SUBARU Crankshaft & Camshaft Sensors REPLACED! FULL TUTORIAL CEL P0340 P0341 P0345 P0346 P0365 P0390
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Well I eventually got it right...
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A = Left side engine (Passenger side)
B = right side engine (Drivers side)
Bank 1 = top sensor
Bank 2 = lower sensor
Cheers. Thank you for that.
Assuming there's only ONE crankshaft position, why does my code come up as: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit??? I see the Letter "A" means passenger side but but isn't there only one and it's located under the alternator? I have 2008 subaru impreza 2.5l Automatic EJ253 Engine. I had a code for it come on and go off in under one hour which was weird. It just turned on my CHECK ENGINE light. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol but it barely looked bad; it just had some dusty, dark powder-like coat on the flat part of the tip if that makes sense.
@@86mnillaman That’s the crank angle sensor you cleaned out. The cam angle sensors are different to crankshaft, yes two camshafts, and are at the back on the top of motor. There’s an A and B, being left and right, I’ve no idea which is left or right, I’d replace both. Hope this helps.
Ah yes! Having four cams there would be four cam angle sensors. I totally forgot the later models had twin cam. Thanks for the heads up Angelo.
@@MrKeenaz I hear you but my code was for the crankshaft. I checked it but it's not on as of no and hope it stays that way but you said to replace the two cams but I don't have an engine code for those. Do you think I should pull and inspect them? Maybe they caused my Crankshaft Position Sensor code to activate? I'm tired of this car. My main issue also is that when I'm accelerating it's sluggish but I have no engine light codes. I've changed the fuel pump assembly with OME part(s), fuel damper, injectors, the sending unit sock strainer (basically another filter that sits in the fuel tank that has a filter on it, New Spark Plugs, ignition coil maybe two years ago, so no engine codes, Spark plus wires, engine oil 3 weeks ago, new battery and alternator, both 02 sensors and new catalytic converter. This car does this bad accelerating. Very sluggish to build up pressure in the exhaust it feels like for it to really go. There's no holes in the exhaust and I do have an aftermarket catback muffler from ebay. So I don't know if maybe it's the catback has something defect or if it's something else. It's very frustrating
This is THE video I have been looking for all day, I need to swap out a camshaft, erm cranksh..., no it's definitely a camshaft position sensor on my 04 Sti, and not only did you locate it but you have just confirmed which side Bank 1 is too! Massive respect for not giving up the DIY approach, you deserve a medal, glad it worked out for you. I'm in the United Kingdom of England and OEM sensors cost a year's wages here. And we have small 10mm wrenches. We also eat dirt and are about to have a zombie apocalypse when we leave the EU. I need my Scoobie driving well in order to escape. Thanks again dude :)
Best video ever, so hilarious when you make fun of yourself. Watched like 10 times over the last 6 months
Investment in sensors = peace of mind. I'm here for the tools and technique. Very much appreciated. Don't feel too bad -- I'm next on the smog list, so I need to do the exhaust thing. I had to have a top-end rebuild a few months back.
I love the Mitsubishi diamonds on a duralast part going into a Subaru
They are factory parts on Subarus
Awesome video. Showing the reality of working on subarus is much better than the videos where they just easily change everything in 2 seconds!! And yeah, mistakes are part of the fun, I guess. Good you got it right :)
So glad it fixed it. My 2.0i sport hatch NI shutters and sputs at low RPM but hasn't left me on the side of the road yet
LITERALLY did the same lmaoooo changed the crankshaft p sensor & drove then it cut out, now I’m here 😂😂 it was the camshaft p sensor….MAF, fuel pump, alternator, tps were all bought before coming to this conclusion. My subie is a sneaky SOB 😂 got a overhaul damn near
Wow and I thought I had it bad…I guess that’s one way to learn unfortunately 🤷♂️
Having the same misfire issue on my 06 wrx, all cylinders. I replaced all spark plugs and coils, replaced crankshaft sensor and now working on the cam sensor. I cannot believe you got the driver side cam sensor out like, gives me hope to get mine out without removing the intake,lol. Also, i need to look for the passenger side one and replace that one as well. Thanks for the video!
I've tried several different wrenches and couldn't get one on the passenger side 10mm the housing gets in the way, any tips?
This was a super good video for learning because god knows I’d have made the same mistakes. Thank you so much for this it has been hugely helpful and thank you for being upfront and honest about your mistakes, you are the man!
I'm so glad you took the time to do this video brother. You helped me out and I know you helped out the community as well. Liking and subscribing for sure.
Pro tip. Use a magnetic pick up tool to remove and put the bolt back in..
Dude. Thank you. I was able to find all of my sensors and know which ones *not* to pull thanks to this video. All I needed to remove was my turbo heat shield and I could get my hand right on it. Took about an hour.
2011 WRX hatchback OBP
How did u get to the bolt
@@SkyMuffinz Better question is how did you get the bolt out on the passenger’s side one? This makes no sense. The bolt is way too close to the sensor housing to fit a wrench- open or closed ended on it. A 10 mil socket is the only thing that can reach around the bolt but then the 10 mil socket and rachet is too tall…
@@Deleteguest 10mm shallow socket with a swivel built inwith a 10 inch extension bar through the gap straight from the top
@@SkyMuffinz I don't have any shallow sockets, unfortunately. I did end up purposely snapping my little 10 mm wrench in half, so I could actually have room to rotate it down there. Worked like a charm
@@Deleteguest good to hear
Do another one bro! Not many DIY Subaru engine vids out here.
Thanks for getting the sensors all wrong, i am about to change all three on my daughters WRX, so this helped heaps..
Got my bank 1 sensor done in 30 minutes! Good guide
Thanks brotha! replaced cat with high flow downpipe, new turbo, new plugs, new blowoff valve $4000 to SpeedyRoo in Aurora showed no positive results only made thing worse so now on to new coil packs and camshaft position sensor. I should be getting upwards of 13psi of boost but i'm only getting 6 at best. I'm encouraged by your video.
At least the PITA sensors have been swapped. Shouldn't have to worry about them for a while now. Excellent work man.
Thanks for your video! I will warn that I didn't watch all the way through and ended up following EXACTLY the same steps you did before fixing BANK A :( But thank you for helping me find the right places to look. A++ content brother.
TLDR;
WATCH THE VIDEO BEFORE YOU JUST DO lol
How did you get a wrench on the passenger side 10mm??
watching your video in 2023 was amazing, very instructive
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks to messing up now this is the best video for all 3 sensors haha. Need to do my bank 1 sensor on my 2011, video was a help. I'll be picking up a small hose clamp along with my sensor hah.
Bloody hell, wish i saw your video three weeks ago.... turns out thats what ive been trouble shooting! Great video man!!!!
Keep the vids coming! your videos have been a huge help since I have an 07 hawkeye w/ 120k.
Oh man. Been there done that. Purchased a Forester XT a couple years back. Ended up needing a camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. Had the valve cover gaskets replaced and had an 04 STI steering rack put in cause the oem 182k mi steering rack was leaking. Vehicle did come back with 130-135 psi across all cylinders with 10-12% leakdown according to my tuner. I’m closing in on 200k miles and only really consuming 100-150ml of oil every 1000 miles or so.
Thanks. This is exactly, how to make a how-to video. Great job.
Just found this. 2006 with a po302. Pita trying to resolve. Swapped plugs ,coils. Next is injectors. Did compression and leakdown. Engine good. Gonna do another smoke test
This video was amazing! Many Thanks! Daughter has an '04 FXT that was doing the same thing. Got the "how to..." from this video. All fixed, thanks!
Thank you very much for your very helpful video and my problem with my Subaru forester xt was solved .... thanks and greetings from Mexico City
You answered all my questions. Thank you! Great video
Dude you likely saved me hours of time. I’m about to jump into this tonight.
Thanks 06WRXDUDE. I have the same issues on my 2016 Suby. I will change 2 camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensor and oil change too
Where is the Crankshaft sensor located?
Hey at least you have all new sensors...
I had P0011 recently on my 2007 Hawkeye 2.5 STi. All I had to do was clean out the single AVCS solenoid on Bank 1 (drivers side in the UK) Was idling so bad. Great now, total cost....zero! Single AVCS on an STi Hawk is just the inlet sides, the later 2008 upwards 2.5 STi is twin AVCS, so exhaust sides aswell.
Thanks for the info! 🍻
Top job lad. I’ve gotta car doin the same bloody thing after blowing the radiator. I think the excessive heat has damaged the sensor. I would still replace the two camshaft at the same time. The other would probably not be to far behind. Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
Thank god for this video, I had a code for bank 2 cam sensor, replaced it and car runs fine now but Ofcourse bank 1 code is now there👍🏼😃
Glad it helped and I was able to get you on the right track 👍
Just came across your vid. My 2011 starting sputtering and running Like ass, stalling out at low rpm sputtering and popping under load, and sucked ass. Babied the piss outta it for 20miles unfortunately. No cel popped on, until tonight when I was checking for boost leaks and all epect hookups and turbo stuff. Haven't pulled code yet, but yours sounds exactly the same as what is happening here. Dunno what it did for ya when you were taking off or cruising but under boost it sounded horrible initially. Then I did my best to keep it out of boost and go slow and then it was just trying to keep her alive just far enough. Tomorrow I'll pull everything and see what side it is and get after it. Thanks for this
Subscribed. Thanks buddy and your right you can't find much on this problem on youtube. $25? I just paid $80 at AutoZone! Lol everybody make sure you have a short and small 10mm wrench before you attempt this. Of course unless you want to take a lot of stuff off the car.
Thanks for making a great video. Especially for including the mistakes that we (I) would make! Keep them coming.
I got P0011 the other day and it didn’t give me any issues but a CEL I have 200k miles. This is the only video I found as well. Next to figure out what’s keeping it from starting after sitting a while.
My dude!!! Thanks for the vid! I got the same issue!! Hopefully by subie is fixed by replacing the sensor. I cleared my code & next day it came back):
Ima go to my Autozone & buy a sensor! Hopefully by Saturday or Sunday my car should be good again! ( today is Thursday)
This video saved my life! I've PO365 CEL last week! took out the sensor on passenger side and give it a clean and put it back and now works and no more CEL. But it took me 3 hours to take out and put back the sensor! Thanks again!
Exhaust side?
OMG, thank you so much, lol. Here's another name for ya, "hall effect sender". Thought that was a camshaft sensor, which was what the scanner was telling me, but nope. Engine speed sensor is a camshaft position sensor....well that was 80 bucks, lol.
appreciate you bro. Been looking for this video for days now. thank you for being detailed in your video and actually showing and not just explaining. Much love!
Glad I could help
I'm gonna have to tackle my buddies subaru he has a very similar issue right now
I've done shit like that a million times. Happens to everyone. I had an old 02 outback with 3 hundo on it and I had a bag of spare sensors, hoses, fluids, etc. Cuz every 500 miles or so something would glitch out and I would be at the junk yard pulling stuff an old junker. Over time I had so many extra parts that I could usually just open the back hatch and find what I needed. Even had a CV axle back there.
@Angelo C Incorrect. "Bank 1"= Denoted by which side of the engine has cylinder 1. "Bank 2"= Denoted (obviously) by which side of the engine has Cylinder 2. In the case of Inline engines, only one bank, will never see a Bank 2 code. "Sensor A" denoted by which sensor, in Alphabetical order, in the case that there may be more than 1 sensor monitoring a system, also denotes the ONLY sensor monitoring respective system.
For example. V8 engine. 2 Banks. Lets say you get a code for O2 sensor Bank 1 Sensor A (Some manufacturers will continue with numerical value, ie. B1S1). So you'll be looking at the upstream sensor (pre catalytic convertor) on whichever side has cylinder 1. Some V8's have cylinder 1 on drivers side, some on the passenger side. If the code was for a Bank 2 Sensor B, you'd be looking at the bank 2 side downstream sensor (post catalytic convertor). So in recap:
Bank 1= Side that has Cylinder 1
Bank 2= Side that has cylinder 2
Sensor A= First sensor (or only sensor) monitoring respective system
Sensor B= Second sensor monitoring respective system
On these years of Subaru, Cam position was monitored on the intake cams only due to the Single AVCS system, there were no exhaust cam sensors until 2008 STI came out with Dual AVCS which added variable valve timing to the exhaust cams as well
Please keep up the videos! This was a huge help for my Outback XT!! Us Subie guys really appreciate this.
Hey i have an OBXT too! What year is yours?
@@tarzaan2603 2005, 5speed.
@@Iron_Kong nice dude, i got 2009 5 speed also, i kinda like your fenders better tho
@@tarzaan2603 I will say the fenders are nice, I just like the overall car and how it’s built. But unfortunately I don’t have it anymore. Engine failure 😞
@@Iron_Kong awww man that sucks
Yeah, but if one sensor fails, the other ones are sure to follow. You got out in front of it.
Good job
I just stumbled on these videos and you just got a sub. I have an 07 2.5i (😭) automatic (double 😭😭) and it's misfiring in cylinders 1-3 I enjoy watching your videos and I love my car alot but I think I'm gonna sit this one out and let the pros handle this one 😂😂
Did you end up fixing the problem? What was it?
Lmao I love the preemptive head and neck lock right before a pull
Awesome video mate, what’s the time stamp for sensor B
I'm having the exact same problem in my 2011 wrx. Literally same code and everything. Cylinders misfiring, code P0340. Hoping switching this will fix it!
Did it?
@@sanicsanic7018 yes and then it came back with another code so I had to replace the actual regulator near the camshaft, and now I have to replace the phaser. But replacing the sensor did fix that code then it came up with a new one
I have a 2017 WRX STI / EJ257. I had P000D C.E.L = B Camshaft postion slow response bank #2 (driver side top intake cam sensor).
I was not able to wiggle it out like this video shows(different engine bay maybe).
I removed the secondary air pump and Fuel rail guard(3 bolts, the bolt at the back is a doozy). I hacksawed part of the cam sensor and was able to get it out like the video shows. I filed the new sensor down and was able to put it in . Forcing the sensor in or out can damage it, mine had a scratch
I was in a hurry , the right way without having to file down the sensor would be to remove the tgv /intake manifold.
It definitely was a struggle for sure. I guess I got lucky for my model year. Glad you eventually figured it out 👍
Code came back, upon further research "B" might mean bottom sensor... lol . 😅
..So it was bottom sensor , Changed out the Camshaft sensor on bottom left (driver side) and the ocv also. No more P000D.
My cobb readings avcs exh left and exh right now match up, before the left avcs would overshoot or be too many degrees away.
@@BongRiperson I was having this exact issue(same MY and car) and you just saved me a lot of headache lol thank you
The lines attached to your intercooler that you pointed out were sludgy are not actually a part of your intercooler; they are a part of your PCV system. The intercooler is just a handy connection point. The rubber lines shown connected to your valve covers connect to these lines.
this is actually getting me to think about my ford ranger ... simular engine cut off issues, I replaced the cut off switch (inertia), the fuel pump, and a crank shaft sensor, but now i'm thinking its gotta be one of the other sensors.
Bro, outstanding, cracking and laughing trough out the video..
Thanks
(Help) I have codes P0335, P0340, and P0345. The main problem is... the car won't turn on at all. (75K M) 2016 Subaru WRX. (I had the battery fully charged. Still won't turn on).
Did u fix it？ I got the same codes
@jinbangliang3177 The car is currently not turning on, I did make progress yesterday. I switched my fuses inside the vehicle, and the car turned on completely; it even idled for 20 minutes (motor sounded good). Then I went to shut it off, and when I went to turn it back on, the car short circuited the fuses again, and it shut off completely. I wouldn't be surprised if the codes aren't "sensor" related and, in fact, are variable valve timing related. I have 2 of them that have corroded; their easy to access. Just gotta figure out what's currently short circuiting my car and eating through the fuses.
Car not turning on? Check your fuses #10 & #21 (7.5A) & Check to see if your battery requires a replacement. Sensor Codes? Change your oil first. Still sensor codes? Replace your Variable Valve Timings (their easy to spot and connect directly to your camshaft sensors). If the sensor code is still showing up, then I would suggest changing the sensors as a last resort. Trouble passing emissions, purchase a CATACLEAN Fuel Injector, and follow the instructions to clear your monitors. Look up Drive Cycles. You should be able to complete them within 40-50 miles (anyone telling you to drive for 200-400 miles doesn't know what their talking about).
Great videoman. Subis such PITA. I've try to sell it couple times but end up keeping it. Can't let go the Rumble
literally same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. 06 WRX driving to work and all of a sudden misfires and backfires. 126k miles. Thankyou for the video as I am sure I need to replace all these sensors.
This was super helpful. Greetings from the South Pacific.
I got a Subaru sti 2012 and this stink ass code came up, I’m tired of spending money at them mechanics I’m tryna do it my damself even though I’m clueless on how to 😂😂 thanks for the video!!
thanks for your help
this is what i been looking for
Glad I could help!
Had p0011 p0021 p2089 p2093 did 2 oil changes and flush, checked banjo bolts, replaced ocvs, cleaned and added 3 more grounds, changed throttle body wire harness that was damaged, still getting p2089 also did new spark and coil packs. Everything works but my OCV % and AVCS are weird. Seems like AVCS not kicking on and Bank 1 OCV has lower % than 2 then dies out. Currently in pieces in the driveway with the hood and Im watching videos with greasy hands trying to find answers...
Anyone else notice the Mitsubishi logo on the camshaft sensor?
My GT86 also has Mitsubishi logos on the sensors :)
@@VicenteVeiga hi
If you dig around your Subaru, you’ll find Mitsubishi and Nissan parts as well lol
Ah yes one of the worst nightmares the camshaft sensor in Subarus gotta love it🙄
There’s a NHTSA Subaru 97-14 TSB for cam sensor needing shim kit for repair.
On the crankshaft position sensor the first one you were placed which wire color goes close to the engine and which wire color goes closest to the radiator My wires pulled out
you earned a sub for this video! great job sharing your experience. going to change mine this weekend lol same issue in my 2011 wrx
Thanks for the sub!
What problem were you having and what was the solution I have a 2011 WRX and it's giving us some problems
Helped me from the quebec thx broo 💯💯
Help!!!! Everytime I press on my gas to go really quick all lights come on. Could it be my sensors than? Subaru automatic 2007 wagon 2.5xt
Can't wait 4 da next video
Great video and content Jake glad you fixed her up👍
This looks like it’s gonna be fun to do on my 04 wrx, this is the exact problem I’m having! But it could always be worse right boys?
I try it hard to fix my subaru wrx sti 2020 i got a p000b code and i wonder if u can give me some details where i can check 🙏🏻
Trial and error. I’m dealing with this exact issue right now. Lol.
Right at 8:52 there is a bolt RIGHT behind the dip stick. I'm missing that bolt. Can someone please help me identify what part I'm looking at and what bolt size I need. This would be incredibly helpful.
P.S. I'm also getting turbo lag and jolting. The turbo doesn't want to go past .5 in any gear. I'll get lag, a jolt of power, then a massive drop. I cleaned the MAF sensor, but no luck so far.
P0340 was only code I had. replaced bank 1 with oem senor. Still didn't wanna start. Did I need to undo the battery and hard reset? I don't have my cobb acessport unfortunately.. lost it.
Awesome video, I’m having a problem with my daughters car, 2005 Subaru Outback LL Bean 3.0 , no crank or start. I replaced the fuel pump, alternator and starter and now the battery and same issue and I came across your video and I had been thinking it’s a sensor or relay but I can’t use my CarMD until I get it started. I did get a relay tester and test out a few of those. Any thoughts on this?
youre the man!
Get yourself an AOS man.
Hats off man! Thanks for good share and experience
Great video thanks for the information
No problem 👍
Great work. Looking forward to more videos man👍
Just want to say thank you.
mine also cranking but no fire po340 = i brought a subaru genuine one $115.00 waiting for it to arrive = so i am next .
2016 sti just picked up 2 weeks ago, code P000D comes up, and and B apparently making banks 1 and 2 screwed. I still have faith in this car, I want to fix both sensors and give it another shot also taking to consideration that my oil pressure may be messed up, or foreign things and/or metal could be intruding in my pistons or wherever. Any tips?
I got a 2002 wrx and its throw p0340. Intake cam 1 (rh) position sensor circuit. So that is the one under the intake on driver side right? Anyone can help? Thanks in advance
I have an issue with my wrx 2012 which I recently rebuilt. How can I contact you and explain you what's being happening
HEY BUDDY I HOPE YOU SEE MY COMMENT........ I HAVE A 2002 H6 3.0 LL BEEN , ANY IDEA IF IT HAS TWO CRANKSHAFT SENSORS¿. , AND WHERE ARE LOCATED¿. AND IF I HAVE TO REMOVE THE AIR INTAKE ANY TIPS ¿ THANKS .....
2012 Subaru Impreza. I changed my crankshaft sensor and now need to change camshaft sensors Bank 1 and 2 🤦♂️ but also my connector for the crankshaft sensor is broken (locking tab and body of connector around the seals on the terminals)
Crankshaft sensor was $34. Camshaft sensors $133 each
Hi…how to remove the air pump for the access to get into the camshaft sensor thanks
Remove a couple bolts and hoses and you’re free
Thanks for the video man about to do in my 2016 wrx
Right on. Good luck! 👍
Woow that was really helpful a million thanks
Do you think changing that same sensor will work driver side code is p0021
bro I feel you so freaking much :D damn :D I fixed this problem in the same way, mine has AVCS with 4 camshaft sensors and 1 crankshaft sensor. I replaced each of them, but the one was needed, same as you, left top sensor :D I replaced fuel pump three times, MAF, O2 twice, spark plugs, all the ignition coils twice, wires , timing belt... shit I did so many things before I checked this fking sensor :D :D :D damn bro
Thanks for the detailed information. Have you done a oil catch can video. I have one and the forum's are all over the palace. Thanks
John Muñoz hopefully in the near future! 👍
I'm about to put my third sensor in lol
Patience is the secret
So I have the cam position sensor popping up on mine and says right side. Yuck not looking forward to this lol. Mine is a 2020 wrx im guessing it’s probably in the same spot maybe
Wrx has a different motor… mines the OG 2.5 ej255. Hoping the best for you anyway!
Crank sensor comes out without removing alternator no problem. Looks like the oil pressure sensor was leaking tho, so that should have been changed while the alternator was out.