Thanks for making this video. That rivet was the trick to making this repair easy. Instead of using the metal tie straps I was able to use a small bolt, lock washers and double nuts to re-attach the previous riveted part.
Yondering I am hoping you still read questions. I have the aluminum ends and have replaced the tip going to the inside door handle. When reseating the cable tip, does the end with the "ledge" running around i have to clip into anything or am I just placing the ball end into the mechanism?
Good video. I've had to do all my doors cept driver and passenger. FYI, they sell aluminum ends u can get through amazon to use same cable s and put new ends on. will last forever after that. It is definitely a contrived repair from not just Ford, kits from Ford are crazy priced. You can buy the tips for all doors for less than one replacement cable. Well worth it.
At 1:50 it shows the backside of the back door handle. My clothes got caught on it and the handle snapped and now the handle won't work. I have to try and find out what disconnected.
The lock actuator bracket can be remove and you can put a stove bolt in it (use super glue to hold it in place). Put it back together and use a nut instead of pop rivets or the straps you used.
You can replace the rivet with a 1/4 inch bolt and nut. No need for straps. Also, you can separate the actuator from the bracket without drilling the rivet but drilling may be easier for some of you.
You don't have to drill those rivets out. That lock actuator is fit into that bracket by tension. A knob , top and bottom, fit into those 2 white hard grommets....
I just bought a 1997 Ford E-150 van and the power lock will close but not open on the driver's side. This might mean the actuator is OK but something else is wrong. I'm not a "car guy" so can I repair this myself? Since I have no door key, I can't get into the van except through the passenger side! What tools do I need? I don't even know how to get the paneling off... Thanks!
Still can’t get the doors opened, it is a custom van I took all panels off on rear and side cargo but don’t know how to get the things opened. Top and bottom seem to unlatch but center won’t. I wish someone had a video showing how to open rear or side.
I figured it out! to get into side door always look at the left door which has the handle and lock, you can reach up to latch and pull assembly an door pops open, now the right side is more difficult because theres a latch at the top and bottom, so the handle has 2 cables attached, sometimes your cables will still be attached at the latches and just broken at the handle, you can see where cables go when doors are open and you open handle! If cables are still connected to latches simply pulling on cables will pop second door open, the procedure is about the same for rear doors, eBay sell replacement end pieces for your cables, or you can get them pretty cheap at AutoZone, but I recommend adding some jb weld to end pieces if you buy new ones, remember that cold weather is the enemy and those plastic ends will be brittle and chip if doors are open in cold weather and after several years they will come loose when you need them the most and it will most likely be on a cold day! a good rule of thumb is not to open doors and latches on a cold day!
Is there a child proof lock or button? My side door works with the electric lock to lock and unlock or works with key. I can open the the door from the outside but not from the inside. The spring or cable must still be attached cause there's no play on the inside door handle. Any suggestions?
More than likely the plastic end has crumbled. I bought aluminum replacement tips - I just have to figure out how they go back in. Mechanics manual on the way from ebay.
@@mair815 yep that's exactly what it was. On 2 of them, one was that gear box thingy. I bought aluminum replacements also. Everything's working fine now.
There are four screws (one in each corner.) May have caps on them. Unscrew those and the entire panel prys off. Plastic pegs hold it in place. If your careful, they shouldn't break when prying.
The electric door actuator will pop out with a straight blade screwdriver. It is held in by the clamp that the rivet held in place. Didn't need to bore out that rivet.
On some older models you may be able to pry them out, but you will never get them back together, even when out on your work bench. The repair was intended to drill out the 1/4" Dia. aluminum pop rivet.
Can you help me? I had a guy do a similar repair(on the left door) but now the upper left door latch has stopped working. Previously I could pull down on the cable and it would pop the top latch but now it is not releasing and by "buddy" says he can not get the door open. Is there a trick to this? I hope so.
Sorry, that is about the only part I haven't replaced or worked with on my van. Sadly, on that part, there is no way to look at the latch at all without the door only. If you have the means or access to a small camera scope- you might be able to look up there and find the issue, but with the door closed not sure how you could proceed. I suggest going to a body shop before going to the dealer. Wished I had better info.
Hey, could anyone give me some suggestions? The key lock has a problem unlocking the door but it locks fine. Nothing looks broken to me but it seems the key doesn't push the rod up far enough to unlock the door. Any help greatly appreciated Thanks
Jobob Smiley i had to replace the manual lock knobs because the UV, heat, age had deteriorated the plastic of the old knobs until they would hangup. Bought a set of four long ones
It's the newer junks!! Older dodges never any problems !!!! Had a 10 yr old van for 16yrs =( 26 yrs old) NEVER door problems!!!!! Fords probably better 2 !
Yep! Every door on my work van has broke. Brought to Ford dealership to to fix back doors and it was $700 . Now I'm stuck trying to fix the other doors and my God what I joke this has been.
I do not believe it is necessary to drill out that rivet. The electric locking mechanism is pinned between the two tabs of the bracket (that is riveted to the door). You just spread the two tabs apart and the mechanism comes out. No? I have not done it yet, but it seems easy enough.
You do NOT need to remove the actuator. The J shaped hook that hooks to the latch from the actuator can be easily popped out do the actuator sideways. Then you can unhook it from the latch and pull the entire latch out without fuss.
This video is one of the best of all of them on repairing these latches.
First time as a TH-cam question. These guys are excellent
Thanks for making this video. That rivet was the trick to making this repair easy. Instead of using the metal tie straps I was able to use a small bolt, lock washers and double nuts to re-attach the previous riveted part.
Glad I could help.
TH-cam is THE answer to so many common and not so common problems.
You've got barn doors. I've got the sliding. The SOB won't stay locked when I lock it from the inside.
Yondering I am hoping you still read questions. I have the aluminum ends and have replaced the tip going to the inside door handle. When reseating the cable tip, does the end with the "ledge" running around i have to clip into anything or am I just placing the ball end into the mechanism?
Thank you so much for the help. Hope your information helps me out with this project. Fingers crossed.
Good video. I've had to do all my doors cept driver and passenger. FYI, they sell aluminum ends u can get through amazon to use same cable s and put new ends on. will last forever after that. It is definitely a contrived repair from not just Ford, kits from Ford are crazy priced. You can buy the tips for all doors for less than one replacement cable. Well worth it.
At 1:50 it shows the backside of the back door handle. My clothes got caught on it and the handle snapped and now the handle won't work. I have to try and find out what disconnected.
The lock actuator bracket can be remove and you can put a stove bolt in it (use super glue to hold it in place). Put it back together and use a nut instead of pop rivets or the straps you used.
You can replace the rivet with a 1/4 inch bolt and nut. No need for straps. Also, you can separate the actuator from the bracket without drilling the rivet but drilling may be easier for some of you.
You don't have to drill those rivets out. That lock actuator is fit into that bracket by tension. A knob , top and bottom, fit into those 2 white hard grommets....
You are correct.
would you happen to have the part number for that handle assembly? having a hard time finding it
I just bought a 1997 Ford E-150 van and the power lock will close but not open on the driver's side. This might mean the actuator is OK but something else is wrong. I'm not a "car guy" so can I repair this myself? Since I have no door key, I can't get into the van except through the passenger side! What tools do I need? I don't even know how to get the paneling off... Thanks!
Still can’t get the doors opened, it is a custom van I took all panels off on rear and side cargo but don’t know how to get the things opened. Top and bottom seem to unlatch but center won’t. I wish someone had a video showing how to open rear or side.
the electronic piece is stuck in lock. I'd like to by pass that just have a manual lock can I? I already replaced latch cabled..
Anybody know the part number for the main passenger door latch assembly?
So what you do when u can't open the door how do u get it open ?
I figured it out! to get into side door always look at the left door which has the handle and lock, you can reach up to latch and pull assembly an door pops open, now the right side is more difficult because theres a latch at the top and bottom, so the handle has 2 cables attached, sometimes your cables will still be attached at the latches and just broken at the handle, you can see where cables go when doors are open and you open handle! If cables are still connected to latches simply pulling on cables will pop second door open, the procedure is about the same for rear doors, eBay sell replacement end pieces for your cables, or you can get them pretty cheap at AutoZone, but I recommend adding some jb weld to end pieces if you buy new ones, remember that cold weather is the enemy and those plastic ends will be brittle and chip if doors are open in cold weather and after several years they will come loose when you need them the most and it will most likely be on a cold day! a good rule of thumb is not to open doors and latches on a cold day!
Is there a child proof lock or button? My side door works with the electric lock to lock and unlock or works with key. I can open the the door from the outside but not from the inside. The spring or cable must still be attached cause there's no play on the inside door handle. Any suggestions?
I guess there's no suggestions
I am wondering the same thing. Mine only opens from the outside and not the inside
More than likely the plastic end has crumbled. I bought aluminum replacement tips - I just have to figure out how they go back in. Mechanics manual on the way from ebay.
@@mair815 yep that's exactly what it was. On 2 of them, one was that gear box thingy. I bought aluminum replacements also. Everything's working fine now.
So, how did you get the interior door panel itself off?
There are four screws (one in each corner.) May have caps on them. Unscrew those and the entire panel prys off. Plastic pegs hold it in place. If your careful, they shouldn't break when prying.
The electric door actuator will pop out with a straight blade screwdriver. It is held in by the clamp that the rivet held in place. Didn't need to bore out that rivet.
On some older models you may be able to pry them out, but you will never get them back together, even when out on your work bench. The repair was intended to drill out the 1/4" Dia. aluminum pop rivet.
All my doors are broken!! I guess I need to pick a day and start early and have plenty of light and take time and see what's going on!
Did you ever get your door open?
Can you help me? I had a guy do a similar repair(on the left door) but now the upper left door latch has stopped working. Previously I could pull down on the cable and it would pop the top latch but now it is not releasing and by "buddy" says he can not get the door open. Is there a trick to this? I hope so.
Sorry, that is about the only part I haven't replaced or worked with on my van. Sadly, on that part, there is no way to look at the latch at all without the door only. If you have the means or access to a small camera scope- you might be able to look up there and find the issue, but with the door closed not sure how you could proceed. I suggest going to a body shop before going to the dealer. Wished I had better info.
Thanks.
Great Job
Hey, could anyone give me some suggestions? The key lock has a problem unlocking the door but it locks fine. Nothing looks broken to me but it seems the key doesn't push the rod up far enough to unlock the door.
Any help greatly appreciated
Thanks
Jobob Smiley i had to replace the manual lock knobs because the UV, heat, age had deteriorated the plastic of the old knobs until they would hangup. Bought a set of four long ones
At Autozone for less than $10.
It's the newer junks!! Older dodges never any problems !!!! Had a 10 yr old van for 16yrs =( 26 yrs old) NEVER door problems!!!!! Fords probably better 2 !
ford should be forced to fix this inferior defective product
Tom Mavrakos I own a much newer Ford van with much worse design defects- Ford doesn't care about its customers
That's for sure, I've two Ford's with this problem.
@@Federalwaywebbs it's not just Ford, it's all of them.
I won't own a Ford until they change their design practices. And I've owned a lot of Fords. Nissan NV for me.
Yep! Every door on my work van has broke. Brought to Ford dealership to to fix back doors and it was $700 . Now I'm stuck trying to fix the other doors and my God what I joke this has been.
I do not believe it is necessary to drill out that rivet. The electric locking mechanism is pinned between the two tabs of the bracket (that is riveted to the door). You just spread the two tabs apart and the mechanism comes out. No? I have not done it yet, but it seems easy enough.
It is necessary on many older models
You do NOT need to remove the actuator. The J shaped hook that hooks to the latch from the actuator can be easily popped out do the actuator sideways. Then you can unhook it from the latch and pull the entire latch out without fuss.