Thanks, you showed me everything I forgot. I liked your explanation of tighten up at the end. I just started riding again and I needed to get everything in good working order. I'll be able to put this together and take my dog for a run. It's been a couple days and she's been waiting. Thanks
your walkthrough is helping me so much, these kind of builds just dont have manuals, and coming from another American i could understand you perfectly, you have my thanks... GREAT SCOTT
Excellent. I have re-packed all kinds of bearing assemblies before, including bikes, but never a kid's bike coaster hub. Always thought they last until you throw them away (I had a freewheel rear sprocket with Bullseye hubs on a Hutch in the '80s). This was a very good, straightforward instruction, thanks. And I got grease on the iPhone starting and stopping the vid. I like the background music BTW. My son doesn't care (too young), but eventually he will need to learn these kinds of tips. Salud
Nice video, Thank you Marty! If anyone was wondering what the trippy music was that came on while he was packing it it's Synergy by Tash Sultana (from Australia)
Love Tash!! The track on this video was from "Drug Free America - the Dreamtime Remixes - Trip" imported from the UK - hard to find, but it's still out there
I have a older Miami Sun trike but I can't find anyone online who has rebuilt one or a diagram. You video looks pretty good so I'm gonna use it as my guide. I hope it works as I've been building this dam thing for 2 or 3 years now in my spare time (it's a chopper) and if I get it right the old girl will be ready for paint. I'll let you know how it turned out.
My first two kiddie bikes had coaster brakes (year 1960s and 70s) This is the first time I've seen how it is repacked with grease. I'm in the process of building a recumbent bike with coaster brake so I don't have to figure out the cables for the caliper brakes, nor do I have to think about brake lever placement. Thanks, very informative video.
At the shop we are building coaster brake downhill mountain bikes... after the Klunkers that use to race in Marin County back in the day. They are mad fun!
I m doing one right now on my 4 stroke motor kit im building i took it apart and dam I m gonna try that grease though thank you your a savior bro because i was over hear flipping out its not an easy job but im going to try this
Thank you VERY much! Funnily enough, "Red and tacky" is what I was looking at, because my bike guy used a grease that looked red and tacky. Also... I figured any decent bearing grease would do, instead of upsold bike specific greases. ;) EDIT: I might need this because I need to replace a back rim that broke, and the replacement I ordered on Amazon has about a 5% chance of coming without grease. Plus, I should be able to do this for myself if needed.
Hmm. I think by bike wrench I have might be too thick, as I've had trouble adjusting the brakes so they don't catch automatically and pull the pedals along with them/stop early. I think I got it right the last time, or very close to right, but I'll see once I get to take it out. I will probably take it to a local bike shop and see if the guy there can adjust it for me, and give it a once over, and probably clean the pedal assembly on the inside.
the camera shake is real! any way to put it on a tripod i got a headache watching first minute of this. most of your actions are also done off camera all we see are your elbows.
Thx for the video Marty. I need your expertise... I maintenanced and reassembled my coaster brake wheel, but now the pedals turn half a round before the hub engages... What did I do wrong?
You didn't do anything wrong, but the preload needs to be reset again. When tightening the last two nuts, go about 1/8 turn farther than you want with the bearing race preload and make sure the brake actuator (the spiral-shaped piece) is bottomed out as well and then tighten the jam nut and check it - doing so should un-do the 1/8 extra turn on the bearing race and it'll end up just right. It is normal to have some play though, about 1/4 turn of the cog before engagement either way. Some or worse than others.
I'm working on a 26" coaster brake wheel hub for a friend. He says it doesn't brake but, pedals backwards. What would cause this? Could it be something with the brake pads actuator spring? Or could the prongs or tabs are worn down, idk. I'm about to take a look and take it apart soon.
Usually, grease seeps out of the hub, so clean it periodically before rides and when it stops seeping grease or makes noise, it's time to repack it. The brake shoes have grooves in them Make sure they are still there and haven't worn down.
Thanks so much for this. I assembled everything, but when turning the cog, it’s pretty noisy. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing that? The bearings looked fine to me.
Sometimes the brake pads wear out and vibrate, or the bearings pre-load nut is too tight. I've had a hub like that... still ran and stopped fine, just made that noise.
Hi there. I need to replace the axel on the shimano cb-e110 hub with a longer one. Can I remove the axel just by removing the 4 bolts and sliding it out?
Nope - you need to not only take out all the guts inside, you have to disassemble the arm and non-drive side bearing race. Did you just ask this question on a Facebook group I am in? I probably already answered... Anyway, just be sure to use another Coaster-brake Axle as the freewheel axles are threaded slightly differently and the hardware for the coaster brake is incompatible. Or just get a Hi-Stop coaster brake up, they're like $20 and just as good as Shimano with a longer axle
@@MartyUlrich Brilliant advice, thank you. Someone said you can screw in a new axel as you are unscrewing the old one, without any gaps, the internal mechanism should hold together
Nice thank you - this is quite a classic retro style vid, with music in the background gettoblaster settin´the wibe - go f- y- s- moviemaker - thmbs up for this ---> !
I have a brand new bike. Long story short I'm wanting to replace the main axle "bolt". I need to know where I can buy the part. It's for a HD 26" Bikeberry Switz Cruz bike. It's a 3/8" bolt with 24 threads per inch best I can tell. Can you share a source?
If it is for a coaster brake hub, the diameter is a tiny bit smaller than mountain/road bike freewheel hubs and you are right 3/8-24 pitch threads, whereas mtn bikes are metric 10mm (larger and finer threads, often labeled 3/8-26 pitch). I had to do this just yesterday and replace an axle in a coaster brake hub with a longer one so we could mount a child seat. I had to source one from another coaster brake hub I had disassembled for parts. Single axles for coaster brakes are hard to find new as most suppliers only carry fully assembled hubs and they start at about $25 at most shops. However, I can get a generic axle for about $3 plus shipping. I'd just check eBay or Amazon and make sure it is for a coaster brake hub vs. mtn bike.
It's just metal on metal with bikes - it needs grease unlike automotive brake shoes, which are made of a brake compound that cannot contact grease or oil. A nice sticky grease works great on coaster brakes for bikes.
Bearings are clamped too tight. The two outer bearing races should barely be hand tight and move freely, yet without any lateral wobble. Once set, the jam nut should be wedged very tightly against the drive-side bearing race - you'll need a 15mm cone wrench to accomplish this. Even after the jam nut is secured, the bearing should still move freely around the hub but not laterally.
Generic modern kids bike... the old ones on Schwinns and bikes from that era are different. Most modern ones from the last 30 years are like the one in this video.
Sometimes the pads get wedged inside. Take out, re-grease and make sure they are aligned property. Wiggle them in and when done you should feel a nice even glide along the bearing surface when spinning
Found it helpful, as I was afraid to pull the whole assembly out and then found that jamming the brake shoes back in didn't leave it working right. So I'll do it your way. But please consider 1) keeping hands and work in front of the camera, 2) using better lighting, and 3) (as I say about most of these TH-cam videos) omitting the irrelevant music.
Marty's tip regarding "feel" is accurate. If you feel "grinding" with bearings, your cone is too tight. Too loose and you will feel "play".
Came for the diy, stayed for the music and the vibe 😌 🤙
I've done 1 coaster brake..it was a learning experience is all I can say lol.
Thanks dude! Once you get working and talking your way through it, it’s perfect. Much appreciated. 👊🏻👍🏻
I feel totally confident and informed to do this myself now, as a complete noob. Thanks Marty!
Thanks, you showed me everything I forgot. I liked your explanation of tighten up at the end. I just started riding again and I needed to get everything in good working order. I'll be able to put this together and take my dog for a run. It's been a couple days and she's been waiting. Thanks
your walkthrough is helping me so much, these kind of builds just dont have manuals, and coming from another American i could understand you perfectly, you have my thanks... GREAT SCOTT
Thank you for taking the time to pass on your experience and tips. I greatly appreciate it!
Excellent. I have re-packed all kinds of bearing assemblies before, including bikes, but never a kid's bike coaster hub. Always thought they last until you throw them away (I had a freewheel rear sprocket with Bullseye hubs on a Hutch in the '80s). This was a very good, straightforward instruction, thanks. And I got grease on the iPhone starting and stopping the vid. I like the background music BTW. My son doesn't care (too young), but eventually he will need to learn these kinds of tips.
Salud
Really good video. You explain everything and make it look very easy.👍🤝👊
Thank you sir your video helped reassemble my son’s bike.
Nice video, Thank you Marty!
If anyone was wondering what the trippy music was that came on while he was packing it it's Synergy by Tash Sultana (from Australia)
Love Tash!! The track on this video was from "Drug Free America - the Dreamtime Remixes - Trip" imported from the UK - hard to find, but it's still out there
I have a older Miami Sun trike but I can't find anyone online who has rebuilt one or a diagram. You video looks pretty good so I'm gonna use it as my guide. I hope it works as I've been building this dam thing for 2 or 3 years now in my spare time (it's a chopper) and if I get it right the old girl will be ready for paint. I'll let you know how it turned out.
My first two kiddie bikes had coaster brakes (year 1960s and 70s) This is the first time I've seen how it is repacked with grease. I'm in the process of building a recumbent bike with coaster brake so I don't have to figure out the cables for the caliper brakes, nor do I have to think about brake lever placement. Thanks, very informative video.
At the shop we are building coaster brake downhill mountain bikes... after the Klunkers that use to race in Marin County back in the day. They are mad fun!
I m doing one right now on my 4 stroke motor kit im building i took it apart and dam I m gonna try that grease though thank you your a savior bro because i was over hear flipping out its not an easy job but im going to try this
Great video Marty! Thanks for sharing your expertise man!
Thanks man loved it ! I have dun a few myself but it’s always good to watch someone else do it!
Thank you VERY much! Funnily enough, "Red and tacky" is what I was looking at, because my bike guy used a grease that looked red and tacky. Also... I figured any decent bearing grease would do, instead of upsold bike specific greases. ;)
EDIT: I might need this because I need to replace a back rim that broke, and the replacement I ordered on Amazon has about a 5% chance of coming without grease. Plus, I should be able to do this for myself if needed.
Hmm. I think by bike wrench I have might be too thick, as I've had trouble adjusting the brakes so they don't catch automatically and pull the pedals along with them/stop early.
I think I got it right the last time, or very close to right, but I'll see once I get to take it out.
I will probably take it to a local bike shop and see if the guy there can adjust it for me, and give it a once over, and probably clean the pedal assembly on the inside.
@@Lorin-GabrielLeaua-fm1lw I used Red & Tacky Marine Grease.
Super helpful video! Thanks for sharing!
the camera shake is real! any way to put it on a tripod i got a headache watching first minute of this. most of your actions are also done off camera all we see are your elbows.
Thanks for the information buddy really helpful
Wow this is great lesson, try to throw one bike to Africa zambia in particular.
If I had a way to get them over there, I'd give you several!
In the middle of the video this turned into great Asmr
LOL.... Thanks.. I needed this demo. :)
Glad I could help!
Thx for the video Marty. I need your expertise... I maintenanced and reassembled my coaster brake wheel, but now the pedals turn half a round before the hub engages... What did I do wrong?
You didn't do anything wrong, but the preload needs to be reset again. When tightening the last two nuts, go about 1/8 turn farther than you want with the bearing race preload and make sure the brake actuator (the spiral-shaped piece) is bottomed out as well and then tighten the jam nut and check it - doing so should un-do the 1/8 extra turn on the bearing race and it'll end up just right. It is normal to have some play though, about 1/4 turn of the cog before engagement either way. Some or worse than others.
@@MartyUlrich ok, I will try that. Thanks a lot! Best wishes from Copenhagen ;)
I'm working on a 26" coaster brake wheel hub for a friend. He says it doesn't brake but, pedals backwards. What would cause this? Could it be something with the brake pads actuator spring? Or could the prongs or tabs are worn down, idk. I'm about to take a look and take it apart soon.
Sounds like the pads are not installed, or the worm gear is broken.
Regular black automotive grease works well, too. It's what I use.
Yup - I've everything - my fave though is Lucas Oil Red n Tacky
How often should the coaster brake assembly be disassembled/repacked?
Also how are the brake shoes inspected for wear?
Usually, grease seeps out of the hub, so clean it periodically before rides and when it stops seeping grease or makes noise, it's time to repack it. The brake shoes have grooves in them Make sure they are still there and haven't worn down.
Do those brake pads ever need replaced? Can you buy replacement pads?
They do, but a new hub is only $20 and it would take many 1000s of miles to wear the pads out.
Can Cv joint grease use as well?
Yeah it should work.
Thanks so much for this. I assembled everything, but when turning the cog, it’s pretty noisy. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing that? The bearings looked fine to me.
Sometimes the brake pads wear out and vibrate, or the bearings pre-load nut is too tight. I've had a hub like that... still ran and stopped fine, just made that noise.
Loosen the cone a bit
Hi there. I need to replace the axel on the shimano cb-e110 hub with a longer one. Can I remove the axel just by removing the 4 bolts and sliding it out?
Nope - you need to not only take out all the guts inside, you have to disassemble the arm and non-drive side bearing race. Did you just ask this question on a Facebook group I am in? I probably already answered... Anyway, just be sure to use another Coaster-brake Axle as the freewheel axles are threaded slightly differently and the hardware for the coaster brake is incompatible. Or just get a Hi-Stop coaster brake up, they're like $20 and just as good as Shimano with a longer axle
@@MartyUlrich Brilliant advice, thank you. Someone said you can screw in a new axel as you are unscrewing the old one, without any gaps, the internal mechanism should hold together
Nice thank you - this is quite a classic retro style vid, with music in the background gettoblaster settin´the wibe - go f- y- s- moviemaker - thmbs up for this ---> !
I have a brand new bike. Long story short I'm wanting to replace the main axle "bolt". I need to know where I can buy the part.
It's for a HD 26" Bikeberry Switz Cruz bike. It's a 3/8" bolt with 24 threads per inch best I can tell.
Can you share a source?
If it is for a coaster brake hub, the diameter is a tiny bit smaller than mountain/road bike freewheel hubs and you are right 3/8-24 pitch threads, whereas mtn bikes are metric 10mm (larger and finer threads, often labeled 3/8-26 pitch). I had to do this just yesterday and replace an axle in a coaster brake hub with a longer one so we could mount a child seat. I had to source one from another coaster brake hub I had disassembled for parts. Single axles for coaster brakes are hard to find new as most suppliers only carry fully assembled hubs and they start at about $25 at most shops. However, I can get a generic axle for about $3 plus shipping. I'd just check eBay or Amazon and make sure it is for a coaster brake hub vs. mtn bike.
Why do you grease the brake pads ? Wouldn't that make it slip inside the hub.
It's like greasing brake shoes in a drum type truck
It's just metal on metal with bikes - it needs grease unlike automotive brake shoes, which are made of a brake compound that cannot contact grease or oil. A nice sticky grease works great on coaster brakes for bikes.
Great information 👍
I have one but its not moving forward before it does but now its just rotating. Maybe you have any suggestion?
Bearings are clamped too tight. The two outer bearing races should barely be hand tight and move freely, yet without any lateral wobble. Once set, the jam nut should be wedged very tightly against the drive-side bearing race - you'll need a 15mm cone wrench to accomplish this. Even after the jam nut is secured, the bearing should still move freely around the hub but not laterally.
Perhaps mention the brand name. Histop perhaps?
Generic modern kids bike... the old ones on Schwinns and bikes from that era are different. Most modern ones from the last 30 years are like the one in this video.
Great video Thanks
How often do I need to re-pack it?
When all the grease bleeds out. Clean regularly and when grease stops seeping from it on rides, it's time to re-pack - or after a gnarly downhill run!
@@MartyUlrich Ohhhh. Thank you so much! 🍻
Can you use break cleaner
Yes, that works great actually! Long as you reassemble with an ample amount of quality grease!
It seems really fool proof...but I just can't get those brake pads fit in....
I did and I can’t get mine back together
Sometimes the pads get wedged inside. Take out, re-grease and make sure they are aligned property. Wiggle them in and when done you should feel a nice even glide along the bearing surface when spinning
Found it helpful, as I was afraid to pull the whole assembly out and then found that jamming the brake shoes back in didn't leave it working right. So I'll do it your way. But please consider 1) keeping hands and work in front of the camera, 2) using better lighting, and 3) (as I say about most of these TH-cam videos) omitting the irrelevant music.
loose the music
Terrible lighting. Too many shadows to tell what you’re doing.
Your music is effin creepy!