Couple comments - make sure to tighten from the middle cable outward to properly displace the load, and use post protector sleeves on the pass throughs to protect the post holes and gives it a finished look.
The Feeney cable rail system is the best thing going by far! I was looking at Bullet brand (and others) that had individual tensioners at each side of each post and required a brand specific crimp tool. The 40' section of wood railing that I was replacing would have cost $1500-$1800 with Bullet. The Feeney pre-crimped 40' kit at $60/each times the 10 rows plus 90 protector sleeves and 10 end caps was less than $700. This system was so easy to install and looked great. The hardest part getting the holes drilled straight, which was done by an experienced carpenter for us.
Was the 90 protector pieces to insert into the wood so that the cable wouldn’t wear down the wood it’s threaded through? I’ll be looking up Feeney brand thank you.
@@alex1975uk I read a comment here that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did. And should use metal sleeves for all contacts with the posts.
THANK YOU! Before finding this video I watched like 20 about railing and I T had headache of all the talking and got confused I almost give up..This guy is a GENIUS! thanks
Probably drill slightly larger holes half through both directions and then use a small automotive pick with a tiny hook on the end to hook the cable and pull it around the corner
I read a comment here that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did. And should use metal sleeves for all contacts with the posts.
Agree...possibly the main reason many people watch this video was to see how they did the corner. I was disappointed that they completely skipped any discussion on how to do the corner post. I read a comment that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did.
Great video & very informative. I can't seem to find the one way clamps anywhere. Amazon sells the caps for the clamps, just not the clamp. Any link would be greatly appreciated 🙏
The few that I've done have those bushings,and are more adjustable as well. Cable railings aren't inexpensive, I'd rather cross the T's and dot the i's than cut corners. Looking at this makes me think the cables will chaff the posts at every corner.
very helpful! I love your method for creating a bevel on the top of the railing by running it through the table saw at an 8 degree angle. I will definitely try that on ours when we get to the railing!
I can't find the one way clamp (on min 5:30) anywhere. I would love to know the materials you are using! It's so hard to figure out these materials when they different so much based on the seller and I can't find "one way clamp" anywhere. Thank you!
Nice work!! Except you forgot the protector sleeve in the post holes. It’s just so the cables don’t wear out the holes at the pinch points since wood is soft.
Good TOM, the Cable Deck Railing installation is very clear, I require you to tell me the name and specification of the materials, both the cable and its terminals.
Please tell me how you ran the wire at the end of the corner... Did you L shaped inside the wood, drilling halfway into the wood makind 2 holes? I couldn't see that part in the video,
What's not demonstrated here is how the holes were drilled on the outside corner post. How was that done. Diagonally though it? Can't be two holes right angles to one another. That would be impossible to fish the cable through. I have to do one pf these next week and need to know. Also, what brand of SS fasteners and connectors did you use?
I read a comment here that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did. And should use metal sleeves for all contacts with the posts.
One thing to note is that code changes when using cable.(in most regions that is) The spacing drops from 4" down to 3" so that as the cable stretches it doesn't stretch beyond 4 inches. Best to verify code before installing so that you don't have to redo it
@@scott5654 Always check with the local Building Department. In my case, the Building Department is OK as long as the maximum space rule isn't violated. That usually means building-in "safety" against deflection by using 3" spacing of the cables. Tom Silva knows his stuff, so I have to assume he's up on all this, but he might have been a little more detailed here.
Easy, wherever you need to make your holes for the middle of the post, transfer that line to the top of post and connect them from both sides. Then that is the length you drill in for each side. Then just mark your length on the bit with blue tape & drill away!
Tommy has mad knowledge and skills. Table saw to pitch the top railing...dow's and pins vs deck screws on the top plates.. these are small yet great tips.
I read a comment here that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did. And should use metal sleeves for all contacts with the posts.
This would be much more helpful it you said what cable system this is. I haven't seen a one way grommet system like this. looks great would love to buy it.
My thoughts as well. Im getting ready to install a cable rail system for a client and would like to use the same product he was using. I suppose with a little research I can find it. Would be nice if it was listed in video info though.
amazing video one thing I would do differently is to, here at 4:30, to give it a little more cable so you could work with it outside the post, bending it to your direction. after that, just pull from the other side a quick question: how much pressure is too much pressure? It is a lot of horizontal pressure (10 cables)?
I have a deck with this exact design of cables and it needs refinished. I just checked my cables and they did something a bit different. You will want to have a decent amount of the threaded end poking out so that when you need to refinish the deck, it wont be a struggle to reinstall your cables as you will want to remove them to make your job a whole lot easier. The way he installed those cables does not allow for easy maintenance of the deck in the future.
I believe the cable hardware shown here is not re-installable, when Kevin cuts it flush before popping the end cap. I have seen another YT video where they refinish the wood structure around a pre-installed cable railing and they just wrap the wire with masking tape to protect it.
Love the look. Only issue I have is that 4” spacing that code requires doesn’t seem adequate for a non rigid rail system. What happens when a little kid pushes his head through those flexible cables? 4” can easily become 6” or more with a little applied pressure.
I'll tell you what will happen. That little kid will realize that it really hurts to squeeze his noggin thru a 4" cable rail, and will think twice about ever doing it again. Lol.
Until they choke to death. Not to be dramatic, but these systems are dangerous. They not only allow a little one to stick their head through (inattentive parents may not see the child right away) but it also allows children to climb up and over, like a jungle gym playground. The fall would not be nice!
Much attention was paid to details on this job, but I’m very surprised no bushings were used where the cable transits the posts, especially where the cable changes direction. Once tensioned, the cable WILL wear, & elongate the holes, those cedar posts are soft. Bushings are the cheapest part of the job, HAAS sells them for less than $1, Feeny, (used on this job), are 10 for $12. It is not true that the quick connects used here cannot be undone. Feeny sells a tool ($7j, specifically for that purpose, (works much like the gizmo for undoing Sharkbite plumbing fittings), works on all Feeny quick connects.
I learned so much from this video, EXCEPT for the ONE thing I came here hoping to understand... How did you get that cable to make the 90 degree turn on that corner post??? I am anxiously awaiting an answer from ANYONE who can help. Thanks in advance!
@wired4fun I'm going to do my first wire railing this summer. So I don't have any actual experience. That being said, I know there are metal sleeves that are inserted into a slightly larger hole. They are used to dress the hole and protect the wood from being damaged. In that case you would drill the 1/8 hole on a 45 degree angle through your post, then enlarge the same hole to possibly 1/4 inch, but only about 1 inch deep, to allow the insertion of the sleeve. There are sleeves for straight and sleeves for angled drilling. They both sit flush on the surface so it appears that the cable made a turn inside the post. I hope I'm describing this properly. I haven't found the correct brand/items yet, but I know they exist.
@@tiredofit1429 Thanks for the response. I ended up getting a 45 degree angle drill guide from Amazon and using the 45 degree sleeves you were referring to and it worked out GREAT. For whatever it's worth, I ended up using the guide from Muzata and the sleeves are CKE, which I found MUCH better than the other available options. They are good quantity and have held up well to a brutal Michigan winter.
@@straight_to_finish the corner post at 6:17 makes it look like the cable either: A) makes a 90°turn in the wood; Or B) the hole might have been drilled at 45° from the middle of side where cable goes in to the middle of the exit side; Or my guess C) they actually had Norm Abram come work some magic, but couldn't air it
@@straight_to_finish That corner post doesn't have the cable running straight through it. I believe they made at least two holes. But if it is a 1/8 in cable and a 1/4 or even 3/8 hole in that post, it may make it easier to bend inside and come out the side. stop the video at 5:04, then slow the speed and at 5:05, you'll see his hand only moves over to the side, not the opposite side. Then at 5:06, you'll see the corner post from the opposite angle.
I'm surprised the holes through the cedar don't need some kind of metal sleeve, so the metal wire isn't pressing up against the wood. Wonder if that would honestly make a difference?
@@Stolendesign In most jurisdictions in the USA, any mention of the "ladder effect"/climbing hazard (for horizontal balusters) has been removed from the building code. The data indicates that even young children won't climb a railing with horizontal elements, more than they would climb any other type of railing.
@@kenc2257 I am always stunned at the differences in building codes across different countries, same applies to road worthyness of vehicles. a lot of the car stuff you see on you tube from the US is just not possible in NZ and Australia is even more strict. I think NZ has a quite a few more regulations around building codes etc as part of a national health system focus. If we have an accident in NZ we get public healthcare. so the govt legislates a little harder on the front end to limit the exposure to accident and injury risk in the back end. This is across the board in all facets of life.
@@schreckd he means that you need a piece of timber underneath the top rail between the posts to stop them from bending and being drawn in by the tension of the cable. It also a very bug run of cable without tensioners along the run. I think the cables are going to slacken a lot in time.
I’m pretty sure you’re supposed to have the nut tightening end of the cable on the opposite end where it’s more easily accessible. This is so you can tighten the cables in the future if they become loose over time. Also, after you tighten the cables starting from the middle out (not top down as you did), you trim the excess thread from the bolt and install the decorative covers.
@@Wired4Fun that’s why they have decorative covers which look far better than having a threaded bolt with a nut sticking out the way he has it. His job looks sloppy but maybe you’re ok with that.
Love TOH..But they didn't show him drilling all the way through the post with his template and matching it from both sides and meeting in the middle of each post.OR did he drill all the way through from one side?
Classic This Old House, they fail to show you the most difficult parts of the project, which in this case would have been the 90 degree turns in the rail. I guess when you are “experts” it’s easy to assume something as simple as feeding an 1/8” steel cable through a 4x4 at a 90 degree turn is self explanatory.
I watched this about 100 times and finally finished my own project today!!! Thank you! Great project and learned so many new things!
Hope you put a 1x4 under the top rail. Top rail alone insufficient to prevent post movement with tension.
Couple comments - make sure to tighten from the middle cable outward to properly displace the load, and use post protector sleeves on the pass throughs to protect the post holes and gives it a finished look.
B
what material did you use for these post protector holes? cut to length on-site?
The Feeney cable rail system is the best thing going by far! I was looking at Bullet brand (and others) that had individual tensioners at each side of each post and required a brand specific crimp tool. The 40' section of wood railing that I was replacing would have cost $1500-$1800 with Bullet. The Feeney pre-crimped 40' kit at $60/each times the 10 rows plus 90 protector sleeves and 10 end caps was less than $700. This system was so easy to install and looked great. The hardest part getting the holes drilled straight, which was done by an experienced carpenter for us.
Was the 90 protector pieces to insert into the wood so that the cable wouldn’t wear down the wood it’s threaded through? I’ll be looking up Feeney brand thank you.
Can you please share where we can source this style cable, as well as how you fed the wire through a 90 degree corner within the 4x4.
I just asked the same question about the 90 turn!?
I just run a new cable, it's more expensive but I would rather not risk breaking the post
Television's original and best carpenter, plumber, and landscaping contractors. Now, the best on TH-cam for the rest of the world to watch. Thank you.
TOH used “Feeney’s Quick Connect” cable railing system …I zoomed in on one of the end pieces and saw their name stamped on the connector.
Available at Home Depot!
Thanks, I was wondering what brand it is.
Thank you! Huge help to all of us!
Yup zoom in at the 6:52 mark.
Thank you!
How did you do the corners? The one 90 degree corner- how did you get the wire through it? How did you drill for that corner?
That is the question!
@@alex1975uk I read a comment here that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did. And should use metal sleeves for all contacts with the posts.
THANK YOU! Before finding this video I watched like 20 about railing and I T had headache of all the talking and got confused I almost give up..This guy is a GENIUS! thanks
Well the genius didn’t put stainless steel sleeves in the post holes
How did you make the turn/drill the holes to make the 90 degree corner?
I know right? slightly #suss
He just drilled it at a 45 degree angle…
Slightly bend the cable end and feed it through
You guys are one of the only carpenters I trust to learn something new.
Tommy, how did you direct the cable through the posts at the 90 degree corner?
I did not see the answer??
@@jeffsanger7246 they never answered
the magic of television 🙄
Probably drill slightly larger holes half through both directions and then use a small automotive pick with a tiny hook on the end to hook the cable and pull it around the corner
I read a comment here that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did. And should use metal sleeves for all contacts with the posts.
How did you run the cable around the 90 deg post?
I wondered this too.
He drilled at a 45 degree angle…
@@cd3rls that’s what I saw too. Haven’t found any system that recommends that strategy
I wish they had showed how they did the turn at the 90 degree. How did they drill the holes?
Agree...possibly the main reason many people watch this video was to see how they did the corner. I was disappointed that they completely skipped any discussion on how to do the corner post. I read a comment that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did.
Great video & very informative. I can't seem to find the one way clamps anywhere. Amazon sells the caps for the clamps, just not the clamp. Any link would be greatly appreciated 🙏
Did you ever find one way clamps??
Were can I find and order the cable and the hardware for it? Thank you.
It turned out looking really nice. I was thinking some kind of bushings would be nice, though, to finish off the holes drilled in the posts.
I’d like that too
No
The few that I've done have those bushings,and are more adjustable as well. Cable railings aren't inexpensive, I'd rather cross the T's and dot the i's than cut corners. Looking at this makes me think the cables will chaff the posts at every corner.
Where do you buy the wire and kit from? Links??
The product is Cable Rail from Feeney
very helpful! I love your method for creating a bevel on the top of the railing by running it through the table saw at an 8 degree angle. I will definitely try that on ours when we get to the railing!
I can't find the one way clamp (on min 5:30) anywhere. I would love to know the materials you are using! It's so hard to figure out these materials when they different so much based on the seller and I can't find "one way clamp" anywhere. Thank you!
Nice work!! Except you forgot the protector sleeve in the post holes. It’s just so the cables don’t wear out the holes at the pinch points since wood is soft.
Optional
Not optional when you're making multiple turns in the railing like they did with that 45
Good TOM, the Cable Deck Railing installation is very clear, I require you to tell me the name and specification of the materials, both the cable and its terminals.
I believe this is made by VistaView. Really good product.
Where can I fund the hardware you used on the deck, or what is it called? Would love to use it.
id you ever find one way clamps??
Please tell me how you ran the wire at the end of the corner...
Did you L shaped inside the wood, drilling halfway into the wood makind 2 holes? I couldn't see that part in the video,
What's not demonstrated here is how the holes were drilled on the outside corner post. How was that done. Diagonally though it? Can't be two holes right angles to one another. That would be impossible to fish the cable through. I have to do one pf these next week and need to know. Also, what brand of SS fasteners and connectors did you use?
I read a comment here that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did. And should use metal sleeves for all contacts with the posts.
Can you please give us the info on where to get the material?
Where did u get the cable and hardware?
where can i find the one way slide on clamps?
What cable system was used for this project?
Would of liked an answer to Your question. Did You find out?
@@ericwilkens it might be VistaView CableTec.
Could be Feeny.
What is the name of the cable railing kit?
Excellent job , can you please tell me where or how to get the supplies !!!! Thank You
i like the way the cables were installed very straight forward on install you guys make it look so easy thanks
One thing to note is that code changes when using cable.(in most regions that is) The spacing drops from 4" down to 3" so that as the cable stretches it doesn't stretch beyond 4 inches. Best to verify code before installing so that you don't have to redo it
Well, if you’re going to stick to the code, then don’t install railing that climbable.
@@scott5654 Always check with the local Building Department. In my case, the Building Department is OK as long as the maximum space rule isn't violated. That usually means building-in "safety" against deflection by using 3" spacing of the cables. Tom Silva knows his stuff, so I have to assume he's up on all this, but he might have been a little more detailed here.
How did you drill the corner post for the cable to go through at 90 degrees?
drill from both sides and meet in the middle
I was looking to see if anyone caught that
But the wire end seemed to rigid to bend 90 inside that wood post. Not even a sweeping 90. No way that fed thru there. I need to see what they did.
@@drewmanning1025 exactly
how did you drill the post and pull the cable on the 90 degree corner?
He just drilled them at a 45 degree angle from one hole to the other…
I love the frame but unsure about the cables. I suppose you could install safety glass onto that frame. Would it support its weight?
How did they thread the 90 degree turns?
They actually used a drill bit that bends 90° in the hole
Those are great drill bits... A little hard to find
Easy, wherever you need to make your holes for the middle of the post, transfer that line to the top of post and connect them from both sides. Then that is the length you drill in for each side. Then just mark your length on the bit with blue tape & drill away!
@@daveklein2826 They're in the same aisle as the skyhooks my boy scout leader always sent me to find.
@@njwebwiz was Dr. J your Scoutmaster?
Great video! Can you please post a link or list for the cable system?
Tommy has mad knowledge and skills. Table saw to pitch the top railing...dow's and pins vs deck screws on the top plates.. these are small yet great tips.
Actually, @ 02:45 he did use deck screw, the dowel served to plug the screw hole.
Would like to know how you got the cable to run through the 90 degree corner? Great video
Can you link where you purchased the cable system from?
Who makes the cables equipment?
I guess you have to pay them for that info
Check out FEENEY and CABLE BULLET systems. Great look and tensioner system. Make stairs and 90 degrees situations much easier to deal with.
Is there a link somewhere here to the brand of cable/Howe used in this video ?
how did you fix the over hang on the 21 degree cut joint? that would drive me insane
hello , how long can I run that wire with that hardware ?? any link for the hardware ??
This was great! Thank! One question. How was the cable run at the 90 degree turn?
How do you screw a hole in the post that turns the cable through 90 degrees??
I read a comment here that it was prob a 45 degree hole so that the cable can be pushed through but would have been nice to see them explain if that's what they did. And should use metal sleeves for all contacts with the posts.
Anybody know what system Tom used here? (Brand)
This would be much more helpful it you said what cable system this is. I haven't seen a one way grommet system like this. looks great would love to buy it.
My thoughts as well. Im getting ready to install a cable rail system for a client and would like to use the same product he was using. I suppose with a little research I can find it. Would be nice if it was listed in video info though.
I'm in the same exact boat. These guys are one of the only carpenters I trust to watch, to learn something I've never done.
@@gar949ever find out what it is ?
@@gar949 I believe I found it .
@@jaredmasonn5701 What is it? Thank you!
amazing video
one thing I would do differently is to, here at 4:30, to give it a little more cable so you could work with it outside the post, bending it to your direction.
after that, just pull from the other side
a quick question: how much pressure is too much pressure? It is a lot of horizontal pressure (10 cables)?
I have a deck with this exact design of cables and it needs refinished. I just checked my cables and they did something a bit different. You will want to have a decent amount of the threaded end poking out so that when you need to refinish the deck, it wont be a struggle to reinstall your cables as you will want to remove them to make your job a whole lot easier. The way he installed those cables does not allow for easy maintenance of the deck in the future.
I believe the cable hardware shown here is not re-installable, when Kevin cuts it flush before popping the end cap.
I have seen another YT video where they refinish the wood structure around a pre-installed cable railing and they just wrap the wire with masking tape to protect it.
So what is the name of this cable railing product? I'm interested in this and like this design.
Where do you find the specialized hardware for your stainless steel wire ailing system?
Nice design to keep the view of that sweet backyard.
What cable system is this?
Love the look.
Only issue I have is that 4” spacing that code requires doesn’t seem adequate for a non rigid rail system. What happens when a little kid pushes his head through those flexible cables? 4” can easily become 6” or more with a little applied pressure.
They tightened them significantly, they’re not really flexible anymore
@@riffdex Since they did the whole cable run with a single tensioner, I can assure you these have some give
They are flexible
I'll tell you what will happen. That little kid will realize that it really hurts to squeeze his noggin thru a 4" cable rail, and will think twice about ever doing it again. Lol.
Until they choke to death. Not to be dramatic, but these systems are dangerous. They not only allow a little one to stick their head through (inattentive parents may not see the child right away) but it also allows children to climb up and over, like a jungle gym playground. The fall would not be nice!
how did you get the cable through the 90 degree turn? can't see it in the video
I love it, looks great!
Much attention was paid to details on this job, but I’m very surprised no bushings were used where the cable transits the posts, especially where the cable changes direction.
Once tensioned, the cable WILL wear, & elongate the holes, those cedar posts are soft.
Bushings are the cheapest part of the job, HAAS sells them for less than $1, Feeny, (used on this job), are 10 for $12.
It is not true that the quick connects used here cannot be undone. Feeny sells a tool ($7j, specifically for that purpose, (works much like the gizmo for undoing Sharkbite plumbing fittings), works on all Feeny quick connects.
They also make angled bushings for going down stairs.
It looks very stable and nicely.
Who makes the one way clamps? They are awesome - where can you get this product?
I learned so much from this video, EXCEPT for the ONE thing I came here hoping to understand... How did you get that cable to make the 90 degree turn on that corner post??? I am anxiously awaiting an answer from ANYONE who can help. Thanks in advance!
@wired4fun I'm going to do my first wire railing this summer. So I don't have any actual experience. That being said, I know there are metal sleeves that are inserted into a slightly larger hole. They are used to dress the hole and protect the wood from being damaged. In that case you would drill the 1/8 hole on a 45 degree angle through your post, then enlarge the same hole to possibly 1/4 inch, but only about 1 inch deep, to allow the insertion of the sleeve. There are sleeves for straight and sleeves for angled drilling. They both sit flush on the surface so it appears that the cable made a turn inside the post. I hope I'm describing this properly. I haven't found the correct brand/items yet, but I know they exist.
@@tiredofit1429 Thanks for the response. I ended up getting a 45 degree angle drill guide from Amazon and using the 45 degree sleeves you were referring to and it worked out GREAT. For whatever it's worth, I ended up using the guide from Muzata and the sleeves are CKE, which I found MUCH better than the other available options. They are good quantity and have held up well to a brutal Michigan winter.
Could you please provide the link to purchase the same hardware?
What brand of cable connectors are these?
Big fan, watched almost all episodes. So far.
How about adding a a gate? And how did he attach the posts to the deck surface? - trying to see if this is some thing I can take on myself.
Could you PLEASE tell us the brand of wire you used?? I have never seen the wire pre attached! That is a game changer!
I think someone zoomed it and said it is a Feeney Cable Rail system...they have them at Home Depot.
Someone please tell me where to buy this system
A wide top rail, sturdy cable system so nobody falls off the deck, AND a dope clothesline!
Such of a beautiful work, where can I buy that type of cable?
Amazon
Where can I purchase this installation kit
what is the manufacturer for this cable? All the other ones I'm seeing aren't as good as this one.
Where do you find this style cable and one way cable locks.
What's a sar? 😊
How were the holes in the corner posts drilled? On center using the template? Just figured it would be difficult to run the cable through a 90° hole.
Holes were drilled straight through and the cables made the turn on the outside of the post; watch it again.
@@straight_to_finish the corner post at 6:17 makes it look like the cable either: A) makes a 90°turn in the wood;
Or
B) the hole might have been drilled at 45° from the middle of side where cable goes in to the middle of the exit side;
Or my guess
C) they actually had Norm Abram come work some magic, but couldn't air it
@@straight_to_finish That corner post doesn't have the cable running straight through it. I believe they made at least two holes. But if it is a 1/8 in cable and a 1/4 or even 3/8 hole in that post, it may make it easier to bend inside and come out the side.
stop the video at 5:04, then slow the speed and at 5:05, you'll see his hand only moves over to the side, not the opposite side. Then at 5:06, you'll see the corner post from the opposite angle.
@@jmackinjersey1 5:10 the cabling is clearly being run through the 90° post.
How did you deal with a 90 degree turn?
I live in Miami, can you tell me where I can buy the accessories to do this job at home, thank you for the video, beautiful work.
Just once I would like to see them do a 20 second pan of the finished product!
Then you would see all of the deficiencies ;)
Can anyone offer advice on table sawing a peak in rail cap board if using a standard deck board as opposed to 2"x6" boards? Are they 'thick' enough?
I'm surprised the holes through the cedar don't need some kind of metal sleeve, so the metal wire isn't pressing up against the wood. Wonder if that would honestly make a difference?
I am sure that if it was needed Tommy would have done it
this type of horizontal baluster is illegal in New Zealand
@@Stolendesign In most jurisdictions in the USA, any mention of the "ladder effect"/climbing hazard (for horizontal balusters) has been removed from the building code. The data indicates that even young children won't climb a railing with horizontal elements, more than they would climb any other type of railing.
@@kenc2257 I am always stunned at the differences in building codes across different countries, same applies to road worthyness of vehicles. a lot of the car stuff you see on you tube from the US is just not possible in NZ and Australia is even more strict. I think NZ has a quite a few more regulations around building codes etc as part of a national health system focus. If we have an accident in NZ we get public healthcare. so the govt legislates a little harder on the front end to limit the exposure to accident and injury risk in the back end. This is across the board in all facets of life.
Probably not required but it would make it look nicer I think.
Where can you find the one way cable and tension ends - and how did you make the 90 degree turn in the post?
Where do we find the answers to these questions?
What's the real name for the "one way clamp"? I can't find anything in any hardware store by that name or description.
Has anyone found the name of a company that makes a railing system that doesn't require crimping? I can't seem to find one out there
How can you purchase this same cable system?
You need a one 4 under the top rail to stop the posts from drawing together, tension wont last just using #9 SS screws
Can u explain this more? I'm trying to figure this cable railing thing out
@@schreckd he means that you need a piece of timber underneath the top rail between the posts to stop them from bending and being drawn in by the tension of the cable. It also a very bug run of cable without tensioners along the run. I think the cables are going to slacken a lot in time.
also a 4x6 90 degree metal bracket under the top rail will work .
this just butters my biscuit
Anyone know the brand of cable rail kit they used ? Doesn't look the the Muzata brand .
.. hi.. What type of cable is it? or what name does that type of cable have?
Nice looking rails n deck.
I’m pretty sure you’re supposed to have the nut tightening end of the cable on the opposite end where it’s more easily accessible. This is so you can tighten the cables in the future if they become loose over time. Also, after you tighten the cables starting from the middle out (not top down as you did), you trim the excess thread from the bolt and install the decorative covers.
Wouldn't look as clean. I like where they hid the spot for tightening it...
@@Wired4Fun that’s why they have decorative covers which look far better than having a threaded bolt with a nut sticking out the way he has it. His job looks sloppy but maybe you’re ok with that.
What is the name of this product, what brand is it?
What’s the hardware manufacturer? I like that set up. Much easier than crimping with other hardware.
were can i get those clamps?
How do they know everything that’s on my to-do list?
The weather looks like it is perfect….
What is the cable system in this video?
Can you post a link for hardware used for railings, please?
Looks nice and reasonably easy to install.
I did a quick look on google and a kit from home depot looks like they carry the one used
Nice, thank you
What cable system was used in this project? We are getting ready to start our own and would like to have more info on the particulars.
I'd like to know it too.
@@Nase2012CA shhhhh its apparently a secret
Crazy question but think I could use 1/4” solid copper wire for the same effect, and be compliant with code?
Copper is probably too soft
Love TOH..But they didn't show him drilling all the way through the post with his template and matching it from both sides and meeting in the middle of each post.OR did he drill all the way through from one side?
What brand of cable system did you use?
Classic This Old House, they fail to show you the most difficult parts of the project, which in this case would have been the 90 degree turns in the rail. I guess when you are “experts” it’s easy to assume something as simple as feeding an 1/8” steel cable through a 4x4 at a 90 degree turn is self explanatory.
You just twist the cable while pushing it through and it should walk itself around the corner.
Two posts on each corner = problem eliminated. Did a railing like this around the patio outside and I’m happy with it
Anyone know what cable system they used?
I’ve heard Feeny.
Like that it does not obstruct the view
Thats the biggest reason people use it