How To Change A Two Post Lift Cylinder
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you how to change your lift cylinders in your 2 post lift. This procedure should be the same for most 2 post lifts. You will need some hydraulic plugs and the hydraulic pump will do most of the work. Thanks for watching.
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The best way to change cylinders on a 2 post is to cap/plug one side off(cylinder and hose) and raise the lift with one cylinder, swap cylinders, lower the lift, hook everything up, bleed, repeat other side. No mess.
I cannot get to the fittings when the lift is lowered.
Cant you change both cylinders at the same time by raising to the very top lock, disconnecting both and removing them?
The plug they send is for the port in the actual cylinder where the fitting goes in not the hose
JIC is the hydraulic flare and the NPT is the cylinder threaded hole.
what size are the female and male plugs? thank you
What sizes were the plugs you use?
How long did this take you?
Disconnect your jic connectors install a short hose just pushed on a jic and r7n it in the bucket. You can even run the lift pump with the supply hose in the bucket and empty it
Guys, in his install video he used compressed air to run the lift up. (Not recommended....)Then as soon as the lift is put into service not only dose one hydro cylinder have a leak, but both do.... I’d bet if BendPak knew the whole story they would have denied this warranty claim.
I have a BendPak XPR-9S and it’s been flawless. Also their customer service has been great when I’ve had questions.
If air caused my problem, why are my new replacements leaking as well?
Why isn't air recommend? The cylinders had residual oil in them from assembly. You can't put a hydraulic piston into a cylinder without lubing the piston because you will tear up the O-rings on the piston. The O-rings had lubrication from assembly.
Nothing wrong with using compressed shop air at about 125 psi on a system that handles thousands of psi of hydraulic fluid.
I haven't seen any details on the male/female plugs necessary to start this repair.
I just got my brand new 2 post bendpak installed and the installer already noticed a leaky cylinder, I wonder if this is a common problem. Was going to swap it out myself, but I will have them swap it out under warrantee instead. Stupid Bendpak should be do better quality control before shipping out their products.
After watching your videos I have decided NOT to buy a bendpak lift. Not only are they way overpriced for a chinese made lift but their customer service sucks. It was beat up when you got it and you should not have to replace anything with that new of a lift. Thank you for the videos. You have been a great help.
What kind of cylinders are used in 2 post car lifts ? Are those plunger cylinders or classic single acting cylinders ?
Hey I’m not sure if I missed one of your videos but what lead you to the point of having to swap out the cylinders? I have a repair shop the lift gets used every single day all day I have the XPR10s Same as yours but symmetrical. Just recently started having issues with the non-motor side cylinder not raising as quickly as the motor side cylinder. The carriages raise equally because the equalizer cables are perfect If I bleed the lift every single day for a while the lift operates fine till I come in the next morning I stopped using the lift I contact bendpak. Lift is only seven months old but probably has more use than what a guy in his private garage will have in five years. Bendpack is working with me they’re looking for somebody local to send out to take a look at it but I still trying to figure it out myself. Can you please go into detail as to what lead you to diagnose bad cylinders. Thank you
Mine leaked around the dust seal at the bottom. When the lift was fully raised you could see drips of fluid forming at the endcap of the cylinder. If I wiped it off it would come back in a few days. Bendpak wanted pictures to verify the leaks. I did not show it because, I didn't want someone screenshoting the video and trying to get free cylinders.
It sounds like you may have an internal leak passed the seals on the cylinder piston. If it only affects one side it can't be an issue with the power unit or the other cylinder. If you don't have any external leaks, it can only be one thing, an internal leak in the cylinder. That is my best judgement using what I know from your symptom.
Repair Geek yes that’s why I was looking up videos of the cylinders. We’ll bendpak is supposed to call me back soon to have someone come out and look at it. I had to use the lift today and it acts 100% normal loaded with a car on it. But if I run it up empty that’s when I’m seeing my issues. I really don’t remember it doing it before. I’m glad they are working with me but I can’t shut my lift down and it’s been 2 days already
ramar492 let me know what the diagnosis is. It seems like an odd problem for sure.
I have the very same issue with my lift. The pump side cylinder raises faster than the opposite side. The cables pull it up but I can see slack in the chain and when I release the up button the rack drops quicker than normal to either the lock or to a point both cylinders are equal
I removed the hose and found a spring and a cap on it coming out of the port the hose connected to....I think it is a safety valve ...not sure...Amy idea why a spring is in the port ?
I do not understand the following:
When raising the lift, I have NO problem with the safety lock going in and out of the safety slots. Even though I have studied your videos in great depth...........
My problem is when lowering the lift. Do you have to hold the safety lock in the unlock position as long as the lift is going down. Or is there some kind of "hold" that keeps the safety lock lever from going back into the next safety slot?
Please explain this to me.
Thanks a lot.
The safety release must be held in the entire time the lift is being lowered. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense now.
Great video! Thank you.
When I received my XPR-10AS there were a couple of noticeable differences. First, no relay in the pump power connection box even though the back for it was in the bottom of that box. Bendpak said they have different versions that go out.
Second, there are clamps on the hydraulic cylinders and I cannot find documentation as to whether those stay or come off? I wish I could post pictures. I also notice that you have plates at the top of your cylinders.....I do not. Weird?
The clamps are the replacement for the plate caps he had in this video. They used to be a flat piece of metal. It’s only intention is to reduced sliding of the carriage during shipment. They stoped using the flat pieces because it was through the bleeder screw and moved to the hose clamp to reduce movement during shipment. Both are intended to be removed before use and serve no purpose outside of shipping.
Really disappointing that you had to change both rams in such a short period of time and with only domestic use. This is not wear and tear but a manufacturing defect plain and simple. Sorry to mention this but what's the betting that the replacements will leak also???? Love your videos - really honest appraisal.
I completely agree it's a manufacturing issue. I'm going to make a review video soon. That's the biggest advantage to a small channel, I can give my honest opinion with no repercussions. I'm not sponsored I paid for this myself. So, if Bendpak doesn't like my opinion then, they need to improve their product. My review isn't all bad. I try and keep an honest opinion.
I currently have a car on my bendpak two post lift, same model as yours. The seal blew out and I’m considering options as I can’t raise or lower the car. Do you think it’s possible to replace the ram with the car fully lifted?
If the car is on the locks, it shouldn't move. Put the car on the locks, take the hose off the bad cylinder and try to retract the cylinder. It should come out the bottom like what I did here. Install the new cylinder, hook up the hose and hit the button to extend it. If the carriage is completely up and locked the car shouldn't move. The biggest challenge I see is getting the old cylinder retracted so it can be removed.
👍
How were you able to get the carriages off the locks? I have my cylinder in, but it will not lift high enough to lift the carriages off the locks. In fact they are about 1/2” from the bottom of the carriages. (air has been bleed as far as I can tell, and tank is full of fluid)
I used a floor jack & raised my arms until I could unclick the stops
@@billjones2005 Thanks for the reply. I dont remember how I finished this repair.
@@relmdrifter - just today - a young buddy came by & threw a chain & chain hoist crank over the top & raised it another 6" so I could get my rams out (the flat plate inside that holds the top of the ram - was too low & I could not get the ram out at a angle - he raised it more & that flat plate rose & then top of ram fell out of plate & hole - @ 68 - I couldn't do it alone with no experience) Thanks for your part !!!!
This is a direct drive lift. MOST lifts are NOT direct drive. My guess is a piece of dirt got in the cylinder / seal and caused a leak. MOST the time you can flush out the dirt or replace the seal. It is very rare that a newer lift requires a cylinder replacement. Also we do NOT replace cylinders using this method. YES, we also have lift service and repair youtube videos. We have been doing this since 1987.
This was the procedure that a technician at BendPak told me over the phone. BendPak never mentioned just replacing seals but, like you said I'm sure that's all that's wrong. They offered to send cylinders so I wasn't going to say no.
You guys have a lot of good content. You should shoot a cylinder replacement video. Thanks for commenting.
I do not see a video on removing and installing cylinders on your channel. You claim not to use this method to replace a cylinder, but have offered no help in the matter. Please point me in the right direction if I am wrong.
Also as of this year (don’t know when it started) bendpak does not make a seal kit for these cylinder. They just recommended I take it to a hydraulic repair shop.
Toolsplususa? What are you talking about most lifts are not direct drive? Where are you guys located? Your name suggests USA but in the US direct drive is the standard. You have to go to Europe to see acme screw and other drive systems?
They make jic male and female caps and plugs.
Unfortunately my cylinder leaked upon installation and I’m going to have to wait over a month for a cylinder. I won’t buy bendpak again and cannot recommend them.
Can you do a how to adjust cables
Theo Bommer
th-cam.com/video/RbfQ1QNsEUk/w-d-xo.html
Check the video at 54:35
Bendpak is not very specific about what fluid to use, suggesting ATF or hydraulic oil. I think most ATFs have a low viscosity and are more prone to cylinder leaks possibly. So maybe a farm or tractor type gear oil more akin to an engine oil may be better suited to a lift and less caustic to seals. The only functional difference might be a slower unweighted lowering of the lift, which is not a big deal.I have used Traveller tractor supply universal premium 10/30 hydraulic oil without problems, but any similar oil would be fine. These oils are used in most off highway tractors, backhoes, skid steers excavators etc. These usually get thousands of hours of continuous use without failures and usually the hoses break long before cylinders go bad.
AW-32 or 46 is best, depending on your climate. And it should say that in the book, unless that’s been removed recently. I wouldn’t suggest anything thicker. The tractor stuff will work, but will adventually do harm to the power unit. It’s designed to move at a smother rate of speed. It’s a small HP motor, me reason to over work it and slow raising and lowering speeds (it will slow it down loaded, not just unloaded) ATF is used in a lot of cases because it’s the same weight and other manufacturers suggest it, but it has detergents in it and some lifts will have leaking issues with it breaking down their cheap valve body O-rings and hoses. Some lift motors will have “No ATF” with the circle and a line through it on the box of the power unit.
Really sucks you had to replace the Lift Cylinders. We ordered one, its different from your lift, XPS-9s. It's a shorty lift, pillars are 9.5 feet or 133 inches to accommodate the ceiling height, symmetrical lift with a floor plate. I haven't seen any leaks yet, You bet I'll be checking. (in probably 5 mins lol) From what I gather bendpak has pretty decent customer service. Our lift came damaged from shipping, scratches and a few gouges, one of the bendpak stickers were shaved off from being scraped down the side.(the sticker was very noticeable) They sent a new sticker but it was the wrong one, they sent me touch up spray paint but I didn't want spray paint because of over spray everywhere. For my troubles they sent me a free 9 Gal portable oil drain along with the correct sticker. (which was surprising) Overall the 9s is pretty decent, however I won't lie and say the whole process of receiving it was kind of a pain in the ass but we needed the lift. Not so much the installation as it was we took off work the scheduled delivery day thinking it would come early in the day and it didn't come until after 6pm, the whole day waiting was murder. They wouldn't give us an exact delivery time other than that day 9am-5pm (they even missed their delivery time) The shipping company was ABF. We offloaded it with a big tractor that had forks we borrowed. Great video thanks.
The lift showing up with damage seems to be a widespread issue. All it would take is a redesign of the shipping crate. My cylinders leaked on the bottom side around the dust seal area. So keep an eye on it. I have a theory about Bendpaks awesome customer service. I believe they make so much money on these lifts that they don't care about shipping you paint, stickers, cylinders, etc. It's cheaper to ship replacement parts for free than to employ a higher level of quality control.
I went through the same thing with my delivery. They told me they would show up between 9am and 3pm. It came around noon but I still had to take off work.
Tend to agree with you. Would love to know how much these lifts cost considering that they are shipped all the way from China. Such a shame that the are no longer made with pride in the USA. Unfortunately just about everything is made in China these days. I suspect that Bendpak are not losing out because the Chinese factory will take the hit on replacement parts.
actually you should slow down and just read my comment. I was explaining and overall experience, not that you noticed.
I'm more concerned about the header above the window. Missing something?
I had the Amish frame it. That wall isn't load bearing. It passed building inspection. It's probably not correct but, I'm no carpenter.
I'm sure it's ok but I like to put a piece of osb and another board. I hate seeing the studs only be halfway on the header
@@RepairGeek Hope this doesn't offend anyone, but just like any other contractor, you gotta shop around for the best. I have seen Amish work that is very shoddy. The worst was a cabin that the Amish wired for 120v!
@@chrisE815 I hear ya. My main problem was getting a contractor to show up when they said they would. I'm not going to say my guys were the most precise but, they did what they said they would, when they said they would do it, and for the amount that I was quoted. That alone has a value.
I waited on one moron for 6 months before he said he couldn't do it. Hell of a nice guy, he waited until November to let me know. Nothing like starting construction in January in Ohio.
@@RepairGeekAbsolutely... Sounds like normal contractor drama! I'm in the North East, so I'm loving the warm weather lately... It's always nice to bang out a project scheduled for spring during winter.
Woooh dude who’s the farmer that built your garage? I hope the entire house isn’t frame like that ..
I am in process of installing a new purchase XPR-10AS, If yours is like mine, and if anyone cares, I can tell you why cylinders are leaking. BendPak does not seem to care. Repair Geek, if I'm right I suspect your new cylinders are leaking by now.
Why do they leak?
@@Abesta83 I believe mine would have. If I had installed the NPT fitting they provided into the cylinder port which I believe was BST. Anyone who has tried (on purpose or by accident) knows, you can connect a NPT standard thread to a BST standard thread. Threads are same pitch so I'll go with a little effort. But threads are different angle so it wont seal. It will hold, but it wont seal. Whatever the threads were, they did not match. I was disappointed that BendPak did not want to discuss mismatched threads. They were ok with cross threaded (even though the NPT plugs I removed from the cylinders were galled, not cross threaded; if you know what to look for, the difference is obvious). HOWEVER I must add, Bendpak was very quick to replace my cross threaded cylinders with new ones. The new ones were correct and the installation competed. I only wanted to let them know they had an issue with these threads, in my humble opinion. The one thing they wanted to know was, what color ribbon was on the cylinder? Originals had an bright orange ribbon around them. When I saw the green ribbon on the replacements, that answered it for me, they knew and it's fixed. Did I say I really like the lift? I do.
@@wdsj7265 I will say this, I’ve installed BendPak products for over 11 years now. They only had orange bands for about a year and they were very faulty. Across all products, I noticed Orange to be hit and miss on working out of the box on the day of install. The older stuff was red or yellow, even some blue on other models. The newer stuff is orange and green. I’ve only had issues with the orange bands. I’m not sure who they were using during that time frame but it was obviously not going through the standard for quality control like in the past. They have several piston providers. That way they can force the price down and also not run into shortages because they come from separate places. The reason for the colors is so they know which seal kit is inside for rebuild and warranty reasons. I’ve had some in the past come with two different color bands between the two sides. When they’re being packaged the team just grabs two pistons so who knows what’s going in there? Outside of that band you don’t know until you rip it apart and see what type of seals inside. I hate when I have a rebuild and the bands been removed either it being old or the customer takes it off. That can add time to the rebuild if we don’t have the kit in stock. Normally I’ll write it down on the install manual in big sharpie, the year, number code and color of the band so if it goes missing we at least have a heads start.
First what you want to do is NEVER BUY A BENPAK LIFT. Forward or Rotary are the ones you want
Opps!! Well I'm not buying Benpack
you dont have to change piston you just need a seal kit
When Bendpak sends me an entire cylinder because this was under warranty, I'm changing the whole cylinder.
This hose coming from power pack..
My husband totally agreed with needing a female pipe plug. 🤣😂🤐
He meant for my mouth!!
Sorry, but they will always leak through the top vents. Just the design of the cylinder. 1 to 2 drops in a week? Really. Get over it already. Put a line in the vent on top of the cylinder and tie it to your reservoir tank, in 10 to 20 years it will start to drain back into your tank.
BendPak is known for idiots in their parts dept. and or tech support as you have found out.
MOST in the repair industry do not even bother with them unless a last resort and that is very rare!
They know little to nothing about their own product.
Not meant as an insult to you, BUT Only newbies deal with BP, or home/ back yard mechanics only because they do not have the experience in the repair field which is natural.
Trust me and many others in the repair industry when I say stay away from Parts dept and tech support! Worst ever by far.
BY the way, next time plug the hose at the POWER unit (unless the tee is halfway up the inside of the carriage on the power unit side). It will be much easier if you ever have to do this again. Plug at power unit side, raise lift to desired height and then you will have plenty of room to remove the hose you are trying to plug.
And yes, most of the time I use a female JIC plug to try to limit the amount of oil that comes out from the cylinder (if I have the right size at the time, LOL).
Otherwise I just make a mess and clean up afterwards.
You did a GREAT job for someone with no Lift repair experience.
Just some info to make it easier for you, Tom in NV.
Does anyone have a good video on how to replace the slider/rub blocks