Currently just started square-1 and I feel like I am improving fast because in a weeks time I’ve gotten down to 30 seconds trying to learn cs algorithms and co eo cp and ep algorithms and execute them as fast as possible. Thank you for making this video because it gives me more of an idea to aim for
@@GeorgeCubes123 look over solves and spot weaknesses in your solves and clean those parts up. Then pick up the sub-10 tutorial (this video) and go full on into the end zone. You got this!!
Hey, I have a tournament on basically 1 month, I was sub-10 a couple years ago, in 2018 got my NR single of 9.37 but the nerves made me always mess up the average, there was a point that my average at home was 7.xx and my average in a tournament was 15.xx+ so that discouraged me and stoped cubing for a while, now I want to return in preparation for that competition, ¿Do you think is possible to achieve a sub-10 avg on that tournament if I put all the effort? Right now I am between on learning CSP or the EP with parity, which one do you think is more achievable in 1 month?
Yes, sub-10 is possible! If you put in full effort and practice a lot, perfecting CSP is doable in a month but is quite difficult. I wouldn't learn parity EP algs, but rather have efficient solutions to each case (and of course turn fast). Good luck! Don't put too much pressure on yourself or else you will get nervous, compete for fun!
how to reduce lockups?I can't even turning smooth in slow-turning,my accuracy of turning is terrible(idk why but my clock average is around 4.5 sec but still bad in accuracy of turning a squan)
While learning CSP, I noticed that if I have the mirror of a pair, L, or line case I have to invert the parity. For example, I traced odd of a line case, but since it's a mirror I have to do the even alg. Is this really the case or am I just tripping?
Yes this is correct, this is because for the L/Line/Pair cases you have an odd number of corners per layer while all other cases have an even number. So by doing a z2 and counting again you get the inverted result of what you’ve counted before because you will not be counting the same corners for white/yellow (or black) to see if you have an odd or even number of them. What I do for the L/Line/Pair cases is just start with an inverted count if the L/Line/Pair is on top so I can follow the same “logic” of how the case is solved.
I am currently sub30, and I don't understand how to improve( I know advanced cs, co, cp, eo, do ep intuitively, my square-1 is volt v2 full magnetic) On what should I focus?
Hard to say without video, this video might be helpful th-cam.com/video/NntMyPePQAs/w-d-xo.html or even this th-cam.com/video/SgExl9B-tMg/w-d-xo.html&. You seem to have the right method, so work more probably on turning fast and not pausing as much/recognizing faster. Hope that helps!
If you are using cale, I have a trick. I look at the first two colors. When they are opposite, I forget about the second one. When they are adjacent, I think the color I need for parity, and then see if the third one is the one I needed. This way, I never need to go back to the colors I traced. I' give some examples: 1 red, 2 orange (I forget orange, only remember red) 3 green (red-green, parity) 1 blue, 2 red (as they don't give parity, I need to eliminate the first, I need green for parity) 3 orange (not green, not parity, I'm not going to check anything else) 1 orange, 2 blue (they would give parity. I need to "eliminate" the second one, I need green for parity), 3 green (is what I needed, parity) Seems strange to explain it here, but I hope it is helpful. With practice, this trick will save you a lot of time, since you have less information in your head and you don't need to check the previous colors
More tips for Cale’s, some are quite advanced. These are things I noticed myself doing that came naturally. I think I am doing even more things but cannot think of them. I know it’s got quite lengthy, hope it’s still understandable :D Maybe someone should do a video for all these tricks, would be much easier to explain. For all the examples I use yellow top, white bottom, red front: 1. The point that Alex brought up is great and I also use it. It is like an extension of what Helmer Ewert came up with (see his video titled “One Simple Trick To Make CSP WAY Easier! (Cale's method)”) that most likely comes naturally to must cubers if you use Helmer’s trick with the colors to trace. Highly recommend to do that 2. Learn the parity count positions for all shapes squanmate.cuber.pro/#/count-positions. I think I know them all but don’t use them for all shapes; just for some. E.g. for Barrel, Fists and all the shapes for the star cases I use them a lot. Try some things out and some of them will come naturally. For the Fists I may start with an inverted count if the slice is to the side of the pair. And obviously Kite I just start anywhere as Kite has only one count position. Will lose you more time in the beginning because you have to think more where you can count but it should quickly become quite normal to count this way and become faster when you can start counting at more pieces and don’t have to “rotate” the layers in your head. 3. For the step where you count if you have an odd or even number of white/yellow/black edges/corners at certain you sometimes can skip looking at the second layer. If you have all 4 white (or whatever color you are looking at) corners or edges on one layer there is no need to look at the other layer. The result will always be even. So if you have something ridiculous like an all white layer after scrambling (happened a few times for me now) you can skip 2 of the 6 steps to trace parity. 4. Reduce times that you have to turn the puzzle (not only the z2 but also the little tilting to see the back of the top layer). 4.1 “Look ahead“ during the color counting and have a look at the third color before looking at the second. Example scramble (4,0)/(-1,5)/(-5,-2)/(6,-3)/(5,-4)/(3,0)/(4,-5)/(2,-4)/(-5,-5)/(0,-1)/(-3,0)/(5,-2)/(-2,0)/(-5,-4)/(0,-4)/(0,-2) for Muffin/Left Fist. With yellow top white bottom I get orange, red, green for the first 3 yellow edges that I need to look at. I start counting to the right of the slice and go clockwise. So when peeking at the back to see the yellow orange edge I can already have a look at the 3rd yellow edgepiece, the green one. Then I look at the second edge, the yellow red one and mentally make the orange, red, green order in my head to deduct if it is even or odd (it’s even in this case). This saves me one tilt by going, orange in the back > tilt > see red in front > tilt > green in back. The way I do this specific case is by seeing orange, green and then thinking what color the second edge piece needs to be to have an odd result. Also kind of goes in the direction of the first tip from Alex. In this specific case you might also get the scramble with the yellow red in front and this is the first thing you see and this becomes unnecessary, just wanted the example to help bring over my point. 4.2 For the 2 steps where you look at the colors for the first 3 pieces: Sometimes it is easier to not look at the first 3 pieces but the last 3. Example scramble (1,-3)/(-4,-1)/(0,-3)/(3,0)/(4,-2)/(5,-1)/(6,-3)/(-3,-3)/(-2,0)/(0,-3)/(-1,0)/(0,-2)/ Left Fist/Right Pawn. Also using tip #2 here, I just start at the slice position for the Fist. I can see that the only result I can get from the top layer is for the white edges and their color order. So I know it will involve a lot of z2. Normally I do white edge colors and then immediately yellow edges or vice versa to easier keep track which of the 6 steps I’ve already done. However, what you can do here is do the white edges (blue, orange, red => odd), then e.g. white corner colors; blue, red > z2 > green (odd for the white corners) and then instead of going back up again with a z2 have a look at the yellow edges. red, blue, green; would be even if these would be the first three edges. However, since we left out the first yellow edge (orange) on the top layer we just invert the result and we get odd as result (the normal order orange, red, blue is also odd). IIRC this does not work if you have all 4 edges or corners of the same color on the same layer. Have not really looked into this though, just noticed that it does not always work if e.g. all 4 yellow edges would be on the same layer. You might also look at the first two white corners (like I described already) and take the information, that orange is the first yellow edge with you to the bottom instead of looking at the last 3 edges. I find looking at the last 3 edges as described much easier and I need to keep less information in my head. 4.3 Additionally for 4.2. When you are still looking at the bottom layer, take some information back up again before doing a z2. Now you’ve done white edges, white corners and yellow edges. Maybe have a look at the third white (green) or yellow (blue) corner before doing the z2. Keep the information in your head, look at the first two corners and then bring them mentally in the correct order. Doing this will save you like 2 z2 in this scramble. 4.4 My examples here were for edges. They obviously also apply to corners. 5. Learn the positions of the first, third, fifth and seventh edge/corner for all shapes. This will also come naturally but you can obviously force yourself to learn it earlier. This way you don’t have to mentally count in your head every time again for each different scramble which pieces you need to look at. A bit more difficult to combine with #2 but still doable.
@@CubeMasterYT it is really helpful I also just ordered the mgc under your recommendation I also tried to start learning csp But I'm finding it a bit tricky
@@CubeMasterYT I will keep working on it No , I understand the concept I actually understood it surprising fast I'm just finding it hard to do the tracing it's self Especially when it's not from the original angle
Do you recommend the yuxin little magic square 1 cube master because i have it and another thing do the yuxin square 1 has core stripping plz plz plz tell me 🙏
Yuxin Little Magic is a good beginner Square-1, and doesn't have too many breaking or stripping problems! Maybe some quality control issues here and there, but still great for the price and is pretty durable. MGC would probably be better for a more premium feel for a higher price!
@@CubeMasterYT ok this is the last question dont you mind does the yuxin square 1 has a locknut if not can you may be show how to put a locknut in it maybe ?plz
Wanted to but I feel like I would be repeating a lot of stuff from sub 20 and sub 10, but maybe. It'll pretty much be the stuff in the sub 20/10 videos, advanced CS and start CSP
Currently just started square-1 and I feel like I am improving fast because in a weeks time I’ve gotten down to 30 seconds trying to learn cs algorithms and co eo cp and ep algorithms and execute them as fast as possible. Thank you for making this video because it gives me more of an idea to aim for
No problem!
What do you average now?
@@GeorgeCubes123 almost sub-10 thankfully !
@@OEdmondson nice bro! I started squan 6 months ago and i avg 12-13! Im learning 2 alg pbl rn...do you have any tips for sub 10?
@@GeorgeCubes123 look over solves and spot weaknesses in your solves and clean those parts up. Then pick up the sub-10 tutorial (this video) and go full on into the end zone. You got this!!
Just started trying to learn CSP for like the 3rd time, really trying to commit now. This video came at the perfect time
Same here
Same
I suddenly got reccomended this on my yt feed
The main thing I need is full cubeshape and some algs aren't the best and my ep kinda sucks too but u know advanced CO,EO, and CP
Hey Cube Master! You should make a reconstruction of the new wr single
Maybe!
Hey, I have a tournament on basically 1 month, I was sub-10 a couple years ago, in 2018 got my NR single of 9.37 but the nerves made me always mess up the average, there was a point that my average at home was 7.xx and my average in a tournament was 15.xx+ so that discouraged me and stoped cubing for a while, now I want to return in preparation for that competition, ¿Do you think is possible to achieve a sub-10 avg on that tournament if I put all the effort? Right now I am between on learning CSP or the EP with parity, which one do you think is more achievable in 1 month?
Yes, sub-10 is possible! If you put in full effort and practice a lot, perfecting CSP is doable in a month but is quite difficult. I wouldn't learn parity EP algs, but rather have efficient solutions to each case (and of course turn fast). Good luck! Don't put too much pressure on yourself or else you will get nervous, compete for fun!
Can you do a video on how to be sub 15
how to reduce lockups?I can't even turning smooth in slow-turning,my accuracy of turning is terrible(idk why but my clock average is around 4.5 sec but still bad in accuracy of turning a squan)
While learning CSP, I noticed that if I have the mirror of a pair, L, or line case I have to invert the parity. For example, I traced odd of a line case, but since it's a mirror I have to do the even alg. Is this really the case or am I just tripping?
Yes this is correct, this is because for the L/Line/Pair cases you have an odd number of corners per layer while all other cases have an even number. So by doing a z2 and counting again you get the inverted result of what you’ve counted before because you will not be counting the same corners for white/yellow (or black) to see if you have an odd or even number of them. What I do for the L/Line/Pair cases is just start with an inverted count if the L/Line/Pair is on top so I can follow the same “logic” of how the case is solved.
thanks for this, learning Csp rn i’ll watch out for that
Cube master how to avoid lock ups?
If you figure it out, teach me please!
In all seriousness don't really know, turning accurately comes with time, and magnets might help.
@@CubeMasterYT Another question I had was I average around 13 in Sqaure 1 so should I start learning csp or wait for my average drop a bit.
I would learn it as soon as you can!
isn't the GAN square-1 better than the MGC?
💀
There isnt a Gan Sq-1, yet
@@UTKDesign i know. Sam has been joking about the gan square-1 since April fools.
@@OxzowachiAlt 💀
@@JudeStradtner Yeah I saw that one, if I didnt see the comments about april fools I would definitely have fallen for that video
Hey cube master, awesome tutorial, it's really helpful. Btw, can I get some info on how to contact you?
Email in bio, think it's cubemasterofficial@gmail.com
Hey, i just git my hands on a yj mgc square one and i can do like a U5 on one side. Anyone know if thats normal or how to fix it?
I'm not familiar with the mgc but generally you could either tighten the screw tension, or add some more lube/heavier lube
I am currently sub30, and I don't understand how to improve( I know advanced cs, co, cp, eo, do ep intuitively, my square-1 is volt v2 full magnetic) On what should I focus?
Hard to say without video, this video might be helpful th-cam.com/video/NntMyPePQAs/w-d-xo.html or even this th-cam.com/video/SgExl9B-tMg/w-d-xo.html&. You seem to have the right method, so work more probably on turning fast and not pausing as much/recognizing faster. Hope that helps!
@@CubeMasterYT oh, wow, thank u for the answer! I'll try:)
hey i have just started learning csp, does anyone have any tips on how to trace for parity quicker plz.
great vid btw
If you are using cale, I have a trick.
I look at the first two colors. When they are opposite, I forget about the second one. When they are adjacent, I think the color I need for parity, and then see if the third one is the one I needed. This way, I never need to go back to the colors I traced.
I' give some examples:
1 red, 2 orange (I forget orange, only remember red) 3 green (red-green, parity)
1 blue, 2 red (as they don't give parity, I need to eliminate the first, I need green for parity) 3 orange (not green, not parity, I'm not going to check anything else)
1 orange, 2 blue (they would give parity. I need to "eliminate" the second one, I need green for parity), 3 green (is what I needed, parity)
Seems strange to explain it here, but I hope it is helpful. With practice, this trick will save you a lot of time, since you have less information in your head and you don't need to check the previous colors
@@alexsoriano2865 thanks for the help
More tips for Cale’s, some are quite advanced. These are things I noticed myself doing that came naturally. I think I am doing even more things but cannot think of them. I know it’s got quite lengthy, hope it’s still understandable :D Maybe someone should do a video for all these tricks, would be much easier to explain. For all the examples I use yellow top, white bottom, red front:
1. The point that Alex brought up is great and I also use it. It is like an extension of what Helmer Ewert came up with (see his video titled “One Simple Trick To Make CSP WAY Easier! (Cale's method)”) that most likely comes naturally to must cubers if you use Helmer’s trick with the colors to trace. Highly recommend to do that
2. Learn the parity count positions for all shapes squanmate.cuber.pro/#/count-positions. I think I know them all but don’t use them for all shapes; just for some. E.g. for Barrel, Fists and all the shapes for the star cases I use them a lot. Try some things out and some of them will come naturally. For the Fists I may start with an inverted count if the slice is to the side of the pair. And obviously Kite I just start anywhere as Kite has only one count position. Will lose you more time in the beginning because you have to think more where you can count but it should quickly become quite normal to count this way and become faster when you can start counting at more pieces and don’t have to “rotate” the layers in your head.
3. For the step where you count if you have an odd or even number of white/yellow/black edges/corners at certain you sometimes can skip looking at the second layer. If you have all 4 white (or whatever color you are looking at) corners or edges on one layer there is no need to look at the other layer. The result will always be even. So if you have something ridiculous like an all white layer after scrambling (happened a few times for me now) you can skip 2 of the 6 steps to trace parity.
4. Reduce times that you have to turn the puzzle (not only the z2 but also the little tilting to see the back of the top layer).
4.1 “Look ahead“ during the color counting and have a look at the third color before looking at the second. Example scramble (4,0)/(-1,5)/(-5,-2)/(6,-3)/(5,-4)/(3,0)/(4,-5)/(2,-4)/(-5,-5)/(0,-1)/(-3,0)/(5,-2)/(-2,0)/(-5,-4)/(0,-4)/(0,-2) for Muffin/Left Fist. With yellow top white bottom I get orange, red, green for the first 3 yellow edges that I need to look at. I start counting to the right of the slice and go clockwise. So when peeking at the back to see the yellow orange edge I can already have a look at the 3rd yellow edgepiece, the green one. Then I look at the second edge, the yellow red one and mentally make the orange, red, green order in my head to deduct if it is even or odd (it’s even in this case). This saves me one tilt by going, orange in the back > tilt > see red in front > tilt > green in back. The way I do this specific case is by seeing orange, green and then thinking what color the second edge piece needs to be to have an odd result. Also kind of goes in the direction of the first tip from Alex. In this specific case you might also get the scramble with the yellow red in front and this is the first thing you see and this becomes unnecessary, just wanted the example to help bring over my point.
4.2 For the 2 steps where you look at the colors for the first 3 pieces: Sometimes it is easier to not look at the first 3 pieces but the last 3. Example scramble (1,-3)/(-4,-1)/(0,-3)/(3,0)/(4,-2)/(5,-1)/(6,-3)/(-3,-3)/(-2,0)/(0,-3)/(-1,0)/(0,-2)/ Left Fist/Right Pawn. Also using tip #2 here, I just start at the slice position for the Fist. I can see that the only result I can get from the top layer is for the white edges and their color order. So I know it will involve a lot of z2. Normally I do white edge colors and then immediately yellow edges or vice versa to easier keep track which of the 6 steps I’ve already done. However, what you can do here is do the white edges (blue, orange, red => odd), then e.g. white corner colors; blue, red > z2 > green (odd for the white corners) and then instead of going back up again with a z2 have a look at the yellow edges. red, blue, green; would be even if these would be the first three edges. However, since we left out the first yellow edge (orange) on the top layer we just invert the result and we get odd as result (the normal order orange, red, blue is also odd). IIRC this does not work if you have all 4 edges or corners of the same color on the same layer. Have not really looked into this though, just noticed that it does not always work if e.g. all 4 yellow edges would be on the same layer. You might also look at the first two white corners (like I described already) and take the information, that orange is the first yellow edge with you to the bottom instead of looking at the last 3 edges. I find looking at the last 3 edges as described much easier and I need to keep less information in my head.
4.3 Additionally for 4.2. When you are still looking at the bottom layer, take some information back up again before doing a z2. Now you’ve done white edges, white corners and yellow edges. Maybe have a look at the third white (green) or yellow (blue) corner before doing the z2. Keep the information in your head, look at the first two corners and then bring them mentally in the correct order. Doing this will save you like 2 z2 in this scramble.
4.4 My examples here were for edges. They obviously also apply to corners.
5. Learn the positions of the first, third, fifth and seventh edge/corner for all shapes. This will also come naturally but you can obviously force yourself to learn it earlier. This way you don’t have to mentally count in your head every time again for each different scramble which pieces you need to look at. A bit more difficult to combine with #2 but still doable.
@@bugybunny1 thanks for this
vandenbergh vs lin - You think which is better ? And can you make a video vandenbergh vs lin ???? PLS
vandenbergh
bro
I was literally gonna request for you to make this video
Awesome! I got requests for years to make this, so hopefully it's helpful :)
@@CubeMasterYT it is really helpful
I also just ordered the mgc under your recommendation
I also tried to start learning csp
But I'm finding it a bit tricky
@@osmanbadroodin3215 Keep working on CSP! At first it is a difficult concept to understand, but one you get it, learning cases comes very quickly!
@@CubeMasterYT I will keep working on it
No , I understand the concept
I actually understood it surprising fast
I'm just finding it hard to do the tracing it's self
Especially when it's not from the original angle
Do you recommend the yuxin little magic square 1 cube master because i have it and another thing do the yuxin square 1 has core stripping plz plz plz tell me 🙏
Yuxin Little Magic is a good beginner Square-1, and doesn't have too many breaking or stripping problems! Maybe some quality control issues here and there, but still great for the price and is pretty durable. MGC would probably be better for a more premium feel for a higher price!
So you do recommend it right
@@sampasaha9375 Yep!
@@CubeMasterYT ok this is the last question dont you mind does the yuxin square 1 has a locknut if not can you may be show how to put a locknut in it maybe ?plz
@@sampasaha9375 It should already have one, and there is no need for replacements :)
How to do full Cubeshape
Learn full CSP
@@CubeMasterYT i mean the VIDEO SUGGESTION LOL
@@JamesonJamestackSwickthe man also has a video on cubeshape
Pls make video how to be sub 15!
Wanted to but I feel like I would be repeating a lot of stuff from sub 20 and sub 10, but maybe. It'll pretty much be the stuff in the sub 20/10 videos, advanced CS and start CSP
I’m sorry but when you talk over solves it’s near impossible to hear your voice over the aggressive turning
How to be sub 10: just watch the beginners guide since u have 10 minutes