Thanks for your info on the battery. I just assembled my bike and didn't realize how huge it was until I got the tires on it... I want to return it so that I can down size it
I am so close to buying one of these Totguard bikes. I ended up buying a 20" fat tire to be more universal foe the family. This version of the Totguard was too large for my wife and little intimidating to my son. But now I just might want a second ebike and this is the one that has my full attention.
This is funny, in that I bought a 20” midrive lectric to replace this bike, because I wanted something smaller, with dual batteries. Guess what? The lectric is collecting dust, while I’m riding my Monster Totguard all the time. Get it, but upgraded the brakes, you won’t regret it!
Thank you. I previewed my bike on here but didn’t know how to do that. Can’t really remember if the instructions showed me how but obviously i didn’t get it.
That would require extensive electrical know-how, the ability to likely read Mandarin or Chinese, and have the ability program the motor/power controller. Your best bet to make this super fast, is to buy an aftermarket mid drive motor and battery and install it to augment your hub motor set up. The mid drive motors replace the front crank and sprocket by being installed in front crank housing. They power your front gear, and use the magic of mechanical gearing of you back gear (cassette) to make you go much faster than a hub motor, and in the low gears, have much more torque than a hub motor. To add a mid drive motor to an existing bike costs around $1,000 give or take a few hundred, and includes the motor, crank arms, pedal torque sensor, electronic speed/motor controller, throttle, and a battery of your choosing. So you basically have an existing hub motor bike with an additional motor in your front crank area and an extra battery strapped to your frame somewhere, and two throttle‘s on your handlebars, one for your hub motor and one for the mid drive motor. You won’t be able to double the speed with both motors being used in tandem, but you will get the performance of a mid drive motor when you’re using it (which outperforms hub motors), and you’d gain additional range when that battery is dead by using the hub motor system that was originally on the bike. Biggest plus of this would be that you would basically double the range of your bike by having to independence propulsion systems. However, you’re basically doubling the cost of your bike by adding a mid drive aftermarket motor, batt, and system hardware.
@@fatheadmv5055 the cost isnt the issue for me, its just finding the parts to do it. I MIGHT have someone but he lives in LA but ill reqch out to him and see what he can do about it
Not true. Once you open the bike’s battery compartment by folding it in half, push the ignition key in, and completely turn it counter-clockwise (just like turning off a car to remove the key). That motion will retract the retention pin on the battery so that the battery can be removed. Note: you don’t have to remove the battery to charge it…but you can if you want. Be careful that when you turn the key to retract the security pin, that the battery could fall out. So be prepared to catch it to prevent impact damage from impacts to the floor. Good luck.
Ty I spent 3 hrs trying to remove battery 🎉
Thanks for your info on the battery. I just assembled my bike and didn't realize how huge it was until I got the tires on it... I want to return it so that I can down size it
Thanks for sharing this; very informative/enlightening!!
I am so close to buying one of these Totguard bikes.
I ended up buying a 20" fat tire to be more universal foe the family. This version of the Totguard was too large for my wife and little intimidating to my son. But now I just might want a second ebike and this is the one that has my full attention.
This is funny, in that I bought a 20” midrive lectric to replace this bike, because I wanted something smaller, with dual batteries.
Guess what? The lectric is collecting dust, while I’m riding my Monster Totguard all the time.
Get it, but upgraded the brakes, you won’t regret it!
@@RMTStudios how is it holding up now?? how many miles??
@@CerealFapist. Great! Just about to hit 2000 miles
@@RMTStudios awesome! did you find a backup battery?
@@CerealFapist yes, and I’ve upgraded the brakes and front crank
Thank you. I previewed my bike on here but didn’t know how to do that. Can’t really remember if the instructions showed me how but obviously i didn’t get it.
Thanks bro
This bike is tough! I just got one last week.
Nice review
Can I apply wd40 around the battery to make it easier for its removal?
hey there!! Where did you get the fenders?...I need as I don't want to get sprayed during wet weather.
I just ordered one how much does the package weigh
I can't get mine to go charger is green I did what you did in this video and nothing I am so frustrated!
did you figure it out?
Could i add in a second battery? Or make it faster?
That would require extensive electrical know-how, the ability to likely read Mandarin or Chinese, and have the ability program the motor/power controller.
Your best bet to make this super fast, is to buy an aftermarket mid drive motor and battery and install it to augment your hub motor set up. The mid drive motors replace the front crank and sprocket by being installed in front crank housing. They power your front gear, and use the magic of mechanical gearing of you back gear (cassette) to make you go much faster than a hub motor, and in the low gears, have much more torque than a hub motor. To add a mid drive motor to an existing bike costs around $1,000 give or take a few hundred, and includes the motor, crank arms, pedal torque sensor, electronic speed/motor controller, throttle, and a battery of your choosing.
So you basically have an existing hub motor bike with an additional motor in your front crank area and an extra battery strapped to your frame somewhere, and two throttle‘s on your handlebars, one for your hub motor and one for the mid drive motor. You won’t be able to double the speed with both motors being used in tandem, but you will get the performance of a mid drive motor when you’re using it (which outperforms hub motors), and you’d gain additional range when that battery is dead by using the hub motor system that was originally on the bike. Biggest plus of this would be that you would basically double the range of your bike by having to independence propulsion systems.
However, you’re basically doubling the cost of your bike by adding a mid drive aftermarket motor, batt, and system hardware.
@@fatheadmv5055 the cost isnt the issue for me, its just finding the parts to do it. I MIGHT have someone but he lives in LA but ill reqch out to him and see what he can do about it
@@fatheadmv5055 thank you
My cousin could do it.Its gonna be rigged up,but he will get it going.
Any chance you know where I can find a replacement battery I cannot find one anywhere that ik for sure it’s the right one?
Not able to get my battery out, it looks like it’s made not to be removed
Not true. Once you open the bike’s battery compartment by folding it in half, push the ignition key in, and completely turn it counter-clockwise (just like turning off a car to remove the key). That motion will retract the retention pin on the battery so that the battery can be removed.
Note: you don’t have to remove the battery to charge it…but you can if you want.
Be careful that when you turn the key to retract the security pin, that the battery could fall out. So be prepared to catch it to prevent impact damage from impacts to the floor. Good luck.