I’ve learned a lot from your videos but I think a lot of guys take a different approach on throttle setup. The Walbro carbs on most gas engines are super sensitive at low throttle and not at all sensitive at high throttle. You can get much more linear throttle response by setting up the servo arm so it points almost directly towards the throttle arm at idle, and using the shortest servo arm possible that still gives full range of operating RPM
Great video and thank you for making it. I didn't notice that you mentioned the orientation of the throttle butterfly needing to be placed half open/closed only the servo arm. I thought both were important to be half open/closed before connecting the linkage. Was under the impression this was very important in order to get the proper geometry. Maybe I learned something new. Thanks again and look forward to seeing more videos in the future.
Thank you for the feedback, Hank. When I am talking about the movement of the push rod lining up with the servo opening I am setting it so the butterfly is half open when in the center of the servo opening. I should have been more clear on this and will be sure to cover it on another plane to try to add some clarification.
@@FlightReviewz Thanks guys, I really enjoy your videos and even after some 40 years in this hobby, I still find things to learn and apply in my flying. I guess your never to old to learn new or better ways of doing things. I look forward to seeing a video covering baffelling which I requested some time ago. I know there are many different ways of doing this but I am interested in seeing how you suggest it should be accomplished. Again, thanks for your time and efforts in making our hobby enjoyable.
Ed, the servo driver we are using is a JR Matchmaker. They are hard to find these days. However, Spektrum and JR still make similar devices. We may try to review a few of the available options in the future.
Hi Jason, good job, nice video! I noticed that you used the servo screws without these rubber grommets, that normally come with the servo, right? However you seem to use a verry smart, dumping enginge mount (is there something similar also for the DA50R?) these rubber grommets could reduce the risk to get your servo electronic damaged due to vibrations isn't it? So far i was only into electric powered planes and turbine jets, so vibrations haven't been an issue, but now, as i build (restore) a 33% pitts, powered with a gas engine (as said, a DA50), I fear these vibrations! A throttle servo, stuck in full throttle isn't something one wants 🙂 Or is the posive effect of these groomets overrated? Greetings from Germany 🙂 Holger
Holger, Thank you for the comment. The motor mount is a Blazing Star mount purchased from Northwest RC. There is no dampening on this mount. As for the grommets on the servos, The rubber grommets are there and the metal eyelets are installed from the bottom as they are intended. This causes the head of the screw and the bottom of the grommet to be isolated by the rubber in between. This causes the dampening effect you are referring to. I tighten them up and then back them off an eighth to a quarter of a turn. This helps lengthen the life of the servos. Hope this helps. If you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask. Jason
I also use hardwood pieces under the servo so the screws have plenty of wood to bite but why not use a threaded almn. arm looks like the standard arm threaded would not hold up
Thank you for the comment @send it. The engine is the source of all vibration in our airframes. For this reason, we prefer to use a nylon arm with a threaded hole. Jason's competition IMAC plane has over 1500 flights on it with this setup and he has had no issues.
Get yourself a good gyroscopic screwdriver (DEWALT DCF680N2) and long hex bits and you'll save so much time putting servo screws in and taking prop bolts off. Simple to use and I've never stripped anything with it. Lot easier on the hands too.
Thanks Don. I do have a really nice Ryobi Tech 4 screw driver that I use in conjunction with MPI bits when assembling planes at the field. I do prefer using a hand driver when building to avoid stripping fresh wood.
We had no trim issues with our Turbo Timber. As long as the AS3X is active you should have no issues. Make sure the surfaces are all centered when the trims are centered by adjusting the lengths of the push rods if you have any issues.
I’ve learned a lot from your videos but I think a lot of guys take a different approach on throttle setup. The Walbro carbs on most gas engines are super sensitive at low throttle and not at all sensitive at high throttle. You can get much more linear throttle response by setting up the servo arm so it points almost directly towards the throttle arm at idle, and using the shortest servo arm possible that still gives full range of operating RPM
Love the closeups of your hairy paws.
So glad you enjoyed them. This was market research for our new website, www.onlyhairypaws.com. LOL
Great video and thank you for making it. I didn't notice that you mentioned the orientation of the throttle butterfly needing to be placed half open/closed only the servo arm. I thought both were important to be half open/closed before connecting the linkage. Was under the impression this was very important in order to get the proper geometry. Maybe I learned something new. Thanks again and look forward to seeing more videos in the future.
Thank you for the feedback, Hank. When I am talking about the movement of the push rod lining up with the servo opening I am setting it so the butterfly is half open when in the center of the servo opening. I should have been more clear on this and will be sure to cover it on another plane to try to add some clarification.
@@FlightReviewz Thanks guys, I really enjoy your videos and even after some 40 years in this hobby, I still find things to learn and apply in my flying. I guess your never to old to learn new or better ways of doing things. I look forward to seeing a video covering baffelling which I requested some time ago. I know there are many different ways of doing this but I am interested in seeing how you suggest it should be accomplished. Again, thanks for your time and efforts in making our hobby enjoyable.
** Great Presentation.
How you considered converting the RC plane into an UAV?
making it autonomous flight with Pixhawk flight controller?
Not with this plane. We do know people that have done this with smaller foam planes. Definitely looks like fun.
Nice video..new sub here..thx..
What servo driver is that you use ..very useful 👌
Ed, the servo driver we are using is a JR Matchmaker. They are hard to find these days. However, Spektrum and JR still make similar devices. We may try to review a few of the available options in the future.
Thanks very interesting
Glad you enjoyed it.
Hi Jason what types of mip tools do you use
Hi Jason what mop tools are you using??? John
Hey John. The links for the MIP drivers are in the description under the "in this video" section.
@@FlightReviewz Hi Jason how are you and your family doing .Well I hope . How are things going with your planes .Take care off yourself john
That easy, that quick. It’s not that easy or quick, one of the hardest things to do.
Might be one of the hardest things to do with our modern ARF models, but definitely not in the top 10 hardest things we have experienced in the hobby.
Hi Jason, good job, nice video!
I noticed that you used the servo screws without these rubber grommets, that normally come with the servo, right?
However you seem to use a verry smart, dumping enginge mount (is there something similar also for the DA50R?) these rubber grommets could reduce the risk to get your servo electronic damaged due to vibrations isn't it?
So far i was only into electric powered planes and turbine jets, so vibrations haven't been an issue, but now, as i build (restore) a 33% pitts, powered with a gas engine (as said, a DA50), I fear these vibrations!
A throttle servo, stuck in full throttle isn't something one wants 🙂
Or is the posive effect of these groomets overrated?
Greetings from Germany 🙂
Holger
Holger,
Thank you for the comment. The motor mount is a Blazing Star mount purchased from Northwest RC. There is no dampening on this mount.
As for the grommets on the servos, The rubber grommets are there and the metal eyelets are installed from the bottom as they are intended. This causes the head of the screw and the bottom of the grommet to be isolated by the rubber in between. This causes the dampening effect you are referring to. I tighten them up and then back them off an eighth to a quarter of a turn. This helps lengthen the life of the servos.
Hope this helps. If you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask.
Jason
@@FlightReviewz Thanks for explanation! Didnt see the grommets - only black 🙂
Keep up our good work! Learned a lot!
Greetings from Germany :-)
@@Kraftei my pleasure. So glad you enjoy the channel! Don't hesitate to ask any questions you have along the way.
I also use hardwood pieces under the servo so the screws have plenty of wood to bite but why not use a threaded almn. arm looks like the standard arm threaded would not hold up
Thank you for the comment @send it. The engine is the source of all vibration in our airframes. For this reason, we prefer to use a nylon arm with a threaded hole. Jason's competition IMAC plane has over 1500 flights on it with this setup and he has had no issues.
Get yourself a good gyroscopic screwdriver (DEWALT DCF680N2) and long hex bits and you'll save so much time putting servo screws in and taking prop bolts off. Simple to use and I've never stripped anything with it. Lot easier on the hands too.
Thanks Don. I do have a really nice Ryobi Tech 4 screw driver that I use in conjunction with MPI bits when assembling planes at the field. I do prefer using a hand driver when building to avoid stripping fresh wood.
Hi Jason have finished your Yak .Hope all is well with you and your family
What reciver are you using in the Yak
How do I trim the turbo timber to fly straight when taking off?
We had no trim issues with our Turbo Timber. As long as the AS3X is active you should have no issues. Make sure the surfaces are all centered when the trims are centered by adjusting the lengths of the push rods if you have any issues.
Are you using your JR radio in this plane
Yes sir. I will be using the T14 on this plane.