Love the video, I'm from Brazil and I own a 1942 model, when I bought it somebody had painted all over it with a red paint, when I striped the paint the round logo was written Tauco instead of Delta, I got disappointed thinking it was a knockoff, but later I learn it was sold under that brand outside US.
MrPete! Thank you for the love!! I own each one shown here (1,2) and the one of mine you reference (3) and a second one of the same era (4) four in all !! I love the saw. Nothing new in the same class has ever compared to this machine! I tell everyone get a good ol’ used delta. Beats anything new!! 👊🏼🙏🏼✊🏻
Holy mackerel, I only have two. Plus a metal cutting saw. The real old ones are the best, except that the wheel guards are not on hinges.I watch all your videos, I cannot believe how much energy you have. Happy new year.
I enjoyed the history of Delta band saws. I owned a 3 wheel Delta that was for wood/metal used it years. Sold it to a young fellow that was starting to make woodcraft he is still using it today.
A great morning to drink coffee, and watch Tubalcain. Interesting bandsaw video. I am looking for a good older Delta bandsaw to make a metal cutting bandsaw! Looking forward to the followup videos. Praying you keep your vigor for many years to come. At east as long as I keep mine!! LOL
Another informative video. It is amazing how a quality built bandsaw changes over the years. Competition is a wonderful thing when it works, but a disaster when the playing field is out of balance. Thank you and keep these excellent videos coming.
The thing i like most about your videos is i always learn something and anytime someone teaches you something you have been given a gift, thank you Mr. Pete for your gifts. Looking forward to the next video!
Interesting Video! I am from Germany and have one branded Delta Rockwell. On its type plate it says Munich 1972. I did a restorarion on it and it had a weird mix of metric and imperial fasteners. My guess is they imported some parts from the US and assembled it in Munich. Beautiful maschine which speaks quality in every part. Size is perfect for small shops.
Thanks Mr. Pete for putting the Delta 14” vertical bandsaw into your spot light. I have fully restored three for use in my shop (10” from 37, 14” from ‘46, and a 14” W/M from 1950 with the 6” riser). Speaking of blade changing, I always remove the table first...it’s easier and faster than with the table in place...time yourself and see the results ( adjusting the lower guide blades is so easy with no table!). Love your videos.
The information that follows for the different adaptations that you’ll be trying is most valuable to both metal and wood hobbyists even if they don’t turn out to be the best solution for the conversion. But it will give others the information of what to try differently to get to where they want to go with their conversion. Thanks Mr. Pete we’ll be waiting for you to post those videos.
Great history lesson. I agree with you on plastic knobs. Because of "necessity" I converted my 12" Craftsman wood bandsaw to a metal cutting saw using the "jackshaft" approach and it works quite well.. Good stuff, I will be watching..... Fred
I just got a beauty in NC ~ An OLD one with the solid iron cast tube frame for $150. Looking to revamp with best upgrades now. I'll put a couple hundred into it... super stoked to know how old it is and what the history is. Aloha ~ THANKS FOR THIS ~
Hi Tubalcain. I am thinking of getting a Delta/Rockwell bandsaw and came across your video. Just wanted to say it was a really practical and informative video and to thank you. Much appreciated. Will go through more of your videos. Wish you a long and healthy life. Take care.
I have the Delta Wood / Metal version - picked it up cheap at a Gov’t auction for under $350 - it was never used for metal cutting. We also own a larger Laguna bandsaw but it’s the 14” Delta that gets used the most. The Delta 14” is so versatile.
@@mrpete222 Delta used to make a good light for their bandsaw - hard to find a used one - have you found a good work light for bandsaws, drill presses and grinders?
Your videos are always fascinating. Even though I don't own any old hardware more complicated than a screwdriver made in the 80s, your videos are a window to the world where tools were built to last and were well thought over. I wish I was born in the 60s to see them all used and appreciated. Keep up making awesome videos mrpete - these, just like the machines you're showcasing, will never get old! Greetings from Poland.
Mr. Pete, Thank you for all of the great videos over the years, as I thoroughly enjoy them and they have taught me a lot. I am in my mid-40's, and I lost my job during the Housing Market Crash of 2008. I fumbled around with a series of factory jobs for a few years, but I was "spinning my wheels." A few years back, I took a CNC machining course and it was somewhat overwhelming because (embarrassingly) I could barely read a tape measure. Prior to the course, a 1/16" was close enough for what I did. Now I'm "knee deep" in the never-ending learning process concerning machining. Man alive, you have to know as much as a damn doctor or lawyer to be a "good" machinist! Your videos have helped me (and many others) to understand machining principles and I really appreciate it. Much respect, Tom Pate
Good history lesson. And I am with you--sad downgrade going from metal knobs to plastic!! I just purchased the newer one, a 1989 Delta 14", made in the USA. Looks identical to the one in your video. Owner's manual says "Wood Band Saw." No mention of metal cutting ability. Excellent observations. You have a keen eye. 🙏
Yes Sir I did Woodworking professionally for over 20 years and almost any of their tools have cheapened up by going with those crappy plastic knobs that don’t last very long at all most of their products are being built in Taiwan now as i believe they did close that facility you talk about that was inthe South East UnitedStates BTW i loved the old catalogs you used inthe video ! i did my Woodworking but inmy family we do have our fair share of Machinists and Tool and Die Makers so throughout my life i was asked to “help” unload and setup many of those Machines inthe Catalogs and like Jimmy D i put many hours on a old Delta Unisaw that is still set up where i used it last and will probably stay as a backup saw in that shop i expect that it will most likely outlive me at this point as it has always been well cared for and maintained ! my new saw will be a SawStop
Thanks for your video. I have one identical to the one on the left I bought new in 1982 when I worked at a Rockwell Tool dealer. As I recall my price at the time was over $400 with the open stand, mitre gage, and rip fence, without the motor. I picked up a motor from Grainger cheaper than one from Rockwell. It has served me well in almost 40 years and will be the last tool I get rid of! Anxiously awaiting your future videos!
The older wood/metal had a gear shift lever that rotated gears and also three step pulleys. I have one of those and have it dedicated to cutting steel. Then they went to a shaft mounted reduction system not too unlike your pull gear and step pulleys. Others who have tried gear boxes, dc motors, and jack shafts to get to 100 fpm have run into excessive belt slippage on the final drive. Some have made the final drive from the jack shaft a chain drive. If you have the earlier 8" driven pulley saw, you can in deed cut aluminum. I regularly cut aluminum on mine with a 3" drive pulley and 8" driven pulley. The later versions have a 6" driven pulley and run the blade at almost 3000 fpm. I usually add a crank to a piece of 13.5" all thread to make a new blade tensioning rod. I like your bearing idea. While the threaded hole is there for the table stop, the newer ones did not come with the bolt, nut or "cup" that allowed you to set the table stop and still be able to tilt it the opposite direction. Making a few of those would be a good future video.
Thank you,. I have about five videos coming up on the subject. I experienced much failure. And I know exactly what you mean with the belt slippage, that was a major problem. I made the exact crank with threaded rod that you mentioned, and I only did it yesterday, LOL. My neighbor has one of the combination saws. But it is a late model. I eventually it will make a video using it. My saw was very unsatisfactory for cutting steel. Vibrating, shattering, and extremely noisy. Nothing like a real metal cutting saw.
Another great video. I purchased one of these new in the 90's when I was doing a lot of wood working. Now I am getting into machining and fabricating. I am planning on converting mine to do steel also. I am thinking of doing it through pulley ratio's and also moving the motor under the table so it does not get as much dust. No matter how much I clean it, the motor always seems to be an inch deep in saw dust. I will look forward to watching how you do it. Always seem to pick up a good idea or two from your video's.
I have had the older saw like yours, but with the enclosed stand, since new in the early eighties...and the doors are a pain, as you say... I did buy and install Carter ball bearing guides which was a great improvement over Cool Blocks or the original steel {or cast iron} guides...It has been a great saw and I cut aluminum AND brass on it running at the original speed. I also developed a way to sharpen the blade right on the saw many years ago using a chainsaw diamond burr and a Dremel..They cut better than new afterwards..A 93 1/2" blade takes about twenty minutes....As a boy in the machine shop, one of my jobs was silver-soldering bandsaw blades for customers..I have done hundreds of them....Looking forward to your follow-up videos, Lyle...thank you.....
👍👍👍👍 I have an old Rockwell Delta and a Delta I purchased new in 1982. Kicked around changing one to metal only as well. But also have a riser block I'd like to install too.... decisions decisions lol... maybe I'll find a third.
I bought mine in about 1990. It works well. I have cut aluminum with a metal cutting blade but the teeth disappeared as soon as I tried cutting mild steel. I've wanted to convert mine to slow it down but it's low on a long list of projects. Looking forward to watching this series
I have a 14" Rockwell bandsaw that has the steel hinged doors that I bought in early 1980's. I put in on a wood base after the 1989 earthquake in the SF bay area when the stand was bent. I made a new stand out of wood (4x4 verticals and 2x6's horizontals). The stand made the saw rock steady and then found the wheels were badly out of balance (fixed). The saw is smooth and steady now, works great. I also put an old 1hp sleeve bearing electric motor on it, I was given which makes it a great saw.
There are a few modifications and aftermarket products that enhance these saws performance. I have two of these saws of different vintages. 1) I found the webbing in the casting were constantly filled with sawdust, so I filled the open spaces with spray foam. 2) The blade guide height adjustment kept loosening no matter how hard I snugged the knob. I made a lever by bending a bolt at right angles, then cutting off the head and putting on a wooden handle. No more slipping ...3) I added a stronger after market blade tension spring. I got mine from Iturra, but I understand Olsen also offers one now. i don't know if Iturra is still in business, but he offered a wide range of fine products that enhanced the 14" Delta. I see that Delta no longer markets this style saw.
Like your second 14” band saw, on my Delta 14” from - looks like from the serial number, 1964 day 245, the four handles are power coated cast metal. It also has the hinged easy open blade guards. I made another dust collection port with a larger hose port and I also made an easily removable internal shroud to collect most of the dust.
One of the frustrating things about these saws was the use of zinc alloy trunnions. I learned the hard way about grabbing the table to move the saw. The trunions simply crumbled when the table was twisted. Many of the imports are now using cast iron trunnions which is a big improvement.
My Delta bought in the early 90's has "MEXICO" cast into the inner, vertical section of the upper frame. Also, there was a lot of slop in the adjustable, upper blade guide hole which wasn't machined in the upper frame. It appears Delta only used a sand core to make that hole. I eventually got feed up with the sloppy, poor alignment and bored a bigger hole and made a close tolerance sleeve. Now, the blade guide moves up and down spot on and saws perfectly. Thanks for the inspiration mrpete!
My 28-243 14” bandsaw is date coded Oct. 1989 and it says made in the USA. Must have been one of the last years before they moved manufacturing out of the U.S.
Thoroughly enjoyed, a few things to add. I have 4 delta 14's and a jet 14 (delta painted white) The oldest is a 1947 Delta Milwaukee with the open stand, a 1970's 2 speed wood/metal (2 HP) labeled Delta-Rockwell with the tan paint scheme but still with a wood blade guard, one similar to the newer one shown with the closed stand (3/4 HP), and a 1990's with a side mount motor on an open stand (1 HP). The 2 speed has an oil bath gearbox as the lower casting along with step pulleys for further adjustment. The build quality definitely got cheaper during the Delta-Rockwell years. As for the hex remaining on the blade guide on the bottom of the upper guard, my best guess is it is to align the guide blocks with the blade, the jet 14" I have does not have that feature and has to be checked occasionally for inaccuracy. A few years ago I was on the hunt for my first bandsaw and quickly realized there were no quality new ones on the market and turned to the used market (And subsequently acquired multiple)
Looking at the newer band saw blade tensioner at 18:17. Hasn't change much over the years until the one I bought about 15 years old. The knob and mechanism that tensions the belt is the same. What Delta added was a long arm that will quickly un-tension the blade and just as quickly re-tension it to the original tension setting. This prevents damaging the rubber tire on the wheels by leaving the saw fully tensioned all the time. HANDY!
They are called "quick releases". While mine came from the factory, I found several aftermarket and do-it-yourself systems by Googling "delta 14 band saw tension quick release". Could be an interesting new video idea for you.
I have the two speed, it has the hollow frame of cast iron. My friend had an old sears saw with a jackshaft reduction for metal cutting, light diecast frame/ covers combined and it worked fine for him.
I picked up a 14" Beaver Bandsaw this summer from a retired shop teacher that maybe I will convert to metal. The Beaver was built in sometime in the 1950's in Ontario, and that company was also gobbled up by Rockwell.
Very nice video! Now I have a metal cutting Delta, with the gear box, but have only used the saw as direct drive. I will have to get some step pulleys and fill the gear box with oil now and see how much oil it leaks. Haha! Enjoy your videos.
@mrpete222 Mr Pete, good morning, just put a video of the old bandsaw with back gears on my youtube page. Demonstrated the different speeds through the back gear and step pulleys. Thank you!
Great video! I have one of the Chinese knock-offs and have had to make a few improvements. Looking forward to the next videos on band saws for some more improvement ideas.
What kind of improvements did you make? I have a knockoff (probably from china, but it is from the 90's so I have some hope part of it might be US/Canada made). I already know I need an aftermarket fence and replacing the guides with "cool blocks", minor repairs to the machine, and finally a much better base (or lots of metal added to make it heavy/stiff). My problem is i don't want to throw too much money at it, if I do I should just start to look at a modern high quality machine.
Third party (kreg) fence, cool blocks, urethane tires. Mine is 4 speed using a jack shaft. The secondary belt slipped a lot on the jack shaft so I moved it to one step over to get a bigger pulley and more contact. That stopped the slipping, but made the saw a little faster and reduced it to a 3 speed saw. Replacing the chinese belts on both the motor to jack shaft and jack shaft to saw, along with the new tires, made the saw almost vibration free--a problem I had from the beginning. The belts made the biggest difference. I also extended the blade tensioning knob to above the saw so I don't break my knuckles when adjusting. I changed all of hex head bolts on the blade guides to socket head screws so I can adjust with allen wrenches. I spend as much time fiddling with the saw as I do using it, but it is fun trying to improve it.
I would suggest using a 3 phase motor and VFD to change the cutting speed. I sold my Delta wood/metal cutting BS to purchase a much larger BS. I wish I had not sold the 14" Delta, because I do miss being able to slow the speed for metal cutting. So what I am going to do is the above. Yes the motor and VFD can be pricey, but I'll spend the money on something. Why not buy these devices and enjoy it? By the way.............. Great video Mr Pete. We love you. And I am sure 1,000's more do to. You have done so much for us dear person. P.S. You will love that Delta fence because it has a fantastic "vernier" knob. Be surprised how much that comes in handy. Also; that wood/metal 14" Delta BS your brother had; has 6 speeds (using opposing multi-grooved pulleys and a quick switch over knob, from hi speed to lo speed as well), with a chart as to what speed you need for what metal you are going to cut. And it is quite easy to change the speeds. Awesome.
Interesting comparison. I look forward to the next series of videos on the conversion to metal cutting. I have seen another series on the conversion, I think maybe Mustie1. Thanks.
I have 2 home made bandsaws (plans from mathias wandel) i love my wooden framed saw BUT i strayed from plans and in the process of making a metal framed saw with really no knowledge of bandsaws...After this video i already have cobblers remorse LOL I always look forward to new videos from mr pete...
Jackson TN is where Delta relocated to. The plant was off I - 40 I had a Delta band saw that I bought new in 2001 and it was built in Jackson. I am not sure when they moved off shore.. but they became junk when they did.
....Your blade size written on the band saw instantly reminded me of the first thing I did when I bought my old Olson metal saw at an auction, WRITE DOWN the blade size on it with a paint marker! I too would rather see metal instead of cheap arsh plastics on knobs and accessories.But bean counters win for shareholders. About the only place I approve of plastics is in hand tools as long as they stay away from the "junk" plastics because it really reduces the tool weight. ..that all for now, 99 miles away from ND/Boisavain Canadian/International Peace Gardens
I did a pretty good comparison between the present-day Delta 14" bandsaw and the Harbor Freight 14" bandsaw...and found them to be virtually the same machine with the major difference being that the HF machine uses a closed-frame capacitor-start motor with a 4 step pulley system (cast iron pulleys too) for speed changes. I went with the HF saw and haven't been sorry yet. Now the Delta saws have a very new look to them, but this was a few years ago.
I have one of those wood/metal saws from back in the forties. I restored it and put a two speed motor on it, so with the two speed gearbox and the three step pulleys, I’ve got more speeds than I’ll likely ever need. I also made a new rear blade guard, but I used some scrap black walnut. Like that my old saw has zero plastic anywhere in or on it. Mine looks just like the one in that first catalog. Wish I had an original stand tho...
These quality tools that lasted 70 years and still working today where from a time where man didn't need a computer to do is work and to become a creator or a professional woodworker !
Re: bandsaw blade length: Once bought half dozen blades from a small operator who had silver soldered a mess of blades from several coils of Starrett blade. I had to return them because he'd cut them at 92-5/8". Imagine his chagrin!
Good timing! I just inherited one bandsaw similar to these but under a different brand. I wish I had the heavy base! The one I have needs a lot of work to make it stiff and stable. My Dad bought the one I have back in the early 90's so I think these have been copied for some time.
It’s nice that you have both an older and a newer model to compare the two, I have been tying to find a band saw for over a year on Craigs list, but the prices even for run down Chinese made saws is ridiculous.
Mr. Pete, you & I share the very same feelings about manufacturing of USA products. A little more info. on the band saw. Around 2009-10 Delta thought(?) they could have China manufacture that saw. That turned into a huge problem. Parts were not standardized/nor fit one with other. Carter's bearing guides could not fit because the casting interfered. I think that's when Delta decided to sell to Taiwan. Everything, table saws, band saws, drill presses, the trade name Delta, the list goes on. Why did I do the research into this? Simple, I bought a band saw that was manufactured in China by Eskimos in the dark. Yes, I paid $50.00 for it & I knew how to fix those problems. I taught Industrial Arts for 22 years.
I do not recall the manufacturer name of the band saw we have at work but it is a monster of a saw. It has a two speed switch for high or low speed next to the table and I have seen many guys I work with cutting metal on the high speed, to which I just shake my head. The really neat part of this band saw is that on the upright support of the saw is all the necessary stuff to weld and grind a blade together. All the adjustments are there for different widths and thicknesses of blades. There is also a switch for a blower that has a tube next to the blade to clear the work area as you are cutting. The saw is all cast iron and heavy standing about 7 foot tall or so.
@@mrpete222 I took a closer look at it today and found the name plate on the band saw. It is a Tannewitz Di-Saw. The plate says "For continuous sawing, filing and polishing inside and outside" I'm not sure how it does all of that when I only see the saw blade and work table. Perhaps there are other attachments we don't have is our shop. I'm just the electrician/controls guy at work and do not get to use this equipment much.
I have one 50's wood/metal with the gearbox and extra belt for wood. I also have a wood only that has the quick blade change lever. That is a nice feature.
I have a Rockwell branded version but it must be late Rockwell. Wood and metal version, enclosed base and motor like your Delta, sheet metal belt box on the back side like your Delta but the belt cover box has a hinged cover for access to the gearbox shift, 4 belt speeds plus 2 gearbox speeds, hinged wheel guards, cast metal knobs. It has the same part number as the Delta branded version. Lovely saw. The riser kit is still available.
I and others have removed that slow hand wheel at the top for tightening the blade and replaced with a crank with about a 6 inch arm. Much nicer. I think if I can find a faucet type handle I will replace my thumb bolts like you did.
I just got one of the wood/metal saws (28-300); interestingly, the tubular guard for the blade next to the column was wood. I thought it was homemade, but a manual I found for this model notes that it was originally wood.
I wrote my blade lengths on the saws too. Then I still didn’t have ‘em when I went to order blades, so I now keep them in a Notepad file in the machinery folder on the computer. At last, the data is where I need it. I can even keep my favorite blade stock numbers there, the easier to find that they’ll be discontinued next time I want some.
Love the video sir I'll be watching. I've been looking at a wood saw and my plan was to figure out how to convert it so this is just in the nick of time for me. it a Shame the metal one's are so expensive.there is about a $ 300.00 difference between the two of them but are on the same frames .
john suckoe ..... Two distinct companies in the beginning. Delta's 890 bandsaw began in the very early 1930s and were built in Milwaukee. The Walker Turner firm was out of So. Plainfield, NJ and was a competitor. The Rockwell conglomerate bought both companies and did mix & match some machines, but the bandsaws seemed immune from that.... the Delta model stayed in production to the end.
I love my old Delta Milwaukee except, for those miserable blade guards. I got mine for free without a motor from the place where I spent most of my working life. It was on one of those narrow stands and got knocked over and broke the trunnions and support. The maintenance supervisor who gave it to me said, "It's so old you won't be able to get parts for it ." Well, I knew they never changed the design by 1982, when I got it. Two days later, I got the trunnions and was able to braze the support casting back together. I also, got the height attachment. Mine now, has two motors. A regular and a gear motor, another freebie. They are connected to a dpdt switch. Up is the high speed motor and down is the gear motor. The gear motor is on a swinging mount. There are two pulleys on the saw. When I want to cut steel, I swing the gear motor up and slip an extra belt onto it and the other pulley. The high speed motor just goes along for the ride and doesn't mind a bit. Before I made that set-up, I had the saw lined up to my South Bend headstock. I would put a pulley on a short piece of shaft, chucked it up in the lathe and slung a Corvair fan belt, (they're very long), from it to the bandsaw. With the lathe in back gear, it worked perfectly.
That is an ingenious set up with the Lathe. I never would have thought of it. And yes I remember those Corvair fan belts. Every car came with an extra one
I have the gearbox model, not sure the year. Pretty familiar with the non-hinged covers they are a pain. Also odd that all the chips and swarf fall to the bottom of the open base where the motor is mounted. Had to shield it with a piece of cardboard. Odd designs. This is a fun video and will enjoy the series.
They will cut brass, aluminum and copper at those higher "wood" speeds with no ill affects to the "wood" blades. Also, McMaster Carr will provide custom length blades of almost any of their offered blades for metal cutting upon request. Cutting copper and Aluminum at the higher speeds is almost a must ...as well as using the wood blades because the tooth geometry is more positive than the metal blades.
Bronze will be instant death to a Bi-Metal blade, were as 360 brass, copper and aluminum won't phase it! If you have fear, I understand. It is the "Internet"... I know. So, try an old tired blade on some scrap you got layin around, put it in a vid. (Yer da man! THX U!)
Always looking for "the deal", when J.C.Penney dropped the appliance, hardware and auto center departments in 1983, all their tools went on sale. Picked up my Rockwell drill press and table saw that year, which BTW I still use.
Willard F. Rockwell was a gifted engineer/businessman whose contributions to the American industrial fabric ranged from tools (both consumer and industrial) to automotive products used in the production of cars and trucks (he was a long-time Director at Timken) to aviation products and finally contributed to the space age through Rockwell International.
Good information! Thank you for sharing. What would be the reason that back upper wheel assembly (thicker part that house the ball bearing) rubbed against the hinge?
I have the newer one but the on and off power is a toggle switch. In changing thrust bearings, I could not figure out how to get to the bottom one. Your help in accomplishing this is requested. Thanks.
I had to stop the video to give you a thumbs up when you said why don’t they put the size blade these things take on the machine? No kidding , talk about dropping the ball !
Hello, the pulley on the bandsaw wheel (not the motor) works its way off its shaft; the little key that stabilizes the pulley works its way loose, and the pulley comes off. Do I just need a new key? Where would I get one, if you think this is the answer. Thank you.
My biggest gripe about stationary power tools in the US is the SWITCHES. Even the switches like the one you show on on the newer saw which look to be very good quality still are not No-Voltage Release switches. You can tell somebody to unplug the machine as often as you may like, but unless they also remember to check the physical position of the switch, when they plug it back in it may jump up and bite 'em! Instead for an extra few dollars you can install a No-Voltage Release type switch which will save you such an indignity, and perhaps also save you a fingertip or two.
enjoy any video put out by Tubalcain Mr.Pete222 aka Lyle Peterson your videos are the penultimate of You-Tube Machining and allied craftsman type Edutainment
I have a Taiwanese knock off with the wood/metal tag. It only has a 3 step pulley, though perhaps uses a slower motor too. I just moved into the lowest setting and added metal cutting blade. So true on the blade length. I actually copied you and wrote it on my saw with a sharpie. Thank you.
@@mrpete222 Just ran down and took a look. There is a jack shaft. Tricone on the motor to a tricone on the jack, the small pulley on the jack goes to a big one on the drive wheel. The other two can be swapped on the motor, giving two speeds. I have no convenient facility to check the speed, but it is pretty slow. I can go measure them to calculate the speed if you'd like.
I work mostly with metal sheet and would love to have a metal cutting bandsaw, so I am looking forward looking forward to seeing your next video. I have also been contemplating slowing my tablesaw down to cut metal: may apply . Thanks and God willing you will stay spry for many many more years!
Have you ever seen the ones sold under the french brand "Syderic" ? They were built on the Delta frame but very robust for metal cutting, with a 2 speed gearbox, 8 speeds total, closed stand and "one single door" guard ?
I am very interested in seeing how your conversion of these to metal cutting turns out. I have been trying to find a decent metal bandsaw locally, but all I seem to see for sale are wood saws. If your project works out, I think I will do something similar.
Hi Mr Pete: Great Video!!! I only wished you had gone more into the Rip Fence and how it attaches to the table. I own a 16" 3 wheel model made by Pentair co,a division of Delta.I am trying to figure out a way to attach a rip fence as I do not own one and the parts are almost all discontinued for my model 28-560.
Thank you for the information you provided. I will be replacing my strut bearings but when I removed the table from my older14 inch Delta band saw, the bearing underneath was difficult to remove. Please tell me what I need to do to replace the bearing. Will I have to replace the unit where the bearing is attached? Thanking you in advance for your help.
I have the last version of this type bandsaw with the higher hp version but the knobs are made from cast zinc and not plastic which I assume they had changed back to metal.
Mr. Pete, Delta sold to a Chinese company about 5 yrs ago. They still make the Unisaw in the Carolinas. When they sold out, the new company through out all the parts to the US machines. They only support the new Unisaw. A Delta rep told me this at a trade show. The US manufacturers cannot compete with the Chinese for consumer goods. Wilton started building their drill presses in China when they were bought by Jet. Clausing stopped building their 15 inch drill press about 12 years ago. The 20 inch was still made in the states, but I understand it is imported now. It's a shame, but no one wants to spend the money for US made tools.
Whoa, you had me scared there, but according to Clausing's website the drill presses are still made in Cleveland. The parent company is the 600 Group out of London.
Paul, I took a look on their website, and they have returned the manufacture of the 20 inch drill press to the US. They have not built the 15 inch drill press since 2006. I have one from the last run I bought in early 2007.
The copying of the Delta bandsaws were the first tool copied, and opened the flood gates for the Far East. I guess the only good thing is some of the Grizzly parts work just fine.
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...And so funny about the skink knob!! I am honored to have been spiritually inspired by your idea 35 years later!! You are the best!!!
Yes, that faucet knob was the biggest coincidence of the year. Good to hear from you Jimmy. Merry Christmas
Love the video, I'm from Brazil and I own a 1942 model, when I bought it somebody had painted all over it with a red paint, when I striped the paint the round logo was written Tauco instead of Delta, I got disappointed thinking it was a knockoff, but later I learn it was sold under that brand outside US.
I am surprised that they had them in other countries
MrPete! Thank you for the love!! I own each one shown here (1,2) and the one of mine you reference (3) and a second one of the same era (4) four in all !! I love the saw. Nothing new in the same class has ever compared to this machine! I tell everyone get a good ol’ used delta. Beats anything new!! 👊🏼🙏🏼✊🏻
Holy mackerel, I only have two. Plus a metal cutting saw. The real old ones are the best, except that the wheel guards are not on hinges.I watch all your videos, I cannot believe how much energy you have. Happy new year.
Thank you sir happy new year hope to see you in 2019!!
I enjoyed the history of Delta band saws. I owned a 3 wheel Delta that was for wood/metal used it years. Sold it to a young fellow that was starting to make woodcraft he is still using it today.
Thanks
A great morning to drink coffee, and watch Tubalcain. Interesting bandsaw video. I am looking for a good older Delta bandsaw to make a metal cutting bandsaw! Looking forward to the followup videos. Praying you keep your vigor for many years to come. At east as long as I keep mine!! LOL
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Another informative video. It is amazing how a quality built bandsaw changes over the years. Competition is a wonderful thing when it works, but a disaster when the playing field is out of balance. Thank you and keep these excellent videos coming.
Yes thanks
The thing i like most about your videos is i always learn something and anytime someone teaches you something you have been given a gift, thank you Mr. Pete for your gifts. Looking forward to the next video!
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Interesting Video! I am from Germany and have one branded Delta Rockwell. On its type plate it says Munich 1972. I did a restorarion on it and it had a weird mix of metric and imperial fasteners. My guess is they imported some parts from the US and assembled it in Munich. Beautiful maschine which speaks quality in every part. Size is perfect for small shops.
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Thanks Mr. Pete for putting the Delta 14” vertical bandsaw into your spot light. I have fully restored three for use in my shop (10” from 37, 14” from ‘46, and a 14” W/M from 1950 with the 6” riser).
Speaking of blade changing, I always remove the table first...it’s easier and faster than with the table in place...time yourself and see the results ( adjusting the lower guide blades is so easy with no table!). Love your videos.
You are probably right about removing the table
The information that follows for the different adaptations that you’ll be trying is most valuable to both metal and wood hobbyists even if they don’t turn out to be the best solution for the conversion. But it will give others the information of what to try differently to get to where they want to go with their conversion. Thanks Mr. Pete we’ll be waiting for you to post those videos.
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There may not be 150k of us, but we are higher quality?
Watching high quality, educational, and entertaining, videos by a man with a great sense of humor!.....Rimshot! LOL
Great history lesson. I agree with you on plastic knobs. Because of "necessity" I converted my 12" Craftsman wood bandsaw to a metal cutting saw using the "jackshaft" approach and it works quite well.. Good stuff, I will be watching..... Fred
Thanks
I'm looking at the knobs on my Delta, and they look the same, but they are definitely cast metal of some sort.
I just got a beauty in NC ~ An OLD one with the solid iron cast tube frame for $150. Looking to revamp with best upgrades now. I'll put a couple hundred into it... super stoked to know how old it is and what the history is. Aloha ~ THANKS FOR THIS ~
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Hi Tubalcain.
I am thinking of getting a Delta/Rockwell bandsaw and came across your video. Just wanted to say it was a really practical and informative video and to thank you. Much appreciated.
Will go through more of your videos.
Wish you a long and healthy life.
Take care.
Thank you very much, I’m glad you liked it
I have the Delta Wood / Metal version - picked it up cheap at a Gov’t auction for under $350 - it was never used for metal cutting. We also own a larger Laguna bandsaw but it’s the 14” Delta that gets used the most. The Delta 14” is so versatile.
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@@mrpete222 Delta used to make a good light for their bandsaw - hard to find a used one - have you found a good work light for bandsaws, drill presses and grinders?
Your videos are always fascinating. Even though I don't own any old hardware more complicated than a screwdriver made in the 80s, your videos are a window to the world where tools were built to last and were well thought over. I wish I was born in the 60s to see them all used and appreciated. Keep up making awesome videos mrpete - these, just like the machines you're showcasing, will never get old! Greetings from Poland.
Thank you very much, keep watching. I knew many Polish people when I was growing up. The women were always great Cooks.
Great! I have one like the 1958 model you showed. Love it and looking forward to your series. Thanks!
Thanks
Mr. Pete,
Thank you for all of the great videos over the years, as I thoroughly enjoy them and they have taught me a lot. I am in my mid-40's, and I lost my job during the Housing Market Crash of 2008. I fumbled around with a series of factory jobs for a few years, but I was "spinning my wheels." A few years back, I took a CNC machining course and it was somewhat overwhelming because (embarrassingly) I could barely read a tape measure. Prior to the course, a 1/16" was close enough for what I did.
Now I'm "knee deep" in the never-ending learning process concerning machining. Man alive, you have to know as much as a damn doctor or lawyer to be a "good" machinist!
Your videos have helped me (and many others) to understand machining principles and I really appreciate it.
Much respect,
Tom Pate
Thank you for your comment. Yes, it is a difficult trade where the machinist never gets any credit. Keep at it, you can master it.
Good history lesson. And I am with you--sad downgrade going from metal knobs to plastic!! I just purchased the newer one, a 1989 Delta 14", made in the USA. Looks identical to the one in your video. Owner's manual says "Wood Band Saw." No mention of metal cutting ability. Excellent observations. You have a keen eye. 🙏
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Yes Sir I did Woodworking professionally for over 20 years and almost any of their tools have cheapened up by going with those crappy plastic knobs that don’t last very long at all most of their products are being built in Taiwan now as i believe they did close that facility you talk about that was inthe South East UnitedStates BTW i loved the old catalogs you used inthe video ! i did my Woodworking but inmy family we do have our fair share of Machinists and Tool and Die Makers so throughout my life i was asked to “help” unload and setup many of those Machines inthe Catalogs and like Jimmy D i put many hours on a old Delta Unisaw that is still set up where i used it last and will probably stay as a backup saw in that shop i expect that it will most likely outlive me at this point as it has always been well cared for and maintained ! my new saw will be a SawStop
Yes, the older machines were so much better
Thanks for your video. I have one identical to the one on the left I bought new in 1982 when I worked at a Rockwell Tool dealer. As I recall my price at the time was over $400 with the open stand, mitre gage, and rip fence, without the motor. I picked up a motor from Grainger cheaper than one from Rockwell. It has served me well in almost 40 years and will be the last tool I get rid of! Anxiously awaiting your future videos!
That was a lot of money back then
Nice covering of the Band saws. Enjoyed.
Yes
The older wood/metal had a gear shift lever that rotated gears and also three step pulleys. I have one of those and have it dedicated to cutting steel. Then they went to a shaft mounted reduction system not too unlike your pull gear and step pulleys. Others who have tried gear boxes, dc motors, and jack shafts to get to 100 fpm have run into excessive belt slippage on the final drive. Some have made the final drive from the jack shaft a chain drive. If you have the earlier 8" driven pulley saw, you can in deed cut aluminum. I regularly cut aluminum on mine with a 3" drive pulley and 8" driven pulley. The later versions have a 6" driven pulley and run the blade at almost 3000 fpm. I usually add a crank to a piece of 13.5" all thread to make a new blade tensioning rod. I like your bearing idea. While the threaded hole is there for the table stop, the newer ones did not come with the bolt, nut or "cup" that allowed you to set the table stop and still be able to tilt it the opposite direction. Making a few of those would be a good future video.
Thank you,. I have about five videos coming up on the subject. I experienced much failure. And I know exactly what you mean with the belt slippage, that was a major problem. I made the exact crank with threaded rod that you mentioned, and I only did it yesterday, LOL. My neighbor has one of the combination saws. But it is a late model. I eventually it will make a video using it. My saw was very unsatisfactory for cutting steel. Vibrating, shattering, and extremely noisy. Nothing like a real metal cutting saw.
Another great video. I purchased one of these new in the 90's when I was doing a lot of wood working. Now I am getting into machining and fabricating. I am planning on converting mine to do steel also. I am thinking of doing it through pulley ratio's and also moving the motor under the table so it does not get as much dust. No matter how much I clean it, the motor always seems to be an inch deep in saw dust. I will look forward to watching how you do it. Always seem to pick up a good idea or two from your video's.
Thank you, watch for the upcoming videos
Yet another priceless examination of history and breakdown of tools and their uses. Keep up the great work!
deltamachinery.com/products/band-saws/28-400
Thanks
I have had the older saw like yours, but with the enclosed stand, since new in the early eighties...and the doors are a pain, as you say... I did buy and install Carter ball bearing guides which was a great improvement over Cool Blocks or the original steel {or cast iron} guides...It has been a great saw and I cut aluminum AND brass on it running at the original speed. I also developed a way to sharpen the blade right on the saw many years ago using a chainsaw diamond burr and a Dremel..They cut better than new afterwards..A 93 1/2" blade takes about twenty minutes....As a boy in the machine shop, one of my jobs was silver-soldering bandsaw blades for customers..I have done hundreds of them....Looking forward to your follow-up videos, Lyle...thank you.....
Thanks
i am hoping he discusses the best guides to replace the original. i have one of these 14" delta brand, not sure of its age.
👍👍👍👍 I have an old Rockwell Delta and a Delta I purchased new in 1982. Kicked around changing one to metal only as well. But also have a riser block I'd like to install too.... decisions decisions lol... maybe I'll find a third.
I would like a third also if I had the floor space
@@mrpete222I'm hopefully addressing that problem in the near future🤞
I bought mine in about 1990. It works well. I have cut aluminum with a metal cutting blade but the teeth disappeared as soon as I tried cutting mild steel. I've wanted to convert mine to slow it down but it's low on a long list of projects. Looking forward to watching this series
Thanks
I have a 14" Rockwell bandsaw that has the steel hinged doors that I bought in early 1980's. I put in on a wood base after the 1989 earthquake in the SF bay area when the stand was bent. I made a new stand out of wood (4x4 verticals and 2x6's horizontals). The stand made the saw rock steady and then found the wheels were badly out of balance (fixed). The saw is smooth and steady now, works great. I also put an old 1hp sleeve bearing electric motor on it, I was given which makes it a great saw.
That must've been quite an earthquake to top all that bandsaw. Like they got in Alaska yesterday
There are a few modifications and aftermarket products that enhance these saws performance. I have two of these saws of different vintages. 1) I found the webbing in the casting were constantly filled with sawdust, so I filled the open spaces with spray foam. 2) The blade guide height adjustment kept loosening no matter how hard I snugged the knob. I made a lever by bending a bolt at right angles, then cutting off the head and putting on a wooden handle. No more slipping ...3) I added a stronger after market blade tension spring. I got mine from Iturra, but I understand Olsen also offers one now.
i don't know if Iturra is still in business, but he offered a wide range of fine products that enhanced the 14" Delta.
I see that Delta no longer markets this style saw.
Thank you for that
Like your second 14” band saw, on my Delta 14” from - looks like from the serial number, 1964 day 245, the four handles are power coated cast metal. It also has the hinged easy open blade guards. I made another dust collection port with a larger hose port and I also made an easily removable internal shroud to collect most of the dust.
Thank you for watching. Good idea for the dust collecting
One of the frustrating things about these saws was the use of zinc alloy trunnions. I learned the hard way about grabbing the table to move the saw. The trunions simply crumbled when the table was twisted. Many of the imports are now using cast iron trunnions which is a big improvement.
Yes, you can't use the table as a handle
Like you Mr Pete, I prefer metal over plastic for long term durability.
Yes
My Delta bought in the early 90's has "MEXICO" cast into the inner, vertical section of the upper frame. Also, there was a lot of slop in the
adjustable, upper blade guide hole which wasn't machined in the upper frame. It appears Delta only used a sand core to make that hole.
I eventually got feed up with the sloppy, poor alignment and bored a bigger hole and made a close tolerance sleeve. Now, the blade
guide moves up and down spot on and saws perfectly. Thanks for the inspiration mrpete!
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My 28-243 14” bandsaw is date coded Oct. 1989 and it says made in the USA. Must have been one of the last years before they moved manufacturing out of the U.S.
Thoroughly enjoyed, a few things to add. I have 4 delta 14's and a jet 14 (delta painted white) The oldest is a 1947 Delta Milwaukee with the open stand, a 1970's 2 speed wood/metal (2 HP) labeled Delta-Rockwell with the tan paint scheme but still with a wood blade guard, one similar to the newer one shown with the closed stand (3/4 HP), and a 1990's with a side mount motor on an open stand (1 HP). The 2 speed has an oil bath gearbox as the lower casting along with step pulleys for further adjustment. The build quality definitely got cheaper during the Delta-Rockwell years. As for the hex remaining on the blade guide on the bottom of the upper guard, my best guess is it is to align the guide blocks with the blade, the jet 14" I have does not have that feature and has to be checked occasionally for inaccuracy. A few years ago I was on the hunt for my first bandsaw and quickly realized there were no quality new ones on the market and turned to the used market (And subsequently acquired multiple)
Good move to buy four of them
Looking at the newer band saw blade tensioner at 18:17. Hasn't change much over the years until the one I bought about 15 years old. The knob and mechanism that tensions the belt is the same. What Delta added was a long arm that will quickly un-tension the blade and just as quickly re-tension it to the original tension setting. This prevents damaging the rubber tire on the wheels by leaving the saw fully tensioned all the time. HANDY!
I probably need to add that on mine
They are called "quick releases". While mine came from the factory, I found several aftermarket and do-it-yourself systems by Googling "delta 14 band saw tension quick release". Could be an interesting new video idea for you.
Watch all your videos .... old man Loving them in Alabama....
.... old man Loving them in Tennessee....
Hey, you old timers can't have all the fun; Middle-aged Hoosier watching from Indiana.
@@tom87pate LOLOL
.....in Texas.
@@vernonkarm8016 Meet Vernon Currier LOL
I have a delta Milwaukee 14" bandsaw built in 1952. Restored like new. Works great.
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I have the two speed, it has the hollow frame of cast iron. My friend had an old sears saw with a jackshaft reduction for metal cutting, light diecast frame/ covers combined and it worked fine for him.
You are fortunate to have that saw that is the good one
I picked up a 14" Beaver Bandsaw this summer from a retired shop teacher that maybe I will convert to metal. The Beaver was built in sometime in the 1950's in Ontario, and that company was also gobbled up by Rockwell.
Yeah I never heard of that brand
Very nice video! Now I have a metal cutting Delta, with the gear box, but have only used the saw as direct drive. I will have to get some step pulleys and fill the gear box with oil now and see how much oil it leaks. Haha! Enjoy your videos.
Yes, settled up for metal cutting
@@mrpete222 I'll get the parts together and try recording it. Haven't done a how to video, but will give it a try.
@mrpete222 Mr Pete, good morning, just put a video of the old bandsaw with back gears on my youtube page. Demonstrated the different speeds through the back gear and step pulleys. Thank you!
Great video! I have one of the Chinese knock-offs and have had to make a few improvements. Looking forward to the next videos on band saws for some more improvement ideas.
Thanks
What kind of improvements did you make? I have a knockoff (probably from china, but it is from the 90's so I have some hope part of it might be US/Canada made). I already know I need an aftermarket fence and replacing the guides with "cool blocks", minor repairs to the machine, and finally a much better base (or lots of metal added to make it heavy/stiff). My problem is i don't want to throw too much money at it, if I do I should just start to look at a modern high quality machine.
Third party (kreg) fence, cool blocks, urethane tires. Mine is 4 speed using a jack shaft. The secondary belt slipped a lot on the jack shaft so I moved it to one step over to get a bigger pulley and more contact. That stopped the slipping, but made the saw a little faster and reduced it to a 3 speed saw. Replacing the chinese belts on both the motor to jack shaft and jack shaft to saw, along with the new tires, made the saw almost vibration free--a problem I had from the beginning. The belts made the biggest difference. I also extended the blade tensioning knob to above the saw so I don't break my knuckles when adjusting. I changed all of hex head bolts on the blade guides to socket head screws so I can adjust with allen wrenches. I spend as much time fiddling with the saw as I do using it, but it is fun trying to improve it.
@@Swarm509 I made a reply, but didn't do it right so you have to look at your original question.
I would suggest using a 3 phase motor and VFD to change the cutting speed. I sold my Delta wood/metal cutting BS to purchase a much larger BS. I wish I had not sold the 14" Delta, because I do miss being able to slow the speed for metal cutting.
So what I am going to do is the above. Yes the motor and VFD can be pricey, but I'll spend the money on something. Why not buy these devices and enjoy it?
By the way..............
Great video Mr Pete. We love you. And I am sure 1,000's more do to. You have done so much for us dear person.
P.S. You will love that Delta fence because it has a fantastic "vernier" knob. Be surprised how much that comes in handy. Also; that wood/metal 14" Delta BS your brother had; has 6 speeds (using opposing multi-grooved pulleys and a quick switch over knob, from hi speed to lo speed as well), with a chart as to what speed you need for what metal you are going to cut. And it is quite easy to change the speeds. Awesome.
Yes indeed. I have all the equipment to do a motor change with our VFD in a future video. Watch for it is on the schedule
Interesting comparison.
I look forward to the next series of videos on the conversion to metal cutting. I have seen another series on the conversion, I think maybe Mustie1.
Thanks.
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I have 2 home made bandsaws (plans from mathias wandel) i love my wooden framed saw BUT i strayed from plans and in the process of making a metal framed saw with really no knowledge of bandsaws...After this video i already have cobblers remorse LOL I always look forward to new videos from mr pete...
Thanks
That was great! I love an old catalog.
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Jackson TN is where Delta relocated to. The plant was off I - 40
I had a Delta band saw that I bought new in 2001 and it was built in Jackson. I am not sure when they moved off shore.. but they became junk when they did.
Yes
"Silly as it might be"... hardly ...
yes.. it has aggravated me as well...
very entertaining video...
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....Your blade size written on the band saw instantly reminded me of the first thing I did when I bought my old Olson metal saw at an auction, WRITE DOWN the blade size on it with a paint marker!
I too would rather see metal instead of cheap arsh plastics on knobs and accessories.But bean counters win for shareholders. About the only place I approve of plastics is in hand tools as long as they stay away from the "junk" plastics because it really reduces the tool weight.
..that all for now, 99 miles away from ND/Boisavain Canadian/International Peace Gardens
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I love it Mr Pete.
I did a pretty good comparison between the present-day Delta 14" bandsaw and the Harbor Freight 14" bandsaw...and found them to be virtually the same machine with the major difference being that the HF machine uses a closed-frame capacitor-start motor with a 4 step pulley system (cast iron pulleys too) for speed changes. I went with the HF saw and haven't been sorry yet. Now the Delta saws have a very new look to them, but this was a few years ago.
It's good to hear that the horror freight saw is pretty good quality.
I have one of those wood/metal saws from back in the forties. I restored it and put a two speed motor on it, so with the two speed gearbox and the three step pulleys, I’ve got more speeds than I’ll likely ever need. I also made a new rear blade guard, but I used some scrap black walnut. Like that my old saw has zero plastic anywhere in or on it. Mine looks just like the one in that first catalog. Wish I had an original stand tho...
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This going to be a good series. I have one of the 1950's style. With the wooden blade guard.
These quality tools that lasted 70 years and still working today where from a time where man didn't need a computer to do is work and to become a creator or a professional woodworker !
Re: bandsaw blade length: Once bought half dozen blades from a small operator who had silver soldered a mess of blades from several coils of Starrett blade. I had to return them because he'd cut them at 92-5/8". Imagine his chagrin!
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l ended up using a variable pulley (spring loaded) and made the motor swing to adjust the speed . works great for wood or metal,
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I installed a DC motor and controller on mine - the variable speed is nice, and it has worked well for me, both on wood and metal.
I will be doing that in our future video
Sometimes the motor etc choice is made by what you pick up used and cheap and then find a good use for
Exactly - mine was surplus, and wasn't expensive. I'm waiting to see what MrPete does...
Good timing! I just inherited one bandsaw similar to these but under a different brand. I wish I had the heavy base! The one I have needs a lot of work to make it stiff and stable. My Dad bought the one I have back in the early 90's so I think these have been copied for some time.
Yes thanks
It’s nice that you have both an older and a newer model to compare the two, I have been tying to find a band saw for over a year on Craigs list, but the prices even for run down Chinese made saws is ridiculous.
That surprises me, I thought they were a dime a dozen
Mr. Pete, you & I share the very same feelings about manufacturing of USA products.
A little more info. on the band saw. Around 2009-10 Delta thought(?) they could have China manufacture that saw. That turned into a huge problem. Parts were not standardized/nor fit one with other. Carter's bearing guides could not fit because the casting interfered. I think that's when Delta decided to sell to Taiwan. Everything, table saws, band saws, drill presses, the trade name Delta, the list goes on. Why did I do the research into this? Simple, I bought a band saw that was manufactured in China by Eskimos in the dark. Yes, I paid $50.00 for it & I knew how to fix those problems. I taught Industrial Arts for 22 years.
It's good to hear from another shop teacher. The quality sure went down on those band sauce.
I do not recall the manufacturer name of the band saw we have at work but it is a monster of a saw. It has a two speed switch for high or low speed next to the table and I have seen many guys I work with cutting metal on the high speed, to which I just shake my head. The really neat part of this band saw is that on the upright support of the saw is all the necessary stuff to weld and grind a blade together. All the adjustments are there for different widths and thicknesses of blades. There is also a switch for a blower that has a tube next to the blade to clear the work area as you are cutting. The saw is all cast iron and heavy standing about 7 foot tall or so.
That sounds like quite a saw. Is it a do all.
@@mrpete222 I took a closer look at it today and found the name plate on the band saw. It is a Tannewitz Di-Saw. The plate says "For continuous sawing, filing and polishing inside and outside" I'm not sure how it does all of that when I only see the saw blade and work table. Perhaps there are other attachments we don't have is our shop. I'm just the electrician/controls guy at work and do not get to use this equipment much.
@@Th3Su8 I just went to their website. Thats quite a saw!
I have one 50's wood/metal with the gearbox and extra belt for wood. I also have a wood only that has the quick blade change lever. That is a nice feature.
Awesome, wish I had one of the combination saws
I have a Rockwell branded version but it must be late Rockwell. Wood and metal version, enclosed base and motor like your Delta, sheet metal belt box on the back side like your Delta but the belt cover box has a hinged cover for access to the gearbox shift, 4 belt speeds plus 2 gearbox speeds, hinged wheel guards, cast metal knobs. It has the same part number as the Delta branded version. Lovely saw. The riser kit is still available.
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I and others have removed that slow hand wheel at the top for tightening the blade and replaced with a crank with about a 6 inch arm. Much nicer. I think if I can find a faucet type handle I will replace my thumb bolts like you did.
I wonder if there is going to be a run on used Delta band saws now.
I think I will put a crank on mine ted.
@@mrpete222 I kind of figured you would be ahead of me there too
I just got one of the wood/metal saws (28-300); interestingly, the tubular guard for the blade next to the column was wood. I thought it was homemade, but a manual I found for this model notes that it was originally wood.
That is kind of surprising
I wrote my blade lengths on the saws too. Then I still didn’t have ‘em when I went to order blades, so I now keep them in a Notepad file in the machinery folder on the computer. At last, the data is where I need it. I can even keep my favorite blade stock numbers there, the easier to find that they’ll be discontinued next time I want some.
At my age I would forget that I Had those sizes in the notepad
Wow that's a nice saw! 👌
Planing on converting mine to metal. Looking forward to that video.
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When another man signs your bag 💼 ya gotta be friends for life lol all kidding aside very informative video new subscriber here thanks !!!
Love the video sir I'll be watching. I've been looking at a wood saw and my plan was to figure out how to convert it so this is just in the nick of time for me. it a Shame the metal one's are so expensive.there is about a $ 300.00 difference between the two of them but are on the same frames .
Yes
I can't wait for the next video. I also have a 14" delta bandsaw that I would like to convert to a metal saw.
read also owwm.org for information.
@@michaelkenefick thanks I'll check kg out!
Coming soon
@@mrpete222 I can't wait!
The design was Walker Turner ,they bought them in the 1940 range .
john suckoe ..... Two distinct companies in the beginning. Delta's 890 bandsaw began in the very early 1930s and were built in Milwaukee. The Walker Turner firm was out of So. Plainfield, NJ and was a competitor. The Rockwell conglomerate bought both companies and did mix & match some machines, but the bandsaws seemed immune from that.... the Delta model stayed in production to the end.
I don't see it as being the same as walker Turner
Great shop lesson Mr. Pete
Thanks
I love my old Delta Milwaukee except, for those miserable blade guards. I got mine for free without a motor from the place where I spent most of my working life. It was on one of those narrow stands and got knocked over and broke the trunnions and support. The maintenance supervisor who gave it to me said, "It's so old you won't be able to get parts for it ." Well, I knew they never changed the design by 1982, when I got it. Two days later, I got the trunnions and was able to braze the support casting back together. I also, got the height attachment. Mine now, has two motors. A regular and a gear motor, another freebie. They are connected to a dpdt switch. Up is the high speed motor and down is the gear motor. The gear motor is on a swinging mount. There are two pulleys on the saw. When I want to cut steel, I swing the gear motor up and slip an extra belt onto it and the other pulley. The high speed motor just goes along for the ride and doesn't mind a bit. Before I made that set-up, I had the saw lined up to my South Bend headstock. I would put a pulley on a short piece of shaft, chucked it up in the lathe and slung a Corvair fan belt, (they're very long), from it to the bandsaw. With the lathe in back gear, it worked perfectly.
That is an ingenious set up with the Lathe. I never would have thought of it. And yes I remember those Corvair fan belts. Every car came with an extra one
I have the gearbox model, not sure the year. Pretty familiar with the non-hinged covers they are a pain. Also odd that all the chips and swarf fall to the bottom of the open base where the motor is mounted. Had to shield it with a piece of cardboard. Odd designs. This is a fun video and will enjoy the series.
Yes, there was no provision for getting rid of sawdust
They will cut brass, aluminum and copper at those higher "wood" speeds with no ill affects to the "wood" blades. Also, McMaster Carr will provide custom length blades of almost any of their offered blades for metal cutting upon request. Cutting copper and Aluminum at the higher speeds is almost a must ...as well as using the wood blades because the tooth geometry is more positive than the metal blades.
Thank you, that is good information
Bronze will be instant death to a Bi-Metal blade, were as 360 brass, copper and aluminum won't phase it! If you have fear, I understand. It is the "Internet"... I know. So, try an old tired blade on some scrap you got layin around, put it in a vid. (Yer da man! THX U!)
You have good vigor, mine crapped out about 3 years ago.
How old are you, I am 75
Always looking for "the deal", when J.C.Penney dropped the appliance, hardware and auto center departments in 1983, all their tools went on sale. Picked up my Rockwell drill press and table saw that year, which BTW I still use.
You made a good buy
Keep it up Lyle. Love your videos. Thanks!
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Willard F. Rockwell was a gifted engineer/businessman whose contributions to the American industrial fabric ranged from tools (both consumer and industrial) to automotive products used in the production of cars and trucks (he was a long-time Director at Timken) to aviation products and finally contributed to the space age through Rockwell International.
I found that extremely interesting--thanks. I will read up on him.
Good information! Thank you for sharing. What would be the reason that back upper wheel assembly (thicker part that house the ball bearing) rubbed against the hinge?
Did anyone else see the spider photo bomb the video at 16:23 😂lol
I need to get out more! Lol
I have the newer one but the on and off power is a toggle switch. In changing thrust bearings, I could not figure out how to get to the bottom one. Your help in accomplishing this is requested. Thanks.
I had to stop the video to give you a thumbs up when you said why don’t they put the size blade these things take on the machine? No kidding , talk about dropping the ball !
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Hello, the pulley on the bandsaw wheel (not the motor) works its way off its shaft; the little key that stabilizes the pulley works its way loose, and the pulley comes off. Do I just need a new key? Where would I get one, if you think this is the answer. Thank you.
I own the saw on the right and enjoy using it for woodworking. I could see having two so the blade changes would be reduced.
Yes
Looks like a good series !!
Thanks Mike, I hope you are well
My biggest gripe about stationary power tools in the US is the SWITCHES. Even the switches like the one you show on on the newer saw which look to be very good quality still are not No-Voltage Release switches.
You can tell somebody to unplug the machine as often as you may like, but unless they also remember to check the physical position of the switch, when they plug it back in it may jump up and bite 'em!
Instead for an extra few dollars you can install a No-Voltage Release type switch which will save you such an indignity, and perhaps also save you a fingertip or two.
Good idea thanks
enjoy any video put out by Tubalcain Mr.Pete222 aka Lyle Peterson your videos are the penultimate of You-Tube Machining and allied craftsman type Edutainment
Thank you very much
My 1934 Delta bandsaw has a 10 to 12” pulley that makes the blade run slower
Great video
I have a Taiwanese knock off with the wood/metal tag. It only has a 3 step pulley, though perhaps uses a slower motor too. I just moved into the lowest setting and added metal cutting blade. So true on the blade length. I actually copied you and wrote it on my saw with a sharpie. Thank you.
Is there no gearbox on it?
@@mrpete222 Just ran down and took a look. There is a jack shaft. Tricone on the motor to a tricone on the jack, the small pulley on the jack goes to a big one on the drive wheel. The other two can be swapped on the motor, giving two speeds. I have no convenient facility to check the speed, but it is pretty slow. I can go measure them to calculate the speed if you'd like.
Yes you did say drill press, but I didn’t catch it until you put it on the screen. I thought I made a mistake once,but I was mistaken.😁
I work mostly with metal sheet and would love to have a metal cutting bandsaw, so I am looking forward looking forward to seeing your next video. I have also been contemplating slowing my tablesaw down to cut metal: may apply . Thanks and God willing you will stay spry for many many more years!
lol
Have you ever seen the ones sold under the french brand "Syderic" ? They were built on the Delta frame but very robust for metal cutting, with a 2 speed gearbox, 8 speeds total, closed stand and "one single door" guard ?
Have not, wish I could see one
@@mrpete222 you can see one there for example : passion-usinages.forumgratuit.org/t2577-syderic-ssc-18-35-scie-a-ruban-verticale
those usually have the blade welder directly on it.
I am very interested in seeing how your conversion of these to metal cutting turns out. I have been trying to find a decent metal bandsaw locally, but all I seem to see for sale are wood saws. If your project works out, I think I will do something similar.
You will very seldom see a metal cutting bandsaw for sale
Hi Mr Pete: Great Video!!! I only wished you had gone more into the Rip Fence and how it attaches to the table. I own a 16" 3 wheel model made by Pentair co,a division of Delta.I am trying to figure out a way to attach a rip fence as I do not own one and the parts are almost all discontinued for my model 28-560.
Yes
Thank you for the information you provided. I will be replacing my strut bearings but when I removed the table from my older14 inch Delta band saw, the bearing underneath was difficult to remove. Please tell me what I need to do to replace the bearing. Will I have to replace the unit where the bearing is attached? Thanking you in advance for your help.
I have the last version of this type bandsaw with the higher hp version but the knobs are made from cast zinc and not plastic which I assume they had changed back to metal.
Mr. Pete,
Delta sold to a Chinese company about 5 yrs ago. They still make the Unisaw in the Carolinas. When they sold out, the new company through out all the parts to the US machines. They only support the new Unisaw. A Delta rep told me this at a trade show. The US manufacturers cannot compete with the Chinese for consumer goods. Wilton started building their drill presses in China when they were bought by Jet. Clausing stopped building their 15 inch drill press about 12 years ago. The 20 inch was still made in the states, but I understand it is imported now. It's a shame, but no one wants to spend the money for US made tools.
All very true, but sad
the chinese saws are junk, the tiawan made saws are high quality.
Whoa, you had me scared there, but according to Clausing's website the drill presses are still made in Cleveland. The parent company is the 600 Group out of London.
Paul,
I took a look on their website, and they have returned the manufacture of the 20 inch drill press to the US. They have not built the 15 inch drill press since 2006. I have one from the last run I bought in early 2007.
The copying of the Delta bandsaws were the first tool copied, and opened the flood gates for the Far East. I guess the only good thing is some of the Grizzly parts work just fine.
Excellent, as always!!!!!!!!
Thanks