I absolutely adore you! Literally every issue I am having with my 2000 beetle 2.0L, you have covered... right up to this video. As a woman, I have been ripped off one too many times by repair shops; you have empowered me so freaking much!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Mr. Thomas. Normally I repair computers and thanks to his videos I've been able to change the water pump my old beetle. Without their help it would have been impossible. I owe you one. Infinitely grateful.
Thank Thomas (again) for saving my arse lol. This past Tuesday, the low coolant light came on soon as I got to work. I thought, "No biggie, I'll just top it off". By the time I got back home after work, the light came on and the reservoir was bone dry again. I jacked up the car and seen pink crust on the lower timing cover, then leading to the bottom of the crankshaft pulley. I pulled off the upper cover to see my worst nightmare, coolant all around the water pump pulley, which also started to eat away at the timing belt. After watching this video, it gave me the confidence to go out and buy the parts, took two days off from work (just in case) and began wrenching away. I took my time, cleaned up everything thoroughly before install the new tb, tensioner and water pump. Just got done a few hours ago, and now my daily (mk4 Golf) runs better than ever, even at 160k miles. The engine purrrrs like a kitten, with no leaks after full warm up, under pressure and after a 5 mile test drive. So thanks again man, I was really dredging the job as I was not about to fork over at least $1000 for a mechanic to fix it. You've saved me time, money, and a lot of headaches!!
WOW! You are the most professional and top notch mechanic I have viewed in a long time! Keep up the videos. You make it look like a walk in the park. :)
This and part two gave me all the confidence to do this myself on my AEG Beetle; It took me a little longer than here :-). Like on this car the bozo before installed the tensioner wrong. The tab was at the 3 o'clock position no where near the frost plug and slightly bent. The belt was on pretty tight so it was a good thing I decided to do this as a regular maintenance thing. This series and Schrodingers Box's "proper tensioning" video are pretty much all you need for this as a DIY. I highly recommend using the overhead engine support.Thank you so much for your excellent channel.
Great Work on this production Thomas. You shined a light on mis installation my of Cam tensioner. Most of the bolts were over torqued by whomever worked on this bug before. The vibration dampner was tightend with an impact wrench. I had to use MAC bold extractor kit to remove. The water pump bolts were rounded off. I'm waiting for the bolts for the dampner and water pump from VW to start re assembly. I'm a little rusty but watching you work brought me back to reality. Thanks again.. Chuck
Thank you for watching... I don't record everything / some things are not in the view of the camera, so if anything ever needs clarifying... just let me know.
I'll be doing this repair next week on our 2001 Beetle. Glad to see listed are the tools, as most of mine are the older SAE tools from back in the 'day'. A few metrics floating around the box, looks like I'll have to invest in a new set (good excuse to buy more tools!). Ours according to the last owner was done at 80,000 miles. And ours is approaching the 160k mark (158k.) Not going to bother to inspect, replacing it and the water pump isn't to much $$. We'll be trying out a new 'trick', when last we worked on power flushing the green coolant out (yuck..) we found the heater core had a heck of an air pocket. I'm going to see if the hose pinch-off pliers can help prevent the same problem. That stinker didn't want to burp that pocket out for all the tea in China!
Thank Thomas, just finished replacing timing belt, water pump and thermostat per your instruction. great step by step easy to follow instruction. The problem I'm having is the car won't start now, just cranks. I did a scan with vagcom and it did come up with camshaft position sensor intermittent reading. Could that be the cause or did I mess up in setting timing marks. I only paid attention to TDC at the camshaft. The more a read you also have to set crankshaft, but did not see you do that in your videos. I'm I missing something. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
TDC position of the crankshaft needs to be verified before & after the belt is put on... I mentioned it in part 2: th-cam.com/video/gCoFOgIoEoY/w-d-xo.htmlm29s Once the tension of the belt has been adjusted, the engine is truned over by hand 2 full turns of the crankshaft and Camshaft & Crankshaft TDC alignment is rechecked: th-cam.com/video/gCoFOgIoEoY/w-d-xo.htmlm45s If you are lucky, the crankshaft / camshaft timing is only out a little.... reposition camshaft & crankshaft to TDC and install the belt again. If you are not lucky, valves will be bent and the engine will run rough after the camshaft / crankshaft timing is corrected... needing cylinder head removal to repair.
I do. I'm looking at pg15c-15 where it say to turn to TDC and mark pulley with belt guard. But I'm confuse, once you align the crankshaft with the belt guard and the TDC is off on on camshaft how do you get the timing right? Also if I have to take off the Camshaft pulley to replace camshaft position sensor will that change anything? Thanks for your help.
With the belt still attached, turn the engine until the crank pulley or flywheel line up with the TDC mark. If the camshaft sprocket is not at TDC, remove the timing belt and turn the camshaft to TDC. Once they are lined-up, install the belt, tension the belt, turn the engine 2 turns by hand and recheck both TDC positions. If all is ok, continue with assembly.... if not, remove the belt and re-align again. etc If you have to remove the cam sprocket to remove / replace the camshaft position sensor, loosen & remove the camshaft sprocket bolt and slide the sprocket off of the camshaft. A "woodruff-key" is used to align the sprocket to the camshaft... ***don't drop / lose the key*** Simply slide the sprocket back onto the camshaft after the sensor is replaced and tighten the bolt. Loosening or tightening of the camshaft sprocket bolt should only be done while the timing belt is in place... this will ensure that the crankshaft also moves, if you happen to move the camshaft during bolt loosening or tightening... you will need to use a counter hold tool to hold the sprocket while you loosen or tighten the bolt. If you DID NOT have a camshaft position sensor fault code BEFORE you changed the timing belt, then you should not have one AFTER... so in all likelihood, the fault is set due to the camshaft & crankshaft timing not being correct.
Thank you so much for your help! In turning the camshaft always turn clockwise? We will see if I messed anything up when I get it started. The car has been having a some longer cranks to start, when it was at the dealer for diagnosis they said it may have a starting problem, but I never ran a auto-scan on the vagcom. Thank you again for your help and your videos.
probably should have mentioned that when you replace the timing belt the water pump comes in the kit and both should be replaced at the same time - if that was the original pump and the belt had been previously done someone did not do the job. I have bought two new beetles with blown motors from non-replacement of water pumps for future reference.
I should probably mention a lot of stuff in my videos... hindsight is 20/20. Water pumps don't blow engines... people ignoring the temperature warning... that's what kills engines.
unfortunately when the water pump seizes it is attached to the timing belt - which tears all the teeth off of the belt and thus you have the issue described = not trying to be argumentative, but I have two motors with this issue - it is worthwhile to mention that the water pump should be replaced when doing the timing belt - each time it is done?
Sorry, I had a blond moment... only focused on the "loose impeller" issue that the pumps had. Yes... 100% correct. A pump will not last the life of a new timing belt and when it seizes up, will take out the timing belt. Again, sorry. I record while I work, so I keep the talking to a minimum. When editing videos, I focus more on the editing that the "what should I add" (helpful information). I reply to all comments and when people ask me about the pump or if a pump comes with the kit, I tell them... but stuff does get missed, I'm only human. Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers. I'm sure that future viewers of this video / readers of the posts, will find your information helpful. As do I (after getting over my blond moment). I've not come across seized pumps yet... noisy, many times. We always replace them (unless the customer does not want it) as seen in my videos... so people should get the impression that it's a good thing to do.
Not a problem - this is not really a job for a back yard mechanic - sadly the two motors I mentioned were done in a "reputable garage" that I think were not familiar with Volkswagen motors and tried to shortcut them. Would like to see if anyone else has had the same issue, as I am hoping these are isolated issues - but when you mentioned the water pump looked original on this motor - well that was a red flag for me. I will definitely send you my address. I like your videos they are very helpful for some of the stuff I am doing. I could use a video on how to remove the top half of the driver side fender for these guys, but I am slowly figuring it out.
Thank you so much ,nice video. One more question if you don't mind, what is the suitable drill bit used for when you move the tensioner pulley to remove the belt near the beginning of the video?
+Dave Monahan If you have a drill bit set... just try one after the other until you find one that fits. You don't need to insert a bit / tool to remove the belt... or to install it. If you do not use a bit / tool, you will just have to use a wrench again before you can mount the belt. It is only a "convenience" factor.
hey Thomas, so I keep watching videos on how to do the Timing Belt, including yours, and i keep seeing mechanics marking the TDC on the camshaft. I understand the purpose, but what I don't understand is how to find the right place to mark. is there something I should look for that would direct me to it? VW Golf 2.0L AEG
Romeo Alvarado The camshaft sprocket will have an O and a T on the outer face of the sprocket... with a belt tooth gap between the two. You will want to turn the engine by hand until the O/T is at about the 12 O'clock position. You will see an alignment mark on the engine (other side of the pulley) to which you align the middle of the O/T. The crankshaft TDC is best seen at the transmission / flywheel inspection hole. I'll see if I can find some info & will post a link for you later today.
Hi exo. Listen maybe my question not related to video.. but i can't find a video on a coolant flush for jetta A5 ..your library got so big now that i lost track ! .. thanks for making your channel a top choice resource !
+markman63 Hold the center crank bolt with an off-set 19mm wrench ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51O3w4PyTyL._SY355_.jpg and then loosen the allen bolts. If one of the bolts is already stripped, tap an M8 triple square www.metalnerd.com/images/products/cat05/mnxz8s.jpg into the bolt head and break it loos like that. If the M8 triple square also strips out... use an extractor socket i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-4f7b/k2-_92e7ed8c-6dc3-4237-90cf-dbd9101ed0a6.v1.jpg of the correct size to grab the outside of the bolt head for removal.
Piotr K You need a counter hold tool like this: www.kingtony.com/upload/product_images/9AT3-A01_s2.jpg but be careful of the camshaft position sensor shutter wheel that might be part of / behind the camshaft sprocket.
+Dave Monahan We usually install Hepu timing belt kit... most VW / Audi online parts stores will stock kits that are of good quality, so order from one of them. www.germanautoparts.com/ www.idparts.com/ www.ecstuning.com/ www.blauparts.com/ shopdap.com/ and many others.
Great video showing how to replace the belt. I’m using this as a reference to replace a water pump. The tensioner and belt look like they’re in perfect condition - can I get away with just replacing the pump or will I need to do all of the parts? Thanks
How old (time & miles)? Yes you can just do the pump... a coolant contaminated belt may not last as long as a non contaminated belt, keep that in mind.
Thomas EXOVCDS 143334 miles. Bought in 2012, sat until about four or five months ago when I began work on it. Was told a family member put water in the coolant reservoir and they believed it busted the plastic impellers in the pump. Also - where can I pick up a vacuum tube like you showed in part two?
+MrStealYoKnives I recommend replacing the belt between 70k & 90k miles... 6 years or 120k km's. By belt I mean belt, water pump & tensioner kit. For the vacuum cleaner? I'd have to check which tube you mean. The shop vac comes with a nice tube. Sometimes I insert a small hose in the tip of the shop vac for small / hard to reach areas.
hello, so i have a question. The person i bought my 99 beetle from says her father changed the timing belt and water pump a year ago. And a week ago it started over heating and leaking coolant, i cant drive down the street to the market without all the coolant leaking out by the time i get out the store and get back in the car to go home? Would it be the water pump again? Or can this be something else? Where it leaks its coming down from the oil pan.
LORI SANCHEZ there are several things that could cause coolant to leak / drip from the oil pan. If you have leaks... you need to solve / fix them first. Then you can run the engine to see if there is an overheating issue. Either the leaks are causing the overheating or the overheating caused the leaks. Follow the leaks to their source... fix them and let me know if the thermostat opens & the radiator fans come on.
+Philip Ramos $500 to $800? This is Canadian currency... my best guess. The kit is maybe $200 the rest is labor. Camshaft or crankshaft seal is is extra part & labor, crankshaft sprocket bolt needs to be replaced if removed (one time use stretch bolt).
Help, my mechanic also mounted the tensioner the other way around, should I change it so its mounted in the hole? is it possible to change the tensioner position without removing the engine mount, by the top timing cover?
Hey Thomas, Love your videos. I recently installed new belt and pump. but the belt is tracking on the outside edge is there a way to fix this? or is this normal?
Hey Thomas. Awesome vid. I know close to nothing about fixing cars so I probably wont be doing this job myself just yet. I had a question. I have a 2000 new beetle 2.0L, at what mileage should the time belt and water pump be changed? Currently have about 95K miles on it. Thanks!
Philip Ramos I usually suggest 6yrs or 120k km (75k miles)... I have seen many fail with less mileage (due to age). Always keep the age in mind! You are pushing it with a belt that is 15 years old. Replacing a belt & water pump kit, is cheaper than replacing bent valves.
***** Ok I'll definitely look to getting it them changed asap. I wasn't the original owner. My wife got the car back in '08 or '09 so the belt may have potentially been changed. Let's just say hypothetically it hasn't been changed for 15 years. Is it uncommon for a belt to last this long?
Philip Ramos I'm sure there are some that have lasted longer (miles / years)... even if 100k miles were the "suggested" interval, I would never wait that long. In most cases water pumps fail before the belt does. The recommendation is just a recommendation... I like to be on the safe side and replace things a little early. As you can see from the following link, VW says to "check" the belt every 40k miles (2.0l), but does not list when to replace. wiki.bentleypublishers.com/display/tech/Maintenance+Schedule+-+2000+-+New+Beetle The 1.8T belt is listed as being replaced at around 100k... but again, I have seen them fail earlier! th-cam.com/video/LlaSyixDXIM/w-d-xo.html
I have 2.0 beetle 2004 and on start up this morning the belt jump time and smoke came from under the hood..I was told it damaged head and pistons.is this true?
Possibly... reposition the belt / replace the belt (make sure to position the camshaft & crankshaft to TDC correctly) and see how it runs. If it runs smoothly, you are lucky. If it runs rough, do a compression test... it may have bent some valves.
I have been told these are what are know as "zero tolerance motors" if the timing belt is not installed correctly - or as you say jumped time - you most likely have bent the valves and possibly destroyed the top of the pistons. You are looking at an engine rebuild most likely - or replacing the motor which according to how you shop around may be cheaper?
Hi, ok so i changed the water pump and the kit came with a new belt changed that to. put everything back together and it doesnt sound right? the car is making some weird sound? have not actually test drove the car yet its still up on the jacks and have not put tire on just in case i have to take a part again. Any suggestions?
Thomas EXOVCDS I will record the noise tomorrow and send video, with the old water pump. The leak was coming from the water pump which is why i got the new one, before didnt know where the leak was coming from but sense it was dripping down the oil pan. The old water pump was plastic, new one pit in is metal. Was having trouble getting this piece in not sure the name of it but i will show in video. Thank you for all your help and responses. Id like to add, during the process i didnt have the pins that hold the camshaft in place. And not sure if its a huge difference but the top part of timing belt was a little off and i turned it from the top not the bottom?
Tony Mullins The support bridge is nice... but can also get in the way. There are times when I just put a block of wood under the oil pan to keep the engine in position. The bridge is nice because I can raise or lower the car without worry.
Pretty much the same... except for the tensioner setup. Cam & crank line up the same way (cam with a notch in the valve cover, and the crank bolt holes one at 12 and one at 6 O'clock). Less room to place / position the tensioner and roller... but overall, similar setup / function.
Brendan Cunningham The ones that screw with me a little, are the ones where the rotor is not locked to the hub. You put the wheel on the hub and then slightly rotate the wheel... and WTF, the rotor & hub bolt holes don't line-up anymore. Maybe you are talking about those specifically... you just need to be gentle with those. Luckily, most rotors are locked to the hub.
I absolutely adore you!
Literally every issue I am having with my 2000 beetle 2.0L, you have covered... right up to this video. As a woman, I have been ripped off one too many times by repair shops; you have empowered me so freaking much!!
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
rutalkn2moi I'm happy to hear that my videos have been on help to you!
Mr. Thomas. Normally I repair computers and thanks to his videos I've been able to change the water pump my old beetle. Without their help it would have been impossible. I owe you one.
Infinitely grateful.
Mig Rgm Good to hear that you were able to change it! Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
Thank Thomas (again) for saving my arse lol. This past Tuesday, the low coolant light came on soon as I got to work. I thought, "No biggie, I'll just top it off". By the time I got back home after work, the light came on and the reservoir was bone dry again. I jacked up the car and seen pink crust on the lower timing cover, then leading to the bottom of the crankshaft pulley. I pulled off the upper cover to see my worst nightmare, coolant all around the water pump pulley, which also started to eat away at the timing belt. After watching this video, it gave me the confidence to go out and buy the parts, took two days off from work (just in case) and began wrenching away. I took my time, cleaned up everything thoroughly before install the new tb, tensioner and water pump. Just got done a few hours ago, and now my daily (mk4 Golf) runs better than ever, even at 160k miles. The engine purrrrs like a kitten, with no leaks after full warm up, under pressure and after a 5 mile test drive. So thanks again man, I was really dredging the job as I was not about to fork over at least $1000 for a mechanic to fix it. You've saved me time, money, and a lot of headaches!!
Hi... thank you for watching & sharing your DIY experience. Nice to hear that my videos have been of help!
WOW! You are the most professional and top notch mechanic I have viewed in a long time! Keep up the videos. You make it look like a walk in the park. :)
I'm a preventative maintenance mechanic... just regular servicing stuff. Have lots to learn still. Thank you for watching!
This and part two gave me all the confidence to do this myself on my AEG Beetle; It took me a little longer than here :-). Like on this car the bozo before installed the tensioner wrong. The tab was at the 3 o'clock position no where near the frost plug and slightly bent. The belt was on pretty tight so it was a good thing I decided to do this as a regular maintenance thing. This series and Schrodingers Box's "proper tensioning" video are pretty much all you need for this as a DIY. I highly recommend using the overhead engine support.Thank you so much for your excellent channel.
+evilhomer2112 Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!
Great Work on this production Thomas. You shined a light on mis installation my of Cam tensioner. Most of the bolts were over torqued by whomever worked on this bug before. The vibration dampner was tightend with an impact wrench. I had to use MAC bold extractor kit to remove. The water pump bolts were rounded off. I'm waiting for the bolts for the dampner and water pump from VW to start re assembly. I'm a little rusty but watching you work brought me back to reality. Thanks again.. Chuck
Thank you for watching... I don't record everything / some things are not in the view of the camera, so if anything ever needs clarifying... just let me know.
Will do...appreciate it.
Man I can tell that you're a Great Technician keep the vids coming we appreciate it!
Thank you for watching!
Third video I have watched from you. You saved me a lot and I mean a lot of time.
Nice to hear... thank you for watching!
I'll be doing this repair next week on our 2001 Beetle. Glad to see listed are the tools, as most of mine are the older SAE tools from back in the 'day'. A few metrics floating around the box, looks like I'll have to invest in a new set (good excuse to buy more tools!). Ours according to the last owner was done at 80,000 miles. And ours is approaching the 160k mark (158k.) Not going to bother to inspect, replacing it and the water pump isn't to much $$.
We'll be trying out a new 'trick', when last we worked on power flushing the green coolant out (yuck..) we found the heater core had a heck of an air pocket. I'm going to see if the hose pinch-off pliers can help prevent the same problem. That stinker didn't want to burp that pocket out for all the tea in China!
Good luck... let me know how it went. Thanks for watching!
Thank Thomas, just finished replacing timing belt, water pump and thermostat per your instruction. great step by step easy to follow instruction. The problem I'm having is the car won't start now, just cranks. I did a scan with vagcom and it did come up with camshaft position sensor intermittent reading. Could that be the cause or did I mess up in setting timing marks. I only paid attention to TDC at the camshaft. The more a read you also have to set crankshaft, but did not see you do that in your videos. I'm I missing something. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
TDC position of the crankshaft needs to be verified before & after the belt is put on... I mentioned it in part 2: th-cam.com/video/gCoFOgIoEoY/w-d-xo.htmlm29s Once the tension of the belt has been adjusted, the engine is truned over by hand 2 full turns of the crankshaft and Camshaft & Crankshaft TDC alignment is rechecked: th-cam.com/video/gCoFOgIoEoY/w-d-xo.htmlm45s
If you are lucky, the crankshaft / camshaft timing is only out a little.... reposition camshaft & crankshaft to TDC and install the belt again.
If you are not lucky, valves will be bent and the engine will run rough after the camshaft / crankshaft timing is corrected... needing cylinder head removal to repair.
The service manual shows crankshaft TDC marks on the flywheel & crank pulley... you have a service manual, yes?
I do. I'm looking at pg15c-15 where it say to turn to TDC and mark pulley with belt guard. But I'm confuse, once you align the crankshaft with the belt guard and the TDC is off on on camshaft how do you get the timing right? Also if I have to take off the Camshaft pulley to replace camshaft position sensor will that change anything?
Thanks for your help.
With the belt still attached, turn the engine until the crank pulley or flywheel line up with the TDC mark. If the camshaft sprocket is not at TDC, remove the timing belt and turn the camshaft to TDC. Once they are lined-up, install the belt, tension the belt, turn the engine 2 turns by hand and recheck both TDC positions. If all is ok, continue with assembly.... if not, remove the belt and re-align again. etc
If you have to remove the cam sprocket to remove / replace the camshaft position sensor, loosen & remove the camshaft sprocket bolt and slide the sprocket off of the camshaft. A "woodruff-key" is used to align the sprocket to the camshaft... ***don't drop / lose the key***
Simply slide the sprocket back onto the camshaft after the sensor is replaced and tighten the bolt.
Loosening or tightening of the camshaft sprocket bolt should only be done while the timing belt is in place... this will ensure that the crankshaft also moves, if you happen to move the camshaft during bolt loosening or tightening... you will need to use a counter hold tool to hold the sprocket while you loosen or tighten the bolt.
If you DID NOT have a camshaft position sensor fault code BEFORE you changed the timing belt, then you should not have one AFTER... so in all likelihood, the fault is set due to the camshaft & crankshaft timing not being correct.
Thank you so much for your help! In turning the camshaft always turn clockwise? We will see if I messed anything up when I get it started.
The car has been having a some longer cranks to start, when it was at the dealer for diagnosis they said it may have a starting problem, but I never ran a auto-scan on the vagcom.
Thank you again for your help and your videos.
probably should have mentioned that when you replace the timing belt the water pump comes in the kit and both should be replaced at the same time - if that was the original pump and the belt had been previously done someone did not do the job. I have bought two new beetles with blown motors from non-replacement of water pumps for future reference.
I should probably mention a lot of stuff in my videos... hindsight is 20/20.
Water pumps don't blow engines... people ignoring the temperature warning... that's what kills engines.
unfortunately when the water pump seizes it is attached to the timing belt - which tears all the teeth off of the belt and thus you have the issue described = not trying to be argumentative, but I have two motors with this issue - it is worthwhile to mention that the water pump should be replaced when doing the timing belt - each time it is done?
Sorry, I had a blond moment... only focused on the "loose impeller" issue that the pumps had.
Yes... 100% correct. A pump will not last the life of a new timing belt and when it seizes up, will take out the timing belt. Again, sorry. I record while I work, so I keep the talking to a minimum. When editing videos, I focus more on the editing that the "what should I add" (helpful information). I reply to all comments and when people ask me about the pump or if a pump comes with the kit, I tell them... but stuff does get missed, I'm only human. Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers. I'm sure that future viewers of this video / readers of the posts, will find your information helpful. As do I (after getting over my blond moment). I've not come across seized pumps yet... noisy, many times. We always replace them (unless the customer does not want it) as seen in my videos... so people should get the impression that it's a good thing to do.
Not a problem - this is not really a job for a back yard mechanic - sadly the two motors I mentioned were done in a "reputable garage" that I think were not familiar with Volkswagen motors and tried to shortcut them. Would like to see if anyone else has had the same issue, as I am hoping these are isolated issues - but when you mentioned the water pump looked original on this motor - well that was a red flag for me. I will definitely send you my address. I like your videos they are very helpful for some of the stuff I am doing. I could use a video on how to remove the top half of the driver side fender for these guys, but I am slowly figuring it out.
Thank you so much ,nice video. One more question if you don't mind, what is the suitable drill bit used for when you move the tensioner pulley to remove the belt near the beginning of the video?
+Dave Monahan If you have a drill bit set... just try one after the other until you find one that fits. You don't need to insert a bit / tool to remove the belt... or to install it. If you do not use a bit / tool, you will just have to use a wrench again before you can mount the belt. It is only a "convenience" factor.
I see! Thank you for the repllies, much appreciated, I just bought a Jetta and would like to change the belt myself.
+Dave Monahan Your BEV engine should be the same as this: fkh161.ca/VW/AEGTiming.pdf
hey Thomas, so I keep watching videos on how to do the Timing Belt, including yours, and i keep seeing mechanics marking the TDC on the camshaft. I understand the purpose, but what I don't understand is how to find the right place to mark. is there something I should look for that would direct me to it? VW Golf 2.0L AEG
Romeo Alvarado The camshaft sprocket will have an O and a T on the outer face of the sprocket... with a belt tooth gap between the two. You will want to turn the engine by hand until the O/T is at about the 12 O'clock position. You will see an alignment mark on the engine (other side of the pulley) to which you align the middle of the O/T. The crankshaft TDC is best seen at the transmission / flywheel inspection hole. I'll see if I can find some info & will post a link for you later today.
Romeo Alvarado Check your youtube messages... I just sent you a link.
Hi exo. Listen maybe my question not related to video.. but i can't find a video on a coolant flush for jetta A5 ..your library got so big now that i lost track ! .. thanks for making your channel a top choice resource !
pedvag10 Thanks for the kind words! Don't have an A5 flush video yet, sorry.
Any tips on how to get the allen bolts from the crankshaft pulley? I don't have an air impact wrench and already broke an allen wrench.
+markman63 Hold the center crank bolt with an off-set 19mm wrench ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51O3w4PyTyL._SY355_.jpg and then loosen the allen bolts. If one of the bolts is already stripped, tap an M8 triple square www.metalnerd.com/images/products/cat05/mnxz8s.jpg into the bolt head and break it loos like that. If the M8 triple square also strips out... use an extractor socket i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-4f7b/k2-_92e7ed8c-6dc3-4237-90cf-dbd9101ed0a6.v1.jpg of the correct size to grab the outside of the bolt head for removal.
Hi Thomas. Could you give me some tip how to block cranshaft? I want to replace cranshaft seal, so a I need to unscrew pulley bolt". (2.0 AQY)
Piotr K You need a counter hold tool like this: www.kingtony.com/upload/product_images/9AT3-A01_s2.jpg but be careful of the camshaft position sensor shutter wheel that might be part of / behind the camshaft sprocket.
Hello, I'm new to the VW world, can you tell me if the motor in this video would be the same as a 2.0 in a 2007 Jetta City?? Thank you
+Dave Monahan Yes, I believe it is.
Can you tell what brand you use to replace these parts, pump, tensioner and belt? Thank you!
+Dave Monahan We usually install Hepu timing belt kit... most VW / Audi online parts stores will stock kits that are of good quality, so order from one of them.
www.germanautoparts.com/
www.idparts.com/
www.ecstuning.com/
www.blauparts.com/
shopdap.com/ and many others.
going to do this job on my jetta 2.0 soon thank you tom
Thank you for watching! If you have any questions or run into any issues... let me know!
Great video showing how to replace the belt. I’m using this as a reference to replace a water pump. The tensioner and belt look like they’re in perfect condition - can I get away with just replacing the pump or will I need to do all of the parts? Thanks
How old (time & miles)?
Yes you can just do the pump... a coolant contaminated belt may not last as long as a non contaminated belt, keep that in mind.
Thomas EXOVCDS 143334 miles. Bought in 2012, sat until about four or five months ago when I began work on it. Was told a family member put water in the coolant reservoir and they believed it busted the plastic impellers in the pump. Also - where can I pick up a vacuum tube like you showed in part two?
+MrStealYoKnives I recommend replacing the belt between 70k & 90k miles... 6 years or 120k km's. By belt I mean belt, water pump & tensioner kit. For the vacuum cleaner? I'd have to check which tube you mean. The shop vac comes with a nice tube. Sometimes I insert a small hose in the tip of the shop vac for small / hard to reach areas.
Thomas EXOVCDS Before removing my serpentine tensioner pulley, I forgot to align the holes with an allen. How can I align these outside of the engine?
Mount the tensioner in a vice and then lever the tensioner until the holes line up. Most parts stores will have generic 3mm vacuum hose.
hello, so i have a question. The person i bought my 99 beetle from says her father changed the timing belt and water pump a year ago. And a week ago it started over heating and leaking coolant, i cant drive down the street to the market without all the coolant leaking out by the time i get out the store and get back in the car to go home? Would it be the water pump again? Or can this be something else? Where it leaks its coming down from the oil pan.
LORI SANCHEZ there are several things that could cause coolant to leak / drip from the oil pan. If you have leaks... you need to solve / fix them first. Then you can run the engine to see if there is an overheating issue. Either the leaks are causing the overheating or the overheating caused the leaks. Follow the leaks to their source... fix them and let me know if the thermostat opens & the radiator fans come on.
I know every place is different, but what's a rough estimate on how much it would cost to replace the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump?
+Philip Ramos $500 to $800? This is Canadian currency... my best guess. The kit is maybe $200 the rest is labor. Camshaft or crankshaft seal is is extra part & labor, crankshaft sprocket bolt needs to be replaced if removed (one time use stretch bolt).
Du you got a videos with TDI CR passat 2010 model timimg belt job
Pawel Turkiewicz Not yet, sorry.
Help, my mechanic also mounted the tensioner the other way around, should I change it so its mounted in the hole? is it possible to change the tensioner position without removing the engine mount, by the top timing cover?
The lower bracket is in the way... you can not remove the tensioner when the bracket is in place.
not to remove it but only to rotate it to mount it in the hole, i think there is a little gap.
Diego Sepu Sorry... yes, that's OK. Loosen the 13mm nut and then reposition the tensioner, adjust the belt tension and tighten the nut.
Hey Thomas, Love your videos. I recently installed new belt and pump. but the belt is tracking on the outside edge is there a way to fix this? or is this normal?
Make sure that the tensioner locking leg is seated correctly in the frost plug of the cylinder head.
Hey Thomas. Awesome vid. I know close to nothing about fixing cars so I probably wont be doing this job myself just yet. I had a question. I have a 2000 new beetle 2.0L, at what mileage should the time belt and water pump be changed? Currently have about 95K miles on it. Thanks!
Philip Ramos I usually suggest 6yrs or 120k km (75k miles)... I have seen many fail with less mileage (due to age). Always keep the age in mind! You are pushing it with a belt that is 15 years old. Replacing a belt & water pump kit, is cheaper than replacing bent valves.
***** Ok I'll definitely look to getting it them changed asap. I wasn't the original owner. My wife got the car back in '08 or '09 so the belt may have potentially been changed. Let's just say hypothetically it hasn't been changed for 15 years. Is it uncommon for a belt to last this long?
Philip Ramos I'm sure there are some that have lasted longer (miles / years)... even if 100k miles were the "suggested" interval, I would never wait that long. In most cases water pumps fail before the belt does. The recommendation is just a recommendation... I like to be on the safe side and replace things a little early. As you can see from the following link, VW says to "check" the belt every 40k miles (2.0l), but does not list when to replace. wiki.bentleypublishers.com/display/tech/Maintenance+Schedule+-+2000+-+New+Beetle
The 1.8T belt is listed as being replaced at around 100k... but again, I have seen them fail earlier!
th-cam.com/video/LlaSyixDXIM/w-d-xo.html
***** Cool. Thanks for the suggestion. I'd definitely rather be safe than sorry! Peace.
I have 2.0 beetle 2004 and on start up this morning the belt jump time and smoke came from under the hood..I was told it damaged head and pistons.is this true?
Possibly... reposition the belt / replace the belt (make sure to position the camshaft & crankshaft to TDC correctly) and see how it runs. If it runs smoothly, you are lucky. If it runs rough, do a compression test... it may have bent some valves.
I have been told these are what are know as "zero tolerance motors" if the timing belt is not installed correctly - or as you say jumped time - you most likely have bent the valves and possibly destroyed the top of the pistons. You are looking at an engine rebuild most likely - or replacing the motor which according to how you shop around may be cheaper?
Hi, ok so i changed the water pump and the kit came with a new belt changed that to. put everything back together and it doesnt sound right? the car is making some weird sound? have not actually test drove the car yet its still up on the jacks and have not put tire on just in case i have to take a part again. Any suggestions?
I need to hear the sound. Is the belt too tight? Is it running smooth or rough? Was the pump broken?
Thomas EXOVCDS I will record the noise tomorrow and send video, with the old water pump. The leak was coming from the water pump which is why i got the new one, before didnt know where the leak was coming from but sense it was dripping down the oil pan. The old water pump was plastic, new one pit in is metal. Was having trouble getting this piece in not sure the name of it but i will show in video. Thank you for all your help and responses. Id like to add, during the process i didnt have the pins that hold the camshaft in place. And not sure if its a huge difference but the top part of timing belt was a little off and i turned it from the top not the bottom?
is there any chance you can tell me where is the location of the plug so i can check the "flywheels tdc marking"
Standard or automatic transmission?
i.imgur.com/TNR9PFQ.jpg
Thomas EXOVCDS automatic trans. thank you sir,i saw the image.
would you say the timing belt is easier or harder then replacing the clutch?
If you can change a clutch... you can change a timing belt!
Thomas EXOVCDS man I wish I had one of those Handy engine holder. unlike my jack a 2x4. I might have to make one now watching you do this lol.
Tony Mullins The support bridge is nice... but can also get in the way. There are times when I just put a block of wood under the oil pan to keep the engine in position. The bridge is nice because I can raise or lower the car without worry.
Oh man I was so excited until I realized its a 2.0L. I have a 1.8T NB and need to do the timing belt soon. How similar is the job?
Pretty much the same... except for the tensioner setup. Cam & crank line up the same way (cam with a notch in the valve cover, and the crank bolt holes one at 12 and one at 6 O'clock). Less room to place / position the tensioner and roller... but overall, similar setup / function.
Is it ok to use Zerex G40 on my 99 beetle? The guy at ohreileys gave me that one and said it was ok to use on my car being they disnt have G12.
I'm not familiar with that brand... I looked at a google image (search) of it. It says it's for VW G12++, so yes, should be OK.
Thomas EXOVCDS Thank you for all your help, I really appreciate it. 😊
nice video, do you happen to know the part numbers for the two fuel lines going to the regulator?
+Markus R It is best to order parts according to / with the vehicle vin number.
Thanks
Thank you for watching!
is there a secret to putting on wheels on euro cars without looking dumb, i sit there fighting the wheel half the time. (unless its a steelie)
Brendan Cunningham Nope... lift, place, insert bolt. Year, make, model?
pretty much any VW, audi, Mercedes
Brendan Cunningham The ones that screw with me a little, are the ones where the rotor is not locked to the hub. You put the wheel on the hub and then slightly rotate the wheel... and WTF, the rotor & hub bolt holes don't line-up anymore.
Maybe you are talking about those specifically... you just need to be gentle with those. Luckily, most rotors are locked to the hub.
tanks for help nice job
john m almeida Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
helmet cam? good idea
Video glasses.
+Thomas EXOVCDS cool beans!
thank you for the quick response and help. Your videos are very helpful
man, I'm glad I'm not buying this type of vehicle, no room to work on.
Good luck with any vehicle 2000 or newer.