For those who prefer the steps in writing like me: - in Edit Mode, Select -> Select Sharp Edges, the default 30 degrees is fine - you can remove one side of seam on chamfers - merge islands where the faces are a continuous loop or strip (remove all but one seam for loops) - check for any edges in the selection that seem disconnected/out of place/don't need it
As someone who did UV unwrapping 20 years ago, this seam workflow is incredible. I imagine for a lot of people they just struggle with this for a long time until it becomes intuitive, but you are such a good teacher breaking down the technique into simple to follow steps. Thank you!
I was there, I remember. *vietman flashbacks* Oh gawd! Back then UV unwrap was one of the hardest things to wrap your head around as a newbie and the tools where none existent. I love seeing all the newer additions and methods that lets the person create.
Comment regarding contiguous sets of faces for production art: For game development, texture memory footprint is an important value to keep within budget. The fewer smoothing groups and seams you have, the larger your normal map size will be due to baking gradients to translate between the high and low mesh normal data. Your textures get compressed, downscaled, and mipped, which means they have less data in them to translate baked detail into the low poly's mesh normals. For example: Create a cube, bevel all of its edges enough so that it servers as a high poly mesh. Create a second cube, set it to a single smoothing group (all soft edges) UV it with a single shell or multiple - it does not matter. Bake a normal map. Repeat the process but set each side to its own smoothing group, cut the seams and give padding to each shell as appropriate for managing smoothing groups. Bake a normal map. Check the file size for each normal map. The one with gradients (single smoothing group) is much larger. The game res mesh needs those gradients to preserve the visual quality of the high poly, but those normal maps are going to be pushed through various compression methods and still contribute to more budget than they need to. Minimizing gradients through keeping smoothing groups at ~30* angles will keep your asset looking good after compression because it needs less normal map information to translate between high poly baked normals and its own low poly normals. Also, take a shape similar to the one in the video with a long strip of contiguous faces and cut a single edge to make a long shell. Bake that result and get into a texturing tool like Substance Painter. Set the metallic to 100% and the roughness to 0%. Observe the faces where plane shifts occur and you will see triangulation distortion in the bake. This is because that single smoothing group is having to calculate plane shifts across the mesh with more than 360* worth of angles and bake the needed gradients into a texture. Increasing that texture resolution will help make them less noticeable, but we don't always have the ability to use 4k+. Setting smoothing groups to acute and right angles and massaging the rest with ~30* (the sneaky ones) will help reduce those artifacts and give you a cost effective bake that looks good after compression. Also, your largest UV shell will dictate texel density. If you're seeing a lot of unused space, you may want to find some more edges to cut along plane shifts, scale a shell down in a single axis if that surface allows (swords, barrels), or add other objects to that texture set. Sorry for the wall of text, but these are things senior artists and hiring teams look for when recruiting, so I figured I'd share.
@@munishwarank4263 Smoothing groups is a 3ds Max term, its been a while since I used it, so someone correct me if I am wrong, but basically: *Smoothing Groups* are the equivalent of Autosmooth/mark sharp, in blender. Everything else is just general modeling/texturing terms.
That cleared up so much. I usually just follow along with instructors where they're telling me to mark seams now I know why the seam placement is so important. Thank You.
UV unwrapping has always been the hardest and most dull part of 3D modelling for me, especially with complicated shapes like fancy sword pommels. That's because I was terrible at seam placement. This video has renewed my confidence to go back and fix those embarrassing messes I call UVs. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thank you for the best tutorial on the entire internet. This made me understand something I was thinking to be too complicated, but now makes perfect sense. Appreciate it!
My man is Always dropping that highly educational video for us to absorb into the tissue of our brains. thanks for the video man. You have a stellar month.
Thanks for the vid man! UVs are mostly skipped by beginners/intermediate users (most of the poeple rely on automatic UVs/smart unwrap), people think its not worth their time, its not gonna help with the quality etc, or most of the people find it hard to learn. but let me tell you one thing, it's the part that can take your model from 1 to 10 sometimes, and it's the easiest part in the Prop creation pipeline. Best way to learn it is to analyze different situations/models and by practicing ofcourse.
I used to use smart uv projects as that was what most tutorials were showing. Truth is, it’s a nice quick way to test textures and results, but in terms of quality of unwraps, it simply isn’t there. Manual work takes longer, but always delivers better results, which is why I love this method since it always works for hard surface meshes
@@JoshGambrell maybe someone can improve the smart unwrapping algorithm by effectively applying your 4 steps in this video in an algorithm inside blender. I don't see any reason they couldn't effectively be automated, but would need a slightly more procedural approach ideally from the start instead of ending up "looking for redundant seams" for example
Thanks, great explanation as always! I started to unwrap my models in a very early stage, before I bevel edges or add any other Details. Tools like Bevel, Insert Faces and Edge Slide won't destroy your UV. Tipp: press GG for Edge Slide, then Alt and you can move the edge or vertex in the opposite direction, to make the face bigger without streching the UV map.
Where you were 3 years ago :( you are very good teacher. Ps. For those who not understand uvs, my advice: try training placing uvs with baking normals. On practice you will know were place the seams.
Thank you so much, this video really help me to improve my uv time and performance. Still have some un-proportional form sometimes. but Its seam to be fix when i reset the scale of the model most of the time. peace to all
That's a good way of doing things, works well in most instances. I have to unwrap a complex car with lots of engine parts, so this will save a load of time, thanks re the distorted rings blender can be a bit weird on that as sometimes I want to have rings, not a split cap and a side wall , so then I have to change the unwrap method to or from 'angle based' or 'conformal' if it looks skewed with one of the methods, change to the other. it can still be flakey though. I have a piece where every ring came out perfect, apart from one and there is no reason , reset the scale, welded any stray points etc
Excellent video. I remember back in the day, where this process was so tedious and unintuitive that many people would prefer to have their teeth pulled out. Like everything in in 3d modeling it has come a long way but it doesn't get the recognition it deserves.
Quality content all the time! I think i started following you at around 20K keep it up bro, algo will soon pick you up even better and youll skyrocket!
I will have to try out this method sometime, though I haven't modelled anything complex enough to really bother using this. But if I have no idea where to start UV unwrapping, this is something I will definitely use.
I keep coming back to this one. It's pure #Gold . So well and in a calm manner explained. Thank you! You did make me love UV-work. #Blender #3d #3dmodeling #3dtexturing
ADDITIONAL TIP: regarding "rings" on the menu bar, go to "overlays" (the button dropdown with the intersecting solid/hollow circle on it) and enable "display stretch" any rings you might have will be SUPER obvious. Often times, I'll just select an edge that cuts through the ring, ctrl+E, m (edge menu, and "m" for me marks the seam). Gets rid of them quickly during live unwrap.
Seams. Seams I always feared the most: "yoU ShOULd aLwAyS PLaCe SeAMs wHeRE tHE obsErVer WoN't NoTICE" and since this philosophy was so deeply ingrained in my younger psyche, I always tried to make it work like this and It ALWAYS lead to failure. Because I believed when it came to texturing the misplaced seams would make the model look like ass And then came Substance painter with its triplanar projection.... Josh, thank you. Being the man who's knowledge I have deep respect for, your videos showed me that its ok to go wild with the seams, its ok to not have to figure out the perfect way to unwrap the damned thing. If only I found your UV videos sooner.
What I find confusing in game companies they say you should cut the cluter after 90 dergees only for lowpoly, whereas from my tests it's about 30 degrees. And for organic you don't cut those at all if having smooth shapes, and the lowpoly is angular
►► Learn Hard Surface Modeling in Blender in Under 2 Weeks - www.blenderbros.com/?el=jg
For those who prefer the steps in writing like me:
- in Edit Mode, Select -> Select Sharp Edges, the default 30 degrees is fine
- you can remove one side of seam on chamfers
- merge islands where the faces are a continuous loop or strip (remove all but one seam for loops)
- check for any edges in the selection that seem disconnected/out of place/don't need it
Yes great brief written version
OMG THANK YOU!! Im so sick of people over explaining things.
As someone who did UV unwrapping 20 years ago, this seam workflow is incredible. I imagine for a lot of people they just struggle with this for a long time until it becomes intuitive, but you are such a good teacher breaking down the technique into simple to follow steps. Thank you!
i have problem far 12 years with down UV.
20 years ago these tools did not exist: D was all manual. ;)
I was there, I remember. *vietman flashbacks* Oh gawd! Back then UV unwrap was one of the hardest things to wrap your head around as a newbie and the tools where none existent. I love seeing all the newer additions and methods that lets the person create.
@@Norman_Peterson maya ejem, maya
@@Norman_Peterson man i just started modeling a year ago
Comment regarding contiguous sets of faces for production art:
For game development, texture memory footprint is an important value to keep within budget. The fewer smoothing groups and seams you have, the larger your normal map size will be due to baking gradients to translate between the high and low mesh normal data. Your textures get compressed, downscaled, and mipped, which means they have less data in them to translate baked detail into the low poly's mesh normals.
For example:
Create a cube, bevel all of its edges enough so that it servers as a high poly mesh. Create a second cube, set it to a single smoothing group (all soft edges) UV it with a single shell or multiple - it does not matter. Bake a normal map.
Repeat the process but set each side to its own smoothing group, cut the seams and give padding to each shell as appropriate for managing smoothing groups. Bake a normal map.
Check the file size for each normal map. The one with gradients (single smoothing group) is much larger.
The game res mesh needs those gradients to preserve the visual quality of the high poly, but those normal maps are going to be pushed through various compression methods and still contribute to more budget than they need to. Minimizing gradients through keeping smoothing groups at ~30* angles will keep your asset looking good after compression because it needs less normal map information to translate between high poly baked normals and its own low poly normals.
Also, take a shape similar to the one in the video with a long strip of contiguous faces and cut a single edge to make a long shell. Bake that result and get into a texturing tool like Substance Painter. Set the metallic to 100% and the roughness to 0%. Observe the faces where plane shifts occur and you will see triangulation distortion in the bake. This is because that single smoothing group is having to calculate plane shifts across the mesh with more than 360* worth of angles and bake the needed gradients into a texture. Increasing that texture resolution will help make them less noticeable, but we don't always have the ability to use 4k+. Setting smoothing groups to acute and right angles and massaging the rest with ~30* (the sneaky ones) will help reduce those artifacts and give you a cost effective bake that looks good after compression.
Also, your largest UV shell will dictate texel density. If you're seeing a lot of unused space, you may want to find some more edges to cut along plane shifts, scale a shell down in a single axis if that surface allows (swords, barrels), or add other objects to that texture set.
Sorry for the wall of text, but these are things senior artists and hiring teams look for when recruiting, so I figured I'd share.
I had the exact same thought... video is quite misleading. This technique is only good when you do lowpoly models that dont require normal map bake
explain like im a blender user
Please Explain for Blender users
@@munishwarank4263 Smoothing groups is a 3ds Max term, its been a while since I used it, so someone correct me if I am wrong, but basically: *Smoothing Groups* are the equivalent of Autosmooth/mark sharp, in blender.
Everything else is just general modeling/texturing terms.
when you say "The one with gradients (single smoothing group) is much larger" you are referring to a 3d model with 1 segment of bevel?
That cleared up so much. I usually just follow along with instructors where they're telling me to mark seams now I know why the seam placement is so important. Thank You.
I like that you provided a way to automate things and after that, how to apply proper unwrapping techniques to it. Thank you, Josh.
UV unwrapping has always been the hardest and most dull part of 3D modelling for me, especially with complicated shapes like fancy sword pommels. That's because I was terrible at seam placement. This video has renewed my confidence to go back and fix those embarrassing messes I call UVs. Thanks for the tutorial.
I’ve never used those techniques before. Just by watching your video, my perspective of UV editing has completely changed! Thanks. 😎
i love how you focus on the core concepts , you are by far the best teacher i found on the interent, very thankful for your effort.
This is the single most useful tut I've seen this month... and you're absolutely right Josh... essential techniques here. Thanks.
Thank you for the best tutorial on the entire internet. This made me understand something I was thinking to be too complicated, but now makes perfect sense. Appreciate it!
I don't know what it is about this video but it's so easy to absorb and understand the information in it.
Just stellar job really.
"Essential" indeed, thank you Josh for your work and sharing it with us.
Great video, I’ve been procrastinating on getting good at UV unwrapping for awhile but this video really helped me visualize UVs in a new light
My man is Always dropping that highly educational video for us to absorb into the tissue of our brains. thanks for the video man. You have a stellar month.
Thanks bro, you too!
Thanks for the vid man!
UVs are mostly skipped by beginners/intermediate users (most of the poeple rely on automatic UVs/smart unwrap), people think its not worth their time, its not gonna help with the quality etc, or most of the people find it hard to learn.
but let me tell you one thing, it's the part that can take your model from 1 to 10 sometimes, and it's the easiest part in the Prop creation pipeline. Best way to learn it is to analyze different situations/models and by practicing ofcourse.
I used to use smart uv projects as that was what most tutorials were showing. Truth is, it’s a nice quick way to test textures and results, but in terms of quality of unwraps, it simply isn’t there. Manual work takes longer, but always delivers better results, which is why I love this method since it always works for hard surface meshes
If the topology is nice, the uvs are very easy
@@JoshGambrell maybe someone can improve the smart unwrapping algorithm by effectively applying your 4 steps in this video in an algorithm inside blender. I don't see any reason they couldn't effectively be automated, but would need a slightly more procedural approach ideally from the start instead of ending up "looking for redundant seams" for example
Thanks! I learned this at my art class, but this was a great refresher.
Great tutorial, I find your channel more and more useful as I progress. Thank you!
Excellent. This will save me a ton of time. Thank you, from northern England.
Great tutorial, Josh you rock. Many thanks from Nova Scotia.
7:00 Most important analogy to understand uv-unwrapping
Helps a lot. Thanks! I finally understand, where I should place seams or not.
This video was absurdly useful compared to the average Blender tutorial, videos that cover essential basic practices are a blessing
Deserves a like and a comment. Very well instructed. Thank you Josh.
Definitely upped my modeling game watching your videos :D
This was so simple and clear to understand - what and why, with practical examples. Thank you.
Thanks, great explanation as always!
I started to unwrap my models in a very early stage, before I bevel edges or add any other Details. Tools like Bevel, Insert Faces and Edge Slide won't destroy your UV.
Tipp: press GG for Edge Slide, then Alt and you can move the edge or vertex in the opposite direction, to make the face bigger without streching the UV map.
The Bevel modifier does wreck my seams though, it'll turn 1 edge seam into 2 and erroneously try and make all the bevels connected as a UV island.
Where you were 3 years ago :( you are very good teacher. Ps. For those who not understand uvs, my advice: try training placing uvs with baking normals. On practice you will know were place the seams.
simple tips to take u straigght to mastery, u gave us an actual understanding not just steps this is brilliant/ thankyou good buddy
Thank you so much, this video really help me to improve my uv time and performance. Still have some un-proportional form sometimes. but Its seam to be fix when i reset the scale of the model most of the time. peace to all
That's a good way of doing things, works well in most instances. I have to unwrap a complex car with lots of engine parts, so this will save a load of time, thanks
re the distorted rings blender can be a bit weird on that as sometimes I want to have rings, not a split cap and a side wall , so then I have to change the unwrap method to or from 'angle based' or 'conformal'
if it looks skewed with one of the methods, change to the other. it can still be flakey though. I have a piece where every ring came out perfect, apart from one and there is no reason , reset the scale, welded any stray points etc
Great video! Easy and clear explanation. Thanks!
bruh it suddenly looks good. I went through so much pain. Why does it just work? Thank you so much!
Awesome! As a new user of Blender I greatly appreciate this tutorial! You've got me on the right track from the start!
The best instructions on how how to use seams! Thank you! 🔥🙏🏽
This is the best explanation I have seen by far. Thank you so much!
Excellent video. I remember back in the day, where this process was so tedious and unintuitive that many people would prefer to have their teeth pulled out. Like everything in in 3d modeling it has come a long way but it doesn't get the recognition it deserves.
thanks for your efforts, really helpful
Definitively, the single best explanation and intuitive technique for unwrapping in blender 👏🏼
Quality content all the time! I think i started following you at around 20K keep it up bro, algo will soon pick you up even better and youll skyrocket!
Thanks man, yea I’ve seen you around for a while, glad you’re enjoying the vids!!
Bro thanks for this video it’s just what I was looking for
Life saver workflow man!
Super useful!! Already applied these techniques to a UV unwrap.
I will have to try out this method sometime, though I haven't modelled anything complex enough to really bother using this. But if I have no idea where to start UV unwrapping, this is something I will definitely use.
Thank you som much, you made the process and how to do it so much easier
Xcellent advises! Congrats from France.
Thanks a lot ! The video really helped me a lot to get through that damn UV step!
amazing tutorial and explanation thank you!
Thank you...this was easy to follow and just what I needed to know....perfect thanks
Thank you for the video i was so confused about this whole uv stuff it really helped me a lot
this tutorial just made my day thanks easy and effective
Gonna try this. Very simple technique Josh. Nicely explained. 👍
This is great! Thanks for sharing!
Amazing tutorial as always
Extremely valuable info.. I'm actually excited to try this out
Best tutorial on UV's thanks a lot !
FANTASTIC - this really helped me out - a lot!!!! a huge Thank you!!!!
Thank you Josh for this excellent tutorial.
Thanks bro u really solve all my problems. 😍🥳
Very nice tutorial. Thanks!
This was really useful, thank you
Solved a bunch of n00b headaches for me. Thank you.
Great tutorial!!
Very helpful video, subbed and will keep an eye out for other helpful videos, great for beginners and those learning hard surface.
best guide i could get thanks a lot
Thanks, made something that I was struggling with easy!
This video was really helpful😄
I keep coming back to this one. It's pure #Gold . So well and in a calm manner explained. Thank you! You did make me love UV-work. #Blender #3d #3dmodeling #3dtexturing
Thanks bro, definitely gonna try it today
Best tutorial ever !!
Absolutely incredible. Thank you
Thank for this great video👍 Kind of funny, this morning I could use the video and now you have uploaded one
Boom!
This is great guide, thank you
ADDITIONAL TIP: regarding "rings" on the menu bar, go to "overlays" (the button dropdown with the intersecting solid/hollow circle on it) and enable "display stretch" any rings you might have will be SUPER obvious. Often times, I'll just select an edge that cuts through the ring, ctrl+E, m (edge menu, and "m" for me marks the seam). Gets rid of them quickly during live unwrap.
Excellent Tips! Well said!
Thank you for the tips!
now that's what i can call a perfect tutorial on uv's
13 mins and all described appropriately
Very useful, thanks!
Brilliant thanks for the valuable information. 👍
Have you made a video on Optimizing UV space usage? I know some add-ons do it for you but it won't hurt to know how to do it yourself.
STEP BY STEP THANC YOU JOSH
Love the techniques soo much .. helped a lot Thanks a bunch ♥
thanks! what about organic faces any easy triks there ?
love your videos
Thank you !
Great vid as always.
Thanks, very helpful info.
That was really helpful. Thank You So Much❤❤
This is amazing!
How do we get that reference material? Great tutorial!
Thank You
Outstanding!
Thank you, master
Really good tips, but, how do you get it automatically making the UV unwrap after a seam is marked / unmarked?
Live unwrap feature
@@JoshGambrell oh thanks you, I will look at it!
Thank you! This is great.
Seams.
Seams I always feared the most: "yoU ShOULd aLwAyS PLaCe SeAMs wHeRE tHE obsErVer WoN't NoTICE"
and since this philosophy was so deeply ingrained in my younger psyche, I always tried to make it work like this and It ALWAYS lead to failure. Because I believed when it came to texturing the misplaced seams would make the model look like ass
And then came Substance painter with its triplanar projection....
Josh, thank you. Being the man who's knowledge I have deep respect for, your videos showed me that its ok to go wild with the seams, its ok to not have to figure out the perfect way to unwrap the damned thing.
If only I found your UV videos sooner.
Excellent.
Good afternoon.
Can I freely use CREASE in my modeling without harming my UVs?
Thanks.
What I find confusing in game companies they say you should cut the cluter after 90 dergees only for lowpoly, whereas from my tests it's about 30 degrees. And for organic you don't cut those at all if having smooth shapes, and the lowpoly is angular
Thanks Man
You bet!