Knife Making - Intro to Freehand Grinding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2019
- There is nothing wrong with using a jig to grind your blades but, at some point you may want to grind a blade that cannot be done in a jig. Want to make a nice modern fighter? You're not going to get that smooth distal taper that makes a big, lightning quick blade by grinding it in a jig. One of the biggest hurdles in knife making is learning how to do clean freehand grinding. In this video, I share some tips to set you on the path of grinding freedom.
Note: I shot a section on grinding in distal taper but, the video was getting too long. I will address it in a future video as its' own topic. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I've been knife making for a couple years now using Jerry Moen's jig, and getting good results, but I'm ready to move towards freehand. Thanks for the great video describing your method!
Nice to see someone who actually has the skill instead of using some jig or special rest for a change.
Great video, I have been making knives for 5 years now, and have watched countless videos on grinding. There is more info in this video then any other I have watched! thanks, and keep up the good work!
Not exactly sure what is so messed up with the TH-cam algorithm 😂 I pretty much only have kniemaker content liked, subscribed and searched for, and yet I only came across your channel today by fluke searching ‘knife maker shop tours,’...wish I had come across you sooner. Excellent content👊👍
Bob, this was a really well done video. I picked up several tips and really dig the push stick. Thank you for sharing. I would like to see how you set up to grind your false edges or clips.
Thanks,
Justin
Great info for a newbie like me. Thank you!!!
Thanks, man. Miss your videos.
You’re doing a great job with the videos! I appreciate your efforts to teach others. Keep em coming!
Thanks
This is great. Thank you. I will definitely be using this video as a reference, saving for my future endeavors on becoming a better knife maker.
Great video, thank you. Came at just the right time for me i am transitioning from files to grinder 👍👍👍
Great Video! I free hand and am under the 50 blade mark, rough ground approx 20 blades and finished 13 of them, definitely going to make the block and try it out!
Keep at it. They'll just keep getting better.
Great video, I'm new at this and I got a lot of good info from this video,great job!
Thx Bob, great video... Good for experienced knife makers as well!! Takeaways for me... The 2" tool rest, and especially the notched push block!! One of those "DOHHH" moments... Maybe no more calloused "push thumbs" anymore!! Thx again!!
It's always helpful to see other knife makers processes. I learn from other makers all the time!
A very good video and how to on grinding. I see there is 1 thumbs down vote - WHY??? Great video for sure. Thank you for taking the time to make video. I have learned some things for sure.
Very good video Bob
Thanks!
Really love these videos sir! This is one of the best videos I've seen on freehand grinding for sure, and thanks for the demo on making the push stick! I've come to a few questions in my mind while watching. 1.) What grit would you have stopped at if this was not mild steel pre-HT? 2.) What size wheel is that? I'm curious to get me a while and maybe start some hollow grinding! 3.) Have you used your push stick without the work rest on full flat grinds? 4.) Could you give some more flavor on nailing your plunge symmetry? Do you roll those gator belts off the side of the platen a little or do you rely on the geometry of the gator belt edge to make the plunges? (I ask b/c I've had issues getting symmetrical plunges with gator belts 😅). Thanks again for this video!!
Glad you are finding the videos to be helpful! In answer to your first question, I usually heat treat my blades first, before doing any bevel grinding. There are exceptions to this; for example, when I'm making a blade from W2 that will have a hamon or if I am working more in an ABS style knife. In either of those cases I go to a clean 220 grit finish. The wheel I used in this video is a 14" but, you can hollow grind with pretty much any size. I have done full flat grinds without the rest but, I think beginners should start out using the rest. I do not run my belts over the edge to create the plunge. I run them right to the edge and I carefully sculpt a mildly sweeping plunge on most of my knives. Keeping the plunges even and symmetrical is one of the hardest skills to learn and it will take many knives before you start to be happy with them.
@@rangermadeknives Thank you very much for the info here! I'm just now getting comfortable with FFGing freehand. I'm using a J-Flex belt over hung to get my plunges in there and it's been working fairly well. I've never tried grinding the whole bevel post HT before... I probably need to do that! I generally work with 1084 so that I can HT in my forge. I need a bigger wheel I think... Mine is 4''! LOL Thank you so much for the information you've shared.
Hell yea that is all i do. That is what maker in sc. do.
Great videos great work. Idont make vids but i run an open shop andwill show anyone what i do. I have been grinding for 40 years.
what is the grinder are you using,very nice video THANK YOU W.Smith
Why do you grind them hardened? Doesnt it take much longer and worn out the belts more quickly? Thanks for the great video!
5:00 it all makes sense now. Grind in the dark. Who needs to see what they are doing? Just close your eyes. LOL
Great video, I been using a jig to grind folder blades, this video has renewed my desire to master freehand. Thanks for sharing.
What were the calculations you did with the calculator, understand how you found centre but then you did a further calculation?
I found center and then subtracted a few thousandths from it to give my edge thickness. sometimes I scribe two lines and sometimes only one.
Great video, nice and clearly explained, why are you using a push stick and not using your fingers to push ? Thanks for sharing.
There are times, when the blade starts getting fairly thin, that you can burn your fingers very quickly. In that moment when the brain registers that the fingers are burning, there is a reflex to pull away and it is an uncontrolled movement. That movement will mess up your grind. That is the main reason I use a push stick. Glad you liked the video.
@@rangermadeknives Thanks for your answer, are you not afraid to overheat the blade that way ?
I've ruined a couple blades by overheating them. They were hollow grinds that were thinner behind the cutting edge. Good lesson learned. I do grind most of my blades hardened so I'm very careful not to overheat them. Dip frequently!
Not sure if you'll get a question on a 9 month old video but are you holding the blade fully against the plate from spine to edge and just varying the pressure in different spots? Or at an angle?
All the time that is all i know how to do.
Excellent. So, what diameter is that wheel? And what duro? Thanks, Bob!
Thanks Dave, it's a 14" wheel at 70 duro
Cool. Thanks Bob!
I having most of my issues with my plunge line management , radius of the plunge ,with the curve at the top of the plunge get a squared bump to it :( love to see some tips around this area of grinding
I can do that!