Jim Great video brother. I use the number 8 SOLDER on the larger TXV valves. I don't like to out to much heat on the valves this helps me from over heating it.
I just want to thank you for the videos Jim, every time I get chance to go online the first thing I do is to look for one of your videos. Thank you sir!
with your drier being plugged that bad-you should check expansion valve or valves-screens etc.-also the co. i worked for we changed contactor with new comp.-nice work Jim
A great video Jim. It is clear to me now when to use solder and brazing rod , both using turbo torch. A good demonstration of techniques. What type of brazing rod is it Jim?
I wonder if you can give advice on brazing. I saw you use air/acetylene vs oxy/acetylene. What is the reason for your preference. Also are you soft soldering the dryer vs brazing? Im an hvac tech that doesnt do refrigeration but i do lots of commercial and residential ac repairs. Always use silflos and oxy/ace. I always like to do repairs that are durable and most likely to last forever. I have learned a lot from your channel. Thanks so much rc
Hi Jim, I like your work but I didn't like drilling holes on suction line , without cleaning them.. brand new compressor it may make damage. I'm going in school for refrigeration techniques and like beginner I newer should make that mistake. Think, if beat of copper stuck it on suction line plate. I will continue teach from you,and follow your videos. Everybody can make mistake. Best regards from Sweden
Hi there Jim, great videos. I have one question, though. May copper shavings and/or filings that could have fallen into the suction pipe while drilling the holes for smaller connection affect the operation of the system in the future? Thanks in advance, sir.
+Rafael Larios no, if they get into the compressor they will fall to the bottom of the oil and stay there, never had a problem with them for 45 years plkus 10 yrs as a helper, thanks.
Fantastic and informative as always Jim. Just a question though. Does that silver solder and flux combo work for copper to steel and copper to aluminium as well?
Something I wanted to say about leak loc, it's definitely a great product, works when others won't. The problem is, it's ability to stop leaks on threaded joints is only wishful thinking. Admit antsy, I still use it here and there but have slowly been going over to Nylog. Other mechanics and I have found leak loc lodged in TXV strainers too many times. Although I haven't actually seen it, I'm told if Nylog works its way into the system it will break down in the strainer and pass through and get caught in a he drier when it cycles round. I don't know how true that is though. The primary seal is the face of the flare joint, if refrigerant molecules get past that seal, thread sealant hasn't a prayer to stop it, the refrigerant molecules are just too small to stop with thread sealant When I go steel to copper I use flare gaskets, they look like flares that have been cut off. Or I double flare. I know the sealant doesn't work, but it still gives me confidence from old habits. In college, they taught us to use mineral oil on the mating surfaces.
Hey Jim, I'm just getting started in the refrigeration field and I cant tell you how much your videos have helped. Could you tell me when you would not use the stay bright 8. I noticed on this one you switch. Is it because of the size of the pipe?
Nick Albee in general I braze most everything thats going to be permanant, the exception would be items that I might want to change, like a drier filter or an expansion valve, then I use # 8. thanks
Jim... looking at the tank you were filling the system with after the repairs, it looks like you reuse the refrigerant you pull out of the system prior to the repairs. Am I seeing that correctly?
Nice work Jim and thanks for all of these cool videos. I'm glad to see you using silver solder. Is there a reason that you don't use it on everything except maybe the joints right at the compressor? I have always thought brazing was overkill even with the higher pressure refrigerants. Have you ever seen a properly soldered joint fail?
Nicholas CeeA Back in the 60's the everything was soldered with 50/50 pluming solder, then refrigerant was R12 with low pressures, then R22 & R502 came along and the high pressure, vibration and heat tensions caused condenser leaks. I use #8 stay brite silver solder on anything I might have to take apart in the future, like a drier filter or a expansion valve. thanks for commenting
Have you ever seen a stay brite or silver solder joint fail? Would you trust using stay bright on all joints except maybe the compressor? I'm trying to understand why everyone brazes. 50/50 is very weak compared to silver solder.
Nicholas CeeA silver solder would work on all joints, but brazing rod is stronger and a little easier to fill the joint with less leak potential. Soldering takes more skill.
Hi Jim,You do great job.I have watched most of your videos.I am a store and property owner, so I have many different heating and cooling units. I want to know at what point you recommend changing the whole new unit. I see you have one by one changed all the parts for this client in one year time. Does this parts last.
+piyush patel parts lasts 5 - 10 yrs, most store owners don't want to spend the $3000. to $5000. to replace the unit, they all want the failed part changed only.
Faint that the truth! Try sell them a new unit because you know from experience this will nickel and dime them to death, but hey feel you trying to deceive him. We had a customer that 3 companies refused to service equipment unless they purchased new units, they had six and could afford it , especially all at once. We repaired them all with generic replacement parts and they were delighted. Over the next five years they got nickeled and dimmed till they finally closed down. The junk was still junk units and I'm sure the property was inspected and valued as needing to be replaced and deducted from the property value... This is because of a few bad eggs on 20/20... Then they have hunk, everybody's like that.
Hello Jim this is my first time watching your videos. I just retired and I am looking for a different occupation. would you recommend this for someone at my senior years. I have worked in the electrical field and the aircraft industry along with a small amount of HVAC.
Hey Jim, I've been in the service industry since 1983, I typically replace a welded liquid line drier with a flare drier, you can get the copper union to flare connections, weld in the unions, and install the flare drier, it's easier then putting a flare nut on & using my old flaring tool. In the future, you would only have to pump down the system from the receiver to change the drier, saving you and the customer time & money. I agree about using the EK (old Alco brand now Emerson drier), a properly tightened flare won't leak, (I've removed flare driers over 20 years old which have never leaked). Is this a personal preference or do you also use flare driers?
Have you had any problems with your evacII mine started acting up after 3 months yellow jacket gave me my money back and said they are not working as well as expected.
Mine works good, no problems. I got some oil on it's sensor, but it washes off with denatured alcahol. I'm going to buy another this summer, I use it alot.
Not sure they will still be selling them by then from what the guy in tech support said but accu tools Blu vac is the same thing. I did love it most accurate gauge I have ever used. Thank you for all the great videos!
hi jim,,, i have a problem with the walk-in freezer the refrigerant using is R-22 the discharge pressure is too high it goes up to 400 psi and the sunction pressure is 30 psi and the ambient temperature inside the walk-in freezer is up to -8'c, what supose to be the problem your help is highly appreciated,,, thanks,,,
Jojit Perlado start by cleaning the condenser out, then remove some refrigerant, I hope nobody mixed refrigerants. I would take the R22 out and put R404a with an expansion valve change with some POE oil added.
Dennis Noone the easiest way is to just google the model number, you'll get a couple dozen sites. Emerson and Techumseh have sites, emerson's is difficult to get on.
eman3208 standard practice= NMT 3 psi TD across the drier. A new drier is 0 psi across the drier. Remember the temperature TD between the sensors may be off a bit. The Fluke 52II you see Jim using cost approx $900 for the basic meter and two pipe clamps. And he's got at least two sets from what I've seen... very expensive. The sensors have an error of I think 3F.... so what I do is try use the same sensor fore and aft if I see a questionable reading.
I wonder Why you do not use Nitrogen in the welding process Did you know what happen inside copper. Everything else you are Fine. Do not take me wrong I just try to help you out. We are in the same Business Industrial....
Hello My name is Kermit Pemberton I manufacture portable walk in coolers on wheels. I also rent other items not related to refrigeration. I understand about 40% of how to trouble shoot and repair my newly manufacture boxes. I have small questions from time to time example: A. If manufactures specs say under testing conditions ; Condensing Temperature is 120 F is that the measured at the line temp? B. Manufacture says tested Evaporating Temp at -10 degrees is this taken with a thermoter? C. Can I determine superheat for the evaporator without a sharder valvue opening or opening to attach gauges ; can I measure with a thermometer ? D. How would I find out the perfect head pressures and dischard presures for example a 2 1/4 hp compressor the sheet says 120f condensing Temp for this 2 1/2 hp Kuthorn Kirby. Please Text me 310-245-6785 cell ... www.icefoxequipment.com.
I'm really rather disappointed...no nitrogen purging as evidenced by the light smoke exiting the suction schraeder instead of a strong stream...Drilling the bent elbow twice with all the copper waste sitting in the suction tube, that could easily been done off the unit. Then reaming the vertical suction tube without blowing the chips out of the suction line, this could have been done with a blast of nitrogen during the prep phase. Then braze it all in., all that crap goes into the compressor crankcase... Whats up with the sloppy work? You need to get back to basics...Im sure your a smart mechanic but it looks like your getting lazy in your older years. CO2 can blow out very light dirt in condensers but all those fins bent over from that.(from another video) use a low pressure washer specially designed for coils and many times you don't even need the chemical. Come on.............
+hvac01453 the blue tank off to the right with the blue hose is nitrogen. I use to rebuild compressors and found that any metal bits like solder or braze BBs or aluminum bits from the piston rods or copper shavings just sits harmlessly at the bottom of the oil in the crankcase, never had any problem.
That may be true, but, only when the unit is at rest. When the crankshaft begins to splash during operation, these particles float right up to the top just like chocolate milk. Also the issue of copper plating the compressor. Some of this could get through the oil journals into the piston walls and scratch them or lodge in wrist pins... Once it gets past the compressor, the drier will catch it, like all that oxidation that gets washed through the system,. Some techs when I first started use to say between the discharge and the drier, the driers got it. After that the concern is the metering device. If a suction line drier is put in, it will help cover a lot of sins except on the outlet end. I nitrogen braze only with braze rod . Purging during Soldering isn't needed. It's only about 400-440f. Ever notice Mitsubishi wants nothing but flare fittings? That eliminates dirty systems/ contamination.
you complain about this or that... but your probably just as bad or worse.. most likely your craftsman ship is really poor... your line sets are probably the same as everyone else...
Back when I was a refrigeration tech we was always taught to use a flare drier. The next guy will sure appreciate it.
What is a flare drier?
@@hg2. flare fittings on both ends, not a braze in.
Jim Great video brother. I use the number 8 SOLDER on the larger TXV valves. I don't like to out to much heat on the valves this helps me from over heating it.
exactly...thanks
I just want to thank you for the videos Jim, every time I get chance to go online the first thing I do is to look for one of your videos. Thank you sir!
Great videos , very informative , I'd rather watch these video's than most T V shows ...
with your drier being plugged that bad-you should check expansion valve or valves-screens etc.-also the co. i worked for we changed contactor with new comp.-nice work Jim
A great video Jim. It is clear to me now when to use solder and brazing rod , both using turbo torch. A good demonstration of techniques. What type of brazing rod is it Jim?
Great purger by nitrogen Jim. I had to cut a pipe open which I brazed it was like new.
I wonder if you can give advice on brazing. I saw you use air/acetylene vs oxy/acetylene. What is the reason for your preference. Also are you soft soldering the dryer vs brazing?
Im an hvac tech that doesnt do refrigeration but i do lots of commercial and residential ac repairs. Always use silflos and oxy/ace. I always like to do repairs that are durable and most likely to last forever.
I have learned a lot from your channel. Thanks so much
rc
Hi Jim, I like your work but I didn't like drilling holes on suction line , without cleaning them.. brand new compressor it may make damage. I'm going in school for refrigeration techniques and like beginner I newer should make that mistake. Think, if beat of copper stuck it on suction line plate. I will continue teach from you,and follow your videos. Everybody can make mistake. Best regards from Sweden
Good job JP! Copper filings are not going to hurt a compressor. Period.
Chuch-You might want to rethink your thinking.
Hi there Jim, great videos. I have one question, though. May copper shavings and/or filings that could have fallen into the suction pipe while drilling the holes for smaller connection affect the operation of the system in the future?
Thanks in advance, sir.
+Rafael Larios no, if they get into the compressor they will fall to the bottom of the oil and stay there, never had a problem with them for 45 years plkus 10 yrs as a helper, thanks.
Fantastic and informative as always Jim.
Just a question though.
Does that silver solder and flux combo work for copper to steel and copper to aluminium as well?
Something I wanted to say about leak loc, it's definitely a great product, works when others won't. The problem is, it's ability to stop leaks on threaded joints is only wishful thinking. Admit antsy, I still use it here and there but have slowly been going over to Nylog. Other mechanics and I have found leak loc lodged in TXV strainers too many times. Although I haven't actually seen it, I'm told if Nylog works its way into the system it will break down in the strainer and pass through and get caught in a he drier when it cycles round. I don't know how true that is though. The primary seal is the face of the flare joint, if refrigerant molecules get past that seal, thread sealant hasn't a prayer to stop it, the refrigerant molecules are just too small to stop with thread sealant When I go steel to copper I use flare gaskets, they look like flares that have been cut off. Or I double flare. I know the sealant doesn't work, but it still gives me confidence from old habits. In college, they taught us to use mineral oil on the mating surfaces.
Hi Jim , couldn’t you have dump charged the receiver to speed up adding the refrigerant ?
Since the Evaporator is remote from the compressor, where did you have the sensor that was giving you the 32 degree reading?
Hey Jim, I'm just getting started in the refrigeration field and I cant tell you how much your videos have helped. Could you tell me when you would not use the stay bright 8. I noticed on this one you switch. Is it because of the size of the pipe?
Nick Albee in general I braze most everything thats going to be permanant, the exception would be items that I might want to change, like a drier filter or an expansion valve, then I use # 8. thanks
Jim... looking at the tank you were filling the system with after the repairs, it looks like you reuse the refrigerant you pull out of the system prior to the repairs. Am I seeing that correctly?
Great videos, I am with Billy please keep them coming
Nice work Jim and thanks for all of these cool videos. I'm glad to see you using silver solder. Is there a reason that you don't use it on everything except maybe the joints right at the compressor? I have always thought brazing was overkill even with the higher pressure refrigerants. Have you ever seen a properly soldered joint fail?
Nicholas CeeA Back in the 60's the everything was soldered with 50/50 pluming solder, then refrigerant was R12 with low pressures, then R22 & R502 came along and the high pressure, vibration and heat tensions caused condenser leaks. I use #8 stay brite silver solder on anything I might have to take apart in the future, like a drier filter or a expansion valve. thanks for commenting
Have you ever seen a stay brite or silver solder joint fail? Would you trust using stay bright on all joints except maybe the compressor? I'm trying to understand why everyone brazes. 50/50 is very weak compared to silver solder.
Nicholas CeeA silver solder would work on all joints, but brazing rod is stronger and a little easier to fill the joint with less leak potential. Soldering takes more skill.
Thanks Jim
+Nicholas braze is code
Hi Jim,You do great job.I have watched most of your videos.I am a store and property owner, so I have many different heating
and cooling units. I want to know at what point you recommend changing the whole new unit. I see you have one by one changed all the parts for this client in one year time. Does this parts last.
+piyush patel parts lasts 5 - 10 yrs, most store owners don't want to spend the $3000. to $5000. to replace the unit, they all want the failed part changed only.
Faint that the truth! Try sell them a new unit because you know from experience this will nickel and dime them to death, but hey feel you trying to deceive him. We had a customer that 3 companies refused to service equipment unless they purchased new units, they had six and could afford it , especially all at once. We repaired them all with generic replacement parts and they were delighted. Over the next five years they got nickeled and dimmed till they finally closed down. The junk was still junk units and I'm sure the property was inspected and valued as needing to be replaced and deducted from the property value... This is because of a few bad eggs on 20/20... Then they have hunk, everybody's like that.
Jim , sure miss your great videos
Hello Jim this is my first time watching your videos. I just retired and I am looking for a different occupation. would you recommend this for someone at my senior years. I have worked in the electrical field and the aircraft industry along with a small amount of HVAC.
Hey Jim, I've been in the service industry since 1983, I typically replace a welded liquid line drier with a flare drier, you can get the copper union to flare connections, weld in the unions, and install
the flare drier, it's easier then putting a flare nut on & using my old flaring tool. In the future, you would only have to pump down the system from the receiver to change the drier, saving you and the customer time & money. I agree about using the EK (old Alco brand now Emerson drier), a properly tightened flare won't leak, (I've removed flare driers over 20 years old which have never leaked). Is this a personal preference or do you also use flare driers?
+Peter Hoch my preferance is flare driers, especially on refrigeration equipment,
+Jim Pettinato me too! easier to change out also, less chance for contaminates...
very nicely done jim you make much better vids then I do keep them coming
Why didnt you usd stay brite on all the joints?
Will that solder hold I was taught to never solder refrigeration line always braze
You can use soft solder on everything but discharge lines. Stay Brite #8 is preferred for refrigeration.
jim why choose the silver instead of cooper?
58psi for walkin cooler? and for frezeer 20-25psi
When I grow up, I want to be just like you.. nice work
Have you had any problems with your evacII mine started acting up after 3 months yellow jacket gave me my money back and said they are not working as well as expected.
Mine works good, no problems. I got some oil on it's sensor, but it washes off with denatured alcahol. I'm going to buy another this summer, I use it alot.
Not sure they will still be selling them by then from what the guy in tech support said but accu tools Blu vac is the same thing. I did love it most accurate gauge I have ever used. Thank you for all the great videos!
hi jim,,, i have a problem with the walk-in freezer the refrigerant using is R-22 the discharge pressure is too high it goes up to 400 psi and the sunction pressure is 30 psi and the ambient temperature inside the walk-in freezer is up to -8'c, what supose to be the problem your help is highly appreciated,,, thanks,,,
Jojit Perlado start by cleaning the condenser out, then remove some refrigerant, I hope nobody mixed refrigerants. I would take the R22 out and put R404a with an expansion valve change with some POE oil added.
***** ok thanks jim i will do that,,,
Jojit Perlado check the txv adjustment or filter drier
Great job my friend I like your videos, very thorough
I follow you a lot.just wanna say thanks for all that you do
What labeler do you have and is it battery powered? Thanks
It's a P-Touch, works good, thanks
I always wonder how introducing flux affects things
When you drilled into the suction line, what were those holes for?
To install service valve for the suction side.
Thanks Jim for another great video. Anxiously awaiting the next.
Charles
Jim, what camera are you using ? I see that you use your phone as the monitor - so a WiFi-enabled unit?
***** accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=&cs=04&sku=A8251852&ST=pla&dgc=ST&cid=262075&lid=4742361&acd=1230980794501410
***** Cool. Thanks!
Jim sir haw it wondw ac compresar change
whats the application or site where you got all the comp specs? thanks
Dennis Noone the easiest way is to just google the model number, you'll get a couple dozen sites. Emerson and Techumseh have sites, emerson's is difficult to get on.
Do you use a nitrogen purge when you braze?
the blue hose is nitrogen
if you look to the right you'll see the blue nitrogen tank and the blue hose.
whats should be the temp difference from the beginning of the drier to the end of the drier?
eman3208 standard practice= NMT 3 psi TD across the drier. A new drier is 0 psi across the drier. Remember the temperature TD between the sensors may be off a bit. The Fluke 52II you see Jim using cost approx $900 for the basic meter and two pipe clamps. And he's got at least two sets from what I've seen... very expensive. The sensors have an error of I think 3F.... so what I do is try use the same sensor fore and aft if I see a questionable reading.
Need a lapel mic. Too bad the narrative is inaudible in most places.
super job thanks a million for the vid's!!!
Jim you need a quick charge adapter for charging. Flashes the liquid makes for quicker charging
do they work...I've seen them over the years, I've never tried them.
I have used them a couple of times and they seemed to work. I do not own one. Your method looks like it works well though. Great videos
HI! Jim like your video, keep it up.
Nice work love your videos
thanks
Hey how are ya........
Jim, I am new to this industry, I was wondering if you would hire me as a helper/Apprentice?
I wonder Why you do not use Nitrogen in the welding process Did you know what happen inside copper. Everything else you are Fine. Do not take me wrong I just try to help you out. We are in the same Business Industrial....
see that blue hose and blue nitrogen tank to the right...
*****
Sorry I see it Now Good Job
www.certifiedqualityair.com
Certified Quality Air & Plumbing Inc I see the blue hose but if you look at the suction schrader smoke what does the evidence really say?
thanks viejoon
Thanks .
# 1. Tnk u
Hello My name is Kermit Pemberton I manufacture portable walk in coolers on wheels. I also rent other items not related to refrigeration. I understand about 40% of how to trouble shoot and repair my newly manufacture boxes. I have small questions from time to time example: A. If manufactures specs say under testing conditions ; Condensing Temperature is 120 F is that the measured at the line temp? B. Manufacture says tested Evaporating Temp at -10 degrees is this taken with a thermoter? C. Can I determine superheat for the evaporator without a sharder valvue opening or opening to attach gauges ; can I measure with a thermometer ? D. How would I find out the perfect head pressures and dischard presures for example a 2 1/4 hp compressor the sheet says 120f condensing Temp for this 2 1/2 hp Kuthorn Kirby. Please Text me 310-245-6785 cell ... www.icefoxequipment.com.
sloppy work
I'm really rather disappointed...no nitrogen purging as evidenced by the light smoke exiting the suction schraeder instead of a strong stream...Drilling the bent elbow twice with all the copper waste sitting in the suction tube, that could easily been done off the unit. Then reaming the vertical suction tube without blowing the chips out of the suction line, this could have been done with a blast of nitrogen during the prep phase. Then braze it all in., all that crap goes into the compressor crankcase... Whats up with the sloppy work? You need to get back to basics...Im sure your a smart mechanic but it looks like your getting lazy in your older years. CO2 can blow out very light dirt in condensers but all those fins bent over from that.(from another video) use a low pressure washer specially designed for coils and many times you don't even need the chemical. Come on.............
+hvac01453 the blue tank off to the right with the blue hose is nitrogen. I use to rebuild compressors and found that any metal bits like solder or braze BBs or aluminum bits from the piston rods or copper shavings just sits harmlessly at the bottom of the oil in the crankcase, never had any problem.
That may be true, but, only when the unit is at rest. When the crankshaft begins to splash during operation, these particles float right up to the top just like chocolate milk. Also the issue of copper plating the compressor. Some of this could get through the oil journals into the piston walls and scratch them or lodge in wrist pins... Once it gets past the compressor, the drier will catch it, like all that oxidation that gets washed through the system,. Some techs when I first started use to say between the discharge and the drier, the driers got it. After that the concern is the metering device. If a suction line drier is put in, it will help cover a lot of sins except on the outlet end. I nitrogen braze only with braze rod . Purging during Soldering isn't needed. It's only about 400-440f. Ever notice Mitsubishi wants nothing but flare fittings? That eliminates dirty systems/ contamination.
You are right. His brazzing was not good.
you complain about this or that... but your probably just as bad or worse.. most likely your craftsman ship is really poor... your line sets are probably the same as everyone else...