So much to learn! I'm planning on getting a sliding table saw because I plan mainly to do speakers and panel based items. CNC may be my path to many parts but I dont see a point using that to do standard panels. I found this very helpful Ramon - as I have all of your videos. I am disappointed that the YT algorithm favours a bunch of hacks reviewing tools they just unboxed and all teaching the same crap in their "10 things you don't know you didn't need to know and don't care about" vids instead of promoting channels that are a real source of learning and library with accessible wisdom.
Hello Michael You will love a sliding table saw…for many reasons! And thanks for the good words…that really means a ton to me! I sometimes cringe as to what the high subscription based TH-camrs regurgitate! 🤷♂️ That’s okay…I have a lot more info to share and comments like yours is what inspires me. Cheers
Thanks a lot! You’re gonna love your new saw. Here’s another video that you may find useful. (It’s more than the title) No more little off-cuts getting caught between your saw blade and slider! th-cam.com/video/Mv-ZFMGU_EA/w-d-xo.html
Another excellent video, Ramon. You are a wealth of knowledge!! I used a cabinet saw in my home shop for more than 20 years before I switched to my K3. It took me a while to get used to the slider, but I can't imagine going back to a cabinet saw. There are so many things that are safer and easier on the slider. Thanks for the reminder on setting the blade to 90 degrees. I had used that cut and flip approach before, but I had forgotten it so it was great to have you show that. That complimentary angle trick is genius. I need to make a mental note of that the next time I have to make that cut. I'm looking forward to part 2. Thanks a ton!!
David…I always appreciate your feedback! Yes…sliders can create a huge advantage in woodworking! I love the cut n flip to check 90° at the slider or even the chop saw. A similar method can be used at the band saw as well. Slice part way into a tall block…move it to the back side whilst rotating the block 180°, and attempt to bring the cut or kerf into the back edge of the blade. This can quickly tell the user if the table is 90° to the blade. You probably were aware of that already. Anyway …thanks a lot!
Ramon, many thanks for sharing your very useful slider knowledge! my MiniMax SC4 was a game changer and worth every penny. thanks again!, really appreciate it! Bill Garbus , Arcisan Studio, CT USA
Great video, Ramon, thanks ! Reminded me to check the outrigger on my C3-31 , it was out, needed adjustment. Very cool getting the complement angle at 16:58. My compliments to you, sir !
Great to hear…congrats! And thanks for the feedback. BTW…if you’re on Instagram…check out David Bedrosian. @bedrosianwoodworks From the search bar, use his hashtag #bedrosianslidingtablesaw and you’ll find a lot of great slider tips. Whilst you’re at it, #ramonartfultips is another good one😬
Awesome as always. @7:30 Is the reason you don't use the cross cut fence & rip fence at the same time because of potential kickback? Could you pull back the rip fence behind the blade & use it as a stop? Thanks
It’s typical to NOT use both the fence and the crosscut slider fence at the same time…as you mentioned, because it could bind. In this part of the video I’m showing one option for cutting multiple, same sized pieces and just using the rip fence. The reason I like using the rip fence in its normal position is because if I end up with a piece only slightly larger than it’s intended size, I can easily just run it through using the rip fence. Rather than having to stop, adjust the fence forward and make the cut. Now…that being said…if the stock I’m cutting is narrow but long, then it’s advisable to do it as you mentioned with the piece of stock against the crosscut fence, and the rip fence only used as a stop, and pulled back. That’s the beauty of a slider…so many options and safe ways to make the cuts. Thanks for the feedback!
Excellent narration. So nice not to hear the whine of tools or some other guy's choice of loud music. Further, I'm looking for insight into the usefulness of a slider for my operation. A lucky find for me. Thanks.
Thanks Mark! I love sharing what works for me. Music may help create a “more polished video” but I’m about showing what works. I agree with you, often times I’ll leave TH-cam and what seems like a good video, simply because someone’s choice of music is drowning out what’s being said or it’s just annoying. 😆 🙏🏼
I love my K-3 made some mods to mine also. Put. a DRO on the fence makes it easy to measure. Put a 0 clearance on the front fence so I know exactly where the cut will happen. The fritz jig is a must.
I’ve been meaning to add a zero clearance block to my front fence. What does your digital readout look like? That would be much better than sighting down the fence! I can’t believe that they didn’t even add some sort of magnified cursor. thanks
@@ramonartful Sorry I didn’t mean to send that if you would like send me your email address and I’ll send you pictures of the install it will make it a lot easier. Super accurate dead on.
@@chrisswartzwelder8494 That would be cool! I dont really want to put my email address on here. Are you on Instagram? Maybe a DM would be better. My IG is instagram.com/ramonartful Thanks!
Great to hear! Also, check out David Bedrosian on Instagram…he has a lot of good info! Use hashtag Bedrosianslidingtablesaw to search those specific posts. Thanks
Hello enjoyed your video about zero clearance throat plate for Felder sliding saw. I have a K 700 and I am interested in getting a zero clearance and a plate for a dado set up. I saw that you make these was hoping to purchase one.
Good good tips Ramon... Make sure you show your custom throat insert in one of these vids in the series coz baby!...it's da bomb. Still gotta finish mine 😕
Hi! Great video, just got a slider myself and I'm still learning to work with it after selling my cabinet saw. I do have a question though- You said in the video "never use the cross cut fence and the table saw fence at the same time" which makes sense. However- at 11:28 how is that cut achieved without using both fences? Thanks in advance!
I should have been more clear. I’m using the crosscut portion and the rip fence at the same time, however, the rip fence is pulled back. The cut pieces aren’t trapped. I hope I understood your question correctly. Much thanks.
@@siriosstar4789 just watched it at 8:26... the fence is fully extended, yes...but I am NOT pushing tight to the cross cut fence. So...I am not using the table saw fence and the cross cut fence at the same time. Makes sense? thanks
alright so i watched this about half a year ago and have been trying out your way of cutting ( not cutting with both the fence and the arm) i was succesfull with smaller sized panels but when cutting 4x8 down to like 24 i have a hard time holding down my peace while sliding the arm and pushing the right side to the fense, ive seen many videos on people cutting on these sliders and ive yet to see some one cut like you D:. I know you are supper smart and ive learend a bunch from your channel just thought id share my exp maybe some tips on how to wrestle the longer bigger sheets on a slider.
It’s all about position and pressure, right? If I’m cutting a 4x8 lengthwise…I would be standing at the bottom left corner to start. Not behind the sheet but at the corner. Then as I begin the cut, I begin to move closer towards the center of the sheet. (The four foot end) All the while I’m pushing diagonally towards the fence. Of course as I near the end of the ripping cut…I’m keeping the sheet tight to the fence as I push it sideways towards the fence. Hope this helps. I am putting together more footage on cutting at a slider…stay tuned for that. Much thanks.
just wondering is the cross cutting method 10:55 can also apply for the big sheet? because some time I will need cut a rail from a new sheet and also would like to know how further is the ripping fence you normally will set ? is it ok to set 10mm in front of the blade
Shoot…sorry about that. Google search “five cut method”…find one that’s applicable to your situation. Some are used for sliding table saws and others for crosscut sleds. But the method is the same and helps to dial in a perfectly cutting saw. Cheers
Awesome video, I just got the same saw and i cant wait to use it. Question I have is what size breaker do you have? They say 30 amp but I have heard some people still use a 20 amp.
Is the blade squared to the table from the factory, or is the blade fixed and non-adjustable? My concern is what is it that you work off of first in order to get every thing squared and parallel?
Great question. The blade must be parallel to the sliding carriage. (From the factory, mine was/is) Then the rip fence can be adjusted parallel to those. Now the cross cut fence can be adjusted to be square to the carriage, blade and rip fence. In operation, one (factory) edge is placed against the cross cut fence, as an adjacent edge is cut or trimmed. Then that clean edge goes against the crosscut fence and another adjacent edge is produced, creating a perfect 90° corner. From that, all pieces can be cut. Hope that makes sense. Thanks
Very educational as always! Never heard you mention a radial arm saw (aka a finger saw), wonder what you think about them. Sometimes that's the next-best-thing for shops without a slider.
Thank you. And you’re absolutely correct about radical arm saws. I use to have one and sometimes wish that I still did. Great for slider saw type tasks if the work pieces are small. Thanks a ton for the input!
Worst comment I have seen. It is well documented the the RAS is the most injurious tool in a shop and the injuries are horrrible. It was the first saw I got and the first one I got rid of. I'm 75 and have had a shop since I was 20, and never cut by a tool.
No…I don’t. I suppose you could. But even cutting cross grain, solid wood components… they don’t chip out. Well, I should add…as long as the blade is good! Thanks
That's an upgrade Harri. When I was pricing slider options 18 months ago I found the Hammers to be almost a custom made item but by the time I'd specced out the options I wanted it was actually cheaper ( in Aus ) to buy a much larger Minimax saw ( SC4E ) with overhead blade guard and seperate scoring motor ( not slaved off the main like the hammer ). Yes there are some great tips in this video, making a set of those hold downs is certainly on my list.
Thanks Rob. I wouldn’t have remembered that Harri. I love the fence except that there is no cursor. You simply sight the scale with the edge of the fence. Took me a while to get used to it…I like it now. I call these sliders entry level but the main reason I purchased it was the small footprint. My shop where my machines are is narrow, 16+’ x 32’ (about 5meters x nearly 10 meters) And I can still handle full size sheets but I mostly cut 5x5 Baltic. Overall, the saw has been great for me. Anyway, thanks for checking out the vid. Come back next Sunday for part 2!
Thanks for sharing all the tips. Very useful. One question, if the slider is not at the same level as the cast iron won’t this make the edge being ripped out of square instead of being 90 degrees?
That’s a good question. But the slider part is set only a couple of thousandths higher. I’ve checked it many time ripping lumber …the edges are always square. Ideally you would use the slider to rip, the fence pulled back to prevent binding. But in general, the very slight difference of the tables is not an issue. Thanks 🙏🏼
@@ramonartful thanks for your reply. Yeah it sounds like practically it ends up being within the tolerances needed for woodworking. Seeing you demonstrate the versatility of this saw I am seriously considering adding slider to my sawstop.
Ramon, many thanks for this little series. I purchased a K3 earlier this year and this is the first really useful info on its flexibility. One question for you and others. Where do you like to get your blades from? Do you just use the Felder blades. That 30 mm arbor size is not easy to find in the US.
Thank you tons. The blades are actually not too hard to find. At first, I had purchased three 10” blades from Felder/Hammer but have found others on Amazon! I have a few 12” blades that cut really well. I’ll find the type and send you a link. Did you see my recent video on saw blades? Thanks
@@ramonartful Awesome I would appreciate it. I am new to your channel so I just started working my way through your vids. I was so pumped to find the sliding saw vids that I commented right away! I will definitely look for the saw blade one. I tried Amazon but I guess I didn't have the right mix of search words. I will give it another shot.
@@r7j7t7 Here is one that I like. 12" with holes for the Felder/Hammer saws: amzn.to/3rucq6s And another one that looks a lot like the "Silent Power", also in a 12". The 12" blades seem to cut better than 10"...more mass = less vibration perhaps. amzn.to/3rue7Rl
I believe that the slider needs to be a few thousandths higher than the cast iron table. I have used one that was messed with and had been adjusted flush. It was a challenge to push parts through…very awkward. I do realize that when cutting narrow stock that it could make the edges out of square. But it’s negligible. And one could always use the slider part to carry the work, and the fence as a gauge. In general, I use my smaller saw for lumber and my K3 for sheet goods. I plan on adding a TigerFence soon! Thanks for the question 🙏🏼
@@ramonartful Thank you so much for your content and your reply. I just received my Hammer k3 and and considering my options for setup. I unfortunately intend to only have the K3, and not a cabinet saw as I am already pushing my space limitations. Do you believe that even for lumber, a few thousands taller is better than flush?
@@horacionochetto8454 As you start to use a sliding table saw more & more...you'll see the benefit of the slider that is a few thousandths higher than the cast iron table. I've noticed when I clamp a board (solid lumber or sheet form)...If it's warped even a little and bowed downwards, it has drag as I make the cut. This would be worse if the two tables were flush. So in your case...unless your making very narrow cuts off of a narrow board you won't have an issue with edges being out of square. Or as I mentioned before, cut off of the left of the blade. Thanks
@@horacionochetto8454 Yes...absolutely. It will keep parts (lumber) from binding as you cut. You'll quickly learn how to accommodate for the slight offset. As I had previously mentioned...its only an issue when you're cutting narrow parts with the rip fence and part of the board is "up" on the carriage. And your zero clearance inserts are being shipped today...thanks so much for the order! You're gonna love em!
@ramonartful Man, your tutorials are awesome! The informational density and calorie count about makes a woodworker's brain blow up --- hard to digest all the tips in a single viewing. I don't know how you manage the time while still getting the client work done. We're all damn lucky that you do!
awesome video and very helpful tips . hopefully i will pick up a 25 year old SCM slider later this week . do you have any dimensions or drawings for the hold down clamps you are using in the video ? stay safe and best of luck
If the sliding table is above the cast iron table, and the blade is at 90 degrees to the cast iron table, the using the fence on a parallel cut, the cut will never be at 90 degrees. Is that correct?
Yes...you are correct. However, this only applies to cutting narrow strips...like maybe 2 or 3 inches in width. They can tip (literally a few thousandths) and end up out of square. Probably negligible. I may do some tests. So for the most part...a properly tuned slider is an amazing machine! Thanks for watching!
No estoy seguro. En 2017, fue de unos 7000 dólares estadounidenses. No sé si envían a Panamá. Aquí está su sitio web. Gracias www.felder-group.com/en-us/brand/hammer
Great video! Thanks for the useful info! I’ve been struggling getting used to using a sliding table so this helps. Em where did you get the large rectangular t-slot nuts for your shop made clamps? Did you buy them from felder or make them yourself?
Great to hear. I’m working on content for another YT vid on sliders…stay tuned for that. Also, check out my improved version of hold down clamps…these work extremely well. And yes, I make the blocks and sell the knurled bolts. Thanks instagram.com/reel/CifM8rajSjX/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
So much to learn!
I'm planning on getting a sliding table saw because I plan mainly to do speakers and panel based items. CNC may be my path to many parts but I dont see a point using that to do standard panels.
I found this very helpful Ramon - as I have all of your videos.
I am disappointed that the YT algorithm favours a bunch of hacks reviewing tools they just unboxed and all teaching the same crap in their "10 things you don't know you didn't need to know and don't care about" vids instead of promoting channels that are a real source of learning and library with accessible wisdom.
Hello Michael
You will love a sliding table saw…for many reasons!
And thanks for the good words…that really means a ton to me! I sometimes cringe as to what the high subscription based TH-camrs regurgitate! 🤷♂️ That’s okay…I have a lot more info to share and comments like yours is what inspires me. Cheers
Outstanding tricks and tips, thanks. I just bought a new 12' slider. Waiting for delivery
Thanks a lot! You’re gonna love your new saw. Here’s another video that you may find useful. (It’s more than the title)
No more little off-cuts getting caught between your saw blade and slider!
th-cam.com/video/Mv-ZFMGU_EA/w-d-xo.html
Another excellent video, Ramon. You are a wealth of knowledge!! I used a cabinet saw in my home shop for more than 20 years before I switched to my K3. It took me a while to get used to the slider, but I can't imagine going back to a cabinet saw. There are so many things that are safer and easier on the slider.
Thanks for the reminder on setting the blade to 90 degrees. I had used that cut and flip approach before, but I had forgotten it so it was great to have you show that.
That complimentary angle trick is genius. I need to make a mental note of that the next time I have to make that cut.
I'm looking forward to part 2. Thanks a ton!!
David…I always appreciate your feedback! Yes…sliders can create a huge advantage in woodworking!
I love the cut n flip to check 90° at the slider or even the chop saw. A similar method can be used at the band saw as well. Slice part way into a tall block…move it to the back side whilst rotating the block 180°, and attempt to bring the cut or kerf into the back edge of the blade. This can quickly tell the user if the table is 90° to the blade. You probably were aware of that already.
Anyway …thanks a lot!
I just got a Minimax SC3. These are great tips. Thank you.
That’s good to hear! And congrats on the saw!
Ramon, many thanks for sharing your very useful slider knowledge! my MiniMax SC4 was a game changer and worth every penny. thanks again!, really appreciate it! Bill Garbus , Arcisan Studio, CT USA
Sliders are such a huge help in the shop. Thanks for the good words !
High quality video with some very good tips. Thanks a lot for posting this Ramon! Love from Norway.
Thank you tons for the feedback! I appreciate it!
Loved this video. That gauge block is especially brilliant.
Thank you thank you! I appreciate the feedback!
Great video, Ramon, thanks ! Reminded me to check the outrigger on my C3-31 , it was out, needed adjustment. Very cool getting the complement angle at 16:58. My compliments to you, sir !
Glad you liked it ! Thanks for the feedback
Thank you Ramon, tons of good tips in this video!
Glad you like! Thanks
Awesome video. Learn so much from your no nonsense approaches to everything.
Awesome…. Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
Wow, a boatload of tips. Thank you Ramon.
Paul
Great to hear! Next week I’ll have part II. Thanks a ton
I made these hold downs, an essential add on!
That’s great to hear! You’re gonna love them! Much thanks.
3:10. Does not the outrigger support also have vertical adjustment?
Yes, good point that I should have touched on. That adjustment helps overall, the ones I’m tweaking help with twist. Thanks for your input.
My SCM is suppose to be here any day now....my first slider. This was super helpful. Keep making videos. Subbed.
Great to hear…congrats! And thanks for the feedback. BTW…if you’re on Instagram…check out David Bedrosian. @bedrosianwoodworks From the search bar, use his hashtag #bedrosianslidingtablesaw and you’ll find a lot of great slider tips. Whilst you’re at it, #ramonartfultips is another good one😬
@@ramonartful Will do....thanks for the heads up and advice.
Awesome as always.
@7:30
Is the reason you don't use the cross cut fence & rip fence at the same time because of potential kickback?
Could you pull back the rip fence behind the blade & use it as a stop?
Thanks
It’s typical to NOT use both the fence and the crosscut slider fence at the same time…as you mentioned, because it could bind. In this part of the video I’m showing one option for cutting multiple, same sized pieces and just using the rip fence. The reason I like using the rip fence in its normal position is because if I end up with a piece only slightly larger than it’s intended size, I can easily just run it through using the rip fence. Rather than having to stop, adjust the fence forward and make the cut. Now…that being said…if the stock I’m cutting is narrow but long, then it’s advisable to do it as you mentioned with the piece of stock against the crosscut fence, and the rip fence only used as a stop, and pulled back. That’s the beauty of a slider…so many options and safe ways to make the cuts. Thanks for the feedback!
@@ramonartful Thanks Ramon
Great video Ramon! Thanks so much!!
Glad to hear that you liked! Thanks
Excellent narration. So nice not to hear the whine of tools or some other guy's choice of loud music. Further, I'm looking for insight into the usefulness of a slider for my operation. A lucky find for me. Thanks.
Thanks Mark! I love sharing what works for me. Music may help create a “more polished video” but I’m about showing what works. I agree with you, often times I’ll leave TH-cam and what seems like a good video, simply because someone’s choice of music is drowning out what’s being said or it’s just annoying. 😆 🙏🏼
Now I really want a sliding table saw
Oh man! Sliders are sooo versatile!
I love my K-3 made some mods to mine also. Put. a DRO on the fence makes it easy to measure. Put a 0 clearance on the front fence so I know exactly where the cut will happen. The fritz jig is a must.
I’ve been meaning to add a zero clearance block to my front fence. What does your digital readout look like? That would be much better than sighting down the fence! I can’t believe that they didn’t even add some sort of magnified cursor. thanks
@@ramonartful I used the Wixey DRO end it is dead on. I had to modify things
@@ramonartful Sorry I didn’t mean to send that if you would like send me your email address and I’ll send you pictures of the install it will make it a lot easier. Super accurate dead on.
@@chrisswartzwelder8494 That would be cool! I dont really want to put my email address on here. Are you on Instagram? Maybe a DM would be better. My IG is instagram.com/ramonartful
Thanks!
The DRO is on your rip fence? Thx
My high school had a slider,, Even after working in 8 (or so) furniture shops,, that is the only one I have ever used..
I love em…super versatile. Thanks
great video! exactly what im looking for
Great to hear! Also, check out David Bedrosian on Instagram…he has a lot of good info! Use hashtag Bedrosianslidingtablesaw to search those specific posts. Thanks
Hello enjoyed your video about zero clearance throat plate for Felder sliding saw. I have a K 700 and I am interested in getting a zero clearance and a plate for a dado set up. I saw that you make these was hoping to purchase one.
Thanks for watching my video. Unfortunately my ZCI’s only fit the Hammer models and Felder 500 series.
Good good tips Ramon... Make sure you show your custom throat insert in one of these vids in the series coz baby!...it's da bomb. Still gotta finish mine 😕
Thanks man! I believe it’s in part II. 👊🏼🙏🏼
Great stuff!
I don't have a slider but still good to watch and possibly use in other ways, here's me thinking sliders were just for cutting sheets.
You’re so right! Sliders are vastly versatile! Much thanks.
great video, really good info as always
Thanks a ton , Scott!
Hi! Great video, just got a slider myself and I'm still learning to work with it after selling my cabinet saw. I do have a question though- You said in the video "never use the cross cut fence and the table saw fence at the same time" which makes sense. However- at 11:28 how is that cut achieved without using both fences? Thanks in advance!
I should have been more clear. I’m using the crosscut portion and the rip fence at the same time, however, the rip fence is pulled back. The cut pieces aren’t trapped. I hope I understood your question correctly. Much thanks.
No, at 8:26 the fence is fully extended and the board is making contact with the fence throughout the entire cut . that is incorrect .
@@siriosstar4789 just watched it at 8:26... the fence is fully extended, yes...but I am NOT pushing tight to the cross cut fence. So...I am not using the table saw fence and the cross cut fence at the same time. Makes sense? thanks
I have this hammer saw thank you for this tip
Glad I could help! Much thanks
alright so i watched this about half a year ago and have been trying out your way of cutting ( not cutting with both the fence and the arm) i was succesfull with smaller sized panels but when cutting 4x8 down to like 24 i have a hard time holding down my peace while sliding the arm and pushing the right side to the fense, ive seen many videos on people cutting on these sliders and ive yet to see some one cut like you D:. I know you are supper smart and ive learend a bunch from your channel just thought id share my exp maybe some tips on how to wrestle the longer bigger sheets on a slider.
It’s all about position and pressure, right? If I’m cutting a 4x8 lengthwise…I would be standing at the bottom left corner to start. Not behind the sheet but at the corner. Then as I begin the cut, I begin to move closer towards the center of the sheet. (The four foot end) All the while I’m pushing diagonally towards the fence. Of course as I near the end of the ripping cut…I’m keeping the sheet tight to the fence as I push it sideways towards the fence. Hope this helps. I am putting together more footage on cutting at a slider…stay tuned for that. Much thanks.
@@ramonartful thanks pops will keep trying! cant wait for the video.
Great video!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for the feedback
just wondering is the cross cutting method 10:55 can also apply for the big sheet? because some time I will need cut a rail from a new sheet and also would like to know how further is the ripping fence you normally will set ? is it ok to set 10mm in front of the blade
Yes…it is a good method for narrow stock as well as full width sheet material. Thanks
@@ramonartful thank you so much that is really helpful
Hello Ramon.. I coudn't find the "5 cut method" in the link you posted. Great video BTW.
Shoot…sorry about that. Google search “five cut method”…find one that’s applicable to your situation. Some are used for sliding table saws and others for crosscut sleds. But the method is the same and helps to dial in a perfectly cutting saw. Cheers
Awesome video, I just got the same saw and i cant wait to use it. Question I have is what size breaker do you have? They say 30 amp but I have heard some people still use a 20 amp.
Good to hear, thanks! I have 30 amp on mine, so I’m not sure.
Is the blade squared to the table from the factory, or is the blade fixed and non-adjustable? My concern is what is it that you work off of first in order to get every thing squared and parallel?
Great question. The blade must be parallel to the sliding carriage. (From the factory, mine was/is) Then the rip fence can be adjusted parallel to those. Now the cross cut fence can be adjusted to be square to the carriage, blade and rip fence. In operation, one (factory) edge is placed against the cross cut fence, as an adjacent edge is cut or trimmed. Then that clean edge goes against the crosscut fence and another adjacent edge is produced, creating a perfect 90° corner. From that, all pieces can be cut. Hope that makes sense. Thanks
Very educational as always! Never heard you mention a radial arm saw (aka a finger saw), wonder what you think about them. Sometimes that's the next-best-thing for shops without a slider.
Thank you. And you’re absolutely correct about radical arm saws. I use to have one and sometimes wish that I still did. Great for slider saw type tasks if the work pieces are small. Thanks a ton for the input!
Radical Saw! Radial….😆
@@ramonartful Radical!! haha 🤙 rad
Worst comment I have seen. It is well documented the the RAS is the most injurious tool in a shop and the injuries are horrrible. It was the first saw I got and the first one I got rid of. I'm 75 and have had a shop since I was 20, and never cut by a tool.
Do you use your scoring blade when you’re cutting hardwood?
No…I don’t. I suppose you could. But even cutting cross grain, solid wood components… they don’t chip out. Well, I should add…as long as the blade is good! Thanks
Is the ripfence original? My K3 does not have a push lever to tighten the fence 🤔. Thanks for the great tips!
That's an upgrade Harri. When I was pricing slider options 18 months ago I found the Hammers to be almost a custom made item but by the time I'd specced out the options I wanted it was actually cheaper ( in Aus ) to buy a much larger Minimax saw ( SC4E ) with overhead blade guard and seperate scoring motor ( not slaved off the main like the hammer ).
Yes there are some great tips in this video, making a set of those hold downs is certainly on my list.
Thanks Rob. I wouldn’t have remembered that Harri. I love the fence except that there is no cursor. You simply sight the scale with the edge of the fence. Took me a while to get used to it…I like it now. I call these sliders entry level but the main reason I purchased it was the small footprint. My shop where my machines are is narrow, 16+’ x 32’ (about 5meters x nearly 10 meters) And I can still handle full size sheets but I mostly cut 5x5 Baltic. Overall, the saw has been great for me.
Anyway, thanks for checking out the vid. Come back next Sunday for part 2!
Thanks for sharing all the tips. Very useful. One question, if the slider is not at the same level as the cast iron won’t this make the edge being ripped out of square instead of being 90 degrees?
That’s a good question. But the slider part is set only a couple of thousandths higher. I’ve checked it many time ripping lumber …the edges are always square. Ideally you would use the slider to rip, the fence pulled back to prevent binding.
But in general, the very slight difference of the tables is not an issue. Thanks 🙏🏼
@@ramonartful thanks for your reply. Yeah it sounds like practically it ends up being within the tolerances needed for woodworking. Seeing you demonstrate the versatility of this saw I am seriously considering adding slider to my sawstop.
Ramon, many thanks for this little series. I purchased a K3 earlier this year and this is the first really useful info on its flexibility. One question for you and others. Where do you like to get your blades from? Do you just use the Felder blades. That 30 mm arbor size is not easy to find in the US.
Thank you tons. The blades are actually not too hard to find. At first, I had purchased three 10” blades from Felder/Hammer but have found others on Amazon! I have a few 12” blades that cut really well. I’ll find the type and send you a link. Did you see my recent video on saw blades? Thanks
@@ramonartful Awesome I would appreciate it. I am new to your channel so I just started working my way through your vids. I was so pumped to find the sliding saw vids that I commented right away! I will definitely look for the saw blade one. I tried Amazon but I guess I didn't have the right mix of search words. I will give it another shot.
@@r7j7t7 Here is one that I like. 12" with holes for the Felder/Hammer saws: amzn.to/3rucq6s
And another one that looks a lot like the "Silent Power", also in a 12". The 12" blades seem to cut better than 10"...more mass = less vibration perhaps. amzn.to/3rue7Rl
General question Ramon, have you adjusted the slider to be perfectly parallel to the cast iron table? Or did you leave it a couple thousands higher?
I believe that the slider needs to be a few thousandths higher than the cast iron table. I have used one that was messed with and had been adjusted flush. It was a challenge to push parts through…very awkward.
I do realize that when cutting narrow stock that it could make the edges out of square. But it’s negligible. And one could always use the slider part to carry the work, and the fence as a gauge. In general, I use my smaller saw for lumber and my K3 for sheet goods. I plan on adding a TigerFence soon! Thanks for the question 🙏🏼
@@ramonartful Thank you so much for your content and your reply. I just received my Hammer k3 and and considering my options for setup. I unfortunately intend to only have the K3, and not a cabinet saw as I am already pushing my space limitations. Do you believe that even for lumber, a few thousands taller is better than flush?
@@horacionochetto8454 As you start to use a sliding table saw more & more...you'll see the benefit of the slider that is a few thousandths higher than the cast iron table. I've noticed when I clamp a board (solid lumber or sheet form)...If it's warped even a little and bowed downwards, it has drag as I make the cut. This would be worse if the two tables were flush. So in your case...unless your making very narrow cuts off of a narrow board you won't have an issue with edges being out of square. Or as I mentioned before, cut off of the left of the blade. Thanks
@@horacionochetto8454 Yes...absolutely. It will keep parts (lumber) from binding as you cut. You'll quickly learn how to accommodate for the slight offset. As I had previously mentioned...its only an issue when you're cutting narrow parts with the rip fence and part of the board is "up" on the carriage. And your zero clearance inserts are being shipped today...thanks so much for the order! You're gonna love em!
Muy bien, ,el tubo para la aspiración abajo de la mesa es un infierno cambiar lo....
No es tan malo. El mío no recoge palos pequeños porque tengo insertos Zero Clearance hechos a medida. Los mostraré en el siguiente video. Gracias !
At 2:40-3:15, there's a black thing on the end of your Stabila. What is that? (Asking for a friend...)
Ha ha…hey Michael! It’s too bad that I don’t install anymore. Your How Far Out would have been quite useful! Much thanks.
@ramonartful Man, your tutorials are awesome! The informational density and calorie count about makes a woodworker's brain blow up --- hard to digest all the tips in a single viewing. I don't know how you manage the time while still getting the client work done. We're all damn lucky that you do!
@@michael.schuler Thank you tons for the good words!
@@ramonartful Facts, brother.
awesome video and very helpful tips . hopefully i will pick up a 25 year old SCM slider later this week . do you have any dimensions or drawings for the hold down clamps you are using in the video ?
stay safe and best of luck
Thank you. Congrats on the slider …such an amazingly versatile machine!
I added the drawings to the description. Cheers
If the sliding table is above the cast iron table, and the blade is at 90 degrees to the cast iron table, the using the fence on a parallel cut, the cut will never be at 90 degrees. Is that correct?
Yes...you are correct. However, this only applies to cutting narrow strips...like maybe 2 or 3 inches in width. They can tip (literally a few thousandths) and end up out of square. Probably negligible. I may do some tests. So for the most part...a properly tuned slider is an amazing machine! Thanks for watching!
@@ramonartful Thank you for your honesty and promptness. I look forward to watching more of your vids.
Thank you
Truly…thank you
Como puedo saber costo de una maquina como esa. Si la pido desde panamá?
No estoy seguro. En 2017, fue de unos 7000 dólares estadounidenses. No sé si envían a Panamá. Aquí está su sitio web. Gracias
www.felder-group.com/en-us/brand/hammer
Great video! Thanks for the useful info! I’ve been struggling getting used to using a sliding table so this helps.
Em where did you get the large rectangular t-slot nuts for your shop made clamps? Did you buy them from felder or make them yourself?
Great to hear. I’m working on content for another YT vid on sliders…stay tuned for that. Also, check out my improved version of hold down clamps…these work extremely well. And yes, I make the blocks and sell the knurled bolts. Thanks
instagram.com/reel/CifM8rajSjX/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
I really wish I could afford one.
It’s been a good saw…quickly paid for itself!
Thank you so much! Not that much good videos about the slider out there.
Great to hear…I appreciate the feedback!
Interesting, even for a non-slider user….
Okay! Great to hear!
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