Great video. Aside from being a great tutorial, it makes it clear how to easily check to see if a knife is a flat saber grind. I got some knives and was thinking they may be hollow grind, but checking the tip, from the spine view, makes it it easy to see if it is flat or concave (hollow). Great video!
Those are some damn good tips. I'm not a knife maker but occasionally it happens. This is why I need a vfd, my grinder is just too slow. Works great just takes forever at 1800 RPM. It would literally have taking me two hours to grind those bevels. Maybe that's why I hate grinding so much
I bought a 2x36 "Multitool attachment"....It goes on any bench grinder and Now I have it on my craftsman but am looking for a variable speed craftsman bench grinder as I find them at pawn shops etc....The multitool mounts on left so platen faces you unlike the demo you can see online..The tracking is amazing for plunge lines and was $230 ....Multitool.com or tricktools.com or Multitool has shop on ebay..Support is top....Switching belts fast and can also set it up to slack grind or use the wheel ....Amy position can be set in 30seconds...Wish I got one years ago.,...They make a pedistal where it turns entire unit 90' degrees for a work rest but I free hand and do not need..I'll never spend 3k on a Bader 2x72 with these on the market...Sure would be nice,but truly not needed..Aussie company patented them..Like ACDC,leave it to the Aussies...lol...
great video. tough video because you really made it look easy and it puts a bit of a false sense of confidence in me, but we'll get there. Any reason why you're holding the knife upside down vs. sharp edge down? i'd think with sharp edge down you're able to gauge how far the spine is off the belt to keep angles consistent but i also don't know what i'm doing!
More important than your grind height is your edge width, without looking at the edge it's far easier to overgrind your blade. You also then have nothing to support the blade with, here I have my finger under the spine to stop the belt from ripping the knife from my grasp, you couldn't do that edge down. Finally control, it is easier to control pressure etc when grinding edge up. Thanks for watching, and thanks for your question
@@SamTownsBladesmith awesome. excellent explanation. i guess by marking out the centerline and working to be evenly grinding towards that will inevitably keep the angles consistent as long as the blade is flat.
Can I ask Sam? why don't you like full hollow grinds? Do you perform more chopping tasks with your knives? I started collecting Union Cutlery,Rogers,Henckels old woodcraft knives in my youth,so always loved the full hollow.. Now I still find them easier to keep sharp yet I get an axe to baton camp wood. I know everyone has their own preference and utility needs ,and would enjoy your take on the subject.
Hollow grinds are fine for certain tasks. I prefer the geometry I can achieve from a full flat with minor convex, just as easily sharpened, but flow through a cut the full width of the blade a little better. The other reason I prefer full flats or flat sabres is because they're easier to maintain long term, and a far easier to get a good jand finish on than a hollow, which pretty much requires machine finishing.
Hello Sam, thanks for the instructions. Would I go about this technique in the same way if it was a curved blade? Such as the name suggests saber grind. Or would I need to adapt it in some way?
Yep, precisely the same. The term "sabre grind" in this instance refers to the height of the grind, not the curvature, bit it can be used on straight and curved blades. Thanks for watching!
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow I can’t believe how fast that belt chews the steel! Nice video man
Thanks for sharing Sam!
No worries, thanks for watching!
Sam, thank you for excellent instruction. I will now start out using my non dominant hand.
Wow, you make it look so easy
2days ago i blew thru a .125 blank i knew i should have taken off the ceramic belt , oh well a learning process , peace fella's much love thx sam
Ceramics are fine, it's just the grit size! Cheers mate
Great video. Aside from being a great tutorial, it makes it clear how to easily check to see if a knife is a flat saber grind. I got some knives and was thinking they may be hollow grind, but checking the tip, from the spine view, makes it it easy to see if it is flat or concave (hollow). Great video!
Great... I need a proper grinder!! And a pair of steady hands... 😅Cheers Sam.
🤣🤣 no worries mate
Thanks Thor! Awesome tutorial!
Great instructional video, I very much appreciated the video
Those are some damn good tips. I'm not a knife maker but occasionally it happens. This is why I need a vfd, my grinder is just too slow. Works great just takes forever at 1800 RPM. It would literally have taking me two hours to grind those bevels. Maybe that's why I hate grinding so much
Man! Thanks for the video! :)
Watching you smash that out makes me so sad haha can't wait to buy a big grinder, my 4x36 takes soooo much longer!
I bought a 2x36 "Multitool attachment"....It goes on any bench grinder and Now I have it on my craftsman but am looking for a variable speed craftsman bench grinder as I find them at pawn shops etc....The multitool mounts on left so platen faces you unlike the demo you can see online..The tracking is amazing for plunge lines and was $230 ....Multitool.com or tricktools.com or Multitool has shop on ebay..Support is top....Switching belts fast and can also set it up to slack grind or use the wheel ....Amy position can be set in 30seconds...Wish I got one years ago.,...They make a pedistal where it turns entire unit 90' degrees for a work rest but I free hand and do not need..I'll never spend 3k on a Bader 2x72 with these on the market...Sure would be nice,but truly not needed..Aussie company patented them..Like ACDC,leave it to the Aussies...lol...
Great demo & tips - Thank You!!!!
Thanks for the great tutorial Sam.
Great tutorial, Sam. I'm going to use this video for my students 👍
Excellent!
Brua, you make it look so easy! I just need to get some cheep steel and keep practicing!
Get after it mate!
I'm new to knife making and now I know why I'm having such a hard time with bevels. I've been using 1/8 "
Great video-thanks
Thanks Sam, good video, have you done a detailed video on heat treat?
I have an entire play list on my channel on heat treat 😁
This is great
Please tell me if you never did the last part would that pass as a scandi grind?
Hope you get back
Thanks
Great video Sam! Very informative! Looks like your belt runs dead straight, where mine has a wobble :s
Yeah, that sometimes has to do with the crowning on the wheels, or the belt tension not being high enough. The other possibility is bad belts haha
Very nice work sir.
Very helpful explanation, thank you
Great video. Informative as always 👏
Thanks mate
That’s a great grind perfect video
great video. tough video because you really made it look easy and it puts a bit of a false sense of confidence in me, but we'll get there. Any reason why you're holding the knife upside down vs. sharp edge down? i'd think with sharp edge down you're able to gauge how far the spine is off the belt to keep angles consistent but i also don't know what i'm doing!
More important than your grind height is your edge width, without looking at the edge it's far easier to overgrind your blade. You also then have nothing to support the blade with, here I have my finger under the spine to stop the belt from ripping the knife from my grasp, you couldn't do that edge down. Finally control, it is easier to control pressure etc when grinding edge up. Thanks for watching, and thanks for your question
@@SamTownsBladesmith awesome. excellent explanation. i guess by marking out the centerline and working to be evenly grinding towards that will inevitably keep the angles consistent as long as the blade is flat.
Can I ask Sam? why don't you like full hollow grinds? Do you perform more chopping tasks with your knives?
I started collecting Union Cutlery,Rogers,Henckels old woodcraft knives in my youth,so always loved the full hollow..
Now I still find them easier to keep sharp yet I get an axe to baton camp wood.
I know everyone has their own preference and utility needs ,and would enjoy your take on the subject.
Hollow grinds are fine for certain tasks. I prefer the geometry I can achieve from a full flat with minor convex, just as easily sharpened, but flow through a cut the full width of the blade a little better. The other reason I prefer full flats or flat sabres is because they're easier to maintain long term, and a far easier to get a good jand finish on than a hollow, which pretty much requires machine finishing.
@@SamTownsBladesmith Enjoying your channel...
What's the belt grinder being used here? And what brand belts ate recommend?
Awesome!
thank you
Hello Sam, thanks for the instructions. Would I go about this technique in the same way if it was a curved blade? Such as the name suggests saber grind. Or would I need to adapt it in some way?
Yep, precisely the same. The term "sabre grind" in this instance refers to the height of the grind, not the curvature, bit it can be used on straight and curved blades. Thanks for watching!
Man as soon as that steel hit the grinder it just disappeared
What’s the budget device you can get for the grinding tapes and profiling the blade?
hello newbie here, if i were doing this grind with a jig do i need to adjust the angle or would it stay the same?
I'm not sure which angle you're referring to, but if you mean the same angle as you would for a full flat grind then no, it would need to be steeper
I need a belt grinder... ha ha
Haha yes you do
And me
how did you choose where to mark sides?
Realistically the height of the grind is arbitrary, but for sabre grinds I like a 2/3 grind height of the total blade width.
@@SamTownsBladesmith Thank you for answer, wish you all the best to you and your mates!
DeD