It's possible. You would have to get the eng model and find a parts list with the part number of the engine wire harness to see if there's diodes in it.
I didn’t know there was a kill wire on each “coil”, nor did I know this kill line had a rectifier diode in series with it. Now to find the specs on what this kill line diode is. That would be a kicker to find “it” is the problem instead of the Nikki carburetor needing a rebuild kit!
Each side has a diode to keep them from back feeding each other. So if one goes bad it won’t kill the other as well. Easier to diagnose the bad coil issue I guess.
@@smallequipmentmaintenancee3062, I’m going to remove the heat shrink tubing and get the part number off the diode. I’ll then look it up to see what it is. It can’t be anything special. That’s going into part of the world I retired from, looking up electronic parts. These are axial leaded units. The last parts I was replacing were surface mount units.
There was a video that showed when these diodes start to go bad they’ll start to cause the engine to die when they get hot. I’m experiencing this after about 30 minutes of use. True or not true??
Good work. A true mechanic.
This is the exact information I was looking for, thanks.
Thank you! I’ve had this problem for a year and couldn’t figure it out!
graphicsdude I’m glad it finally helped someone! Thanks!
Good information, can you give fuller details of the diodes you used
I don’t know a lot about them. I bought off amazon. 1AMP 400v rectifying diode is what I bought.
@@smallequipmentmaintenancee3062 thanks for info
For the diode for the coils
What is the part number that you ordered it at Amazon need the Amazon part number
My Scag with Kawasaki is doing exactly what you're describing. Do you happen to know if my set up is like your Briggs?
It's possible. You would have to get the eng model and find a parts list with the part number of the engine wire harness to see if there's diodes in it.
I didn’t know there was a kill wire on each “coil”, nor did I know this kill line had a rectifier diode in series with it. Now to find the specs on what this kill line diode is. That would be a kicker to find “it” is the problem instead of the Nikki carburetor needing a rebuild kit!
Each side has a diode to keep them from back feeding each other. So if one goes bad it won’t kill the other as well. Easier to diagnose the bad coil issue I guess.
@@smallequipmentmaintenancee3062, I’m going to remove the heat shrink tubing and get the part number off the diode. I’ll then look it up to see what it is. It can’t be anything special.
That’s going into part of the world I retired from, looking up electronic parts. These are axial leaded units. The last parts I was replacing were surface mount units.
@@jmikronis7376 I think I bought basic 1 amp diodes, that’s about the extent of my knowledge of them.
There was a video that showed when these diodes start to go bad they’ll start to cause the engine to die when they get hot. I’m experiencing this after about 30 minutes of use. True or not true??
That sound more like the coils have gone bad, usually from the motor overheating. Diode issues are usually immediate and continue untill fixed.
Great solution to solve a poor, shoddy engineering “solution!” No wonder B&S has been on the edge of bankruptcy for so long!