Hey! Thanks for the information. I watched this last night after having watched a few other videos and yours was by far the most helpful. I got my two skirts done tonight. Thanks again!
Video of installing the skirt is great, I have a question in regards to continuing the shirt your working on as it continues up around the inside corner. Are they connected as they go around the inside corner or is there a break?
thanks for the video but can you explain the 3/8 to tuck the carpet are you adding the 3/8 to the 5 in how is this added and on 5:34 how did you get the measurement to place that line and i followed this and came up short the top was fine but short on the bottom . mine was 75 7/8 i know i missed something on the bottom do the angles on the bottom. My brain starts to hurt which side is longer. Video was much more helpful then the others.
A fair question. For this house, that skirt wouldn't be connecting directly to another skirt. The landing is big. So it'd be a skirt on the upper stairs, some base molding across the landing and onto the skirt for the lower stairs.
Would you recommend using mdf for risers? I want to install some hardwood on my stair treads but my current treads have a bull nose on them. Not sure if I should cut off the bull nose and build out the risers. Any ideas?
MDF would be fine, especially since your risers don't really add any structural integrity to the stair. Are you thinking about painting the riser, and then maybe staining the new treads? That's a nice look.
Thanks for the video Wade. I noticed you made the bottom cut on the skirt so that it was 6" above the floor, and the baseboard you said was 5 1/4". Did you do it like this so the molding can just butt up against the skirt? I'm wondering because I am trying to figure out how to go from the skirt at my house to the baseboard in a similar situation. Thank you!
Thanks for the question. Yes, I always consider what my baseboard height will be, and then I cut the skirt so that the baseboard can simply butt into it.
I would leave that up to the carpet layer. Haha. The short answer: No. You wouldn't NEED to cut notches and leave a gap for carpet. The long answer: I've never actually watched the carpet layers install the carpet with enough attentiveness that I caught their methods. What I do know is that I've been in the housing industry for 12 years and have worked with countless different flooring companies, and I've never been asked to cut the notches. (I have been forced into cutting the notches many times due to the framers not leaving enough room for the 3/4" material to fit in between their treads or stringers and the drywall.) They put the tack strips around each tread and make it work somehow. You've brought up a fair question, and I will be asking the next carpet guy I see on the job about it. Thanks for the reply!
@@paysonbiker would you say that it is common for specialized tradesman to not know much about the other trades and processes? I am a jack of all and i hired a tile guy recently and he was great at tile, but i had to do some plumbing and framing in the process. My work would effect the finished tile and layout so i was always checking with him before i relocated something. He couldn't offer input on anything, he said that all that was usually done before he got to a job he didnt know.
Interesting question. Yes, I'd say it is common for a specialized tradesman not to have a proficiency for other trades, though it isn't true for everyone. Certainly a general contractor/handyman/superintendent would do well to know a fair bit of everything. I know enough about framing and can usually tell when it's been done well or right. I've even framed a room or two. I know a little about drywall installation. I suppose I know as much as I've had to, and wouldn't mind learning a lot more, but I'm mainly concerned with plumb walls, more than anything. As an update to your initial question though, what i've now seen is that the carpet layers will simply lay tack strip over near the skirts and don't have a need to tuck it.
As a carpet installer here, NO the skirt does NOT need a gap to tuck into. The pad and carpet butt right up to the skirt board. Some installers put tack strip on the treads and tuck the carpet to it also.
Useful video. When you transferred the angle to the top of the skirt, you had a hash mark you used with the speed square and straight edge. How did you locate this hash mark?
I appreciate the feedback. I should have pointed that out around the 2:00 mark, which I did not. So that hash mark is the distance of a level line, set 3/8" above the landing, and even with the top riser, out to my chalk line (which is the rake of the staircase). Does that make sense? I wish I had specified that. Time to make an updated video on these, and one where my coworker holds the camera horizontally :)
Nope. Not necessary at all. However, if I'm using 1x12 material, and I only wanted the skirt to be 1 or 2 inches above the treads, I may then have to rip the skirt, depending on how the stairs were framed.
Hi bro, awesome video I'm learning about stairs skirts just I would like to know how did you make the second mark, I know the top one it's 5'' high but the bottom one? Do you have marks on your level?
I actually do have a little, cheap 1-foot level that is marked like a ruler. If you have a level, mark the measurement you want on it, and then use it to make the mark on the wall. Does that answer your question?
@@chriscosetta3985 I'm doing the same thing right now. I used a hand saw to saw the bullnose back to the riser at a distance from the wall that is at least as wide as the skirt board. Then use a chisel to take out the tread material on the skirt board side of the hand saw cut. Hope that helps!
![“อาร์ต พศุตม์” เกือบเอี่ยวทุกคดีดัง เอ๊ะไว้ก่อน ไม่มีอะไรได้มาง่ายๆ | แฉ 16 ต.ค. 67 [2/3] | GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0Gx-0-kUBv8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for great video
Using simple tools 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching and giving me your feedback!
Thanks, yours was the only video I could find installing skirts with the gap between the wall and stairs!
Hey! Thanks for the information. I watched this last night after having watched a few other videos and yours was by far the most helpful. I got my two skirts done tonight. Thanks again!
This was the exact video I needed. Thanks
Video of installing the skirt is great, I have a question in regards to continuing the shirt your working on as it continues up around the inside corner. Are they connected as they go around the inside corner or is there a break?
thanks for the video but can you explain the 3/8 to tuck the carpet are you adding the 3/8 to the 5 in how is this added and on 5:34 how did you get the measurement to place that line and i followed this and came up short the top was fine but short on the bottom . mine was 75 7/8 i know i missed something on the bottom do the angles on the bottom. My brain starts to hurt which side is longer. Video was much more helpful then the others.
What if you don’t have the gap between wall and stairs, how do you cut to fit on each tread?
Awesome work & very informative.
Thanks 👍
Thank You!
nice job!
Just curious: Why didn't you make the skirt longer and miter the upper corner to connect with the top skirt that you will be putting on?
A fair question. For this house, that skirt wouldn't be connecting directly to another skirt. The landing is big. So it'd be a skirt on the upper stairs, some base molding across the landing and onto the skirt for the lower stairs.
Would you recommend using mdf for risers? I want to install some hardwood on my stair treads but my current treads have a bull nose on them. Not sure if I should cut off the bull nose and build out the risers. Any ideas?
MDF would be fine, especially since your risers don't really add any structural integrity to the stair. Are you thinking about painting the riser, and then maybe staining the new treads? That's a nice look.
@@paysonbiker I think MDF might show a lot of wear over a period of years where wood might show less.
Thanks for the video Wade. I noticed you made the bottom cut on the skirt so that it was 6" above the floor, and the baseboard you said was 5 1/4". Did you do it like this so the molding can just butt up against the skirt? I'm wondering because I am trying to figure out how to go from the skirt at my house to the baseboard in a similar situation. Thank you!
Thanks for the question. Yes, I always consider what my baseboard height will be, and then I cut the skirt so that the baseboard can simply butt into it.
Great, thanks again for the video and the help.
Wouldn't you need to make cuts across the board to leave space to tuck the carpet on each step? How would you tuck the carpet on the stairs here?
I would leave that up to the carpet layer. Haha. The short answer: No. You wouldn't NEED to cut notches and leave a gap for carpet.
The long answer: I've never actually watched the carpet layers install the carpet with enough attentiveness that I caught their methods. What I do know is that I've been in the housing industry for 12 years and have worked with countless different flooring companies, and I've never been asked to cut the notches. (I have been forced into cutting the notches many times due to the framers not leaving enough room for the 3/4" material to fit in between their treads or stringers and the drywall.) They put the tack strips around each tread and make it work somehow.
You've brought up a fair question, and I will be asking the next carpet guy I see on the job about it.
Thanks for the reply!
@@paysonbiker would you say that it is common for specialized tradesman to not know much about the other trades and processes? I am a jack of all and i hired a tile guy recently and he was great at tile, but i had to do some plumbing and framing in the process. My work would effect the finished tile and layout so i was always checking with him before i relocated something. He couldn't offer input on anything, he said that all that was usually done before he got to a job he didnt know.
Interesting question. Yes, I'd say it is common for a specialized tradesman not to have a proficiency for other trades, though it isn't true for everyone. Certainly a general contractor/handyman/superintendent would do well to know a fair bit of everything.
I know enough about framing and can usually tell when it's been done well or right. I've even framed a room or two. I know a little about drywall installation. I suppose I know as much as I've had to, and wouldn't mind learning a lot more, but I'm mainly concerned with plumb walls, more than anything.
As an update to your initial question though, what i've now seen is that the carpet layers will simply lay tack strip over near the skirts and don't have a need to tuck it.
As a carpet installer here, NO the skirt does NOT need a gap to tuck into. The pad and carpet butt right up to the skirt board. Some installers put tack strip on the treads and tuck the carpet to it also.
Useful video. When you transferred the angle to the top of the skirt, you had a hash mark you used with the speed square and straight edge. How did you locate this hash mark?
I appreciate the feedback. I should have pointed that out around the 2:00 mark, which I did not. So that hash mark is the distance of a level line, set 3/8" above the landing, and even with the top riser, out to my chalk line (which is the rake of the staircase).
Does that make sense? I wish I had specified that. Time to make an updated video on these, and one where my coworker holds the camera horizontally :)
Thanks for the reply. That does make sense. I have a staircase that needs a skirt on one side. I also have a landing similar to this one.
Great! Good luck!
Wouldn’t you have to rip the skirt to make sure you hit at 5 inches above the tread?
Nope. Not necessary at all. However, if I'm using 1x12 material, and I only wanted the skirt to be 1 or 2 inches above the treads, I may then have to rip the skirt, depending on how the stairs were framed.
Hi bro, awesome video I'm learning about stairs skirts just I would like to know how did you make the second mark, I know the top one it's 5'' high but the bottom one? Do you have marks on your level?
I actually do have a little, cheap 1-foot level that is marked like a ruler. If you have a level, mark the measurement you want on it, and then use it to make the mark on the wall. Does that answer your question?
And thank you!
Ok, thanks for reply, I hope you keep making videos about stairs.
Thanks, Felipe. Let me know if there are other topics about which you'd like me to make a video. I plan on doing a lot of different ones eventually.
Any suggestions for cutting skirts with treads that span from drywall to drywall with no space?
Will the stairs be getting carpet, or are they stained wood treads requiring a more precise fit?
Wade Haskell it’s carpet over osb treads.
@@chriscosetta3985 I'm doing the same thing right now. I used a hand saw to saw the bullnose back to the riser at a distance from the wall that is at least as wide as the skirt board. Then use a chisel to take out the tread material on the skirt board side of the hand saw cut. Hope that helps!
Oh, I can't stand it when someone steps on my MDF, I hate footprints on my skirt! Grrrrrrrr
If I was the only guy on the job, I might be able to keep that from happening. Haha. At least this was paint grade.
I can't hear you-- consider getting proper microphone for instructional video's -- had to turn on the cc..
I can hear just fine. Maybe you need better headphones or a hearing aid?