Join the Makers Mob! rlnk.cc/frankhowarthanjohnheizs Three key factors to successfully cutting clean miters: 1 - Well tuned saw. Doesn't matter how expensive your saw is, as long as it's aligned properly 2 - SHARP blade. This is critical. If the blade isn't sharp, it'll overheat and deflect and ruin the cut. I made a video on how I sharpen my own blades: th-cam.com/video/zHtVT-phN5I/w-d-xo.html 3 - Zero clearance insert, mostly for safety sake. The offcuts from a bevel cut are wedge shaped and if one gets jammed in an open gap next to the blade, kickback can result. I like to recut my miters even if they fit well on the first pass. That reduces the stress on the saw and results in a cleaner cut when using a sharp blade. Start with parts that are slightly oversized and fine tune the fit as shown in the video. On September 26th, with a Master of Architecture Degree from Harvard University, Frank Howarth from The Makers Mob will be launching a new woodworking design series. In this 4 week woodworking series Frank will cover everything that you need to know to understand the fundamentals of woodworking design.
This is a great example of John's particular strengths. Cutting long miters _does_ require skill and most people don't even attempt them, or give up and move on. John figured out, long ago, a reliable method and then remembers today that it would be useful to break this down for others. What an excellent contribution to woodworking education.
I recently bought my first table saw and have taken up woodwork as a COVID hobby. I have been watching dozens of good videos to learn how to use it and I want to thank you for your excellent ‘how to videos’. I enjoy your presentation style, the things you have learnt from experience and the information you gave learners like me.
Just getting started in woodworking, I have tried these types of projects in the past, and you are correct. Getting your tools dialed in perfectly is key. You would think that would be straight forward, but I'm still learning. Practice makes perfect, I wish I had help setting up my shop!
That edge burnishing tip is really cool, never heard that one before! Also, even though I've been woodworking for.... gosh, 22 years now, I never logically thought about doing the rough 45 cut then a finishing pass to take tension off the blade for a more accurate cut. That's a great one too. Thanks!
Perfect timing on this. I took on a commission for a bunch of waterfall miter boxes and it's sent me on a whole series of tunings and improvements just to make sure it works right the first time... Clad and tuned my shitty fence, built a crosscut sled that can 5-cut well, and now have to extend the left side of the table saw to support the long stock. I'm glad the guy is patient.
great video . greetings from a Jamaican in Texas new to wood working. had the opportunity to do wood working when I when I was in high school back in ja. learning and its good to have great teachers.
Great video John! Long miters are very hard. Well for me anyway. That burnishing trick is used by carpenters for outside corners on base molding. I used to work for a carpenter and was taught that. Your box looks perfect!
My missing finger screamed when he did that. Reaching over to pick up the workpiece with the saw still running is how I lost it. I assume he has a Saw Stop
I CANNOT believe this was the first thing that popped up right as I sit down from coming in from the wood shop after doing just this all day. Man I think I would have been happier if I watched this just hours before. Great video as always, thanks John
It nice to see someone I respect store every pencil, knife and marking gauge in the shop on the table saw when you are using it. I feel bad about doing it, myself, but less so now that I see someone else do it.
Good video. One thing you should point out is the importance of tuning your saw so that the blade is parallel to the miter gage and fence when tilted to 45 degrees. Most people just check it at 90 degrees. My saw, an old Rockwell Beaver was almost dead on at 90 but off substantially at 45 and wouldn't cut clean miters until I shimmed the trunnions to get the blade parallel at 45. You don't mention digital tilt boxes to set the blade at 45. I find it the most accurate and quickest method .
Классный спец! Давно за ним слежу. Тут главное подача - КАК. Всё раззжовано и наглядно. Всё ценное с этого канала я для внуков уже сохранил. Им нравится, они пыхтят, но пытаются. Жду продолжений. Автору спасибо - умница и руки расут откуда надо. 23.09.20 RF
Great video and really top tips, take the sharp point off the first mitred cut to stop it crushing down and spoiling the second saw pass, also closing any slightly opened joints by pulling a rounded metal rod along the joins. Brilliant stuff.
@@sadidrahimi Don't forget, if it's a joint, you can usually plaster or grout it, so any mistakes almost disappear like magic! Any other mistakes, just sand it down and leave it as raw wood, call it "rustic" lol
Thank you ,Thank You,Thank You! I finally did it I’ve watched video after video and I just watched your video and I followed everything you did and it worked! I can’t believe it. I went so far as to make a box inside a box inside a box and they look great!! Now if you could just teach me Dovetail’s. Thanks Denise
Great, clear instructional one John. Really good. Btw, you saw seems to cut silky smooth, a joy to watch the wood glide through without hardly any resistance. Btw2. The console came out great as well👍😀
To get the angle right on the blade you can cut a small piece of scrap at the desired angle on a miter saw and then hold the piece against the blade on the table surface. Perfect every time.
Hey, I watched the console stereo video. My parents had a console stereo and it reminded me of when I was a kid. I don't make a lot of non-90° cuts, so this is going in my saved list so when I have to I'll have a reference. Thank you!
Great demo, as always. Man, you aren’t kidding about how awful that first long miter of my woodworking career was! To make matters worse, it was a right-tilt blade and there was no fence rail on the left side of the saw. Talk about sweating bullets! Make it a great day, Scott
Thanks. Was struggling to make a box similar to this to cover up some exposed water pipes. Not really a woodworker but I see now that the key is a really well calibrated saw. The tape up clamp method is also a big help. Thanks for this video.
Outstanding tutorial. You just confirmed how I need to upgrade from my current, cheap table saw. Total gangster how you confidently run those cuts through with your hand. I’ve been around cabinetry all my life but still have a serious fear of slipping on the pass
Super helpful!! Thank you. I have a beautiful piece of dark walnut I bought a while back hoping for it to inspire me. I have a couple additional tools as Christmas gifts (Tablesaw, etc.) i’ve been wanting to make a pretty box as a starting point for my journey into more complex joinery and woodworking in general. Really appreciate you showing how to set up a tablesaw for these sort of miter cuts. I’ll look through your other videos to to get a better idea of how to cut that rabbit, because that’s something I don’t have a lot of experience with
Very useful! My table saw is under garantie, so I cant modify it, so fist I have to change only the parallel guide in aluminum to one more long in wood that run to the two side transverse of the table, for perfect parallels. I like your channel, because every tool is wood made!
Thanks for that tip with using a screwdriver to close the seam on the joint. I don't always get as tight a joint as I want, so I think this will make it's way into my arsenal of "ways to conceal my mistakes" lol
I really like that last tip, to burnish the edges together. I loved your side table speaker build. I'm buying some dayton audio drivers to make some small pc speakers to see if I like the sound of them. If i do, I am rebuilding my 4ft towers as I blew a B&W 8" that I can't get anymore. I will be keeping the 15" subs as you introduced me to the linkwitz filter and It took a few days getting that made and tuned in. Bass is to smooth to replace that lot.
Thank you! That but about lining the blade edge up with the corner was what I needed. You don’t think about that kind of stuff watching someone else do it. It’s not until you set the wood down do you think, “huh how far into the wood do I start my 45° cut?”
Great work as always John. I must admit, I've never made a good miter. I tend to rush it and of course my saw is not tuned well enough to get a good result. Then again, none of my work is going on Etsy so I can live with it.
I didn`t intend to utilize this woodworking website, *TopFineWoodworking. Com* but rather curious about it. I was truly impressed after trying it. I was looking to find out more about the art of woodworking, and was not dissatisfied. I found several topics such as wood types and designing your workshop.
I would say that was perfect too John - well done. Excellent tutorial. Can you come to London and calibrate my tools... one day they're good, next day they're not... driving me nuts.
I've also found (the hard way) that your stock needs to be perfectly flat. That's easy for plywood, but when your doing long miters in glued up panels that aren't perfectly flat that will cause small voids in the joints. Running the glued up panels in a planer would be ideal if your planer can accomodate the width. This video was very helpful but it's still a struggle to get perfect looong miters with no voids.
Hello my friend would you consider using several boards against your fence? You are correct, must have 90 degrees on all edges. Trial and error you cut your 45 degree into your fence. Trial and error and adjustments to your fence and blade height and your rate of speed may give you a no tear out since the blade is inside your fence .... Note: you must be at a minus 45 degree (1-2 degree). I had to make several cubes for a NYCity designer and I also burnished my edges using a screwdriver, lightly. I’ll be 71 yrs old this week, Dec 6,2020...My very best to you and whoever reads this...Bob
Felicitaciones por todo el trabajo que realizan, hace casi un año que no me pierdo ninguno de sus videos, soy de Argentina y disfruto mucho en especial cuando, como ahora, construyen algo, debo decir que tengo cierta debilidad por la construcción, en especial en madera. Hasta aquí todo muy bueno, pero debo hacerles una sugerencia para mejorar la llegada de sus videos. Resulta que ustedes explican ,aparentemente, muy bien los trabajos a realizar o realizados, entonces al estar en Ingles, lenguaje que ustedes usan, para los que no interpretamos el idioma nos quedamos sin saber que es lo que están diciendo, entonces esa parte se pierde por completo. Una solución es la de traducir mediante sub títulos a otros idiomas, lo que permitiría llegar a más personas por ende más suscriptores. Ya hay varios Yotubers que adoptaron el subtitulado y es muy bueno. Espero puedan adoptarlo para poder entender más sus realizaciones. Cálidos saludos desde argentina.
Your definition of long and mine are two different animals. I'd call what yoh did an average length for boxes. I'm getting ready to do 7' and 8' joints and figuring out how to keep it all straight and true is driving me nuts! But thanks for the video anyway, any refresher on concept and practice is Always nice!
Hahaha... sir that taping of your joints (as a mocking up of sorts) is nothing short of “freaking genius”... I am by no means anything close to a “master wood woodworker”, and most likely that little trick is not a secret..., I am a 58yrs young intermittent wood worker, (yes if I have seen the “strap clamp” devices used to glue up a box or picture frame..., but this is the first time I have ever seen this taping trick. Great video, Thank you sir.
Greetings John, I've watched a lot of your videos and I always wonder what the hell is that mechanism on top of your table saw fence? If you have a vid of it please share. By the way HUGE thumbs up for all of your creativity and the way you get things done by making it yourself, amazing to watch.
After getting this stuff few days ago, I could hardly put it down afterwards [Link Here== *TopFineWoodworking. Com* ]. There are lots of colorful pictures, with detailed descriptions of every step in the project. You will never miss your way using this plan. It was more than I expected.?
Thanks for the video - it's a great help! I have a question about your zero-clearance insert. Do you make a separate one that is dedicated just for miter cuts? Seems like you'd wind up with too wide a gap around the blade if you used the same throat plate for both 90s and 45s... Or am I overthinking it? Thanks again!
There is a much safer and accurate method by placing the fence on the opposite side of the blade and raising the blade into a piece of 3/4" plywood/mdf clamped to the fence. Very safe and very accurate
im joining two 1x4 along their length to make a " T " post and i want to cut the top of the post at an angle but my miter cant make that deep of a cut.. it will only go about half way through.. how do i cut an angle at the top of my post? love your videos and watching you make your projects
John are you using a thin kerf blade? I tried this, I have a thin kerf blade in my saw right now and I think it’s flexing at the end of the cut. No matter what I trie I have a little deflection at the end of the cut.
This works up to 45*. What about when you need more than that? I have a jig where I hold my board up vertically. 45* becomes 45*+x. Anyway, I think it would be worth covering how you measure the pieces out. I think that's my main weakness. If I am trying to create perfect miters, on correctly cut boards I often somehow screw it up after adding the miter cut.
Join the Makers Mob! rlnk.cc/frankhowarthanjohnheizs
Three key factors to successfully cutting clean miters:
1 - Well tuned saw. Doesn't matter how expensive your saw is, as long as it's aligned properly
2 - SHARP blade. This is critical. If the blade isn't sharp, it'll overheat and deflect and ruin the cut. I made a video on how I sharpen my own blades: th-cam.com/video/zHtVT-phN5I/w-d-xo.html
3 - Zero clearance insert, mostly for safety sake. The offcuts from a bevel cut are wedge shaped and if one gets jammed in an open gap next to the blade, kickback can result.
I like to recut my miters even if they fit well on the first pass. That reduces the stress on the saw and results in a cleaner cut when using a sharp blade. Start with parts that are slightly oversized and fine tune the fit as shown in the video.
On September 26th, with a Master of Architecture Degree from Harvard University, Frank Howarth from The Makers Mob will be launching a new woodworking design series. In this 4 week woodworking series Frank will cover everything that you need to know to understand the fundamentals of woodworking design.
Watching this sample box come together was one of the best wood working vids ive been in a long time
This is a great example of John's particular strengths. Cutting long miters _does_ require skill and most people don't even attempt them, or give up and move on. John figured out, long ago, a reliable method and then remembers today that it would be useful to break this down for others. What an excellent contribution to woodworking education.
I recently bought my first table saw and have taken up woodwork as a COVID hobby. I have been watching dozens of good videos to learn how to use it and I want to thank you for your excellent ‘how to videos’. I enjoy your presentation style, the things you have learnt from experience and the information you gave learners like me.
Which one did you get? I am a beginner looking to buy a table saw to start some projects.
Just getting started in woodworking, I have tried these types of projects in the past, and you are correct. Getting your tools dialed in perfectly is key. You would think that would be straight forward, but I'm still learning. Practice makes perfect, I wish I had help setting up my shop!
That edge burnishing tip is really cool, never heard that one before!
Also, even though I've been woodworking for.... gosh, 22 years now, I never logically thought about doing the rough 45 cut then a finishing pass to take tension off the blade for a more accurate cut. That's a great one too. Thanks!
Perfect timing on this. I took on a commission for a bunch of waterfall miter boxes and it's sent me on a whole series of tunings and improvements just to make sure it works right the first time... Clad and tuned my shitty fence, built a crosscut sled that can 5-cut well, and now have to extend the left side of the table saw to support the long stock. I'm glad the guy is patient.
great video . greetings from a Jamaican in Texas new to wood working. had the opportunity to do wood working when I when I was in high school back in ja. learning and its good to have great teachers.
Great video John! Long miters are very hard. Well for me anyway. That burnishing trick is used by carpenters for outside corners on base molding. I used to work for a carpenter and was taught that. Your box looks perfect!
You are a true professional. With that said it scares the hell out of me, as you guide those pieces past that blade.
Scare easily do ya?
Haha me too!
It's completely stupid and not safe what he is doing.
Thought it was just me...😮
My missing finger screamed when he did that. Reaching over to pick up the workpiece with the saw still running is how I lost it.
I assume he has a Saw Stop
This was a good video, i like the videos where you spend time talking through different techniques for different things. You would be a great teacher
good point. yes he has a very good demeanor and seems patient. I agree, he probably would be a great teacher.
I CANNOT believe this was the first thing that popped up right as I sit down from coming in from the wood shop after doing just this all day. Man I think I would have been happier if I watched this just hours before. Great video as always, thanks John
It nice to see someone I respect store every pencil, knife and marking gauge in the shop on the table saw when you are using it. I feel bad about doing it, myself, but less so now that I see someone else do it.
Good video. One thing you should point out is the importance of tuning your saw so that the blade is parallel to the miter gage and fence when tilted to 45 degrees. Most people just check it at 90 degrees. My saw, an old Rockwell Beaver was almost dead on at 90 but off substantially at 45 and wouldn't cut clean miters until I shimmed the trunnions to get the blade parallel at 45. You don't mention digital tilt boxes to set the blade at 45. I find it the most accurate and quickest method .
Good point. I had the same problem with the saw I rebuilt a few years ago. It's a frustrating problem that a lot of guys won't be aware of.
Классный спец! Давно за ним слежу. Тут главное подача - КАК. Всё раззжовано и наглядно. Всё ценное с этого канала я для внуков уже сохранил. Им нравится, они пыхтят, но пытаются. Жду продолжений. Автору спасибо - умница и руки расут откуда надо.
23.09.20 RF
I like that use of a screwdriver/ wrench to close up the seam. Thank you.
Great video and really top tips, take the sharp point off the first mitred cut to stop it crushing down and spoiling the second saw pass, also closing any slightly opened joints by pulling a rounded metal rod along the joins. Brilliant stuff.
Love these tutorials , always something you can pick up or try to improve your own skills, thanks John.👍
School teachers: measure twice, cut once, always comes out perfect
Reality: never measure, eyeball everything, cut 14 times until it's right
😂😂 I’m new to woodworking and definitely thought I was the only one lazying out. Good to know!
@@sadidrahimi Don't forget, if it's a joint, you can usually plaster or grout it, so any mistakes almost disappear like magic!
Any other mistakes, just sand it down and leave it as raw wood, call it "rustic"
lol
@@sabriath I like those tips haha, good to see veterans use shortcuts too!
this is so smooth i can barely believe it! beautiful to watch and listen to.
Better idea now of the miters's world! Will help for my current project. Thanks for those tips!
Thank you ,Thank You,Thank You! I finally did it I’ve watched video after video and I just watched your video and I followed everything you did and it worked! I can’t believe it.
I went so far as to make a box inside a box inside a box and they look great!!
Now if you could just teach me Dovetail’s.
Thanks Denise
Great, clear instructional one John. Really good. Btw, you saw seems to cut silky smooth, a joy to watch the wood glide through without hardly any resistance. Btw2. The console came out great as well👍😀
Thanks Roy :)
I watched it John!!! Love your stuff man!! Keep it up!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks for the great video John. I learned a lot and enjoyed hanging out with you.
How refreshing to se someone using a finger to spread wood glue, just like a normal person.
Thanks John
To get the angle right on the blade you can cut a small piece of scrap at the desired angle on a miter saw and then hold the piece against the blade on the table surface. Perfect every time.
Hey, I watched the console stereo video. My parents had a console stereo and it reminded me of when I was a kid. I don't make a lot of non-90° cuts, so this is going in my saved list so when I have to I'll have a reference. Thank you!
Great demo, as always. Man, you aren’t kidding about how awful that first long miter of my woodworking career was! To make matters worse, it was a right-tilt blade and there was no fence rail on the left side of the saw. Talk about sweating bullets! Make it a great day, Scott
Your experience and talent is just pure pleasure to watch.
Thanks. Was struggling to make a box similar to this to cover up some exposed water pipes. Not really a woodworker but I see now that the key is a really well calibrated saw. The tape up clamp method is also a big help. Thanks for this video.
Outstanding tutorial. You just confirmed how I need to upgrade from my current, cheap table saw.
Total gangster how you confidently run those cuts through with your hand. I’ve been around cabinetry all my life but still have a serious fear of slipping on the pass
I really appreciate this kind of video from you, I’ve learned a lot from you over the years, thank you.
One of the most beautiful labs !
Great tutorial also !
Super helpful!! Thank you. I have a beautiful piece of dark walnut I bought a while back hoping for it to inspire me. I have a couple additional tools as Christmas gifts (Tablesaw, etc.) i’ve been wanting to make a pretty box as a starting point for my journey into more complex joinery and woodworking in general. Really appreciate you showing how to set up a tablesaw for these sort of miter cuts.
I’ll look through your other videos to to get a better idea of how to cut that rabbit, because that’s something I don’t have a lot of experience with
Great video! Workshop as clean as a surgery room, amazing!
A true teacher. Thank you boss!!
Thank's a lot for your tips bro. You inspire me a lot and many thing I can learn from you.
Sei un grande!!! Il mio miglior aiuto per i miei lavori. Complimenti.
Thanks a mil, I always struggled with cutting perfect 45 degree joints.
Thank you for this!! Exactly what I needed to learn for an upcoming project!!
Just the tutorial I needed. Thank you sir.
Very useful! My table saw is under garantie, so I cant modify it, so fist I have to change only the parallel guide in aluminum to one more long in wood that run to the two side transverse of the table, for perfect parallels. I like your channel, because every tool is wood made!
Thanks for that tip with using a screwdriver to close the seam on the joint. I don't always get as tight a joint as I want, so I think this will make it's way into my arsenal of "ways to conceal my mistakes" lol
Very nicely executed John & well explained. Thanks.......... 👍👍😉😉
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you for this..exactly the information I was looking for and so well presented and explained 🙏
I loved that video I love wood working and audio
Done that with the corners and it works., Nice job explaining this method of angelling John
I really like that last tip, to burnish the edges together. I loved your side table speaker build. I'm buying some dayton audio drivers to make some small pc speakers to see if I like the sound of them. If i do, I am rebuilding my 4ft towers as I blew a B&W 8" that I can't get anymore. I will be keeping the 15" subs as you introduced me to the linkwitz filter and It took a few days getting that made and tuned in. Bass is to smooth to replace that lot.
Great tips and video! Thanks for sharing John
Great tutorial John!
Thanks Greg :)
Really nice and clean work 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Great video! I need a zero clearance for my saw now.
Thank you! That but about lining the blade edge up with the corner was what I needed. You don’t think about that kind of stuff watching someone else do it. It’s not until you set the wood down do you think, “huh how far into the wood do I start my 45° cut?”
I watched it and it was awesome!
Всё так грамотно и правильно,ваши видео просто самые лучшие в you tube.
Wonderful demonstration!
Great work as always John. I must admit, I've never made a good miter. I tend to rush it and of course my saw is not tuned well enough to get a good result. Then again, none of my work is going on Etsy so I can live with it.
I didn`t intend to utilize this woodworking website, *TopFineWoodworking. Com* but rather curious about it. I was truly impressed after trying it. I was looking to find out more about the art of woodworking, and was not dissatisfied. I found several topics such as wood types and designing your workshop.
Just what i needed. Thank you.
Good tips as always John.
I would say that was perfect too John - well done. Excellent tutorial. Can you come to London and calibrate my tools... one day they're good, next day they're not... driving me nuts.
I've also found (the hard way) that your stock needs to be perfectly flat. That's easy for plywood, but when your doing long miters in glued up panels that aren't perfectly flat that will cause small voids in the joints. Running the glued up panels in a planer would be ideal if your planer can accomodate the width. This video was very helpful but it's still a struggle to get perfect looong miters with no voids.
I hate doing long mitres this helps thanks 👍
I love that table saw. I'm going to try to build one.
Cool, I was just thinking about making a few boxes. Looks like I know what I'm doing this weekend.
John I definitely watched your stereo console video it was awesome!
Thank you, John.
I don't have the accurate kind of table saw at this momment, but certainly I will buy your plans to make mine.
Probably the best way I've found to make long miter cuts is with my track saw.
Nice tutorial, John - well documented and explained. FWIW, I did see your earlier video, so obviously you weren't speaking to me there. 😉
Hello my friend would you consider using several boards against your fence? You are correct, must have 90 degrees on all edges. Trial and error you cut your 45 degree into your fence. Trial and error and adjustments to your fence and blade height and your rate of speed may give you a no tear out since the blade is inside your fence .... Note: you must be at a minus 45 degree (1-2 degree). I had to make several cubes for a NYCity designer and I also burnished my edges using a screwdriver, lightly. I’ll be 71 yrs old this week, Dec 6,2020...My very best to you and whoever reads this...Bob
Tape folding works so much better
just brilliant thank you for sharing.
Thanks for sharing that, well said and done!
Felicitaciones por todo el trabajo que realizan, hace casi un año que no me pierdo ninguno de sus videos, soy de Argentina y disfruto mucho en especial cuando, como ahora, construyen algo, debo decir que tengo cierta debilidad por la construcción, en especial en madera. Hasta aquí todo muy bueno, pero debo hacerles una sugerencia para mejorar la llegada de sus videos. Resulta que ustedes explican ,aparentemente, muy bien los trabajos a realizar o realizados, entonces al estar en Ingles, lenguaje que ustedes usan, para los que no interpretamos el idioma nos quedamos sin saber que es lo que están diciendo, entonces esa parte se pierde por completo. Una solución es la de traducir mediante sub títulos a otros idiomas, lo que permitiría llegar a más personas por ende más suscriptores. Ya hay varios Yotubers que adoptaron el subtitulado y es muy bueno. Espero puedan adoptarlo para poder entender más sus realizaciones. Cálidos saludos desde argentina.
Your definition of long and mine are two different animals. I'd call what yoh did an average length for boxes. I'm getting ready to do 7' and 8' joints and figuring out how to keep it all straight and true is driving me nuts!
But thanks for the video anyway, any refresher on concept and practice is Always nice!
This is good. I wonder if your table saw sound is turned down or if there are really saws that are that quiet? (doubt it)
Hahaha...
sir that taping of your joints (as a mocking up of sorts) is nothing short of “freaking genius”...
I am by no means anything close to a “master wood woodworker”, and most likely that little trick is not a secret...,
I am a 58yrs young intermittent wood worker, (yes if I have seen the “strap clamp” devices used to glue up a box or picture frame...,
but this is the first time I have ever seen this taping trick.
Great video,
Thank you sir.
Thank you so much
I like the screwdriver trick! Does it work on solid wood that has crosscut miters?
Greetings John, I've watched a lot of your videos and I always wonder what the hell is that mechanism on top of your table saw fence? If you have a vid of it please share. By the way HUGE thumbs up for all of your creativity and the way you get things done by making it yourself, amazing to watch.
Thank you!
^^ 늘 멋진 !~ 분 잘 보았습니다
After getting this stuff few days ago, I could hardly put it down afterwards [Link Here== *TopFineWoodworking. Com* ]. There are lots of colorful pictures, with detailed descriptions of every step in the project. You will never miss your way using this plan. It was more than I expected.?
Im going to be building a couple newel posts, i planned on finish nailing the corners. Should i wait until the glue dries?
Thanks for the video - it's a great help! I have a question about your zero-clearance insert. Do you make a separate one that is dedicated just for miter cuts? Seems like you'd wind up with too wide a gap around the blade if you used the same throat plate for both 90s and 45s... Or am I overthinking it? Thanks again!
There is a much safer and accurate method by placing the fence on the opposite side of the blade and raising the blade into a piece of 3/4" plywood/mdf clamped to the fence. Very safe and very accurate
Is it weird that this video made me think “maybe I want to become a carpenter?” 😅
Amaying 👍👍👍
great job
im joining two 1x4 along their length to make a " T " post and i want to cut the top of the post at an angle but my miter cant make that deep of a cut.. it will only go about half way through.. how do i cut an angle at the top of my post?
love your videos and watching you make your projects
No you have plans showing how you made your table saw?
I have only done long mitres on a router table with a sled, lots of setting up and trial cuts !
Great step by step-- thank you. How much will tabletop flatness affect this cut? I guess I'll find out soon haha
Great tips !
John are you using a thin kerf blade? I tried this, I have a thin kerf blade in my saw right now and I think it’s flexing at the end of the cut. No matter what I trie I have a little deflection at the end of the cut.
Pack it with a load of bamboo skewers and you'll have a nice block to hold your kitchen knifes
Beautiful
This works up to 45*. What about when you need more than that? I have a jig where I hold my board up vertically. 45* becomes 45*+x. Anyway, I think it would be worth covering how you measure the pieces out. I think that's my main weakness. If I am trying to create perfect miters, on correctly cut boards I often somehow screw it up after adding the miter cut.
Good tips Thanks