Good morning early Gord. Great video and interesting too. You're doing a great job getting all that figured out. Whose the boss? I'll write you. Stay safe and keep up the good work. Fred.
I have come to the conclusion that you Gord are a Rennaisance Man. You're into so many different things with different teachings or methods. Very enjoyable to watch. Take care young man. God Bless.
Nice video Gord - you have it down pat, my eyes aren't the best to notice the aspect stretch of 2% to 5%, good to have the Boss to check the work lol. I think I'm ready to send you a email. Cheers and have a great week. Pete
Gord, thanks for all your research! Just subscribed to your channel. I like the way you explain things. Question for you, are you using the 30 watt Bolt and a 2 or 2.5” lens? I have a 80 watt Boss. I’m surprised at your settings 600/70. Everything I’ve read uses 400/40. Have you tried running slower? Thanks!
Good day and welcome - thanks for subscribing. I am using the 1.5" - yes , I saw that others offered that and started at 400mm as well a couple months ago, but over time testing different settings, I went from 400 mm to 600 mm now with excellent results (as shown). I still notice that similar to 400mm setting, some colours need either more or less power (sometimes I use 80% power) or a little extra cleaning - but 600mm settings are coming out great. Yes it is a 30W Bolt. Let me know how it works out for you. Thanks again and good luck!
Gord, all you're asking for mathematically is to convert chord length to arc length. Use this online calculator to account for the horizontal stretch of the logo. Whether or not you see it as skewed is completely dependent upon the ratio of the mug diameter to the logo width. You only need to enter 2 values into the calculator. Enter the diameter of your mug for "Diameter" & enter your original, unskewed logo width for "Chord Length." It will automatically calculate everything else. The "Arc Length" value is your new, stretched logo width.
Interesting problem that I wouldn't have even anticipated. I'm impressed by the software's capability to deal with it, although I assume this challenge came up early in the development. Hey, looks like you have more tumblers now than we do. My wife the marketing communications expert gets free tchotchkes like this sent to her every month. No more cabinet space for them. LOL
Hi G.P. Just a suggestion have you thought of maybe measuring where you are going to engrave and say it’s 2.5 inches make it 2.5%? I know nothing about it but I thought about it while you were speaking
Morning Ronald. That is interesting. I was thinking about seeing if that math works out. But have not put pen to paper. It might work. I know a couple of folks move the decimal over from the diameter ( ie 3.2" diameter, they use 0.32 and add it) but their results still look like the top and bottom of the circle looks flattened to me. Thanks Ron!
When I engrave on a Tumblr stainless steel it don’t come out shiny it’s like a dark gray color instead of the shiny stainless steel why is that do you know?
Good morning Brenda. Is it a powder coated stainless steel tumbler or is it a painted tumbler or is it plain stainless steel (with no coating)? you can email me- lasernug at gmail dot com.
@@BrendaDavis-1963 Hey Brenda, I am not familiar with Diode Lasers, but generally, I would think that your Power setting is too high for the speed. Assuming you have the correct focal distance, I would offer that perhaps you keep testing with lower power settings until you see that the Powder coat is not being fully removed and then play with a higher speed and then increase the power each timeI am sorry I can not help further. :)
@ yeah I did. I’m a material test on an old practice Tumblr so I had it. I was engraving at 2080 power test said 1200 speed and 10% power and it came out shiny it was perfect so it’s important to do material test.
Just Curious, how did you determine what Object Diameter to use in the Rotary Setup Menu? Preferrably the straight taper example at 14.02 time in video. Thanks
Hey good day and thanks for the question. You may find a different approach works but I use the diameter at the top of the tumbler (because I believe the rotary/lightburn will use the biggest diameter to adjust the Steps Per Rotation) to input to the Rotary Setup Menu. When I use the Taper Warp, I use the top of where the "design" is going to engrave, and I use the bottom of the "design" spot for the bottom measurement( not the bottom of the tumbler diameter). So far it works well for me. Hope that helps?
@LaserNUG thanks for your quick response, really appreciate it. So you used top of the tumbler for your object diameter for the rotary setup where its largest on the tumbler (in your example), then for the taper warp measurements you used only the area on the tumbler where the engraving will be? If im reading and watching right.
@@Fabhouseperformance Yes I think you got it. So, I know I talk too much sometimes (LOL) but here is what I believe is correct, and therefore, what I do. Separate two things: 1) Your Rotary device is a stepper-motor- it needs the diameter at the biggest point on the tumbler (usually the top which is gripped closest to the stepper motor) to calculate how fast to turn as the tumbler as it gets engraved (Steps Per Rotation of the cylinder/tumbler). 2) Taper Warp: (Assume the "engraveable space is 6" from the top to the bottom of the tumbler).Assume your design is 3" in length ( from top to bottom) You measure the diameter at the top of where the "Design" will start engraving and the diameter at the bottom of where the "design" will finish engraving. (not the bottom diameter of the tumbler itself because your design is not engraving at the bottom of the tumbler (as an example). If you input the diameter of the bottom of the tumbler and the top of the tumbler - example- it is 6" between the two points, but your design will engrave in a 3" section, then you will skew the Taper Warp adjustments because the Taper Warp is adjusting based on the engraveable Design area . Hope that helps. :))
@@LaserNUG Awesome, yep i think i understand now. Again thanks for the help. Ive been trying to get a response from facebook groups and lightburn forum, but nothing. Earned another subscriber! subscribing now!
Thank you so much for this video! I have my library downloaded in LB for the Bolt....but all I have is "tumbler engrave". Did you have to input Powder Coat on your own? Thank you!!
Hi Kerrie. You bet! I did add it. And as I continue finding new materials settings, I have been adding them to it as well. That way I don't have to search back through my notebook. LOL. I have not added an Art library yet but will be adding it soon. Have a great weekend!
So it looks like there is a formula between the diameter of the round logo and the diameter of the cylinder being engraved. 7% for big logos (closer to the diameter of the tumbler) looks good. The smaller the logo the smaller the stretch required if at all. Thanks for this 🙌 just a quick question - on a taper, is your focal height in the middle of the logo or at the biggest diameter of the object you’re engraving?
Good morning - that's a good question - I focus around the middle of the design area ( not necessarily the biggest part of the design) but more to the middle of the height of where it will sit
Morning Stephen. Great question. I tested the circular logo several times with and without taper Warp. If i don't add the width increase, even with the Taper Warp, the circle still would not look like a circle so I still have to add a % to the width. Test it out (Taper warp with and without the added width adjustment) and let me know how it turned out for you. Have a great weekend!
Good morning early Gord. Great video and interesting too. You're doing a great job getting all that figured out. Whose the boss? I'll write you. Stay safe and keep up the good work. Fred.
LOL! Morning Fred. Carol has to give it a thumbs up for sure. :)) Thanks - look forward to it. Have a great day!
I have come to the conclusion that you Gord are a Rennaisance Man. You're into so many different things with different teachings or methods. Very enjoyable to watch. Take care young man. God Bless.
Cheers Jerome! and thanks very kindly. :)
So helpful! Excellent experiments,
Morning Ross!
I love your videos. It's like I am talking/thinking to myself! Always helpful.
LOL! Morning Nancy! Thanks - Have a great day!
Thanks very interesting how the different settings (measurements) make the Logo look difference never would have thought about it.
Nice video Gord - you have it down pat, my eyes aren't the best to notice the aspect stretch of 2% to 5%, good to have the Boss to check the work lol. I think I'm ready to send you a email. Cheers and have a great week. Pete
Morning Pete! That would be great - thanks!
on a 3.125" skinny, 5% on a 2.5" logo worked perfectly!
Thanks for sharing it Nancy! It is helpful for me and will be for others too. :))
Gord, thanks for all your research! Just subscribed to your channel. I like the way you explain things. Question for you, are you using the 30 watt Bolt and a 2 or 2.5” lens? I have a 80 watt Boss. I’m surprised at your settings 600/70. Everything I’ve read uses 400/40. Have you tried running slower? Thanks!
Good day and welcome - thanks for subscribing. I am using the 1.5" - yes , I saw that others offered that and started at 400mm as well a couple months ago, but over time testing different settings, I went from 400 mm to 600 mm now with excellent results (as shown). I still notice that similar to 400mm setting, some colours need either more or less power (sometimes I use 80% power) or a little extra cleaning - but 600mm settings are coming out great. Yes it is a 30W Bolt. Let me know how it works out for you. Thanks again and good luck!
Professor!!! Great teaching skills😊 thanks!.. Is little Gord working with you ?
Good morning Mike! Hey, can you email me at gordpotter55 at gmail dot com. Thanks!
Gord, all you're asking for mathematically is to convert chord length to arc length.
Use this online calculator to account for the horizontal stretch of the logo.
Whether or not you see it as skewed is completely dependent upon the ratio of the mug diameter to the logo width.
You only need to enter 2 values into the calculator. Enter the diameter of your mug for "Diameter" & enter your original, unskewed logo width for "Chord Length." It will automatically calculate everything else. The "Arc Length" value is your new, stretched logo width.
omnicalculator
C o m
/math/arc-length
Good morning and thanks very much for the idea. I will take a look at this today for sure. Cheers!
Interesting problem that I wouldn't have even anticipated. I'm impressed by the software's capability to deal with it, although I assume this challenge came up early in the development.
Hey, looks like you have more tumblers now than we do. My wife the marketing communications expert gets free tchotchkes like this sent to her every month. No more cabinet space for them. LOL
LOL! Cheers Stan!
Hi G.P. Just a suggestion have you thought of maybe measuring where you are going to engrave and say it’s 2.5 inches make it 2.5%? I know nothing about it but I thought about it while you were speaking
Morning Ronald. That is interesting. I was thinking about seeing if that math works out. But have not put pen to paper. It might work. I know a couple of folks move the decimal over from the diameter ( ie 3.2" diameter, they use 0.32 and add it) but their results still look like the top and bottom of the circle looks flattened to me. Thanks Ron!
When I engrave on a Tumblr stainless steel it don’t come out shiny it’s like a dark gray color instead of the shiny stainless steel why is that do you know?
Good morning Brenda. Is it a powder coated stainless steel tumbler or is it a painted tumbler or is it plain stainless steel (with no coating)? you can email me- lasernug at gmail dot com.
Also, what kind of laser are you using?
@ I have the Mecpowxpro 4 22 watt
@@BrendaDavis-1963 Hey Brenda, I am not familiar with Diode Lasers, but generally, I would think that your Power setting is too high for the speed. Assuming you have the correct focal distance, I would offer that perhaps you keep testing with lower power settings until you see that the Powder coat is not being fully removed and then play with a higher speed and then increase the power each timeI am sorry I can not help further. :)
@ yeah I did. I’m a material test on an old practice Tumblr so I had it. I was engraving at 2080 power test said 1200 speed and 10% power and it came out shiny it was perfect so it’s important to do material test.
I am using bolt and lightburn but don’t have taper wrap option. 😢
Good morning! Just curious - are you running v1.7.03 of Lightburn? It should be there in the "Laser Tools" drop down menu?
Just Curious, how did you determine what Object Diameter to use in the Rotary Setup Menu? Preferrably the straight taper example at 14.02 time in video. Thanks
Hey good day and thanks for the question. You may find a different approach works but I use the diameter at the top of the tumbler (because I believe the rotary/lightburn will use the biggest diameter to adjust the Steps Per Rotation) to input to the Rotary Setup Menu. When I use the Taper Warp, I use the top of where the "design" is going to engrave, and I use the bottom of the "design" spot for the bottom measurement( not the bottom of the tumbler diameter). So far it works well for me. Hope that helps?
@LaserNUG thanks for your quick response, really appreciate it. So you used top of the tumbler for your object diameter for the rotary setup where its largest on the tumbler (in your example), then for the taper warp measurements you used only the area on the tumbler where the engraving will be? If im reading and watching right.
@@Fabhouseperformance Yes I think you got it. So, I know I talk too much sometimes (LOL) but here is what I believe is correct, and therefore, what I do. Separate two things: 1) Your Rotary device is a stepper-motor- it needs the diameter at the biggest point on the tumbler (usually the top which is gripped closest to the stepper motor) to calculate how fast to turn as the tumbler as it gets engraved (Steps Per Rotation of the cylinder/tumbler). 2) Taper Warp: (Assume the "engraveable space is 6" from the top to the bottom of the tumbler).Assume your design is 3" in length ( from top to bottom) You measure the diameter at the top of where the "Design" will start engraving and the diameter at the bottom of where the "design" will finish engraving. (not the bottom diameter of the tumbler itself because your design is not engraving at the bottom of the tumbler (as an example). If you input the diameter of the bottom of the tumbler and the top of the tumbler - example- it is 6" between the two points, but your design will engrave in a 3" section, then you will skew the Taper Warp adjustments because the Taper Warp is adjusting based on the engraveable Design area . Hope that helps. :))
@@LaserNUG Awesome, yep i think i understand now. Again thanks for the help. Ive been trying to get a response from facebook groups and lightburn forum, but nothing. Earned another subscriber! subscribing now!
Thank you so much for this video! I have my library downloaded in LB for the Bolt....but all I have is "tumbler engrave". Did you have to input Powder Coat on your own? Thank you!!
Hi Kerrie. You bet! I did add it. And as I continue finding new materials settings, I have been adding them to it as well. That way I don't have to search back through my notebook. LOL. I have not added an Art library yet but will be adding it soon. Have a great weekend!
So it looks like there is a formula between the diameter of the round logo and the diameter of the cylinder being engraved. 7% for big logos (closer to the diameter of the tumbler) looks good. The smaller the logo the smaller the stretch required if at all. Thanks for this 🙌 just a quick question - on a taper, is your focal height in the middle of the logo or at the biggest diameter of the object you’re engraving?
Good morning - that's a good question - I focus around the middle of the design area ( not necessarily the biggest part of the design) but more to the middle of the height of where it will sit
They need to word it as measurements of the design area, not the length of the tumbler or item being engraved.
It looks like you have added 10% to the width, then the taper warp is adding a bit more. Why did you add 10% first?
Morning Stephen. Great question. I tested the circular logo several times with and without taper Warp. If i don't add the width increase, even with the Taper Warp, the circle still would not look like a circle so I still have to add a % to the width. Test it out (Taper warp with and without the added width adjustment) and let me know how it turned out for you. Have a great weekend!
I added 5% with warp, 6% with warp and 0% with warp and we came to the same conclusion. The Boss and I both liked the 5% but 6% was close.
@@StevenTindell Good stuff Steven!