Hey all! Thank you for watching - posting the three images in the description as a comment to help folks see the routing. Diagram 01: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse1.jpg Diagram 02: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse2.jpg Diagram 03: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse3.jpg
I need to give this a go, I had that AHA moment too, and now I know what I need! Right now, my engine bay looks like a rats nest with my retro fits, ditch lights, chase lights, rock lights, and a couple other accessories😅 thanks for the diagrams and the videos!!!!
Thanks just finished mine for my Excursion followed the steps and ended up working out great! Much tighter fit under the hood on my vehicle but made it work. Now ready for the accessories!
I love how clean you made your wiring look. I didid mine this weekend. It turned out great. I feel much better about my wiring now! Thanks for the original video to give me the drive and inspiration to do the right thing and install relays. Love your videos!
Well done! I wish I had been able to see this when learning to wire my Baja racer. Speaking of which, two electrical items I learned from racing; 1. was to use small pop up circuit breakers instead of fuses. That way if something pops you can keep resetting it until you find the issue and fix it without wasting all your spare fuses (yes, I had a few extra circuit breakers too, just in case one failed!). A little more expensive but well worth it. 2. For long wire runs, twist the wires around each other. It reduces vibration on the wire run thereby reducing wear and tear on the wire covering. You have to really plan for it and it does take more wire but well worth it. And us Land Rover guys know what started that fire...All Hail Lucas, the Prince of Darkness and He Who Releases the Smoke Gods! ;-)
Michael, I hate to point this out, but that big red cable connected to the relay closest to the fuse block (3:04) and then later actually installed in the 80 (top right of the fuse block @ 7:47) is cooper-clad aluminum. Doesn’t carry as much current and is more brittle than pure copper. I’m sure it’ll be fine for your application for now, but keep an eye on it. May need more maintenance. Love the videos/community. Stay safe! ⚡️ 🏕 🚙
are you sure? it looks like high-quality audio power wire to me. how can you tell? keep in mind tined-copper wire is silver in color and is corrosion resistant. CCA wire is copper colored... it's hard to tell from a video! i was just wondering what clues you were picking up on so i can also learn. nevermind! at 3:44 you can read it as "CW Designs" - a quick search for their wire confirmed it *IS* copper clad aluminum. GREAT EYE @robertnelson! so, yea, CCA wire isn't all 'that bad'. (notice the quotes) CCA wire won't carry the current that full copper wire will, which could lead to more heat due to the aluminum causing more resistance. something to be aware of!
Ive watched this series multiple times. And I mean rewind style watching to really try to understand. Its really a gem of a find. Especially for noobs like me. I learned a ton. Any struggles were my own inexperience. But the format couldn't have been any clearer. I pretty much bought the exact set up. Just had my aha moment. About to tackle this biotch! For my overland project. I'm gonna make a couple personal modifications in mounting. But for the most part I'm following you exactly. I'm super stoked. if my rig burns its your fault...;)...Stupid question, anyone can answer, how does the white wire meet the battery power? Directly back to the positive terminal? ie all six wires to positive terminals? Thank you once again. This channel gives me all kinds of knowledge and inspiration!
Another question re the white wire..why isn’t that wire fused when everything else is, surely that can get a power spike or short coming off the main power cable also ?
I think a lot of people do not understand the open and closed circuit lingo. It took me years to get through my brain closed means the power is on. As a teen, I wired many KC lights and back then they sucked tons of juice as I would wire 4 or 5 150W halogen lights across my push bar and light bar on my full size Bronco. Man those days were awesome. Lived to play!! But yes, relays and fuses and low gauge wire!! Now I work to much!!
Ive needed this video but was to chicken to ask...The original video just blew right through and I was lost , ..... Hopefully i can learn this time, YES !!!
Thanks for this - this is why I have booked my Navara (Aust) into my auto sparky to wire up my fuse block, this way I know that I won't burn my vehicle to the ground :-)
So...essentially, the accessory switch on the dash is used to cycle relay switch ground (85) from Ungrounded (off) to Grounded (on), rather than power between switch from off/on (86). (86) is always powered, its the Ground circuit (85) that goes through the firewall & through the switch, thus completing the circuit, thus sending power through (87). Got it.! Power & Ground & Power connections from the Relay are still (obviously) required to route from the relay to the lights, etc...
I see the point you made with negative switching but what if your dash switch negative wire get shorted before the switch? Your accessories will come on. This mean that trouble shooting could be hard. And this is for all wires. I would do it for the accessories themselves as you do but to me, the dash switches should be before the relay to not get power to the relay at all time. You could just run one power wire to the dash and connect every switch to it. Then return a wire from each switches to the relay then ground. That way you got only one "hot" wire in the cab if everything is off
Hey Mikey, I liked it a lot!!!!! A very informative video! Unfortunately, I went with the S-pod. I'm a baaaaaaaddddd boy. I must acknowledge the simple genius in building your DIY fused relay system. Cheers, Mate.
@@OverlandBound The S-pod controller was installed a year ago. It controls all the external lights and the air compressor. All without any failures to date. Cheers, Mate.
Hi I notice at 7:36 it appears that the screw heads have have been sprayed with a red coating. Is this some additional insulation? If so, what did you use?
Pretty new to vehicle electronics so please forgive the ignorance. Why does the run from the battery through the circuit breaker to the fuse block need to be “as short as possible?” Can I put this in the cab of my wrangler behind the rear seats?
I am a little confused (maybe a lot confused). Anyhow, I am wanting to wire a 50 watt ham radio, along with other accessories by using the following setup: Running 10 gauge fused power and ground wires from the battery to a fuse block, using the fuse block's power and ground locations. Then power a 4 prong relay to the fuse block and grounding the relay back to the fuse block, using this relay to control the radio. The radio would also be grounded to the fuse block. As for powering the relay, I would be running an ignition controlled power source directly to the relay. Does this make sense or is the arrangement an accident waiting to happen?
Wiring always scares a lot of people, and this is a good overview. One thing I noticed is I haven't seen fuse "boxes" or "Blocks" that have a ground wire. Typically a fuse block is simply distributing power from a larger circuit to various smaller circuits so no need for a ground. One other item that concerns me are those components seems to be amazon cheapies. I would recommend going with a little higher quality components. I but my components from ceautoelectricsupply.com I make no commision from any sale there but have always been satisfied with the quality and Customer service. If your project is still too intimidating he will build it custom for your application.
Thoughts on using relays that have fuses built into them? I've seen a few of those where you can just attach a fuse to the relay, rather than having a whole separate fuse box
I still don't understand specifically where he's connecting white wire, relay 86, into. Diagram indicates on (+) between 100A breaker and fuse block. Am I understanding that right? Then negative, relay 85, goes to switch (+) which grounds from there. This is a fantastic video, I'm sure i'm just missing it somehow. First time I'm attempting this. Also, thank you for the dual battery video also. Starting that this weekend.
Hi sorry late to the party, I have read the comments but just want to clarify I have off road lights I plan on wiring through the gap in my lift gate. (2001 Montero Sport) I want o build this type of power block but the switches are a little confusing. All I would do is run one ground wire from each relay to each switch and then each switch to ground. So I complete the ground circuit for the relay which would then turn on each light? Do I have this right?
What are you using for the flagpole setup in the desert? I am looking for a leave no trace solution without having to try several different things myself to find something that works.
That’s something like this: www.displays2go.com/P-35260/Portable-Flag-Pole-Tailgater-s-Tire-Mount-Included?.pla&GooglePLA&gclid=CjwKCAjwkPX0BRBKEiwA7THxiCWjigRGVkJ_EdQpWUWNt-CEr-_Bq78ei3X1eECzZuRxOftBrTbyIRoC8GAQAvD_BwE
That is very helpful to me for my mind. You have a 100 amp breaker and i have been looking to buy one all i find are amps above and under 100amps but never 100amp. I am still learning. Is it safe to go higher or lower on the amp level on the breaker if so what would be your advice? Thank you guys for what you both do. Be safe take care
Hi Michael, I sure enjoy your videos. This one in particular. I need to learn more about auto electric. I completely rewired my 69 Jeepster Commando and I still feel like I don't understand it.
How are you connecting the white wires? Are they spliced together or connected separately? Where are the connected to? the fuse block? Where on the fuse block?
I have one of my fans hooked up the ground way so my one wire runs to power and when my temp sensor in the manifold triggers on it kicks on How would a switch work ? Doesn’t switches have 2 posts ?
@@OverlandBound 2 years later, i'm referring to the same video for a new rig! Although i do have a question; are your white wires daisy chained into the positive post on the fuse block??
after a long day of trial and error, and 4 blown fuses later. I just ended up rewiring my lights up with the factory wiring harness, from rigid. I must be doing something wrong.
It confuses most of us! Yes, that is correct. Each relay has a white wire. Those are soldered together and go to the fuse block positive. I'll post a picture!
So just something that's confusing me (a mechanical engineer) is that a switch should only function if, when it's open, one side of the switch is a different voltage than the other. If they were the same voltage then when you connect the 2 sides together, then no current would flow and nothing would happen. So when you say the switch is "negative switched" and there are no hot wires in the cab, I'm not sure that is correct. But considering I'm not an electrical engineer, I could somehow be wrong. If someone knows more I'd like to know.
they will if you piggy-back the incoming wire to the light terminal on the switch as well. the light and the switch both use the ground on the switch as a common ground so you don't have to ground each separately. :)
Hey Michael, I built this and it’s awesome, only on problem, the switch panel I bought is lighted, so it doesn’t work. You were going to post a photo of the piggyback solution to lighted switches can you? Or maybe someone can offer advice without having to go with two prong switches,my hat work.
It’s not letting me respond to my original comment! I’d love to know what your power consumption/charge is on a normal weekend. Thanks for the response, always enjoy your videos and especially the short ones lately!
Thank you for adding the photo’s! That really helped out. Did you run into any issues with splicing all your white wires together incase you have to replace one?
Hi Michael, great video also the original on the relay board very professional looking! After reading comments maybe a actual mock up build to a lighted switch and a accessory would be more clear to some of the viewers ,especially the part about the piggy backing 86, just a thought. Just wondering are you close to the where you had your engine rebuilt?
@@OverlandBound Oh cool we aren't that far from each other then Pinole, I have a sas 4runner 30 years old, did most of the work myself but really like your 80 series .
Great video thanks! Hoping you go over adding the power cable to the rear of vehicle too, in reference to old video about add the ports. Simple enough to attach power to same source as fuse box?
they will if you piggy-back the incoming wire to the light terminal on the switch. the light and the switch both use the ground on the switch as a common ground so you don't have to ground each separately. :)
dobrzpe you mind elaborating a little with the diagrams 😅 or maybe use different wording. I get 30 is the 12v positive so that is one wire to the switch, then you’ve got the ground. The last wire I can’t figure out is the third accessory wire? (This is for light up rocker switches)
You are correct! It just provides a reliable negative ground source on the fuse block which has negative ground terminals. Nothing in this use case requires it.
They do different jobs. Fuse box protects wires in the circuit from overloading, relay protects switch from overloading. That's my understanding at least.
86 is power for the switch. it can be piggy backed off of the same wire feeding 30 OR run through it's own fuse on the fuse block. all it does is give power to the switch. it doesn't need to be a large wire and doesn't need to be super-high current power either. :)
A lot of people have probly not messed with vehicles from the 60's or older. Switches back then were a lot bigger, wiring was bigger, and you had issues with high current equipment (blower motor, headlight switch) still getting wires hot. The relay came along and changed that. The power to operate a relay is minimal. I think I've read it's .02 amp for one of the Bosch style relays. What does this mean? A less heavy duty switch can be used. And smaller wiring can be used from the switch, to the relay.
Hey all! Thank you for watching - posting the three images in the description as a comment to help folks see the routing.
Diagram 01: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse1.jpg
Diagram 02: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse2.jpg
Diagram 03: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse3.jpg
On the Breaker, what type of sleeves are those for the connectors/lugs?
I need to give this a go, I had that AHA moment too, and now I know what I need! Right now, my engine bay looks like a rats nest with my retro fits, ditch lights, chase lights, rock lights, and a couple other accessories😅 thanks for the diagrams and the videos!!!!
Thanks just finished mine for my Excursion followed the steps and ended up working out great! Much tighter fit under the hood on my vehicle but made it work. Now ready for the accessories!
Hi Scott, where did you mount that on your Excursion?
Your negative switch explanation was my ‘AH-HA” moment of the year. Genius!
I love how clean you made your wiring look. I didid mine this weekend. It turned out great. I feel much better about my wiring now! Thanks for the original video to give me the drive and inspiration to do the right thing and install relays. Love your videos!
Okay after I watching many videos like this I believe you have made the best one!! Very relaxing watching and solid info b
Negative grounding 👌🏽👌🏽 just have to wrap my head around the switching
Well done! I wish I had been able to see this when learning to wire my Baja racer. Speaking of which, two electrical items I learned from racing; 1. was to use small pop up circuit breakers instead of fuses. That way if something pops you can keep resetting it until you find the issue and fix it without wasting all your spare fuses (yes, I had a few extra circuit breakers too, just in case one failed!). A little more expensive but well worth it. 2. For long wire runs, twist the wires around each other. It reduces vibration on the wire run thereby reducing wear and tear on the wire covering. You have to really plan for it and it does take more wire but well worth it.
And us Land Rover guys know what started that fire...All Hail Lucas, the Prince of Darkness and He Who Releases the Smoke Gods! ;-)
Michael, I hate to point this out, but that big red cable connected to the relay closest to the fuse block (3:04) and then later actually installed in the 80 (top right of the fuse block @ 7:47) is cooper-clad aluminum. Doesn’t carry as much current and is more brittle than pure copper. I’m sure it’ll be fine for your application for now, but keep an eye on it. May need more maintenance. Love the videos/community. Stay safe! ⚡️ 🏕 🚙
are you sure? it looks like high-quality audio power wire to me. how can you tell? keep in mind tined-copper wire is silver in color and is corrosion resistant. CCA wire is copper colored... it's hard to tell from a video! i was just wondering what clues you were picking up on so i can also learn.
nevermind! at 3:44 you can read it as "CW Designs" - a quick search for their wire confirmed it *IS* copper clad aluminum. GREAT EYE @robertnelson!
so, yea, CCA wire isn't all 'that bad'. (notice the quotes) CCA wire won't carry the current that full copper wire will, which could lead to more heat due to the aluminum causing more resistance. something to be aware of!
Ive watched this series multiple times. And I mean rewind style watching to really try to understand. Its really a gem of a find. Especially for noobs like me. I learned a ton. Any struggles were my own inexperience. But the format couldn't have been any clearer. I pretty much bought the exact set up. Just had my aha moment. About to tackle this biotch! For my overland project. I'm gonna make a couple personal modifications in mounting. But for the most part I'm following you exactly. I'm super stoked. if my rig burns its your fault...;)...Stupid question, anyone can answer, how does the white wire meet the battery power? Directly back to the positive terminal? ie all six wires to positive terminals? Thank you once again. This channel gives me all kinds of knowledge and inspiration!
same question??
Another question re the white wire..why isn’t that wire fused when everything else is, surely that can get a power spike or short coming off the main power cable also ?
I think a lot of people do not understand the open and closed circuit lingo. It took me years to get through my brain closed means the power is on. As a teen, I wired many KC lights and back then they sucked tons of juice as I would wire 4 or 5 150W halogen lights across my push bar and light bar on my full size Bronco. Man those days were awesome. Lived to play!! But yes, relays and fuses and low gauge wire!! Now I work to much!!
Ive needed this video but was to chicken to ask...The original video just blew right through and I was lost , ..... Hopefully i can learn this time, YES !!!
It's all about the diagrams!
Man that was clear as mud. LOL
:D
Thanks for this - this is why I have booked my Navara (Aust) into my auto sparky to wire up my fuse block, this way I know that I won't burn my vehicle to the ground :-)
Thanks Micheal ,very clear description, good advice.
Hi, where exactly does the white relay wires go to ? Are they spliced together and added to the breaker side of the (+) ? Thank you and great video .
where are you wiring terminal 86 for the switch power?
So...essentially, the accessory switch on the dash is used to cycle relay switch ground (85) from Ungrounded (off) to Grounded (on), rather than power between switch from off/on (86). (86) is always powered, its the Ground circuit (85) that goes through the firewall & through the switch, thus completing the circuit, thus sending power through (87). Got it.!
Power & Ground & Power connections from the Relay are still (obviously) required to route from the relay to the lights, etc...
So did you create another HOT BUS for the 30(?) wire (the hot wire for the solenoid)?
great informative content for us newbies
I see the point you made with negative switching but what if your dash switch negative wire get shorted before the switch? Your accessories will come on. This mean that trouble shooting could be hard. And this is for all wires. I would do it for the accessories themselves as you do but to me, the dash switches should be before the relay to not get power to the relay at all time.
You could just run one power wire to the dash and connect every switch to it. Then return a wire from each switches to the relay then ground. That way you got only one "hot" wire in the cab if everything is off
Thats a much better and professional way
Fantastic explanation.
Wht a lovely explation ❤❤❤❤
Hey Mikey, I liked it a lot!!!!! A very informative video!
Unfortunately, I went with the S-pod. I'm a baaaaaaaddddd boy.
I must acknowledge the simple genius in building your DIY fused relay system. Cheers, Mate.
Would love your report!
@@OverlandBound The S-pod controller was installed a year ago. It controls all the external lights and the air compressor. All without any failures to date. Cheers, Mate.
@@jackwalsh1468 Good to know!
Holy Cow,
a Land Rover Series III on fire ,
thank s for the info
I'm going to have to watch this a couple few times, but I'll get it..(ah haw). Thank you for a great explanation... I'm slow, but I'm learnin🙏🏼🙏🏼👊🏼🤙🏼
It's all about the diagrams!
Thank you for the excellent explanation!
Another great video Sir
Hi I notice at 7:36 it appears that the screw heads have have been sprayed with a red coating. Is this some additional insulation? If so, what did you use?
Great information and content! Thank you!
Pretty new to vehicle electronics so please forgive the ignorance. Why does the run from the battery through the circuit breaker to the fuse block need to be “as short as possible?” Can I put this in the cab of my wrangler behind the rear seats?
Yes you can. The greater the distance, the larger the gauge wire required. You can check out a wiring gauge calculator online.
@@OverlandBound Awesome! Thanks for the great videos and the fast assistance!
I am a little confused (maybe a lot confused). Anyhow, I am wanting to wire a 50 watt ham radio, along with other accessories by using the following setup: Running 10 gauge fused power and ground wires from the battery to a fuse block, using the fuse block's power and ground locations. Then power a 4 prong relay to the fuse block and grounding the relay back to the fuse block, using this relay to control the radio. The radio would also be grounded to the fuse block. As for powering the relay, I would be running an ignition controlled power source directly to the relay. Does this make sense or is the arrangement an accident waiting to happen?
Great information, thank you.
@OverlandBound should you fuse the white wires for all the 86 pins on the relays?
Wiring always scares a lot of people, and this is a good overview. One thing I noticed is I haven't seen fuse "boxes" or "Blocks" that have a ground wire. Typically a fuse block is simply distributing power from a larger circuit to various smaller circuits so no need for a ground. One other item that concerns me are those components seems to be amazon cheapies. I would recommend going with a little higher quality components. I but my components from ceautoelectricsupply.com I make no commision from any sale there but have always been satisfied with the quality and Customer service. If your project is still too intimidating he will build it custom for your application.
Thoughts on using relays that have fuses built into them? I've seen a few of those where you can just attach a fuse to the relay, rather than having a whole separate fuse box
I still don't understand specifically where he's connecting white wire, relay 86, into. Diagram indicates on (+) between 100A breaker and fuse block. Am I understanding that right? Then negative, relay 85, goes to switch (+) which grounds from there.
This is a fantastic video, I'm sure i'm just missing it somehow. First time I'm attempting this. Also, thank you for the dual battery video also. Starting that this weekend.
No water cover for all that fuse block, relay board? A lot of exposed wiring. Just curious on that decision
I'll get to it :)
Need a video on how you wired the switches.
Michael - Will you wire your power to the rear through here or put in another fuse panel in the rear?
Another fuse panel in back
Wire 86, how did you tie that one back into the positive?
See pinned comment!
Overland Bound I see it in image 2 & 3 but looking more specifically at how you tied it back into the fuse block for power.
i was wondering the same thing. did you route it to the blue seas fuse panel? is it fused?
what product did you use to waterproof the bus bar?
Hi sorry late to the party, I have read the comments but just want to clarify I have off road lights I plan on wiring through the gap in my lift gate. (2001 Montero Sport) I want o build this type of power block but the switches are a little confusing. All I would do is run one ground wire from each relay to each switch and then each switch to ground. So I complete the ground circuit for the relay which would then turn on each light? Do I have this right?
Do the diagram links in the description help - it includes a picture.
@@OverlandBound yes! I missed the one of the completed working distribution block. Thank you!
What are you using for the flagpole setup in the desert? I am looking for a leave no trace solution without having to try several different things myself to find something that works.
That’s something like this: www.displays2go.com/P-35260/Portable-Flag-Pole-Tailgater-s-Tire-Mount-Included?.pla&GooglePLA&gclid=CjwKCAjwkPX0BRBKEiwA7THxiCWjigRGVkJ_EdQpWUWNt-CEr-_Bq78ei3X1eECzZuRxOftBrTbyIRoC8GAQAvD_BwE
That is very helpful to me for my mind. You have a 100 amp breaker and i have been looking to buy one all i find are amps above and under 100amps but never 100amp. I am still learning. Is it safe to go higher or lower on the amp level on the breaker if so what would be your advice? Thank you guys for what you both do. Be safe take care
Hey boss I have a Toyota corolla 2t my inner relay block are rust is ther a way to fix it or can I use a normal Midas fuse box
Hi Michael, I sure enjoy your videos. This one in particular. I need to learn more about auto electric. I completely rewired my 69 Jeepster Commando and I still feel like I don't understand it.
Glad to help
Thanks it help a lot.
Could I wire my arb compressor to this? The wire harness it came with has a maxi fuse, would one of these with a regular size fuse work?
How are you connecting the white wires? Are they spliced together or connected separately? Where are the connected to? the fuse block? Where on the fuse block?
See pinned comment!
On Diagram 3 does that second power wire go to the rear of your vehicle to the BlueSea power panel from one of your other videos?
Can you run multiple grounds together, then ground them to the frame instead of individually?
I have one of my fans hooked up the ground way so my one wire runs to power and when my temp sensor in the manifold triggers on it kicks on
How would a switch work ? Doesn’t switches have 2 posts ?
If I have a 5 pin switch where do I connect the number 85?
how would I connect the white wire (assuming a smaller gauge wire) with the red wire coming directly from the battery's positive?
I'd connect it where the battery cable attaches to the fuse block.
@@OverlandBound 2 years later, i'm referring to the same video for a new rig! Although i do have a question; are your white wires daisy chained into the positive post on the fuse block??
@@j.salazar4676 Glad it’s helpful! That is correct.
after a long day of trial and error, and 4 blown fuses later. I just ended up rewiring my lights up with the factory wiring harness, from rigid. I must be doing something wrong.
Looks like your system is always hot, did I miss the ignition switch part?
Yup. Solenoid.
Could you use a on off on switch with this set up?
Are you running all the white to the power on the fuse block... sorry wiring confuses me
It confuses most of us! Yes, that is correct. Each relay has a white wire. Those are soldered together and go to the fuse block positive. I'll post a picture!
@@OverlandBoundawesome thanks, I've been wondering since the first video. Was trying to wrap my mind around it.
None of my 3 pin illumination switches work. Even when piggy backed. Is there a different illumination switch I can use?
@@orbelgalvarado it depends on the switch. The ones I am using light up. But some don’t. Sorry, it’s not the best answer but it’s just the way it is.
So just something that's confusing me (a mechanical engineer) is that a switch should only function if, when it's open, one side of the switch is a different voltage than the other. If they were the same voltage then when you connect the 2 sides together, then no current would flow and nothing would happen. So when you say the switch is "negative switched" and there are no hot wires in the cab, I'm not sure that is correct. But considering I'm not an electrical engineer, I could somehow be wrong. If someone knows more I'd like to know.
Check out the wiring diagrams in the description! You'll see how it works. Cheers!
Q1: if your switches are lighted, will the negatively wired switch still illuminate when turned on?
No. You'd need to power the illuminated switch.
they will if you piggy-back the incoming wire to the light terminal on the switch as well. the light and the switch both use the ground on the switch as a common ground so you don't have to ground each separately. :)
@@dobrzpe Will the lights dim and work as normal when wired this way? Thanks👍
Hey Michael, I built this and it’s awesome, only on problem, the switch panel I bought is lighted, so it doesn’t work. You were going to post a photo of the piggyback solution to lighted switches can you? Or maybe someone can offer advice without having to go with two prong switches,my hat work.
Got a love talk to text, sorry for the typos. It should’ve said without having to go to a two prong switch, that do work.
It’s not letting me respond to my original comment! I’d love to know what your power consumption/charge is on a normal weekend. Thanks for the response, always enjoy your videos and especially the short ones lately!
Won’t negatively switching increase corrosion on whatever body ground you use?
Not to my knowledge...but...
Thank you for adding the photo’s! That really helped out. Did you run into any issues with splicing all your white wires together incase you have to replace one?
I have not had any issue with it to date. Thank you!
So how did you wire the switches? Just a 2 pole switch to earth?
Is 6 AWG acceptable instead of 4 AWG to the Breaker and Then to the battery?
Where do you run the white wires to?
Here you go! Diagram 01: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse1.jpg
Diagram 02: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse2.jpg
Diagram 03: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse3.jpg
What gauge of wire did you use for your 100amp breaker?
Hi Michael, great video also the original on the relay board very professional looking! After reading comments maybe a actual mock up build to a lighted switch and a accessory would be more clear to some of the viewers ,especially the part about the piggy backing 86, just a thought. Just wondering are you close to the where you had your engine rebuilt?
Hi Chuck! Pretty close, yes - Top Shop Auto is about 20 minutes away in Lafayette, CA.
@@OverlandBound Oh cool we aren't that far from each other then Pinole, I have a sas 4runner 30 years old, did most of the work myself but really like your 80 series .
So do you power everything with only one battery?
I do for now. Good North Star AGM
Great video thanks! Hoping you go over adding the power cable to the rear of vehicle too, in reference to old video about add the ports. Simple enough to attach power to same source as fuse box?
You didnt show how your white cables are mounted to the main power or how you hid or capped off the (87a) yellow cable
Since you're not using the yellow wires, 87a, could you just remove them?
87a is useless just remove them.
Are you planning to show the wiring to the switch? I can get this far but I'm still a bit fuzzy on getting it to the switches.
Does this help? Diagram 01: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse1.jpg
Diagram 02: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse2.jpg
Diagram 03: overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse3.jpg
how do you wire accessories that you want to be turned on only when the ignition switch in on or in acc position?
I believe at this point your going to want to have a dual fuse board and run your accessory wire to the fuse board and from there run the same set up
Really confusing watched 3 times 🤷🏻♂️
Its all about the diagrams! You'll get it.
Yeah I agree, if the diagram could be animated to show the power traveling with the switch off/on it would help make it easier to understand i think.
Holy crap my head hurts to much info I think I need to watch this at least three more times then I will attempt to wire my sxs up
Unfortunately most lighted switches don’t light up when wired in the switched ground configuration.
they will if you piggy-back the incoming wire to the light terminal on the switch. the light and the switch both use the ground on the switch as a common ground so you don't have to ground each separately. :)
dobrzpe you mind elaborating a little with the diagrams 😅 or maybe use different wording. I get 30 is the 12v positive so that is one wire to the switch, then you’ve got the ground. The last wire I can’t figure out is the third accessory wire? (This is for light up rocker switches)
why are you grounding the fuse block? nothing there needs to be grounded according to your wiring diagram. just trying to help!
You are correct! It just provides a reliable negative ground source on the fuse block which has negative ground terminals. Nothing in this use case requires it.
Where does the white wire go?
See pinned comment!
@@OverlandBound Thank you, thank you thank you!! Lol, what an AHA moment.......
i dont understand why you need a relay, as well as fuse box ?
From the intertubes: www.onallcylinders.com/2015/01/02/relay-case-whys-hows-using-relays-automotive-wiring/
They do different jobs. Fuse box protects wires in the circuit from overloading, relay protects switch from overloading. That's my understanding at least.
OB1 link?
Just added!
Don’t understand where 86 out of the relays gets wired.
86 is power for the switch. it can be piggy backed off of the same wire feeding 30 OR run through it's own fuse on the fuse block. all it does is give power to the switch. it doesn't need to be a large wire and doesn't need to be super-high current power either. :)
Yup. What dobrzpe said! That's in diagram #2 showing the white wire going back to the + lead on the fuse block.
A lot of people have probly not messed with vehicles from the 60's or older. Switches back then were a lot bigger, wiring was bigger, and you had issues with high current equipment (blower motor, headlight switch) still getting wires hot. The relay came along and changed that. The power to operate a relay is minimal. I think I've read it's .02 amp for one of the Bosch style relays. What does this mean? A less heavy duty switch can be used. And smaller wiring can be used from the switch, to the relay.
I think we all know the real question is where did you get the shirt?
Heroes and Villains 😂 Super fun site to check out!
Would have been easier to get the Lynx system 🤔🤔
Not familiar with it. Solid state?
Why do you need a 100 amp breaker!
Wires 🤦🏻♂️. 😂
my head hurts
What just happened!
Whatcha mean Juan?
Great video Brother! It's not your video I just hate electrical anything.
Nice basic wiring