FIX THE RUNOUT ON A BUCK 3 JAW ADJUST TRU CHUCK
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- CAN I FIX THE RUNOUT ON THIS BUCK 3 JAW ADJUST TRU CHUCK?
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Makes life easier when you see someone else do it. Thanks Good video 👍
Right On! 👍 Thanks Joe I appreciate your feedback!
I recently bought a new 8” Buck Adjust-True. Fortunately, my lathe mount is very accurate, within 0.0001”, which surprised me, but I measured it several times with my Interrapid tenths indicator. Using a high precision 1” by 6” rod, with better than 0.00005” concentricity, I was able to bring the chuck to + - 0.0001”. Getting to the rated five tenths was easy. It took another 15 minutes to get to the final spec. What I’ve found over the years is that these chucks will hold their adjusted accuracy to about one third to three times the diameter of the measuring pin. I check the adjustment every so often. There’s a slight wear from a new chuck for some use, but after that, it settles down.
One thing to watch out for is that the mounting screws need to be slightly snug when making the adjustments. After you get that adjustment made, and you’re thrilled about how close it is, and you begin to very carefully tighten those mounting screws, which need to be pretty tight, your adjustment will begin to move out. So don’t remove your indicator set-up until you’re done.
Buck recommends a moly grease for their scroll chucks, as do pretty much every scroll chuck manufacturer. In fact, they do t recommend it, they tell you to use it. Some make their own. Rolm says that their moly grease gives 25% more gripping power. Kitigowa also made their own moly grease, called Chuck-EZ, but since sold the division. It’s what I use. Oil shouldn’t be used in a scroll chuck other than on the pinion bearings. Then, way oil is used. The reason is that oil spins away from the working parts of the chuck when it’s turning from centripetal force. So the oil isn’t on the working parts, and it ends up almost dry. That increases the wear, and lowers the torque the chuck can apply to the work.
I know some people think that the grease will hold chips, but oil does too. If a chuck is properly used, the scroll is never subject to chips. Only if the chuck jaws are turned out so far that the scroll is visible will that happen. A chuck jaw should never be used far out enough to see the scroll.
By the way, Buck, and some other manufacturer’s say that for greatest accuracy only tighten one pinion. Always tighten the same pinion. My chuck, as have other Bucks I’ve opened, have an arrow pointing to one pinion. There are just two pinions. For greatest torque, use all pinions.
Good job. But really, replace the oil with the proper grease.
It just makes you feel good when you take something apart that is all grimy and grungy ..Clean and polish it and bring it back to close to a new one
It is so satisfying!! It was effortless work in the shop to clean that up. The time just flew by!
Thank you for sharing this!! Just got one and I’m looking forward to bringing it back to life , a good life :)
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I don't know much about it but. I learned something amazing. 😊 thanks again 😊
Nice work. Enjoyed the demostration for alignment of your chuck.
Right On! 👍 Thanks John!
Better than new!! Well done Bud!!☺
Right On Roadking! 👍 Thanks. I really enjoyed that shovel video you did!
Cool to watch Jon-san,
Even for those of us who don't have such awesome tools, it is super cool to see how those chucks work and how smart it is to clean it,,, or what a good idea it is to look at cleaning up the tools we do have.
Thanks for your great videos brother!
Awesome John. I have the same Buck Chuck on my 1960's 12.5 x 42 Cincinnati. It needs a cleaning and adjustment. Hope I'm successful like you on the repair. Really like the history too! Thanks!!
Right On! 👍🙌
very nice! thanks for walking through that
Not a machinist but have always had a deep appreciation for the trade. Awsome video! On another note had Taylor pork roll today for the first time (they didn’t have ham)..... it’s life changing👍
Right On! 👍 That is awesome! 😃 It is quite good!
I used a lathe at work that had a big old Bison chuck on it and it wasn't true... The body was but like your chuck the held piece was always off.. I tried for a long time to get it true but it wasn't cooperating! You did a fantastic job bringing it back to such close tolerances! Outstanding Jon!!!!!
I’m sure that was a cool shop at the bus company! Always makes me think of Ralph Kramden! And away we go!
Jon, I've never seen a chuck completely disassembled. Had many jaws apart but not the whole chuck. I would really like to see how they machined them 55 years ago. Really good machinists with no CNC! Great video as always. Right On Jon! 👍🇺🇸Roger
Right On! 👍 Yes those old time machinists like my grandfather were some skilled folks! No computers back then!
cool, but few things 90% of the machinist forget to make
1. check for grip: are all the three jaws teeth touching?
2. check for jaws parallelism: are all the 3 jaws parallel to each other?
3. check for test piece parallelism to the centerline, without using 2 dial indicators one close to the chuck and the other far from it you are really dialing the part from a single point only while the rest of the part is wobbling
4. checking runout at different diameters
i have not seen any test from the above
my best regards
Nicly done. Those are great chucks. I have a 6 jaw 10" Buck Adj-True on my big lathe and a 6 jaw 6" Buck Adj-Tru on my 11" Logan. love them both.
Right On! 👍 Thanks Randy. I’ve got to order a jar of that Moly Paste!
@@RightOnJonCrane Works great.
Again very interesting and enjoyable. Thanks
Right On! 👍 Thanks Tony!
Nice job! It is amazing how much crud was tn there. Great stuff! Cheers
Right on Joe! 👍 Thanks. Yeah this Chuck was a treasure chest of grime!
Great vid Jon 🇬🇧✊🏻
Right On! 👍 Thanks Jim!!!
Foreman finally shown up...txs for sharing
Ha! Yes! Finally came in to oversee the riff raff in the shop and get me back on track!! 😄👍💫
As a wood worker I never had any interest in what you metal heads did but I’m beginning to get drawn into it…I can see now where the interest in metalworking can be as captivating as WOODWORKING...not bad...really liked the breakdown and rebuild...dam metalworking machines are too expensive...no I’m not getting into it...lol...stay safe..…
Watch out Chuck! Before you know it you’ll have a milling machine in the shop! 😃👍👍
It's hard to take time out to tune up the equipment but sometimes it's gotta be done. Then of course after you do it, you wonder why you waited so long.
Exactly!! Sometimes it doesn’t take long and then it’s done and all is good in the world! Well at least in the shop! 😄
Nice Chuck!
Right On! 👍 Thanks!
Pretty cool video Jon... well done. Please be careful you don’t mixup that anti-seize with your real ‘chapstick’, lol, yuk and ouch!
Right! I don’t want to put that in my pocket on the ski slopes! 🤣😂
14:38 Why not add brass inserts into the adjusting screws?
I was just eating some Taylor Ham and thought about your Videos..
Ha! That’s great! I’m due for a sandwich myself!
Have you tried how close it runs with various sizes over the whole range?
That would be a good test! After using it now for some time it seems to be running true or close to true on various sizes.
Thanks for watching! 👍✨
I’m not so sure i trust official inflation numbers. I think the real life inflation is closer to 10x, maybe even 11 or 12x. So maybe with manufacturing technology advancements over the last 60+ years and borderline slave labor in an Asian country or two, prices have dropped! Just trying to stay positive.
Meserie te halesc ! 👏
Désolé ce n'est pas la bonne méthodologie. Il ne faut pas décentrer le corps du mandrin pour centrer les mors, cela entraine une contrainte sur les roulements ou paliers. Le décentrage de la pièce maintenue est du à l'usure de l'escargot, il fallait dans ce cas réusiner les mors pour rattraper cette usure. Vous avez déplacer le problème qui va engendrez d'autres complications.
would u like to send your email we are a tool manufacturer, want to cooperate with you