Another great video Adam, I love it when you are measuring up the piece and then out comes "Grandad's micrometer" or "Dad's old ...." it really adds that touch of providence to your work and shows the pedigree of your family. You really are a pleasure and delight to follow mate
Am a maintenance mechanic by profession and do a little of everything: welding, machining, plumbing and electrical. Have two Bridgeport clones, a small Clausing and 15x 60 Lansing lathe, and OLD Brown & Sharpe No. 5 grinder at my disposal. Have learned a Lot by watching your channel for couple of years. BIG FAN!!!
You should inscribe those washers with your name and date so in 70 years the next person can tell when the original repair was made. Great work. My wife and I love to watch you videos because you are a natural in front of the camera and your camera angles give much context to your explanations. Keep up the good work and God Bless you.
abom, you never cease to amaze me with all your knowledge, both as a machinist and a video producer! i havent seen a video youve made where ive lost interest! as long as you keep making videos, ill keep watching :)
Hi Adam, yeah, that "I don't know where I put it down" thing happens in my home & shop so much, it explains why I have multiples of things located in various rooms so I can always find one with ease!! Nice repair!!
Lol Same thing happens to me. Be alone sitting on the ground working, lay a tool down and it magically teleports 20 feet under a box or something as soon as you take your eyes off it.
Engraving machines from WWII era had bronze thrust washers on all three axes inside and outside to be replaced as needed which explains how I could use them in the 1980's-90's-2000's. America's preeminence in precision machining was what propelled the winning of that war,and all subsequent decades of prosperity.
There is nothing about what you do for fun or for a living that doesn't fascinate the shit out of me. I could watch you all day sir... (And when I was binge-ing your channel back in the day that was exactly what I was doing.) Zero regrets on that
15.32 "put an angle on it aswell so that it parts the piece off and leaves the nub on the material", aahh, that is the gem for me, just about to grind a set of tools make a set of parts and that is something I have not come across before and will be so useful. Thank you so much, looking forward to working that out.
Great job Adam - I did wonder if punching out 'washers' from sheet shim material might have done but still - super fix - worth keeping lubed now I reckon.
Adam, your videos are the best, thanks for sharing, ow the anticipation is killin’ me to see your G&E Shaper running and the step down installed and seeing it being used.!.!.!.
It is easy to set a tool or a part down and completely forget where it is. Like you, it is so nice owning some of my grandad's measuring instruments, tool bits, his lathe and his drill press. He worked as a machinist and at home as well, just as you do, after he retired.
Excellent modification. I like the way that you’re keeping the machine as original as possible. It would have been tempting to add thrust roller bearings, but this is, to my mind, the better way.
Funny how we shoot for making a certain part one way and we end up with another like your perfect Belleville Washer that works perfect for your situation!
Hey Adam, check the washing machine, dryer or your clean pants for the key. Looking forward to the nut and final assembly of that part. No kidding about where to find the key; we used to lose change and found it one of those three places (washers, nuts and even dollar bills, too!), Greg.
Nice job! I used to have to make spacers for the electron microscope Wehnelt cylinder that were less the 1mm thick. I had to always make them about 3 mm and then sand them down to thickness. I made a jig for the belt sander to get them parallel to the belt surface and glued them to a stub to sand. I love to see bronze being machined, especially with a sharp tool like that! Thanks.
Looks done right now, looks like it should have been made with bronze replaceable bushes in the first place, but then given its nigh 70 years old maybe not eh! This whole head restoration is going to make the shaper I think, I was itching to tear it down. Well done Adam.
Excellent choice, The bronze thrust washers should serve you well it is the best choice for high pressure and slow revolutions.. They will require frequent or constant lubrication. Great engineering!
Hi Adam, this is like Christmas morning for me... I just can't wait until you've completed the repairs. I'm so much looking forward to seeing the alterations work and watch the G&E perform without that 'climbing' at the start of a deep cut! Best of luck buddy, I hope it exceeds your expectations.
Hi Adam, Big Fan of your stuff! For thin washers and the like, take a look at Chris's work over on Clickspring. I use his "superglue jig" all the time and it works great.
I just loved this video Adam, personally I'd have removed a little bit more steel from the leadscrew, so that i could have slightly thicker washers , but the bell in the 20 though one actually helps the process as it puts a preload into the unit, thus as the locknut is snugged up any backlash is totally eliminated. Nice job my son I can hear your dad and grandad saying. And by the way loved seeing you use your Grandad's Starrett special micrometer
What you're seeing is caused by the 'web' of the drill trying to cut the material, and having trouble doing it. If he would have drilled a shallow hole with a center drill, that 'walking' would not have happened.
Cool vid Adam. Was thinking, could you “reinforce” the super thin washer by supergluing a heavier/thicker washer to the front of the stock you’re parting off? That way it would kinda act like a thicker washer as you parted it off then you could heat it and pop the thin washer off the other piece
Hey Adam , just a tip I've never seen you do . When you have a smaller part that you are cleaning up by hand on a large flat surface when polishing or cleaning up by hand use a figure 8 rubbing pattern and that will keep the part from sanding or polishing by hand from taking material off one side . The figure 8 pattern will put the same pressure on all edges so you dont make a wedge or off flat part . If that makes sense .
I had some similar fits making 0.023" thick bronze washers. I tried quite a few things before figuring out a recipe that worked. That recipe for me was a fresh carbide insert in my Kennametal parting tool, with the angled insert having the extended point on the right side (the shape that minimizes the tit on the parted part). Using the power feed set to a brisk pace diving into the part. Oh, and using WD-40 as a cutting fluid seems to help (or maybe it's just something to keep me busy while the feed does all the work). I could never get flat washers using my HSS parting tool, no matter how I ground it. Also I couldn't get flat washers without the brisk power feed even using the fresh insert in my Kennametal tool. Manually driving the cross slide, or using a comfortably slow power feed just never worked. Now that I have that recipe, I can churn those washers out by the hundreds.
Very well done, Could I offer an idea. If the washer needs to be replced in the future for a thinner one I would Part it off thicker than needed, sperglue or shellac the parted piece back to the bar stock, face that off to required thickness then gently heat it up a little so the new washer comes off without a buckle ? I do think that slight spring in the washer may be a good idea.
Hey losing a key happened to me 2 weeks ago. I was replacing bearing of a vacuum pump motor. I just set the key aside so I would't lose it. Well I made a new one and ended up finding the other one. Your key will show up too.
Hey Adam. Nice work, thanks for sharing it. Forgive the noob question but at 16:15 when your drill wanders slightly, why is that? Does it imply your tailstock isn't perfectly aligned? Not saying "You're doing it wrong!" just that mine (even centre drill when it doesn't just snap) does the same and I'm concerned that I'm 'doing it wrong' but without the knowledge of why and whether it's ok. Thanks in advance.
In this particular case, it is the nature of chisel point drills combined with a bit of imperfection. Even a perfectly ground chisel point drill will wander a bit on contact. Spotting drills have the point ground to minimize the drift (they are much pointier), and the angle of the spotter (120deg) is wider than the angle of the drill (118deg). This causes the point of the drill to make first contact with the spotted hole, and allow the flutes to gradually engage. The very tip of a center drill is usually also ground to 120, so you can use a large center drill as a spotting drill. It is generally bad practice (tho universally done), to spot a hole with a center drill so you are using the 60deg taper to start the drill. Not a big deal most of the time, but it will do a poor job of centering the drill, and will damage the flutes on harder materials. Best practice (tho also usually ignored :) ) is to use a spotting drill, but they are a tad expensive so low on most people buying priorities. Once you get some though, you will never use a center drill for spotting again. To answer your question in full, the last part of the riddle depends on you the machinist. A skill you will learn easily when you apply yourself to it, is letting the drill dwell just long enough to find its center, but not so long it begins to rub. If you let the drill dwell to long on materials that work harden (all yellow metals, many stainless steels, and some alloy steels), you can chip or even break the drill. Some types of stainless are really nasty about this, they will work harden very fast, and the pressure needed to drive the drill in will snap the bit. The tail stock being out of alignment can make the problem worse, but unless it is way off, the drill will be able to find its center. Tail stock mis-alignment cause other problems with drilling, mostly over heating and excessive power usage. It really causes more problems with trying to turn between centers.
joshua43214: thanks for taking the time to write such a comprehensive reply. I've got (cheap) spotting drills for the mill but I'd wondered why bits seemed to pull towards centre on the lathe when they ought to be already centred. Sounds like I could be being too cautious and snapping bits because I'm going too slowly for the lead-in rather than going too fast then. Will give it a try and see if that works better - what's the worst that can happen!....when wearing eye-protection ;-) I'll be following this series as I suspect I may end up having to do something similar on my mill table to solve the intermittent shriek that greasing it just didn't solve. Meh, it may be cheap...but it's all I've got space for.
Lots of things can contribute to the way a drill bends on the lathe. With a cheap lathe (I am assuming you have something akin to a Harbor Freight), the tail stock could in deed be far enough out of alignment to cause issue with starting. Drilling is a lot more complex than you would think, and it requires boatloads of power. At the very center of the bit, the RPM is very close to 0, so there is essentially no cutting happening at all at the point. What actually happens is the material undergoes plastic deformation from the pressure, and flows like wax outwards until it get to the fluted area. Cheap drills will never perform well, this is one area it is worth spending some extra dough. You can find a lot of agreement about who makes the best drills, but you will pay more for a full set of drills, than you prolly paid for your lathe. I have had good luck with Triumph drills, they seem to hit a nice balance between quality and price. www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Holemaking/Drilling-Drill-Bits/Drill-Bit-Sets?navid=12106099 Hertel is a decent alternative if the Triumphs break the budget. I've had bad luck with Interstate, but others like them a lot ymv. Probably not a bad idea to check the ram on the tail stock, only takes a moment to do. I have a nice Taiwanese lathe that I wanted the ram to be really spot on since I turn between centers a lot, by dint of mostly luck, I got it to half a thou. Aside from TH-cam, I suggest checking out the Hobby Machinist Forum. Unlike an un-named forum (coughPMcough), where all question devolve into flame wars, there are some superb machinists there, and they love to answer "dumb" questions.
I agree with all You say. Feel and drill angles are very important. Most spotting drills are unsuitable, the 118 ones can be difficult to find. Not mentioned here is the method of using a cross point stub drill directly (I prefer Dormer) and skip the spotter. For deeper holes, continue with a longer drill following the started hole. For me this seems to be quicker and center better especially in softer materials. Also breaking the edge on drills in brass and and other "pulling" materials improves precision. Another trick for larger holes on the lathe is to chamfer the the hole with an angle a little "flatter" than the drill so that the next larger drill hits innermost edge first and not chips its corners. Important for larger diameters especially for (expensive) carbide drills in hard materials.
I have a suggestion. Before you install the friction wheel over the thin washer, try rubbing it down into the oil groove a few thou. This will let the oil get between the washer and the nut, while still letting the oil get down into the bore. Might be able to put a piece of 12ga or 14ga copper wire above the washer and tighten the nut up a bit to force it down into the groove. Pretty it will distort the washer, but I also bet it will work just the same.
fixed it right up. but I am curious would cool mist or flood coolant kept the brass from warping under the heat of parting it off? (please remember newbie here lol)
I would have been tempted to clamp the bent thrust washer between two clean blocks of steel and put it in a common kitchen oven at 300 F for an hour. Would have turned the oven off and let it cool to room temperature. This is similar to what they do in tempering steel. I have been able to greatly reduce the stress in 1018 cold rolled using this technique. Maybe it would have flattened that thrust washer.
A nice quickie project video might be to make a tool post shim to make the Victor and the Monarch have the same center height, since you share Multifix tool holders between them.
What might work with parting off the thin washers is to not quite part off before boring (leave a few millimetres or thirty seconds of meat to where the bore would finish), bore and then finish the parting off.
Instead of trying to part off 10 or 20 thou it might be easier to make yourself a little punch and just punch them from bronze shim stock. Great video as always.
Good addition to the slide. I'm surprised G&E didn't have something there like what you made, I guess they figured the steel on cast iron would be Ok for the life of the machine.
Adam, I should have watched the video for a little bit longer. Could you use the "warped" shim anyway? I would think that it would just get squashed flat when it was installed? Great video and a good tip on grinding the parting blade. THanks! Eric
Just wondering, what if you make an 'anvil' that you stick to the side of the shimstock that you want to part off. One of those superglue anvils that Clickspring guy uses.... Would that work in reducing the warping?
I use a slitting machine for cutting foam similar to a lathe set up with a blade. We get blade and material deflection all the time and need to make adjustments by changing our angle. Would changing your angle of apprach help keep the thin bronze washer from distorting?? Or could you bring a bevel on the cutting edge of your tool?? Just curious obviously very different situations.
I am truly envious, it sucks being without a machine, even a silly Chinese lathe would be better than nothing. I would be doing the same thing you are doing, on the lookout for a used Chinese lathe locally, sometimes they come up, and often they have some tooling as an extra. It wouldn't hurt, as most of what I do is for R/C Aircraft, so, everything is tiny.
You should check out This Old Tony. He recently bought an ultra cheapo chinesium lathe, and is running a series on how to improve it. From what he said in the last episode, he is going to make a series on how to make new metal gears for it, using nothing but the lathe itself, and a few hand tools (the *really* cheap Chinese lathes have plastic gears from factory).
Look at Sherline lathes . I have a bigger lathe but if I wanted a wee tiny lathe these would be the people I would buy from. They make all sorts of stuff. Just call them to make sure you get everything you need like the gears and attachment for threading. www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiMlbfiwOLhAhVJQ6wKHZWTAnIQFjAAegQIBBAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sherline.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw0sXdP-KS-WDCCOOBm4c14S
Hi...I love your videos. And I must comment on your skill level..very impressive. Two things that I would like to comment on One was on the large bushings you made and pressed into the very large telescope cylinder. How much was the interference fit?....my suggestion is that Sunnen...automotive equipment markets a very good spray for interference fit wrist pins....really works well The other question is that could you have used a Torrington radial thrust bearing?
I realize that this video was done a while ago - would you be able to press up a flat plate with the tail stock, hold in a bush with a thick shoulder, again with the tail stock, or machine an adapter for the live center with a shaft for the ID and again, a shoulder to provide support and prevent the part from deflecting?
hey addam, i have a question. Would oil impregnated cast iron (like the one you showed us once when you were burning off the oil from a piece to weld it) do a better job there than bronze? Is it possible to impregnate the iron it in your shop? with a vacuum pump or something... That would be a very interesting video.
Another great video Adam, I love it when you are measuring up the piece and then out comes "Grandad's micrometer" or "Dad's old ...." it really adds that touch of providence to your work and shows the pedigree of your family. You really are a pleasure and delight to follow mate
Am a maintenance mechanic by profession and do a little of everything: welding, machining, plumbing and electrical. Have two Bridgeport clones, a small Clausing and 15x 60 Lansing lathe, and OLD Brown & Sharpe No. 5 grinder at my disposal. Have learned a Lot by watching your channel for couple of years. BIG FAN!!!
Hal Austvold same here.
I like your close-up stills at the end. Good focus, lighting, and composition - calendar worthy!
Was thinking the same thing. Excellent.
Thanks!
You should inscribe those washers with your name and date so in 70 years the next person can tell when the original repair was made. Great work. My wife and I love to watch you videos because you are a natural in front of the camera and your camera angles give much context to your explanations. Keep up the good work and God Bless you.
abom, you never cease to amaze me with all your knowledge, both as a machinist and a video producer! i havent seen a video youve made where ive lost interest! as long as you keep making videos, ill keep watching :)
"Give it to Abom, he can fix it. He can fix anything!" Thanks, Adam for another great video. Cheers.
Hi Adam, yeah, that "I don't know where I put it down" thing happens in my home & shop so much, it explains why I have multiples of things located in various rooms so I can always find one with ease!! Nice repair!!
Lol Same thing happens to me. Be alone sitting on the ground working, lay a tool down and it magically teleports 20 feet under a box or something as soon as you take your eyes off it.
I think it would take me 30 minutes to center that bronze rod up and I think you did it in less than 15 seconds. Thanks for “letting me in your shop”!
Engraving machines from WWII era had bronze thrust washers on all three axes inside and outside to be replaced as needed which explains how I could use them in the 1980's-90's-2000's. America's preeminence in precision machining was what propelled the winning of that war,and all subsequent decades of prosperity.
Anytime I lose a part I had in my hand, I always check the bathroom. At least half the time, there it is! Thanks for all the wonderful vids, Adam.
Really appreciate the mid week boost. Thank you.
Always admire the people who keep their shops as clean as their houses. Hats off to all who fit the profile. Nice video Adam.
A bit of mid-week machining to brighten up hump day! This virtual apprenticeship is TH-cam at its finest.
There is nothing about what you do for fun or for a living that doesn't fascinate the shit out of me. I could watch you all day sir... (And when I was binge-ing your channel back in the day that was exactly what I was doing.) Zero regrets on that
Never gets old watching you true a piece on the 4 jaw. You Are The Man on 4 jaw!
Hey Abom, I must say your dad and family must be so proud of your setup and carrying on the family business with so much passion! keep it up ol scout!
Really good work Adam!!!! Enjoyed watching.....Thanks
Nicely done Adam, now that you made a new key you will probably find the original. Happens all the time.
15.32 "put an angle on it aswell so that it parts the piece off and leaves the nub on the material", aahh, that is the gem for me, just about to grind a set of tools make a set of parts and that is something I have not come across before and will be so useful. Thank you so much, looking forward to working that out.
Great job Adam - I did wonder if punching out 'washers' from sheet shim material might have done but still - super fix - worth keeping lubed now I reckon.
Adam, your videos are the best, thanks for sharing, ow the anticipation is killin’ me to see your G&E Shaper running and the step down installed and seeing it being used.!.!.!.
I learn so much watching you work, but mostly it's like a meditation seeing you go through your process.
It is easy to set a tool or a part down and completely forget where it is. Like you, it is so nice owning some of my grandad's measuring instruments, tool bits, his lathe and his drill press. He worked as a machinist and at home as well, just as you do, after he retired.
Almost forgot to say: very good solution!
Excellent modification. I like the way that you’re keeping the machine as original as possible. It would have been tempting to add thrust roller bearings, but this is, to my mind, the better way.
Those little washers look like cymbals, that would make an awesome little mini drum set haha
Great video work Adam. Pleasure to watch.
Funny how we shoot for making a certain part one way and we end up with another like your perfect Belleville Washer that works perfect for your situation!
Yeah, the shaper's shaping up!
Hey Adam, check the washing machine, dryer or your clean pants for the key. Looking forward to the nut and final assembly of that part. No kidding about where to find the key; we used to lose change and found it one of those three places (washers, nuts and even dollar bills, too!), Greg.
Mom always said, "Look under your bed!"
Nice work. Bronze cuts so well.
Nice job! I used to have to make spacers for the electron microscope Wehnelt cylinder that were less the 1mm thick. I had to always make them about 3 mm and then sand them down to thickness. I made a jig for the belt sander to get them parallel to the belt surface and glued them to a stub to sand. I love to see bronze being machined, especially with a sharp tool like that! Thanks.
Looks done right now, looks like it should have been made with bronze replaceable bushes in the first place, but then given its nigh 70 years old maybe not eh! This whole head restoration is going to make the shaper I think, I was itching to tear it down. Well done Adam.
Excellent choice, The bronze thrust washers should serve you well it is the best choice for high pressure and slow revolutions.. They will require frequent or constant lubrication. Great engineering!
Hi Adam, this is like Christmas morning for me... I just can't wait until you've completed the repairs. I'm so much looking forward to seeing the alterations work and watch the G&E perform without that 'climbing' at the start of a deep cut!
Best of luck buddy, I hope it exceeds your expectations.
Hi Adam, Big Fan of your stuff! For thin washers and the like, take a look at Chris's work over on Clickspring. I use his "superglue jig" all the time and it works great.
That little bit of spring in the washer might even help when adjusting to limit backlash.
simple and easy fix. that's why I like your content.
That's progressing well Adam.
Nicely done Adam.
uhhh, spring washer. to help with the backlash, yeah that's it. did it on purpose.
I just loved this video Adam, personally I'd have removed a little bit more steel from the leadscrew, so that i could have slightly thicker washers , but the bell in the 20 though one actually helps the process as it puts a preload into the unit, thus as the locknut is snugged up any backlash is totally eliminated. Nice job my son I can hear your dad and grandad saying. And by the way loved seeing you use your Grandad's Starrett special micrometer
When you are drilling with the tailstock, say at 16:25, what causes the drill to drift? This also illustrates the necessity to ream for correct size.
What you're seeing is caused by the 'web' of the drill trying to cut the material, and having trouble doing it. If he would have drilled a shallow hole with a center drill, that 'walking' would not have happened.
Nice accomodations for the washers.
Problem solved, and in a way that makes future wear a trivial thing to fix. I like the plan and how you made it work.
Yep, new washers are easily made in a matter of minutes when needed.
Cool vid Adam. Was thinking, could you “reinforce” the super thin washer by supergluing a heavier/thicker washer to the front of the stock you’re parting off? That way it would kinda act like a thicker washer as you parted it off then you could heat it and pop the thin washer off the other piece
Hey Adam , just a tip I've never seen you do .
When you have a smaller part that you are cleaning up by hand on a large flat surface when polishing or cleaning up by hand use a figure 8 rubbing pattern and that will keep the part from sanding or polishing by hand from taking material off one side .
The figure 8 pattern will put the same pressure on all edges so you dont make a wedge or off flat part . If that makes sense .
What a craftsman.
EPIC AWESOME .. Great job Adam.. Smooth and no backlash !
Could you put a thin shim under one of the toolposts so that the toolholders can be used in either lathe both without changing height?
I had some similar fits making 0.023" thick bronze washers. I tried quite a few things before figuring out a recipe that worked.
That recipe for me was a fresh carbide insert in my Kennametal parting tool, with the angled insert having the extended point on the right side (the shape that minimizes the tit on the parted part). Using the power feed set to a brisk pace diving into the part. Oh, and using WD-40 as a cutting fluid seems to help (or maybe it's just something to keep me busy while the feed does all the work).
I could never get flat washers using my HSS parting tool, no matter how I ground it. Also I couldn't get flat washers without the brisk power feed even using the fresh insert in my Kennametal tool. Manually driving the cross slide, or using a comfortably slow power feed just never worked.
Now that I have that recipe, I can churn those washers out by the hundreds.
Thank you Sir for the wonderful video, I am looking forward to seeing these, very interesting indeed.
An airblast to evacuate the chips might keep them from piling up and bending the thin washer.
Very enjoyable video. I always learn something watching your videos. Thanks.
Yeeeeees... some more Abom79
Very well done, Could I offer an idea. If the washer needs to be replced in the future for a thinner one I would Part it off thicker than needed, sperglue or shellac the parted piece back to the bar stock, face that off to required thickness then gently heat it up a little so the new washer comes off without a buckle ? I do think that slight spring in the washer may be a good idea.
Hey losing a key happened to me 2 weeks ago. I was replacing bearing of a vacuum pump motor. I just set the key aside so I would't lose it. Well I made a new one and ended up finding the other one. Your key will show up too.
19:00 why do you have to feed the toolbit that fast if it has a warping problem? or that doesnt matter? thx
Hey Adam. Nice work, thanks for sharing it. Forgive the noob question but at 16:15 when your drill wanders slightly, why is that? Does it imply your tailstock isn't perfectly aligned? Not saying "You're doing it wrong!" just that mine (even centre drill when it doesn't just snap) does the same and I'm concerned that I'm 'doing it wrong' but without the knowledge of why and whether it's ok. Thanks in advance.
In this particular case, it is the nature of chisel point drills combined with a bit of imperfection. Even a perfectly ground chisel point drill will wander a bit on contact.
Spotting drills have the point ground to minimize the drift (they are much pointier), and the angle of the spotter (120deg) is wider than the angle of the drill (118deg). This causes the point of the drill to make first contact with the spotted hole, and allow the flutes to gradually engage. The very tip of a center drill is usually also ground to 120, so you can use a large center drill as a spotting drill. It is generally bad practice (tho universally done), to spot a hole with a center drill so you are using the 60deg taper to start the drill. Not a big deal most of the time, but it will do a poor job of centering the drill, and will damage the flutes on harder materials.
Best practice (tho also usually ignored :) ) is to use a spotting drill, but they are a tad expensive so low on most people buying priorities. Once you get some though, you will never use a center drill for spotting again.
To answer your question in full, the last part of the riddle depends on you the machinist. A skill you will learn easily when you apply yourself to it, is letting the drill dwell just long enough to find its center, but not so long it begins to rub. If you let the drill dwell to long on materials that work harden (all yellow metals, many stainless steels, and some alloy steels), you can chip or even break the drill. Some types of stainless are really nasty about this, they will work harden very fast, and the pressure needed to drive the drill in will snap the bit.
The tail stock being out of alignment can make the problem worse, but unless it is way off, the drill will be able to find its center. Tail stock mis-alignment cause other problems with drilling, mostly over heating and excessive power usage. It really causes more problems with trying to turn between centers.
joshua43214: thanks for taking the time to write such a comprehensive reply. I've got (cheap) spotting drills for the mill but I'd wondered why bits seemed to pull towards centre on the lathe when they ought to be already centred. Sounds like I could be being too cautious and snapping bits because I'm going too slowly for the lead-in rather than going too fast then. Will give it a try and see if that works better - what's the worst that can happen!....when wearing eye-protection ;-)
I'll be following this series as I suspect I may end up having to do something similar on my mill table to solve the intermittent shriek that greasing it just didn't solve. Meh, it may be cheap...but it's all I've got space for.
Lots of things can contribute to the way a drill bends on the lathe. With a cheap lathe (I am assuming you have something akin to a Harbor Freight), the tail stock could in deed be far enough out of alignment to cause issue with starting.
Drilling is a lot more complex than you would think, and it requires boatloads of power. At the very center of the bit, the RPM is very close to 0, so there is essentially no cutting happening at all at the point. What actually happens is the material undergoes plastic deformation from the pressure, and flows like wax outwards until it get to the fluted area. Cheap drills will never perform well, this is one area it is worth spending some extra dough. You can find a lot of agreement about who makes the best drills, but you will pay more for a full set of drills, than you prolly paid for your lathe. I have had good luck with Triumph drills, they seem to hit a nice balance between quality and price.
www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Holemaking/Drilling-Drill-Bits/Drill-Bit-Sets?navid=12106099
Hertel is a decent alternative if the Triumphs break the budget. I've had bad luck with Interstate, but others like them a lot ymv.
Probably not a bad idea to check the ram on the tail stock, only takes a moment to do. I have a nice Taiwanese lathe that I wanted the ram to be really spot on since I turn between centers a lot, by dint of mostly luck, I got it to half a thou.
Aside from TH-cam, I suggest checking out the Hobby Machinist Forum. Unlike an un-named forum (coughPMcough), where all question devolve into flame wars, there are some superb machinists there, and they love to answer "dumb" questions.
I agree with all You say. Feel and drill angles are very important. Most spotting drills are unsuitable, the 118 ones can be difficult to find. Not mentioned here is the method of using a cross point stub drill directly (I prefer Dormer) and skip the spotter. For deeper holes, continue with a longer drill following the started hole. For me this seems to be quicker and center better especially in softer materials. Also breaking the edge on drills in brass and and other "pulling" materials improves precision. Another trick for larger holes on the lathe is to chamfer the the hole with an angle a little "flatter" than the drill so that the next larger drill hits innermost edge first and not chips its corners. Important for larger diameters especially for (expensive) carbide drills in hard materials.
I like the idea of Grandson using Granddads Starrett to fix a machine from great grandads time
I have a suggestion.
Before you install the friction wheel over the thin washer, try rubbing it down into the oil groove a few thou. This will let the oil get between the washer and the nut, while still letting the oil get down into the bore.
Might be able to put a piece of 12ga or 14ga copper wire above the washer and tighten the nut up a bit to force it down into the groove. Pretty it will distort the washer, but I also bet it will work just the same.
Catcher tool. NICE. Can't tell you how many times I've dug through the chip tray to find my parted off piece. Why didn't I think of that?
I love the work you do it’s so amazing
Good stuff Adam, Enjoyed!
ATB, Robin
fixed it right up. but I am curious would cool mist or flood coolant kept the brass from warping under the heat of parting it off? (please remember newbie here lol)
I would have been tempted to clamp the bent thrust washer between two clean blocks of steel and put it in a common kitchen oven at 300 F for an hour. Would have turned the oven off and let it cool to room temperature. This is similar to what they do in tempering steel. I have been able to greatly reduce the stress in 1018 cold rolled using this technique. Maybe it would have flattened that thrust washer.
Very nice work Adam!
A nice quickie project video might be to make a tool post shim to make the Victor and the Monarch have the same center height, since you share Multifix tool holders between them.
At that size, would it not be simpler to cut the shim out of shim stock? I'm pretty sure shim stock comes in thicknesses up to 2 mm thick.
if you have it :)
What might work with parting off the thin washers is to not quite part off before boring (leave a few millimetres or thirty seconds of meat to where the bore would finish), bore and then finish the parting off.
Adam, thanks for your videos. Have you considered phenolics when your turning steel against cast?
Clayton Parks dat dust
I have phenolic and that might make a good bushing too. I'm just used to bronze being my go-to.
awesome work Adam
hi there, just discovered your channel. how old are the machines in your workshop? Excellent job!
About that key; I remember you putting such a key in your right back pocket once. Maybe you did that again.
The ten thou one looked like a miniature cymbal!
how about parting off that washer too thick, superglue it back on and then face to the final thickness?
very common in lathing small pieces. (see "Building Mini-Motors videos)
VERY good and very functional idea.
Instead of trying to part off 10 or 20 thou it might be easier to make yourself a little punch and just punch them from bronze shim stock. Great video as always.
I tried that already and it’s not as simple as you think.
"like it was made for it" well it was Adam! lol
Love your videos Adam.
Adam I though I was the only one that put parts in a safe place , were they won’t get lost, only not to be able to find them when I need them!
You are an artist man.
Nice job Adom
Good addition to the slide. I'm surprised G&E didn't have something there like what you made, I guess they figured the steel on cast iron would be Ok for the life of the machine.
well it kinda was, it still had adjustment left, its just not the smoothest option
Great job as usual. Did I see a little ball oiler on top for squirting in a little oil?
You have problems with parting off ten thou? Jeez i have problems parting off a 1/16th...
Adam, I should have watched the video for a little bit longer. Could you use the "warped" shim anyway? I would think that it would just get squashed flat when it was installed?
Great video and a good tip on grinding the parting blade. THanks!
Eric
Better than new! Would those parts be lapped together originally?
Don't suppose you would do a training video for bit grinding?
I've got a couple old videos on turning tools but do want to make some fresh video on some tool bit grinding.
Adam nice work.
can you take a small amount from the handle?
I'd put a round on the live center and put some pressure against the part that's trying to roll over. Just a bit to keep it straight.
You would be binding up and rubbing the tools
Monarch time = happy time!
Just wondering, what if you make an 'anvil' that you stick to the side of the shimstock that you want to part off. One of those superglue anvils that Clickspring guy uses.... Would that work in reducing the warping?
i think you mean superglue arbor.
G Andersson Arbor indeed... Arbor, not anvil...:-)
I use a slitting machine for cutting foam similar to a lathe set up with a blade. We get blade and material deflection all the time and need to make adjustments by changing our angle. Would changing your angle of apprach help keep the thin bronze washer from distorting?? Or could you bring a bevel on the cutting edge of your tool?? Just curious obviously very different situations.
I am truly envious, it sucks being without a machine, even a silly Chinese lathe would be better than nothing.
I would be doing the same thing you are doing, on the lookout for a used Chinese lathe locally, sometimes they come up, and often they have some tooling as an extra.
It wouldn't hurt, as most of what I do is for R/C Aircraft, so, everything is tiny.
You should check out This Old Tony. He recently bought an ultra cheapo chinesium lathe, and is running a series on how to improve it. From what he said in the last episode, he is going to make a series on how to make new metal gears for it, using nothing but the lathe itself, and a few hand tools (the *really* cheap Chinese lathes have plastic gears from factory).
Look at Sherline lathes . I have a bigger lathe but if I wanted a wee tiny lathe these would be the people I would buy from.
They make all sorts of stuff.
Just call them to make sure you get everything you need like the gears and attachment for threading.
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiMlbfiwOLhAhVJQ6wKHZWTAnIQFjAAegQIBBAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sherline.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw0sXdP-KS-WDCCOOBm4c14S
Love your videos Abom! How do you determine your speeds and feeds? I have a little EMCO Compact 8 (Austrian made) Just by experience?
Hi...I love your videos. And I must comment on your skill level..very impressive.
Two things that I would like to comment on
One was on the large bushings you made and pressed into the very large telescope cylinder.
How much was the interference fit?....my suggestion is that Sunnen...automotive equipment markets a very good spray for interference fit wrist pins....really works well
The other question is that could you have used a Torrington radial thrust bearing?
Thanks Adam.
I realize that this video was done a while ago - would you be able to press up a flat plate with the tail stock, hold in a bush with a thick shoulder, again with the tail stock, or machine an adapter for the live center with a shaft for the ID and again, a shoulder to provide support and prevent the part from deflecting?
It's a 10/1000th brass belleville washer !
hey addam, i have a question. Would oil impregnated cast iron (like the one you showed us once when you were burning off the oil from a piece to weld it) do a better job there than bronze? Is it possible to impregnate the iron it in your shop? with a vacuum pump or something... That would be a very interesting video.