After watching your video, it gave me a good idea what was wrong with my car, DTC P0303. I can clearly see that cylinder #3 intake valves have excessive carbon buildup. Without removing the intake manifold and injectors, I used Sea Foam Top Engine Cleaner for GDI engines, through the throttle body. It cleaned out my throttle body, intake manifold, and the intake valves. Problem solved. Afterwards I replaced the spark plugs and adjusted the valves. Car runs like new again. Thanks for the details in the video.
@@thenuthing8258 It was a big help for me. Going forward, I guess we need to do a better job on keeping our fuel systems serviced. Especially with these newer GDI engines. I used to be a Honda mechanic many years ago. We would perform a fuel system service about 30k. That includes cleaning the throttle body, injectors, and the intake manifold which cleans out the valves and the ports.
Very hard to find a video that shows these 2013+ fuel injectors. I guess it’s just too big of a job now for some of these TH-camrs, now that you have to pull the intake. Really appreciate you posting this so I can see what I would be getting into if I decide to do this for a friend of mine. He’s likely got the same thing going on. Already tried switching coils and plugs. I was just going to recommend replacing the number 4 injector because it used to take about 30 minutes to do and it was in the front. This is a whole ’nuther ball game.
My 2013 accord sport was doing the same thing but with cylinder 4 misfire. I changed the spark plugs and coil for cylinder 4 … I moved the coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 1 and it still marked cylinder 4 so I thought fuel injector! I prayed and hoped that stp fuel injector cleaner would work and so far it has . It sputtered again after I had gone through the gas tank with the additive and pumped arco regular gas so I filled up recently with chevron premium and my cars running like when I added the additive… mind you I have 204,000 miles so from now on I’m only pumping chevron premium since it always “cleans” and I’ll will still add the additives every oil change until I have the time to change the injectors and some days off at work in case I mess up and take longer 🙈
Alot more of these Accords are going to start having this problem as they get higher mileage. I'm convinced the best thing to do to delay or avoid this problem is to regularly use fuel additive injector cleaner and clean/have cleaned your valve stems and intake ports, and install a catch can. Good luck everyone
@@thenuthing8258 you’re absolutely correct. Have 220,000 on my Honda. Looks brand new. Did a lot of “upgrade/repairs” from TH-cam videos. First thing I did was do a catalytic cleaner through gas. And after that did a gasoline cleaner. (Excessive but made a huge difference).
@@ramonsolano9060 They charged you $2600 to fix?! What exactly did they say they did to fix it? Currently having this problem right now but I don’t have $2600 to spare🥲
The valves, I use crc intake and value cleaner. Spray it through the brake booster hole, it’s right next to the valves. Cleans them up real nice. Takes like an hour for a whole 12oz can. Can do it faster but it will throw a check engine light and the car runs poorly for like 60 miles. The guy on TH-cam showed me, I believe he’s the channel 9th gen accord. I also installed a catch can on my pcv system, instead of having to do this every other oil change (17k miles) I can go almost twice as long. Car runs real smooth in the wheel after the valve cleaner. Fyi my accord doesn’t have an issue, it’s my ford. Same issues as the video. Runs fine until it’s at an incline then the truck is being bitch. It’s localized to cyl2. Moving spark plugs and coils does nothing. No oil on plugs either so not the plugs struggling on burning oil. Plugs are deep on the truck I’m going to have to find another way to clean the injectors.
Any idea what im dealing with? Idle is fine but when i go up a grade or come to a stop, vibrations occur. Cleaned throttle body several times. Change oil regularly. Changed transmission fluid and filters. Sea foamed. Changed spark plugs. Nothing seems to get rid of the vibrations. Car is at 235k and counting
Hey I had the code 40420 show up a couple of days ago and than it the check engine was gone two later, the next day the p0304 code came on while driving and check engine light was flashing and car seemed like it didn't want to accelerate, cut the car off went to clock in came came back drove around the parking lot with no problem, what could it be
Your the only video on TH-cam doing this. A little bit of how too would have been gold! I was tryna figure out how to remove the fuel line on the manifold but looks like you took out the manifold without removing the line. How did you close the valves b4 cleaning? Got my car taken apart now 😊. Almost ready to unbolt the manifold, i didn't remove the valve cover, was tryna just clean the valve stems only
🤦🏽♂️ how did I miss that... wondering if I can confirm valves closed without pulling valve cover, 160$ for a gasket isn't in the budget today. Especially considering it doesn't leak a drop of oil " bone dry".. thanks for replying! This vid really helped a lot!!
@teenice894 you could use your phone with flashlight to put back there and record, then watch the video to verify, or possibly use a mirror and flashlight
I'm also having this problem! Can someone help or lead me In the right direction... Changed spark plugs and coils and I now have a p0303 code .. car is misfiring and in limp mode .. starts up fine and drives just won't go past 3k or 30 mph...
@@darriusmckeever735I'm having this issue too bro. I've been playing with the car and I noticed that to get it out of limp mode, you need to disconnect the battery terminal black or red doesn't matter for about 30 seconds and it will reset back to normal mode. Just don't hit the gas pedal hard when you drive the car Only feather the pedal and gradually climb to higher speeds . So, this reset is just to reset out of limp mode. It doesn't solve the problem. But it helps incase you need to get somewhere if its your only means of transportation. Im gonna try to either clean the injectors or possibly buy new ones and clean the valves and adjust. Hopefully it works out for me.
I have the same issue but misfire on cylinder number 2, already changed spark plug and ignition coil, 100 percent sure its the fuel injector #2, am going to replace it, do you think i should clean the other injectors and rail since they are already removed? In regards to cleaning the valves, should i just clean them using sea foam through throttle body like it was mentioned by one of the comments?
If your fuel trims are fine it would be more likely to be a bad plug or coil than a bad injector. If losing fuel was causing your misfire you would see it in the AFR’s
I have the same issue on cylinder 4 it misfires while it's cold and then it heats up and it's fine so I don't have a check engine light. I'm about to swap out the injectors hopefully it works
@@ismaelsalazar8129I have the same issue with 3rd cylinder. Does mini misfires at 2k rpm and a full misfire if I try to accelerate more. When the engine is hot it goes away. My fuel injectors are my last bet.. did that fix the issue for you?
Those are the codes that are running up on our honda accord 2008 it says misfires p0300 & po302 codes we fixed the camshaft sensor a & now the car acting funny & the check light engine is blinking.
I think it was Rock Auto. I sold the car pretty soon after the repair so I'm not sure how well they do over time, but I never had the issue again before selling the car so they seemed good. Good luck
Yes, all good now. Since I cleaned the intake valves and changed the injectors, I'm not 100% sure what the issue was. I put a catch can on and use a can of CRC cleaner and add a can of fuel additive every 10K to hopefully keep everything clean from now on
honda GDI engines, and especially this Earth Dream engine, prone to carbon buildup inside the chamber, including the injectors, spark plugs and oil rings. Take off the plastic PCV valve before every oil change and use spray clean it with cleaners like CRC throttle body cleaner. Replace it every 18000 miles. Shorten oil change interval to 5000 miles and use fuel additive before every oil change.
@@zkmoonea we have a 2014 Honda Accord & it’s 2.4L 4-cylinder is still running perfectly. But I must admit that I change the oil every 4700 miles & change the PCV valve nice every 18 months (why not it’s cheap). I did notice that the engine was acting up about a year & a half ago. It turned out to be that the spark ⚡️ plugs were “all used up.” I changed them & the engine has been happy every since.
@@thenuthing8258 question by any chance you think you can send me a pic of the catch can install I’m trying to install one my self but just don’t know where to put it?
Check the intake valves, since it’s a Direct Injected version of the K-series motor there might be carbon build up. I know Honda DI engines somehow avoid the carbon build up that other manufacturers face… but it’s a possibility.
Sorry brother but you didn’t tell or show anything of any importance on how to do any of it I’m working on one of these ass holes and it’s being a pain in the ass excuse my language if you don’t speak it sorry again.
@@Donato77777 Yes, I think so. No trouble for the past few months. I think the biggest thing was cleaning the intake valves and having clean injectors because
@@thenuthing8258 apparently my cylinder 4 injectors was quite dirty with carbon deposits And to get replacement it’s only available in USA no one have this injectors her in uk so only one potion to clean for the meantime and order new ones from us but I can’t find original Denso ones all is aftermarket not sure how good they are
After watching your video, it gave me a good idea what was wrong with my car, DTC P0303. I can clearly see that cylinder #3 intake valves have excessive carbon buildup. Without removing the intake manifold and injectors, I used Sea Foam Top Engine Cleaner for GDI engines, through the throttle body. It cleaned out my throttle body, intake manifold, and the intake valves. Problem solved. Afterwards I replaced the spark plugs and adjusted the valves. Car runs like new again. Thanks for the details in the video.
Glad it helped. I couldn't find any videos for these engines and I figured other guys might find it useful
@@thenuthing8258 It was a big help for me. Going forward, I guess we need to do a better job on keeping our fuel systems serviced. Especially with these newer GDI engines. I used to be a Honda mechanic many years ago. We would perform a fuel system service about 30k. That includes cleaning the throttle body, injectors, and the intake manifold which cleans out the valves and the ports.
@@matts2097 where can I get the valve specs and on a scale of 1-5 how hard was it to adjust them
Thank you for the video. My accord is doing the exact same thing. Did the new injectors fix your problem.
Thank you for the info Ian currently going through everything you mentioned in this video.
Very hard to find a video that shows these 2013+ fuel injectors. I guess it’s just too big of a job now for some of these TH-camrs, now that you have to pull the intake.
Really appreciate you posting this so I can see what I would be getting into if I decide to do this for a friend of mine. He’s likely got the same thing going on. Already tried switching coils and plugs. I was just going to recommend replacing the number 4 injector because it used to take about 30 minutes to do and it was in the front. This is a whole ’nuther ball game.
My 2013 accord sport was doing the same thing but with cylinder 4 misfire. I changed the spark plugs and coil for cylinder 4 … I moved the coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 1 and it still marked cylinder 4 so I thought fuel injector! I prayed and hoped that stp fuel injector cleaner would work and so far it has . It sputtered again after I had gone through the gas tank with the additive and pumped arco regular gas so I filled up recently with chevron premium and my cars running like when I added the additive… mind you I have 204,000 miles so from now on I’m only pumping chevron premium since it always “cleans” and I’ll will still add the additives every oil change until I have the time to change the injectors and some days off at work in case I mess up and take longer 🙈
I had a p0302/0303 on a 2017 Yukon and I replaced the injectors and that fixed the issue
Alot more of these Accords are going to start having this problem as they get higher mileage. I'm convinced the best thing to do to delay or avoid this problem is to regularly use fuel additive injector cleaner and clean/have cleaned your valve stems and intake ports, and install a catch can. Good luck everyone
I’m at 200k and this just happened to my accord went to Honda and charged me 2600 to fix it
@@ramonsolano9060 Fuck
@@thenuthing8258 you’re absolutely correct. Have 220,000 on my Honda. Looks brand new. Did a lot of “upgrade/repairs” from TH-cam videos.
First thing I did was do a catalytic cleaner through gas.
And after that did a gasoline cleaner. (Excessive but made a huge difference).
@@ramonsolano9060 They charged you $2600 to fix?! What exactly did they say they did to fix it? Currently having this problem right now but I don’t have $2600 to spare🥲
@@ramonsolano9060dammm
Do you have a video of how to remove the intake manifold to get tot the fuel rail?
The valves, I use crc intake and value cleaner. Spray it through the brake booster hole, it’s right next to the valves. Cleans them up real nice. Takes like an hour for a whole 12oz can. Can do it faster but it will throw a check engine light and the car runs poorly for like 60 miles. The guy on TH-cam showed me, I believe he’s the channel 9th gen accord. I also installed a catch can on my pcv system, instead of having to do this every other oil change (17k miles) I can go almost twice as long. Car runs real smooth in the wheel after the valve cleaner.
Fyi my accord doesn’t have an issue, it’s my ford. Same issues as the video. Runs fine until it’s at an incline then the truck is being bitch. It’s localized to cyl2. Moving spark plugs and coils does nothing. No oil on plugs either so not the plugs struggling on burning oil. Plugs are deep on the truck I’m going to have to find another way to clean the injectors.
Was it hard to remove the rail ? Did you use any special tool ?
Any idea what im dealing with? Idle is fine but when i go up a grade or come to a stop, vibrations occur. Cleaned throttle body several times. Change oil regularly. Changed transmission fluid and filters. Sea foamed. Changed spark plugs. Nothing seems to get rid of the vibrations. Car is at 235k and counting
Does the valve cover need to come off to change injectors?
Probably not, but it gives you more access and a better view, but I can't remember exactly. Sorry
Hey I had the code 40420 show up a couple of days ago and than it the check engine was gone two later, the next day the p0304 code came on while driving and check engine light was flashing and car seemed like it didn't want to accelerate, cut the car off went to clock in came came back drove around the parking lot with no problem, what could it be
I got same behavior today with same codes. Have u found a problem??
Your the only video on TH-cam doing this. A little bit of how too would have been gold! I was tryna figure out how to remove the fuel line on the manifold but looks like you took out the manifold without removing the line. How did you close the valves b4 cleaning? Got my car taken apart now 😊. Almost ready to unbolt the manifold, i didn't remove the valve cover, was tryna just clean the valve stems only
@@teenice894 6:40 in the video
🤦🏽♂️ how did I miss that... wondering if I can confirm valves closed without pulling valve cover, 160$ for a gasket isn't in the budget today. Especially considering it doesn't leak a drop of oil " bone dry".. thanks for replying! This vid really helped a lot!!
@teenice894 you could use your phone with flashlight to put back there and record, then watch the video to verify, or possibly use a mirror and flashlight
I'm also having this problem! Can someone help or lead me In the right direction... Changed spark plugs and coils and I now have a p0303 code .. car is misfiring and in limp mode .. starts up fine and drives just won't go past 3k or 30 mph...
Same problem what you do to get it fixed?
@@LidooReactsI’m having the same problem any solution?
@@darriusmckeever735I'm having this issue too bro. I've been playing with the car and I noticed that to get it out of limp mode, you need to disconnect the battery terminal black or red doesn't matter for about 30 seconds and it will reset back to normal mode. Just don't hit the gas pedal hard when you drive the car Only feather the pedal and gradually climb to higher speeds . So, this reset is just to reset out of limp mode. It doesn't solve the problem. But it helps incase you need to get somewhere if its your only means of transportation. Im gonna try to either clean the injectors or possibly buy new ones and clean the valves and adjust. Hopefully it works out for me.
How do you remove the intake manifold?
I have the same code p0303 and I changed sparks and coils and injectors but still misfiring and stuttering
You could try a valve adjustment.
Thank you
@@40caltone did it work ?
@@joshmatthews8454 was avoiding to take to Honda dealer but they said it was my injectors with the diagnosis they did
@@joshmatthews8454 don’t buy injectors from eBay
I have the same issue but misfire on cylinder number 2, already changed spark plug and ignition coil, 100 percent sure its the fuel injector #2, am going to replace it, do you think i should clean the other injectors and rail since they are already removed? In regards to cleaning the valves, should i just clean them using sea foam through throttle body like it was mentioned by one of the comments?
If your fuel trims are fine it would be more likely to be a bad plug or coil than a bad injector. If losing fuel was causing your misfire you would see it in the AFR’s
is it burning oil? do you know how to fix the burning oil problem.
Hi. How did you put them back on .mine won’t go in smooth any tips
Just give a little pressure and wiggle. They'll pop right in
Did it work? I have the same exact problem but misfire piston 4.
For the next 40K, at which time I traded it in for a new car, but it was still working normally.
I have the same issue on cylinder 4 it misfires while it's cold and then it heats up and it's fine so I don't have a check engine light. I'm about to swap out the injectors hopefully it works
@@ismaelsalazar8129I have the same issue with 3rd cylinder. Does mini misfires at 2k rpm and a full misfire if I try to accelerate more. When the engine is hot it goes away. My fuel injectors are my last bet.. did that fix the issue for you?
Those are the codes that are running up on our honda accord 2008 it says misfires p0300 & po302 codes we fixed the camshaft sensor a & now the car acting funny & the check light engine is blinking.
Where did you buy the fuel injectors?
I think it was Rock Auto. I sold the car pretty soon after the repair so I'm not sure how well they do over time, but I never had the issue again before selling the car so they seemed good. Good luck
My 2015 Honda accord is at 250k miles no check engine light only a recall for the ignition buts that’s about it
Hey just wondering did you ever fix the problem?
Yes, all good now. Since I cleaned the intake valves and changed the injectors, I'm not 100% sure what the issue was. I put a catch can on and use a can of CRC cleaner and add a can of fuel additive every 10K to hopefully keep everything clean from now on
honda GDI engines, and especially this Earth Dream engine, prone to carbon buildup inside the chamber, including the injectors, spark plugs and oil rings. Take off the plastic PCV valve before every oil change and use spray clean it with cleaners like CRC throttle body cleaner. Replace it every 18000 miles. Shorten oil change interval to 5000 miles and use fuel additive before every oil change.
@@zkmoonea we have a 2014 Honda Accord & it’s 2.4L 4-cylinder is still running perfectly. But I must admit that I change the oil every 4700 miles & change the PCV valve nice every 18 months (why not it’s cheap).
I did notice that the engine was acting up about a year & a half ago. It turned out to be that the spark ⚡️ plugs were “all used up.” I changed them & the engine has been happy every since.
@@thenuthing8258 question by any chance you think you can send me a pic of the catch can install I’m trying to install one my self but just don’t know where to put it?
@@thenuthing8258 one more thing I purchased brand new oem injectors for 50$ the seller claims they are new and look new
Check the intake valves, since it’s a Direct Injected version of the K-series motor there might be carbon build up.
I know Honda DI engines somehow avoid the carbon build up that other manufacturers face… but it’s a possibility.
Sorry brother but you didn’t tell or show anything of any importance on how to do any of it I’m working on one of these ass holes and it’s being a pain in the ass excuse my language if you don’t speak it sorry again.
You are correct that I didn't show a step-by-step of how to actually do any of it. What exactly do you need help with?
Have Japanese Honda with same engine and misfire on cylinder n4 have to to do everything that you just mentioned hope it’s spark plug 😂
Could be, but probably not
Yes change all 4 spark plug but nothing’s changed
Did you managed to sorted this problem ?
@@Donato77777 Yes, I think so. No trouble for the past few months. I think the biggest thing was cleaning the intake valves and having clean injectors because
@@thenuthing8258 apparently my cylinder 4 injectors was quite dirty with carbon deposits And to get replacement it’s only available in USA no one have this injectors her in uk so only one potion to clean for the meantime and order new ones from us but I can’t find original Denso ones all is aftermarket not sure how good they are
I have a 2016 accord 89k haven’t had an issue yet knock on wood
Good. Might be a good idea to install a catch can anyway and use a fuel injector cleaner every 10k, just to be safe
@@thenuthing8258 I did
I did also. These cars tbh are just junk@@fernandoescobar3056