@@blackllama1 Like everything on my 80 it has become a disaster haha, absolute mission to get them popped out, and then they are seized in the rod, had to fully remove both sets completely so could blow torch the pipes to be able to unscrew them, now waiting for the set on the other side to come in 🤣
No cotter pin in the replacement tie rod end? At 0:56, it shows you removing the cotter pin from the old part, but when you put the final nut on at 6:52 you can see it's not a castle nut, and there's no cotter pin. That seems like a bad idea, no? The original design has a pin as a safety factor, why not replace it with the same? I see at 4:10 that there is a ny-lock nut, but that does not seem as secure to me. Just my two cents.
I didn’t notice a lot of difference but what I did find was play and movement in other places. Unfortunately I did not have time to video it all. It is a lot better now it is all firm
Hey, brother - just bought a 94 and had new wheels and tires put on but they couldn't align due to a pretty significant rightward push on the driver side front tire. They thought it might be the knuckle/king pin, but I wonder if it could be this tie rod being screwed in too much and so being "short" when the steering wheel is straight and causing a rightward pull on that driver side tire? (I'm in the US so mine is LH driver)
I don’t usually give out part numbers as some makes amuse slightly different parts it’s best to get the vin number from inside the engine bay and do a parts check that will give you the correct part for your car.
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Thanks for the vid! Simple and to the point. Awesome.
Another great video, cheers for this gotta go do mine now as they are completely flogged out haha
All the best getting it done
@@blackllama1 Like everything on my 80 it has become a disaster haha, absolute mission to get them popped out, and then they are seized in the rod, had to fully remove both sets completely so could blow torch the pipes to be able to unscrew them, now waiting for the set on the other side to come in 🤣
@@Umbator I know the feeling. Sometimes I dread pulling something apart. Cause it usually goes longer than I expected. Good luck with it all
No cotter pin in the replacement tie rod end? At 0:56, it shows you removing the cotter pin from the old part, but when you put the final nut on at 6:52 you can see it's not a castle nut, and there's no cotter pin. That seems like a bad idea, no? The original design has a pin as a safety factor, why not replace it with the same? I see at 4:10 that there is a ny-lock nut, but that does not seem as secure to me. Just my two cents.
yawn
did you find much of a difference afterwards? thinking of doing this for my old 75 series troopy
I didn’t notice a lot of difference but what I did find was play and movement in other places. Unfortunately I did not have time to video it all. It is a lot better now it is all firm
Hey, brother - just bought a 94 and had new wheels and tires put on but they couldn't align due to a pretty significant rightward push on the driver side front tire. They thought it might be the knuckle/king pin, but I wonder if it could be this tie rod being screwed in too much and so being "short" when the steering wheel is straight and causing a rightward pull on that driver side tire? (I'm in the US so mine is LH driver)
Great video mate! What is the replacement part number?
I don’t usually give out part numbers as some makes amuse slightly different parts it’s best to get the vin number from inside the engine bay and do a parts check that will give you the correct part for your car.
How did yours unscrew so easily? Dang. Are they not original?
Mine were not to bad to unscrew and no the ones I took off were not original
3:17 Can anyone help I have a 70 series cruiser and Both sides of my tie rod is hard to remove
Nice
Thanks