Hi Jan - happy to have your video as I'm shooting on the R7 as well. A note on the topic of "saving battery": I have configured the Mf-n button with the stand by function. For example, when I'm walking around, I can easily put the camera into sleep mode, which saves battery, and quickly wake it up again with a simple click on the shutter
Jan, Just wanted to let you know that these recommendations also work on the R10. I have had the R10 for 18 months and have been searching for solutions to get the most out of the autofocus system with no success. It was better than the Z50 I came from, but not as good as we were led to believe it could be. None of the TH-cam channels that have done videos on the R10 setup for bird photography have suggested the settings you point to here. I've tried experimenting with all the case settings and the settings associated with them with unsatisfactory results. Many of the settings you suggest I had set on my camera, but the one that really made the difference is setting Case 1 with both tracking sensitivity and Accel./decel tracking settings to minus 2. A major improvement in tracking birds in flight. Also, setting up dual back button autofocus is essential for when the camera fails to lock on to your subject. Thanks for your work and the work of your mate Duade Paton for helping people figure out how to take better photographs.
Great info. Pretty similar to how I have my R7 setup. I think the only difference is how I set the accel/decel in the AF case. One feature of the R7 which I think is immensely powerful is the shooting settings register/recall function. I map that to the DOF button on the front. My C1 settings are for 'normal' wildlife but if something faster moving catches my eye, the shooting recall immediately jumps me to a preset of higher shutter speed, wide open aperture, auto ISO, and full area AF with subject detect. It gives me a greater chance of catching the shot than I would if I had to spin some dials. It is only operational while the button is pressed, but it also means you just drop back to whatever settings you had previously when you release it.
One thing I might suggest for those shooting in Electronic first curtain is to assign the front DOF button to silent shutter function which will be full electronic shutter until you press it again to turn it off. Its a fast way to switch between the two.
Be warned! Using Electronic First Curtain can result in what Canon calls ‘defocussed image areas being incomplete when using fast shutter speeds -see the Manual for details. I changed to Mirrorless and the background artefacts were far less noticeable, which is I assume, what they mean.
At 5.45 you talk about the noticeable blackout between frames in the viewfinder when using EFCS. You can fix this by setting High Speed Display to On (red menu 8). This turns on live view between each shot in continuous mode so that the display is essentially continuous (it flickers slightly). Note that it only works with certain settings (limited to the H mode, not the H+ mode, shutter speeds above 1/30s and apertures larger than f/11).
Thank you ! Thank you Jan .You and Duade have helped me overcome my frustrations with my R7. I now look forward to shooting because I have methods I can use for making adjustments. Thanks again I am grateful.
Thanks for this Jan. Somedays I want to trash my R7 other days I want to kiss it ! Hopefully this info will improve my keeper rate. BTW I am the guy who bought your Masterclass and accidently deleted the video portion . I did send an e mail to your attention at Aviscapes but have had no reply as of yet . Thanks for all the great work you do , Greg Jackson
I just came across this video - very nice for the R7 I just received, thank you - there is one thing I DO want to mention - with auto-update-settings on the custom modes. If auto-update is off, and you have the camera set to auto-power-off quickly - every time it powers down, it will revert any changes you've made in the custom mode you're in. I use the custom settings for a quick "oh crap I need to grab that" set of settings - and while I may modify them for the moment, I want to return to that baseline next time I use the custom mode, so I keep auto-update off. But, that means that rather than auto-power-off, I shut off my display quickly, but have auto power off set to 10 minutes or more. That way I don't get a surprise reset on my custom mode if I stop shooting for a minute or so.
@@jan_wegener hey you are welcome. I like how you explained the settings as you went you along thru the menus. I made the star btn my eye detection, and af-on button my metering and bb focus. Kinda used to the setup.
I officially now own the R7 and the 800mm f11. I'm super chuffed with my choice. It is, of course, raining here in Africa today so I haven't gone outside much but can't wait to get started. Decided to spend my rainy evening inside and rewatch this video to set up my new camera!! Thank you for all the awesome content. Between you and Duade, you guys really have made this new journey of bird photography very exciting.
Two years ago I bought the Canon R7 with 100-500mm zoom based on your presentation. Your recommendation has been a win. The last half of this video I find having to frequently freeze the video and check/adjust settings. Would be good to see a listing of all settings that can be printed... so in event in a remote area there is a hard copy of settings used to recover/sanity check.
I’ve just been checking out my R7 learning how use it effectively and jan wegener I’ve learnt a lot re settings so definitely want to watch more of your videos to get the most out of my R7 you are amazing for sure.😊
Just set up my AF buttons the way you suggest. I set ISO with the ring around the Joystick by the eyepiece, shutter speed with the main dial, and use the Control Ring to put an f/stop ring back on the lens, where it was in the pre-EOS days! With the RGB histogram and a viewfinder that simulates what your exposure looks like, who needs auto-exposure?
Great vid! I Switched to this same dual back button focus setup a while ago and did not look back! Still tweaked a few settings after watching this vid though, thanks! :D Imo it's also worth mentioning that Duade Paton made a great vid about his R7 focus issues. He concluded/theorized that it's likely the slower sensor readout speed that results in more out of focus shots in H+ as oppossed to H. For the power settings I went a different route. I don't want the camera to go into standby mode when I walk around, because the wake-up (when there's sudden action) is too slow. Instead I have the screen dim and turn off very quickly, I mostly only use the black settings screen mode anyway. The EVF is on auto switch so that it's only on when you take aim through the EVF. That way the evf off setting can be set to "never" and is basically irrelevant. Then you can set the standby mode to half an hour - or "never", if you're brave - and you'll never have wake-up delay with minimal battery drain. This is the closest thing I could get to ye olde DSLR wake-up, which was always instant 😢
Hi Jan, good idea to make this type of video for the R7 users like my colleague. 👍 As I don't have the R7 myself I'm not sure these next settings (from R5/6) do exist on the R7, but when yes, they're having a big impact as well: * Continuous AF: when enabled the camera keeps focusing even without touching buttons while walking around and this is a great way to drain the battery as soon as possible. So we shall disable this option ;-) * Lens drive when AF impossible: best is to enable this one, otherwise the camera may just give up attempting to focus
100% agree. I was having focus issues. I saw a video suggesting turning on Lens Drive when AF is Impossible. Game changer!!! Thanks for sharing this for others to see.
hi Jan, when you are tracking the bird at 18:24 i notice you let go of the AF-ON button which we set for eye tracking, your subject tracking box stays on the target, when i let go, the box disappears immediately. Am i missing something?
Jan, thank you so much for sharing this. It's exactly what I needed to know for my R7. I had been thinking of selling it but overall, it's a great camera. Since purchasing it in January of 2023, I've managed some incredible bird shots, including some of the tiny and elusive brown creeper in Montreal, Canada. As many other owners of the R7, I've had my share of focus issues. Hopefully this video will help solve the problem. Many thanks for your work and sharing your knowledge. Cheers from Canada!
thanks for this great guide. I just received my r7 and had a great time following along. I cant believe all the settings available in this camera. I feel like I'm off to a great start here.
Jan, I don’t know if you have noticed, but when you are programming the back button AF options there is another sub menu accessed by pressing the info button. It is very easy in there to have the wrong options set as they can override may things, such as case setting etc. They are also quite confusing in the configuration. You have to tick any option you wan for it to be active for instance, but you can also adjust some of the settings on the right part such as the aforementioned case setup. Well worth looking at as I have seen a number of users get frustrated after they have accidentally or unknowingly set options in there and have had AF issues as a result. I have detailed this in a mini setup guide I created last year, happy to share a link if anyone wants.
When you compare price to value, there simply isn't a better camera than the EOS R7 anywhere in the market. The AF and exposure technology on this (and all the Canon mid-tier cameras) is incredible. There's no way the camera on a smart phone could ever capture the range of imagery these machines are capable of.
Hi Jan I listened to you and Duade, I am fully aware of the limitations. I am a Nikon shooter landscape new to action wildlife. I can really afford a Z8 or Z9. I got a cheap second hand EOS 7D and loved IT FIR THE FPS got me away from not being Nikon centric, in terms of bang for buck r7 and rf 100-400 mm and apsc is a no brainer I can't get the autofocus performance in Nikon for that price looked at z50 no ibis etc. No is /VR in Z lenses, Sold my nikon 200-500 zoom, which I get great static shots from which has VR to fund a date with Canon R system. All in all the R7 is the way for now. Thanks for the setup tutorial. What I have learnt they is no perfect system unless you have the bucks for top end Nikon Canon and Sony. But watching you and Duade use it I am going to have a crack. Hopefully, eye auto focus will get me more keepers.
And thanks for that tutorial. I basically had it set like that thanks to your previous guidelines, but still wanted to make some tweaks here and there...
So I subscribe to your channel, and usually watch each of your vids within hours of you posting them. Then, this morning I was like, how could I possibly have missed this video ?! I have two R7’s and constantly trying to dial them into perfection 🙂 Answer: Because I was in the middle of a 4500 mile photography road trip 🙂 Best answer, right 😀 Anyway, I just sat down with R7 #1, and went all the way through your list of settings and made several changes. I had originally done this with a video from another TH-cam photographer who I’m sure you know {excellent photographer too} but he does mostly BIF stuff, and not as much beautiful perched birds as you, which is what I lean towards. So I’m anxious to see if these settings work even better for me 🙂 TYSM 🙂
@@-DawnZero Excellent 🙂 I think I'm still using most of these settings in the presets of both of my R7's. I might have changed a couple little cobs cute things, but generally speaking, I still direct folks who just got an R7 to this video 🙂👍
Thank you for this guide. It made perfect sense. I decided not to autoupdate the presets, since i f..ed it up and got a little lost reestablishing the org setup. Now i'm looking forward to spring with R7+Tamron 150-600 combination
Thanks, Jan. Really informative and useful. I made two or three tweaks to my usual settings and have achieved better results. The biggest tweak was 'retract lens' disable. Wow! I wish I knew about this when I first set up my R7!
Thank you so much, Jan. I've owned my R7 since June 2022. I haven't been too pleased with it but also haven't used it much. I defer to my R5 99% of the time. I need to give the R7 another chance. I'm going to try your settings and see how I do. I really want to like this camera, I do, but so far I've been kind of disappointed. The fall and winter ducks will be arriving soon, as well as Short-eared Owls, I like the reach with the R7 that I'll need. I'm going to read through the comments for opinions and points from other photographers.
I don’t blame you really when you have the R5 as the main. I own an R7 and it’s fine for my needs but when I hired the R5, that was a monster. The mode dial and hybrid setup makes much more sense. It’s a pity it’s for Canon premium bodies only. Also, the R7 is a bit cramped and not really a true 7D line successor. I get why they limited the buffer. I badly needed a battery grip. You would probably use the R6II more as it’s more natural in terms of ergonomics and layout
@mvp_kryptonite I actually had an R6 for a year before I traded that in for the R5. I'm super happy with my R5. The APS-C sensor of the R7 was attractive to me for when I'm at a wildlife refuge where everything is always so far off. I previously had the 90D which was an okay camera as well. Overall, I'm so happy I went mirrorless in March 2021 for the AF animal eye tracking. What a game changer.
I’m in the same boat as you, I own both the R5 and R7 but rarely use the R7 at all, so will probably end up trading in for another R5 or hold on till the R5ii.
The R7 looks like a good camera to grow in. I think I will get this as my travel companion. The downside is that they are not allowing third party brands to produce autofocus lenses. It seems like cannons don't want people to save money on Sigma and tamron etc.
I just got the R7 and they do not allow my old 3rd party batteries either. Thank god Canon does not make SD Cards (yet). They would charge 10 per Megabyte.
That was great thanks Jan. I also set up te left button to activate shooting mode selection and the Up button as you did for ISO, but I usually use AUTO ISO
Great video!! Keep on going with these very useful information. Thanks. A video aboit using the RF 100-500 objective with the R7 is very welcome :) special about Stabilizer Mode etc. (BIF, sitting birds, etc.)
The biggest problem with RAW burst pre burst is that is works only with electronic shutter so you get all the wobbles from rolling shutter exactly when you expect the fastest action... :(
Thanks for persisting with the r7. My set up is largely the same as your recommendation. I am shooting mainly in fav mode with auto iso set to a minimum 400, fv mode provides the quickest exposure compensation function. Have also customised the dof button as emergency bif mode as there is no third button on the back for triple back button focus, I am currently using the old very sharp 400 5.6 with 1.4 ex, image quality very good but can only get 10 fps, however the low frame rate improves sticking of the auto focus and eliminates rolling shutter. I-think canon marketing has lost the plot, key selling points r3 level auto focus and 30 fps which won’t work with the slow sensor, not to mention the unusable mechanical shutter, unethical at best. Canon could have produced an iconic aspc for wildlife and sport, suspect they did not want one competing with high end full frame. This may be an error, for 6-7 hundred more dollars you can get an om1 with professional build, industry leading weather sealing and quality fast sensor. For all its faults the r7 is still the best aspc available.
Hi Jan, thanks for all the videos you put together; I learn loads from you. I do have a question for you, pertaining to this video. I set up my R7 using this video when it first came out, and went through it again today, as a refresher and to clean up settings. I have set up pretty much all of my settings as you do in the video, the only addition being that I defined C1 for Animals as the subject, C2 for People and C3 as None. My question is as follows. I have my subject set to None and am using the STAR button to focus, which is using the spot meter, as you prescribe. However, if I put the focusing square directly on a bright orange square on my black camera bag, the viewfinder shows the blue focusing squares seeking out other subjects in the viewfinder. When I look at the captured image, it will show the red focusing point exactly where I placed it, but in reality, the content that is in focus is the area that the blue squares were dancing over. I have been noticing this for some time, and it confuses me as to what is going on. If I enable the touch focus and select that same tag with my finger on the back of the camera, it correctly nails focus. In all testing, I have the focus zone set to the middle of the viewfinder, and I am ensuring I put that on my little orange tag, not worried about composition for my testing. I very much want to use the STAR button to pre-focus, as you suggest in your video, but if the focus is not 100% tied to that zone, it defeats the purpose. I don't know if there is a setting for this, or if it is normal behavior. Any ideas for me? I should also note that if I move the focus point off of center and then focus with the STAR button, it works as planned. Thanks so much for all you do. Your videos are clear, well thought out and well presented. I look forward to seeing new content from you each week.
Thanks Jan, very helpful. I made all the changes you suggested. However, this morning when I went to try it out, I found that the lag time between half-pressing the shutter button and seeing an image in the EV was significantly longer than previously. I found it was due to changing the tracking sensitivity and accel./decel. tracking to -2. Once I restored these to 0, the lag from half-pressing the shutter to seeing an image was much less.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I have just changed from a Canon 7D2, which I've loved for 8 years, to an R7. I have had two difficulties so far. 1. I hate the EVF and desperately miss the bright OVF of the 7D2. 2. Related to that, I have very low success rate with flying birds. I have a hard time getting them into the frame and then acquiring focus. This with the Canon RF 100-400 f/6.3-8 IS.
Try a red dot sight. Olympus and Nikon have had them for around US$100 - $150, but Amazon has some that are good enough for maybe $20. I've had great success following flying birds with that. Note: It is NOT a laser, and the light is invisible from the subject side.
Yes I've had the same problem with the auto focus but shooting at 30 fps really isn't much between shots and I always get a sharp image in the mix. But great settings to minimise it too. 👍
The best feature I am using most often, that was not covered in video: set one of the customisable buttons to "MAGNIFY/REDUCE" (you need magnifying glass icon). This allows you to see in the viewfinder a little piece of your future shot but magnified 5X or 10X to the actual size. 3 reasons you need this: 1. To immediately check whether you focus is ok and adjust if necessary. 2. To focus on the bird hiding between branches inside the bush. Works kind of like single-point AF, but more precise. 3. To use your camera as actual (tele)scope to look at distant small birds and identify them to find rarities you trying to get. The magnify feature does not work well with Servo focus mode. So one of your AF buttons should be in one-shot mode.
Thanks for sharing this information Jan! When I use raw burst mode the action I want is always right before I hit the shutter so I only do a short tap on the shutter. The buffer fills much more quickly since I'm only capturing a couple of shots from after the shutter was pressed and I only have to wait a second or two before I can use it again or use a different mode. I'll get all those pre-capture shots and just a couple from after that.
Hi Jan, thank you , this setup video has steered me on the right path while I'm learning all about this camera but one thing is confusing me : In your PDF guide purple mode , AF 1 AF Operation - "Servo" . On my R7 ,only " One Shot" mode is displayed on the screen and the "SERVO" OPTION is missing completely from the screen , so I am not able to select the " Servo" mode. Why is this a d how do I get the camera to display SERVO option? Please help. Thanks.
Interesting discussion. Since I like shooting at air shows, how would you set-up the R7 for use with the 100-500 and 200-800 lenses? To give an idea, I usually shoot at 1/1250" and f/5.6 at ISO 100-200 here in Greece for fast moving jets, and rarely I use burst shooting (I am continually focusing and framing). For propeller aircraft and helicopters, I usually lock my shutter at 1/500" or so, to blur the propellers.
By the way, I am still trying to wrap my brain around the AF area setup for birds - how can no eye tracking and spot focus area can work with birds in flight and quick-moving birds? I may have only 1-2 seconds before a twitchy bird decides to fly away from a branch, not enough time for moving the AF point around
Hi, nice video! I'm interested on the tracking sensitivity-accel-tecel part of your settings. For you, it is -2/-2. Do you use the same for BIF? And is it mainly for just RF lenses, have you tried it with a sigma/tamron? (Just because Duade has a video where +2/-2 was the best settings, so I found this really interesting, I will most certainly give your settings a try. :)
Jan, how did you manage a complete wardrobe change in a minute from 19:12 to 20:17 ?? 🤣 . For a second I thought i was watching a separate video. Great and informative video as always!
Interestingly, my highest hit rate for BIF involved turning AED off and using a flexible af area. I think the r7 struggles with sensor read and processing speeds. For perched birds AED is fine.
Jan. Thanks. One question when eye detection and subject tracking are separated w different buttons: when (generally) to use eye vs. subject track vs. both with birds in flight?
Hi Jan, loving your videos and extremely grateful to you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. Since publishing this do you/have you used the Fv mode, or do you stay in M? What are your thoughts on the Fv mode?
So when it comes to still subjects such as a bird on a limb would it be better to just spot focus the birds head and not try to continuously focus which may cause the auto focus to possibly jump off here and there as long as your depth of field covers the bird from front to back ? Thanks 😊
A great review, thanks. I use a similar set-up, except the baseline AF mode invokes animal eye-tracking with point AF (small focus point box), via the AF-On button, Instead of using the AE * button for spot focusing, I used the "Register" function to continue the animal eye-tracking with a faster shutter speed (1/2500s) and full-screen view, making it immediately ready for a bird-in-flight, should one pass by. If I understand correctly, you would have to dial up the shutter speed and change the focus point for BIF?
This is an amazing video. It is very helpful. I have had many issues with the Auto focus issues on the R 7. I made many setting changes after watching it and looking forward to using it in my wildlife and surfing photos. Would you have any suggestions on my surfing photos with wave spray and what case to use or any other suggestions? Many times there is wave spray and the camera focuses on the spray instead of the surfer. I don`t know what the remedy is but interested in your opinion. I shoot a lot of deer photos and the camera works well shooting deer. What do you think about contrast issues that go along with the AF Issues shooting birds? I have had issues getting sharp focused photos birds in flight. My son uses a R 5 professionally and suggested I hold the AF button on when shooting anything.
Thank you for this really detailed setup video for the R7 - I must have watched it 5 times over while getting all the settings dialed in just how I want. I've used many of your recommendations with a few tweaks as I more often than not shoot in Fv mode using Auto ISO. I absolutely love your duel back button auto focus, and have used this setup on my Canon R6 for a couple of years. It has made such a difference in my keeper rate, and allowed me to be so much more focused on the Wildlife Moment that is happing in front of me @GrampiansParadise than on driving the camera. The "Electronic full-time MF" I have set to enable on both the R7 and R6 and find it extremely helpful, but on both cameras it only works when in photos modes. Do you know of a way to have it enabled when in Video mode? I would love to occasionally pull focus manually (while recording) when still remaining in auto focus moods. In essence being able to override the auto focus while my finger is moving the focus ring, whether it be on the 100mm to 500mm or 100 to 400mm RF lens. Kind regards Aidan Banfield
reacting from the netherlands. It is very clear thanks very much for your video but where can I find the pdf just to check again. I cannot find it. Thanks very much, Ingrid
Thanks a lot jan!! I can't find a way to control iso, aperture and ss from two wheels. Do u know how to customise one wheel to switch between this 3? Thanks
When using this to shoot AFL I can only use mechanical shutter. Unlike your experience even with electronic 1st curtain I get a distorted, warped football much of the time.
I was seeing the exact same autofocus issues with my R6 and R6II, so I don't think it's specific to the R7 and the relative slowness of the AF system. My second R6II doesn't have the issue so I think it's a bad batch with a manufacture date from end of 2022. I would advise anyone experiencing this to send it back for a replacement.
Thanks, for all your hard work Jan. I recently got the R7 with the 18-150 mm kit lens. I customized all the settings as per your suggestion but when using the AF-ON to BBF the eye tracking blue box disappears when the button is released. Is it still tracking or do I have to keep it pressed to ensure it remains in focus and tracking the subject?
Thank you for great info. Jan. Is there a difference between Electric first curtain shutter mode and electronic shutter mode regarding how the picture is saved to the memory card? Why not only set the fully electronic shutter to 15/s. Is it no rolling shutter at all when set at Elec. 1st-curtain?
Hi If I program the settings you suggest on C1(example) and then change it to camera to TV . Does the camera operate on as original ?? Do the button presets from C1 stay.
Hi Jan. Good topic and coverage! I have an issue with default autofocus distance that was not touched. Do you have opinion on that? I use Canon R7 + 100-500 mm. When I am trying to photo [distant] birds in flight against open blue sky, I would love camera focus to be set at infinite distance. However, if you lose bird out of focus box, the camera starts focus search and after a while AF search stops at the "default" position, which is the closest for my Canon R7. Even with the focus limiter (at 3 meters) camera is completely defocused, and to see bird again I need to get focus back to infinity (focus at horizon) which is annoying, takes time, and the bird might be already gone. My friend with Nicon (D40? + 150-600 mm) does not have this issue: it's "default" focus position is right at the infinity. So if AF missed the bird once, you can continue trying again and again. So my question: is it possible to do anythung about that?) Also would be great to know whether this problem exist on other Canon and non-Canon cameras.
Good afternoon it’s 12:13 PM. Please help me with the homework you do so wonderfully at and all the videos are great. My question is the R7 sensor is not as quality as an R3 or so forth. Please help me learn with homework. Can it take updates to be a more performing sensor or is it locked in the way it is and updates cannot help it. Thank you for your time. Have a great day
I just bought an R7 this week. You've saved me countless hours and doubtless considerable frustration. I can hardly thank you enough.
Thank you! Glad I could help
Well, you COULD buy a cup of coffee for him...
Hi Jan - happy to have your video as I'm shooting on the R7 as well. A note on the topic of "saving battery": I have configured the Mf-n button with the stand by function. For example, when I'm walking around, I can easily put the camera into sleep mode, which saves battery, and quickly wake it up again with a simple click on the shutter
Jan, Just wanted to let you know that these recommendations also work on the R10. I have had the R10 for 18 months and have been searching for solutions to get the most out of the autofocus system with no success. It was better than the Z50 I came from, but not as good as we were led to believe it could be. None of the TH-cam channels that have done videos on the R10 setup for bird photography have suggested the settings you point to here. I've tried experimenting with all the case settings and the settings associated with them with unsatisfactory results. Many of the settings you suggest I had set on my camera, but the one that really made the difference is setting Case 1 with both tracking sensitivity and Accel./decel tracking settings to minus 2. A major improvement in tracking birds in flight. Also, setting up dual back button autofocus is essential for when the camera fails to lock on to your subject. Thanks for your work and the work of your mate Duade Paton for helping people figure out how to take better photographs.
Great info. Pretty similar to how I have my R7 setup. I think the only difference is how I set the accel/decel in the AF case. One feature of the R7 which I think is immensely powerful is the shooting settings register/recall function. I map that to the DOF button on the front. My C1 settings are for 'normal' wildlife but if something faster moving catches my eye, the shooting recall immediately jumps me to a preset of higher shutter speed, wide open aperture, auto ISO, and full area AF with subject detect. It gives me a greater chance of catching the shot than I would if I had to spin some dials. It is only operational while the button is pressed, but it also means you just drop back to whatever settings you had previously when you release it.
humm it woulb be very interested and useful
That sounds very clever.
One thing I might suggest for those shooting in Electronic first curtain is to assign the front DOF button to silent shutter function which will be full electronic shutter until you press it again to turn it off. Its a fast way to switch between the two.
Good Tip!
awesome tip!
Be warned! Using Electronic First Curtain can result in what Canon calls ‘defocussed image areas being incomplete when using fast shutter speeds -see the Manual for details. I changed to Mirrorless and the background artefacts were far less noticeable, which is I assume, what they mean.
".. I changed to mirrorless and ...."??? Do you mean "changed to electronic"? @@nickdagorne1298
At 5.45 you talk about the noticeable blackout between frames in the viewfinder when using EFCS. You can fix this by setting High Speed Display to On (red menu 8). This turns on live view between each shot in continuous mode so that the display is essentially continuous (it flickers slightly). Note that it only works with certain settings (limited to the H mode, not the H+ mode, shutter speeds above 1/30s and apertures larger than f/11).
Thank you ! Thank you Jan .You and Duade have helped me overcome my frustrations with my R7. I now look forward to shooting because I have methods I can use for making adjustments. Thanks again I am grateful.
Awesome!
Thanks for this Jan. Somedays I want to trash my R7 other days I want to kiss it ! Hopefully this info will improve my keeper rate.
BTW I am the guy who bought your Masterclass and accidently deleted the video portion . I did send an e mail to your attention at Aviscapes but have had no reply as of yet .
Thanks for all the great work you do ,
Greg Jackson
I just came across this video - very nice for the R7 I just received, thank you - there is one thing I DO want to mention - with auto-update-settings on the custom modes. If auto-update is off, and you have the camera set to auto-power-off quickly - every time it powers down, it will revert any changes you've made in the custom mode you're in.
I use the custom settings for a quick "oh crap I need to grab that" set of settings - and while I may modify them for the moment, I want to return to that baseline next time I use the custom mode, so I keep auto-update off.
But, that means that rather than auto-power-off, I shut off my display quickly, but have auto power off set to 10 minutes or more. That way I don't get a surprise reset on my custom mode if I stop shooting for a minute or so.
Thanks for the settings and explanation. 😎
Thank you!
@@jan_wegener hey you are welcome. I like how you explained the settings as you went you along thru the menus. I made the star btn my eye detection, and af-on button my metering and bb focus. Kinda used to the setup.
I officially now own the R7 and the 800mm f11. I'm super chuffed with my choice. It is, of course, raining here in Africa today so I haven't gone outside much but can't wait to get started. Decided to spend my rainy evening inside and rewatch this video to set up my new camera!! Thank you for all the awesome content. Between you and Duade, you guys really have made this new journey of bird photography very exciting.
Awesome! Glad we are able to help you out :)
Two years ago I bought the Canon R7 with 100-500mm zoom based on your presentation. Your recommendation has been a win. The last half of this video I find having to frequently freeze the video and check/adjust settings. Would be good to see a listing of all settings that can be printed... so in event in a remote area there is a hard copy of settings used to recover/sanity check.
I have a pdf link n the description
I’ve just been checking out my R7 learning how use it effectively and jan wegener I’ve learnt a lot re settings so definitely want to watch more of your videos to get the most out of my R7 you are amazing for sure.😊
Very very happy to come home, relax with coffee, and see this video!!! Thank you so much for this!
Great top here! :)
Thanks for repeating this so I can benefit from your great experience again. / Per from Denmark
Glad it was helpful!
Just set up my AF buttons the way you suggest. I set ISO with the ring around the Joystick by the eyepiece, shutter speed with the main dial, and use the Control Ring to put an f/stop ring back on the lens, where it was in the pre-EOS days! With the RGB histogram and a viewfinder that simulates what your exposure looks like, who needs auto-exposure?
Great vid! I Switched to this same dual back button focus setup a while ago and did not look back! Still tweaked a few settings after watching this vid though, thanks! :D Imo it's also worth mentioning that Duade Paton made a great vid about his R7 focus issues. He concluded/theorized that it's likely the slower sensor readout speed that results in more out of focus shots in H+ as oppossed to H.
For the power settings I went a different route. I don't want the camera to go into standby mode when I walk around, because the wake-up (when there's sudden action) is too slow. Instead I have the screen dim and turn off very quickly, I mostly only use the black settings screen mode anyway. The EVF is on auto switch so that it's only on when you take aim through the EVF. That way the evf off setting can be set to "never" and is basically irrelevant. Then you can set the standby mode to half an hour - or "never", if you're brave - and you'll never have wake-up delay with minimal battery drain. This is the closest thing I could get to ye olde DSLR wake-up, which was always instant 😢
Thanks so much for all your hard work figuring out what all those settings do. You've saved me a ton of work!
Glad to help!
Thanks!
Thank you!
@@jan_wegener I need to thank you! You are making great videos.
It is just a small token of appreciation.
For sunspots I use my "press and forget" technique ,same as birds in flight widest AF area burst silent mode ,always perfect
Hi Jan, good idea to make this type of video for the R7 users like my colleague. 👍
As I don't have the R7 myself I'm not sure these next settings (from R5/6) do exist on the R7, but when yes, they're having a big impact as well:
* Continuous AF: when enabled the camera keeps focusing even without touching buttons while walking around and this is a great way to drain the battery as soon as possible. So we shall disable this option ;-)
* Lens drive when AF impossible: best is to enable this one, otherwise the camera may just give up attempting to focus
100% agree. I was having focus issues. I saw a video suggesting turning on Lens Drive when AF is Impossible. Game changer!!! Thanks for sharing this for others to see.
Yes, continuous AF is only good for video and very annoying for photo.
Thanks for the tips!
Full agreement, I use almost the same settings from the beginning and have little to no problems. As always, you have brought this well to the point!👍
Excellent tips. Thanks for putting this together. I look forward to trying these settings.
Glad it was helpful!
hi Jan, when you are tracking the bird at 18:24 i notice you let go of the AF-ON button which we set for eye tracking, your subject tracking box stays on the target, when i let go, the box disappears immediately. Am i missing something?
Jan, thank you so much for sharing this. It's exactly what I needed to know for my R7. I had been thinking of selling it but overall, it's a great camera. Since purchasing it in January of 2023, I've managed some incredible bird shots, including some of the tiny and elusive brown creeper in Montreal, Canada. As many other owners of the R7, I've had my share of focus issues. Hopefully this video will help solve the problem. Many thanks for your work and sharing your knowledge. Cheers from Canada!
Amazing and very helpful video Jan. I did all changes you suggest and can't waint to go to the field and test the new settings.
Great to hear!
thanks for this great guide. I just received my r7 and had a great time following along. I cant believe all the settings available in this camera. I feel like I'm off to a great start here.
Great to hear!
Jan, that video is incredibly clear and helpful. Thank you.
You are so welcome!
Jan, I don’t know if you have noticed, but when you are programming the back button AF options there is another sub menu accessed by pressing the info button. It is very easy in there to have the wrong options set as they can override may things, such as case setting etc. They are also quite confusing in the configuration. You have to tick any option you wan for it to be active for instance, but you can also adjust some of the settings on the right part such as the aforementioned case setup. Well worth looking at as I have seen a number of users get frustrated after they have accidentally or unknowingly set options in there and have had AF issues as a result. I have detailed this in a mini setup guide I created last year, happy to share a link if anyone wants.
Yes, you can assign a lot there. If you don't make any changes, it should work as mentioned in this video
@@jan_wegener Oh, and thanks for the video tips. Video is something I just dabble with and have a shed load to learn so much appreciated.
Mate, i would like a copy of your mini setup guide if you don't mind. Looking at buying a R7 soon.
Excellent video for bird and action photography nbut the setup guides were the best for efficiently going thru the settings …
When you compare price to value, there simply isn't a better camera than the EOS R7 anywhere in the market. The AF and exposure technology on this (and all the Canon mid-tier cameras) is incredible. There's no way the camera on a smart phone could ever capture the range of imagery these machines are capable of.
Geweldige informatie. Veel gebruikte TIPS! TOP Jan.
Thanks, Jan. very timely. I bought the camera today.
Hope you like it!
Hi Jan I listened to you and Duade, I am fully aware of the limitations. I am a Nikon shooter landscape new to action wildlife. I can really afford a Z8 or Z9. I got a cheap second hand EOS 7D and loved IT FIR THE FPS got me away from not being Nikon centric, in terms of bang for buck r7 and rf 100-400 mm and apsc is a no brainer I can't get the autofocus performance in Nikon for that price looked at z50 no ibis etc. No is /VR in Z lenses, Sold my nikon 200-500 zoom, which I get great static shots from which has VR to fund a date with Canon R system. All in all the R7 is the way for now. Thanks for the setup tutorial. What I have learnt they is no perfect system unless you have the bucks for top end Nikon Canon and Sony. But watching you and Duade use it I am going to have a crack. Hopefully, eye auto focus will get me more keepers.
Many thanks - planning on purchasing the R7 so this will be very helpful.
Enjoy!
@@jan_wegener have you done one on the R6 - I’ll do a search
@@Jude2408R6 II, yes
@@jan_wegener is the 6 same as 6ii?
@@Jude2408not tally but mostly. The R6 will be a mix of my R5 and R6 Ii set up video
Thanks for sharing your settings, Jan.
And thanks for that tutorial. I basically had it set like that thanks to your previous guidelines, but still wanted to make some tweaks here and there...
Great to hear!
So I subscribe to your channel, and usually watch each of your vids within hours of you posting them. Then, this morning I was like, how could I possibly have missed this video ?! I have two R7’s and constantly trying to dial them into perfection 🙂
Answer: Because I was in the middle of a 4500 mile photography road trip 🙂 Best answer, right 😀
Anyway, I just sat down with R7 #1, and went all the way through your list of settings and made several changes. I had originally done this with a video from another TH-cam photographer who I’m sure you know {excellent photographer too} but he does mostly BIF stuff, and not as much beautiful perched birds as you, which is what I lean towards. So I’m anxious to see if these settings work even better for me 🙂
TYSM 🙂
I'm curious, how did the settings work out?
@@-DawnZero Excellent 🙂 I think I'm still using most of these settings in the presets of both of my R7's. I might have changed a couple little cobs cute things, but generally speaking, I still direct folks who just got an R7 to this video 🙂👍
Thank you for this guide. It made perfect sense.
I decided not to autoupdate the presets, since i f..ed it up and got a little lost reestablishing the org setup.
Now i'm looking forward to spring with R7+Tamron 150-600 combination
Thanks Jan. Great info. Having moved from the 70D I must now try back button focus
Thanks, Jan. Really informative and useful. I made two or three tweaks to my usual settings and have achieved better results. The biggest tweak was 'retract lens' disable. Wow! I wish I knew about this when I first set up my R7!
Yes that’s a very annoying one
Good video, I will try these settings on my R7.
Thanks so much for sharing another wonderful video like always Jan, keep up with the awesome content 👍🤗
Thank you so much, Jan. I've owned my R7 since June 2022. I haven't been too pleased with it but also haven't used it much. I defer to my R5 99% of the time. I need to give the R7 another chance. I'm going to try your settings and see how I do. I really want to like this camera, I do, but so far I've been kind of disappointed. The fall and winter ducks will be arriving soon, as well as Short-eared Owls, I like the reach with the R7 that I'll need. I'm going to read through the comments for opinions and points from other photographers.
I don’t blame you really when you have the R5 as the main. I own an R7 and it’s fine for my needs but when I hired the R5, that was a monster. The mode dial and hybrid setup makes much more sense. It’s a pity it’s for Canon premium bodies only. Also, the R7 is a bit cramped and not really a true 7D line successor. I get why they limited the buffer. I badly needed a battery grip. You would probably use the R6II more as it’s more natural in terms of ergonomics and layout
@mvp_kryptonite I actually had an R6 for a year before I traded that in for the R5. I'm super happy with my R5. The APS-C sensor of the R7 was attractive to me for when I'm at a wildlife refuge where everything is always so far off. I previously had the 90D which was an okay camera as well. Overall, I'm so happy I went mirrorless in March 2021 for the AF animal eye tracking. What a game changer.
@@cathco9 the eye tracking is unreal, easily the best feature and I can’t wait for the tech to get better
I’m in the same boat as you, I own both the R5 and R7 but rarely use the R7 at all, so will probably end up trading in for another R5 or hold on till the R5ii.
The R7 looks like a good camera to grow in. I think I will get this as my travel companion. The downside is that they are not allowing third party brands to produce autofocus lenses. It seems like cannons don't want people to save money on Sigma and tamron etc.
I just got the R7 and they do not allow my old 3rd party batteries either. Thank god Canon does not make SD Cards (yet). They would charge 10 per Megabyte.
Which kind of batteries do not work with it? @@DanT10
I've the R10, and with an adapter, I shoot macro using a Tokina ATX-i f2.8 100mm FF macro lens, no problem.
fantastic video, thanks, will use this in the field
Glad it was helpful!
Most of these setting suggestions work for my R5 and R6, too. Thanks!
Yes, most canon cameras are quite similar to set up
That was great thanks Jan. I also set up te left button to activate shooting mode selection and the Up button as you did for ISO, but I usually use AUTO ISO
Exellent !!! you are great . Thank you so much.
Thanks,it's really helpful.I like ur video a lot.
Glad to hear that
Great video!! Keep on going with these very useful information. Thanks. A video aboit using the RF 100-500 objective with the R7 is very welcome :) special about Stabilizer Mode etc. (BIF, sitting birds, etc.)
The biggest problem with RAW burst pre burst is that is works only with electronic shutter so you get all the wobbles from rolling shutter exactly when you expect the fastest action... :(
Thanks for persisting with the r7. My set up is largely the same as your recommendation. I am shooting mainly in fav mode with auto iso set to a minimum 400, fv mode provides the quickest exposure compensation function. Have also customised the dof button as emergency bif mode as there is no third button on the back for triple back button focus, I am currently using the old very sharp 400 5.6 with 1.4 ex, image quality very good but can only get 10 fps, however the low frame rate improves sticking of the auto focus and eliminates rolling shutter. I-think canon marketing has lost the plot, key selling points r3 level auto focus and 30 fps which won’t work with the slow sensor, not to mention the unusable mechanical shutter, unethical at best. Canon could have produced an iconic aspc for wildlife and sport, suspect they did not want one competing with high end full frame. This may be an error, for 6-7 hundred more dollars you can get an om1 with professional build, industry leading weather sealing and quality fast sensor. For all its faults the r7 is still the best aspc available.
Hi Jan, thanks for all the videos you put together; I learn loads from you. I do have a question for you, pertaining to this video. I set up my R7 using this video when it first came out, and went through it again today, as a refresher and to clean up settings. I have set up pretty much all of my settings as you do in the video, the only addition being that I defined C1 for Animals as the subject, C2 for People and C3 as None. My question is as follows. I have my subject set to None and am using the STAR button to focus, which is using the spot meter, as you prescribe. However, if I put the focusing square directly on a bright orange square on my black camera bag, the viewfinder shows the blue focusing squares seeking out other subjects in the viewfinder. When I look at the captured image, it will show the red focusing point exactly where I placed it, but in reality, the content that is in focus is the area that the blue squares were dancing over. I have been noticing this for some time, and it confuses me as to what is going on. If I enable the touch focus and select that same tag with my finger on the back of the camera, it correctly nails focus. In all testing, I have the focus zone set to the middle of the viewfinder, and I am ensuring I put that on my little orange tag, not worried about composition for my testing. I very much want to use the STAR button to pre-focus, as you suggest in your video, but if the focus is not 100% tied to that zone, it defeats the purpose. I don't know if there is a setting for this, or if it is normal behavior. Any ideas for me? I should also note that if I move the focus point off of center and then focus with the STAR button, it works as planned.
Thanks so much for all you do. Your videos are clear, well thought out and well presented. I look forward to seeing new content from you each week.
Thanks Jan, super helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Jan, very helpful. I made all the changes you suggested. However, this morning when I went to try it out, I found that the lag time between half-pressing the shutter button and seeing an image in the EV was significantly longer than previously. I found it was due to changing the tracking sensitivity and accel./decel. tracking to -2. Once I restored these to 0, the lag from half-pressing the shutter to seeing an image was much less.
what do you mean by seeing an image?
@@jan_wegener I mean the time it takes for the EV to activate (from a black screen)
A very useful presentation. I will try the settings on my R7. My only question, Jan, is why do you turn the image stabilisation off in photos?
I don’t. It was the digital IS I was referring to
@@jan_wegener ah…understood. Thank you.
Which I’ll add a follow up as a newbie , why turn off the digital IS? Pros and cons please?
The new firmware 1.3.1 only has digital IS. Not any other selections. So is the IBIS now always on.?
@@Dpixtion ibis can not be turned off. Only when your turn off Is too
Digital Stabiliser is something else
this vid came at the right time buddy lol! Just got the missus the R7 so its saved me having to think to much 😂😂😂👍🏼 Cheers mate! JP
Great!
Thank you for this very helpful video. I have just changed from a Canon 7D2, which I've loved for 8 years, to an R7. I have had two difficulties so far. 1. I hate the EVF and desperately miss the bright OVF of the 7D2. 2. Related to that, I have very low success rate with flying birds. I have a hard time getting them into the frame and then acquiring focus. This with the Canon RF 100-400 f/6.3-8 IS.
Try a red dot sight. Olympus and Nikon have had them for around US$100 - $150, but Amazon has some that are good enough for maybe $20. I've had great success following flying birds with that. Note: It is NOT a laser, and the light is invisible from the subject side.
Excellent explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! It is quite similar to my R8 set up.
No problem 👍
Yes I've had the same problem with the auto focus but shooting at 30 fps really isn't much between shots and I always get a sharp image in the mix. But great settings to minimise it too. 👍
Yes, you usually get some good shots in a burst
The best feature I am using most often, that was not covered in video: set one of the customisable buttons to "MAGNIFY/REDUCE" (you need magnifying glass icon). This allows you to see in the viewfinder a little piece of your future shot but magnified 5X or 10X to the actual size.
3 reasons you need this:
1. To immediately check whether you focus is ok and adjust if necessary.
2. To focus on the bird hiding between branches inside the bush. Works kind of like single-point AF, but more precise.
3. To use your camera as actual (tele)scope to look at distant small birds and identify them to find rarities you trying to get.
The magnify feature does not work well with Servo focus mode. So one of your AF buttons should be in one-shot mode.
Thanks for sharing this information Jan! When I use raw burst mode the action I want is always right before I hit the shutter so I only do a short tap on the shutter. The buffer fills much more quickly since I'm only capturing a couple of shots from after the shutter was pressed and I only have to wait a second or two before I can use it again or use a different mode. I'll get all those pre-capture shots and just a couple from after that.
For street or architecture do you also recommend the 1st curtain electronic shutter ?
6:50 you said you set it to exposure and depth of view but only put it on exposure just wondering which one I should put it on
Could not find the PDF for all of the settings. Wonderful helpful video. Just switching from 5D Mark 4 to R7.
Thebirdphotographyshow.com for the guides
Hi Jan, thank you , this setup video has steered me on the right path while I'm learning all about this camera but one thing is confusing me :
In your PDF guide purple mode , AF 1 AF Operation - "Servo" . On my R7 ,only " One Shot" mode is displayed on the screen and the "SERVO" OPTION is missing completely from the screen , so I am not able to select the " Servo" mode. Why is this a d how do I get the camera to display SERVO option? Please help. Thanks.
Interesting discussion. Since I like shooting at air shows, how would you set-up the R7 for use with the 100-500 and 200-800 lenses?
To give an idea, I usually shoot at 1/1250" and f/5.6 at ISO 100-200 here in Greece for fast moving jets, and rarely I use burst shooting (I am continually focusing and framing). For propeller aircraft and helicopters, I usually lock my shutter at 1/500" or so, to blur the propellers.
By the way, I am still trying to wrap my brain around the AF area setup for birds - how can no eye tracking and spot focus area can work with birds in flight and quick-moving birds? I may have only 1-2 seconds before a twitchy bird decides to fly away from a branch, not enough time for moving the AF point around
Fantastic tips, I shall now use some of these that explains many things! Keep it up matey.
Hi, nice video! I'm interested on the tracking sensitivity-accel-tecel part of your settings. For you, it is -2/-2. Do you use the same for BIF? And is it mainly for just RF lenses, have you tried it with a sigma/tamron? (Just because Duade has a video where +2/-2 was the best settings, so I found this really interesting, I will most certainly give your settings a try. :)
Jan, how did you manage a complete wardrobe change in a minute from 19:12 to 20:17 ?? 🤣 . For a second I thought i was watching a separate video. Great and informative video as always!
hehe, I wondered if anyone noticed. I forgot to mention this bit, so I cut it out from my R6 II video :)
Interestingly, my highest hit rate for BIF involved turning AED off and using a flexible af area. I think the r7 struggles with sensor read and processing speeds. For perched birds AED is fine.
Jan. Thanks. One question when eye detection and subject tracking are separated w different buttons: when (generally) to use eye vs. subject track vs. both with birds in flight?
Hi Jan, loving your videos and extremely grateful to you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. Since publishing this do you/have you used the Fv mode, or do you stay in M? What are your thoughts on the Fv mode?
I only use full manual, I am just so used to it
So when it comes to still subjects such as a bird on a limb would it be better to just spot focus the birds head and not try to continuously focus which may cause the auto focus to possibly jump off here and there as long as your depth of field covers the bird from front to back ? Thanks 😊
My ears are not the best in the world but for me there is no difference of noise volume between mechanical and first curtain ,Thankyou very useful
A great review, thanks. I use a similar set-up, except the baseline AF mode invokes animal eye-tracking with point AF (small focus point box), via the AF-On button, Instead of using the AE * button for spot focusing, I used the "Register" function to continue the animal eye-tracking with a faster shutter speed (1/2500s) and full-screen view, making it immediately ready for a bird-in-flight, should one pass by. If I understand correctly, you would have to dial up the shutter speed and change the focus point for BIF?
This is an amazing video. It is very helpful. I have had many issues with the Auto focus issues on the R 7. I made many setting changes after watching it and looking forward to using it in my wildlife and surfing photos. Would you have any suggestions on my surfing photos with wave spray and what case to use or any other suggestions? Many times there is wave spray and the camera focuses on the spray instead of the surfer. I don`t know what the remedy is but interested in your opinion. I shoot a lot of deer photos and the camera works well shooting deer. What do you think about contrast issues that go along with the AF Issues shooting birds? I have had issues getting sharp focused photos birds in flight. My son uses a R 5 professionally and suggested I hold the AF button on when shooting anything.
Super video Jan 😊 Thanks for putting together. I am curious as to why you turn IS off? Also how do you edit your videos and what software do you use?
It’s digital Is, not the normal IS
Davinci resolve I use
@@jan_wegener Still learning and I am uncertain of the difference
Hello, great video, thank you. Is there a problem with autofocus in R7 or this is still unknown?
It is what it is at this stage. A great AF system that for some reason struggles at times
Thank you for your prompt reply.
Thank you for this really detailed setup video for the R7 - I must have watched it 5 times over while getting all the settings dialed in just how I want. I've used many of your recommendations with a few tweaks as I more often than not shoot in Fv mode using Auto ISO. I absolutely love your duel back button auto focus, and have used this setup on my Canon R6 for a couple of years. It has made such a difference in my keeper rate, and allowed me to be so much more focused on the Wildlife Moment that is happing in front of me @GrampiansParadise than on driving the camera.
The "Electronic full-time MF" I have set to enable on both the R7 and R6 and find it extremely helpful, but on both cameras it only works when in photos modes. Do you know of a way to have it enabled when in Video mode? I would love to occasionally pull focus manually (while recording) when still remaining in auto focus moods. In essence being able to override the auto focus while my finger is moving the focus ring, whether it be on the 100mm to 500mm or 100 to 400mm RF lens.
Kind regards Aidan Banfield
reacting from the netherlands. It is very clear thanks very much for your video but where can I find the pdf just to check again. I cannot find it. Thanks very much, Ingrid
The birdphotographyshow.com
Thanks a lot jan!!
I can't find a way to control iso, aperture and ss from two wheels. Do u know how to customise one wheel to switch between this 3?
Thanks
Awesome, thanks.
How can I’m get info about joining your group ….
When using this to shoot AFL I can only use mechanical shutter. Unlike your experience even with electronic 1st curtain I get a distorted, warped football much of the time.
That's interesting, thanks for sharing
I was seeing the exact same autofocus issues with my R6 and R6II, so I don't think it's specific to the R7 and the relative slowness of the AF system. My second R6II doesn't have the issue so I think it's a bad batch with a manufacture date from end of 2022. I would advise anyone experiencing this to send it back for a replacement.
Thanks, for all your hard work Jan. I recently got the R7 with the 18-150 mm kit lens. I customized all the settings as per your suggestion but when using the AF-ON to BBF the eye tracking blue box disappears when the button is released. Is it still tracking or do I have to keep it pressed to ensure it remains in focus and tracking the subject?
Hi Jan, I was wondering which setting gives FULL on the right of your screen?? I do not have this om my R7
Cannot see the PDF you are talking about at the beginning of your video 0:45
Thebirdphotographyshow.com
Thank you for great info. Jan.
Is there a difference between Electric first curtain shutter mode and electronic shutter mode regarding how the picture is saved to the memory card? Why not only set the fully electronic shutter to 15/s. Is it no rolling shutter at all when set at Elec. 1st-curtain?
there can still be some. pictures are the same
Nice video but how can you disable the autofocus function on shutter button?
Of course
I did in this video
A question, where in Melbourne can you get Canon lenses repaired?
I'd ask at Sunstudios
@@jan_wegener thanks
Hi If I program the settings you suggest on C1(example) and then change it to camera to TV . Does the camera operate on as original ?? Do the button presets from C1 stay.
What about menu AF4 sensitivity AF point ? -1 0 or +1
???
How do you set the 'wheels' to ,for example, alter the ISO ?
you can change them in the menu. I am using the top button for ISO and the top field on the back dpad
can i use the same settings for the R6 ?
can we ?
Pretty much. I have a set up video for R6 II and both R5, too
Video molto interessante, grazie per averlo condiviso con noi. Un saluto dall'Italia
Hi Jan. Good topic and coverage! I have an issue with default autofocus distance that was not touched. Do you have opinion on that?
I use Canon R7 + 100-500 mm. When I am trying to photo [distant] birds in flight against open blue sky, I would love camera focus to be set at infinite distance. However, if you lose bird out of focus box, the camera starts focus search and after a while AF search stops at the "default" position, which is the closest for my Canon R7. Even with the focus limiter (at 3 meters) camera is completely defocused, and to see bird again I need to get focus back to infinity (focus at horizon) which is annoying, takes time, and the bird might be already gone.
My friend with Nicon (D40? + 150-600 mm) does not have this issue: it's "default" focus position is right at the infinity. So if AF missed the bird once, you can continue trying again and again.
So my question: is it possible to do anythung about that?)
Also would be great to know whether this problem exist on other Canon and non-Canon cameras.
Good afternoon it’s 12:13 PM. Please help me with the homework you do so wonderfully at and all the videos are great. My question is the R7 sensor is not as quality as an R3 or so forth. Please help me learn with homework. Can it take updates to be a more performing sensor or is it locked in the way it is and updates cannot help it. Thank you for your time. Have a great day
sensor will stay the same