I would have clocked them up with the long round bar then fixed them down, that way they would have centred themselves, the way it is know then the error shows up.
You might start putting a note inside the case of the tools that are gifted to you for a reminder, tools that have been given to me are among my most favorite
Its way close enough for most every kind of job we'd all do but I would still have to mess with it to try to make it closer. Thx for posting always enjoy the content.
What an amazing display of precision!! When you combine quality machinery with an expert machinist you get a level of accuracy beyond what you think is possible. Informative and thoroughly enjoyable!
I know it's easy to say but, instead of drilling in the center of the V-block and dill and tap the shaft to find the center, I would have just used a machinist jack on the milling table to keep the shaft in the middle to find the center, but it's just me. Nice work, Jeff
Great work Adam your work and precision is second to none it is so perfect if your hands were too warm and you held the pin for too long they would not fit. Great work keep it up.
You can go at it with a ball end mill and use fusion to post a z ramping path Will have a long machining time but surface and precision will be worth it
It is wonderful to see you back on the manual machine! CNC is OK but hard for me to imagine ever doing anything like that myself. But I treasure the instruction, tips, and ideas on the manual machines. I have missed them.
Well done!! We work in metric, so the V blocks are only off by +-0.1mm. Thats more than accurate enough for larger jobs with larger tolerances! Great job Abomb!!👍👍
good job adam . you can mill the V block with a ball end mill if you want it parallel to the machine and then mill reference surfaces on the outside of the V block. so it's quick to find center Next time or use Haimer 3D in the V track to find center 👍👍👍👍👍👍
BTW, it is possible when pushing or driving the slip-fit pins in the hole, with a lot of oil around, for it to diesel and fling the pins back out. Have to push pretty hard, hit it with a hammer and you may get a surprise!
Evaporust. Adam has done some videos on it a while ago at the home shop. It's just a liquid that you tip stuff in. My guess is that it's basically phosphoric acid.
I was happy to see non cnc work, I enjoy that type of work. I do have one question, you used a precision equipment base to pound in the v-blocks. Am I over thinking this? Enjoy watching Patrick
G'day Adam. The overall job worked out with slight variant off centre, which can be compensated through programming. The problem being that the larger diameter shafts will have a few thousands of an inch variants depending on the length, but even these will have to be trammed in before machining. So looking at your efforts, it looks good. 🎉🎉🎉
I don't know anything about fusion, I've been a mastercam guy for the last 20 years if it were me I would just run a flow line finish .003 step over and resurface the V blocks so they were parallel to each other. They have the big cut out in the bottom so it looks like there's plenty of room to get a 1/2" ball mill in there.
Good Sunday morning Adam. Great video, you put a lot of hard work into fixturing the V blocks. As a hobbyist, I wonder if tapping with a soft face hammer the entire fixtures to correct the difference like you have demonstrated many times traming on the mill would have solved the misalignment or even slotting the holes for Y movement would help solve the issue? I guess it depends on how often the fixture is going to be used and its location on the rails. Heck, the temperature changes can probably change the outcome day to day depending how critical the tolerances are. As always, I enjoy your content very much and thanks for sharing.
i think if use the edgefider on the 45 degree face of the V block it will work as long as you dont change Z height from side to side, have you tried this?
That 5 thousands dip in the middle is exactly why I never wanted to do this kind of work! My OCD wouldn't let me leave it that way and I'd end up chasing zero's all over the rest of the tool!
@@gigaherz_You are probably right. But I'd still have taken them to that nice Fireball welding table, situated them over one of the legs with some plywood or similar underneath before wacking them.
Could you write a program to go through and recut the V to be more true? Also did you try lifting the assembly and moving it to see how repeatable they were?
Nice project. In the future when you're machining the bottom of the v-block, you might want to mill around the base so it's easier to center the block for drilling the pins and center hole.
Hi Adam, did you try turning one block around? may line up better also you could finish machine as a matched pair in the Flex, could make another video. Stay safe you guys
This is kinda simple, I mean, basically a V-Block, but all upside down n stuff, looks really crazy. It's almost kinda artistic, as much of machine work is. he concentric on that V set is so close to perfect... Lock anything in there and bump or shim it around. You got some wiggle room below too. That's a HEFTY set of Vblocks. Paint would be interesting, or blue them.
Yes . That is the only way to make them perfect. 3D milling whit ball endmill . Adam should have known that that doing it his way you accumulate errors and they will not be perfect at all.
That was really nice. I wonder, wouldn't it have been easier to make certain your test cylinder was in fact a cylinder? I know that the surface was chrome plated, but I've seen you true up cylinders before in a lathe. Then you could have trammed the cylinder on the sides and on the top rather than measuring the bottom of the v block. One less step to introduce error. Thanks for explaining how easy it is to use shims if the workpiece isn't sitting right on the blocks.
Maybe should have swept the other sides of the vees, too. The heights of the vees may be slightly different and the additional sweep would pick this up.
Your stock left on that ream was correct, but your math was wrong. Typically with reamers, your pre-drill should be 2-3% smaller than the final ream size. For a .500 reamer, that's .010"-.015".
Why do you reverse the countersink cutter? I think I can see that it makes a pretty chamfer but I don’t understand why. Also a fella once told me faster rpm on the reamer for a slip fit and slower for a tighter fit. Maybe in a future vid you could address these.
@@CothranMikeThat isn’t what was going on here. Adam clearly stated he put the mill in low gear(back gear) and ran the mill in reverse. Standard procedure on a knee mill in back gear.
@@grntitan1 I agree that Adam said all this, the OP eyes saw what I stated, let's ask the OP what he meant to settle this. Yo @1911wood! What did you mean
Adam, a question if you don’t mind. If you use shims for alinement won’t that throw off your parallel end to end for height? You might be better off decking the one side of the “V” block the .003 “.
Paint…. Naaa. I’d go get a gun bluing kit and do the side faces. Would love to see you set up and run multi station on the Flex CNC … along with long pieces… that’s what the Flex is made for.
You went through the trouble of making that "centering plug" you should have used it as your datum surface instead of the flame cut edge. That would have insured that you were 90 degrees to the "V". It could also be used to measure the distance from center line of the "V" to the mounting surface and make any corrections if there was a difference between the 2 blocks by milling them. No shims needed. In the end you probably wouldn't have that .003" difference. At least that's how I would have done it.
If the goal is to find the center of the V not the center of the bottom of the block; assuming the sides of the V are perfectly perpendicular to each other, would it have been better to pick three Z heights, say 1/5th, 3/5ths, 4/5ths up from the bottom and probe to find the center on those and compare those three "centers"? If they all line up that confirms the sides of the V are perfectly perpendicular right?
The best way to do this would have been just bolted down and 3D mill it whit a ball endmill. Adam , you’re a pretty smart guy, why did you do it this way it was so predictable that they won’t be in line because you accumulate a lot of errors and you work a lot , for a crappy result. Think like a CNC guy , 3D mill it
Adam, i dont think you should have used the surface of the hot rolled plate to tram in and find the center. The v way may not be perfectly perpendicular to the surface you used as your reference. If you sweep the chrome rod, you pulled into the vally of the v, in x axis you could have verified it was perpendicular to the y axis dowel pins
I wouldn’t quite wrap up those “V” blocks yet. For ease and convenience I recommend you elongate the “T” nut holes on the “V” blocks fixture plates to be able to slide the “T” nut studs into the “V” block fixture plates like on the vices instead of trying to fish through the holes to thread the studs into the “T” nuts.👍
Maybe rotate one of the V blocks 180 degrees to see if that .003 difference improves?
Just what I was going to say. Now I'll just tell you that good minds think alike, (sometimes 😂😮anyway).
I was going to suggest the same thing.
I was going to suggest putting a piece of precision shafting in the V-blocks and sweeping it with an indicator.
I would have clocked them up with the long round bar then fixed them down, that way they would have centred themselves, the way it is know then the error shows up.
Just 3D mill it whit a ball mill to make them perfect .
I do like your new fancy shop. However, I enjoy your old shop best.
Always a pleasure to watch you take joy in finding precision. That is a lesson to me. The right tools used correctly make all the difference.
You might start putting a note inside the case of the tools that are gifted to you for a reminder, tools that have been given to me are among my most favorite
Its way close enough for most every kind of job we'd all do but I would still have to mess with it to try to make it closer. Thx for posting always enjoy the content.
Boy don’t ya love when the precision reams and pins fit so good the slowly drop into place on their own. You make it look easy Adam
Yup. I've got a Sonnen honing "sample" fiddletoy that is basically just that. I reckon they knew their target market.
❤ You did a great job lining up the dowel pins.
Enjoyed the show very much.
Quality work,Adam.Let´s use them.Thank you.
showing off when the pins slide in.. perfect!
What an amazing display of precision!! When you combine quality machinery with an expert machinist you get a level of accuracy beyond what you think is possible. Informative and thoroughly enjoyable!
Now it's Saturday, thanks man
Would a machinist's jack under the cylinder pushing it upward into the Vee have located the center of the Vee without having to drill the V-Block?
That's what I would have done. Seems like he made more work for himself for no reason.
or used a big kant twist clamp
At 32:16 when that pin slid into the hole........ sent shivers down my spine.
I enjoy watching your videos.
I know it's easy to say but, instead of drilling in the center of the V-block and dill and tap the shaft to find the center, I would have just used a machinist jack on the milling table to keep the shaft in the middle to find the center, but it's just me. Nice work, Jeff
Just perfect! So nice to watch!
Great work Adam your work and precision is second to none it is so perfect if your hands were too warm and you held the pin for too long they would not fit. Great work keep it up.
You can go at it with a ball end mill and use fusion to post a z ramping path
Will have a long machining time but surface and precision will be worth it
It is wonderful to see you back on the manual machine! CNC is OK but hard for me to imagine ever doing anything like that myself. But I treasure the instruction, tips, and ideas on the manual machines. I have missed them.
awesome work Adam
Well done!! We work in metric, so the V blocks are only off by +-0.1mm. Thats more than accurate enough for larger jobs with larger tolerances! Great job Abomb!!👍👍
VERY NICE WORK ADAM.
good job adam . you can mill the V block with a ball end mill if you want it parallel to the machine and then mill reference surfaces on the outside of the V block. so it's quick to find center Next time or use Haimer 3D in the V track to find center 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great video. Chips throughout.
love it
BTW, it is possible when pushing or driving the slip-fit pins in the hole, with a lot of oil around, for it to diesel and fling the pins back out. Have to push pretty hard, hit it with a hammer and you may get a surprise!
Surface a new V on them so they’re perfect to the machine. Would make a good learning project too.
From an old retired tool & die maker i really love your work and ideas , thanks for sharing your knowledge !! 😎👍🔩⚙️🛠️
Adam, I appreciate your content. Can you talk more about the anti-rust soak at your house? What are the materials and the process? Thanks!
Evaporust. Adam has done some videos on it a while ago at the home shop. It's just a liquid that you tip stuff in. My guess is that it's basically phosphoric acid.
Could you use the blueing process, like gun barreis instead of painting them? Then you not adding thickness to the metal.
Thanks Adam
more hole drilling!!!!! I just can't get enough
I was happy to see non cnc work, I enjoy that type of work.
I do have one question, you used a precision equipment base to pound in the v-blocks. Am I over thinking this?
Enjoy watching Patrick
Thanks Abom, fun video. I saw that anti-sieze and thought; ughh, like honey, that stuff gets everywhere.
you could mill them in place to get a perfect alignment
G'day Adam. The overall job worked out with slight variant off centre, which can be compensated through programming.
The problem being that the larger diameter shafts will have a few thousands of an inch variants depending on the length, but even these will have to be trammed in before machining.
So looking at your efforts, it looks good. 🎉🎉🎉
You can re-cut in place if you need more precision
Posted (and deleted) the same thing. Similar idea as truing surface grinder bed/chuck with the grinder itself.
And how would he do that with a fixed spindle???
@@liamkelly8684 It's a CNC... interpolation. Move two axes at once.
@@liamkelly8684 could go it with a cutter ground to the correct angle and stepping up and down on two axes
I don't know anything about fusion, I've been a mastercam guy for the last 20 years if it were me I would just run a flow line finish .003 step over and resurface the V blocks so they were parallel to each other. They have the big cut out in the bottom so it looks like there's plenty of room to get a 1/2" ball mill in there.
Ohhhhh that is some good reamer action. I'm glad I didn't have to open IG.
For the year end highlight reel. 32:15 The fall time is *12 seconds* from :20 to :32.
Enjoyed
Try spinning one of the V blocks around if they were machined as a pair they were cut clamped together so sides will match.
Good stuff
Adam, engine turning would look nice on the V blocks.
Check the back side of your V also. You may be able to turn one around to get a better alignment.
Adam
I think you said to allow 10% for the reamer. Should that have been 1%?
2 or 3%.
Good Sunday morning Adam.
Great video, you put a lot of hard work into fixturing the V blocks. As a hobbyist, I wonder if tapping with a soft face hammer the entire fixtures to correct the difference like you have demonstrated many times traming on the mill would have solved the misalignment or even slotting the holes for Y movement would help solve the issue? I guess it depends on how often the fixture is going to be used and its location on the rails. Heck, the temperature changes can probably change the outcome day to day depending how critical the tolerances are.
As always, I enjoy your content very much and thanks for sharing.
Adam are you going to do a clean up pass on the v faces with the flex cnc to ensure they are exactly the same?
@20:00 if you indicate the shaft at y axis ? Befor making holes,
I love your videos thanks Adam.
i think if use the edgefider on the 45 degree face of the V block it will work as long as you dont change Z height from side to side, have you tried this?
nevermind, I commented before realizing which side you were drilling from. I just needed to listen better in the beginning 🙂
Very nice work sir
Adam, you could try flipping one or the other around and see if you get them a little closer to each other.
Black oxide coating on those V blocks would look good.
Especially in the high-humidity in the Florida panhandle!
Can you use the flex to machine the V blocks in place on the flex?
I am ordering a hook rule right 😊
That 5 thousands dip in the middle is exactly why I never wanted to do this kind of work! My OCD wouldn't let me leave it that way and I'd end up chasing zero's all over the rest of the tool!
Is it possible that reversing the orientation of one of the V Block assemblies will lead to better alignment?
Would it be worth mounting those fixtures to the tiltable bed of the shaper and making those vblock faces true to each other?
Now I'm impressed! That's a nice fit. How much of a taper on those reamers? It can't be much.
Impressed about the 3 thou difference? The fit doesn’t matter if they are not in line
Another precision job, that I could only dream of achieving. Not sure I would have hammered in the pins with the fixture on the mill bed though.
given it's supposed to be able to handle the forces of cnc machining, I would assume it didn't even feel the soft blow?
@@gigaherz_You are probably right. But I'd still have taken them to that nice Fireball welding table, situated them over one of the legs with some plywood or similar underneath before wacking them.
3 thou is for you precision job ?
Could you write a program to go through and recut the V to be more true? Also did you try lifting the assembly and moving it to see how repeatable they were?
Nice project. In the future when you're machining the bottom of the v-block, you might want to mill around the base so it's easier to center the block for drilling the pins and center hole.
Did you try turning one of the blocks around? I know it shouldn't change but it's worth a try?
Great content thanks ❤
Look into diamond pins. One diamond pin and one dowel pin is a locating set
Great video. You need to put your logo on the v blocks. And maybe a date.😊
Nice! Those would look great with some red paint to match the Flex CNC.
Hi Adam, did you try turning one block around? may line up better also you could finish machine as a matched pair in the Flex, could make another video. Stay safe you guys
Do you mind me asking - that table that you made those V blocks for - what are you going to use ut for? Thanks
Is the flex capable of machining the v blocks even with each other?
Great tip 10%
This is kinda simple, I mean, basically a V-Block, but all upside down n stuff, looks really crazy.
It's almost kinda artistic, as much of machine work is.
he concentric on that V set is so close to perfect... Lock anything in there and bump or shim it around.
You got some wiggle room below too. That's a HEFTY set of Vblocks. Paint would be interesting, or blue them.
wouldn't it be possible to just mill the v blocks square and level to each other now that they are mounted on the cnc?
Yes . That is the only way to make them perfect. 3D milling whit ball endmill . Adam should have known that that doing it his way you accumulate errors and they will not be perfect at all.
32:15 for the money shot
That was really nice. I wonder, wouldn't it have been easier to make certain your test cylinder was in fact a cylinder? I know that the surface was chrome plated, but I've seen you true up cylinders before in a lathe. Then you could have trammed the cylinder on the sides and on the top rather than measuring the bottom of the v block. One less step to introduce error. Thanks for explaining how easy it is to use shims if the workpiece isn't sitting right on the blocks.
Ah, a Saturday with an Abom video, only made better by the Abom Machinst dowl pin fit. Was wondering if you would use the machine to true up the V.
Saturday night for me is now complete and I am going to get some sleep. Thanks forvthe video Adam
I remember you going to scraping classes, you could straighten them up in place and make another video as a bonus
Just a thought
Maybe should have swept the other sides of the vees, too. The heights of the vees may be slightly different and the additional sweep would pick this up.
Adom, try rotating one of the V-Blocks 180 degrees and recheck with the indicator, it may or may not make them closer to each other ? ? ?
32:30 😎
Bro, just say the word and I will bring my paint guns, and we can put a nice thin but durable catalyzed epoxy finish on those v blocks, and the vise
Sweet at 32:20/32:32 and 33:06/33:17
It would be nice if you had one channel for cnc and one for old school
Maybe... but that would be a ton of extra work. Probably would have to hire extra people.
Your stock left on that ream was correct, but your math was wrong. Typically with reamers, your pre-drill should be 2-3% smaller than the final ream size. For a .500 reamer, that's .010"-.015".
Try rotating one of the V blocks and try to see if it improves or remains the same. You never know.
How would those Vee blocks go if they were blued for rust protection?
Why do you reverse the countersink cutter? I think I can see that it makes a pretty chamfer but I don’t understand why.
Also a fella once told me faster rpm on the reamer for a slip fit and slower for a tighter fit. Maybe in a future vid you could address these.
He put the mill in reverse because he switched the mill to low gear. In low gear reverse is forward. Clear as mud? 😂
@@grntitan1 yes it is, thank you.
Look up shutter effects, rolling shutter vs light source frequency.
@@CothranMikeThat isn’t what was going on here. Adam clearly stated he put the mill in low gear(back gear) and ran the mill in reverse. Standard procedure on a knee mill in back gear.
@@grntitan1 I agree that Adam said all this, the OP eyes saw what I stated, let's ask the OP what he meant to settle this.
Yo @1911wood! What did you mean
That was a nice wedding night fit on those reamed holes. ;)
Thanks for pro tip "leave 10% for the reamer." BTW: do you mix your own brown cutting oil? What's your recipe? (I also like Anchor Lube)
He left 3% here for the reamer.
Adam, a question if you don’t mind. If you use shims for alinement won’t that throw off your parallel end to end for height? You might be better off decking the one side of the “V” block the .003 “.
Couldn’t you just use the FlexCNC to machine them dead straight?
Yep! I was gunna comment to model them in fusion and then skim them .005 with a 3d surfacing toolpath and they would be perfect!
Another place for diamond pins, check them out.
Paint…. Naaa. I’d go get a gun bluing kit and do the side faces.
Would love to see you set up and run multi station on the Flex CNC … along with long pieces… that’s what the Flex is made for.
Shims, yes, or mill elongated pin holes in one V block and put a screw adjustable vernier on it.
if you want these to be absolute perfect parallel, just machine them right there 45 degree each side and both are same to that setup / machine.
You went through the trouble of making that "centering plug" you should have used it as your datum surface instead of the flame cut edge. That would have insured that you were 90 degrees to the "V". It could also be used to measure the distance from center line of the "V" to the mounting surface and make any corrections if there was a difference between the 2 blocks by milling them. No shims needed. In the end you probably wouldn't have that .003" difference. At least that's how I would have done it.
If the goal is to find the center of the V not the center of the bottom of the block; assuming the sides of the V are perfectly perpendicular to each other, would it have been better to pick three Z heights, say 1/5th, 3/5ths, 4/5ths up from the bottom and probe to find the center on those and compare those three "centers"? If they all line up that confirms the sides of the V are perfectly perpendicular right?
The best way to do this would have been just bolted down and 3D mill it whit a ball endmill.
Adam , you’re a pretty smart guy, why did you do it this way it was so predictable that they won’t be in line because you accumulate a lot of errors and you work a lot , for a crappy result. Think like a CNC guy , 3D mill it
flip one.? 180 degrees...
Adam, i dont think you should have used the surface of the hot rolled plate to tram in and find the center. The v way may not be perfectly perpendicular to the surface you used as your reference. If you sweep the chrome rod, you pulled into the vally of the v, in x axis you could have verified it was perpendicular to the y axis dowel pins
I wouldn’t quite wrap up those “V” blocks yet.
For ease and convenience I recommend you elongate the “T” nut holes on the “V” blocks fixture plates to be able to slide the “T” nut studs into the “V” block fixture plates like on the vices instead of trying to fish through the holes to thread the studs into the “T” nuts.👍