We will be wrapping our current 5x5 posts with either cedar or hardieboard. Do your kits work with wraps or do they require a solid wood post to hold the tensioners correctly? If they do work with wraps, what is the thickness that you recommend? Thank you!
Yes, they absolutely work with wraps! The size of tensioner you'll need will depend on the overall thickness of the wrap. Usually, the XL will work as long as the wrap isn't super thick. If you go to our website and search "Cable Rail Tensioner Kit for Wood Posts," you can find an illustration that shows how the different lengths of each tensioner size. The main thing you want is for at least 75% of the threading to be engaged in the wood post itself, and not the wrap (ideally, 100% of it should be engaged).
Great Video! How does your Bullet System account for seasonal expansion and contraction of the steel wires? I have a log railing system with wires and winters (-20) summers (100F), so there is quite a bit of fluctuation in tension. I would love to replace the existing system which is impossible to tighten and release (twisting etc), but would even know how to set the initial tension.
Great question! We've not had any complaints about issues with contraction, so as far as we know it hasn't been an issue. Generally, you'll have to do a seasonal cleaning and tensioning going into Spring, but that's standard for anywhere in the country.
I've been researching this stuff for weeks and I find this system to be about the nicest and easiest. My deck is huge, about 1200 sq feet and around 28 wood 4X4 posts. I would not want to terminate a cable run at each post so I'd like to pass through several posts. Some runs will have 45 degree turns and there is one 90 degree turn. I would of course terminate there and start a new run. Can I manage 45 degree turns OK? What can I use on the straight pass throughs to look nice? Just run the cable through a bare hole or do you have a nice grommet that looks like the termination points?
We generally don't recommend passing-through a turn that sharp. It can be done, but it will impact your ability to tension the line correctly. As long as it only turns once, you might be able to get away with it, but I'd only run that a maximum of 16 feet instead of the normal 20 foot runs we allow for. Feel free to give us a call or shoot us an email with any more questions!
Hi Jimmy, thanks for the support! I don't really have a good way of recommending contractors in your area. What I recommend doing is getting an estimate through our website, and then run that by some local contractors to gauge their comfortability with our system. My apologies for the inconvenience!
Hi Chuck, as your deck settles and the weather changes, you'll just have to keep an eye on things and occasionally retighten. It doesn't take much to get a cable back into correct tension. You shouldn't have to loosen the set screws.
Not specifically, but the process would be the same. Aesthetically, it might not be the greatest since the tensioner head won't be flush all around unless you drill deep enough for the edges to sit on the curve. I'd highly recommend giving our support team a call since your project sounds like it's a bit more nuanced than most!
Couple quick questions - Is the installation process the same for between posts on stairs? When rounding a 90 degree turn, would you advise terminating the cable or creating a 45 degree pass through?
Hey Luke, this is a great question! Yes, the installation process is generally the same for managing stairs. The main thing to watch out for is making sure you don't accidentally block yourself from the set screw channel by having it oriented in a bad direction. For 90-degree turns, we recommend cutting the run and starting a new one rather than trying to pass through. Passing through on that strong of an angle really hurts your ability to tension your line. We wouldn't recommend passing through any turn greater than 30 degrees, and even then you wouldn't want to run the full 20' that you would normally be able to go. Feel free to give us a call or email us with any other questions! -Andrew
This cable systems looks very clean. I will be ordering a sample for sure. BTW, in the video the prebuilt frame has stainless pieces on the top of the 4x4 that the top rail sits on. What are they called and can I fin them on the site. Definitely like that look! Nice Video!
Thanks, Michael! The stainless piece you mentioned is the modern top from our Signature series aluminum posts. While the post top isn't specifically designed for wood railing, we used it as a quick way to attach the handrail for this video. We don't currently carry the parts you'd need to install the modern top on wood posts, but we used a threaded insert and 1/4 - 20 socket screw for the mockup in this video. If you'd like to purchase the modern tops individually, give us a call at (574) 742-2737 and we can get an order started for you.
Would a dab of thread locker be a good idea for the set screws? Seems like they might have a tendency to back out and cause the cable to loosen over time. This does seem like a practical way to achieve the desired cable railing look that's so popular. Please include a link for the hand rail mounting hardware. Thank you for spending the time to share your know how!
Hey Michael, great question! You could certainly add some thread-locking fluid to your set screws. We've had a few customers do this with out-of-the-box applications, especially where the railing was part of a mobile structure. In a traditional, stationary application the tension from the cables makes it difficult for the set screw to back out on its own.
Hi Katelyn, are you referring to our spacer bars? --> www.cablebullet.com/products/cable-bullet-cable-spacer-bar Or are you referring to the stainless post top that connects the post to the handrail? If that's the case, we used one of the modern tops that typically goes on our aluminum Signature series posts. We don't currently offer them separately on our website (they're included with the aluminum posts), but if you'd like to purchase them separately, just give us a call at 574-742-2737. In a wood post application you can use them on level runs, but they won't work for any angled stair posts.
Love the clean look vs turnbuckle type. Do you need/recommend posts in between a 16 foot run you mentioned up to 20 foot run? If so do you terminate at each post or pass/drill through the post and only terminate the cable at each end post? Likely using 4' x 4" P.T. lumber for posts but considering 8" x "8 posts also. Thank you in advance for your reply !!
Hey Dave, great questions! Definitely use support posts in between your two end posts for a 16 ft run, both for cable and top rail support. You can pass the cable through those support posts by drilling a 3/16" hole (additional hardware is optional). Typically you'll want to support your top rail every 4-8 feet (depending on your rail design). We definitely recommend a top rail, however, if you're just running cables, please consider that any moderate amount of tension will tend to pull your end posts in at the top. Let us know if you have any other questions!
@@CableBullet Thank you for the SUPER QUICK reply!! I will have top rail so that should reduce the inward pressure that the cables will apply to the end posts.. just glad I can run the cables uninterrupted for the 16 foot span that is AWESOME !! I did see the "Dummy tensioner" offerings on your website after I saw the video. Cheers Dave
@@reikunorthamerica5732 Awesome! Both the dummy tensioners and post hole cover kits are optional add-ons. On straight runs through wood posts, they would be mostly decorative, with little functional value as there's not abrasive tension on the through-holes. Without any intermediate hardware, you will have some discoloration over time due to moisture around the through-holes, and it's a slightly more rustic look. In the end it all comes down to the look you're going for and your budget.
I have a very similar question .. so there is a sort of cover to cover the holes in the pass thru post ? I will limit the sections without tensioner to 18’ or (3) 6’ sections .. there is a stainless steel cover to use them in the pass thru posts ?
Hey Tony, we do have a cable tensioner designed to thread into steel or aluminum posts. Here's the link to the tensioner: www.cablebullet.com/collections/signature-series-railing/products/cable-bullet-cable-rail-kit-for-metal-posts We also have a line of aluminum posts designed to work with our tensioners. If you've got a custom project in mind, just follow the directions for drilling and tapping the cable tensioner holes in your own posts. If you have any specific questions, give us a call! Someone from our project support team can help with any project-specific questions. 574-742-2737
Well I be posting if its as easy as it looks I got the free sample an it seems super simple I placed a order im wondering if it comes with extra set screws there small an you will lose one for sure lol But the samples are nice built there aluminum rails are super thick. But its so so much cleaner then a turn buckel system if your doing cable rails this is best looking I have found. I'm thinking order extra set screws an the drivers to drive it into wood
Hi Larry, your installation kit will come with additional spare parts. You're correct, they do have a tendency to get dropped or lost. Thanks for the positive feedback on the sample! We continue to do our best to design a system that's simple to install, however, there will always be site or project-specific challenges. If you have any issues during the installation, please don't hesitate to reach out. We're always happy to help any way we can!
Hi John, unfortunately, we are not currently set up to ship to the UAE. Your only option would be to work with a US-based freight forwarder. I'm sorry we couldn't be more help.
Hey Allen, generally speaking, redwood is a great option. However, 1-1/2 x 1-1/2-inch posts won't have the necessary strength to hold the tension from the cables without warping (you can use smaller posts for your pass-through support, just not your cable end posts). For strength, we recommend your end posts be at least 4x4-inch posts. If your posts are hardwood, then you can use smaller true 3-inch posts (e.g. ipe or oak). If you have any other questions, give us a call 574-742-2737 - we'd be happy to talk through your project with you!
Hi Paul, that's correct: a single kit (all the parts required to anchor and tension a single cable end) is $11.45! The reason we have them as kits is because we want people to know that they get more than just the tensioner since they're getting the crimp sleeve, lobed washer, and set screw as well. We offer spare packs of those separately if you need or want extras, but we try to make it clear that a complete set are included with every tensioner. Hope that clears things up! Let us know if you have any other questions! -Andrew
Hey Michael, as a father of two young children it's certainly crossed my mind as well! We did some digging early on and the "ladder effect" concern was removed from the International Residential Code early 2000s. The NAHB completed a years-long study that concluded (in part) that children would climb just about anything and that it was nearly impossible and generally undesirable to render any environment completely "safe" from children's climbing. Vertical or horizontal, my wife and I don't allow our kids on the deck without supervision.
Gracias por contactarnos. Las instrucciones y los tutoriales en español son algo que deseamos ofrecer y esperamos hacerlo en algunos meses y el siguiente año.
![เปิดบ้าน นาราเครปกระเทย 1 ไร่ ขายขาดทุนหลัก10ล้าน เอามาใช้หนี้!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jz84VFWVP4/mqdefault.jpg)
We will be wrapping our current 5x5 posts with either cedar or hardieboard. Do your kits work with wraps or do they require a solid wood post to hold the tensioners correctly? If they do work with wraps, what is the thickness that you recommend? Thank you!
Yes, they absolutely work with wraps! The size of tensioner you'll need will depend on the overall thickness of the wrap. Usually, the XL will work as long as the wrap isn't super thick. If you go to our website and search "Cable Rail Tensioner Kit for Wood Posts," you can find an illustration that shows how the different lengths of each tensioner size.
The main thing you want is for at least 75% of the threading to be engaged in the wood post itself, and not the wrap (ideally, 100% of it should be engaged).
Wow, that is extremely DYI friendly.
It is! And if you run into any issues during installation you can always call in and talk to one of our support staff.
Great Video! How does your Bullet System account for seasonal expansion and contraction of the steel wires? I have a log railing system with wires and winters (-20) summers (100F), so there is quite a bit of fluctuation in tension. I would love to replace the existing system which is impossible to tighten and release (twisting etc), but would even know how to set the initial tension.
Great question! We've not had any complaints about issues with contraction, so as far as we know it hasn't been an issue. Generally, you'll have to do a seasonal cleaning and tensioning going into Spring, but that's standard for anywhere in the country.
I've been researching this stuff for weeks and I find this system to be about the nicest and easiest. My deck is huge, about 1200 sq feet and around 28 wood 4X4 posts. I would not want to terminate a cable run at each post so I'd like to pass through several posts. Some runs will have 45 degree turns and there is one 90 degree turn. I would of course terminate there and start a new run. Can I manage 45 degree turns OK? What can I use on the straight pass throughs to look nice? Just run the cable through a bare hole or do you have a nice grommet that looks like the termination points?
We generally don't recommend passing-through a turn that sharp. It can be done, but it will impact your ability to tension the line correctly. As long as it only turns once, you might be able to get away with it, but I'd only run that a maximum of 16 feet instead of the normal 20 foot runs we allow for. Feel free to give us a call or shoot us an email with any more questions!
En español
Hi Andrew, what is the approx going rate to have this installed, we are in georgia .. love your products
Hi Jimmy, thanks for the support! I don't really have a good way of recommending contractors in your area. What I recommend doing is getting an estimate through our website, and then run that by some local contractors to gauge their comfortability with our system. My apologies for the inconvenience!
When installed outdoors, do you have to loosen the set screws for winter and tighten in summer? Or will it maintain constantly straight all year long?
Hi Chuck, as your deck settles and the weather changes, you'll just have to keep an eye on things and occasionally retighten. It doesn't take much to get a cable back into correct tension. You shouldn't have to loosen the set screws.
Great video presentation.
Thanks for the kind words, Jim!
Do you also have another video showing how to install in round logs (Doug FIr)
Not specifically, but the process would be the same. Aesthetically, it might not be the greatest since the tensioner head won't be flush all around unless you drill deep enough for the edges to sit on the curve. I'd highly recommend giving our support team a call since your project sounds like it's a bit more nuanced than most!
How did you install the rail to post round stock?
Couple quick questions - Is the installation process the same for between posts on stairs? When rounding a 90 degree turn, would you advise terminating the cable or creating a 45 degree pass through?
Hey Luke, this is a great question! Yes, the installation process is generally the same for managing stairs. The main thing to watch out for is making sure you don't accidentally block yourself from the set screw channel by having it oriented in a bad direction.
For 90-degree turns, we recommend cutting the run and starting a new one rather than trying to pass through. Passing through on that strong of an angle really hurts your ability to tension your line. We wouldn't recommend passing through any turn greater than 30 degrees, and even then you wouldn't want to run the full 20' that you would normally be able to go.
Feel free to give us a call or email us with any other questions!
-Andrew
This cable systems looks very clean. I will be ordering a sample for sure. BTW, in the video the prebuilt frame has stainless pieces on the top of the 4x4 that the top rail sits on. What are they called and can I fin them on the site. Definitely like that look! Nice Video!
Thanks, Michael! The stainless piece you mentioned is the modern top from our Signature series aluminum posts. While the post top isn't specifically designed for wood railing, we used it as a quick way to attach the handrail for this video. We don't currently carry the parts you'd need to install the modern top on wood posts, but we used a threaded insert and 1/4 - 20 socket screw for the mockup in this video. If you'd like to purchase the modern tops individually, give us a call at (574) 742-2737 and we can get an order started for you.
Would a dab of thread locker be a good idea for the set screws? Seems like they might have a tendency to back out and cause the cable to loosen over time. This does seem like a practical way to achieve the desired cable railing look that's so popular. Please include a link for the hand rail mounting hardware. Thank you for spending the time to share your know how!
Hey Michael, great question! You could certainly add some thread-locking fluid to your set screws. We've had a few customers do this with out-of-the-box applications, especially where the railing was part of a mobile structure. In a traditional, stationary application the tension from the cables makes it difficult for the set screw to back out on its own.
What part is the spacer between the posts and handrail? Do you sell these? Thanks!
Hi Katelyn, are you referring to our spacer bars? --> www.cablebullet.com/products/cable-bullet-cable-spacer-bar
Or are you referring to the stainless post top that connects the post to the handrail? If that's the case, we used one of the modern tops that typically goes on our aluminum Signature series posts. We don't currently offer them separately on our website (they're included with the aluminum posts), but if you'd like to purchase them separately, just give us a call at 574-742-2737. In a wood post application you can use them on level runs, but they won't work for any angled stair posts.
Love the clean look vs turnbuckle type. Do you need/recommend posts in between a 16 foot run you mentioned up to 20 foot run? If so do you terminate at each post or pass/drill through the post and only terminate the cable at each end post? Likely using 4' x 4" P.T. lumber for posts but considering 8" x "8 posts also. Thank you in advance for your reply !!
Hey Dave, great questions! Definitely use support posts in between your two end posts for a 16 ft run, both for cable and top rail support. You can pass the cable through those support posts by drilling a 3/16" hole (additional hardware is optional). Typically you'll want to support your top rail every 4-8 feet (depending on your rail design). We definitely recommend a top rail, however, if you're just running cables, please consider that any moderate amount of tension will tend to pull your end posts in at the top. Let us know if you have any other questions!
@@CableBullet Thank you for the SUPER QUICK reply!! I will have top rail so that should reduce the inward pressure that the cables will apply to the end posts.. just glad I can run the cables uninterrupted for the 16 foot span that is AWESOME !! I did see the "Dummy tensioner" offerings on your website after I saw the video. Cheers Dave
@@reikunorthamerica5732 Awesome! Both the dummy tensioners and post hole cover kits are optional add-ons. On straight runs through wood posts, they would be mostly decorative, with little functional value as there's not abrasive tension on the through-holes. Without any intermediate hardware, you will have some discoloration over time due to moisture around the through-holes, and it's a slightly more rustic look. In the end it all comes down to the look you're going for and your budget.
I have a very similar question .. so there is a sort of cover to cover the holes in the pass thru post ? I will limit the sections without tensioner to 18’ or (3) 6’ sections .. there is a stainless steel cover to use them in the pass thru posts ?
Do you have a system for steal or aluminum post.
Hey Tony, we do have a cable tensioner designed to thread into steel or aluminum posts. Here's the link to the tensioner: www.cablebullet.com/collections/signature-series-railing/products/cable-bullet-cable-rail-kit-for-metal-posts
We also have a line of aluminum posts designed to work with our tensioners. If you've got a custom project in mind, just follow the directions for drilling and tapping the cable tensioner holes in your own posts. If you have any specific questions, give us a call! Someone from our project support team can help with any project-specific questions. 574-742-2737
@@CableBullet nice.
@@tonytunnell9873 Sure thing, Tony. If you'd like a free sample, give us a call and we'll send you one.
@@CableBullet ok un a few days I'm in the middle of a project.
Well I be posting if its as easy as it looks I got the free sample an it seems super simple I placed a order im wondering if it comes with extra set screws there small an you will lose one for sure lol
But the samples are nice built there aluminum rails are super thick. But its so so much cleaner then a turn buckel system if your doing cable rails this is best looking I have found. I'm thinking order extra set screws an the drivers to drive it into wood
Hi Larry, your installation kit will come with additional spare parts. You're correct, they do have a tendency to get dropped or lost. Thanks for the positive feedback on the sample! We continue to do our best to design a system that's simple to install, however, there will always be site or project-specific challenges. If you have any issues during the installation, please don't hesitate to reach out. We're always happy to help any way we can!
Do you ship to united arab emirates ?
Hi John, unfortunately, we are not currently set up to ship to the UAE. Your only option would be to work with a US-based freight forwarder. I'm sorry we couldn't be more help.
great video! I was thinking about using 1 !/2" x 1 1/2" redwood for posts . would the hardware work ?
Hey Allen, generally speaking, redwood is a great option. However, 1-1/2 x 1-1/2-inch posts won't have the necessary strength to hold the tension from the cables without warping (you can use smaller posts for your pass-through support, just not your cable end posts). For strength, we recommend your end posts be at least 4x4-inch posts. If your posts are hardwood, then you can use smaller true 3-inch posts (e.g. ipe or oak). If you have any other questions, give us a call 574-742-2737 - we'd be happy to talk through your project with you!
Very odd way to price out 'kits' on your site. I'd revise that... Is one post screw $11
Hi Paul, that's correct: a single kit (all the parts required to anchor and tension a single cable end) is $11.45! The reason we have them as kits is because we want people to know that they get more than just the tensioner since they're getting the crimp sleeve, lobed washer, and set screw as well. We offer spare packs of those separately if you need or want extras, but we try to make it clear that a complete set are included with every tensioner. Hope that clears things up! Let us know if you have any other questions!
-Andrew
cool but very expensive.
Thanks for the feedback! Have you gotten an estimate with our team? They can do their best to work within a budget!
People run cables FOR THE INDIVIDUAL LOOK … hey news flash
I love how you can build kids a ladder too climb over as long as they’re 4” apart 😂🤣
Hey Michael, as a father of two young children it's certainly crossed my mind as well! We did some digging early on and the "ladder effect" concern was removed from the International Residential Code early 2000s. The NAHB completed a years-long study that concluded (in part) that children would climb just about anything and that it was nearly impossible and generally undesirable to render any environment completely "safe" from children's climbing. Vertical or horizontal, my wife and I don't allow our kids on the deck without supervision.
A belt applied to the hind end of the kids will fix that issue !
En español porfabor
Gracias por contactarnos. Las instrucciones y los tutoriales en español son algo que deseamos ofrecer y esperamos hacerlo en algunos meses y el siguiente año.
En español