THIS IS THE ANSWER TO MY BOOST LEVELS. Cheers pumaspeed. Interesting question on the Boost. MAXD Out mapping is load based, not boost based. So, what this means is the ECU is trying to make a calculated torque figure. If the ECU/Map can match this request with only 20psi, it won't push any more. If the car needs more boost to get to the requested torque level it will push up the a preset limit in the mapping. Hopefully that makes a bit more sense :)
Please quickly for me, what was the main Problem. My English is not the best becase i am from Germany and have also Problems with my boost after 4500 rpm. i am right then i say it was a Softwareproblem?
@@PumaG3 Its not a problem, de ecu commands the dv open before full boost because its already at the programmed hp/torque w the small boost built up. So the car has reserves in it, could be pumped to more hp and torque with full boost utilisation
@@Sparkplugsteve oh sh!t mate... worth a look to see if it still there. Great content once again. I had a boost leak problem once. I made a tool to test it. It involved a piece of tube with one end welded shut, two holes drilled in the welded end , one for a car tyre valve, and another with a gauge, removed a turbo boost hose and put the tool in it, then I hooked up an air line to valve and put 10 psi in. found the leak spraying soapy water on the connections. It's a little scrapheap challenge, but it worked.
Also, bear in mind that on a stock turbo setup, most mapping will tail off boost from 5.5k to the top end as the turbo is past peak efficiency, if you tried to hold 1.55 bar to the redline then the turbo WILL go back fairly quickly. Its not the case for all stock turbos however for the most, the above applies. The 1.0 turbos on Superchips mapping will hold 22.5psi from 2k till just before the limiter.
It wasn't boost tailing off that confused me really it was the fact peak boost was hugger up hill compared to flat ground. But I found my answer why and pinned it as the top comment.
@@Sparkplugsteve some maps available for the ST180 from a certain tuner max out the load maps and set a single byte duty cycle limit to control boost. Poor way of doing it and if you fit a stronger actuator or have a boost control issue then the turbo will boost till destruction.
Should of got a Forge.. in response as for why ... I've logged all valves extensively, from measuring real world variables like effect on duty cycle, fuel trims, response time (you can measure the time it takes from the requested opening by the pcm) and even if you get any spikes at the throttle inlet during that time as well as the obvious peak boost number. For me the Forge has proven itself exceptionally reliable when installed correctly, gives the benefits of better part throttle response like the GFB with improved holding everywhere else, it uses a much higher pre-load spring as well as a boost reference signal, doesnt dry out the piston either so you could leave it a good 30,000 miles or 2 years before having to service it, unfortunately seen a few GFBs dry out in a short amount of time resulting in jamming of the piston and loss of boost, I have tried all types of oil from machine oil, engine oil, grease, you name it and it never lasts, in a hybrid application it also sounds like a pigeon and does nothing to reduce the part throttle whistle which the Forge virtually eliminates.
According to the pumaspeed site it's supposed to increase throttle performance as well. I'm realy wondering if there is any real world difference to be noticed (unless your stock one is shot ofcourse). I'm not realy planning on spending the money if there's nothing to be gained.
This maybe of some help steve if you're still running cat safe crackle. After i got a gfb dv+ fitted, I noticed I was still only boosting to just over 1.5 bar. After a discussion with a mechanic who isn't keen on the crackle maps, I decided to load on my non crackle. I noticed the non crackle was version 8 and the cat safe was version 5 of 2R. After loading the v8 file, 20 mins into driving it I was hitting the 1.6 bar pumaspeed claim for 2R. I emailed pumaspeed about it, they told me cat safe stops at version 5, so it will be slightly down on version 8 boost levels. You can definitely feel it while driving, the mid range is a lot punchier on the V8 file. Maybe something for you to look into if you haven't already.
I'm surprised you haven't gone for a turbosmart BOV yet. Seems to be a very common replacement for the stock parts rather that revamping stock packs. Still, great content. I was going to do a video of the BOV replacement but it was a nightmare to get the angle...as you know 😂
Mine got stuck and i had only 1.1 to 1.2bar boost. i was almost ordering the new turbosmart em and the next day it went back to 1,5bar! i will open it nxt week and have a look at the brass cylinder. and yes mine is original!
your turbo is simply running out of puff up the higher rpm range its struggling to maintain the 25psi due to the increase in consumption of the engine. the turbo will be best compromise for quick spool and being a good all rounder making the power it does from factory. every car iv had does this except for the ones iv fitted a larger turbo too ;)
Looks like it's making 34 extra psi there. So seems to have helped. But seams to make it up at peak torque from what i saw. So might be the map cutting it off when it hit that torque figure.
Hi Steve, after watching your videos I finally bit the bullet and bought my own ST180 from copart. Progress is slow rebuilding it but it’s got a few aftermarket parts already fitted! I’ve noticed that there’s quite a lot of oil around the k&n pod filter. Have you ever had this with any of yours and have you considered fitting a catch can? Cheers!
Maybe your ecu had adjusted to what the factory valve was doing and after a few pulls started to adjust to what the engine wanted to do with the new valve holding the boost the tune is designed for. I'm not sure if that's a thing it does but seems logical in my mind.
On my focus ST 225 the GFB dv+ retained the ecu control to hold boost slightly longer than the factory dv before dropping off, when revo mapped to high boost would hit the needle into red before dropping off, could be a ecu control to protect the turbo from blowing
Awesome video! Have 16 usdm; installed mine and had no boost to - 12psi max lol. I’m reading all measurements on a COBB port and not sure how accurate it is. I took everything apart twice already; and even placed the og housing together (managed not to brake my plastic clip 🤪) and it was back to normal. Placed, the DV+ back on and like you said noticed a little difference after installing and now I’m just completely stumped and confused 😖
Had a dv+ myself for about 15k km, but the cylinder inside the valve leaked after this distance. Changed now to the closed Turbosmart. Maybe this works better on long terms. So after all, I cant recommend the dv+ anymore.
@@Sparkplugsteve sorry mate never read any of the comments etc just watched the vid and thought i would reply. My RS turbo will make peak 18psi and hold 15psi, obviously if the actuator etc wasnt up to much then it wouldnt be able do either reliably. Not 100% on this but on these st180s im sure iv read somewhere that boost isnt increased much over standard?
Would you recommend the GFB? I’m running a stage 2 map and have heard that the GFP replacement improves throttle response and holds boost better. Or is it just less likely to go wrong compared to the stock DV?
@@SparkplugsteveSpoke to Ross Laird and Gary from collins performance and both have said they've noticed the GFB DV+ isn't very reliable after extended testing. I think Gary recommends the standard BOV and Ross recommends Turbo Smart Dual Port for reliability. Gary actually said the stock BOV is from a Mercedes which actually runs 2 bar of boost reliably!
@@turbocharged9906 i don't no what a fez is supposed to be running at , but my rover never boosted over 20 psi , unless it popped a pipe off from the Westgate and would then sit at end of gage at around 25 psi , just trying food 4 thought on possible boost issues
@@plumbc007 2R can boost up to 1.6 peak then settle at 1.55 bar. Boost is brought in progressive so full boost isnt achieved till 3k rpm. Ecu load control means boost can and will always fluctuate so it meets its torque target.
Hi Steve, great videos they've been a great watch. I've been looking at some copart st as I'd love a cheap track toy. Is there anything to be aware of with catagory N and S, do they need re registering, declared on insurance etc?
I'd be interested to see that as I didn't think the standard turbo was capable of holding the boost throughout the rpm. Please can you film it and send me a vid on Instagram or Facebook?
Right sorry missed that on your previous videos .. thought it was standard ford map . Can I ask you a question? I have a mk8 fiesta st is there any way to disable cylinder deactivation? Really don't like it tuning on 2 cylinders.
@@kevinparr4823 only Maxd out software 1R will disable it in sport mode, no other software has disabled it in any mode as of yet. Its a useful feature to have on long journeys.
@@turbocharged9906 I'm probably being paranoid but it saves 6% on fuel.. not much gain especially if it gives engine problems later on .. especially piston and rings on the deactivated cylinder.. only time will tell
Loving that you are channelling Urchfab 4:31 !! And using Aussie kit as per Skid Factory. Great video Steve.
I'm so glad I fitted mine while the turbo was out. That looks way to fiddly for my liking 😁
Nice video Steve and glad you've got the answer to the question as to whether you have an issue
THIS IS THE ANSWER TO MY BOOST LEVELS. Cheers pumaspeed.
Interesting question on the Boost. MAXD Out mapping is load based, not boost based.
So, what this means is the ECU is trying to make a calculated torque figure. If the ECU/Map can match this request with only 20psi, it won't push any more.
If the car needs more boost to get to the requested torque level it will push up the a preset limit in the mapping.
Hopefully that makes a bit more sense :)
Told you 😉
Please quickly for me, what was the main Problem. My English is not the best becase i am from Germany and have also Problems with my boost after 4500 rpm. i am right then i say it was a Softwareproblem?
@@PumaG3 Its not a problem, de ecu commands the dv open before full boost because its already at the programmed hp/torque w the small boost built up. So the car has reserves in it, could be pumped to more hp and torque with full boost utilisation
Those callipers need some red mate 😁
It might just be my eagle eye, but it looks like the allen key bit is still in one of the bolts on the valve.. about 5:36 in the video.
Your spot on. Iv just watched the video myself and saw it too. Oh well its lost forever now. 😂
@@Sparkplugsteve oh sh!t mate... worth a look to see if it still there. Great content once again. I had a boost leak problem once. I made a tool to test it. It involved a piece of tube with one end welded shut, two holes drilled in the welded end , one for a car tyre valve, and another with a gauge, removed a turbo boost hose and put the tool in it, then I hooked up an air line to valve and put 10 psi in. found the leak spraying soapy water on the connections. It's a little scrapheap challenge, but it worked.
I had exactly that idea but it seems the car is performing fine and I was worried about nothing.
@@Sparkplugsteve great minds hey mate.. glad you are sorted.
I have just liked your Facebook page too mate.. sharing the love.
"Like a glove" nice one steve pet detective.
I'm on the case.🧐
Also, bear in mind that on a stock turbo setup, most mapping will tail off boost from 5.5k to the top end as the turbo is past peak efficiency, if you tried to hold 1.55 bar to the redline then the turbo WILL go back fairly quickly.
Its not the case for all stock turbos however for the most, the above applies. The 1.0 turbos on Superchips mapping will hold 22.5psi from 2k till just before the limiter.
It wasn't boost tailing off that confused me really it was the fact peak boost was hugger up hill compared to flat ground. But I found my answer why and pinned it as the top comment.
@@Sparkplugsteve some maps available for the ST180 from a certain tuner max out the load maps and set a single byte duty cycle limit to control boost. Poor way of doing it and if you fit a stronger actuator or have a boost control issue then the turbo will boost till destruction.
@@turbocharged9906 I'm so curious who does that. Please pm me.🧐
@@Sparkplugsteve unsure how to PM on youtube 😂
@@turbocharged9906 you can't. I'm on Instagram and Facebook under same name. Send me a message. 😁
This peice of kit is so good
Should of got a Forge.. in response as for why ...
I've logged all valves extensively, from measuring real world variables like effect on duty cycle, fuel trims, response time (you can measure the time it takes from the requested opening by the pcm) and even if you get any spikes at the throttle inlet during that time as well as the obvious peak boost number. For me the Forge has proven itself exceptionally reliable when installed correctly, gives the benefits of better part throttle response like the GFB with improved holding everywhere else, it uses a much higher pre-load spring as well as a boost reference signal, doesnt dry out the piston either so you could leave it a good 30,000 miles or 2 years before having to service it, unfortunately seen a few GFBs dry out in a short amount of time resulting in jamming of the piston and loss of boost, I have tried all types of oil from machine oil, engine oil, grease, you name it and it never lasts, in a hybrid application it also sounds like a pigeon and does nothing to reduce the part throttle whistle which the Forge virtually eliminates.
Bit late now Gareth. 😂
Your boost drop off doesnt look like a leak, looks like normal boost drop off
According to the pumaspeed site it's supposed to increase throttle performance as well. I'm realy wondering if there is any real world difference to be noticed (unless your stock one is shot ofcourse). I'm not realy planning on spending the money if there's nothing to be gained.
Throttle response is sharper between shifts for sure. The GFB closes quicker than stock.
This maybe of some help steve if you're still running cat safe crackle.
After i got a gfb dv+ fitted, I noticed I was still only boosting to just over 1.5 bar. After a discussion with a mechanic who isn't keen on the crackle maps, I decided to load on my non crackle. I noticed the non crackle was version 8 and the cat safe was version 5 of 2R. After loading the v8 file, 20 mins into driving it I was hitting the 1.6 bar pumaspeed claim for 2R.
I emailed pumaspeed about it, they told me cat safe stops at version 5, so it will be slightly down on version 8 boost levels. You can definitely feel it while driving, the mid range is a lot punchier on the V8 file.
Maybe something for you to look into if you haven't already.
Great timing, I'm going to fit one of these this week.
Hi Steve , is this where the dv is located in the st line also ?
So what was the verdict? Are these parts necessary?
A nice click into place makes you feel all satisfied don’t it 🤪
I'm surprised you haven't gone for a turbosmart BOV yet. Seems to be a very common replacement for the stock parts rather that revamping stock packs. Still, great content. I was going to do a video of the BOV replacement but it was a nightmare to get the angle...as you know 😂
The turbosmart stuff for the ST180 is shite. So many reliability problems whereas the GFB has had few issues
I believe the factory ecu has a 16 sec over boost mode depending on the conditions
Mine got stuck and i had only 1.1 to 1.2bar boost. i was almost ordering the new turbosmart em and the next day it went back to 1,5bar! i will open it nxt week and have a look at the brass cylinder. and yes mine is original!
It has to be serviced regularly?.. I mean, the little cylinder has to be greased often?
Hello Steve, are you still running this part with the S280, how is performance or do you recommend to change it for a Turbosmart? Thank you
your turbo is simply running out of puff up the higher rpm range its struggling to maintain the 25psi due to the increase in consumption of the engine. the turbo will be best compromise for quick spool and being a good all rounder making the power it does from factory. every car iv had does this except for the ones iv fitted a larger turbo too ;)
Looks like it's making 34 extra psi there. So seems to have helped. But seams to make it up at peak torque from what i saw. So might be the map cutting it off when it hit that torque figure.
no lol 35 would blow a 2l ecoboost
I'm at liek 13 psi at 6k rpm haha but i'm fitting a GFB tomorrow so hopefully might help
Hi Steve, after watching your videos I finally bit the bullet and bought my own ST180 from copart. Progress is slow rebuilding it but it’s got a few aftermarket parts already fitted! I’ve noticed that there’s quite a lot of oil around the k&n pod filter. Have you ever had this with any of yours and have you considered fitting a catch can? Cheers!
Maybe your ecu had adjusted to what the factory valve was doing and after a few pulls started to adjust to what the engine wanted to do with the new valve holding the boost the tune is designed for. I'm not sure if that's a thing it does but seems logical in my mind.
On my focus ST 225 the GFB dv+ retained the ecu control to hold boost slightly longer than the factory dv before dropping off, when revo mapped to high boost would hit the needle into red before dropping off, could be a ecu control to protect the turbo from blowing
But have not long seen about tightening them incorrect as well
Awesome video! Have 16 usdm; installed mine and had no boost to - 12psi max lol. I’m reading all measurements on a COBB port and not sure how accurate it is. I took everything apart twice already; and even placed the og housing together (managed not to brake my plastic clip 🤪) and it was back to normal. Placed, the DV+ back on and like you said noticed a little difference after installing and now I’m just completely stumped and confused 😖
I still get a litter bit of a flutter at low rpm with the DV+ is this normal ?
Been better off using Red Lithium Complex Grease for the sliding piston,the oil will dry out and then the piston will possibly stick.
Had a dv+ myself for about 15k km, but the cylinder inside the valve leaked after this distance. Changed now to the closed Turbosmart. Maybe this works better on long terms. So after all, I cant recommend the dv+ anymore.
how did you noticed that? did you hear it, or did you open it?
ask your mapper as they normally tail the boost off the higher up the rev range
Hi, yes I did after this video and iv pinned the reply at the top of the comments. Thanks.
@@Sparkplugsteve sorry mate never read any of the comments etc just watched the vid and thought i would reply.
My RS turbo will make peak 18psi and hold 15psi, obviously if the actuator etc wasnt up to much then it wouldnt be able do either reliably.
Not 100% on this but on these st180s im sure iv read somewhere that boost isnt increased much over standard?
No probs. I think standard is about 18/19psi peak. The boost controller stuff is all new to me and I'm slowly learning about it.
Would you recommend the GFB? I’m running a stage 2 map and have heard that the GFP replacement improves throttle response and holds boost better. Or is it just less likely to go wrong compared to the stock DV?
It feels no different but I done it because it's more reliable apparently
@@SparkplugsteveSpoke to Ross Laird and Gary from collins performance and both have said they've noticed the GFB DV+ isn't very reliable after extended testing. I think Gary recommends the standard BOV and Ross recommends Turbo Smart Dual Port for reliability.
Gary actually said the stock BOV is from a Mercedes which actually runs 2 bar of boost reliably!
👍 😘
Very weird how it creeps up and then creeps down
Great video steve👍🏻
I want one of these too! But if it doesn’t seem to make a difference what’s the point!!?? Lol 🤷🏻♂️
It won't add any more performance but its supposed to be reliable whereas the standard one isn't. At least that's what I believe to be the case.
Spark Plug Steve yeah I was told it’s more reliable but supposedly holds boost better too, Lol god knows.
To my knowledge the boost tailing off is part of the mapping so as far as I know its working as it should. I hope lol.
My gti peaks at 1.6 and holds at 1.5....its should be staright up no issues and then hold all way through
Link shop??? Thanks
Steve did you feel any slight difference in the way the car feels to drive after the installation?
No nothing.
Seems if it is over boosting,, hows the turbo wastegate???
Where does it seem to be overboosting?
@@turbocharged9906 i don't no what a fez is supposed to be running at , but my rover never boosted over 20 psi , unless it popped a pipe off from the Westgate and would then sit at end of gage at around 25 psi , just trying food 4 thought on possible boost issues
@@plumbc007 2R can boost up to 1.6 peak then settle at 1.55 bar. Boost is brought in progressive so full boost isnt achieved till 3k rpm. Ecu load control means boost can and will always fluctuate so it meets its torque target.
Iv only recently learnt how it targets torque not boost. Interesting stuff.
These turbos are interesting things 😁
You should get one. 😁
@@Sparkplugsteve I think I should 😁
Toyota turbo 🤷♂️😜
@@Sparkplugsteve sounds like a good plan 😁
Is this valve a straight swap for a standard st?
I'm swapping it onto a standard one yes.
Spark Plug Steve okay cool thanks for the reply
Hi Steve, great videos they've been a great watch. I've been looking at some copart st as I'd love a cheap track toy. Is there anything to be aware of with catagory N and S, do they need re registering, declared on insurance etc?
Thanks. Both need declaring on insurance and you just apply for a new logbook from dvla. No inspection needed
Yeah im not hitting over 21psi even up hill....... However it is holding it there....... Peron Stage 2 pro.
If you want reassurance that you have no leaks get a smoke test done just to be sure 👍
Steve your hands didn’t look grased and red from fitting that gfb. Obviously your a better mechanic than me 😂😂 good job mate 👍🏻
Must be my feminine small hands lol.
Another thing to do is to put a symposer delete cause boost lose through that is common!
Thanks iv got one here from pumaspeed so shall fit it soon.
maybe you have to change/reapair your actuator
Hey Steve good video 👍
Mine goes to 21 psi and stays there.. I have collins map cp2.
I'd be interested to see that as I didn't think the standard turbo was capable of holding the boost throughout the rpm. Please can you film it and send me a vid on Instagram or Facebook?
It wont hold 21psi past 5-5.5k
When’s the pure ford video
I'm part way through editing it so will be soon.
Can’t wait hope I can see my sulf as I was waving as u cam back in off track
OMGGGGG No rain!
It's a miracle.
Spark Plug Steve it’s your one day summer 😂
I think it's supposed to be doing that it's overboost.. only lasts about 10 seconds.. it's designed to protect the engine
I'm not Running over boost on stage 2 map. That's Ford and mountune maps.
Right sorry missed that on your previous videos .. thought it was standard ford map .
Can I ask you a question? I have a mk8 fiesta st is there any way to disable cylinder deactivation? Really don't like it tuning on 2 cylinders.
im sorry i know nothing about the mk8 fiesta
@@kevinparr4823 only Maxd out software 1R will disable it in sport mode, no other software has disabled it in any mode as of yet. Its a useful feature to have on long journeys.
@@turbocharged9906 I'm probably being paranoid but it saves 6% on fuel.. not much gain especially if it gives engine problems later on .. especially piston and rings on the deactivated cylinder.. only time will tell
What cat was this car s n c d
It ls an s.
Hello again
:-)
What an ugly engine though. Let’s be honest. Nothing like a Honda bay 😬😏
Can't argue with that..