same settings so I’ll change and try again, once I am allowed to get out when lockdown eases in the uk. 😊
Whoops, more less right. Red7 / Shooting info disp / Grid display / Take your pick. Thanks again Ron. 👍
OK, Ron, just to make sure I've got this thing straight. Both the R5 AND the R6 have this animal eye detect? In other words, the Scot in me says, "You don't have to spend the extra bucks for the R5 - right laddie?". It seems that most of y'all who have mirrorless have the R5 and sort of eschew the R6.
I have two aging 7D Mark II's and am thinking about the day that they come to the limit of their shutter activation lives. Before these two R-types came along I was going to either ship my cameras off to Canon or wherever you send them for new shutters, OR I was going to up-grade my dSLR Canon(s) to something full-frame. But now... now I am sort of saying, "Gee why not just go ahead, when the time comes, and go mirrorless?" (and hopefully not have to spend the big bucks on the R5, as my needs are pretty modest).
The best camera for you moving forward can only be assessed by you yourself. However, I will take this opportunity to mention a few things. First, you have been shooting a cropped sensor body for a long time it seems. The 7DII has a 20MP sensor. The R6 also has a 20MP sensor but it is full frame. That cropped sensor 20MP will put a lot more pixels on your subject then the 20MP full frame will at the same focal length. That can be a big and unwelcomed change when switching to full frame. When I switched from cropped to full frame many years ago a found I had to go from a 500mm lens to a 600mm lens plus a 1.4x TC many times to get the bird as big in the frame and thus have the pixels on the bird that I wanted to get the detail in the bird I wanted. The R5 has 45MP on a full frame sensor, so you can make that switch and still maintain a similar amount of detail on your subject without as big a change in needing to get your subject closer, or use more focal length. Just something to ponder. Thanks for the comment.
Been shooting 7D added 7D MKII wanted to jump to mirrorless went to R5 for full frame & 45mp.
Thanks to Ron’s videos I feel I’ve up my pic taking game especially BIF. Reassigned buttons on R5 and now using the 7Ds is an effort. Now thinking a second R 5 body to keep thing consistent for this old body and mind.
Hi Ron many thanks for a most informative video on tracking and eye detection of birds. Just 1 question when you use eye detection and press the back button to focus the eye do you then release the button or keep it pressed when taking images of the birds or do you just release the back button while taking your pictures? kind regards Mike
Mike, you need to keep the button pressed as you are shooting. If you release the button the camera will stop focusing and if the bird or you moves closer or further away then the bird will go out of focus. So, keep the button pressed to keep the camera servo focusing on the bird, in this case the bird's eye. Cheers.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Many thanks Ron for your prompt and valuable advice. I now look forward to going out in the field and putting your advice into practice. Thanks again Mike 👍
Ron - First thank you for all the great and informative videos. Second I have set up my R5 as you described in your videos and am having trouble keeping the birds locked on. It mainly happens when the bird goes from a clear sky down towards the water. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated..
Try setting your Tracking Sensitivity all the way to the negative size and the Accel/decel all the way to the positive side (I do this under Case 2 AF). Also, there are other factors that can make a large difference such as which AF method you are using and under what conditions. Too many to really track down what would improve this for you. If you can provide more details on how you actually shoot such as AF method that is loosing lock, distance to subject, size of subject in the frame, lens you are using when this happens, I may be able to help further. Cheers,
Great video! I have a question. If there are multiple birds in frame, how can we control which bird eye to detect?
It can be difficult. What I do is use spot AF to get initial AF on the bird I want and then switch to eye tracking. I do this by assigning the 3 back buttons on the R5 to 3 different AF methods. One of the buttons is dedicated to Spot AF. The other two to eye tracking and general AF method such as Zone.
So helpful, now can you talk about doing video in R5? 😃
I will work on a video about video. Thanks for the comment.
Could i please ask a (stupid, i am afraid..) question? When you say that for the spot autofocus you need to simultaneously use the zone AF button, is that first zone, and then spot; or really these buttons at the same time (for which you would need two fingers..)??
thank you!
Here is the way I am now setting up my Back Buttons for AF. No need to press two button at the same time to use Spot AF when set up this way. The images I reference in my explanation below can be viewed here: ronaldbielefeld.smugmug.com/R5-menu-settings-for-AF-button-set-up/
Iin your AF1 menu set things up as I have them in the first attached image (IMG_3741). Then, in the Customize Buttons set the Shutter butt. Half-press to Metering Start only (IMG_3742). Also in the Customize Buttons menu set the * button to Metering and AF Start (IMG_3743). Then set your main AF method to Zone using whatever method you have set up for changing your main AF method. For the AF-ON button, again in the Customize Buttons menu, set it to Eye Detection AF (IMG_3742). For the AF Point Selection Button (the button right of the * button), again in the Customize Buttons menu, set it to Register/recall shooting func. (IMG_3743). When you are in the Register /recall Shooting func submenu hit the INFO button on the bottom left of the screen to go another menu deeper. In the menu that comes up you will be able to check or uncheck boxes next to several shooting functions (see IMG_3744). Uncheck all of them except AF Method, AF Operation, Tracking Sensitivity, and Accel./decel. Tracking. You want those checked (see attached image 3744). Then, while still in the Register/recall Shooting Function menu, select the AF Method and set it to “Spot.” (see IMG_3745) Under AF Operation make sure it is set to ON. Set the Tracking Sensitivity and Accel./Decel. Tracking like I show in the attached image (3744).
Once you are done with all this set up you will have the AF-ON button set to Eye Detect, the * button set to Zone, and the AF Point Selection Button set to Spot. So, if you want spot AF all you have to do is press the back AF Point Selection Button and you get just the center AF point to focus with. No squares grabbing some other area of the frame. Of course, you can change the AF method that the * button initiates just by choosing a different main AF Method such as expanded horizontal or vertical zone, single AF point, single AF point with surround points, etc. Give this set up a try. I think you will like it.
Thank you for the video. I understand that Canon are listening to customers more than ever and are more inclined to add updates via firmware (as with v1.3 released today) therefore please report to Canon and request the feature (best come from you as you have the expertise). Thanks again :-)
Thanks so much for the comment. I will pass along my suggestions to Canon best I can. Maybe someday they will add one of my suggestions
Ron, thanks for all your videos I’m learning to up my photography game and get more from my equipment and self. Following your lead I try to anticipate bird / wildlife actions. What is your go to shutter speed for large bird and small launch to flight?
If the light allows I like 1/4000s. This is based on a lot of shooting of birds coming into perches while not panning. Many folks who have shot at my kingfisher perch in the winter do not pan with the incoming bird, but instead pre-focus on the perch and shoot a burst as the bird comes in. 1/4000s will stop the bird and produce a sharp image. Thus, if you are anticipating a take off and are a bit behind in your reaction, 1/4000s of a second will give you a good fudge factor to still get a sharp image. 1/4000s is also a great SS to stop all wing movement when you are panning with the bird on medium to larger birds. Also, if water is involved 1/4000s will stop the water drops and make them look like crystal in most instances. Of course you can shoot BIF at much slower shutter speeds and get the bird's body and eye sharp, it just depends on the bird and how good you are at accurately panning with the bird. I hope this helps.
Ron, there's one problem with both the R5 and R6 and I wonder if you have noticed it. In some situations some photographers are finding that the Eye-AF will lose the subject and begin to focus on something else, like the weeds, or grasses, or a twig, and when that happens it will not re-acquire its focus on the subject, ever. The photographers say they have to use manual focus or auto focus on the ground in the same plane as the subject. Even if they have set up dual back buttons auto focus, one for normal auto focus and the second one for animal Eye-AF, when they have this problem in Eye-AF and switch to normal auto focus the camera still will not let go of whatever it has decided to set its focus on! Any observations on this? These guys have tried everything! It's simply something that they have concluded is a feature of mirrorless cameras as this stage in their technology (or I guess at least Canon's; don't have any reports of this with Nikons, Sony, et al.)
The Sony a9II does the same thing. All AF systems I have used will do this. However, I have found a solution that works for me almost all the time with the R5. In the few instances when the AF grabs something and will not let go of it, I use Spot AF and put it on the subject and it almost always focuses on the subject I want immediately. Every once in a while I have to "pump" the back button I have set to Spot focus to get it to switch. My back button AF set up is as follows: AF-ON button set to Eye Detection, the * button set to Zone, and the AF Point Selection button set to Spot. If what you describe happens I just quickly press the AF Point Selection Button and I get focus where I want it, and then go back to Eye Detection if appropriate. Overall, I do not think this is a problem with the AF systems of mirrorless cameras, we are just asking too much of the AF systems to always find the eye even when the "eye" is way out of focus when we ask the camera to find it. Overall, for me, these AI driven AF systems have been spectacularly good. Thanks for the comment.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks for your reply. I will have to study what you said as I do not know these systems well enough to follow you exactly. I will share with my photographer friend. Thanks Ron!
Can you show the way you have your menus setup?
Sure, please take a look at this video and let me know if you have any questions. I have made a few change since I made the video but for the most part things are set the same. Link to video: th-cam.com/video/6cbaoPeLbPI/w-d-xo.html
This is useful info, thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍🙂
Thanks so much for your comment. It is my pleasure/
Is this feature there in dx1 mark 3?
Great info as always, thanks! I'm wondering how amazing the upcoming Canon Quad Pixel AF system is, because rumours / leaked info from field testing claim that it's revolutionary 😳.
I wonder as well. Hope much better can AF get. The R5 is amazing and if the new QP is revolutionary pretty soon we as photographers wont have much to do behind the camera for action shots.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Yes 😂. Maybe QPAF is mainly helpful with situations that require phase detection in the other
+\-90° orientation than the DPAF is capable of working. I have heard that for example architecture and product photographers have had some problems with DPAF when trying to focus to a horizontal line (or vertical, depending on the camera orientation).
I don't think that this is so much of a problem in wildlife photography. But it would be great if QPAF could somehow bring some minor advantages to other areas as well.
What focus settings do you use for video?
Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/v5g3GP-XrBU/w-d-xo.html
Ron
For birds in flight I am finding it hard to get focus on the bird. It appears briefly in the viewfinder and the disappears without grabbing hold of the focus. I too am using the R5. What am I doing wrong.
I would have to see what you mean for myself before I could recommend anything to you. Many settings can make a difference and I would have to go through the menu settings on your camera to see what might be keeping the AF from behaving optimally.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Thanks for a prompt reply Ron. I am going to try the eye detect and tracking tomorrow
I shot birds the same way you did using spot on a 5Dsr. Now I'm finding that I like the zone autofocus because it gives me some control as to which bird it picks up. I filp to the spot when needed. Which are you currently using? This thing almost takes the fun out of trying to get the shot... too easy!
Yeah that's what takes a bit of getting used to, the fact that a lot of the challenge is gone.
It certainly does make things a lot easier. The way I look at it is, now I can go after even more challenging BIF images. There is always something harder to go after. You still have to be able to find the bird in the frame and pan with it to get the shot. I am now doing things like swallows in flight catching bugs in mid-air, etc. It is a lot of fun and still a very big challenge.
Great info, Ron! I’m excited to get my R5. Is there a way to instantly switch from a slow shutter speed (stationary bird) to a fast shutter speed (flying bird)? I often get a blurred shot when a bird suddenly takes off and I can’t adjust the camera quick enough. Thanks!
I usually play for the take off shot and have my shutter speed high for the perched shots preceding the take off. I hand hold almost exclusively so having a higher SS for perched shots is a good thing anyway. Also, with the higher pixel density of the R5 higher SS can be needed to get tack sharp images unless you are super steady.
If eye detect doesn’t pick up the birds eye what is your preference of autofocus?... single point as you showed in the video?
Yep. If I can't get the eye with the Eye detect I go with Spot AF if the bird is perched, Zone if the bird is in flight.
I’ve had the R5 paired with the 100-500 and I’ve been having some issues with BIF. It could very well be a user error but I’m getting frustrated with soft images. I keep my ISO under 1000. My shutter speed is up 1/2500 +, and I’m at f7.1-f8.
Maybe the birds are too far away or my technique is not great. I’ve gotten sharp images on the R5 before but the last two times I went out, I had 0 keepers. I am new to photography as a whole so maybe it’s just me. If you have any tips or tricks I would greatly appreciate your input.
Trevor, sorry to hear of your frustrations. I too had to get past the learning curve of the R5 and yes there is one. Getting the birds large enough in the frame is important, because even at 45mp if you have to crop way in detail in the bird is going to suffer. This lack of detail can be seen as the image being "soft." If the camera is missing focus, birds very small in the frame and flying can make it tough on an AF system, even one as good as the R5's. However, my biggest find when it comes to getting sharp images with the R5 is technique and shutter speed. You can definitely get sharp BIF shots at 1/2500s, but 1/4000s will get you a higher percentage. I love 1/4000s on the R5. If you are shooting a lot at 1/2500 and lower, paying strict attention to your technique and panning as accurately as possible is necessary to get consistently sharp images due to the pixel density on the sensor on the R5. Of course, having good technique is always a good thing. Not sure all this is much help to you, but...
@@whistlingwingsphotography thank you for the feed back, I’ll test out the faster shutter speeds at 1/4000.
One more question if you don’t mind, at the 1/4000 shutter speed, what is the highest you would allow your ISO to reach?
@@TrevRayPhotos I will shoot at ISO 5000. But ultimately it depends on the situation and how much cropping I think I will need to do. If I am in a situation where I am getting the birds big in the frame 5000 works no problem. If I am going to have to crop, then I will try to keep it lower.
@@whistlingwingsphotography ok great thank you. Much appreciation 🙌🏻
Ron, can't you just use one of your grid overlays as a background point of reference for your composition ???
For me all the grid overlays clutter up the VF too much. I am sure for others the grids will work fine.
Will we get flexi zone with R5 update anytime ?
I would not hold my breath. I have been wanting a fake shutter noise option and flexible zones and still no go. I have not heard anything either.
@@whistlingwingsphotography may have to wait for R5 mkii
Are you getting the new canon R5S 85 size file? do you think it will be as fast as R5? I will consider update my R6
I don't think I will get the new super high resolution R camera as it really does not fit my photography given I do birds in flight for the most part. I do not think it will be nearly as fast, but given how technology keep advancing, who really knows until it is announced. Thanks so much for the comment.
@@whistlingwingsphotography th-cam.com/video/WIQZwz3MnwY/w-d-xo.html It is 20FPS I will use aspc and with prime (some day) 300 maybe enough for BIF
So the eye AF is autopilot for autofocus. Great!
Kind of, yes. Thanks for the comment.
I am using R6 and I have problems to focus single point, I have the back AF to animal eye , if there is not obstruction no problem, but to shoot a bird between branches is a pain. How do you fix this problem. I use sony and I may switch to single point and focus right away in the bird, I am missing something with canon R6, please help
I have not used the R6 extensively, but on the R5 I have the AF-ON button set to Eye AF, I have the * button set to Initiate Main AF Method (I almost always have this set to Zone, but could be set to any of the main AF methods), and I have the AF Point Selection button set to Spot AF. If the Eye AF will not pick the bird because of branches I go to Spot AF via the AF Point Selection button and it almost always focuses on the bird.
@@whistlingwingsphotography thank you I will try tomorrow. *spot
I’ve reassigned the the depth of field button to single center point. It allows me to so to speak home myself and pick up birds in the twigs.
I totally agree - a huuuuge advance in birds photography .... 21st century tecnology .... little advice ( as I am also a designer ) .... change you old-fashioned typography of your channel name "Whistling Wings Photography" - thats really from last century ;-)
Did you upgrade the firmware? New one
Yep, all ready done. For the 100-500 too.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I heard issues with r6 after update 1.3 with video aww. It is fixed 1.3.1
Thanks for making the the subject obvious. I had recognized the situation you describe in one shot I was doing It suddenly occurred to me that I can look through the viewfinder at the bird only and not try to line up the spot and the bird which is what I was used to. Its still not perfect but made all the difference to see that.
Thanks so much for your comment.
It’s like military hardware for photography. I’m not looking forward to when the robots take over.
I totally agree. Taking all the fun and challenge out of what used to be very difficult.
Too much repetition in this video…you could have edited this down to 5 minutes and still get your point across
I find that Zone is the most relible AF method for acquiring flying birds but it is too often thrown-off by background objects, particularly infuriating because it sometimes averages focus between the subject and background. (That's visible when reviewing photos and the focus indication shows 10 boxes, some on the subject and some in a random location.) Tracking/Eye-af obtains the most reliable in focus performance, but it is often unable to lock on a flying bird. The problem could be solved if Zone could acquire focus and Eye/subject could take over as long as the AF-on button was pressed, regardless of where in the frame the subject drifted. The zone indicators could remian illuminated to help with composition but the af point cold drift outside as long as tracking was active. I have zone programmed to a button and tracking/eye on the front button which allows me to acquire and hand-off to tracking but it could easily be automatic if they refined Zone.
Thanks for the comment. Personally, I am finding the eye detect to be very good at getting lock on with flying birds and static subjects against backgrounds. For me it was experimenting with the tracking sensitivity and accel/decel and refining my technique just a bit. Now it is so good I rarely miss an opportunity with a bird. I have eye detect set to AF-ON back button and sometimes I have to pump it a couple of times to get the AF to grab the bird where I want, but overall the AF is performing magnificently for me.
@@whistlingwingsphotography Maybe there is an issue with my camera. Unless I prefocus with spin of the manual wheel (Glad there is full-time MF now) or by initiating zone first, I rarely get a lock on a moving bird. Once I do, I can track as long as necessary and follow fast moving subjects like a diving osprey with no problem. What slider settings did you find to be the best?
@@Sparisland I have my AF set to Case 2 and I have the sliders set all the way to the left and right for Tracking Sensitivity and Accel/decel, respectively. I am always pre-focusing on where I think I will be picking up a bird in flight All AF systems I have used over the years struggle at least a bit if you try to get focus on a very OOF bird in flight. That is why I have gotten in the habit of always pre-focusing so if nothing else the bird is flying into rather than out of focus.